Hey! I just bought one. Are you supposed to wet them before sharpening like a wet stone? I didn’t see you do it in the video and I want to make sure I use it properly. Thanks!
Hi there! Thanks so much for reaching out! In short, whether or not you wet the stones depends on which type of stone you use. For Alumina Oxide and Silicon Carbide sharpeners, we recommend using them dry, and cleaning them when enough metal debris has accumulated to interfere with the sharpening process. For the natural Arkansas sharpeners, we recommend using them with honing oil at all times to prevent glazing and/or fracturing. Lastly, for diamond hones, do not use the oil at all. For more detailed information or if you have any other questions for us, please contact us at customerservice@lansky.com ! We hope this helps!
Bought one about 20 yrs ago to sharpen other people's knives. I have always free hand sharpened but always had people asking me to sharpen theirs aswell so I bought it to make sure I got perfect angles and save time. I used it to sharpen coworkers knives for free, at least 15 people. One day at quiting time I set it on top of my locker for no more than 10 mins and when I came back it had been stolen. The kit also had several stones (black and translucent) and rods I had acquired over the yrs that were worth a good amount of $. I never bought another rod sharpener despite how good that lansky was. I did replace my stones and rods with others but the ones in the kit that were given to me by my father inlaw before he passed can never be replaced or given to my own sons. I've thought about buying another one lately but now days I'd have to go with the diamond kit because of the super/specialty steels.
I've had my Lansky for almost 30 years and love it! I can't think of a better system to keep all of your knives sharp. I've recently purchased a 2000 grit Saphire stone and a strop. You can literally shave will my pocket knife!
I have the lansky leather stropping hone, well in fact two with different compounds. Most of the times I don't even have to resharp my blades, just stropping them.
Awesome product, I got mine at Blade Show this year, I was worried I wouldnt be able to do a good job on my knives if I purchased one. But the young gentlemen there for Lansky was terriffic. Very nice and took extra time demonstrating until I was confident I could do it. He showed me how to use it correctly, and i am very pleased with it and how my knives come out when I use my Deluxe System at home. The Ceramic Pocket Sharpener he sold me on is also a terriffic sharpener!!! Thanks again Lansky guy!!!
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Same here, the only thing new in my original kit is a diamond hone and I had to toss the small bottle of honing oil years ago as age or oil or combination caused it to shatter.
Good sharpening system but I purchased the 5-stone kit a while back and immediately regretted I didn't get the diamond kit. I spend 10 mins per kitchen knife on the course and medium stones and still cannot get a burr. Spend the extra money on the diamond kit unless you don't value your time. The stones tend to load up and get slick as well (take a look at her blue stone at the end of the video). I found myself cleaning them after every knife, which also adds to the time.
Hm…. I may be obtuse, but I can’t get this kit to work on a Victorinox SAK. At a 25 degree setting the stone will (just) clear the clamp, but at a lower setting it won’t. The blade isn’t long enough to first do one half, change its position in the clamp and then do the other. The middle gets left out. So my question is: Am I getting this wrong (how?) or is this set not suited for small edc knives?
Hi! Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Are you using a standard clamp or one with a rubber insert? Using the standard clamp without the insert is best for smaller blades. Let us know if you have any further questions!
@@LanskySharpeners Standard clamp. Can't get it to work on a small knife and I have a bettter solution for bigger ones, so I'm sorry to say it has become superfluous.
@@bertushofstra8246 I'm so sorry to hear that! If you'd like to reach out to our customer service department, they would be happy to work with you on this - our email is customerservice@lansky.com.
I started a new edge on the 20 degree I’m having trouble getting that fine sharp edge! I’m using a sapphire stone for final finish but can’t get that edge? Any suggestions? Thanks
Instead of tape in the jaws of the clamp, try moleskin, found in the first aid section (foot care) of grocery/drug/large box stores, or thin supple leather like natural chamois. These two materials not only help prevent scratches, they will aid in keeping the knife from moving in the clamp especially when the spine or sides of the knife are shaped in unusual ways. Try the moleskin or leather in 1"x 1" squares. Of course your needs may require differing sizes. Moleskin usually has an adhesive backing so you can affix it to the inside of the jaws.
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042that is true. This is something I’ve experienced personally. What I’ve done is move the clamp and do the knife in sections trying to match everything as close as possible. Not perfect, but not bad.
I would probably try switching the hand when changing sides, to slide towards the tip on both. That should make the point sharper as there is a danger of rounding it when going towards the grip on on side, starting to slide setting up the stone against the tip.
One trick I found is using wet dry sandpaper taped to fine stone. Found grits from 1000 to 7000 grit. Puts a mirror finish on edge plus takes sharp to a new level.
My dad has one of these with the og stones that he bought in ...the early 90s..i was young when he got it .he swears by it...i just bought one for myself,its now what ill swear by
This may be a stupid question. How do I know which stone I have in my kit? I've been using the oil on it. Maybe I shouldn't. I have a 5 stone kit. Looks like the first kit you showed. black 70 thru yellow 1000. If I used oil and shouldn't did I damage the stones?
Will the Landsky sharpen a 6 to 8 inch Bowie style knives? It seems like most of the knives in the demonstrations are smaller pocket knives. Looking forward to learning more. Thank you for the video and the demonstration.
Hi Lonnie. We do have special instructions for sharpening blades that are longer than 7 inches. You can check them out at this link, then click the instructions tab. Hope that helps! lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
@@LanskySharpeners why did you remove my comments? Afraid people will know the truth that your product sucks now and you told me to use it dry so I can damage my knives? I'm putting my own review out and people will see the truth.
It does not matter. As long as the burr is consistent and as long as the burr is completely removed at the end with a strop. The direction of the scratches do not matter.
Great vid! been watching some vids here on youtube, since the instructions that came with the standard kit were pretty vague, and they all say different things about where/how to clamp yuor knife and so on. Now i finally got it right and will sharpen all my knifes with this kit!
