I have a lot of older locos, rolling stock, buildings etc. and I always wonder what their story is. How many hands have they passed through, were they played with by kids and their dads or grandpas, were they passed down? There's something really satisfying about seeing a locomotive that was shiny and new once upon a time, then left to sit for who knows how long, being brought back to life.
@@monsterford8009 Exactly, it's always exciting to open this stuff up and find work done many years ago by someone else and you can kinda imagine what might have happened with it.
Back in the 80s when I was a kid I had a friend with braces. The small rubber bands he was given for them were perfect for traction tires. He used to get small bags of about 50 from his orthodontist all the time.
I still have a whole stack of bags from when I had teeth issues (not braces but another complicated thing)! Mine didn't fit as traction tires (I use a special product called Bullfrog Snot for that) but they work well as belts for belt drives! Fixed my Athearn rubber band RDCs for cheap that way.
The do-dad between the motor and pully is not a flyweight (I think you meant 'flywheel')--it's a centrifugal clutch. At slow speeds, the clutch slips just like a car does--at higher speeds the clutch gradually locks up. This was meant to provide smoother starts.
This is an EMD SW-7 (You can tell by the letterboard gap in the hood lovers and full height radiatoe. UP bought 25 of them. "The EMD SW7 was a diesel switcher locomotive built by General Motors Electro-Motive Division between October 1949 and January 1951. It was powered by a 1,200 horsepower (895 kW)12-567A engine.. The SW7 replaced the earlier 1,000 horsepower NW2 switcher in EMD's catalog. A total of 489 SW7 locomotives were produced. The majority of the SW7s were built by EMD Plant #3 in Cleveland, In addition, 15 TR4 cow-calf paired sets were produced." It was replaced by the SW9. The difference between the two is the SW7 used tbe 567B enfging and the SW9 used the 567C.
WOW< WRONGO! It's an NW2 because of the half height radiator and no side vents just below the hood roof. UP had 95. FVery few if any had the small electrical box under the radiator. 'The EMD NW2 is a 1,000 hp (750 kW), B-B switcher locomotive manufactured by General Motors Electro-Motive Division of La Grange, Illinois. From February 1939 to December 1949, EMD produced 1,145 NW2s: 1,121 for U.S. and 24 for Canadian railroads. Starting in late 1948, the NW2s were manufactured in EMD's Plant #3 in Cleveland, Ohio. The locomotives were powered by a 12-cylinder model 567 engine and later a model 567A engine. In addition, EMD built three TR cow-calf paired sets, 36 TR2 cow-calf paired sets, and two TR3 cow-calf-calf sets. The TR sets were built before World War L the TR2 and TR3 sets afterwar'" The production totals would have been even higher but EMD's entire 12 cylinder Model 567 engine production was used to power over 1000 Landing Ship Tanks (2 engines each)
CVS brand hair rubberbands will do the trick also. Though they don't last as long. Rubberband drives and traction tires were horrible ideas for model locomotives.
It's an NW2 - the heavy (1000 HP) switcher in EMD's 1939 line remaining on offer until 1949 when the SW7 replaced it. The NW2 has a half height nose grill, while the SW7's grill is full height
That engine is from the 50's and I'd bet it is from 1956. Why would I think that? My dad worked at Revell in the art department, he did bot box cover art and instruction sheets. In 1956 I got my first train set, from dad, Revell. Same switcher engine only - AtlanticCoast live livery. One thing I found was if you lose the headlight it won't run. I had it for a lot of years. I also had a ton of the rubber parts. Dad brought them home after they had found with heavy use they would need to be replaced. Something els was the wheels had to be SUPER clean and the rubbers that went on the wheels worked better if they were ruoghed up a bit. Thanks, nice vid.
For band drive engines, I use the clear rubbery plastic hair ties, they have less tension than the orings, but are the perfect size for lionel ho, revell and athearn band drive
I had the same type Revell engine when I was a kid. Mine ran incredible! I had it pull 48 cars! The engine was a beast but I can’t remember if it was only 4 wheel drive.
Also, be advised that the length of the drive belt is critical. If it's too short, you'll get a herky jerky running. If it's too long you get slippage.
