Home injection molding part 1: Machine tear down and repairs
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2024
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It’s time for some home based injection molding. I’ve had this machine since 2014, but it has been sitting idle for a while now, due to an error on my part. In this video, I start the process by cleaning and repairing to get it almost back to working order.
Please note that this machine is sold to suit 110V mains voltage. In Australia we use 220V, and I’m pretty sure I removed one heater and converted the other. If you also use 220V, you would need to do the same or use a step down converter.
Hopefully the new o-rings work well, but in any case, I’m considering casting some high temp silicone washers so I can push the temperature as necessary.
In part 2, the plan is to machine and mold and create something.
0:00 Introduction
Precious plastics shredder video: • Recycling waste 3D pri...
3D printing vs injection molding: • Why 3D printing is ama...
1:01 My home injection molder: stores.jacobsbaits.com/inject...
Demo video: • Jacobs Baits - Bait Mo...
Plastisol wiki: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastisol
2:34 Modifications
3:04 Cleaning
3:28 Height adjustment mechanism repair
4:51 Tear down and Valve rod unseizing
9:53 Rewiring the heating element
11:20 Basic testing
PID controller manual: www.maxwell-fa.com/uploadfile...
12:01 Conclusion
Recycling logo image by Ilmari Karonen: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Re...
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Safety tip: Do not use a drill press with gloves because they can get caught in the machine!
In general, lose clothing and rags doesn’t go together with fast rotating “things”. Take off your tie when using a lathe 😂
@@iteerrex8166Colin Furze absolutely losing his mind rn
Yep great advice
It's a generally unexpected lesson for the workshop - gloves for some gear and none for other gear. Since gloves are safety equipment, people assume they should wear them.
For emphasis, this is screamingly frightening -- DON'T EVER DO THIS!!!!!! 6:30 Your fingers and nails will be dirty scraped and scarred, but you'll still have all of them.
You should deburr the ragged holes for the wiring. It will eventually cut through the insulation and energize the frame. A countersink bit, file, or sandpaper should do it
You should mould a benchy
The first thing you should try and mold, IMHO, is Technic Lego, but stuff you cannot buy, like an extra large gear, or extra long beam, or double fat beam, or an extra large wheel, or snap together extra large track links, or a windmill blade. Something compatible, but different.
A couple of belt pulley sizes could be another one, or an extra large panel, a set of fan blades, a bracket to hold 10mm round bar, A chain sprocket for bicycle chain (though a plastic one would be short lived...)
It looks like the rod is steel and the block is aluminum. The nice thing is the thermal expansion of aluminum is nearly twice that of steel, so both heating together still has some loosening effect.
Was drilling out the holes wise? I'd have asked Jakobs what size REAM to use for that precision fit.
With all the 3DP you do, getting the injection mold was a great idea.
Agreed. A proper reamer would be handy in the future too, for cleaning that bore out occasionally. I think I would as soon he turned out a new shaft and used standard size O rings. The groove depth could be modified to (somewhat) accommodate the bastard bore size created by the drilling (shudder).
Not sure if this will help in Australia but Harbor freight in the US has 'Viton' O ring assortment that are rated for 400c. Thanks for showing us this machine! I'm working on a novel DIY injection molder design and I hadn't considered a rack and pinion. It looks to be significantly easier to implement than the pneumatic versions everyone seems to prefer.
Great project
Looking forward to seeing your progress 👍😀
i'd surely not be mad if you did more (perhaps 3d printing related) restauration videos. Love those!
You should injection mold custom handles for the injection molding machine.
As mentioned below viton is the material to use for high temp. I got a bunch of these in a kit of various sizes from Supercheap auto here in Oz which you might be lucky to find a usable size. Bearing and engineering supply stores often care them or of course eBay.
This looks awesome!
Nicely done Michael. I too am less patient than I should be. The restoration looks rerally good. Waiting for the next installment. Cheers, JAYTEE
Simple garbage bags make good, cheap dust covers for neglected equipment to keep the dust off. If you can find a way to seal the bag and toss in a couple of large desiccant packets, even better.
I'm glad you asked the goats for permission because you know they are in charge.
Every time I try to assert myself they bleat until I submit.
Oh yes... mold a benchy. very cool to see more of the injection molding!
great work
I’m always open to seeing videos that aren’t 3-D printing. I think making things often requires a suite of tools and you can’t get everything done with a 3-D printer. Just like you can’t get everything done with a screwdriver.
This machine is over complicated and unsuitable for plastic injection molding due to the orings.
