I forgot to mention in the video that the wheel hexes are aluminum as well. Also if you didn't notice, you will need to glue the tires before driving off. Thanks for watching!
So this same exact kit I bought came today by UPS. Everything was the exact same except the tires were slick or drift like smooth tires without any tread on them. Same wheels. I also had purchased hop up parts from Tamiya and yeah racing beforehand, so I could upgrade it right away. First obstacle I ran into was when I removed the rear shocks, and removed the rear differential cover. The differential cover I purchased wouldn’t allow the shock towers to mount back properly. Didn’t fit. Then I oiled up the differential housing and didn’t bother to open the differential yet to grease it. I will later. Then I had the Tamiya 68T spur kit and unless you replace the entire driveshaft. You can’t use it. The coupler has a similar disc mounted to the spur gear and I was able to mount the Tamiya 68t directly to that instead of using the provided blue aluminum attachment. It’s literally a driveshaft with a coupler end with a pinned on disc that mounts to the spur. I couldn’t get the Pin out to install it correctly. Any tips to remove pins? The next issue I ran into was. The rear shocks as they were removed. I mounted them onto my stand and began filling them with shock oil 60 weight and I made sure no air bubbles were in the fluid. Then when I called them and sat them aside. I made sure the cap was super tight, but one of them began to leak from the top when I compressed the coil over.
Aluminum parts doesn't always mean better in the handling, acceleration and braking department. And once you hit something hard with aluminum it bends where plastic will flex.
i have the same full alluminum parts sortment and i can say the lower arm are bending super fast.. at the lower damper position i hooked in a brick and the whole lower arm was bendet.. that it was no more possible to reakt für the suspension.. i think aluminum is good in steady parts but at the hangup on the axles... well u will switch it back to plastic
The problem with cheap aluminium parts is that they are usually not even hardened. Also even on the WAY more expensive racing grade RC kits, there are only certain parts ever made out of aluminium, while some literally NEVER are. Forces of an impact have go somewhere. Plastics and carbon either bounce back - or they break. Metal mostly bends. These full metal kits are nice shelf queens, or for drifting. Never attempt to race these, you'll end up unhappy.
I ordered this same set. I bought a 12kg low pro Feetech servo. A radio link remote and receiver. A s3650 3500KV brushless motor & esc. Two 2s Zee tech 5200mah batteries. A battery charger. And some lubricant oil. I need to get shock oil. But even looking at the actual tamiya arc kit. It’s all plastic. That’s why I opted for this kit. Did you ever drive it? I also bought a hardened steel pinion set 19t to 27t. What pinion should I run on it? I’m trying to do some Parking lot speed runs and just mess around.
I noticed the arm connecting the servo horn to the steering buckle is not at a perfect 90 degree angle. Is that ok? I’m building my first tt02 and thought it was an issue but after seeing yours I think it’s ok if it’s not a 90 degree angle.
Hello sir, how well does it perform as is though compared to a stock TT02? Where I'm from they sell Tamiya products at a massive added price sometimes 2 times the price but we do have these at online shops at a much more reasonable price (at around 106usd compared to the cheapest TT02 model we have is 350usd) I'm really looking forward if you could do a running video of this particular chassis (P.S we have a racing club that accepts these kind of chassis but no one else at the club are running it yet)
I don't have this chassis anymore to confirm but I don't think it came with a pinion gear. So yes you will need the Tamiya 27T pinion if you swap the high speed gear set. I can't be 100% sure but I believe the only parts that were not identical to the real TT-02 were the differentials.
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
I forgot to mention in the video that the wheel hexes are aluminum as well. Also if you didn't notice, you will need to glue the tires before driving off. Thanks for watching!
Changing out the springs lowered the chassis by 4mm. It is now only 9mm off the ground. Such a big difference!
@@RCsRCCarswhich springs should we put
Where's the next video? Ive been looking at getting one of these to replace my current TT02 rally chassis.
