For those setting errors after: Before turning the key back on, pull the negative battery cable and pump the brakes several times until they firm up. Then, reconnect the battery, start the vehicle and apply then release the park brake. If all goes well, this should not cause any error codes.
Agreed - I am in the middle of the job and one pin was completely locked up and needed to be replaced. The stuck pin was the reason the inner pad was shot and the outer was still like new. 35k miles and needed new rotors as well.
Great video. It was very informative. I was able to get the brake calipers on and off without removing the electronic parking brakes. The bolts for the caliper brackets were super tight . My left inner pad was significantly more worn than the outer left pad and much more than the right pads. The factory rotors were disproportionally worn and pitted, especially on the insides. The new brakes feel great!
I was fighting it at first, but then I noticed labeled on the back of my pads were "LH Outer, LH Inner, RH Outer, and RH Inner" once I put the right configuration in there it slipped right past. Those spring clips are a joke though.
nice job 👍 when removing the torx screw theres two perfectly good threaded bores that can be used as jack bolt bores to break that rotor free from the hub, no need for beating on it.
Every time i go down muddy roads, i have to get my rear brakes changed. I have a "TrailBoss" that can't seem to handle mudd. Second time in 40k im doing this. First time was at 8k. Nice design Chevy 👌
I have 65k miles on my truck. I use it mostly for my work truck but on the weekends it's the families fishing spot finder in the deep woods! Mines just the LT and it's lasted this long with still no problems at all. Rotors and pads still work and look great!
Excellent video and thank you so much. I was able to put the caliper back on the bracket without removing the electronic emergency brake device. I just squeezed the piston all the way back and then I was able to get it back on by sliding the top part on first and then putting the bottom part over the brake pads last. Hard to describe, but I hope that makes sense.
My 1st time doing brakes on a newer vehicle. This video was very helpful. I did not have to remove the park brake motor, it was just a matter of simply doing a light twist and it came out, make sure the caliper piston in fully compressed and it will twist back it fairly easily. Thankfully on mine rotors were good, monitor show 17% life at 50k miles, but when I removed the pads they were closer to 50% life left still.
Thanks for the great video. I had this on my phone last night in the garage and finished up the job today. Being thorough while also getting right to the point can be difficult, but you nailed it. Cheers 🍻
Great video. I used a bigger hammer. Much easier. I also compressed the caliper piston all the way and was able to fit it over the new pads without removing that motor off. What wasted most of my time was the torx guide screws from the rotor to the hub. Both side were seized. Both I had to drill out. I installed the rotor without it. Wjthout this video, I would get stuck on the sensore plugs for sure. Thanks!
This is a great tutorial for many. But I’d like to add, disconnecting the battery and pumping the brakes before reconnecting too. Because with these newer models, they will throw ESC and make your check engine light on if/when brake sensor is played with. Don’t panic, you can erase these codes if you have any code reader like cheap one from Walmart. 👍
Also, if anyone else sees this, i could not get my codes to clear with one of my code readers like normal, so what i had to do to finally get the codes cleared is to hold the start button without the brake to put the truck into ACC mode, then cleared the codes and all was good.
Video came at perfect time just finished doing my fronts following your video and was super easy to follow. Was hoping you had a video on the rear and posted 4 hours ago couldn’t had been a better time. Earned my sub thank you man
I recommend removing the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the caliper pistons. Remember to replace the reservoir cap after both caliper pistons are compressed.
With that much difference in wear between the inner and outer pad I would say your problem is more likely due to the slide pins sticking than a warped rotor. Every time you replace brake pads you should pull the slide pins out, clean them, and coat them with fresh grease.
Thanks a lot! This video was massively helpful. I think the wear issue is a function of the electronic p-brake. I think it may fail to completely release in winter and cause the extra wear on the rotor. I'm replacing mine at 33K miles and only 2 Northern NY winters. I'd love to know if Silverado owners with the conventional p-brakes have the same problem.
I think you're probably correct, as I found the electronic brake side was much worse than the other side, definitely will be changing them more often moving forward.
dealer said I went 4x4ing too much, even on the brand new truck, I do a lot of gravel but dam that side wears fast. usually every 8 months I need new brakes. Such a shame.
@@RulisGarage I wouldn't. It's easy enough to put them into service mode. I'm 74 and I figured it out...after watching the video. You young guys shouldn't have amy problem. 👍
Same here I always had more wear in the front but this week my brake started to make noise from the back and now they are 57% in the front and 57% in the rear...the truck have 50 000km ....very disappointed both side in the rear make noise and seems to have make small groove on the rotor. Gonna have to change them already...🎉
My rear pads and discs need replacement after only 29,000Kms. Fronts are in great shape. I have never heard of or seen the need to replace the rear before the fronts and certainly not at such low Kms. PS that screw that holds the disk is a torx not a hex.