I would recommend anyone who wants to dip their toes in the world of injection molding to build the MKI machine by buster beagle 3D, it costs around $300 and can go up to 300C I believe.
Or you can go with the MKII or MKIII models if you can spend a bit more.
Thanks for informing me about this. Overcomplicated I disagree but the o-rings I do agree. The consistency and easy handling of the compressor to inject the plastic I think is a great feature. The seller told me from the start it's not designed to inject what I want, but that's ok and I'm up for any changes needed.
@@TeachingTech I think you could potentially design your own shaft that uses tight tolerances and some brass instead of orings
Thanks for the shout out! I haven't seen this particular machine before but it's really cool to see some other designs out there.
@@BusterBeagle3D You're welcome!
Any plans for MK4?
@@Arek_R. Working on some updates to the MK3 for ease sake but don't have an MK4 in the works just yet.
Nice fix! -- good call with the wiring upgrade. It's probably easier to disassemble the rack & pinion column and soak the ferrous parts in citric acid or Evaporust to save you a lot of mechanical work. a brown Scotch-Bright also works in lieu of steel wool. Also, get a bench grinder with a wire brush as the drill press is a poor substitute and as mentioned by another commenter, not safe to use with gloves. Now all you need is a CNC milling machine to carve out nice moulds 🙂
Cool! I would mold a calibration cube first to test the dimensional accuracy.
Man there you go Teaching Tech making an epic video. I'm 2 minutes in and can't wait to see the whole thing! Awesome!
Aw boo you didn't make anything. I can't wait for the next video. Just kidding. 😂. Maybe injection mold something for Halloween for children and donate it like you typically do with other projects, but instead of imploring your print farm, just mass produce using your scraps. Thanks for the cool video
Whenever I need to clean up something like this my process is to take it apart as much as possible and clean the parts separately. It's much easier to clean everything when you get right of the obstructions.
You can disassemble and clean the rack rail assembly by undoing the small grub screws at the top and bottom.
My go to for good "o" rings are from automotive A/C, not sure of the max temp. They also come in SAE and Metric sizes, 2 places come to mind, Cooldrive in Brisbane and Jayair.
You could’ve dipped all that stuff in evap o rust for an hour and it would’ve been done soooooo much faster. That stuff is amazing
perfect timing, I need to setup a IM fab.
Might be fun to see an injection moulded 3d benchy 😂
i can appreciate the "i dont have the patience for this shit so now its good enough" mentality
Thanks for the video.
I'll be interested to see what you make with this in the future.
Also, I'd like to know how the auto-tune worked on the PID controller. With such a large thermal mass, I'm guessing a the Derivative may need to be set higher... depending on the auto-tune software.
The corrosion can be explaned. Steel + aluminum = galvanic corrosion.
Freeing the release rod should have started with a trademark good luck karate chop, would have made the process much simpler!
that's so awesome. I would make quad copter propellers if I could. I'm always breaking them.
Its nice to see you doing some non-3D printing videos. I do enjoy them, but I know you have skills with other maker technologies, and getting to hear your take on them will be interesting.
I think it would be good to make a part that would be hard or impossible to do with a 3D printer, along with all the considerations you need to put in when designing for injection moulding which I understand is far more complicated than with 3D printing.
It is complicated in a different way. Getting your desired results from either requires finesse. In combination they are supurb! With metal 3d printing you can readily include any necessary cooling conduits (should your mold require them). Doing mutiple iterations of mold designs is easier when printing them. Among the things you need to consider are shrinkage (overall and differential) and potential void formations. 3D printing can help in both these areas because you can (at least in theory) fine tune the innermost chamber by the inclusion of more of fewer cooling channels in nearly every adjacent wall the the molding chamber.
make sure to dehumidify the airsupply ? and keep it oiled ,a manual steelbrush is less aggressive more flexible. Thx for sharing ,especially the tiny mold injector is pretty cool.
Viton is good to 205c it would get you to PLA territory. I’m guessing in this application you could push them much further.
I know you upside down people are going through winter at the moment but how cold it is down there because you are wearing pretty thick jacket indoors :D Our summer has been the greatest in a long time. In Finland we have had the best work summer in ages. 10C mornings and 20C afternoons. Mornings are great but when the sun creeps higher it gets worse. Pirate shorts and t-shirts... ahh I love this summer. Last few years have been a living hell. 20C+... Vain sorsa lentää pohjoiseen (only duck flies north) said a great song writer back in the day and he was right.
Its winter here in Perth and we have the same temperatures. In summer its usually mid to late 30s.
