I use the same micrometer I use for reloading rifle cartridges to get the alignment correct. It is accurate to 1/10,000 of an inch. The alignment tool seen in the video is probably accurate to 1/100, about the thickness of standard printer paper.
I know im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my account password. I love any tips you can give me.
I have done 10,000 km on my V4S and have just done my 2nd adjustment on it other than first service. My chain looked just like yours when I adjusted it but I found that if I tightened it to the lines on the jig it still slapped around so I adjusted it so the centre pins were an top of the lines and it made a huge difference. Its quieter, doesn't slap and no slack when you go from off throttle to on throttle. well it works for me . thanks for all your great videos.
This is a good guide. It didn’t quite work on my 2024 Rally though. But I suspect something is wrong with the adjustment mechanism on my bike. Once everything is adjusted on both sides, looking fine, the adjustment moves (a lot) when the wheel hub nut is tightened to the specified 180 Nm. I noticed slready when I picked up the new bike, that the chain was too loose. The adjustment looked all wrong. But when I loosened the hub nut, the adjustment looked fine. I suspect that the workshop adjusted everything, then tightened the nut without checking the chain tension afterwards.
Great video Rembo, helps the uninitiated a lot 👌👍. This might help a bit as well, if I might be so bold:- Before tightening up the axle nut and to get the axle tight against the adjuster bolts. This is easily achieved by placing a rolled up rag(as thick as a finger) on the bottom run of the chain up against the rear wheel chain sprocket, then with one hand roll the wheel gently in a forward direction.This pulls the axle hard up against the adjuster bolts.Maintain the pressure and then with your other hand torque up the axle nut. Recheck chain slack before signing the job off ! Hope this helps ! Well at least that's how we do it in England 🇬🇧
Very helpful to demystify the process when the user manual unhelpfully just states that the adjustment should be done at a Ducati or authorised dealer. I followed the same procedure as yours and am super pleased with the outcome. Well done. Oh and like you, I've a deposit down for upgrading from my V4S to a Pikes Peak. So going along a similar journey to you in many respects. The PP is pulling at my heart strings whereas my head says stick to the V4S as the economics of a PP don't stack up. I'm trying to resist my head and follow my heart. Time will tell...
Here's my view on this... 1. put the bike in gear and lean on the side stand. 2. pull the bike backwards or turn the back wheel to take the slack out of the upper part of the chain, and the lower part is slack, as if the bike is driving the sprocket. 3. insert the gauge as in the video. 4. Manipulate the chain up and down then let rest in position. 5. The pins of the chain, should be between the marks on the gauge, Ideally, in line with the upper mark, but between the marks is tight enough. 6. Adjust the tension until the chain pins are between the marks or ideally inline with the upper mark. 6. You can use a Vernier to measure the same positions of the axle if you haven't got a chain alignment tool.
Picked up the V4S on Thursday Dec 23rd and already put 620 miles to the bike. Yes I can tell the chain getting loose, next week I will bring the bike for 1st service and let them adjust the chain for me.
my chain is slapping like crazy at less than 400 miles had some lean surging issues just yesterday fine today plus rear wheel bearings turned to dust with less than a hundred miles on the bike..love the power and features of this bike but not off to a great start with my first ducati!
Great video as always. You forgot to mention one thing.. The swing arms on both sides have “teeth” indicators cut outs around the rear axle bolt to make the rear wheel aligned without the need of any tools.
@@RemboUSMC Never hurts to double check. The marks would be a good way to make sure you are aligned when you are on a trip and dont have your tool nearby.
@Robert Fivelsdal Stenehjem Pointed out that the V4 Manual states the chain needs to be pushed down while reading the tension tool and the pins should line up with the lower mark on the gauge, he's absolutely right, I'd check the chain again, Rembo, it might be correct once you push the chain down. The manual chain tension section is a bit confusing but after about 100 reads I'm starting to understand it...
Hi @Chuck Norris , I admire you for understanding the manual! On p. 311, it says, ""pushing the chain downwards and upwards and then releasing it", on the following page, the instruction is to just "push the chain downwards with a finger" and then to measure. The two methods make a big difference to the reading! I find it rather confusing.
