In years to come, I think most will look back on these uploads and say "Yeah, Greg Virgoe, he is the Sir David Attenborough of the camper build videos". Keep them coming Greg!
Attention to detail, careful methodical craftsmanship, thoughtful practical planing and design, clear explanatory narration and excellent audio and video production. I have no intention to build a van but after just the first video I watched by accident I subscribed, set an alert and will watch every video in this series. You are raising the DIY video bar to an entirely new level, keep up the great work!
What a fantastic comment, thank you so much for those kind words and I'm pleased you found it interesting enough to want to stay. You never know there may be some nuggets of information in my theory that you can apply to other things. If nothing else please enjoy the process and the end result. My earlier videos are more woodworking and workshop related. Just out of curiosity what genre of video do you normally watch?
I simply can't thank you enough Gregg! There are so many decent van build videos out there, but your are so different and on a truly other level. Rather than just "this is how we did it" watching your videos are like a university education in fundamental technique and real foundational knowledge (that even as a handy person that's done construction work I can carry on into projects that have nothing to do with the van). For a lot of things there are 20 people doing it 20 ways, and it's more like we just messed around and this sorta worked. I have confidence that you are truly showing the RIGHT way, that will be the most professional, durable and in some cases safest. Such real attention to detail from an obviously experienced engineer and craftsmen! Thanks for everything!
hi Greg, its Dawn we met at 'Ash Pollard's Lost in Europe' meet up; well after your amazing Van Tour (thank you!! much appreciated especially whilst everyone was waiting to leave!!!) I am finding all the videos amazingly helpful (pressed likes & subscribed :-) - ordered 3 of your linked products already & just invested in a small router able to be handled by a lady :-) ..popping to Moorland today actually to just see all the stuff in person (& whilst there pick up the cutting tool) for me, its the inset trim I will use needing the router - thought both examples (which were all perfectly done on your van!) when I saw them were great & was interesting & helpful to see the both both on your van & in the video; for me (T5 LWB) feel the first push-in trim will be hard wearing for heavy use in my van (dogs, tools sometimes, oversized luggage a lot) and could be replaced easily at a later stage if damaged so i'll be going for that one *THANK YOU for the videos :-)*
I've used thousand of yards of the plastic edging as well as the iron-on stuff (40 years ago). For durability I'd always go with the plastic. Only we used to glue it on and the slot was small for a tighter grip, trim the plastic edge the same way as you did with the iron-on too, otherwise it will be dragged off in time.Good calm instruction though!
There isn’t any video I watched without pushing like and share it with my friends, that’s the less I can do , thank you again for the great work, as for the edge trim I prefer the first one for two reasons , time and recycling reason
Hi Greg cracking set of videos.. I worked in the kitchen manufacturing industry for over 30 years and although the thinner edge was applied on an edge banding machine (due to mass production of panels), the principal is the same as you have demonstrated.. As long as your diligent with the process you will achieve a "Professional" finish.. Using a file the same way you use a chisel, is also another method of trimming off the excess material.. Water left on any jointed/laminated surface will eventually penetrate.. In my experience heat is the greatest enemy (near ovens etc) it can potentially reactivate the glue.. I think the amazing job you did with the insulation and vapour barrier will take care of any potential moisture issues raised in some of the other comments ;) There are also small desk top jigs which incorporate a heat gun, straight edge fence and roller to aid in the application of the pre-glued edging.. Keep up the great work.... Ian
I would not have thought much of the iron on trim until I saw your finished sample. I'm thoroughly impressed with it I must say. It gives the board a made to order professional finish, the final product will be stunning.
Hi Greg thanks for the video. I wonder, can you describe your workbench for me. Where did you get it. And what is the clamp you are using, how exactly does it work?
HI, it's an assembly table or torsion box that I made myself from a single 8x4 sheet of birch plywood. I have a video showing you how th-cam.com/video/6I3wM6-M6S4/w-d-xo.html and the Bessey clamps can be found from a link in that video description. Thanks for watching
Thanks Greg, that's just saved me hours of effort trying to find a suitable supplier! I think I'd want to see the edge trims in real life to choose between them though so I can't offer a verdict on that.
Hi John Thanks for another superbly presented video. We used this product in a hi roof Vivaro conversion. At that time Morland provided two different thicknesses of veneer. We found the thinner veneer did puncture on fairly low impact. We also used a grey veneer but found it very dark and gloomy inside despite large side window & rooflight and LED lighting. Next conversion will also be a LWB Sprinter but using the thicker veneer in a lighter shade. I agree that a combo of the trims is best and a bit of glue stops it popping out and shrinking back over time.
Hi Greg very good videos which have started me off building a van myself. How many boards did you order from Moreland to complete your van? A tip for tilting solar panels is using UPVC window hinges that's used for windows that push out and up. They do work I used them on 4 panels on a Hobby 600 when touring Europe
Interesting video. Regarding that I used to draw and help build custom office/workspace furniture I would recommend using both types of trimming. We used the slot type trim for workspaces and panels that had to be able to withstand more forceful contacts with materials and equipment. The other trim type was used on normal office and kitchen cabinets, drawers and panels. This trim looked also better as it was cut to fit perfectly.
Hi Greg, Just came across your campervan furniture builds. Really excellent tips etc. I'm starting a build soon on my vw transporter. I will be purchasing a webasto top loading fridge. Have you fitted one these before. I'm after any advice on this. Thanks Amin
Not that style but the best advice I can give you about fridges is make sure you give plenty of ventilation to the condenser coil (hot bit at the back) if you can get the heat away it will use much less electric 👍🏼🤩
Watched lots of other videos, but still think Greg Virgoe..is the best to learn from.. such a relaxed manner and great for explaining how its done properly..regards the trim i think I would chose the lighter grain next to the one you chose, but would make my T trim Silver..thanks again for great advice.
Hi Greg great series. In one of your videos I saw a cutting plan you had drawn in sketch up for the furniture board. I've tried to find it but can't. It would be really handy as a guide to quantity. Which episode was it please
Hi Greg ,,can you advise best paint or prep needed to paint over motor home walls with the 6mm thin patterned slightly boarding with the outer layer is like a thin plastic /film material for easy cleaning ,it's often used in coach caravans or motor homes any ideas best paint etc ?
I'm glad you demonstrated the difference between these two. I'm leaning towards the iron-on trim as I've seen it used in many other woodworking videos. But I'm glad I understand how to use the PVC type trim in case I ever want to use that instead. :-)
Hi, Greg, could you confirm the colour of your wall boards and is it lightweight ply with high gloss double sided? I`m having trouble trying to find it.
Greg..great videos..many thanks....I have a lot of experience with the iron on...in areas of any humidity or heat movement/changes(ie the whole van!!) it will start to come unstuck ,split from the edges etc...i would go with the t fit plastic and add glue to this to give long term durability....