I don't know what shape you want to mold but I would like to know if it would mold nylon... If you could take the high strength nylon remnants from 3D printing and use that to make solid nylon parts it would be really cool... A lot of mechanical parts are made out of injection mold in nylon. Like gears and such.
Maybe you'll take the time to make a video about setting up that PID and how to solve the temp overshoot. Never figured it out.
Cool!!!
I see that you intend to do some PLA injection molding, I wonder if you'll also try other materials, like HIPS plastic. HIPS injection molding might be interesting for certain types of modellers...
The trouble is it mean collecting and grinding each type of filament I'd like to mold. This means multiple sets of equipment or very laborious cleaning to avoid cross contamination.
Ah, the old "hot wrench" technique. :)
Can you try to make an FFF printed injection mold out of PA6-CF? Maybe add cooling channels and use mold release. Really curious about the results
Part 2 please!
Very cool. Depending on what you’d use the equipment for, that doesn’t seem like a terrible price for an injection mold. Now the question….do I need another hobby 😂
Can you print a 2 part mold of the o-ring and put high temp silicon in it ? Like when you make a custom hotend sock
That is the current plan.
Viton and other fluoropolymer O-rings should be able to withstand high temperatures but consult the manufacturer guidelines beforehand. Also this may not be that important but replacing the O-rings with ones of a similar durometer might help prevent O-ring extrusion or stiffness.
Looking forward to more on your injection mounding voyage. Looks loie you've got the easiest part out of the way. Just wondering how/where you are going to get your mold tooling done. As I remember, that is the most costly/difficult part. Best of luck.
He showed a clip towards the end of his CNC machine while he talked about making molds. So I am assuming that is the plan. He could also buy very high temp resin for a resin 3D printer and make molds that way. Another way would be to 3D model what he wants, and make a high temp resin mold using 2 part resin. Metal will be the best choice for a few reasons, so if he is comfortable doing on his CNC, that will be the best way to go. Check out Buster Beagle 3D here on YT for a lot of info on that sort of thing. He also shows you how to make your own injection mold machine for a tiny fraction of the cost of a new factory made one.
Whatever I will do is low volume so aluminium will be plenty. I'm also interested in exploring high temp resin printed molds but if the machining works, I'll probably stick with that.
@TeachingTech got it low volume, so there is no need for ejection pins. That will make things easier. How about moveable inserts? In any case this will be an interesting voyage.
PS: A youtuber named Integza has done some high temp 3D printing, but I seem to remember he had trouble when annealing the parts.
Best of luck!
@LincolnWorld agree. I think CNC would yield the best tools. And thanks for the pointer to Buster B, I'll check it out.
Silicone or viton o-rings might not work as they are rated for hi temp for short time. Although, the viton might be okay for now. The standard is a turn key valve. The part where the valve turns is a half-circle or a hole (like a ball valve), with a larger shaft diameter... only in this area to prevent seizing.
If the o-rings don't work out you can probably make a valve out of brass to replace your old shaft.
Other options: PTFE or PEEK rings.
Was about to ask if there's a way to use 3D printing or make a DIY injection molding machine this video answers everything I asked
It does? None of it is 3d printed.
@@Festivejelly I know I said if there's a way to 3D print or make it myself hence the DIY part
Check out buster beagle 3d, he's done some injection molding machines.
Bath rust remover liquid would probably have done an awesome job effortlessly and accurately; like Metal Rescue! Did you try it?
Didn't know it existed but plenty of helpful comments like this one if a similar situation occurs in the future.
wow, how detailed can the molds be?
Ever since i saw that great video on Injection Molding, and the work of the group “Precious Plastic” i wanted one!
My main question is what is the “killer product” (thing having a mold for would be useful, and not easily 3d printed / gimmick or fast food toy like)
Lego or Roknbok pieces would be *amazing*, but then you have *mold design and maintenance*.
What all do you think?
I agree. Personally, I'm just doing it because I can and I don't have a specific end product in mind. Something like a cable chain link would lend itself very well to this. Pump out a bunch fairly quickly and add to the chain as needed.
@@TeachingTech Cable chains, yeah!
I know @rctestflight or whoever made that snowcat and got an injection mold design from a company that does the designs for you etc
It must have gotten buried in the comments somewhere, but if that mold design could be published that would have been LEGENDARY
Cable chain makes a lot of sense too though, get that set up at a Makerspace, whole county has them all locally made from recycled stuff!