It’s because they changed the way the brakes are applied.. use to be 60 in front and 40 in back but they made it so every brake pad gets the same amount of pressure at the same time so apply evenly. They were to stupid to beef up the rear end brakes when coming up with the design
My rears are junk at 35k. Fronts are still great. At about 19k I had shaking really bad and all the rotors were warped. We turned the rotors then and now have to replace rears. Dealer told me this was common now that they are replacing more and more between 30k and 40k.
Need to put grease between the slide clips and the caliper bracket too. Also the issue was not a warped rotor. That caliper was not releasing causing the back pad to stick. That’s why the inner pad was down to metal and the outer one was still like new.
yup he didnt even check the caliper slide pins ,,,,,, and didnt put grease under the clips thats were the rust starts that inner pad was stuck ,,,,,,, he def cut out alot because i just did that job on my 2019 and it sucked ,,,,, none of these helped
Your video was super helpful for me, working on my 2020 Silverado. However, when I started the truck back up I received 7 errors saying that I had brake system failure along with many other errors. Have you encountered anything like this? Thank you.
Awesome video. Love how you walked through the whole process. A bit confused at the beginning you were talking about some kind of “proeces”? Not sure. 😂 JK. There was a TH-cam that talked about the park brake motor receding by itself? I think the guys TH-cam was just Chad. Wonder if this would prevent removing the park brake motor?
I just changed mine and did it exactly the way you did it (thanks a ton btw) but when I was done, it said new pads detected yes or no. I selected yes but now it doesnt show the brake pad life and I am getting a service brake pad monitor pop up 9:50
Great Video Andrew, learned a a lot from the “replacing the front brakes video” so a comment and a question. I found that when disconnecting the sensor cable if you press down on the white tab that you push up it releases the cable much easier. Question, I have the same issue with my 2019 rear brakes wearing out the inside pad before the outside pad. Any comment on that as a preventative measure or is it just less than desirable engineering? 😮
I am at 107k and the rear brakes need replacing the fronts still got 32% so today I am changing the rear Pads, it seems that the fronts will need a regrinds on the rotors as it shakes when applying the brakes so will get that done as well
Do you have to keep the key on during the entire procedure or will the truck remember that it's in service mode if you turn the key off? I'm facing having to replace all four rotors and pads after only 15,000 miles> I haven't seen brakes this cheap on a car since my old Toyota back in the 70's.
@@tonys1203 Good luck. My warranty is expired by almost a year so I’m screwed. Luckily I’m a retired mechanic, so I’ll order out rotors and pads and deal with my disappointment. For the most part this is the first issue I’ve had, so knock on wood, I’ve heard horror stories from other owners.
@@Back_door_bandit_98 something isn’t right when your outer pad looks new, the inner pad is worn to the metal and the rotors have more craters than the moon.
Do you do the same thing on a 2024 GMC 2500 hd Sierra , I want to put on a heavy duty brake pad for tow Power Stoke Pads .. Thanks and a very good video!!!! 😊
good question! I believe this is because you don't want any coating between the rotor and the pads, it could affect your braking. the coating is cosmoline that they apply at the factory to keep it from rusting during shipping and storage, once you get the rotor on the car the pads will scrub off any rust that builds up
I had major issues after. Sprongy brake pedal no stopping power and several fault lights. As soon as i used my scan tool to clear the codes everything worked perfectly.
My understanding is it's only the rear, as that's where your parking brake is. But it still won't hurt to put it in park service mode when doing the front, only takes 30 seconds!
@@jlboers i have a 2020 Chevy silverado 3500 ltz 4x4. Try to put in service mode the wrench flashes but it doesnt stay on with like this video. Is there any other way to change the rear brake without the brake service mode?
Hold the start button for a few seconds without touching the brake pedal and it will turn the truck on without starting. Then the process to put it in brake service mode is the same.
@@colinbergeson2239 “Hoss” there are multiple other people on here complaining of the same issue, one even at 15k miles. It’s GMs junk brakes not the driver.
Mine has 55k and I’m running 22% of front and 53% back Light braking helps use the rear rather than the front. If you brake hard your front wear out quicker
Silicone is for your rubber parts like the boots that go over the bolts. You should be using the Red threadlock but blue will do good too. Get copper antiseize opposed to usung the cheap silver crap the brake kits come with. Always clean the piston before depressing back into place. Dont spray eith brake cleaner, instead soak a rag or towel with brake clearner and wipe it clean then push it back in. Dont use a screw driver, use an old brake pad to push on the piston. Always replace the sensor, never reuse it.
Am I the only one getting squeamish over him using jack stands on gravel? A small 2x2 piece of plywood on each jackstand would be more stable. Just saying
Dealer told me that they usually replace thr calipers when replacing brakes. Is this standard? I only have 70k miles. Thinking its just a way for them to charge me more.