Hi Greg, Hope you are well. We have a weight issue with our van build (still in progress) and even though we have not used any specifically heavy items, it has all added up to a near the Gross van limit of 3500kg. As you used 15mm furniture ply, whereas we are currently using 9mm ply and sofwood frames and intend to carpet line the ply, I would be very interested to know what your final van weight was for the complete build. Any tips on how to keep the build weight down, especially with regard to timber/ply use? Thanks
Greg. I have just found your series of videos. I think they are truly superb. I love your straighforward, informed and informative style. In the future I intend to take on a van conversion, so your videos are research for that. I'm sure, when it comes to it, they will be enormously helpful to me. I like the way you get straight to it with careful explnations, without lots of repetition. If we viewers miss something, we can just rewind. Thanks again. Richard
Hi Greg your videos are the best explained and I don't think I would tackle a project like this can you give me a idea how many ceiling and furniture board you ordered from moorland thanks
I used exactly 7 furniture boards which there was little waste from and four ceiling boards because I wanted only three widthways joins along the roof beams. Was a bit of waste on the ceiling boards but not that expensive. If you PM me I can send you a pdf cutting plan 👍🏼😊
Thanks Greg, another great and informative video. I too am looking forward to you building the cabinets. My preference would be the iron on finish. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Greg. Really enjoying the vids and products. Especially the electrical fittings, so far. Im voting for the iron on edge tape. It can be brittle but easy to replace.
Ed Wild Another nice one Greg. Although the iron-on trim looks better initially, I wonder how long it would be before it started to lift? The advantage of the pvc is that it can be glued as well, so that you are not relying solely on friction to hold the strip in place. One further point; There would be no need to radius the corners of the doors etc, -it would not be difficult to mitre them instead. Weight difference between the two types of edging is negligible.
Hello Ed, nice to hear from you. I found out the professionals glue on the edge banding and don't iron it on. I'm totally with you on glueing the T trim into the grooves, however I'm not sure how easy it would be to get clean looking mitres with it? I'll try it. I've not seen that done before and it makes me wonder is there a reason for that. Best wishes
if you use t strip seal the edges of ply first to stop water getting in and swelling the ply. silicone is good as a joiner i use it on worktop sink cutouts, smooth on with a finger and wipe of edges. use window scraper with stanley knife blade, keep it flat on the board at 45' (dull the blade and take off the sharp points ) so it wont scratch the surface this is a fast way to trim iron on edging tape. love the videos
I think the iron on trim looks better and you can have square edges witch looks so much better, modern, fancier than the rounded ones, can wait for the cabinets being built and finished!! Great job!
Excellent video Mate! I think I'm going to enjoy following your van build. I have a beautiful westfalia and the trim shrunk over the years, have you considered this? While it still looks amazing after 30 plus years the one thing that takes away is the end gaps on the ply ends. Its some sort of plastic and installed in a slot like you , so elegantly demonstrated. I'm wondering if the properly glued pvc trim would be better for shrinkage and temperature expansion differentials of the materials.
Great video Greg, are the ply sheets sealed or impregnated with a resin or waterproof product at all to prevent liquids soaking into the edges? It looks like very good quality material and being lightweight will make a huge difference
Hi Greg, do Morland still do the furniture board you used? I love it, but it looks really grey in your videos and the only Zebranos I can find on the Morland site seem to have a lot of brown in, which I'm not so keen on. It's driving me mad!
Yes, I'm pretty sure the high gloss boards are all made to order as we did wait a couple weeks to fulfil the order. I will put here the exact Morland Product code from my invoice. Best advise is to phone and speak to sales. MOR305788 2500x1220x15 LW Ply Altofina Zebrano 003 HPL 2/S **70% PEFC
Another very informative video, thanks for sharing. My experience with the iron on trim is that the glue wears off over time. Especially in areas that are more likely to get in contact with water, or that needs proper cleaning now and then. Like in the kitchen area I would choose the pvc trim. Just my 2 cents.
Hi Greg, just found your FANTASTIC channel today. Watched your van tour (saw you on a Gadget John episode) and really liked your drinking water solution. I would like to add the mod to my caravan, but wonder if the light weight counter tops will hold a screw. Do you know if the Morland board is used for caravan work tops, and if so do you have an opinion as to its suitability to retain small screws? Finally, your van looks fantastic, definitely as good as, if not better than produced by the industry. Also your instructional videos are outstanding. Haven’t seen a better instructional video on any subject. Many a Thanks John
Thank you very much that's very kind of you to say so, the Morland furniture board is very good quality and as it has multiple layers (7) plus laminate is has great screw retention properties and cuts really cleanly.
As always inspiring Greg! I would definitely go for the iron-on trim. It is far more modern, and I used it myself in our closet in the bedroom. Very easy to work with. I suppose you can get them in the same colour as the finer?
Hello Henrik, the edgebanding does come in a vast range of colours and wood effects. Most of the time the doors and drawer front edges will not be seen, only when open. So having a neutral colour is not a problem. The T Trim comes in fewer colour options. The zebrano has black in it and I can get both the trims in black. Good to hear that you had some success with it.
Another great and very informative video Greg, i'm currently self building a VW Crafter LWB same as your Sprinter and i'm intreaged as to how you do the bed area! I'm trying to fit in my CBR 600 in with my mountain bikes but the bed height will be an issue as i'm a big fella.
The bed frames were welded up last week and ready to be installed. I’ve got a couple of major videos to release in the next week all to do with the garage and bed arrangements Really excited about it. 😀
There is a little difference, but when you take into account these have more plays and a laminate finish on both sides the core is lighter and stronger for screws etc
Hi Greg, many thanks for your video... been missing your videos... just to let you know, my project is underway as well.... this is a comment before seeing your video... reverting after seeing your video, but it goes without saying, it must be a fab video as always.... thank you in advance... cheers
Hi Greg, I like the rounded edge trim but I have found where its been used on my caravan and previous caravan , it does tend to come out in places and requires a tap to replace it. I wonder if temp variations in the van is the cause? I also have found the same as Jessie Parris re constriction. The Iron on edging also looks OK so, looking forward to future vlogs and how your van will look.
You may be right Brian, it could be due to expansion. I’m wondering if a bit of glue in the groove may be the answer. I’ll get some advice from the manufacturers.
Hi Greg. Really enjoying these videos as we're doing our own build on a Relay. One thing (not sure if it's been mentioned in a previous comment) as a kitchen fitter I'd always use a sheet of brown paper between the iron and the iron-on edging to prevent scorching...especially on light colours or gloss. .always look forward to the next video!!
Hi Greg great video I like the iron on edging do you think you could do a cubbard door with square corners in one continuse piece when hot or 4 single piece's cheers
Great video, and very timely for me - Do you think you would be able to make a mitred corner with the PVC trim? Or get the PVC trim to follow a tight (maybe 5mm) radius corner by cutting away the 'tongue'? I think Morland do a 2-3mm thick ABS edging which looks better, but you need a banding machine to apply it as far as I know. Keep up the good work.
Hi. There is an alternative called a radius corner , it's purpose made for finishing edges or producing sleek looking corners , they come in aluminium and are also available in some of the same finishes of lightweight board.
