Thank you! Yes, it is definitely a different combo. But that is actually what I set out to do with the carbed engine to begin with. So, ultimately hit the nail on the head with this one 🤣 that was a lot of content stuffed into a video for sure. It is hard to make wiring interesting, to say the least lol
Nice install and combo!! I wanted to do a carb just so I dont have to pay these ridiculous tuning prices!!🤣Curious you gotta be making close to 400hp on a carb??
@@winey99cobra that would be a close guesstimate... tuned down at the ecu from factory at around 275-300 horses and capable of around 375 with a good tune. Opening up the exhaust and intake on top of the tune ability of a carb without factory restrictions... Haven't had it in a dyno but feels like it is making a good amount of power.
They make a marine self soldering heat shrink connector with weather solvent to prevent any leaks. When you heat it shrink it, it melts the solder at the same time, connecting the wires.
Oh, that’s nice, I would love to have this gauge cluster if it was plug and play so I can switch back and forth as I pleases me on my 04 mustang GT automatic dark shadow gray
I usually like modding in pairs safe to say this will be a new steering wheel and dash mod ofc I’ll remove the steering wheel first and install it after
It really depends on your year make and model. 94-95 is different than 96-98 and 96-98 is different from 99-04. 99-04 cars had the gauges integrated into the PATS system and PATS has to be disabled to switch out the cluster.
So would the pats system haft to be disabled to do this swap or would you be abke to keep the circuitry from the old gauges responsible for the pats sytem and still install these gauages
So, 94-98 you can just swap the cluster and run it. 99-04, I imagine you could leave the circuit board and leave it all hooked up and tap into the wires needed for the new gauge setup. Never done that, but have had this discussion in the past. As long as you could make it all fit and you can insulate the 2 boards from making contact with anything or eachother that would cause a short circuit, you'd be golden.
@@fullhouse7727 They do not. If the person that installed the gauges did not program the original mileage into the cluster, there is no telling what the mileage is. There may be a way to read the ECU with a programmer to get the actual mileage.
@@MustangFourSix yes, for some reason some of the kits have a single wire lead from the oil sender and some have 2. If you have the single lead, your ground will occur through the units contact to the block and the other will be your signal wire to the gauge. Wk is ground and G is signal.
On the gauges the white wire is the speedo and green is the tach. As for the car side, I'm not 100% on that as I ran my own speedo wire and my tach wire came from my MSD box.
What year is your car? 94-98 is a wide range. But there are dip switches on the circuit board that have to be set to the proper ohms to your vehicle. You need to know the ohm ranges of the sending unit for your specific year. In the instructions there is a chart that shows you what sequence your switches need to be set to. Hope this helps!
Gotcha... well, the sending wire is yellow with a white Stripe until 2007. I believe you have the right wire. Look into the dip switches, like I said. This should be your issue.
Yeah, by installing these gauges, you create an open circuit on the alternator exciter circuit. I had to install a dummy light and a resistor. It is in my update video.
@@jamest3188 this doesn't sound like your issue, but rather, your alternator is probably on its way out. Most likely the voltage regulator. Basically while running, the voltage should stay pretty steady, above 12v.
I have owned A LOT of Mustangs over the years, including 3-4 new edge’s……and this has got to be one of the most hideous interior mods I have seen to date. That cluster is so NON Mustang, doesn’t belong and I would never install one. 🤮
Really well done video! Its so cool seeing the dichotomy of a carbed engine with a digital gauge display! Good work!
Thank you! Yes, it is definitely a different combo. But that is actually what I set out to do with the carbed engine to begin with. So, ultimately hit the nail on the head with this one 🤣 that was a lot of content stuffed into a video for sure. It is hard to make wiring interesting, to say the least lol
Nice install and combo!! I wanted to do a carb just so I dont have to pay these ridiculous tuning prices!!🤣Curious you gotta be making close to 400hp on a carb??
@@winey99cobra that would be a close guesstimate... tuned down at the ecu from factory at around 275-300 horses and capable of around 375 with a good tune. Opening up the exhaust and intake on top of the tune ability of a carb without factory restrictions... Haven't had it in a dyno but feels like it is making a good amount of power.
They make a marine self soldering heat shrink connector with weather solvent to prevent any leaks. When you heat it shrink it, it melts the solder at the same time, connecting the wires.
Yeah, I have actually been thinking about trying that out. Would definitely be less frustrating.
I've been looking for this type of video for a long time. I've been considering the swap cluster on you just confirmed for me
This is just the video I was looking for! Thanks
No problem!
A deutsch connector kit would be much kinder to any future service work than directly coupling the new and old harness.
Yes, I agree. Or even some spade connectors. I was working with what I had at the time, but was planning to redo it eventually.
Oh, that’s nice, I would love to have this gauge cluster if it was plug and play so I can switch back and forth as I pleases me on my 04 mustang GT automatic dark shadow gray
One of my favorite colors on the New Edge cars
I usually like modding in pairs safe to say this will be a new steering wheel and dash mod ofc I’ll remove the steering wheel first and install it after
Just be sure to watch the extended video about the resistor circuit. I too will be doing a steering wheel swap.