I much enjoyed this video and your efforts to get that old NW2 going. I had one of the same vintage which I purchased new about 1957 in Atlantic Coast Line colors. It was #3570, which as you might expect, was totally wrong - an ACL NW2 would have been something in the #600 range. Revell called them SW7's, but the arched front windows in the cab and the tool box on the front platform suggest NW2. Anyway, it was my favorite locomotive. But, it stalled a lot and eventually drove me from the hobby in frustration. I didn't come back until Stewart/Kato F's, Atlas/Kato GP7's and Con-Cor/Kato MP15's came out. Those were the first really good operating locomotives I encountered in HO. I came back to the hobby at that time. Thanks for a really good and educational video. Much appreciated.
With any luck, it'll run. Of course it will once you tear into it, Harrison. Time to hit the dollar store again for a variety pack of o-rings. Also try the Big Box hardware stores for the green, red or yellow o-rings. They have different properties and purposes. Square cut o-rings are also available which would be best. As others have mentioned, as well as me awhile back, braces elastics work too. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
i would have paid 5 bucks for it at a show i have about 7 of those and yes they are from 1956 and yes there finaky but with a few mods all run great !!!.
No loco can stand up against the Harrison touch. They may TRY, but in the end they succumb to Harrison's skills. And if that loco is from 1956....it's older than I am by more than a year!!!
It's outraging how I miss these opportunities to adquire locos and rolling stock for cheap because I live in Brazil and the "cheapness" of the products offered turns out to smoke due to the shipping costs. The prices with the shipping taxes skyrocket absurdly. You're lucky, living in Canada.
Wow this was a stubborn one to repair in some ways this engine reminded me a little like RSO, with a small touch of earlier ATHEARN type drive. This was a rarity to see a REVELL locomotives in HO scale. Every effort & expertise went into this repair from this vintage diesels past. Another as i am reading other comments would have been replacement wheels from N.W.S.L. or replacement drive but as long as the motor works that's another story. As long as your happy with it that's what counts. Good job Harrison.
Revel HO is most remarkable I collect them run them and enjoy them very much!!! I might add they also offered N gauge every manufacturer in the late 50's jumped on the HO band wagon lol Harrison that disc and round housing is actually a clutch on the motor shaft!!!!
My Athearn band drive engines have a different motor design. The shaft in yours is long out the back side, looks like it could have optional all wheel drive. The band drive and gears in the power truck looks a lot like a Lionel HO engine that I have, although mine was made much later because it has all plastic gears. If that engine was made in the 60's it likely would have been plastic gears too.
Thanks for this video; I'm working on the same model from my father's layout - except his is in B&O livery. It gets power so I'm hoping I can get it back into running condition.
I think I said before, but I believe this is the early version of the drive. Later ones have a plastic frame and a drive similar to Marx or other engines where the motor sits on one truck. There actually is a third version of these. Con-Cor inherited this tooling and they sold a version in the 1980s which uses a Kato drive. I have 2 or 3 of the Revell 0-6-0T steam engine which has a similar motor and I remember opening one to see what was wrong and a whole plate fell off the commutator. I think it's still apart in a box somewhere.
I have a similar one (that’s probably a bit newer) from my great grandfather that is a total hack job. It has clearly seen many decades of jerry-rigging. Hoping to crack into it soon and see if I can fix it up, wish me luck!
I would clean and polish the wheels that way you get a better connection and I would remove the motor and look and see how much is left on the contacts. I would also polish the copper on the Armature that way you get a really good connection.
I've got quite a few old HO scale locomotives that i've picked up here and there but I have yet to get one with a band drive. I think the oldest that I have is a steel flywheel Athearn, Although i've got some old AHM's that may be as old they have motors mounted directly on the trucks pointed down.
A rule of thumb never put the body back on until you sure to chassis is working correctly that way it prevents wear of the BOK part of the body being taken off and putting back on again
Man, I was so excited to find a video from you working on one of these as I have a 1957 one that runs but badly. Its a little disappointing to find that the conclusion is, they just kinda suck. But worst case scenario it will make a good heavy dummy loco.
