Your video is excellent. For what it's worth, I use the Mann W940/25 filter. It increases oil capacity to 5L from 4.2L I also do add oil to the filter before installation. I have used Mobil1 0-40 "European grade" (502 00 approved by VW) successfully for the last year, with no sludging problems encountered.
Thank you! Your videos are always thorough and well explained -- and the HD video quality is SO helpful. Many car tutorial videos on TH-cam are filmed with potatoes, making it very difficult to understand what's going on. You have a great camera operator (and great "helpers") :)
good instruction video i liked it! But you forgot two minor things. 1 - change the copper washer on the oil drain plug. Copper is a soft metal that you flatten during tightening.when you use it the secont time it will be thinner then when it was new. it can cause leaking.. 2 - put some oil on the filters rubber sealing. if you don't do it the rubber dries out after a while and cracks will arise. this can cause leaking aswell. what i personally do after an oil change is cleaning the engine around it with brake cleaner. so it does not attract dirt and it does not seem like there is a leak. Keep it up! ☻
+24/7 Videos Thank you! recently I started to replace drain plug bolt and washer with every oil change. Regarding seals - I normally lubricate them, but mainly I had to deal with diesel engines and on this petrol one differs a bit, so skipped it, thanks for pointing on that.
Normally oil is sold in 5 litre bottles, that should be enough. Put 4 first, let the engine run, whether you filled oil filter or not, let the oil get everywhere it needs to get, stop the engine, check the level, top up if necessary. Simple 😇
You should use 5w40 oil instead of 5w30 and also you should replace the petrol filter,air filter and cabin pollen filter as well. I've got the same car 1.8T automatic and i always use 5w40 oil(Motul or Liqui Moly are the best) and i always change all filters.
I have separate videos about air and fuel filter change. Also cabin filter is important - lots of people forget that. Regarding oil viscosity - I really don't understand why people choose oil based on viscosity or brand. The most important is VW approved specs according to the engine. This article will help you to understand: www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php
Thanks :) No, I wouldn't recommend engine flush. After some research - I never do it again. The only reason I would do engine flush - if I bought vehicle, second hand, and I don't know what's inside there.
Could the jack stand be put in the oem jacking area along the pinch-well (where the jacking arrows are) that you showed? And then use the hydronic jack next to it with wooden block as you did? Would that cause too much pressure in one area or is that ok?
Great information videos. I have a question of the B5.5 estate version that has done 250000km now its engine starts with rough idle?! It is a 1.8T engine from 2004 but sounds now like a old diesel engine 😬 What could be possible wrong?
@@wawayltd timing belt is changed for 2 years ago but is it a chain that transport the oil in the engine? If its volkswagens long life oil that brakes down to early?
I drive 2012 Sharan 2.0tdi, I use long-life oil, but I change it often as normal oil. My car is on 410.000 miles (about 660.000 km). I know very little about petrol engines. My wife had that Passat just for few months. I know older tdi engines had trouble with oil pump... but what is happening to your car, I don't know, very sorry.
I didn't have that Passat for long. On my Sharan 2.0 tdi I change every 9400 miles, which is 15000 km. I suppose it also depends on oil - I use long life fully synthetic. Some say that it has to be done twice more often, some say that "long life" can last even longer. I just stick to manufacturers standard.
I know this is late, but from what I've seen, you should never go over 5000 miles. I believe VW didn't recommend synthetic oil for the Passats until 2003 or 04. They started recommending synthetic due to oil sludge complaints. Point being is that these engines make sludge, so if you drive your car under "severe conditions" (short trips, stop and go traffic, cold weather, etc.) I wouldn't let my Passat go over 3000 miles regardless of what oil I use. But take this with a grain of salt because I live in a very cold and very hilly city. Also, if you're in America do not buy just any synthetic oil! The laws in USA are such that for a manufacturer to label oil as synthetic, it only has to be 27% synthetic. I recommend Mobil 1 Euro formula or Castrol Edge. (walmart has a great price on 5qts) Spending a little more on better oil and more frequent oil changes is cheap insurance.
I had that car for very short period of time quite long time ago. Mainly my wife was driving it. I liked it - the car and my wife - they are both pretty.