Great system. Works very well. The instructions say to have about 5/8" of the blade extending. On some longer knives that is not possible, i.e. Chef's knives. Any suggestions are appreciated.
We're so glad our system is working well for you! If your blade is greater than 7" in length, pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade (so for example if you choose the tip, place the clamp two finger widths away from the tip). Once the clamp is secured, your target sharpening zone is between two finger widths on either side of the clamp. After sharpening this area repeat the process by moving the clamp two fingers away from the edge of the newly sharpened area. For knives over 7 inches we recommend sharpening them in sections of 3-4". You can also use a small piece of tape to mark the edges of the section you're sharpening to minimize overlap. If you need additional assistance or have other questions please reach out to us at customerservice@lansky.com.!
New to sharpening (at least serious sharpening) and have a Lansky system with standard hones. I have some knives that I need to reprofile and am wondering if I can do that with a extra course or corse diamond hone and the finish up with the standard hones. Thanks for any advice!
The type of stone doesn't matter. You can mix and match materials. What matters is the angle and the stones getting finer as you go. Once you start using a stone, the material of the stone you used before doesn't matter. For example, in this video she used the aluma stones and then finished with ceramic.
Hello I've been researching knife sharpening systems for the last week, from electric to homemade, wet-stones and grinders on drills. I want something for my Japanese kitchen knives, are kitchen knives to big for this system ? as every time I see people using it they are sharpening pocketknives..?
Good question. We have two long Globals and one rectangular chopper knife my brother in law bought for us from a master in Japan. Would hate to ruin them.
Thanks for the question! Most kitchen knives and other larger knives can be used with the system without any issues. Both our dual thumbscrew Soft-Grip clamp and our Standard clamp can accommodate almost any blade up to 7" long, however, the Soft-Grip clamp is not intended for use on blades measuring 1/2" wide or less. Hope this helps! If you have further questions please let us know.
No matter what I do, I cannot get the guide rods tight enough to the stones to stop them from going off straight. Is there some sort of technique? I mean, it's literally a screw, shouldn't be hard to do but I can't make it stay.
Still have my set I bought in the mid-80's and use it monthly. I'm about ready to change out the stones..... One note - extra course and course aren't just for damaged blades. If you want to change angles for whatever reason, it's always good to start out with Extra Course to reset the blade.
Ok, not with the diamond hones (I have those) but do you have to use some oil with the yellow ceramic 1000 grit or the blue sapphire 2.000 grit? Thank you and greetings from Spain.
Hi there! We tested a Case Trapper in our system to better understand your issue, and weren't able to replicate the problem. Could you please share a little more detail? You may also redirect your question to customerservice@lansky.com for more in-depth assistance! Hope this helps!
Hi Andrei, are you making sure you're cleaning your hones in between sharpening sessions? If they're smoothing out, it sounds like they might be filling with shavings from the knives you've sharpened. Feel free to drop a note to customerservice@lansky.com if you need someone to walk you through the process.
This system seems antiquated at this point. Trying it on a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 and the red thumb screw blocks the 17 degree angle on one side of the knife...
Hi, any tips for mounting a knife like a Spyderco pm2? It’s a flat grind from the spine down to the edge, so there is no consistently parallel surface on which to clamp. One is basically clamping onto a V shape. Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for reaching out! Please contact us via email at customerservice@lansky.com and we would love to provide more detailed assistance and feedback.
Question When sharpening your blade with this system in regards to the 17, 20, 25 and 30 degree offset slots, do you try and keep the rod at the top of the slot or at the bottom of the slot while using your stones.
You can keep the rod in place best by holding it down with a finger at the back of the clamp, which would hold the rod against the bottom of the slot. Hope that helps!
I tried doing three S&W Extreme Ops cheap knives today and yes I got them sharp up I never could get them razor sharp. I then tried sharpening one on my electric sharpener and without any effort I was able to do the paper test and it worked like a charm. What degree is recommenced for folding pocket knives?
Depends on the manufacturer. Some like 20°, others 25°. Mark the edge with a sharpie and while using the fine grit stone, start from the shallowest edge working up in angle until a single pass can cleanly remove the mark. This will give you the exact angle you need to use to sharpen it to factory angle and sharpness. Hope this helps.
I was going to purchase the Diamond system off Amazon however there are many reviews complaining about the clamp not holding the knives and damaging the knives. Have there been any changes made to the clamp?
I've had the diamond system since the mid 90s. I have sharpened my USMC KABAR, several different brand pocket knives, and even kitchen knives. I have never damaged a single blade. You just need to be deliberate and follow her instructions on how to lock the blade down. As she stated I use a new piece of electrical tape on each side of the clamp for every blade I sharpen. DO NOT REUSE TAPE FROM ONE BLADE TO ANOTHER as blades have different shapes and you could wear out the protection by tearing the used tape. I hope this helps.
@@dkingpin74 thank you for taking the time to respond. In January 2022 I purchased the Deluxe 5 stone system. Very disappointed with the results. Tried a variety of kitchen knives from small 3” blades to 6-7” blades. I’ve done as few as 10 swipes with each stone, from coarse to the ultra fine and the result was dull. Then I tried 30 swipes with each stone-same poor result. Let my stepson borrow it for a few weeks-he didn’t have any better luck. In only one instance did the knife feel sharper than where it started. I even bought screws to replace the big red knob that prevented me from sharpening at the sharpest angle. Also bought the table clamp and the pedestal. Now it sits gathering dust. I’d spent an hour and a half on just one blade-very disappointed 😢
Yes! For knives over 7 inches long, we recommend using our clamp, which includes a rubber insert sold separately from our system. To sharpen larger knives, it's important to work in sections. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions for you!