What a unique locomotive. Good job getting it running when I see the name Revell I think of the car model company I think they're the same company if I'm not wrong I don't know but sounds like it. It's a unique drive system in there I don't think that it would pull that much given that it only has four driving wheels. I've heard that you can use liquid electrical tape for Traction tires which I don't advise cuz it doesn't work that good another thing that I've heard used is bullfrog snot myself I take and went to the Dollar Tree and got hair ties elastics really small ones there multiple colors but they also work quite well.
That is cool. And the Harrison magic touch makes it run. Love watching your repair videos. Thanks for sharing. Oh I found the video I asked you about and found the locomotive on Amazon for $68 US. I also found on eBay a Walthers Trainline Spokane Portland & Seattle Alco FA-1 #858 Used RTR and the owner sold it to me for $51 US + $15 shipping. The seller has a 99.8% rating I hope it was a good deal. I don't know what Alco FA-1 #858 and RTR means. Perhaps you or someone can explain it to me please. I hope to receive it on the 14th. So hopefully I will know by then as it is, as I explained before, a birthday gift for my brother-in-law who is upsizing from N Scale to HO Scale. I bought this locomotive because they moved here (Arizona) from Tacoma, WA and I thought he would appreciate the train line.
What were you thinking of? Since the traction tires were all rotten, Why wouldn't the drive belt also be rotted. Sometimes I can't follow your thinking.
TH-cam is acting up. They’re showing re-runs. I’ve seen this before. Young male acquires a broken loco, then young male fixes loco. Still entertaining though!
Comon man I told yea these had a weird drive and that they used a centrifugal clutch, still don't know why they did that. Also don't use O-rings, buy a pack of heat shrink tubing and just cut yourself rings the right width than heat em up and watch it shrink around the wheel for a perfect replacement fit and because the heat shrink tubing is flat it will work better than those O-rings. As for the belt itself mine was also no good, fortunately I have a large collection of belts and you need one just the right size otherwise the motor will over heat from too much current, Mine draws about 800 to 900mA. That "flywheel" as you called it IS your clutch and it appears to not be working, probably stuck do to age.
Hey SMT! a quick question I can’t find any cheap lots or locos there all like 20,10,6,100,200, Plus the really really really expensive shipping so can you tell me what to search up? also there’s another union pacific big boy on eBay for 100 bucks and it’s similar to the other one you have!
You can almost be able to fix any afternoon because I want you to Quakertown fair in the magnets disappeared and meaning they didn't disintegrate I had the I had bought one that the whole Motors integrated magnets over driveshaft disintegrated to nothing but pretty much almost that thing you can fix it if the motor is attacked it's fixable
*I Have this in O Scale, I think it's an SW 8 IDK Wut it is. Also, IDK which is better: N Scale HO Scale O Scale or Live Steamer Gauge (Forgot) *Vintage is The New UwU (To Me) :3*
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
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I enjoy watching a young person work and with so much knowledge also not afraid to tackle any engine
You are not only a railway fan anymore.
You are a museum curator.
I have a lot of older locos, rolling stock, buildings etc. and I always wonder what their story is. How many hands have they passed through, were they played with by kids and their dads or grandpas, were they passed down? There's something really satisfying about seeing a locomotive that was shiny and new once upon a time, then left to sit for who knows how long, being brought back to life.
Thats why i only buy used stuff because of the curiosity
@@monsterford8009 Exactly, it's always exciting to open this stuff up and find work done many years ago by someone else and you can kinda imagine what might have happened with it.
Back in the 80s when I was a kid I had a friend with braces. The small rubber bands he was given for them were perfect for traction tires. He used to get small bags of about 50 from his orthodontist all the time.
Dank I hope I have mine still now that I know this lol
Thats smart!
I still have a whole stack of bags from when I had teeth issues (not braces but another complicated thing)! Mine didn't fit as traction tires (I use a special product called Bullfrog Snot for that) but they work well as belts for belt drives! Fixed my Athearn rubber band RDCs for cheap that way.
harrison- stop being so cheap and invest in a bottle of bullfrog snot
Facts just go into a dental office and buy them
The do-dad between the motor and pully is not a flyweight (I think you meant 'flywheel')--it's a centrifugal clutch. At slow speeds, the clutch slips just like a car does--at higher speeds the clutch gradually locks up. This was meant to provide smoother starts.