This oil is NOT according to the specifications. The book gives you general outlines for oil grades, but anyone who works on VAG group knows that ONLY 5w-40 is supposed to go in turbocharged gasoline VW/Audi engines. 5W-30 for common rail DPF equipped diesels. And even then it must cover 507.00. In general VW never uses 5w-30. 5w-30 is mostly used in BMW and japanese cars. So no, this oil was NOT correct for this car and it was also not a good brand.
+Rumen Hristov I normally look only at those VW 507.00 numbers etc. I always thought - those are important ones, because even manual doesn't mention specific viscosity, but always says about VW specs. If mileage is higher then use oil with a bit more viscosity. Also, I believe, viscosity numbers should have influence for different climates (countries). 30 is slightly thinner than 40, when engine has reached working temperature. What's wrong with that? Also: www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm
+Rumen Hristov By the way, I had another comment for my old Audi A6 2.0tdi oil change. The guy was insisting that only 0w30 must be used (I had over 300.000 miles at that moment), also he said that 0 and 30 have nothing to do with viscosity.. People see the world with different eyes :)) Talking about this VW in the video, with reasonable mileage, moderate climate - there's nothing wrong with either 5w30 or 5w40. IMAO :)
Problem is that VAG engines are literally looser on the inside. Larger oil gallerries, tolerances bw piston skirts and cylinder, etc compared to 5w30 needin engine. As a result a slightly more viscous lubricant is needed at normal engine temp. Thats why 40 grade mor oil is the standard for vag engines. And yes, you're right about the need for thicker oil for worn engines - same reason as above. Looseness in tolerances gets even larger. So now you need more viscosity to reach the same pressure.
Also the 40 is an indicator of resistance to thermal break-down of the oil. Thats a big factor. 40 grade is considerably more stable to heat break-down than a 30 grade oil. That's very important for turbocharged engines. Espeeeeecially the 1.8T.
Your video is excellent. For what it's worth, I use the Mann W940/25 filter. It increases oil capacity to 5L from 4.2L I also do add oil to the filter before installation. I have used Mobil1 0-40 "European grade" (502 00 approved by VW) successfully for the last year, with no sludging problems encountered.
Mann 950/4 the best filter for longitudal 1.8t.
Thank you! Your videos are always thorough and well explained -- and the HD video quality is SO helpful. Many car tutorial videos on TH-cam are filmed with potatoes, making it very difficult to understand what's going on. You have a great camera operator (and great "helpers") :)
Thank you :)
good instruction video i liked it! But you forgot two minor things. 1 - change the copper washer on the oil drain plug. Copper is a soft metal that you flatten during tightening.when you use it the secont time it will be thinner then when it was new. it can cause leaking.. 2 - put some oil on the filters rubber sealing. if you don't do it the rubber dries out after a while and cracks will arise. this can cause leaking aswell. what i personally do after an oil change is cleaning the engine around it with brake cleaner. so it does not attract dirt and it does not seem like there is a leak. Keep it up! ☻
+24/7 Videos Thank you! recently I started to replace drain plug bolt and washer with every oil change. Regarding seals - I normally lubricate them, but mainly I had to deal with diesel engines and on this petrol one differs a bit, so skipped it, thanks for pointing on that.
no problem. ps i subscribed to y'r channel. i'm buying a passat soon so any how-to video is welcome.
he did say to put some oil on the filters rubber sealing th-cam.com/video/48G0owB_ZqQ/w-d-xo.html
oh ok than i have missed that. my bad!
Does topside oil extractor method for oil change work equally well for this car?
Thanks for the how-to, very usefull and advanced and friendly for beginners.
Thanks - that's the idea of this channel and the website :)
finally i have found my oil filter thanks to you.thank you.
sakar gurung You're very welcome :)
Thank You from CALIFORNIA, USA 🇺🇸
You're very welcome from Bristol, UK 🇬🇧 ... Originally from Latvia 🇱🇻 😁
I did my first oil change (same 1.8T B5 engine) based on your guide.. I also do that Asda plastic trick 😂 thank you
You're welcome :)
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for the detailed guides. I saved $$ now.. ☺
Glad if it helps :)
Great video, very clear instructions - good job!
Thanks 😎👍
Unusual place for a DYI oil change. Thanks for the demo.
Thanks Tracy :) My car prefers to do it out in fresh air.. Like taking dog out :)
thanks for the vid brother. this helped millions
Thanks 👍
Great video -- ochin jarasho! And your children are terrific.
