'...then you have every 10m one protection. For sure, falling is not so good an idea i would say...' oh boy. i shat my pants being half that distance from the last bolt in easy terrain on a multipitch
Pushing the limit? You do the same climb even if you put in more pro. It’s like saying that not wearing a seat belt and helmet is ‘pushing the limit’ in Motorsport.
The possibility of the rope breaking as a result of lighter, more advanced technology is unacceptable and does not strike me as being a progression of the sport.
It is a general trend in the last 30 years quality has gone down in any mass produced product, not just alpinism. This is due to greed and built in obsolescence to force people to buy new things they keep throwing away what is good with the product and change it sometimes for worse just to have a "newer" model to sell on the next season. The pressure is always marketing, not improvement. To make things worse everything is manufactured in China where quality is very hard to get and keep.
Maybe someone can help me out. If you climb 200 metres at a time, how long is your rope? Do they actually carry a rope that long or are they climbing simultaneously with a shorter rope? i suppose then they only need to switch leads when the leader runs out of protection to place, but then how do you build a belay?
Two hudered meter climb is a multipitch. They just don't make 400+ meter ropes as far as i know. it goes like this: One guy climbs up while placing protection n' shizz, afet he's done climbing he sets up an anchor which is a station to belay from, then he proceeds to belay the guy climbing bellow him while he collects the cams, nuts, friends etc, when he climbs up to the anchor the process is being repeated
Or they climb simultaneously. They are connected with a 50 or 60 meters rope. Leading climber sets protection gear, following climber collects them. As Michi was explaining, they climb 200 meters in one push, set protection every 10 meters, so they need 20 quick draws or friends until the leading climber has to stop and wait for his partner.
yeah, but simul climbing is something that isn't really worth it. Sure it theoretically makes the climbing two times faster, but the risk involved in falling gets so riddiculous that it is only ever passable at really easy climbs or at a climb both climbers know well. In the case of simul climbing the force applied to placed protection is doubled, which could mean that the protection falls off. one climber can yank the other head first into a rock etc etc. Just don't do it if you aren't really sure
if somebody fears of a single rope tearing in this kind of multi pitch route then (s)he should be using a double-rope technique (like halves or twins), which is kind of recommended if not correct for this kind of climbs...this is not like sport multi-pitch routes where you can use a single rope and the route is what? 300m tops an BOLTED every few meters...I may not be a person to give advice or judge (given recent events, where I fell like 8m due to ignored clinch), but I doubt that Ter Cime is reasonably bolted and what did he say? climbing 200m in a row with a single rope and very poor communication possibilities is not a very good idea...but even so, very nice climb and route and they did a great job ;)
![พบรัก - INK WARUNTORN x FELLOW FELLOW [LIVE SESSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VonHhP6_Y8/mqdefault.jpg)
So good, miss you Ueli.
Very good. Kodos to who was filming. That exposure looks spectacular.
'...then you have every 10m one protection. For sure, falling is not so good an idea i would say...' oh boy. i shat my pants being half that distance from the last bolt in easy terrain on a multipitch
True Story. But a wise man named Ueli Steck said once: "You don´t know your Limit, untill you go over it."
Pushing the limit? You do the same climb even if you put in more pro. It’s like saying that not wearing a seat belt and helmet is ‘pushing the limit’ in Motorsport.
I don't think falling a big whipper on bolts is the same as soft steel old pitons.
this is some sick stuff
amazing episode!
RIP Ueli.
06:11 - woah!
so awesome!
The possibility of the rope breaking as a result of lighter, more advanced technology is unacceptable and does not strike me as being a progression of the sport.
It is a general trend in the last 30 years quality has gone down in any mass produced product, not just alpinism. This is due to greed and built in obsolescence to force people to buy new things they keep throwing away what is good with the product and change it sometimes for worse just to have a "newer" model to sell on the next season. The pressure is always marketing, not improvement. To make things worse everything is manufactured in China where quality is very hard to get and keep.
Great video... cool chap.
Maybe someone can help me out. If you climb 200 metres at a time, how long is your rope? Do they actually carry a rope that long or are they climbing simultaneously with a shorter rope? i suppose then they only need to switch leads when the leader runs out of protection to place, but then how do you build a belay?
if they don't belay they climb simultaneously and just use the last few protections to make an anchor for belay so they can switch I would imagine no?
Two hudered meter climb is a multipitch. They just don't make 400+ meter ropes as far as i know. it goes like this: One guy climbs up while placing protection n' shizz, afet he's done climbing he sets up an anchor which is a station to belay from, then he proceeds to belay the guy climbing bellow him while he collects the cams, nuts, friends etc, when he climbs up to the anchor the process is being repeated
thanks for the explanation dude!
Or they climb simultaneously. They are connected with a 50 or 60 meters rope. Leading climber sets protection gear, following climber collects them. As Michi was explaining, they climb 200 meters in one push, set protection every 10 meters, so they need 20 quick draws or friends until the leading climber has to stop and wait for his partner.
yeah, but simul climbing is something that isn't really worth it. Sure it theoretically makes the climbing two times faster, but the risk involved in falling gets so riddiculous that it is only ever passable at really easy climbs or at a climb both climbers know well. In the case of simul climbing the force applied to placed protection is doubled, which could mean that the protection falls off. one climber can yank the other head first into a rock etc etc. Just don't do it if you aren't really sure
Did you get a new mic? Sounds so much clearer
'not a good idea to fall' is not something you're meant to say in climbing haha
Name of the song?
rip brother
"Falling not so good idea...." I leave runnouts to my parents and rather face a slapshot by Zdeno Chara.
if somebody fears of a single rope tearing in this kind of multi pitch route then (s)he should be using a double-rope technique (like halves or twins), which is kind of recommended if not correct for this kind of climbs...this is not like sport multi-pitch routes where you can use a single rope and the route is what? 300m tops an BOLTED every few meters...I may not be a person to give advice or judge (given recent events, where I fell like 8m due to ignored clinch), but I doubt that Ter Cime is reasonably bolted and what did he say? climbing 200m in a row with a single rope and very poor communication possibilities is not a very good idea...but even so, very nice climb and route and they did a great job ;)
bello bello
a climber that doesnt trust his rope... errr, not a good combination. :D nice vid!