(Also i agree Injection Molding is just cool on it’s own)
Casting silicone o-rings will be something I'm interested in. TPU even at its most flexible is no where near silicone.l
So are you going to make some pla filament? I would love to see that
I've had a filament extruder sitting doing nothing for a year since I moved house. I'm hoping to get back to that soon.
Wouldn’t it be great if there was a cheap ender like version of an injection molding machine that works right out of the box with failed PLA 3D prints? That would be genius! Or even just an attachment that recycles you’re waste PLA without costing a fortune or having all the expensive spooling gear. That’ll be the day!
Next time put the rod in the drill press and use still wool or sand paper instead of using the small hand held belt sander = no flat spots on the rod, more even control and faster rotation 😉
When building the injection system, you should take care not to use dissimilar metals in contact with each other (especially aluminum and steel). Contact corrosion will occur (especially in the heated area) which can seize moving parts.
you could try and 3d print the injection molds out of some high-temperature plastics like CF-PPS or CF-HTN.
Are those filaments flexible? I need some stretch to get them over the wider parts of the rod. I have some PEEK but that is too rigid.
I guess not then. In that case, if you need them to be flexible something like Essentium’s new high-temperature flexible material duratem could work. It’s a mix of Ultem for temperature resistance and siloxane for flexibility.
I wish there were affordable, prebuilt machines available. There’s a plethora of 3d printers now, at every price point. Injection mold machines are still pretty expensive and hard to set up.
machining molds isnt affordable either
I'm an inventer was about to mass market a 10cc version for $99. Problem is the tax law and I'm not being paid enough. I live in high cost area. We have to fix the law and reduce rent. Something great is lost.
@@knoopx 3D print mold is cheap for some parts. Or 3d print your part then create mold from EpoxAcast™ 655
@@AverySunshines hah. That would be an amazing price point. Can I buy one from you? 😂
@@nunosousa7698 Sorry, I don't sell them unless I produce 500 to 1k units. I'm worried I won't come back to this project because I have to many inventions I need to back.
Wow, your goats are rather clever. 🐐
not quite cos he ruined the valve
What is the psi of your compressor
Now that Danny Ric is back on the F1 grid, are you getting an Alpha Tauri shirt? Great video, I didn’t know that there was a home device for molding, I know that you said that you were going to use PLA, but are planning to do ABS or other materials?
Got me a Alpha Tauri shirt and jacket. ABS most likely not because I don't want to collect and grind them. Alternative is virgin pellets.
Viton, an FKM material, should be able to meet or exceed your requirement of 204°C.
Good call. That's what the stock o rings are made from and the ones I've ordered. I'm happy with the temperature rating, but more concerned over the fit. That's why the silicone cast washers are the back up.
Where did you get the grinder to recycle the old plastic?
The video is liked in the description.
can you make a video on how to set up Simply Print?
How about making an emblem for the steering wheel of your racing car?
Where was that contraption left to rust up like that, a shipyard?
It would be cool if you resin 3d printed a set of molds.
Can you 3d print molds ? I wanna see injection moulded benchys.
I've been saying this for years, the market is missing and in need of an "ender 3 budget styled" injection molding machine. Man, these 3000 dollar machines that are made with jist a few components costing so much! It would be great if someone like creality or even Naomi wu would head up the creation of mass market, hobbyist injection molding machines for just a few hundred dollars!
I was about to mass market a 10cc version for $99. Problem is the tax law and high cost of living. So, I don't sell them.
@@AverySunshines it's not possible for you to do it because you are us based. As we know, the government / tax oppression is not conducive to help develop small businesses. It must be made in China where they are encouraged to create, unlike here. That's why the Chinese resin 3d printers are a few hundred dollars, but us based form labs are 6 thousand dollars!
I like, see you soon.
done
I would love to have a machine like this. I work with injection molding. So pellets and color would be free for me.
Good for businesses that recycle plastics to products. Eg. Precious Plastic Bazaar etc
I am confused as how to you have the patience for printing but not anything else that takes a lot of time?
The difference is 3d printing is precise and progressive. Even prints that take a long time visually advance as you watch. The same with pouring time into a complex cad model. There is a tangible result in each case. When it comes to things like sanding, you can do it for some time and the part looks very similar. There's not always an indication that I'm any closer to the result I want despite the effort.
I wish I had room for goats
The thing is, they take over all areas that belong to you. So if you have enough room for you, they will think there is enough room for them too.