That alone is a scam, replacing calipers with brakes? The calipers itself can last up to 100k and “brakes and rotors” definitely wear faster than the caliper. Now were they talking about brakes and rotors? That I can see being together, but it all depends on your wallet. Together is “recommended “ world wide but not mandatory.
Got 94K on my AT4 and I’m at 50% in the front and 75% in the rear. Figured I’d change out the fronts when I hit 40%. Original brakes from when it was new, is that normal to go that long on the original brakes?
I had a tahoe that went 100k on factory brakes. that is not that common anymore. My 21 trailboss was squealing at 48k but the indicator said I had plenty of life left and the pads passed inspection.
You can wait until your service brake lights come on. I'm just changing mine for the first time at 132k miles and my rear rotors look newish with even wear on pads all the way around. Wow, just wow
I just did my rear yesterday on my 2021 silverado and had a hell of a time getting the piston to go back in. I had to go buy the little cube thing. My sensor broke and my pads and rotors didn't come with a new one and nobody has them in stock... Now I have like 3 lights on, on the dash, my pedal goes almost to the floor and it pulls really bad to the right. I find it hard to believe that the broken sensor could cause all my problems...
@@JuanCastillo-pz3gq I ended up getting a new sensor and had to have someone with a scan tool clear all the codes. Now everything is working like it should. I always take the reservoir cap off when doing any brake job. Easier to push the piston back and lessens the chance of blowing a brake line.
Hold the start button for a few seconds without touching the brake pedal and it will turn the truck on without starting. Then the process to put it in brake service mode is the same.
@@DIYAndrewFlockhart cool thanks! I just bought a 2021 custom i really am unsure about the motor coming from a 5.3 how do you like it so far? I have 21k already had to replace the evap purge pump but GM just extended warranty on that for 15 years 150k. I hate the electric parking brake and the electric tail gate..........
@@pork4U ouch..... lots of positives and negatives. my 2015 silverado 5.3Lt was a tank loved that truck but traded it at 111000k due to the shudder issues.
So those brake pad sensors are not reusable. Mine broke while removing it because it was ground down from rubbing the rotor at 20% life. Went to the dealer to get a new one and the parts guy laughed, apparently happens every day, he has a box of them by his desk. If you buy factory replacement pads they come with a new sensor in the box, but most aftermarket pads do not so you have to buy it separately for $25.
Me too, every one of them nearly stripped out due to the lock tight. I had to use a center punch to get them out. Shockingly poor quality bolt metal. Certainly not grade 8. If I had a do over I would have all new bolts on hand, and would get them from McMaster or someplace other than GM.
My 2023 Silverado has a push button start system. I want to take my calipers off to paint them but I can not get it into brake service mode. Is there a different procedure for the 2023 Silverado?
Put your foot on the brake first, push start button, wait 5-10 seconds for your truck to finish calibrating and stuff, and then hold the parking brake button until the service light on your tachometer starts flashing. If you take your foot off the brake at any point during that process it won’t work. Took a couple tries but it worked on mine
you have to hold the push start button in for 7 seconds ,,,,, foot off the brake ,,, then all of your acc will come on ,,, then step on brake pedal and push parking brake in at same time ,,,,, the brake light will flash then a wrench should appear ,,,,, thats service mode
HELP!!! I did this procedure on my 2021 Chevrolet silverado and now my dash says service ESC, service brake assist, brake system failure, service brake pad monitor. What did I do wrong? I followed every step and there was no indicators on the dash before the job.
Same thing happened to my 2023. I could not get it to go into brake service mode. Evidently 2023 models have a different procedure to put them in brake service mode. So I removed the electric parking brake motors. Then I turned the piston in to remove the caliper. That was a big mistake because I did everything to get the codes to clear. I ended up taking it to the dealer. The dealer told me that I damaged the calipers and that they needed to be replaced. $1400.00 parts and labor.
Good vid . Next time use a caliper piston tool kit and you have to turn the rear piston to go all the way in so you don’t have to take off the e brake module. But you still got it done so no worries
So.... hypothetically, if someone were to not know about the brake service mode before they started... got the brake and rotor replaced, couldn't get the caliper back on, did some research and discovered brake service mode, attempted to enable it with the caliper off thus fully extending the pison, and can't get it to go back in..... what should that person hypothetically do? 😅
i had the same problem with a lexus nxt200t. there's a video by DA TRUTH that shows a work around. basically, remove the electric parking brake, then use a torx bit to rotate the back of the piston clockwise until it stops, and then compressing the piston as usual. on the lexus i got a code when put back together, but after cycling through the brake service mode it went away. maybe this could help
That is not a hex bolt it takes a torx tip to get the rotor bolt out. Just got done on Saturday helping a friend with his 2020 silverado at 30000 miles. Can only conclude that the metal in the rotors is inferior metal. Maybe the new rotors are of better quality. Have done many disc brake jobs have never seen the rotors wear the way these did. Leaving grooves on the inside of the rotors.