I have the Controlled-Angle Sharpening System Delux but, I have no clear indication of which stones I have (other then the ultra-fine ceramic) Oh, I happened to notice while looking through lansky reviews the clamps used to pinch the knife seem to be getting shaved and was wondering what it was made out of?
It's really a matter of preference. You can use the oil on the hone to sharpen with, or use it only after sharpening to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
Their edges (cleavers, axes) usually are too far from the clamp and the hones can't reach them but you can sharpen some big fixed hunting knives and some thin machetes.
Sharpening literally means turning a dull blade into a sharp one. If you do that and end up with something that cuts worse than before than you didn’t sharpen it but rather used your knife as a stone scraper I mean by grinding metal on stone you’ll inevitably going to “use” up your blade. That’s why you hoan your blade on steel until the edge gets brittle -> you put the edge back on with stone -> use blade and hoan until it loses edge again -> repeat until knife is gone. So yeah, it is possible to “over sharpen” but id refer to it as “not sharpening correct”. Imagine cutting back trees every year, is it possible to “over cut”? Not if you know what your doing, but if you have no clue and cut your tree at the root it’s gone lol
The stone rod guide isn't a great idea. It is flimsy and loosened and begins to twist. I keep tightening it. Wouldn't it be better to secure the rod ( mold it together). 1 rod for each stone?
I have a knife with a spear point blade where both sides (cutting and non cutting) of the blade are beveled and the thickest part of the blade is a small ridge down the center. How can I clamp the blade to get the correct angles or will this not work for those type blades (i.e. spear point, dagger, etc.)?
If you have the Deluxe 5-stone system, it does not require oil while you're sharpening. Metal filings from the sharpening process will start to get into the hone though, and that's when you'll use the oil to clean it up. If you have a Deluxe DIAMOND system, do not use honing oil as it will clog the pores. Full instructions are available at lansky.com (click the product you have). Your kit should also come with complete instructions. Hope that helps!
Another tip is to use a clothes pin/bag clip or something similar on the rod to prevent pulling the rod too far back. This helps improve speed quite a bit.
I was wondering the same thing, since I'll be getting the strop as well. Every video I've seen on stropping uses compound, so I'm going to say might as well - can't hurt, esp since you have the controlled angle and no danger of accidentally dulling the blade. I'm going to.
I got one of the deluxe systems. Where I ran into an issue was when I got down to the fine stone, the blue one and my knife literally shaved off the surface of the stone. And that was with light pressure. Any ideas? What am I doing wrong?
It will work but you might have to readjust the knife in the clamp once or twice to make sure you're getting the entire length of the blade. If you like to freehand sharpen, you can also use a bench stone and get excellent results that way.
I know this is an older video. I highly recommend the ceramic handheld, C-Sharp, for quickly putting the edge back on kitchen knives. The C-Sharp isn't as precise as a full honing, but it's convenient and keeps you cutting. If you're using your knives very seriously, break out the Precision Angle system. Two things: The rod isn't tight in the angle slot in the handle, you need to use your finger to keep it snug. Be sure to check the screw holding the rod in the stone, they will work loose (don't gorilla tighten them).
Hay tres bases diferentes que se venden por separado, una de aluminio, otra de plástico y una tercera que se sujeta a una mesa mediante un tornillo. Saludos desde España. Las puedes ver aquí lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Ok I'm confused about your video? You started on one side going from handle to knife tip. When you flipped it you went from knife tip to the handle??? Shouldn't both sides go the same direction?
All the videos I've seen for this system show sharpening of pocket knives only, usually 3" or 4" blades. I'm wondering how long a knife can be sharpened with this system?
Hi Jon. Our kits include instructions for sharpening knives that are under or over 7". Here's the link to the product page: lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/. You can find instructions for sharpening longer knives under the instructions tab.
If blade is greater than 7” in length: Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade. (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.) When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp. The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone. Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade. Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade. When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers. Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes. Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished. (i found these on the website)
It's really a matter of preference. Some people use the oil on the stone to sharpen with, and others use it only after to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
My question is , why do you set at 25° for pocket knives? I did start at 25° but i got to thinking about how i did my knives by hand and i would be sharpening at at least 20°. My knives came out sharper doing it at this angle. And it seems everyone has a different way of sharpening. I'm still working on some of my knives because i wasn't doing it at the right angle. I think all knives should be at 20° except for bigger hunting knives. I think it will take a few times to get my knives back to where they should be. I bought the deluxe kit and the extra fine hone right away and it seems to be doing a good job. I would surely look at the lansky site to get the proper way to sharpen your knives. Thanks for your help.
It really depends on the use , say to shave 17 , 20 is a good sharp knife but don’t last as long as a 25 degree where you would say cut card board all day but it not as sharp as 20 but still cuts cardboard or rope great all day no issues ..... if that makes sense at all
@@dewroc66 I agree. I would use 17 on a filet knife, 20 on a kitchen knife. I would keep the 25 to an everyday pocket knife like you described. Probabble go 30 on a hatchet or machete
We actually have a set of hones specifically designed for karambits and other curved blades that will work with your current system. You can check it out here: lansky.com/index.php/products/curved-blade-hone-pack/
Lansky Sharp would this kit that is sold at SouthernGrind.com, be a good choice to sharpen mostly folding pocket knives that are middle to Higher class. Like a Chaves Rendicion 228, or a Zero Tolerance folder? Or would I need to get some extra parts?
I've seen videos where people sharpen using an up and down stroke with the hone on the blade, moving from one side to the other. Is this not recommended? Thank you.
Hello. Great question. We don't recommend moving the hone up and down in a sawing type of motion. For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I do enjoy this system, but my fine stone dipped out fast and my extra coarse is starting to dip out. Having said that, I did reprofile and sharpen all my knives in my collection to great results, so I guess it did the job... I'm thinking of buying the diamond deluxe kit next with the strop hone.
Lansky Standard Knife Clamp vs. Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp? What is the exact measure of both? Why the "Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp" can not function with narrow knives like a Swiss army knife 1/2 "? Thank You!