@@wipi0 The illustrations in both the owner's manual and the service manual, show a finger pressing down on the chain to get the measurement. The pushing up and down just loosens up the links and helps the chain hang more natural. Then take your finger and lightly press down to get the measurement. It is Ideal to have the pins right in the center but if it is in line with the bottom line that is better than it being at the top line. Rule of thumb is that with chain drive, a little bit loose is better than a little bit tight. Drive belts are the opposite. It is better to have them on the tighter end of spec. The way @Rembo USMC is showing you in the video is not entirely correct but at least it is on the loose side of things and not way too tight. Also, you technically should check 3 different areas of the chain and make the chain adjustment at the tightest one.
@@wipi0 I've changed my mind, again! I think you push the chain just to manipulate it as the links may be a bit stiffer in places, pushing it down while measuring can mean there is a massive difference between stationary and taught.
@@CurvedSlightly I've come to the same conclusion. Pushing it down and tightening up to the mark just pulls it too much. So, I basically followed the procedure as shown in the video, went to my dealer to check it, and he confirmed that "it feels right". He also commented that their own service manuals are often quite ambiguous.
A question, where can I find the torque for the rear nut after adjusting the tension? For the panigale V4 the torge is 220 NM, which translates into 162 ft-lb. I noticed that you are using 130 ft-lb in the video. Is there somewhere a table where we can find all the torques for different parts?
Excellent video as always. Let me ask something, rear nut is 36 mm 12 points, which size is the front nut? I need front and rear sockets to be safe in the road.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Expect to do the same once my V4S is in hand. Any mods you’re planning or considered? I talked to my Ducati parts guys today about installing the tire pressure monitor system once my bike arrives. Don’t want to get caught in a bad situation with slow leaks, etc. Also thinking about the enduro pack.
Yeah, I'm getting the TPSs, I though they were a bit of a gimmick for those who can't be bothered checking pressures before rides, but on UK roads where there are nails, screws even pieces of conductor! I want to know when I've got a slow puncture during a ride, I've oreded them and will fit them when I next change the tyre, which won't be long!
Hi Rembo. I’m considering buying a Ducati V4 Rally. I ride a lot with a pillion and full luggage. How often do you reckon the chain would need adjusting on a big tour of about 3000 miles ?
Once you get past the first 700 miles and have the first adjustment, I would only expect it to be adjusted about every 3-4k miles. Not as often as you might think. I do 3000 mile trips with no adjustment whatsoever.
Hello to you. Can you please give me the diameter of your socket to tighten the bolt of the rear wheel because I would like to buy one. I can't know because I ordered my Multistrada V4 S but haven't received it yet. I can not wait to see her .. Thank you and have a nice day.
Thanks for this video Rembo👍. Question: adjusting the chain on the side stand (which is the advice of Ducati), what about having the rear wheel on the ground and the possibilty/flexibility to be able to move the rear wheel/axle. What is your experience? Thanks, drive safe💪.
The owner's manual says to "turn the rear wheel until you find the position where the chain is tightest". This is very ambiguous. Turn the rear wheel in which direction? Turn the rear wheel so it's tightest on the upper section of chain, or on the lower section of chain, where the measuring will occur? Unfortunately, your video doesn't clarify that either. With the engine in first gear, turning the rear wheel forward will tighten the lower section of the chain. Turning it to the rear will tighten the upper section of the chain. These will result in different readings on the gauge, of course. The manual also says to perform the test on three equally spaced apart places on the chain. You don't mention this in the video.
@Raleigh Moody Hopefully you got an answer to this on your own by now, but just in case you didn't. @Rembo USMC did show how to put it in gear and rock the bike backward to tighten the top side of the chain. The take your measurement. Now, you should do this process 3 times at 3 points equal distance apart. By doing that you will be looking for which of the 3 measurements are the tightest. Then go to that point of measurement and adjust the chain to specifications as per the manual. The reason for this, is if you were to just measure in 1 spot and it were to be the loosest spot on the chain, then when you tightened up the chain to spec it tightest part of the chain would be too tight. It is better to have the loosest part of the chain a little loose than have any section too tight. In reality, is this a huge deal? Some say it is and other say not really that much. I just think it's good to understand the bigger picture and then you can make your own decision on how you want to do it. Hope this helps.
