Dude it works, and it works well. It meets all your design goals. Who cares if the surface finish is a little less, it's using sharp corners on a roughing insert - less than mirror is expected.
To get the best finish with the flycutter I had to run the feed at 75mm/min at 0.1mm depth of cut. The CCGT insert has a 0.8mm corner radius but the 100 degree corners are far sharper. This demonstration hopefully shows that I can get a better finish with the button insert face mill running over 20x the feedrate of the flycutter and could easily take a 4mm depth of cut.
Glad it works for you. I have found button insert face mills better for my applications as shown in the video. A random orbital sander & various grades of scotchbrite offer further satin finish options.
Here are a couple of short video links links using magnetic rotating rollers with a non marking flat on them. drive.google.com/file/d/1B_tPAOlvVQfDqgTwQBJpDxfW_598oZ9d/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1I7JXrSf_DCAR4xKKN-n6P8z0PAqeTT4w/view?usp=sharing
2 things. Its hard to see the cutter. And aluminum? Really? And don't give me this BS that aluminum is fine. I've been in the industry over 40 years. Its not fine.
The toolholder is a stock left handed steel boring bar, I kept it deliberately buried in the body to minimize any protrusions for safety. There is an image just showing the boring bar. The test piece was Aluminum which I thought would be ok for the demonstration, I did not want to make a really long video showing lots of other materials being cut. The body is also Aluminium as it only carries the steel toolholder that holds the insert. The cutting is performed by a polished high shear insert, specifically for machining Aluminium. It has very low cutting forces to transfer to the cutter body.
@@machinists-shortcuts Aluminum for the body is fine for a proof of concept, but if you are going to keep it around I'd remake it in steel. Even with the lower tool pressure you'll still get measurable material deformation with aluminum just from the rotational stress of spinning. And by switching to steel you won't have to worry about galvanic corrosion, not to mention thermal expansion problems and "oops" moments having a higher chance of catastrophe.
@@skwerlz I won't use it again, even this cutter is just too slow to make me any money. The video was intended to demonstrate that I can get far better finishes with button insert face mills far, far quicker. The original idea was to auction it off for charity, but your sales pitch may change that lol. I should get it anodized & I'm sure it will be a nice addition to someones tool collection. If I need a uniform finish I use scotchbrite pads on a random orbital sander - see my video - th-cam.com/video/HfX3zSDTySE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mu2Yq1PJw0jj0jEh thanks for the comments.
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nicely done, great results! thanks for sharing
Thanks
Dude it works, and it works well. It meets all your design goals. Who cares if the surface finish is a little less, it's using sharp corners on a roughing insert - less than mirror is expected.
To get the best finish with the flycutter I had to run the feed at 75mm/min at 0.1mm depth of cut. The CCGT insert has a 0.8mm corner radius but the 100 degree corners are far sharper.
This demonstration hopefully shows that I can get a better finish with the button insert face mill running over 20x the feedrate of the flycutter and could easily take a 4mm depth of cut.
Beautiful! My flycutter has a 6-inch swing and is hands down my favorite finishing tool. I use a SNMM insert at 45 degrees.
Glad it works for you. I have found button insert face mills better for my applications as shown in the video. A random orbital sander & various grades of scotchbrite offer further satin finish options.
Nice tool. It should last. I like your round stock vice jaws. I’m going to use that one.
Here are a couple of short video links links using magnetic rotating rollers with a non marking flat on them.
drive.google.com/file/d/1B_tPAOlvVQfDqgTwQBJpDxfW_598oZ9d/view?usp=sharing
drive.google.com/file/d/1I7JXrSf_DCAR4xKKN-n6P8z0PAqeTT4w/view?usp=sharing
Excelente ,,
👍👍😎👍👍
I thought that was supposed to be a comparison?
I did a comparison at the end showing the different finishes together.
2 things. Its hard to see the cutter. And aluminum? Really? And don't give me this BS that aluminum is fine. I've been in the industry over 40 years. Its not fine.
The toolholder is a stock left handed steel boring bar, I kept it deliberately buried in the body to minimize any protrusions for safety. There is an image just showing the boring bar.
The test piece was Aluminum which I thought would be ok for the demonstration, I did not want to make a really long video showing lots of other materials being cut.
The body is also Aluminium as it only carries the steel toolholder that holds the insert. The cutting is performed by a polished high shear insert, specifically for machining Aluminium. It has very low cutting forces to transfer to the cutter body.
@@machinists-shortcuts Aluminum for the body is fine for a proof of concept, but if you are going to keep it around I'd remake it in steel. Even with the lower tool pressure you'll still get measurable material deformation with aluminum just from the rotational stress of spinning. And by switching to steel you won't have to worry about galvanic corrosion, not to mention thermal expansion problems and "oops" moments having a higher chance of catastrophe.
@@skwerlz I won't use it again, even this cutter is just too slow to make me any money. The video was intended to demonstrate that I can get far better finishes with button insert face mills far, far quicker. The original idea was to auction it off for charity, but your sales pitch may change that lol. I should get it anodized & I'm sure it will be a nice addition to someones tool collection. If I need a uniform finish I use scotchbrite pads on a random orbital sander - see my video - th-cam.com/video/HfX3zSDTySE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mu2Yq1PJw0jj0jEh thanks for the comments.
i have use industry 20 years aluminium made cutting tools. It was many different aluminium alloys, and best alloys are strong like steel
@@juhavuorinen3945 Yes the Aluminium is easily fit for purpose, I've been at this for 50 years when the tools were in black and white.