Hello - both clamps are the same size. The difference is that the Soft-Grip Clamp has rubber on the jaws that prevent getting scratches on your blade. It doesn't have the notches that are on the Standard Clamp, which is why it isn't recommended for very small blades. The notches in the Standard Clamp are where you would hold small blades. Some people prefer the Soft-Grip clamp, and others prefer the Standard. Some will even add some masking tape or electrical tape to the Standard Clamp to prevent scratches. Hope this answers your question.
Lansky Sharp the notches are nice because they help you place the knife blade to the same exact depth in the clamp each time. I have both clamps, and I've been wondering how to replicate the blade placement in the padded one the next time I use it on the same knife. Also, some knives don't have much of a flat on the blade, they sort of taper from the spine to the blade. I have had a challenge getting those types of blades to line up perfectly parallel to the clamp. Lucky, that's not the case with many knives. I've had my Lansky since the 1980's and I love it. If you tape your blade to keep it from scratching, always place the knife at the same depth in the clamp, fit the guide rod properly in the stone, and use your finger on the back side of the clamp to lift the rod to the top of the guide rod hole, you should always get very good results.
Lots said about *accurate blade angle" I can't see how this can be the case as the exact angle will depend on the width of the blade, wider blades would have the edge further from the guide resulting in a lesser angle
Me and all the guys I know who guide big game hunts all use the lansky and get razor sharp edges that last through multiple animals. I’m guessing you aren’t doing something right
I have seen so many ways to use this sharpener. Here she moves INTO The blade with a small slide down a portion of the blade. Others move the blade up and down and yet other slide the stone left to right on the blade. Quite the conundrum for those new to the system.
Sounds like you have our soft-grip clamp. For your purposes you might want to look into the one without the rubber grips. lansky.com/index.php/products/multi-angle-knife-clamp/
Hey! I just bought one. Are you supposed to wet them before sharpening like a wet stone? I didn’t see you do it in the video and I want to make sure I use it properly. Thanks!
Hi there! Thanks so much for reaching out! In short, whether or not you wet the stones depends on which type of stone you use. For Alumina Oxide and Silicon Carbide sharpeners, we recommend using them dry, and cleaning them when enough metal debris has accumulated to interfere with the sharpening process. For the natural Arkansas sharpeners, we recommend using them with honing oil at all times to prevent glazing and/or fracturing. Lastly, for diamond hones, do not use the oil at all. For more detailed information or if you have any other questions for us, please contact us at customerservice@lansky.com ! We hope this helps!
I received my Dads diamond system 17 years ago after he passed, what a great sharpening system. Still works great.
Same here. Still using my late dad's kit.
@@pierredelange4077 me, too.
Do you recommend the deluxe or the diamond ?
@@alextheamethyst5262 I have only used the diamond and it works great.
There are so many idiotic instructional yt videos on how to sharpen with Lansky.
This is the only correct one. Bravo
This is such a great stone sharpening system. I highly recommend this to anyone who doesn’t have experience with hand sharpening.
Bought one about 20 yrs ago to sharpen other people's knives. I have always free hand sharpened but always had people asking me to sharpen theirs aswell so I bought it to make sure I got perfect angles and save time. I used it to sharpen coworkers knives for free, at least 15 people. One day at quiting time I set it on top of my locker for no more than 10 mins and when I came back it had been stolen. The kit also had several stones (black and translucent) and rods I had acquired over the yrs that were worth a good amount of $. I never bought another rod sharpener despite how good that lansky was. I did replace my stones and rods with others but the ones in the kit that were given to me by my father inlaw before he passed can never be replaced or given to my own sons. I've thought about buying another one lately but now days I'd have to go with the diamond kit because of the super/specialty steels.
I've had my Lansky for almost 30 years and love it! I can't think of a better system to keep all of your knives sharp. I've recently purchased a 2000 grit Saphire stone and a strop. You can literally shave will my pocket knife!
I have the lansky leather stropping hone, well in fact two with different compounds. Most of the times I don't even have to resharp my blades, just stropping them.
Same stones?
Awesome product, I got mine at Blade Show this year, I was worried I wouldnt be able to do a good job on my knives if I purchased one. But the young gentlemen there for Lansky was terriffic. Very nice and took extra time demonstrating until I was confident I could do it. He showed me how to use it correctly, and i am very pleased with it and how my knives come out when I use my Deluxe System at home. The Ceramic Pocket Sharpener he sold me on is also a terriffic sharpener!!! Thanks again Lansky guy!!!
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
Best system I've ever tried! I recommend both the regular kit and the diamond de luxe kit.
Love this system, had mine since the 1980's
Same here, the only thing new in my original kit is a diamond hone and I had to toss the small bottle of honing oil years ago as age or oil or combination caused it to shatter.
Good sharpening system but I purchased the 5-stone kit a while back and immediately regretted I didn't get the diamond kit. I spend 10 mins per kitchen knife on the course and medium stones and still cannot get a burr. Spend the extra money on the diamond kit unless you don't value your time. The stones tend to load up and get slick as well (take a look at her blue stone at the end of the video). I found myself cleaning them after every knife, which also adds to the time.
What do you do about the issue of clamping a full-flat ground blade?
Eg: Spyderco Paramilitary 2. 🤷🏼♂️
Yea my shrade sharp finger won’t clamp on !!!
How are these for use on kitchen knives?
When sharpening at 17 deg, I'm finding the rod rubs on the red knob.. am I doing something wrong?
Glad I watched video. Instructions that came with kit was throwing me off, because it was stating about notch in clamp
Hm…. I may be obtuse, but I can’t get this kit to work on a Victorinox SAK. At a 25 degree setting the stone will (just) clear the clamp, but at a lower setting it won’t. The blade isn’t long enough to first do one half, change its position in the clamp and then do the other. The middle gets left out. So my question is: Am I getting this wrong (how?) or is this set not suited for small edc knives?