The hex bolts that "keep the rotor in place" are junk and can be tossed at your earliest convenience. They claim that it won't let your rotor spin but that's what the studs are for. If your studs all snap, I can guarantee that little hex bolt is gonna do absolutely nothing. Wait till they get corroded and strip out or snap. You'll have fun with them. Done it many of times. Throw them away when you successfully remove them. And also throw out that brake pad guard as well. Nothing but junk. Makes a horrible screeching sound & doesn't protect anything!
Just my 2 cents but as an older backyard mech.,shouldn't we be looking at servicing/replacing something on our braking systems anyway.I'm not opposed to putting it to the "MAN" but sooner or later, more often sooner with chineseum they are feeding us we'll have to role up our sleeves a little more.Besides, think of it as pride of ownership. I'm also kinda curious as to why you didn't pull the caliper pins/bolts to clean and lubricate,they use to be a vital part of how well your pads travel in the slides? Good video though,and was still entertained.
For those setting errors after: Before turning the key back on, pull the negative battery cable and pump the brakes several times until they firm up. Then, reconnect the battery, start the vehicle and apply then release the park brake. If all goes well, this should not cause any error codes.
You missed the most important part ...you always check if the caliper pins are free so that the caliper can float / self center itself.
Agreed - I am in the middle of the job and one pin was completely locked up and needed to be replaced. The stuck pin was the reason the inner pad was shot and the outer was still like new. 35k miles and needed new rotors as well.
@@AlphadogFJBthere are two pins that the caliper slides on and they have a tendency to stick so the pads drag on the rotor.
My thought exactly
Great video. It was very informative. I was able to get the brake calipers on and off without removing the electronic parking brakes. The bolts for the caliper brackets were super tight . My left inner pad was significantly more worn than the outer left pad and much more than the right pads. The factory rotors were disproportionally worn and pitted, especially on the insides. The new brakes feel great!
Bro same shit happen to me!!
I was fighting it at first, but then I noticed labeled on the back of my pads were "LH Outer, LH Inner, RH Outer, and RH Inner" once I put the right configuration in there it slipped right past. Those spring clips are a joke though.
nice job 👍 when removing the torx screw theres two perfectly good threaded bores that can be used as jack bolt bores to break that rotor free from the hub, no need for beating on it.
What thread size?
@@HALLSYTWO Did you figure out what size?
@@richdv6800 Nope - haven't done the job yet. If I figure it out I'll post
I believe T25
Literally never done any mechanical work in my life. This was so simple to follow along. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Every time i go down muddy roads, i have to get my rear brakes changed. I have a "TrailBoss" that can't seem to handle mudd. Second time in 40k im doing this. First time was at 8k.
Nice design Chevy 👌
I have 65k miles on my truck. I use it mostly for my work truck but on the weekends it's the families fishing spot finder in the deep woods! Mines just the LT and it's lasted this long with still no problems at all. Rotors and pads still work and look great!
Excellent video and thank you so much. I was able to put the caliper back on the bracket without removing the electronic emergency brake device. I just squeezed the piston all the way back and then I was able to get it back on by sliding the top part on first and then putting the bottom part over the brake pads last. Hard to describe, but I hope that makes sense.
My 1st time doing brakes on a newer vehicle. This video was very helpful. I did not have to remove the park brake motor, it was just a matter of simply doing a light twist and it came out, make sure the caliper piston in fully compressed and it will twist back it fairly easily. Thankfully on mine rotors were good, monitor show 17% life at 50k miles, but when I removed the pads they were closer to 50% life left still.
Did you ever service your brakes? Could have been sticky slider pins causing the issue
Thanks for the great video. I had this on my phone last night in the garage and finished up the job today. Being thorough while also getting right to the point can be difficult, but you nailed it. Cheers 🍻
Great video. I used a bigger hammer. Much easier. I also compressed the caliper piston all the way and was able to fit it over the new pads without removing that motor off. What wasted most of my time was the torx guide screws from the rotor to the hub. Both side were seized. Both I had to drill out. I installed the rotor without it. Wjthout this video, I would get stuck on the sensore plugs for sure. Thanks!
Yea, dont need the torx screws to hold the rotor on, lug nuts do that
Good video but why didn't you make sure to lube the pins for the caliper?
Thanks for the awesome tutorial! Couldn't have shown how to do it any better. No extra talk just straight to the point.
This is a great tutorial for many. But I’d like to add, disconnecting the battery and pumping the brakes before reconnecting too. Because with these newer models, they will throw ESC and make your check engine light on if/when brake sensor is played with. Don’t panic, you can erase these codes if you have any code reader like cheap one from Walmart. 👍
Also, if anyone else sees this, i could not get my codes to clear with one of my code readers like normal, so what i had to do to finally get the codes cleared is to hold the start button without the brake to put the truck into ACC mode, then cleared the codes and all was good.