Can you state which wire goes where for the dummies like me? I’m struggling
It really depends on your year make and model. 94-95 is different than 96-98 and 96-98 is different from 99-04. 99-04 cars had the gauges integrated into the PATS system and PATS has to be disabled to switch out the cluster.
So would the pats system haft to be disabled to do this swap or would you be abke to keep the circuitry from the old gauges responsible for the pats sytem and still install these gauages
So, 94-98 you can just swap the cluster and run it. 99-04, I imagine you could leave the circuit board and leave it all hooked up and tap into the wires needed for the new gauge setup. Never done that, but have had this discussion in the past. As long as you could make it all fit and you can insulate the 2 boards from making contact with anything or eachother that would cause a short circuit, you'd be golden.
@NoLogoGarage thanks man I'll haft to look at any other videos you posted about it
What year mustang was this? Cuz any pats mustang the cluster is programmed as part of the pats system,
Nvm
04 but I deleted the factory ecu. 99-04 the cluster is part of the PATS system but can be disabled.
Bought a mustang with this already installed. Do these read the factory miles? If so how can you see them? Thank you
@@fullhouse7727 They do not. If the person that installed the gauges did not program the original mileage into the cluster, there is no telling what the mileage is. There may be a way to read the ECU with a programmer to get the actual mileage.
@@NoLogoGarage thank you!
@@NoLogoGarageis there any plug and play harness for this gauge cluster now or do you still have to wire everything?
@@jimjam9924 Not that I am aware of.
Did you have any problems with battery not charging ?
Yes, the fix is in my update video. I had to put a dummy light and resistor inline where it was removed when I swapped out the stock gauges.
My oil sensor only has one connector for ground any idea why other side says wk its plugged w a plastic
@@MustangFourSix wk is a ground switch post.
@@NoLogoGarage so I only connect ground and leave wk alone its covered in a plastic so I can't use it anyway
@@MustangFourSix yes, for some reason some of the kits have a single wire lead from the oil sender and some have 2. If you have the single lead, your ground will occur through the units contact to the block and the other will be your signal wire to the gauge. Wk is ground and G is signal.
@@NoLogoGarage gotcha so connect to G signal wire and the ground is the connection threads to the oil filter adapter
@@MustangFourSix correct
What color is the speedometer and tachometer wire?
On the gauges the white wire is the speedo and green is the tach. As for the car side, I'm not 100% on that as I ran my own speedo wire and my tach wire came from my MSD box.
My fuel gauge does not work... I have a 94-98 but i dont get it. Its the same yellow/white wire that should connect to the yellow on the cluster.
What year is your car? 94-98 is a wide range. But there are dip switches on the circuit board that have to be set to the proper ohms to your vehicle. You need to know the ohm ranges of the sending unit for your specific year. In the instructions there is a chart that shows you what sequence your switches need to be set to. Hope this helps!
@@NoLogoGarage lol so the car was a 96 v6, I did a 95 gt swap but now it’s going coyote swap. So 96 v6 chassis/body harness and coyote motor now
Gotcha... well, the sending wire is yellow with a white Stripe until 2007. I believe you have the right wire. Look into the dip switches, like I said. This should be your issue.
@@NoLogoGarage yup I didn’t even see those dip switch things. Works now haha. Thanks!!
Not a problem!
With this install did you lose any of your instrument cluster functions
No, has everything that the oem cluster has and then some. Trip, miles, 0-60 times, top speed etc
Where did you wire check engine light instructions don't show
What website did u but the cluster from
I bought mine from that Amazonian website lol but you can buy them directly from Intellitronix.
He has a way of teaching me the instructions, that's why I lost them.
@@erickichimura7142 I believe I still have them laying around, if you need them 🤣
@@NoLogoGarage Thank you brother, you would save my life. I have searched the Internet for information and nothing.
@@erickichimura7142 drop me an email at nologogarage@gmail.com and I will get them to you as soon as I can locate them.
@@NoLogoGarage Brother, I already sent you the email, I don't know how to thank you.
@@erickichimura7142 not a problem. At work now but I will try and locate it in the a.m.
Good mustang power
Mines not turning in
Message me at NOLOGOGARAGE@GMAIL.COM
Make sure you have a good ground. Run the ground separate to a good chassis location.
Permission to message? Ok just got mine will need advice for sure @@NoLogoGarage
Volt gauge should read 14 volts not 11 when your driving
Yeah, by installing these gauges, you create an open circuit on the alternator exciter circuit. I had to install a dummy light and a resistor. It is in my update video.
@@NoLogoGarage wait explain this for me, because some times my car falls from 14 to 11volts when idling at stop lights.
@@jamest3188 this doesn't sound like your issue, but rather, your alternator is probably on its way out. Most likely the voltage regulator. Basically while running, the voltage should stay pretty steady, above 12v.
I have owned A LOT of Mustangs over the years, including 3-4 new edge’s……and this has got to be one of the most hideous interior mods I have seen to date. That cluster is so NON Mustang, doesn’t belong and I would never install one. 🤮
@@angielover100 to each their own. I didn't have many options with my setup and that was the most affordable.