Hi! Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Are you using a standard clamp or one with a rubber insert? Using the standard clamp without the insert is best for smaller blades. Let us know if you have any further questions!
@@LanskySharpeners Standard clamp. Can't get it to work on a small knife and I have a bettter solution for bigger ones, so I'm sorry to say it has become superfluous.
@@bertushofstra8246 I'm so sorry to hear that! If you'd like to reach out to our customer service department, they would be happy to work with you on this - our email is customerservice@lansky.com.
I was hoping for a demonstration of the oil. How do you apply it? how much and how often? But that was the one think you did not show.
I started a new edge on the 20 degree I’m having trouble getting that fine sharp edge! I’m using a sapphire stone for final finish but can’t get that edge? Any suggestions? Thanks
Hi there! Send us an email at customerservice@lansky.com and we'll be happy to help you with this!
Instead of tape in the jaws of the clamp, try moleskin, found in the first aid section (foot care) of grocery/drug/large box stores, or thin supple leather like natural chamois. These two materials not only help prevent scratches, they will aid in keeping the knife from moving in the clamp especially when the spine or sides of the knife are shaped in unusual ways. Try the moleskin or leather in 1"x 1" squares. Of course your needs may require differing sizes. Moleskin usually has an adhesive backing so you can affix it to the inside of the jaws.
thank you for the advice :)
Try human skin......
Call me hannibal.....😝
Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point.
If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES.
After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.
@@GABI59042that is true. This is something I’ve experienced personally. What I’ve done is move the clamp and do the knife in sections trying to match everything as close as possible. Not perfect, but not bad.
You just gave me an idea. Band aids
I would probably try switching the hand when changing sides, to slide towards the tip on both. That should make the point sharper as there is a danger of rounding it when going towards the grip on on side, starting to slide setting up the stone against the tip.
One trick I found is using wet dry sandpaper taped to fine stone. Found grits from 1000 to 7000 grit. Puts a mirror finish on edge plus takes sharp to a new level.
good idea! I cant find anything better than 600 grit around here for sharpening stones.
Same as l sharpen my ski edges. 400 paper and on
@@TheRockerxx69 Jesus where the devil do you ski lol
Pavement
If you do end up with not perfectly flat stones at some point can you use the same method to level them that you would with a regular whetstone?
My dad has one of these with the og stones that he bought in ...the early 90s..i was young when he got it .he swears by it...i just bought one for myself,its now what ill swear by
This may be a stupid question. How do I know which stone I have in my kit? I've been using the oil on it. Maybe I shouldn't. I have a 5 stone kit. Looks like the first kit you showed. black 70 thru yellow 1000. If I used oil and shouldn't did I damage the stones?
I guess my question is where do I clamp to the blade? Where you decide to clamp determines the angle.
Will the Landsky sharpen a 6 to 8 inch Bowie style knives? It seems like most of the knives in the demonstrations are smaller pocket knives. Looking forward to learning more. Thank you for the video and the demonstration.
Hi Lonnie. We do have special instructions for sharpening blades that are longer than 7 inches. You can check them out at this link, then click the instructions tab. Hope that helps! lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Thank you very much. Will be getting a Landsky soon.
@@LanskySharpeners why did you remove my comments? Afraid people will know the truth that your product sucks now and you told me to use it dry so I can damage my knives? I'm putting my own review out and people will see the truth.
I noticed that she sharpens in a different direction when the knife is flipped over. Is that the best method or does it matter?
It does not matter. As long as the burr is consistent and as long as the burr is completely removed at the end with a strop. The direction of the scratches do not matter.
@@JoseGabriel-dd2up Japanese knife masters ALWAYS sharpen from the tip down. But in the words of Keith Hodges...do whatever DA FUQ you wanna do!
Great vid! been watching some vids here on youtube, since the instructions that came with the standard kit were pretty vague, and they all say different things about where/how to clamp yuor knife and so on. Now i finally got it right and will sharpen all my knifes with this kit!
Great system. Works very well. The instructions say to have about 5/8" of the blade extending. On some longer knives that is not possible, i.e. Chef's knives. Any suggestions are appreciated.
We're so glad our system is working well for you! If your blade is greater than 7" in length, pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade (so for example if you choose the tip, place the clamp two finger widths away from the tip). Once the clamp is secured, your target sharpening zone is between two finger widths on either side of the clamp. After sharpening this area repeat the process by moving the clamp two fingers away from the edge of the newly sharpened area. For knives over 7 inches we recommend sharpening them in sections of 3-4". You can also use a small piece of tape to mark the edges of the section you're sharpening to minimize overlap. If you need additional assistance or have other questions please reach out to us at customerservice@lansky.com.!
@@LanskySharpeners Thanks! Appreciate the response.
@@andycarrigan1868 You're welcome!
On one side you go away from the knife body, on the other you go toward the knife body. Is that correct?
Actually, you should be moving towards the knife body on both sides.
Can i sharpening longer blades and 5mm thicker????
New to sharpening (at least serious sharpening) and have a Lansky system with standard hones. I have some knives that I need to reprofile and am wondering if I can do that with a extra course or corse diamond hone and the finish up with the standard hones. Thanks for any advice!
The type of stone doesn't matter. You can mix and match materials. What matters is the angle and the stones getting finer as you go. Once you start using a stone, the material of the stone you used before doesn't matter. For example, in this video she used the aluma stones and then finished with ceramic.
@@dkingpin74 thank you for the info!
Hello I've been researching knife sharpening systems for the last week, from electric to homemade, wet-stones and grinders on drills. I want something for my Japanese kitchen knives, are kitchen knives to big for this system ? as every time I see people using it they are sharpening pocketknives..?
Good question. We have two long Globals and one rectangular chopper knife my brother in law bought for us from a master in Japan. Would hate to ruin them.