Video came at perfect time just finished doing my fronts following your video and was super easy to follow. Was hoping you had a video on the rear and posted 4 hours ago couldn’t had been a better time. Earned my sub thank you man
Do you need to pump the brakes up before taking it out of service mode?
I recommend removing the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the caliper pistons. Remember to replace the reservoir cap after both caliper pistons are compressed.
With that much difference in wear between the inner and outer pad I would say your problem is more likely due to the slide pins sticking than a warped rotor. Every time you replace brake pads you should pull the slide pins out, clean them, and coat them with fresh grease.
Thanks a lot! This video was massively helpful. I think the wear issue is a function of the electronic p-brake. I think it may fail to completely release in winter and cause the extra wear on the rotor. I'm replacing mine at 33K miles and only 2 Northern NY winters. I'd love to know if Silverado owners with the conventional p-brakes have the same problem.
I think you're probably correct, as I found the electronic brake side was much worse than the other side, definitely will be changing them more often moving forward.
dealer said I went 4x4ing too much, even on the brand new truck, I do a lot of gravel but dam that side wears fast. usually every 8 months I need new brakes. Such a shame.
Question:
Can I do the rear brakepads with the truck running, instead od putting it on service mode?
that way the EPB wont be ON
@@RulisGarage I wouldn't. It's easy enough to put them into service mode. I'm 74 and I figured it out...after watching the video. You young guys shouldn't have amy problem. 👍
Same here I always had more wear in the front but this week my brake started to make noise from the back and now they are 57% in the front and 57% in the rear...the truck have 50 000km ....very disappointed both side in the rear make noise and seems to have make small groove on the rotor. Gonna have to change them already...🎉
What torque did you tighten the caliper mounting bolts and the caliper bolts to?
Do you need to leave the key in the on position when you do this or can you shut it off while you do the work?
You can shut the truck off while it’s in brake service mode and it’ll stay in service mode!
Where did you order your break pad and rotor kit
My rear pads and discs need replacement after only 29,000Kms. Fronts are in great shape. I have never heard of or seen the need to replace the rear before the fronts and certainly not at such low Kms. PS that screw that holds the disk is a torx not a hex.
Same here went to the dealership and lost it on them 30k and brakes are finished is just crazy! cheap parts on the chevrolets now…
It’s because they changed the way the brakes are applied.. use to be 60 in front and 40 in back but they made it so every brake pad gets the same amount of pressure at the same time so apply evenly. They were to stupid to beef up the rear end brakes when coming up with the design
..man me too. 29 k here. Junk rear brakes.
My rears are junk at 35k. Fronts are still great. At about 19k I had shaking really bad and all the rotors were warped. We turned the rotors then and now have to replace rears. Dealer told me this was common now that they are replacing more and more between 30k and 40k.
Need to put grease between the slide clips and the caliper bracket too. Also the issue was not a warped rotor. That caliper was not releasing causing the back pad to stick. That’s why the inner pad was down to metal and the outer one was still like new.
yup he didnt even check the caliper slide pins ,,,,,, and didnt put grease under the clips thats were the rust starts that inner pad was stuck ,,,,,,, he def cut out alot because i just did that job on my 2019 and it sucked ,,,,, none of these helped
So did you leave the key on or can you turn it off?
Both my Torx blots stripped and I had to drill them out so I could remove the rotors... you got lucky with yours
Your video was super helpful for me, working on my 2020 Silverado. However, when I started the truck back up I received 7 errors saying that I had brake system failure along with many other errors. Have you encountered anything like this? Thank you.
How do you reset break pad life after
Does this same brake service mode work with the 2500 as well? Thanks in advance
Great video! This is super helpful and now my reference for my truck.
Will doing brakes on a ‘21 gmc sierra be relatively the same? 35k and rear brakes are shot…front are fine
Does this video also apply to a 2022 Chevy Blazer RS?
Why did you not lube up slide pins..
You should grease up the caliper pins as well. That could be the reason why only the back pad is worn.
Awesome video. Love how you walked through the whole process. A bit confused at the beginning you were talking about some kind of “proeces”? Not sure. 😂 JK. There was a TH-cam that talked about the park brake motor receding by itself? I think the guys TH-cam was just Chad. Wonder if this would prevent removing the park brake motor?
I just changed mine and did it exactly the way you did it (thanks a ton btw) but when I was done, it said new pads detected yes or no. I selected yes but now it doesnt show the brake pad life and I am getting a service brake pad monitor pop up 9:50
I would say you broke, or installed the pad wear sensor incorrectly.