So this same exact kit I bought came today by UPS. Everything was the exact same except the tires were slick or drift like smooth tires without any tread on them. Same wheels. I also had purchased hop up parts from Tamiya and yeah racing beforehand, so I could upgrade it right away. First obstacle I ran into was when I removed the rear shocks, and removed the rear differential cover. The differential cover I purchased wouldn’t allow the shock towers to mount back properly. Didn’t fit. Then I oiled up the differential housing and didn’t bother to open the differential yet to grease it. I will later. Then I had the Tamiya 68T spur kit and unless you replace the entire driveshaft. You can’t use it. The coupler has a similar disc mounted to the spur gear and I was able to mount the Tamiya 68t directly to that instead of using the provided blue aluminum attachment. It’s literally a driveshaft with a coupler end with a pinned on disc that mounts to the spur. I couldn’t get the
Pin out to install it correctly. Any tips to remove pins? The next issue I ran into was. The rear shocks as they were removed. I mounted them onto my stand and began filling them with shock oil 60 weight and I made sure no air bubbles were in the fluid. Then when I called them and sat them aside. I made sure the cap was super tight, but one of them began to leak from the top when I compressed the coil over.
Aluminum parts doesn't always mean better in the handling, acceleration and braking department.
And once you hit something hard with aluminum it bends where plastic will flex.
Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
It's a simple answer if anyone wants to race/go-fast aluminium kit is a must anything under 20mph keep stock
Ok for a rally car not racing on track as you said
I wouldn’t race with those aluminum arms
I have it myself. It is a lot better than Tamiya. But I have added many other aluminium parts as well.
Ok if your using it for a rally car but for high speed track racing keep it stock plastic .
i have the same full alluminum parts sortment and i can say the lower arm are bending super fast.. at the lower damper position i hooked in a brick and the whole lower arm was bendet.. that it was no more possible to reakt für the suspension.. i think aluminum is good in steady parts but at the hangup on the axles... well u will switch it back to plastic
Thanks for your first hand feedback. 👍
Yeah, stick with the original plastic lower arms. Alloy doesn't always mean better.
The problem with cheap aluminium parts is that they are usually not even hardened. Also even on the WAY more expensive racing grade RC kits, there are only certain parts ever made out of aluminium, while some literally NEVER are. Forces of an impact have go somewhere. Plastics and carbon either bounce back - or they break. Metal mostly bends. These full metal kits are nice shelf queens, or for drifting. Never attempt to race these, you'll end up unhappy.
Thanks!!!
I ordered this same set. I bought a 12kg low pro Feetech servo. A radio link remote and receiver. A s3650 3500KV brushless motor & esc. Two 2s Zee tech 5200mah batteries. A battery charger. And some lubricant oil. I need to get shock oil. But even looking at the actual tamiya arc kit. It’s all plastic. That’s why I opted for this kit. Did you ever drive it? I also bought a hardened steel pinion set 19t to 27t. What pinion should I run on it? I’m trying to do some
Parking lot speed runs and just mess around.
I missed who made this car......and where to get one....😎👍
What a great deal!
I noticed the arm connecting the servo horn to the steering buckle is not at a perfect 90 degree angle. Is that ok? I’m building my first tt02 and thought it was an issue but after seeing yours I think it’s ok if it’s not a 90 degree angle.
Hello sir, how well does it perform as is though compared to a stock TT02? Where I'm from they sell Tamiya products at a massive added price sometimes 2 times the price but we do have these at online shops at a much more reasonable price (at around 106usd compared to the cheapest TT02 model we have is 350usd) I'm really looking forward if you could do a running video of this particular chassis (P.S we have a racing club that accepts these kind of chassis but no one else at the club are running it yet)
Hows the weight vs a normal TT-02?
Camber is not adjustable on this set is it?
Is it worth it? I think so!
do I need to buy a 27 tooth pinion for the 68 tooth tamiya high speed gear hop up if I'm getting this? - Do the parts even fit together? Thanks!
I don't have this chassis anymore to confirm but I don't think it came with a pinion gear. So yes you will need the Tamiya 27T pinion if you swap the high speed gear set. I can't be 100% sure but I believe the only parts that were not identical to the real TT-02 were the differentials.
Can this chassis be modified to a 251mm wheelbase?
I don't have this chassis anymore to confirm but I think the rear arms are reversible. So yes I believe so.