Thanks for the question! Most kitchen knives and other larger knives can be used with the system without any issues. Both our dual thumbscrew Soft-Grip clamp and our Standard clamp can accommodate almost any blade up to 7" long, however, the Soft-Grip clamp is not intended for use on blades measuring 1/2" wide or less. Hope this helps! If you have further questions please let us know.
No matter what I do, I cannot get the guide rods tight enough to the stones to stop them from going off straight. Is there some sort of technique? I mean, it's literally a screw, shouldn't be hard to do but I can't make it stay.
Still have my set I bought in the mid-80's and use it monthly. I'm about ready to change out the stones..... One note - extra course and course aren't just for damaged blades. If you want to change angles for whatever reason, it's always good to start out with Extra Course to reset the blade.
What knife is that???
Ok, not with the diamond hones (I have those) but do you have to use some oil with the yellow ceramic 1000 grit or the blue sapphire 2.000 grit? Thank you and greetings from Spain.
Why do they not come with the clamps for the desk?
Good question. Actually you'd save money just buying a clamp from a hardware store.
Is there an ultimate kit with everything?
Hello I have a case trapper 2 blade knife when I try put the clamp on the stone hits the clamp It's hard to get enough blade in clamp to keep it tight
Hi there! We tested a Case Trapper in our system to better understand your issue, and weren't able to replicate the problem. Could you please share a little more detail? You may also redirect your question to customerservice@lansky.com for more in-depth assistance! Hope this helps!
@@LanskySharpeners could you send a pic of the case trapper in the clamp plz
@@donniemurley8812 Please send us an email and we'll be more than happy to help you with that!
@Lansky Sharpeners send your email address please
@@donniemurley8812 Sure! You can reach us at customerservice@lansky.com
Why my coarse diamonds hone and medium hone are soft like fine hone after 2 or 3 knifes? They loose roughness.
Hi Andrei, are you making sure you're cleaning your hones in between sharpening sessions? If they're smoothing out, it sounds like they might be filling with shavings from the knives you've sharpened. Feel free to drop a note to customerservice@lansky.com if you need someone to walk you through the process.
@@LanskySharpeners Thank you. I will try to contact them.
This system seems antiquated at this point. Trying it on a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 and the red thumb screw blocks the 17 degree angle on one side of the knife...
Should I use the oil on the ultra fine hone?
Always use oil. The oil prevents the metal to get stuck at the stone. After honing. Wipe off oil.
Hi, any tips for mounting a knife like a Spyderco pm2? It’s a flat grind from the spine down to the edge, so there is no consistently parallel surface on which to clamp. One is basically clamping onto a V shape. Thanks.
Hi! Thanks for reaching out! Please contact us via email at customerservice@lansky.com and we would love to provide more detailed assistance and feedback.
Is the fine stone supposed to soak the oil up? You didn't put oil on it but no where in the instructions does it say.
hey lansky. THANK YOU FROM A FAN :)
Question When sharpening your blade with this system in regards to the 17, 20, 25 and 30 degree offset slots, do you try and keep the rod at the top of the slot or at the bottom of the slot while using your stones.
You can keep the rod in place best by holding it down with a finger at the back of the clamp, which would hold the rod against the bottom of the slot. Hope that helps!
I tried doing three S&W Extreme Ops cheap knives today and yes I got them sharp up I never could get them razor sharp. I then tried sharpening one on my electric sharpener and without any effort I was able to do the paper test and it worked like a charm. What degree is recommenced for folding pocket knives?
Depends on the manufacturer. Some like 20°, others 25°.
Mark the edge with a sharpie and while using the fine grit stone, start from the shallowest edge working up in angle until a single pass can cleanly remove the mark. This will give you the exact angle you need to use to sharpen it to factory angle and sharpness.
Hope this helps.
@@taimaishu-nao1922 This blew my mind. I NEVER would have thought of this. Thanks
This was very useful to learn what is in each kit thank you.
Great video. Just what I needed. Thank you
I was going to purchase the Diamond system off Amazon however there are many reviews complaining about the clamp not holding the knives and damaging the knives. Have there been any changes made to the clamp?
I've had the diamond system since the mid 90s. I have sharpened my USMC KABAR, several different brand pocket knives, and even kitchen knives. I have never damaged a single blade. You just need to be deliberate and follow her instructions on how to lock the blade down. As she stated I use a new piece of electrical tape on each side of the clamp for every blade I sharpen. DO NOT REUSE TAPE FROM ONE BLADE TO ANOTHER as blades have different shapes and you could wear out the protection by tearing the used tape. I hope this helps.
@@dkingpin74 thank you for taking the time to respond. In January 2022 I purchased the Deluxe 5 stone system. Very disappointed with the results. Tried a variety of kitchen knives from small 3” blades to 6-7” blades. I’ve done as few as 10 swipes with each stone, from coarse to the ultra fine and the result was dull. Then I tried 30 swipes with each stone-same poor result. Let my stepson borrow it for a few weeks-he didn’t have any better luck. In only one instance did the knife feel sharper than where it started. I even bought screws to replace the big red knob that prevented me from sharpening at the sharpest angle. Also bought the table clamp and the pedestal. Now it sits gathering dust. I’d spent an hour and a half on just one blade-very disappointed 😢
When use in seventeen degrees the Stone hurt in the clamps, why ?
Could you explain the problem a bit more?
If I have the deluxe kit is it worth buying the diamond hones?
Many people do like to add diamond hones to increase the speed of sharpening.
How about serrated?
Does this work for big knives?
Yes! For knives over 7 inches long, we recommend using our clamp, which includes a rubber insert sold separately from our system. To sharpen larger knives, it's important to work in sections. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions for you!