Hi, thanks for these videos they are absolutely fantastic! Quick question about the workbench and clamp you use in your workshop, can you tell me the details of them please? Thanks
Hello Ian, the assembly table I made myself from birch plywood and I have two videos of this on my channel, here is the build video th-cam.com/video/6I3wM6-M6S4/w-d-xo.html. The ratchet clamps are made by Bessey and there is a link to these in that video description. I love those clamps they work so well and are really strong. Not cheap but very well made.
Thank you for showing us this factory material. So its a plywood with a laminated finish. Edge banding was beautifully done, nice to see how. Do they also make thinner plywood or real wood sheets which can be inserted into a slotted aluminum frame? In the US, a branded version of aluminum framing is called 80/20. It comes with slots or finished edges, your choice. You can attach wood sides to this. I want to find thinner sections of wood or plastic or other material that is moisture resistant, warp resistant, and strong that fits into the channels for a sturdy cabinet and easy assembly. Box stores like Home Depot only carry birch plywood which looks too homemade. I need a 1/4" thick option to birch plywood. Euro high gloss finish is very attractive. I think you picked a winner with that striping. Finished cabinets will be the envy of all.
Greg, great video as always! Would you say it's possible to use the T-shaped PVC edging on a rounded corner? Perhaps cutting away small pieces of the part that's pushed into the plywood to allow it to bend inwards. Of course it needs to be a larger bend around the corner, say a 50 mm radius bend. Thoughts?
Hello Kim, you are spot on. If you remove small V shapes out of the trim you can easily bend it around much tighter corners. I have not experimented myself yet but i would say you could get it down to much smaller than a 50mm radius. I would definitely take up the advice of many others by adding some glue to hold this in place.
I think the iron on trim not only looks better, it will weigh less. Downside though is that it won't protect the edge of the laminate on the ply from lifting (which I suspect could be an issue inside the van due to the humidity). I would use the PVC wherever there's a chance of it being knocked by clumsy van dwellers. I wouldn't be confident using a chisel to trim it though, I would be worried about marking the finish. Craft knife all the way for me, and probably a heat gun and roller to apply it. Another great video Greg. Keep it up.
You are dead right about the edges getting knocked and the PVC would stand up to more abuse. That's why I will use a combination of both finishes. Probably only use the iron on for doors and drawers. You could use a number of tools to trim the edgebanding it is very easy to cut. I have seen proper tools designed for this too. Thank you for your feedback.
Some more great information. It's exciting to see your van come together. Love the color of the laminate you've chosen, as well as the high gloss finish. Also your idea of combining the two different edge treatments in the fit out. By chance, is that iron on edging available without the pre-applied glue? I think if it is applied with spray-on contact it would be more durable, and less susceptible to failure due to excessive heat. As always, I'm looking forward to your next video. You are a great teacher, and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Btw, those are great samples and a fine catalog. I wonder what similar products are available here in Canada.
Hi Greg, out of curiosity how many furniture boards did you use? I’ve roughly calculated I’m going to need around 5 sheets, am I in the right ball park? Cheers
Hi. I personally would prefer the PVC trimming on all ends that are prone or visible or that usually see a lot of touching with hands. the glued on vernier is good for inserts, holes, drawers or stuff where the overhang of the PVC would be hindering.
another great video there Greg. loveing the detail your going too. im not a big fan of the iron on edging it tends to peel after a while. looking forward to your choice for the wall cladding and thanks for your efforts to share.
dont do facebook Greg, but my vote would be the iron on edge every time. In a previous life we used to make bespoke dental cabinetry with iron on edging to doors and drawers and after ironing, we used a hardwood block and sandpaper at 45 degrees to thin out the edging until it snapped and a finer grade to bevel the corner. Always sanding in towards the piece, as you did with the chisel. After requesting samples from Morlands, we received only one sheet of veneer and a photo of our second choice. You probably picked up the samples during your visit? We're being deluged by snow right now and our car is looking like a large white van at the moment. Much too cold to be thinking about anything outside or in a workshop. Brave man with short sleeves! Best wishes R & T
Thanks for the vote guys, we too have had lots of snow here. I've got a deadline looming so there's no rest for the wicked I'm afraid. It was very cold in the garage workshop. Case of vanity over sanity 😂
Greg, I'm a carpenter & joiner working primarily on construction sites these days. I have a budget (and hopefully enough skills!) to convert a T6 to a high spec. My dream is sell it on for a profit then repeat until I leave the hamster wheel of site work behind. Do you think it's possible to go this route, please? BTW, I'm very impressed with your skills, you could easily have been an excellent carpenter!!!
Hello to quote Morland's website... Poplar plywood has a density of approximately 440 kg/m3, compared with around 600 kg/m3 for normal plywood, making it perfect as a weight saving option. The board Morland specify is 15mm nine ply whilst the industry norm is five or seven-ply on 15mm board. Every ply improves the screw retention properties of the board. Morland 15mm lightweight furniture ply is, therefore, both light and strong making it ideal for vehicle fit outs. Depending on the surface finish you choose, prices range from £48 unlaminated to £150 a sheet for top range.
Hi again Greg - and thanks again Sir - your videos are excellent and indeed you should receive a letter from her majesty pronto. I'm sure she will get the message, as I expect she too is watching them :) Anyway, I've seen some very interesting videos where they make cabinets using PU foam boards, and I've seen them fibreglassed as a complete unit which gives it exceptional strength, completely water proof and extremely light too. With some techniques using spay paint, quite arty effects are possible too and counter surfaces can withstand hot pots etc. Best thing is its easy to repair later, without the need to try and source the same materials and finishes. That is what I am thinking of using for my camper trailer. A lot more work, but in my application, much of the cabinet work will be directly exposed to nature - both heat and cold, wet and dry, so timber is out unless I choose to fibreglass that instead and hope I don't leave a spot exposed or accidentally crack the fibreglass. Food for thought for some of your viewers perhaps?
I have seen the same video, my only thoughts when I watched it was a lot of processes and work went into just once cabinet. Interesting ideas but I will be sticking to the wood. Thank for sharing your thoughts.
Thanks for all the research you do that benefits the rest of us. Cannot find a supplier of this material in the US, even though Moreland does have a US headquarters in Sarasota Florida. If you can ship a 4X8 panel 1500 miles I'm sure it would be very costly.
Hi Greg, I think your right to go for a combination of the two,pvc edging will be more durable but less practical for things like draw fronts etc. Iron on edging can look quite tatty after a relatively short time especially around steemy areas such as kettles.
Really enjoying your build Greg! I have been planning a build of my own to replace my 1990 Westfalia Atlantic Hightop when It becomes too difficult to maintain. I do have some input concerning your edging materials. As you probably know, Westfalia uses the T type of edge banding which is a great endorsement for the material, however it does have a problem of shrinking with age. This shrinkage has left several gaps of 1/2" to 1" that I've had to fill with pieces taken from a couple of areas that are out of sight. It has also caused problems with the track for the sliding bed sections in the hightop which required removal and re-installation to resolve. I would hope today's materials are a bit more stable but you might want to take that into consideration. Anyways, keep up the great work and I'll be waiting for your next episode.