Great Video Andrew, learned a a lot from the “replacing the front brakes video” so a comment and a question. I found that when disconnecting the sensor cable if you press down on the white tab that you push up it releases the cable much easier. Question, I have the same issue with my 2019 rear brakes wearing out the inside pad before the outside pad. Any comment on that as a preventative measure or is it just less than desirable engineering? 😮
clean and lub the caliper pins.
Is there brake wear sensors on all 4 corners?
No
I am at 107k and the rear brakes need replacing the fronts still got 32% so today I am changing the rear Pads, it seems that the fronts will need a regrinds on the rotors as it shakes when applying the brakes so will get that done as well
put front and rear rotors on it
Good, clear video! Did you not re-apply thread lock and torque the bolts?
Have a 2020 LT Trail boss, does the rear have 2 sensors or is it like the fronts with only 1 sensor on the driver side
Just 1 sensor on the driver side!
Do you have to keep the key on during the entire procedure or will the truck remember that it's in service mode if you turn the key off? I'm facing having to replace all four rotors and pads after only 15,000 miles> I haven't seen brakes this cheap on a car since my old Toyota back in the 70's.
I'm in the middle of a customer service complaint for the same thing, same mileage. The rotors are garbage. I won't give up, this is a warranty issue.
@@tonys1203 Good luck. My warranty is expired by almost a year so I’m screwed. Luckily I’m a retired mechanic, so I’ll order out rotors and pads and deal with my disappointment. For the most part this is the first issue I’ve had, so knock on wood, I’ve heard horror stories from other owners.
I think there’s gonna be a recall here soon because a lot of brakes aren’t wearing even.
@@Back_door_bandit_98 something isn’t right when your outer pad looks new, the inner pad is worn to the metal and the rotors have more craters than the moon.
@@gitchegumee They replaced my rotors under warranty today. My pads actually weren't bad and were reused. Everything else seems fine.
On the money!
Great information, thank you
What size of the socket for the brake caliper is? 3/4 like in front?
Do you do the same thing on a 2024 GMC 2500 hd Sierra , I want to put on a heavy duty brake pad for tow Power Stoke Pads .. Thanks and a very good video!!!! 😊
What size is the hex screw for the rotor and what size is the screw behind the rotor holding it in place and the size for the brake caliper?
It's a T30 torque bit
Thanks for the a video. Awesome explanation!!
Question: why are you using brake cleaner to remove the anti rust coat? Isn’t the anti rust coating a good thing?
good question! I believe this is because you don't want any coating between the rotor and the pads, it could affect your braking. the coating is cosmoline that they apply at the factory to keep it from rusting during shipping and storage, once you get the rotor on the car the pads will scrub off any rust that builds up
Did you have any issues with diagnostic codes popping up after you were done?
I had major issues after. Sprongy brake pedal no stopping power and several fault lights. As soon as i used my scan tool to clear the codes everything worked perfectly.
No issues whatsoever! Hopefully yours won't either!
@@DIYAndrewFlockhart Same! thanks for the video
Way easier to clean around gray push pin, then use needle nose pliers to pinch the release and pull out old sensor.
Do you recommend putting new sensors too?
New sensor wires should come with the pads.
Great video mine is close to needing rears dealer quote was 600bucks....no thanks
Thank you for this i liked and subscribed
Once it’s in brake service mode that flashing light, can I turn the vehicle off or do I have to leave it on so I can work on the brakes?
Turn the check off
Excwllent vidwo, very clear. Thanks!
Hi everyone, what pads brand you got? And from where you order it?
Do you have to put it in service mode when replacing the front brakes or only when you change the rear breaks ?
My understanding is it's only the rear, as that's where your parking brake is. But it still won't hurt to put it in park service mode when doing the front, only takes 30 seconds!
Only needed when servicing the rear brakes. Service mode releases the electric parking brake.
@@jlboers i have a 2020 Chevy silverado 3500 ltz 4x4. Try to put in service mode the wrench flashes but it doesnt stay on with like this video. Is there any other way to change the rear brake without the brake service mode?
You can put the truck in brake service mode. There’s videos on it.
I spent about an hour trying to get my 22 2500 at4 in the service mode and it will not work. i dont know why.
Gmc told me my rear brakes cannot be done without a computer program is this true
my husband's 2020 gmc ,did the whole step by step for parking brake no luck with release icon?????? help
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Could not get in to brake service mode I have push button start not sure if that makes a difference
Hold your start key until everything lights up, and then it will let you! We just did my husbands and his is push botton too
This helped, but as soon as I take my foot and finger off after holding the flashing brake service mode disappears…
I have a 2020 silverado push start button. Would it be the same process to get the truck in service mode
Yes. I have a 2020 LT trailboss
Hold the start button for a few seconds without touching the brake pedal and it will turn the truck on without starting. Then the process to put it in brake service mode is the same.
Less than 31K on my 2021 and rear brakes are metal on metal. Not at all impressed with this new design
Thats the driver hoss. My 2019 has 79k and im now needing pads.