You know what, you're right, I've just read the manual and where as it's a bit confusing, I think you have to push the chain down, so he's set it up wrong.
@@CurvedSlightly but what he is doing is not going to hurt because it's on the loose side. If he were showing a technique that was putting it overtight then yes that would be bad. A loose chain is a happy chain. A tight belt is a happy belt. At least you know what you are looking for and can make your own adjustments now.
Sorry to ruin the party, but technicly the job was not been done correctly, and it is wrong. After you done adjusting the chain tension, you need to tight the wheel nut, and only thern tight the tnsion 10mm bolt and 12mm nut.
@@RemboUSMC Hello, when you lock the bolt and the nut first, and the wheel after, there will be a gap between the wheel shaft and the bolt. In order to eliminate the gap, the correct way is to adjust the chain tension, lock the wheel and only then lock/secure the bolt againts the wheel shaft and the nut to secure the bolt.
@@Gal-Gal Ok so what I do is after I adjust, especially after loosening. I push the wheel forward so it hits the bolts and then I recheck the tension. Once the tension is correct, I lock down the adjusters and then last do the axle nut. I will tell you that many times when I do it this way, the chain then tightens even more which I don't understand because I've already locked the adjusters. This might explain that.
@@RemboUSMC it’s definitely not a 5 min job getting the tool out and going back & forth to ensure both sides are evenly adjusted, getting filthy, carrying the tools, spray, etc. with you everywhere you go, especially when camping in the middle of nowhere and not having running water or soap.
I have adjusted chains on sportbikes for years before switching Ducati XDiavel in 2016 and no back to chain on my 2022 V4S. It’s really not hard or a big deal for experienced people. If you have never done it before, it will take you some time the first time, after a few times, like @rembo said, it’s a 5 minute job. Not rocket science. If you turn the left side 1,2, or 3 turns, then turn the right side the same. I don’t even measure it, I can tell from experience wether a chain has too much slack.
![How to change the chain on your Ducati Multistrada V4S [ Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y3kyde8agXM/mqdefault.jpg)
What method do you use to adjust your motorcycle chain? How much excess slack do you allow before you decide to adjust your chain? Comment below.
I use the same micrometer I use for reloading rifle cartridges to get the alignment correct. It is accurate to 1/10,000 of an inch. The alignment tool seen in the video is probably accurate to 1/100, about the thickness of standard printer paper.
I know im asking randomly but does someone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my account password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Jaime Houston Instablaster ;)
I have a single side swing arm like you have on your Pikes Peak. It is so much simpler to adjust the chain with a "C" spinner.
I have done 10,000 km on my V4S and have just done my 2nd adjustment on it other than first service. My chain looked just like yours when I adjusted it but I found that if I tightened it to the lines on the jig it still slapped around so I adjusted it so the centre pins were an top of the lines and it made a huge difference. Its quieter, doesn't slap and no slack when you go from off throttle to on throttle. well it works for me . thanks for all your great videos.
I enjoy all of your V4S related videos. Thanks for putting them together.
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the video, Rembo. I don't ride a ton but after two thousand miles my chain is definitely out of spec!
This is a good guide. It didn’t quite work on my 2024 Rally though. But I suspect something is wrong with the adjustment mechanism on my bike. Once everything is adjusted on both sides, looking fine, the adjustment moves (a lot) when the wheel hub nut is tightened to the specified 180 Nm.
I noticed slready when I picked up the new bike, that the chain was too loose. The adjustment looked all wrong. But when I loosened the hub nut, the adjustment looked fine. I suspect that the workshop adjusted everything, then tightened the nut without checking the chain tension afterwards.
Great video Rembo, helps the uninitiated a lot 👌👍. This might help a bit as well, if I might be so bold:- Before tightening up the axle nut and to get the axle tight against the adjuster bolts. This is easily achieved by placing a rolled up rag(as thick as a finger) on the bottom run of the chain up against the rear wheel chain sprocket, then with one hand roll the wheel gently in a forward direction.This pulls the axle hard up against the adjuster bolts.Maintain the pressure and then with your other hand torque up the axle nut. Recheck chain slack before signing the job off ! Hope this helps ! Well at least that's how we do it in England 🇬🇧
Great tip. Thank you!