Thanks :)
Great video. To the point and told me only what I needed to know. Thank you.
You're welcome :)
Thank you for posting this video! Well done.
Thanks Robert :)
thank you! very useful tutorial video!👍
You're welcome 👍
I find it just as easy to not remove the coolant tank but instead the big hose. 1 bolt instead of 3, you go a bit diagonally.
Do you mean air intake pipe? Yeah, I suppose that's another way of doing it - no need to mess about with coolant tank. Thank you for your comment :)
one thing what i dont understand?!
so if my car needs 4 liter oil that means 3.5 + 0.5 in oil filter or 4 in engine plus the oil filter capacity?
Normally oil is sold in 5 litre bottles, that should be enough. Put 4 first, let the engine run, whether you filled oil filter or not, let the oil get everywhere it needs to get, stop the engine, check the level, top up if necessary. Simple 😇
i did the oil change and the quantity it was 3 liter in engine and 0.5 liter in filter
so for the 1.6 engine you need 3.5 liter!
thank you!
You're welcome 👍
You should use 5w40 oil instead of 5w30 and also you should replace the petrol filter,air filter and cabin pollen filter as well.
I've got the same car 1.8T automatic and i always use 5w40 oil(Motul or Liqui Moly are the best) and i always change all filters.
I have separate videos about air and fuel filter change. Also cabin filter is important - lots of people forget that.
Regarding oil viscosity - I really don't understand why people choose oil based on viscosity or brand. The most important is VW approved specs according to the engine. This article will help you to understand:
www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php
You're welcome 😉
whell done brother nr 1 change oill bravoo
great video thanks for your help!
Hi Nice work and simply explained. Kindly do more, 1 Q : Do we have to add any Engine Flush, Why the VW manual stating against it?
Thanks :) No, I wouldn't recommend engine flush. After some research - I never do it again. The only reason I would do engine flush - if I bought vehicle, second hand, and I don't know what's inside there.
I have the 1.8 turbo too but it a wagon style im doing oil change on my Chevy Cruze.
Perfect Thanks nice video
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
James Fitzgerald You're very welcome :)
Awesome video ^^ 😎👍👍
Very good guide! Thank you!
You're welcome 👍
Could the jack stand be put in the oem jacking area along the pinch-well (where the jacking arrows are) that you showed? And then use the hydronic jack next to it with wooden block as you did? Would that cause too much pressure in one area or is that ok?
It should be ok, depending where you put those wooden blocks and how safe is the position.
Plastic bag around oil filter, good trick ;)
Thanks :)
Great information videos. I have a question of the B5.5 estate version that has done 250000km now its engine starts with rough idle?! It is a 1.8T engine from 2004 but sounds now like a old diesel engine 😬 What could be possible wrong?
I don't remember if it has belt or chain for timing. If it's a chain - that could be sign that it needs to be changed.
@@wawayltd timing belt is changed for 2 years ago but is it a chain that transport the oil in the engine?
If its volkswagens long life oil that brakes down to early?
I drive 2012 Sharan 2.0tdi, I use long-life oil, but I change it often as normal oil. My car is on 410.000 miles (about 660.000 km).
I know very little about petrol engines. My wife had that Passat just for few months.
I know older tdi engines had trouble with oil pump... but what is happening to your car, I don't know, very sorry.
nice demo Thanks
when you remove the oil filter there is a crank sensor behind it. can you tell me which hole to install it
Sorry Pappa, that was a while ago. I don't have that car anymore, and have no idea where the crank sensor is.
Great thank you 🙏🏼
You're very welcome 👍
Thanks for the vedio. But what du filled om oljefilter boks.
Sorry Abreham, I don't understand your question..
Excellent thank you
You're very welcome 👍
well done bro
Thanks 👍
Great video.
Thanks :)
Nice video mate! by the way, where is your Audi A6? Did you change your car?
Thanks! Audi is still with me.. It's my Mrs car :)
WheelsAndMotors
I was also very upset about the good old Audi, but ok still hanging on alright. Everything's in control.
nice presentation. thanks.