@@TeachingTech I grew up around goats, that is why I know better. My city lot would never be enough. I would also like to get a siberian husky, but unless I win the lottery I guess I am stuck with a lazy cat LOL
@@TeachingTech sell the goats
Rust may be bearable, but ruining the valve with drill just pissed me off. Also i can not understand why is this valve actuated by pushing rather than rotation like good old chemical glassware valve.
Soak in Vinegar, it will remove the rust
What about a filament extruder DIY contraption on a budget? Oxymoron? Maybe ... but I can always ask? :D
What if this was the nozzle for a huge 3d printer
Benchy! Benchy! Benchy!
Best option would have been a disassembly and citric acid.
o-rings from car injector could also work well, but how to find exact diameter :)
Be careful heating an aluminum pressure vessel. Aluminum looses strength at surprisingly low temps. You're probably ok at 200c but I wouldn't go too much higher. Aluminum is heat treated around 300c.
Something from Nylon.
Interestingly, heating a rod will make it expand length wise, but not in diameter, so no fear in heating it.
Not sure this is correct as when you heat a seized bolt the threads expand, squash the rust and then when it's cooled it frees up a bit.
That's not correct. The coefficient of expansion is equal in all axis... but in a rod, it will expand more due to the fact that the rod is longer than the diameter, but both the length and diameter expand at that same ratio. For example, a 1 meter rod with a 10mm diameter might expand to 1 meter and 1 mm when heated to 100C, but its diameter will only expand to 10.01mm in diameter. The ratio of the two is identical, however, the actual length is different by a factor of 100.
@@williamsteele Ha, ok ;)
Evaporust is your friend.
As someone who used to work in injection molding this rig looks so ridiculous toy to me. The main problem is that it doesn't use hydraulics and instead uses gears that are sure to wear out quickly compared to the alternative..
Compared to an industrial injection molder, of course it is a toy. The only gears present are the rack and pinion to change the height. The rest is compressed air powered.
I think you meant molded _silicone_ o-rings not _silicon_ o-rings, right? Interesting stuff... I'll stay tuned to see what you end up making, and how you make the molds.
Was this left out in a snowbank for a decade? lol.
Noice
Twin?
Man, are you living on a boat in the dead sea? This corrosion is really intense for just leaving it in the Garage, I must say. Either the Machine uses cheap steel (The rods seem chrome plated though) or you really live close to the sea in a humid and salty environment... ;-)
Mold a Benchy LOL
+1 for the Benchy ! ;)
Or Maybe some strength comparisons between 3d printed parts and molded ones.
As a side note : it wont make the machin works a lot better but I would suggest to put every rusted parts in a household white vinegar bath for 24h, this will give it a appealing and brand new looking, I often use this and it make miracle on rust at low cost
Please do not use gloves with rotating machines
4th! 🎉
Did anyone else cringe a little bit when he was using the drill with gloves?
I mean... I've seen some things go wrong over the years😅
This was a great "How To Never Treat A Machine" video!
Corrected Method: Never let your tools get exposed to moisture. Failing that, with light rust like that, JUST TAKE IT APART! Use a solvent to get all lubricants off of them. Put them in a plastic container and cover them with EVAP-O-RUST! NEVER USE STEEL WOOL IN MACHINE PARTS UNLESS THEY ARE DISASSEMBLED SO YOU CAN CLEAN ALL OF IT OFF!!! Do you really think engineers designed all those moving parts for you to throw steel shavings into them? I'm crying! This was like waking up in Dumbocracy!
There is one important take away about this topic. PRINTING IS FOR PROTOTYPES ONLY!!! CLEAN THEM UP! MAKE MOLDS WITH PROPER DRAFT ANGLES, AND MOLD YOUR PRODUCT SO IT IS STRUCTURALLY SOUND! Thermal deposition prints are STRUCTURALLY GARBAGE and TAKE FOREVER! THE WORLD WILL NEVER PRINT IN MASS!
GET SMART!!! THINK LIKE A BUSINESS AND MAKE MONEY!!! DUH!
I think it is time for you to meet psycho the rapist. Also you forgot to mention the sin of ruining the valve.
@@wormball - I didn't follow your opening line, unless you meant that he really raped that machine. That was certainly my impression! I wasn't sure who was supposed to meat who...
Man, you should not ever show other people how you don't respect equipment that you have.
Honesty has always been at the heart of the channel.
@@TeachingTech honestly, my comment wasn't about honesty. You shouldn't treat tools like that. Don't store it in humid environment and below freezing temperature. And for things that can rust use oil/grease and oiled paper to prevent rust during storage.
Why would I injection mold in plastic at home ? I can 3D print instead. I would be interested in injection molding in ZAMAC instead.