I just wanted to say thank you for making the videos showing how to work on the pikes peak.
Glad you like them!
Very helpful to demystify the process when the user manual unhelpfully just states that the adjustment should be done at a Ducati or authorised dealer. I followed the same procedure as yours and am super pleased with the outcome. Well done. Oh and like you, I've a deposit down for upgrading from my V4S to a Pikes Peak. So going along a similar journey to you in many respects. The PP is pulling at my heart strings whereas my head says stick to the V4S as the economics of a PP don't stack up. I'm trying to resist my head and follow my heart. Time will tell...
You will be happy with the Multistrada V4 Pikes Peak. Good choice.
Here's my view on this...
1. put the bike in gear and lean on the side stand.
2. pull the bike backwards or turn the back wheel to take the slack out of the upper part of the chain, and the lower part is slack, as if the bike is driving the sprocket.
3. insert the gauge as in the video.
4. Manipulate the chain up and down then let rest in position.
5. The pins of the chain, should be between the marks on the gauge, Ideally, in line with the upper mark, but between the marks is tight enough.
6. Adjust the tension until the chain pins are between the marks or ideally inline with the upper mark.
6. You can use a Vernier to measure the same positions of the axle if you haven't got a chain alignment tool.
Thank you
Picked up the V4S on Thursday Dec 23rd and already put 620 miles to the bike. Yes I can tell the chain getting loose, next week I will bring the bike for 1st service and let them adjust the chain for me.
Yes Sir, that first 600+ miles stretches the heck out of the new chain.
my chain is slapping like crazy at less than 400 miles had some lean surging issues just yesterday fine today plus rear wheel bearings turned to dust with less than a hundred miles on the bike..love the power and features of this bike but not off to a great start with my first ducati!
That’s actually hard to believe
Great video as always. You forgot to mention one thing.. The swing arms on both sides have “teeth” indicators cut outs around the rear axle bolt to make the rear wheel aligned without the need of any tools.
True, but I feel as though I am more accurate with the tool and don't always trust the marks.
@@RemboUSMC Never hurts to double check. The marks would be a good way to make sure you are aligned when you are on a trip and dont have your tool nearby.
IMHO these teeth are too big to be accurate. I'm doing my chain with calipper and it works for me.
Would also love to see what you do for chain cleaning & lubing. Another future video. 😉
Thank you! Perfect description 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
@Robert Fivelsdal Stenehjem
Pointed out that the V4 Manual states the chain needs to be pushed down while reading the tension tool and the pins should line up with the lower mark on the gauge, he's absolutely right, I'd check the chain again, Rembo, it might be correct once you push the chain down. The manual chain tension section is a bit confusing but after about 100 reads I'm starting to understand it...
Hi @Chuck Norris , I admire you for understanding the manual! On p. 311, it says, ""pushing the chain downwards and upwards and then releasing it", on the following page, the instruction is to just "push the chain downwards with a finger" and then to measure. The two methods make a big difference to the reading! I find it rather confusing.
@@wipi0 The illustrations in both the owner's manual and the service manual, show a finger pressing down on the chain to get the measurement. The pushing up and down just loosens up the links and helps the chain hang more natural. Then take your finger and lightly press down to get the measurement. It is Ideal to have the pins right in the center but if it is in line with the bottom line that is better than it being at the top line. Rule of thumb is that with chain drive, a little bit loose is better than a little bit tight. Drive belts are the opposite. It is better to have them on the tighter end of spec. The way @Rembo USMC is showing you in the video is not entirely correct but at least it is on the loose side of things and not way too tight. Also, you technically should check 3 different areas of the chain and make the chain adjustment at the tightest one.
@@revilok8698 Thank you, that makes sense, will follow your advice
@@wipi0 I've changed my mind, again! I think you push the chain just to manipulate it as the links may be a bit stiffer in places, pushing it down while measuring can mean there is a massive difference between stationary and taught.
@@CurvedSlightly I've come to the same conclusion. Pushing it down and tightening up to the mark just pulls it too much. So, I basically followed the procedure as shown in the video, went to my dealer to check it, and he confirmed that "it feels right". He also commented that their own service manuals are often quite ambiguous.
Thx very much it is very helpful 😀
Thanks Rembo.
Any time!