I have the Controlled-Angle Sharpening System Delux but, I have no clear indication of which stones I have (other then the ultra-fine ceramic)
Oh, I happened to notice while looking through lansky reviews the clamps used to pinch the knife seem to be getting shaved and was wondering what it was made out of?
thanks for the demo. Should I be using the oil that came with my kit for this?
It's really a matter of preference. You can use the oil on the hone to sharpen with, or use it only after sharpening to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
does the deluxe set come with diamond stones? just to know if I should use the oil or not. THX
Is it possible to sharpen straight blades with this as well, e.g. chinese cleavers and alike?
Their edges (cleavers, axes) usually are too far from the clamp and the hones can't reach them but you can sharpen some big fixed hunting knives and some thin machetes.
@@pericodelospalotes5738 i just went ahead and made a longer guide rod from a more sturdy wire cloth hanger - worked great!
@@pericodelospalotes5738 She mentioned above that you could move the clamp up or down the blade to reach all areas of edge for long knives.
Do you use the oil with the hones that come with the deluxe version?
Absolutely! They are meant to be used together.
Is it possible to over sharpen a knife ?? I know that sounds like a silly question.. Like sharpen it to where it dulls out
Sharpening literally means turning a dull blade into a sharp one. If you do that and end up with something that cuts worse than before than you didn’t sharpen it but rather used your knife as a stone scraper
I mean by grinding metal on stone you’ll inevitably going to “use” up your blade. That’s why you hoan your blade on steel until the edge gets brittle -> you put the edge back on with stone -> use blade and hoan until it loses edge again -> repeat until knife is gone.
So yeah, it is possible to “over sharpen” but id refer to it as “not sharpening correct”.
Imagine cutting back trees every year, is it possible to “over cut”? Not if you know what your doing, but if you have no clue and cut your tree at the root it’s gone lol
my rear jaw/clamp has too much slop in the holes/slots.
What are the different angles of the kits?
All the kits have the same angles. 17, 20, 25, 30
Omg I got one of these for Christmas yesterday and I was sharpening away from the edge. No wonder it wasn’t working.
What about the oil ?
The stone rod guide isn't a great idea. It is flimsy and loosened and begins to twist. I keep tightening it. Wouldn't it be better to secure the rod ( mold it together). 1 rod for each stone?
I have a knife with a spear point blade where both sides (cutting and non cutting) of the blade are beveled and the thickest part of the blade is a small ridge down the center. How can I clamp the blade to get the correct angles or will this not work for those type blades (i.e. spear point, dagger, etc.)?
Hi Phil, for a blade like that we would recommend our Master's Edge or Turn box sharpeners.
Should we soak the stones in water? I got the deluxe, doesnt say arkansas stone so not sure to use oil
If you have the Deluxe 5-stone system, it does not require oil while you're sharpening. Metal filings from the sharpening process will start to get into the hone though, and that's when you'll use the oil to clean it up. If you have a Deluxe DIAMOND system, do not use honing oil as it will clog the pores. Full instructions are available at lansky.com (click the product you have). Your kit should also come with complete instructions. Hope that helps!
@@LanskySharpeners thx
Another tip is to use a clothes pin/bag clip or something similar on the rod to prevent pulling the rod too far back. This helps improve speed quite a bit.
Great suggestion, I've just been dealing with the over-pull issue. I'm defiantly going to implement this.
When are you supposed to apply the oil to the stones? Before sharpening, or afterwards to clean them?
Scrolled down and found the answer
Just got the system recently and got the deluxe 5 stone system. Also got the leather strop. Am I to use compound on the strop ?
I was wondering the same thing, since I'll be getting the strop as well. Every video I've seen on stropping uses compound, so I'm going to say might as well - can't hurt, esp since you have the controlled angle and no danger of accidentally dulling the blade. I'm going to.
I got one of the deluxe systems. Where I ran into an issue was when I got down to the fine stone, the blue one and my knife literally shaved off the surface of the stone. And that was with light pressure. Any ideas? What am I doing wrong?
Sounds like the fine stones rod was bent or not set properly
It's funny how there is no link to buy it
What is your best sixteen
Do you guys oil the stone before sharpening or just for cleaning?
Just for cleaning once the stones get loaded with metal.
Hi. Will this work effectively with blades that are 30 cm long?
It will work but you might have to readjust the knife in the clamp once or twice to make sure you're getting the entire length of the blade. If you like to freehand sharpen, you can also use a bench stone and get excellent results that way.
Sharpen 15 cm at time. Make a mark at the blade with a pen.
I have a block of slate much in the dimensions of a regular oil stone. With water as a lubricant it polishes to razor finish.
I just bought my first lansky deluxe…. Amazing …. Razor sharp first time
What does it mean if you been sharpening for 8 hours the same side of a knife and still not got a burr?
clogged stone. Rinse it off with water.
I know this is an older video. I highly recommend the ceramic handheld, C-Sharp, for quickly putting the edge back on kitchen knives. The C-Sharp isn't as precise as a full honing, but it's convenient and keeps you cutting. If you're using your knives very seriously, break out the Precision Angle system. Two things: The rod isn't tight in the angle slot in the handle, you need to use your finger to keep it snug. Be sure to check the screw holding the rod in the stone, they will work loose (don't gorilla tighten them).
Hola, la base donde se sujeta el sistema, se vende por separado? Gracias y saludos desde mexico
Hello, it sounds like you're looking for the universal mount. Here's a link to it: lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-mount/
Miguel adrian peña santoyo si
Hay tres bases diferentes que se venden por separado, una de aluminio, otra de plástico y una tercera que se sujeta a una mesa mediante un tornillo. Saludos desde España. Las puedes ver aquí lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/
Hi I’ve ordered 3 stone system. What is a proper angle for tactical knife?
25 degrees for outdoor knives, 20 for everyday use knives
Apply the "tactical " angle
Ok I'm confused about your video? You started on one side going from handle to knife tip. When you flipped it you went from knife tip to the handle??? Shouldn't both sides go the same direction?