Hi Greg, I've used iron-on wood veneer successfully on loudspeaker projects but there is no way I would use it in a van. I just know it would eventually peel away with the heat and humidity. I've also seen the plastic knock-on trim coming away, especially on inside curves. If you go plastic, would an additional adhesive be a wise precaution?
Maybe it's just me but putting plastic trim on wood just doesn't seem right. From someone who just loves wandering around our local timber yard, I would like to see a hard wood edging strip, say 3mm thick, to finish off the plywood edges. How you get around the curves would be another matter!
Yes Lee, here is the link for the 3mm Slot cuttign bit rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nkw%3Dt%2Btrim%2Brouter%2Bbit%2B3mm%26_sop%3D12
the iron on edge banding does not hold up well in hot environs. I live in Australia and have seen many motorhomes and Vans have the edge strip lift off due to the internal heat build up. So if you plan on spending much time in hot climates i would go with the trim.
Hi I work as an apprentice cabinet maker when I turn 40yr old and was taught to use the bastard file but I would love to know what the right tool is called please thanks
Another great instalment Greg...if it was down to me I’ll have the plastic "T" on all rub against edges and the iron on for door/drawer edges...you’ll be surprised at how much you need to protect those touchable areas....coming along nicely mate, good luck 👍🏼😊
Another great video and so well presented thank you, regarding opinion I feel the iron on edge may not have the longevity and be prone to chipping, although I feel it looks nicer. However I’m not sure I would want to round off all my edges.in these situations I always take the easy way out and let my other half decide, then it’s never the wrong decision.
happy wife, happy life? I personally think they're not happy unless they got something to moan about. That why the workshop is such a valuable bolt hole of dust and debris lol
On the lightweight version of the portable folding workbenches I build I use T molding to protect work surface edge from mild impact and scrapes. To keep the edges from lifting away if struck and to keep a gap from forming at the edge joins, at the ends of the T molding and especially where 2 edges meet I use a countersunk tiny flat head screw from the underside that goes right through the inserted part of the T and into the other side. I predrill and countersink at once with a custom made drill/countersink I cut on a deckel plus a pin-drill jig attached to a small cordless drill motor. Of course you don't need a custom cutter or a jig for small projects if you are careful just use a pin-drill vise by hand.
I've never seen that technique used but it sounds very interesting. You didn't say but reading in between the lines are you using a mitred corner on your T Trim? finishing with a square pointed corner. Do you have any images you could share greg@virgoe.com
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In years to come, I think most will look back on these uploads and say "Yeah, Greg Virgoe, he is the Sir David Attenborough of the camper build videos". Keep them coming Greg!
wow, should I look out for the letter from her majesty and day soon. :D
Fantastic feedback Rod, thank you very much for such kind words.
Rod Buchan so true. Best ive seen and ive watched a few as i will have a van/ small bus later in the year so im keen to learn
Very true. The more I watch this stuff, the more I like the way this is delivered.
Attention to detail, careful methodical craftsmanship, thoughtful practical planing and design, clear explanatory narration and excellent audio and video production. I have no intention to build a van but after just the first video I watched by accident I subscribed, set an alert and will watch every video in this series. You are raising the DIY video bar to an entirely new level, keep up the great work!
What a fantastic comment, thank you so much for those kind words and I'm pleased you found it interesting enough to want to stay. You never know there may be some nuggets of information in my theory that you can apply to other things. If nothing else please enjoy the process and the end result. My earlier videos are more woodworking and workshop related. Just out of curiosity what genre of video do you normally watch?
I simply can't thank you enough Gregg! There are so many decent van build videos out there, but your are so different and on a truly other level. Rather than just "this is how we did it" watching your videos are like a university education in fundamental technique and real foundational knowledge (that even as a handy person that's done construction work I can carry on into projects that have nothing to do with the van). For a lot of things there are 20 people doing it 20 ways, and it's more like we just messed around and this sorta worked. I have confidence that you are truly showing the RIGHT way, that will be the most professional, durable and in some cases safest. Such real attention to detail from an obviously experienced engineer and craftsmen! Thanks for everything!
hi Greg, its Dawn we met at 'Ash Pollard's Lost in Europe' meet up; well after your amazing Van Tour (thank you!! much appreciated especially whilst everyone was waiting to leave!!!) I am finding all the videos amazingly helpful (pressed likes & subscribed :-) - ordered 3 of your linked products already & just invested in a small router able to be handled by a lady :-) ..popping to Moorland today actually to just see all the stuff in person (& whilst there pick up the cutting tool) for me, its the inset trim I will use needing the router - thought both examples (which were all perfectly done on your van!) when I saw them were great & was interesting & helpful to see the both both on your van & in the video; for me (T5 LWB) feel the first push-in trim will be hard wearing for heavy use in my van (dogs, tools sometimes, oversized luggage a lot) and could be replaced easily at a later stage if damaged so i'll be going for that one *THANK YOU for the videos :-)*
You're making very professional videos, thank you for taking the time to do them.
Thank you Paul, glad you like them.
I've used thousand of yards of the plastic edging as well as the iron-on stuff (40 years ago). For durability I'd always go with the plastic. Only we used to glue it on and the slot was small for a tighter grip, trim the plastic edge the same way as you did with the iron-on too, otherwise it will be dragged off in time.Good calm instruction though!
There isn’t any video I watched without pushing like and share it with my friends, that’s the less I can do , thank you again for the great work, as for the edge trim I prefer the first one for two reasons , time and recycling reason
Hi Greg cracking set of videos..
I worked in the kitchen manufacturing industry for over 30 years and although the thinner edge was applied on an edge banding machine (due to mass production of panels), the principal is the same as you have demonstrated.. As long as your diligent with the process you will achieve a "Professional" finish.. Using a file the same way you use a chisel, is also another method of trimming off the excess material..
Water left on any jointed/laminated surface will eventually penetrate.. In my experience heat is the greatest enemy (near ovens etc) it can potentially reactivate the glue..
I think the amazing job you did with the insulation and vapour barrier will take care of any potential moisture issues raised in some of the other comments ;)
There are also small desk top jigs which incorporate a heat gun, straight edge fence and roller to aid in the application of the pre-glued edging..
Keep up the great work....
Ian
I would not have thought much of the iron on trim until I saw your finished sample. I'm thoroughly impressed with it I must say. It gives the board a made to order professional finish, the final product will be stunning.
I have a video coming out this week of the completed cupboard doors, they do look really good :D
I'm excited to watch it.
I like that 9 ply...hadn’t given these materials much thought before, but now I think I will look into it for some cabinet work. Thanks!
Most normal plys of this thickness are only 5 or 7 ply.
Having 9ply makes them stronger and have better screw retention while still being lightweight.
Hi Greg thanks for the video. I wonder, can you describe your workbench for me. Where did you get it. And what is the clamp you are using, how exactly does it work?