A question, where can I find the torque for the rear nut after adjusting the tension? For the panigale V4 the torge is 220 NM, which translates into 162 ft-lb. I noticed that you are using 130 ft-lb in the video. Is there somewhere a table where we can find all the torques for different parts?
According to my local dealer the rear wheelnut shall be thightened to 180Nm
Home depot, 36mm / 12 point. 👍🏼
Rear axle nut 36mm, 12 points. Torque is 180 Nm at the rear and 64 Nm at the front. Perhaps the current information will be useful to someone.
Nice video. I was going to make one when my Multi arrives, but now I don't have to! 😀
Hi can you do also a review about the heat of the motor and screen protection and also the navigation ? 😉
Yes
Oh.. I forgot the suspension 🙈
Excelente explicación, gracias!!
Please do vid on chain cleaning/lube next time you need to do it. Ty!
I just did the chain cleaning and lube but did not video it. I figured there were tons for videos like that out there.
Hola, me parece que las luces altas no sirven para nada .. sabes si se pueden ajustar y como hacerlo ?
Hi Rembo, appreciate your videos, keep them coming.
Do you where I can get the specs for the 2021 Multistrada v4s rear wheel nut torque?
thanks
10:45
Hi. And dose it make difference what preload its set at the time of ajusting? Because I'm using 24 preload on daily basis. Thank you very much
With the tolerances in the slack, I don't believe so.
Rembo, nice video. I need adjust my chain of Multistrada V2s, is the same process?
All chain adjustments are similar. I am not familiar with the specifics for the V2.
@@RemboUSMC thanks Rembo, I found specification, 50 to 52 mm!
thanksvfor the video
You're welcome
Excellent video as always.
Let me ask something, rear nut is 36 mm 12 points, which size is the front nut?
I need front and rear sockets to be safe in the road.
I actually don't know the front. I do know that it is bigger than 27mm and smaller than 36mm. I don't have the socket for it yet.
@@RemboUSMC I just measured and it's a 30 mm 6 points.
Great video and information as DUCATI do not have a maintenance manual released yet......👌👍😎
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Expect to do the same once my V4S is in hand.
Any mods you’re planning or considered? I talked to my Ducati parts guys today about installing the tire pressure monitor system once my bike arrives. Don’t want to get caught in a bad situation with slow leaks, etc. Also thinking about the enduro pack.
The only items I am getting are 1 the engine/crash bars which are on order and probably and I mean probably the touring windscreen. Probably.......
Yeah, I'm getting the TPSs, I though they were a bit of a gimmick for those who can't be bothered checking pressures before rides, but on UK roads where there are nails, screws even pieces of conductor! I want to know when I've got a slow puncture during a ride, I've oreded them and will fit them when I next change the tyre, which won't be long!
Hi, have you though of the BMW M series chain...... I beleive no maintainance needed.
Not yet!
Hi Rembo. I’m considering buying a Ducati V4 Rally. I ride a lot with a pillion and full luggage. How often do you reckon the chain would need adjusting on a big tour of about 3000 miles ?
Once you get past the first 700 miles and have the first adjustment, I would only expect it to be adjusted about every 3-4k miles. Not as often as you might think. I do 3000 mile trips with no adjustment whatsoever.
I believe the owners handbook says adjust the chain in Urban mode.
?
If you are not a handy man, Dealer will do it during routine service. That much slag is not going to hurt anything.
Thank you good man.
Hello to you.
Can you please give me the diameter of your socket to tighten the bolt of the rear wheel because I would like to buy one.
I can't know because I ordered my Multistrada V4 S but haven't received it yet. I can not wait to see her ..
Thank you and have a nice day.
36mm 12 point
th-cam.com/video/460hL7SJ-BE/w-d-xo.html
@@RemboUSMC merci 👍
I want to buy it. Please send me the link where I can buy it.
I just searched Amazon.
Search. what are keywords
Thanks for this video Rembo👍. Question: adjusting the chain on the side stand (which is the advice of Ducati), what about having the rear wheel on the ground and the possibilty/flexibility to be able to move the rear wheel/axle. What is your experience? Thanks, drive safe💪.
You cannot adjust the chain with the motorcycle up on the center stand because there is less tension on the chain.