Serenity!! Awesome Harrison, Another cool vintage HO Restoration!! 😎
You can always add washers under the motor to raise it up to add tension on the band
I found that dental rubber bands (the ones for braces) work best as replacement belts
Pretty cool little switcher Harrison, nice restoration!
Hats off for your patience...
Thought revell only did kits, interesting to see them made locomotives that function.
function what what are you taking about
Revell made an entire line of model railroad equipment (1956-1961) including from locos, cars to structures. Check out eBay.
Paints too bro
Goodjobawsom
It has the same drivetrain and motor as my Revell Santa Fe blue and yellow from the same era. It ran like a champ in its day.
Interesting locomotive
Its a SW1200. According to drawings I have, it has access doors along its hood. The SW7 has a missing door toward the front on both sides.
EMD introduced SW1200s in 1966, well after Revell left the market. The arched cab windows show this to be an NW2.
"Look at it Here folks, we've got a runner"
Revell make trains as well I use remember buying their truck kit
This is an EMD SW-7 (You can tell by the letterboard gap in the hood lovers and full height radiatoe. UP bought 25 of them.
"The EMD SW7 was a diesel switcher locomotive built by General Motors Electro-Motive Division between October 1949 and January 1951. It was powered by a 1,200 horsepower (895 kW)12-567A engine.. The SW7 replaced the earlier 1,000 horsepower NW2 switcher in EMD's catalog. A total of 489 SW7 locomotives were produced. The majority of the SW7s were built by EMD Plant #3 in Cleveland, In addition, 15 TR4 cow-calf paired sets were produced." It was replaced by the SW9. The difference between the two is the SW7 used tbe 567B enfging and the SW9 used the 567C.
WOW< WRONGO! It's an NW2 because of the half height radiator and no side vents just below the hood roof. UP had 95. FVery few if any had the small electrical box under the radiator. 'The EMD NW2 is a 1,000 hp (750 kW), B-B switcher locomotive manufactured by General Motors Electro-Motive Division of La Grange, Illinois. From February 1939 to December 1949, EMD produced 1,145 NW2s: 1,121 for U.S. and 24 for Canadian railroads. Starting in late 1948, the NW2s were manufactured in EMD's Plant #3 in Cleveland, Ohio. The locomotives were powered by a 12-cylinder model 567 engine and later a model 567A engine. In addition, EMD built three TR cow-calf paired sets, 36 TR2 cow-calf paired sets, and two TR3 cow-calf-calf sets. The TR sets were built before World War L the TR2 and TR3 sets afterwar'" The production totals would have been even higher but EMD's entire 12 cylinder Model 567 engine production was used to power over 1000 Landing Ship Tanks (2 engines each)
Another replacement for traction tires is taking dentist rubber bands that are used when you have braces. There small and fits all my locos great.
I use them,they work very well
I suggested that many moons ago. Chipmunk elastics for braces as a matter of choice. 👍
CVS brand hair rubberbands will do the trick also. Though they don't last as long. Rubberband drives and traction tires were horrible ideas for model locomotives.
Smart!
It's an NW2 - the heavy (1000 HP) switcher in EMD's 1939 line remaining on offer until 1949 when the SW7 replaced it. The NW2 has a half height nose grill, while the SW7's grill is full height
That engine is from the 50's and I'd bet it is from 1956. Why would I think that? My dad worked at Revell in the art department, he did bot box cover art and instruction sheets. In 1956 I got my first train set, from dad, Revell. Same switcher engine only - AtlanticCoast live livery. One thing I found was if you lose the headlight it won't run. I had it for a lot of years. I also had a ton of the rubber parts. Dad brought them home after they had found with heavy use they would need to be replaced. Something els was the wheels had to be SUPER clean and the rubbers that went on the wheels worked better if they were ruoghed up a bit. Thanks, nice vid.
For band drive engines, I use the clear rubbery plastic hair ties, they have less tension than the orings, but are the perfect size for lionel ho, revell and athearn band drive
Really enjoyed watching the video. I just bought the same one/ 1956 Atlanta Cost Line. The Orings I hope will fix mine.
👍 Amazing! You didn't just repair it, you resurrected it!
Great Job on the loco. I thought like you more middle of the 60s. Stay safe up there, and keep having fun.