HI, it's an assembly table or torsion box that I made myself from a single 8x4 sheet of birch plywood. I have a video showing you how th-cam.com/video/6I3wM6-M6S4/w-d-xo.html and the Bessey clamps can be found from a link in that video description. Thanks for watching
@@GregVirgoe Thank you very much for the answer. I really enjoy your videos as I am trying to gather knowledge for my own coming conversion.
@@jannetimgren953 there are lots of useful videos here that can help you
Thanks Greg, that's just saved me hours of effort trying to find a suitable supplier! I think I'd want to see the edge trims in real life to choose between them though so I can't offer a verdict on that.
Hi John
Thanks for another superbly presented video. We used this product in a hi roof Vivaro conversion. At that time Morland provided two different thicknesses of veneer. We found the thinner veneer did puncture on fairly low impact. We also used a grey veneer but found it very dark and gloomy inside despite large side window & rooflight and LED lighting. Next conversion will also be a LWB Sprinter but using the thicker veneer in a lighter shade. I agree that a combo of the trims is best and a bit of glue stops it popping out and shrinking back over time.
John? Are you getting me confused with another famous Virgo? lol
Thanks for the useful feedback, cheers
Hi Greg very good videos which have started me off building a van myself. How many boards did you order from Moreland to complete your van? A tip for tilting solar panels is using UPVC window hinges that's used for windows that push out and up. They do work I used them on 4 panels on a Hobby 600 when touring Europe
Derek Barker we used 7 sheets in total for the build and great idea for the panels too 👍🏼😀
Derek Barker we used 7 sheets in total for the build and great idea for the panels too 👍🏼😀
Interesting video.
Regarding that I used to draw and help build custom office/workspace furniture I would recommend using both types of trimming.
We used the slot type trim for workspaces and panels that had to be able to withstand more forceful contacts with materials and equipment. The other trim type was used on normal office and kitchen cabinets, drawers and panels. This trim looked also better as it was cut to fit perfectly.
This is exactly what I'm thinking, thanks for the confirmation.
Excellent video. What about just sanding and sealing the ply edge - is the lightweight ply good enough for that finish do you think?
That is a possibility, the ply is very good quality with no voids, you could get an edge similar to varnished birch plywood.
Hi Greg,
Just came across your campervan furniture builds.
Really excellent tips etc. I'm starting a build soon on my vw transporter.
I will be purchasing a webasto top loading fridge. Have you fitted one these before. I'm after any advice on this.
Thanks Amin
Not that style but the best advice I can give you about fridges is make sure you give plenty of ventilation to the condenser coil (hot bit at the back) if you can get the heat away it will use much less electric 👍🏼🤩
Hi great video, just ordered some furniture boards from Morland for my conversion, could you tell me what cutting blades you used to cut the boards?
Hi Scott I explain in this video.
th-cam.com/video/nMpE7xQQZMU/w-d-xo.html
Watch from 15:40
Watched lots of other videos, but still think Greg Virgoe..is the best to learn from.. such a relaxed manner and great for explaining how its done properly..regards the trim i think I would chose the lighter grain next to the one you chose, but would make my T trim Silver..thanks again for great advice.
Many thanks Daniel for such a nice comment, I do like that driftwood very much. The Zebrano does make the van dark inside.
Another thorough and interesting video Greg. Absolutely love your meticulous way of doing things. ATB - Marc - Belgium
Many thanks, Marc, glad you are enjoying them.
Awesome!
I like the rotor tool trim style.
Keep them videos rolling in.
Thank you very much.
Hi Greg great video. Can I ask how many zebrano boards you got for your van and what size please
We used 7 boards that are just over 8x4 size as they are not finished edges.
Hi Greg great series. In one of your videos I saw a cutting plan you had drawn in sketch up for the furniture board. I've tried to find it but can't. It would be really handy as a guide to quantity. Which episode was it please
Hello Mike, to save you hunting around you can download a copy here :D
www.dropbox.com/s/5tbb3zb36c0o3wm/Cutting%20Plan.pdf?dl=0
Thanks for the info and materials and how to trim the edge and sorry for not getting back to for the t-shirt been a bit mad at work ,all the best
Hi Barry, I know that feeling unfortunately work pays the bills so has to be done. Glad you got the T Shirt ok 👍🏼
Another great and informative video Greg. You have a fabulous work ethic
I’m a Capricorn, so I’m naturally a perfectionist 😁
Hi Greg ,,can you advise best paint or prep needed to paint over motor home walls with the 6mm thin patterned slightly boarding with the outer layer is like a thin plastic /film material for easy cleaning ,it's often used in coach caravans or motor homes any ideas best paint etc ?
I’m very sorry I’m afraid I don’t know anything about paint type
I'm glad you demonstrated the difference between these two. I'm leaning towards the iron-on trim as I've seen it used in many other woodworking videos. But I'm glad I understand how to use the PVC type trim in case I ever want to use that instead. :-)
The iron on trim did make for a very clean and professional look, we have gone with that for all our cupboard doors.
Hi, Greg, could you confirm the colour of your wall boards and is it lightweight ply with high gloss double sided? I`m having trouble trying to find it.
Speak to the sakes team at Morland it’s a high gloss zebrano but I’m not sure they still do the high gloss version
Greg..great videos..many thanks....I have a lot of experience with the iron on...in areas of any humidity or heat movement/changes(ie the whole van!!) it will start to come unstuck ,split from the edges etc...i would go with the t fit plastic and add glue to this to give long term durability....
I was thinking the same thing, the plastic will give far better protection for 'moving' surfaces.
Hi Greg, Hope you are well. We have a weight issue with our van build (still in progress) and even though we have not used any specifically heavy items, it has all added up to a near the Gross van limit of 3500kg. As you used 15mm furniture ply, whereas we are currently using 9mm ply and sofwood frames and intend to carpet line the ply, I would be very interested to know what your final van weight was for the complete build. Any tips on how to keep the build weight down, especially with regard to timber/ply use? Thanks
Very informative as ever Greg , I'm building a Peugeot boxer at the moment and without your videos I'd be lost, keep them coming....
Greg.
I have just found your series of videos. I think they are truly superb. I love your straighforward, informed and informative style. In the future I intend to take on a van conversion, so your videos are research for that. I'm sure, when it comes to it, they will be enormously helpful to me. I like the way you get straight to it with careful explnations, without lots of repetition. If we viewers miss something, we can just rewind.
Thanks again.
Richard
I try to keep it concise and less waffle just to the point and true can’t info. So thank you for noticing and good luck with your own build.
Hi Greg,
your van is fantastic. how many boards did you use please.
Do they not do the iron trim in the same as the board or did you feel happier with the 2 colours cheers
They only did silver and black. I think the black goes well with the black push on T trim 👍🏼😃
Hiya Greg, another excellent video. I was just wondering how are you fixing ply to the walls and roof? I didn’t see any battens going in?
Video out today on roof battens, same applies to the walls. :D
Greg, what do you do in that fabulous workshop other than your van conversion.