All the videos I've seen for this system show sharpening of pocket knives only, usually 3" or 4" blades. I'm wondering how long a knife can be sharpened with this system?
Hi Jon. Our kits include instructions for sharpening knives that are under or over 7". Here's the link to the product page: lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/. You can find instructions for sharpening longer knives under the instructions tab.
If blade is greater than 7” in length:
Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade. (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.)
When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp. The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone. Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade.
Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade.
When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers.
Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes.
Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished.
(i found these on the website)
Biggest knife I've Sharpened with this had a 9 or 10 inch blade, and I didn't even have to move it in the clamp.
When and how do you apply the honing oil to the stones?
It's really a matter of preference. Some people use the oil on the stone to sharpen with, and others use it only after to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.
@@LanskySharpeners Very helpful. Thank you.
My question is , why do you set at 25° for pocket knives? I did start at 25° but i got to thinking about how i did my knives by hand and i would be sharpening at at least 20°. My knives came out sharper doing it at this angle. And it seems everyone has a different way of sharpening. I'm still working on some of my knives because i wasn't doing it at the right angle. I think all knives should be at 20° except for bigger hunting knives. I think it will take a few times to get my knives back to where they should be. I bought the deluxe kit and the extra fine hone right away and it seems to be doing a good job. I would surely look at the lansky site to get the proper way to sharpen your knives. Thanks for your help.
It really depends on the use , say to shave 17 , 20 is a good sharp knife but don’t last as long as a 25 degree where you would say cut card board all day but it not as sharp as 20 but still cuts cardboard or rope great all day no issues ..... if that makes sense at all
@@dewroc66 I agree. I would use 17 on a filet knife, 20 on a kitchen knife. I would keep the 25 to an everyday pocket knife like you described. Probabble go 30 on a hatchet or machete
can use it for big blade like 18 inch machete?
Technical yes but you will have to move the machete so you can hone different parts of the blade
I’ve got the professional kit. Can you use this with karambit’s?
We actually have a set of hones specifically designed for karambits and other curved blades that will work with your current system. You can check it out here: lansky.com/index.php/products/curved-blade-hone-pack/
Lansky Sharp would this kit that is sold at SouthernGrind.com, be a good choice to sharpen mostly folding pocket knives that are middle to Higher class. Like a Chaves Rendicion 228, or a Zero Tolerance folder? Or would I need to get some extra parts?
I have this kit and I love it.
is the clamp as bad as people say?
@@slickman5969 nah
I've seen videos where people sharpen using an up and down stroke with the hone on the blade, moving from one side to the other. Is this not recommended? Thank you.
Hello. Great question. We don't recommend moving the hone up and down in a sawing type of motion. For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
It is possible to re-flaten the stones.
Can this be used on a meat slicer blade?
I do enjoy this system, but my fine stone dipped out fast and my extra coarse is starting to dip out. Having said that, I did reprofile and sharpen all my knives in my collection to great results, so I guess it did the job... I'm thinking of buying the diamond deluxe kit next with the strop hone.
Too much downward pressure. Let the stone glide across the blade and it will do the work.
Do it, the diamond system is superb. Had mine for over 10 years and it works like it's new.
Lansky Standard Knife Clamp vs. Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp? What is the exact measure of both? Why the "Dual Thumbscrew Soft-Grip Clamp" can not function with narrow knives like a Swiss army knife 1/2 "? Thank You!
Hello - both clamps are the same size. The difference is that the Soft-Grip Clamp has rubber on the jaws that prevent getting scratches on your blade. It doesn't have the notches that are on the Standard Clamp, which is why it isn't recommended for very small blades. The notches in the Standard Clamp are where you would hold small blades. Some people prefer the Soft-Grip clamp, and others prefer the Standard. Some will even add some masking tape or electrical tape to the Standard Clamp to prevent scratches. Hope this answers your question.
Lansky Sharp the notches are nice because they help you place the knife blade to the same exact depth in the clamp each time. I have both clamps, and I've been wondering how to replicate the blade placement in the padded one the next time I use it on the same knife.
Also, some knives don't have much of a flat on the blade, they sort of taper from the spine to the blade. I have had a challenge getting those types of blades to line up perfectly parallel to the clamp. Lucky, that's not the case with many knives. I've had my Lansky since the 1980's and I love it.
If you tape your blade to keep it from scratching, always place the knife at the same depth in the clamp, fit the guide rod properly in the stone, and use your finger on the back side of the clamp to lift the rod to the top of the guide rod hole, you should always get very good results.
Lots said about *accurate blade angle" I can't see how this can be the case as the exact angle will depend on the width of the blade, wider blades would have the edge further from the guide resulting in a lesser angle
Where can I get the base for it?
Hi there. Here's the link to our Universal Mount. lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-mount/
At 2:40, Lansky needs to consider NOT including the honing oil with the diamond stones. Why include something that will clog up the diamond stones?
I bought the deluxe kit. Tried multiple times to sharpen all of my hunting knives. They all came out dull. Not too thrilled so far.
Me and all the guys I know who guide big game hunts all use the lansky and get razor sharp edges that last through multiple animals. I’m guessing you aren’t doing something right
Will this system work with 9inch filleting knives?
Hi Caleb, yes filet knives can be sharpened with this system. It has four different angles so you can use it on a variety of knives.
I have seen so many ways to use this sharpener. Here she moves INTO The blade with a small slide down a portion of the blade. Others move the blade up and down and yet other slide the stone left to right on the blade. Quite the conundrum for those new to the system.
I use mine to sharpen my broad heads which are 2 blade heads, rubber clamp not so good rubber comes off very soon & the knife moves in the rubber.
Sounds like you have our soft-grip clamp. For your purposes you might want to look into the one without the rubber grips. lansky.com/index.php/products/multi-angle-knife-clamp/
I just put electrical tape on it, WORKS GREAT.