I saw Rembo's video and bought 36mm, but I confirmed that the muti v4 sold in Korea does not fit 36mm. My multi v4 is 38mm. Why is this?
Well that is an excellent question. It makes no sense whatsoever from a manufacturer's standpoint. Hmmmmmmmm..
It has to be a 12 point socket.
FAKE
The owner's manual says to "turn the rear wheel until you find the position where the chain is tightest". This is very ambiguous. Turn the rear wheel in which direction? Turn the rear wheel so it's tightest on the upper section of chain, or on the lower section of chain, where the measuring will occur? Unfortunately, your video doesn't clarify that either.
With the engine in first gear, turning the rear wheel forward will tighten the lower section of the chain. Turning it to the rear will tighten the upper section of the chain. These will result in different readings on the gauge, of course.
The manual also says to perform the test on three equally spaced apart places on the chain. You don't mention this in the video.
Tightest on top places the slack on the bottom where the adjustment is measured.
@Raleigh Moody Hopefully you got an answer to this on your own by now, but just in case you didn't. @Rembo USMC did show how to put it in gear and rock the bike backward to tighten the top side of the chain. The take your measurement. Now, you should do this process 3 times at 3 points equal distance apart. By doing that you will be looking for which of the 3 measurements are the tightest. Then go to that point of measurement and adjust the chain to specifications as per the manual. The reason for this, is if you were to just measure in 1 spot and it were to be the loosest spot on the chain, then when you tightened up the chain to spec it tightest part of the chain would be too tight. It is better to have the loosest part of the chain a little loose than have any section too tight. In reality, is this a huge deal? Some say it is and other say not really that much. I just think it's good to understand the bigger picture and then you can make your own decision on how you want to do it. Hope this helps.
The instruction manual says to put pressure down on the chain and then read the measurement.. according to that your chain still has too much slack..
No, press up and down on the chain, just to free the links.
You know what, you're right, I've just read the manual and where as it's a bit confusing, I think you have to push the chain down, so he's set it up wrong.
@@CurvedSlightly but what he is doing is not going to hurt because it's on the loose side. If he were showing a technique that was putting it overtight then yes that would be bad. A loose chain is a happy chain. A tight belt is a happy belt. At least you know what you are looking for and can make your own adjustments now.
Sorry to ruin the party, but technicly the job was not been done correctly, and it is wrong. After you done adjusting the chain tension, you need to tight the wheel nut, and only thern tight the tnsion 10mm bolt and 12mm nut.
I learned something new. Please explain the reasoning behind that so I can better understand.
@@RemboUSMC Hello, when you lock the bolt and the nut first, and the wheel after, there will be a gap between the wheel shaft and the bolt. In order to eliminate the gap, the correct way is to adjust the chain tension, lock the wheel and only then lock/secure the bolt againts the wheel shaft and the nut to secure the bolt.
@@Gal-Gal Ok so what I do is after I adjust, especially after loosening. I push the wheel forward so it hits the bolts and then I recheck the tension. Once the tension is correct, I lock down the adjusters and then last do the axle nut. I will tell you that many times when I do it this way, the chain then tightens even more which I don't understand because I've already locked the adjusters. This might explain that.
I was gonna get the V4S, but then I saw this. Think I’ll just go with the GSA shaft. Shame, but this is a time-consuming PITA.
It takes about 5 minutes and you do it once every 4-5k miles. The shaft may be more of your liking if you don't like tinkering with bikes.
@@RemboUSMC it’s definitely not a 5 min job getting the tool out and going back & forth to ensure both sides are evenly adjusted, getting filthy, carrying the tools, spray, etc. with you everywhere you go, especially when camping in the middle of nowhere and not having running water or soap.
@@ryanmalone2681 try a car you wouldnt have that issue
@@SP-xd8gs Yeah, but I’d be bored.
I have adjusted chains on sportbikes for years before switching Ducati XDiavel in 2016 and no back to chain on my 2022 V4S. It’s really not hard or a big deal for experienced people. If you have never done it before, it will take you some time the first time, after a few times, like @rembo said, it’s a 5 minute job. Not rocket science. If you turn the left side 1,2, or 3 turns, then turn the right side the same. I don’t even measure it, I can tell from experience wether a chain has too much slack.