Hi Pip, take a look at some of our earlier woodworking videos, we have built jewellery boxes, tables, cabinets etc
Another informative and interesting episode. I like the idea of the Lightweight ply from Morland too! All 5 stars here Greg! Thanks Very Much. Andy
Thank you for your continued support Andy and great feedback, much appreciated
Many thanks Greg, those options make for a tidy finish depending a neat fit Draw or overlapping over head cabinets.
Thank you Michael, much appreciated.
Hi Greg your videos are the best explained and I don't think I would tackle a project like this can you give me a idea how many ceiling and furniture board you ordered from moorland thanks
I used exactly 7 furniture boards which there was little waste from and four ceiling boards because I wanted only three widthways joins along the roof beams. Was a bit of waste on the ceiling boards but not that expensive. If you PM me I can send you a pdf cutting plan 👍🏼😊
@@GregVirgoe was that only 3 boards for all the cabinets and shower enclosure
No Stephen, I used 7 laminated furniture boards, plus 4 vinyl ceiling boards. 11 sheets in total
@@GregVirgoe ok thanks
Thanks Greg, another great and informative video. I too am looking forward to you building the cabinets. My preference would be the iron on finish. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Greg. Really enjoying the vids and products. Especially the electrical fittings, so far. Im voting for the iron on edge tape. It can be brittle but easy to replace.
I'm going to use it around doors and drawers where it's not exposed so much.
PVC push on everywhere else.
Ed Wild
Another nice one Greg. Although the iron-on trim looks better initially, I wonder how long it would be before it started to lift? The advantage of the pvc is that it can be glued as well, so that you are not relying solely on friction to hold the strip in place.
One further point; There would be no need to radius the corners of the doors etc, -it would not be difficult to mitre them instead. Weight difference between the two types of edging is negligible.
Hello Ed, nice to hear from you. I found out the professionals glue on the edge banding and don't iron it on. I'm totally with you on glueing the T trim into the grooves, however I'm not sure how easy it would be to get clean looking mitres with it? I'll try it. I've not seen that done before and it makes me wonder is there a reason for that. Best wishes
if you use t strip seal the edges of ply first to stop water getting in and swelling the ply. silicone is good as a joiner i use it on worktop sink cutouts, smooth on with a finger and wipe of edges. use window scraper with stanley knife blade, keep it flat on the board at 45' (dull the blade and take off the sharp points ) so it wont scratch the surface this is a fast way to trim iron on edging tape. love the videos
Thanks for the tips David, I've brought a proper Stanley edge banding trimmer with spare blades, bargain at £15
Could you give me a link to the gloss board you mentioned, i can only find satin? thanks
Please speak to Morland on the phone as I’m not sure if they still do the high gloss version. Thank you 😊
very good video...do you know a supplier for Germany or Austria ? the shipping from GB would be quite expensive....
Hi Greg. Apologies if you’ve been asked already but how many sheets of furniture board did you need/use for your build?
Cheers
Phill
Phillios R we used 7 sheets in total.
Greg Virgoe thanks great. I better get saving then 😂
I think the iron on trim looks better and you can have square edges witch looks so much better, modern, fancier than the rounded ones, can wait for the cabinets being built and finished!! Great job!
Many thanks Gessica for your thoughts & Thanks for watching.
Excellent video Mate! I think I'm going to enjoy following your van build. I have a beautiful westfalia and the trim shrunk over the years, have you considered this? While it still looks amazing after 30 plus years the one thing that takes away is the end gaps on the ply ends. Its some sort of plastic and installed in a slot like you , so elegantly demonstrated. I'm wondering if the properly glued pvc trim would be better for shrinkage and temperature expansion differentials of the materials.
Great video Greg, are the ply sheets sealed or impregnated with a resin or waterproof product at all to prevent liquids soaking into the edges? It looks like very good quality material and being lightweight will make a huge difference
You would need to seal the raw plywood edges or apply edgebanding, same as any other plywood.
Just wondering how the trim is holding up. Any sign of it falling out?
Hi Greg very hard decision between the two they both look really nice 👍🏻 😊
Neil Cox, it would appear that T trim in hard wearing areas is the way to go.
Hi Greg, do Morland still do the furniture board you used? I love it, but it looks really grey in your videos and the only Zebranos I can find on the Morland site seem to have a lot of brown in, which I'm not so keen on. It's driving me mad!
Yes, I'm pretty sure the high gloss boards are all made to order as we did wait a couple weeks to fulfil the order.
I will put here the exact Morland Product code from my invoice. Best advise is to phone and speak to sales.
MOR305788 2500x1220x15 LW Ply Altofina Zebrano 003 HPL 2/S **70% PEFC
@@GregVirgoe thanks so much!
Hi, loving the attention to detail 👍. Could you tell me which hold down clamp you used, the red one?
Another very informative video, thanks for sharing. My experience with the iron on trim is that the glue wears off over time. Especially in areas that are more likely to get in contact with water, or that needs proper cleaning now and then. Like in the kitchen area I would choose the pvc trim. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for your assistance, I will be taking further advice from the suppliers re the glue.
Hi Greg, just found your FANTASTIC channel today. Watched your van tour (saw you on a Gadget John episode) and really liked your drinking water solution. I would like to add the mod to my caravan, but wonder if the light weight counter tops will hold a screw. Do you know if the Morland board is used for caravan work tops, and if so do you have an opinion as to its suitability to retain small screws?
Finally, your van looks fantastic, definitely as good as, if not better than produced by the industry. Also your instructional videos are outstanding. Haven’t seen a better instructional video on any subject.
Many a Thanks
John
Thank you very much that's very kind of you to say so, the Morland furniture board is very good quality and as it has multiple layers (7) plus laminate is has great screw retention properties and cuts really cleanly.
As always inspiring Greg! I would definitely go for the iron-on trim. It is far more modern, and I used it myself in our closet in the bedroom. Very easy to work with. I suppose you can get them in the same colour as the finer?
Hello Henrik, the edgebanding does come in a vast range of colours and wood effects. Most of the time the doors and drawer front edges will not be seen, only when open. So having a neutral colour is not a problem. The T Trim comes in fewer colour options. The zebrano has black in it and I can get both the trims in black. Good to hear that you had some success with it.
Another great and very informative video Greg, i'm currently self building a VW Crafter LWB same as your Sprinter and i'm intreaged as to how you do the bed area! I'm trying to fit in my CBR 600 in with my mountain bikes but the bed height will be an issue as i'm a big fella.
The bed frames were welded up last week and ready to be installed. I’ve got a couple of major videos to release in the next week all to do with the garage and bed arrangements
Really excited about it. 😀
Looking forward to it!
How does the weight of those panels compare to standard ply of equivalent thickness? Thanks...another great video btw!
There is a little difference, but when you take into account these have more plays and a laminate finish on both sides the core is lighter and stronger for screws etc
Hi Greg, many thanks for your video... been missing your videos... just to let you know, my project is underway as well.... this is a comment before seeing your video... reverting after seeing your video, but it goes without saying, it must be a fab video as always.... thank you in advance... cheers
Thank you very much Sirpreet
Hi Greg, I like the rounded edge trim but I have found where its been used on my caravan and previous caravan , it does tend to come out in places and requires a tap to replace it. I wonder if temp variations in the van is the cause? I also have found the same as Jessie Parris re constriction. The Iron on edging also looks OK so, looking forward to future vlogs and how your van will look.