I had the same type Revell engine when I was a kid. Mine ran incredible! I had it pull 48 cars! The engine was a beast but I can’t remember if it was only 4 wheel drive.
Also, be advised that the length of the drive belt is critical. If it's too short, you'll get a herky jerky running. If it's too long you get slippage.
Was going to say 1950s as there seemed to be a brownish red cast to that plate under the truck indicating it's bakelite
I much enjoyed this video and your efforts to get that old NW2 going. I had one of the same vintage which I purchased new about 1957 in Atlantic Coast Line colors. It was #3570, which as you might expect, was totally wrong - an ACL NW2 would have been something in the #600 range. Revell called them SW7's, but the arched front windows in the cab and the tool box on the front platform suggest NW2. Anyway, it was my favorite locomotive. But, it stalled a lot and eventually drove me from the hobby in frustration. I didn't come back until Stewart/Kato F's, Atlas/Kato GP7's and Con-Cor/Kato MP15's came out. Those were the first really good operating locomotives I encountered in HO. I came back to the hobby at that time. Thanks for a really good and educational video. Much appreciated.
I always liked switchers. Great vid
Its running better now than when it was new.
With any luck, it'll run. Of course it will once you tear into it, Harrison. Time to hit the dollar store again for a variety pack of o-rings. Also try the Big Box hardware stores for the green, red or yellow o-rings. They have different properties and purposes. Square cut o-rings are also available which would be best. As others have mentioned, as well as me awhile back, braces elastics work too.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍👍
i would have paid 5 bucks for it at a show i have about 7 of those and yes they are from 1956 and yes there finaky but with a few mods all run great !!!.
Really cool locomotive
One point...
With any band drive, for anything, you must make sure the band and what is rides on is comply clean and free of any oil
Awesome love the rebuilds
HELLO DARE HARRISON ! LOOKS LIKE IF YOU CAN'T GET IT TO RUN OR FIND THE PARTS , GET AN ATHEARN POWERED CHASSIS ! 😎
Had that same engine as a kid. Came as a set.
I thought it was going to be another 0-4-0 diesel again
No loco can stand up against the Harrison touch. They may TRY, but in the end they succumb to Harrison's skills. And if that loco is from 1956....it's older than I am by more than a year!!!
“Because these wheels look like crap”,
Gotta be the best call for fixing a train.
It's outraging how I miss these opportunities to adquire locos and rolling stock for cheap because I live in Brazil and the "cheapness" of the products offered turns out to smoke due to the shipping costs. The prices with the shipping taxes skyrocket absurdly.
You're lucky, living in Canada.
Revell makes building kits. I never thought that they build this loco
Super fix!! Love it bro!
Hey, great rebuild. I’ve not long uploaded a rebuild video to my channel inspires by your own. You even get a mention! Keep up the good work.
Wow this was a stubborn one to repair in some ways this engine reminded me a little like RSO, with a small touch of earlier ATHEARN type drive. This was a rarity to see a REVELL locomotives in HO scale. Every effort & expertise went into this repair from this vintage diesels past. Another as i am reading other comments would have been replacement wheels from N.W.S.L. or replacement drive but as long as the motor works that's another story. As long as your happy with it that's what counts. Good job Harrison.
Nice locomotive Union Pacific in HO scale.
SW1200.
Switcher locomotive.
Revel HO is most remarkable I collect them run them and enjoy them very much!!! I might add they also offered N gauge every manufacturer in the late 50's jumped on the HO band wagon lol Harrison that disc and round housing is actually a clutch on the motor shaft!!!!
My Athearn band drive engines have a different motor design. The shaft in yours is long out the back side, looks like it could have optional all wheel drive. The band drive and gears in the power truck looks a lot like a Lionel HO engine that I have, although mine was made much later because it has all plastic gears. If that engine was made in the 60's it likely would have been plastic gears too.
Also be careful oiling bearings on power pickup wheelsets some oils will block flow of electricity
Thanks for this video; I'm working on the same model from my father's layout - except his is in B&O livery. It gets power so I'm hoping I can get it back into running condition.
I think I said before, but I believe this is the early version of the drive. Later ones have a plastic frame and a drive similar to Marx or other engines where the motor sits on one truck.
There actually is a third version of these. Con-Cor inherited this tooling and they sold a version in the 1980s which uses a Kato drive.