@@colinbergeson2239 “Hoss” there are multiple other people on here complaining of the same issue, one even at 15k miles. It’s GMs junk brakes not the driver.
This is my second time doing my brakes at 65k! Always the driver inside rear all pads are still looking fresh
I went 86K on my 2015 before needing any brake work
Mine has 55k and I’m running 22% of front and 53% back
Light braking helps use the rear rather than the front. If you brake hard your front wear out quicker
What if I have a push to start instead of the key to turn the truck to on?
Press and hold the Start button without your foot on the brake, it will turn on after about 10 seconds
Good video for the information it gives.
Silicone is for your rubber parts like the boots that go over the bolts. You should be using the Red threadlock but blue will do good too. Get copper antiseize opposed to usung the cheap silver crap the brake kits come with. Always clean the piston before depressing back into place. Dont spray eith brake cleaner, instead soak a rag or towel with brake clearner and wipe it clean then push it back in. Dont use a screw driver, use an old brake pad to push on the piston. Always replace the sensor, never reuse it.
Just an FYI. If you pull out the top caliper slide you don’t have to remove the ebrake
Am I the only one getting squeamish over him using jack stands on gravel? A small 2x2 piece of plywood on each jackstand would be more stable. Just saying
Don't be scared.
Don't be scared.
You are the only one.
Dealer told me that they usually replace thr calipers when replacing brakes. Is this standard? I only have 70k miles. Thinking its just a way for them to charge me more.
That alone is a scam, replacing calipers with brakes? The calipers itself can last up to 100k and “brakes and rotors” definitely wear faster than the caliper. Now were they talking about brakes and rotors? That I can see being together, but it all depends on your wallet. Together is “recommended “ world wide but not mandatory.
I did all this step by step but at the end I had ever code known to mankind pop up… any advice?
Got 94K on my AT4 and I’m at 50% in the front and 75% in the rear. Figured I’d change out the fronts when I hit 40%. Original brakes from when it was new, is that normal to go that long on the original brakes?
I had a tahoe that went 100k on factory brakes. that is not that common anymore. My 21 trailboss was squealing at 48k but the indicator said I had plenty of life left and the pads passed inspection.
Sounds like you're all commute miles and not towing anything.
You can wait until your service brake lights come on. I'm just changing mine for the first time at 132k miles and my rear rotors look newish with even wear on pads all the way around. Wow, just wow
Thanks man!
I just did my rear yesterday on my 2021 silverado and had a hell of a time getting the piston to go back in. I had to go buy the little cube thing. My sensor broke and my pads and rotors didn't come with a new one and nobody has them in stock... Now I have like 3 lights on, on the dash, my pedal goes almost to the floor and it pulls really bad to the right. I find it hard to believe that the broken sensor could cause all my problems...
I just did mine and leaked all the brake fluid out of the reservoir
@@JuanCastillo-pz3gq I ended up getting a new sensor and had to have someone with a scan tool clear all the codes. Now everything is working like it should. I always take the reservoir cap off when doing any brake job. Easier to push the piston back and lessens the chance of blowing a brake line.
What about the reset for % of brakes
Has anyone had their rear rotors checked to see if they can be turned?
He never checked slide pins usually when one pad wears quicker than other its because slide pins are seized up
How do you do it with push button to start?
i found on my 2020 with push button I had to start the motor,instead of acc,and then do same sequence he did with button and brake pedal
Keep your foot off the brake, and hold the push to start button until it goes in accessory mode
How do you put a 2020 with push start into service mode?
Hold the start button for a few seconds without touching the brake pedal and it will turn the truck on without starting. Then the process to put it in brake service mode is the same.
@@RulisGaragethank you
Do you have to keep the ignition on while it is in brake service mode?
Nope! You can take the key out and it will stay in brake service mode the whole time!
@@DIYAndrewFlockhart cool thanks! I just bought a 2021 custom i really am unsure about the motor coming from a 5.3 how do you like it so far? I have 21k already had to replace the evap purge pump but GM just extended warranty on that for 15 years 150k. I hate the electric parking brake and the electric tail gate..........
@muirg01 At just about 8,000 miles my 21 Silverado RST 1500 5.3 dropped a lifter and bent a pushrod like it was made out of a empty beer can.
@@pork4U ouch..... lots of positives and negatives. my 2015 silverado 5.3Lt was a tank loved that truck but traded it at 111000k due to the shudder issues.
theres no key on 2019 and up
So those brake pad sensors are not reusable. Mine broke while removing it because it was ground down from rubbing the rotor at 20% life. Went to the dealer to get a new one and the parts guy laughed, apparently happens every day, he has a box of them by his desk. If you buy factory replacement pads they come with a new sensor in the box, but most aftermarket pads do not so you have to buy it separately for $25.
what break kit did you get for your truck? Awesome video.