You may be right Brian, it could be due to expansion.
I’m wondering if a bit of glue in the groove may be the answer. I’ll get some advice from the manufacturers.
Hi Greg. Really enjoying these videos as we're doing our own build on a Relay. One thing (not sure if it's been mentioned in a previous comment) as a kitchen fitter I'd always use a sheet of brown paper between the iron and the iron-on edging to prevent scorching...especially on light colours or gloss. .always look forward to the next video!!
Great little tip that David, thank you
Hi Greg great video I like the iron on edging do you think you could do a cubbard door with square corners in one continuse piece when hot or 4 single piece's cheers
Hi, this particular material cracks when it’s folded so I think it would better to trim each side separately. Thanks
Great video, and very timely for me - Do you think you would be able to make a mitred corner with the PVC trim? Or get the PVC trim to follow a tight (maybe 5mm) radius corner by cutting away the 'tongue'?
I think Morland do a 2-3mm thick ABS edging which looks better, but you need a banding machine to apply it as far as I know.
Keep up the good work.
I like the iron on. Can you get matching color for it? I like the light weight plywood.
There are different solid colours available. Mostly shades of grey, black and brown. There are wood effect iron on edgebanding too.
Hi Greg ,
Will you be using radius corner moulding for upright corners and longer joins like overhead lockers? It gives a great finish
Hi. There is an alternative called a radius corner , it's purpose made for finishing edges or producing sleek looking corners , they come in aluminium and are also available in some of the same finishes of lightweight board.
Ah yes, I have seen those in the catalogue.
Wonder if they come in Zebrano?
Hi, thanks for these videos they are absolutely fantastic! Quick question about the workbench and clamp you use in your workshop, can you tell me the details of them please? Thanks
Hello Ian, the assembly table I made myself from birch plywood and I have two videos of this on my channel, here is the build video th-cam.com/video/6I3wM6-M6S4/w-d-xo.html. The ratchet clamps are made by Bessey and there is a link to these in that video description. I love those clamps they work so well and are really strong. Not cheap but very well made.
Thank you for showing us this factory material. So its a plywood with a laminated finish. Edge banding was beautifully done, nice to see how.
Do they also make thinner plywood or real wood sheets which can be inserted into a slotted aluminum frame? In the US, a branded version of aluminum framing is called 80/20. It comes with slots or finished edges, your choice. You can attach wood sides to this. I want to find thinner sections of wood or plastic or other material that is moisture resistant, warp resistant, and strong that fits into the channels for a sturdy cabinet and easy assembly. Box stores like Home Depot only carry birch plywood which looks too homemade. I need a 1/4" thick option to birch plywood.
Euro high gloss finish is very attractive. I think you picked a winner with that striping. Finished cabinets will be the envy of all.
Nice one Greg - I would use the iron on edging that on edges of drawers and doors and the inset pvc on end panels.
I was thinking exactly the same Norman
Hi You used a 3mm router bit all the available trim suppliers are recommending 2mm. Was 3mm recommended for your trim. Thanks
It was supplied by Morland who make the boards 👍🏼
Greg, great video as always! Would you say it's possible to use the T-shaped PVC edging on a rounded corner? Perhaps cutting away small pieces of the part that's pushed into the plywood to allow it to bend inwards. Of course it needs to be a larger bend around the corner, say a 50 mm radius bend. Thoughts?
Hello Kim, you are spot on. If you remove small V shapes out of the trim you can easily bend it around much tighter corners. I have not experimented myself yet but i would say you could get it down to much smaller than a 50mm radius. I would definitely take up the advice of many others by adding some glue to hold this in place.
I think the iron on trim not only looks better, it will weigh less. Downside though is that it won't protect the edge of the laminate on the ply from lifting (which I suspect could be an issue inside the van due to the humidity). I would use the PVC wherever there's a chance of it being knocked by clumsy van dwellers.
I wouldn't be confident using a chisel to trim it though, I would be worried about marking the finish. Craft knife all the way for me, and probably a heat gun and roller to apply it.
Another great video Greg. Keep it up.
You are dead right about the edges getting knocked and the PVC would stand up to more abuse.
That's why I will use a combination of both finishes. Probably only use the iron on for doors and drawers.
You could use a number of tools to trim the edgebanding it is very easy to cut.
I have seen proper tools designed for this too. Thank you for your feedback.
Some more great information. It's exciting to see your van come together. Love the color of the laminate you've chosen, as well as the high gloss finish. Also your idea of combining the two different edge treatments in the fit out. By chance, is that iron on edging available without the pre-applied glue? I think if it is applied with spray-on contact it would be more durable, and less susceptible to failure due to excessive heat.
As always, I'm looking forward to your next video. You are a great teacher, and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Btw, those are great samples and a fine catalog. I wonder what similar products are available here in Canada.
I spoke to a company that manufacture production RVs and they use a high strength contact adhesive to glue the iron on edgebanding on.
Hi Greg, out of curiosity how many furniture boards did you use? I’ve roughly calculated I’m going to need around 5 sheets, am I in the right ball park? Cheers
Riaz RJ I used 7 boards in total and this plan shows you how they were cut.
www.dropbox.com/s/5tbb3zb36c0o3wm/Cutting%20Plan.pdf?dl=0
Thanks Greg, that’s brilliant 👍🏼 will hopefully say hello in Stratford
Riaz RJ please do come say hello. 😊
Greg, I'd go with the edge banding...with a slight twist. I'd use an edge banding trimmer for the absolute best result.
Hi John, yes I have now found the right tools on eBay and really cheap too. Thanks
Can I ask how many sheets of furniture board you used in total?
I used 7 laminated furniture boards, plus 4 vinyl ceiling boards. 11 sheets in total
Hi. I personally would prefer the PVC trimming on all ends that are prone or visible or that usually see a lot of touching with hands. the glued on vernier is good for inserts, holes, drawers or stuff where the overhang of the PVC would be hindering.
This seems to be the consensus of opinion from everyone so far.
Thank you for your feedback.
another great video there Greg. loveing the detail your going too. im not a big fan of the iron on edging it tends to peel after a while. looking forward to your choice for the wall cladding and thanks for your efforts to share.
dont do facebook Greg, but my vote would be the iron on edge every time. In a previous life we used to make bespoke dental cabinetry with iron on edging to doors and drawers and after ironing, we used a hardwood block and sandpaper at 45 degrees to thin out the edging until it snapped and a finer grade to bevel the corner. Always sanding in towards the piece, as you did with the chisel. After requesting samples from Morlands, we received only one sheet of veneer and a photo of our second choice. You probably picked up the samples during your visit?