Could u make aveido for coolent change....same car.
jama jakabe sorry, my friend, I don't have this car anymore :(
Quick Question after how many miles do you change the oil again on the passats? Doing my first oil change tomorrow
I didn't have that Passat for long. On my Sharan 2.0 tdi I change every 9400 miles, which is 15000 km. I suppose it also depends on oil - I use long life fully synthetic. Some say that it has to be done twice more often, some say that "long life" can last even longer. I just stick to manufacturers standard.
I know this is late, but from what I've seen, you should never go over 5000 miles. I believe VW didn't recommend synthetic oil for the Passats until 2003 or 04. They started recommending synthetic due to oil sludge complaints. Point being is that these engines make sludge, so if you drive your car under "severe conditions" (short trips, stop and go traffic, cold weather, etc.) I wouldn't let my Passat go over 3000 miles regardless of what oil I use. But take this with a grain of salt because I live in a very cold and very hilly city.
Also, if you're in America do not buy just any synthetic oil! The laws in USA are such that for a manufacturer to label oil as synthetic, it only has to be 27% synthetic. I recommend Mobil 1 Euro formula or Castrol Edge. (walmart has a great price on 5qts)
Spending a little more on better oil and more frequent oil changes is cheap insurance.
I have a volzwagen Passat b5 1.8 exactly same color as yours i'ts good cars, you ca-n give ME an opinion, Hanks
I had that car for very short period of time quite long time ago. Mainly my wife was driving it. I liked it - the car and my wife - they are both pretty.
Good video, which engineoil do you use ?
I used something 5w30 from ASDA, but fully synthetic and VW approved, also matching specification from the book..
Ok thanks
In filter you fill and then 4ltr ?
Yes, and then check the level and top up if necessary.
Can a car tire jack be used to lift car for oil change?
Jack on its own is not safe. I wouldn't get under car that is held only by tyre jack. Stands or rump(s) is the way forward.
Ok then ill wont be cheap and go buy a car jack then. thanks
+eric vanhorn There is nothing wrong to use tyre jack, if it gives enough access. Just secure it with stands.
is it bigger filter ?
Bigger than what?
شكر
You're welcome
Is car still running
I sold that car few years ago. It was exported.
tack
25 shnitzel meters? What? 🤣😘
Ja-ja 🧐😁
You shouldn't have anyone in the car when it is on a jack!!
Evacuate the area!!
...It wasn't just jack ;)
Vw engineers....hahah fuck it im not working on it
This oil is NOT according to the specifications. The book gives you general outlines for oil grades, but anyone who works on VAG group knows that ONLY 5w-40 is supposed to go in turbocharged gasoline VW/Audi engines. 5W-30 for common rail DPF equipped diesels. And even then it must cover 507.00. In general VW never uses 5w-30. 5w-30 is mostly used in BMW and japanese cars. So no, this oil was NOT correct for this car and it was also not a good brand.
+Rumen Hristov I normally look only at those VW 507.00 numbers etc. I always thought - those are important ones, because even manual doesn't mention specific viscosity, but always says about VW specs. If mileage is higher then use oil with a bit more viscosity. Also, I believe, viscosity numbers should have influence for different climates (countries). 30 is slightly thinner than 40, when engine has reached working temperature. What's wrong with that? Also: www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm
+Rumen Hristov By the way, I had another comment for my old Audi A6 2.0tdi oil change. The guy was insisting that only 0w30 must be used (I had over 300.000 miles at that moment), also he said that 0 and 30 have nothing to do with viscosity.. People see the world with different eyes :)) Talking about this VW in the video, with reasonable mileage, moderate climate - there's nothing wrong with either 5w30 or 5w40. IMAO :)
Problem is that VAG engines are literally looser on the inside. Larger oil gallerries, tolerances bw piston skirts and cylinder, etc compared to 5w30 needin engine. As a result a slightly more viscous lubricant is needed at normal engine temp. Thats why 40 grade mor oil is the standard for vag engines. And yes, you're right about the need for thicker oil for worn engines - same reason as above. Looseness in tolerances gets even larger. So now you need more viscosity to reach the same pressure.
Also the 40 is an indicator of resistance to thermal break-down of the oil. Thats a big factor. 40 grade is considerably more stable to heat break-down than a 30 grade oil. That's very important for turbocharged engines. Espeeeeecially the 1.8T.
+Rumen Hristov Interesting... Thanks! How about new-ish 2.0tdi?