I had a hard time with my 2010 Silverado rotors coming off. i found bolts that fit in the hex bolt holes. ran them in and they came right off.
Me too, every one of them nearly stripped out due to the lock tight. I had to use a center punch to get them out. Shockingly poor quality bolt metal. Certainly not grade 8. If I had a do over I would have all new bolts on hand, and would get them from McMaster or someplace other than GM.
Should have made sure the slides moved in and out freely, if they didn’t,clean them and lube them. That’s probably the cause of the pads wearing out.
My 2023 Silverado has a push button start system. I want to take my calipers off to paint them but I can not get it into brake service mode. Is there a different procedure for the 2023 Silverado?
Start your truck and then press the brake and parking brake button for 10 to 15 seconds
Yes I tried that and I still could not get my 2023 Silverado to go into brake service mode.
Put your foot on the brake first, push start button, wait 5-10 seconds for your truck to finish calibrating and stuff, and then hold the parking brake button until the service light on your tachometer starts flashing. If you take your foot off the brake at any point during that process it won’t work. Took a couple tries but it worked on mine
@@GALLAMORE14141 Thanks for that info because I tried several combinations of the procedure and could not get it to go into brake service mode.
you have to hold the push start button in for 7 seconds ,,,,, foot off the brake ,,, then all of your acc will come on ,,, then step on brake pedal and push parking brake in at same time ,,,,, the brake light will flash then a wrench should appear ,,,,, thats service mode
HELP!!! I did this procedure on my 2021 Chevrolet silverado and now my dash says service ESC, service brake assist, brake system failure, service brake pad monitor. What did I do wrong? I followed every step and there was no indicators on the dash before the job.
How is your truck now? Did you fixed?
If the caliber comes off with that break motor on it then why would it have to be removed to get it back over the brakes 🤔
What if I have a push start?
Press and hold the push button( maybe 10 seconds), should be the same steps
I change the pads and when I put everything back together the break light came on and now I can't drive over 43 mp
Same thing happened to my 2023. I could not get it to go into brake service mode. Evidently 2023 models have a different procedure to put them in brake service mode. So I removed the electric parking brake motors. Then I turned the piston in to remove the caliper. That was a big mistake because I did everything to get the codes to clear. I ended up taking it to the dealer.
The dealer told me that I damaged the calipers and that they needed to be replaced. $1400.00 parts and labor.
great video.
Why size socket
90k a need new rear pads. Quoted $700+ bc "need to replace pad monitor sensor" ...WHAT??
ILL do it myself thank you
So you leave the key in the on position during the entire job?
Good vid . Next time use a caliper piston tool kit and you have to turn the rear piston to go all the way in so you don’t have to take off the e brake module. But you still got it done so no worries
brake caliper tool did shit you have to get that in service brake mode if you cant then take motor off and turn Allen bolt on the inside
So.... hypothetically, if someone were to not know about the brake service mode before they started... got the brake and rotor replaced, couldn't get the caliper back on, did some research and discovered brake service mode, attempted to enable it with the caliper off thus fully extending the pison, and can't get it to go back in..... what should that person hypothetically do? 😅
i had the same problem with a lexus nxt200t. there's a video by DA TRUTH that shows a work around. basically, remove the electric parking brake, then use a torx bit to rotate the back of the piston clockwise until it stops, and then compressing the piston as usual. on the lexus i got a code when put back together, but after cycling through the brake service mode it went away. maybe this could help
That is not a hex bolt it takes a torx tip to get the rotor bolt out. Just got done on Saturday helping a friend with his 2020 silverado at 30000 miles. Can only conclude that the metal in the rotors is inferior metal. Maybe the new rotors are of better quality. Have done many disc brake jobs have never seen the rotors wear the way these did. Leaving grooves on the inside of the rotors.
2021 sierra, 70 000kms... rear brakes are toast
bro just saved me $900
The hex bolts that "keep the rotor in place" are junk and can be tossed at your earliest convenience. They claim that it won't let your rotor spin but that's what the studs are for. If your studs all snap, I can guarantee that little hex bolt is gonna do absolutely nothing. Wait till they get corroded and strip out or snap. You'll have fun with them. Done it many of times. Throw them away when you successfully remove them. And also throw out that brake pad guard as well. Nothing but junk. Makes a horrible screeching sound & doesn't protect anything!
that hex bolt doesn't just come right out lol.. fack
Especially in the salt belt
Just my 2 cents but as an older backyard mech.,shouldn't we be looking at servicing/replacing something on our braking systems anyway.I'm not opposed to putting it to the "MAN" but sooner or later, more often sooner with chineseum they are feeding us we'll have to role up our sleeves a little more.Besides, think of it as pride of ownership. I'm also kinda curious as to why you didn't pull the caliper pins/bolts to clean and lubricate,they use to be a vital part of how well your pads travel in the slides? Good video though,and was still entertained.