We're being deluged by snow right now and our car is looking like a large white van at the moment. Much too cold to be thinking about anything outside or in a workshop. Brave man with short sleeves! Best wishes R & T
Thanks for the vote guys, we too have had lots of snow here. I've got a deadline looming so there's no rest for the wicked I'm afraid. It was very cold in the garage workshop. Case of vanity over sanity 😂
and there were we thinking that you had very hairy forearms but it was just frost then?
Haha really, are they that bad lol. Someone said I should give them back to chewbacca. Can't find the comment now. That is funny.
Greg, I'm a carpenter & joiner working primarily on construction sites these days. I have a budget (and hopefully enough skills!) to convert a T6 to a high spec. My dream is sell it on for a profit then repeat until I leave the hamster wheel of site work behind. Do you think it's possible to go this route, please?
BTW, I'm very impressed with your skills, you could easily have been an excellent carpenter!!!
Hey man good vid again. How much is a sheet? Also what makes it light lightweight?
Hello to quote Morland's website... Poplar plywood has a density of approximately 440 kg/m3, compared with around 600 kg/m3 for normal plywood, making it perfect as a weight saving option. The board Morland specify is 15mm nine ply whilst the industry norm is five or seven-ply on 15mm board. Every ply improves the screw retention properties of the board. Morland 15mm lightweight furniture ply is, therefore, both light and strong making it ideal for vehicle fit outs.
Depending on the surface finish you choose, prices range from £48 unlaminated to £150 a sheet for top range.
Did the seat swivel higher the seat ??
Well done on another good video Greg. I am looking forward to when you start making your furnature so I can see how it's done properly.
Hi again Greg - and thanks again Sir - your videos are excellent and indeed you should receive a letter from her majesty pronto. I'm sure she will get the message, as I expect she too is watching them :)
Anyway, I've seen some very interesting videos where they make cabinets using PU foam boards, and I've seen them fibreglassed as a complete unit which gives it exceptional strength, completely water proof and extremely light too. With some techniques using spay paint, quite arty effects are possible too and counter surfaces can withstand hot pots etc. Best thing is its easy to repair later, without the need to try and source the same materials and finishes.
That is what I am thinking of using for my camper trailer. A lot more work, but in my application, much of the cabinet work will be directly exposed to nature - both heat and cold, wet and dry, so timber is out unless I choose to fibreglass that instead and hope I don't leave a spot exposed or accidentally crack the fibreglass. Food for thought for some of your viewers perhaps?
I have seen the same video, my only thoughts when I watched it was a lot of processes and work went into just once cabinet.
Interesting ideas but I will be sticking to the wood. Thank for sharing your thoughts.
As always a thumbs-up on the video, I like the PVC style best but both of them look very professional
Thanks for all the research you do that benefits the rest of us. Cannot find a supplier of this material in the US, even though Moreland does have a US headquarters in Sarasota Florida. If you can ship a 4X8 panel 1500 miles I'm sure it would be very costly.
Hi Greg. How many 15mm plywood did you used for campervan build please?
Google User I used 7 sheets of furniture board. 👍🏼😊
Hi Greg, I think your right to go for a combination of the two,pvc edging will be more durable but less practical for things like draw fronts etc. Iron on edging can look quite tatty after a relatively short time especially around steemy areas such as kettles.
That's a good point about steam in the kitchen area, I shall take some further advice on this.
Really enjoying your build Greg! I have been planning a build of my own to replace my 1990 Westfalia Atlantic Hightop when It becomes too difficult to maintain.
I do have some input concerning your edging materials. As you probably know, Westfalia uses the T type of edge banding which is a great endorsement for the material, however it does have a problem of shrinking with age. This shrinkage has left several gaps of 1/2" to 1" that I've had to fill with pieces taken from a couple of areas that are out of sight. It has also caused problems with the track for the sliding bed sections in the hightop which required removal and re-installation to resolve. I would hope today's materials are a bit more stable but you might want to take that into consideration.
Anyways, keep up the great work and I'll be waiting for your next episode.
Keep up the good work. Your videos are well done.
Thank you very much
Hi Greg, I've used iron-on wood veneer successfully on loudspeaker projects but there is no way I would use it in a van. I just know it would eventually peel away with the heat and humidity. I've also seen the plastic knock-on trim coming away, especially on inside curves. If you go plastic, would an additional adhesive be a wise precaution?
I’m speaking to the suppliers as they must come across this all the time. Yes I plan to glue the push on trim in place.
If the plastic strip is PVC or PE, then special adhesives are required. But maybe good old-fashioned EVO-STICK is the way to go.
Been informed that CA and activator is the way to go with T Trim. But it’s a one shot deal
Maybe it's just me but putting plastic trim on wood just doesn't seem right. From someone who just loves wandering around our local timber yard, I would like to see a hard wood edging strip, say 3mm thick, to finish off the plywood edges. How you get around the curves would be another matter!
Have you got a link to the router bit needed please?
Yes Lee, here is the link for the 3mm Slot cuttign bit
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_nkw%3Dt%2Btrim%2Brouter%2Bbit%2B3mm%26_sop%3D12
the iron on edge banding does not hold up well in hot environs. I live in Australia and have seen many motorhomes and Vans have the edge strip lift off due to the internal heat build up. So if you plan on spending much time in hot climates i would go with the trim.
Hi, Great videos, how many furniture boards did you use in your sprinter ?
Seven in total 👍🏼
@@GregVirgoe Thankyou
Hi I work as an apprentice cabinet maker when I turn 40yr old and was taught to use the bastard file but I would love to know what the right tool is called please thanks
Another great instalment Greg...if it was down to me I’ll have the plastic "T" on all rub against edges and the iron on for door/drawer edges...you’ll be surprised at how much you need to protect those touchable areas....coming along nicely mate, good luck 👍🏼😊
Exactly what I was thinking too Marc. Cheers buddy. 👍🏼
Another great video and so well presented thank you, regarding opinion I feel the iron on edge may not have the longevity and be prone to chipping, although I feel it looks nicer. However I’m not sure I would want to round off all my edges.in these situations I always take the easy way out and let my other half decide, then it’s never the wrong decision.
happy wife, happy life?
I personally think they're not happy unless they got something to moan about.
That why the workshop is such a valuable bolt hole of dust and debris lol
On the lightweight version of the portable folding workbenches I build I use T molding to protect work surface edge from mild impact and scrapes. To keep the edges from lifting away if struck and to keep a gap from forming at the edge joins, at the ends of the T molding and especially where 2 edges meet I use a countersunk tiny flat head screw from the underside that goes right through the inserted part of the T and into the other side. I predrill and countersink at once with a custom made drill/countersink I cut on a deckel plus a pin-drill jig attached to a small cordless drill motor. Of course you don't need a custom cutter or a jig for small projects if you are careful just use a pin-drill vise by hand.
I've never seen that technique used but it sounds very interesting. You didn't say but reading in between the lines are you using a mitred corner on your T Trim? finishing with a square pointed corner. Do you have any images you could share greg@virgoe.com
Great informative video. Just what I was looking for!
Thank you Mark
Can see benifit to both edgings,matter of taste i guess, both do a good job. Impressed with the light panel board