I have 2 or 3 of the Revell 0-6-0T steam engine which has a similar motor and I remember opening one to see what was wrong and a whole plate fell off the commutator. I think it's still apart in a box somewhere.
Aren't traction wheel bands flat and not round like o-rings?
That's an interesting motor. Good job!
I have a similar one (that’s probably a bit newer) from my great grandfather that is a total hack job. It has clearly seen many decades of jerry-rigging. Hoping to crack into it soon and see if I can fix it up, wish me luck!
I like that engine! Great job…👍btw, I was born in 1956, fabulous vintage 😁
I Love That Engine.
The. Revell locos ad vertices a clutch drive that's the item coupling the motor to the shaft
I’ve been waiting for this video for so long that I forgot the video existed
Good cheap fix! Well done! Thanks. T4
Clean wheel treads with a felt polishing wheel on your Dremel.
I would clean and polish the wheels that way you get a better connection and I would remove the motor and look and see how much is left on the contacts. I would also polish the copper on the Armature that way you get a really good connection.
Thanks for the content!
I didn't know revell made model trains, model cars yeah dad used their parts on my pinewood derbies.
To my knowledge they had four different powered locomotives.
I've got quite a few old HO scale locomotives that i've picked up here and there but I have yet to get one with a band drive. I think the oldest that I have is a steel flywheel Athearn, Although i've got some old AHM's that may be as old they have motors mounted directly on the trucks pointed down.
A rule of thumb never put the body back on until you sure to chassis is working correctly that way it prevents wear of the BOK part of the body being taken off and putting back on again
My comment did not come out correctly I meant to say never put the body back on until you're sure the system is running correctly...
Hey nice I have an engine like that
Man, I was so excited to find a video from you working on one of these as I have a 1957 one that runs but badly. Its a little disappointing to find that the conclusion is, they just kinda suck. But worst case scenario it will make a good heavy dummy loco.
What a unique locomotive. Good job getting it running when I see the name Revell I think of the car model company I think they're the same company if I'm not wrong I don't know but sounds like it. It's a unique drive system in there I don't think that it would pull that much given that it only has four driving wheels. I've heard that you can use liquid electrical tape for Traction tires which I don't advise cuz it doesn't work that good another thing that I've heard used is bullfrog snot myself I take and went to the Dollar Tree and got hair ties elastics really small ones there multiple colors but they also work quite well.
That is cool. And the Harrison magic touch makes it run. Love watching your repair videos. Thanks for sharing.
Oh I found the video I asked you about and found the locomotive on Amazon for $68 US. I also found on eBay a Walthers Trainline Spokane Portland & Seattle Alco FA-1 #858 Used RTR and the owner sold it to me for $51 US + $15 shipping. The seller has a 99.8% rating I hope it was a good deal. I don't know what Alco FA-1 #858 and RTR means. Perhaps you or someone can explain it to me please. I hope to receive it on the 14th. So hopefully I will know by then as it is, as I explained before, a birthday gift for my brother-in-law who is upsizing from N Scale to HO Scale. I bought this locomotive because they moved here (Arizona) from Tacoma, WA and I thought he would appreciate the train line.
If I remember right those came in kit form.
I love you and your videos
Thanks
you should have cleaned the other 2 wheels on the backend of the engine think McFly think!
What were you thinking of? Since the traction tires were all rotten, Why wouldn't the drive belt also be rotted. Sometimes I can't follow your thinking.
served all the west, until SMT saved it
ive seen so many of those damn things in the past 5 yrs
TH-cam is acting up. They’re showing re-runs. I’ve seen this before. Young male acquires a broken loco, then young male fixes loco. Still entertaining though!
Just needed a little coaxing.
Comon man I told yea these had a weird drive and that they used a centrifugal clutch, still don't know why they did that. Also don't use O-rings, buy a pack of heat shrink tubing and just cut yourself rings the right width than heat em up and watch it shrink around the wheel for a perfect replacement fit and because the heat shrink tubing is flat it will work better than those O-rings. As for the belt itself mine was also no good, fortunately I have a large collection of belts and you need one just the right size otherwise the motor will over heat from too much current, Mine draws about 800 to 900mA. That "flywheel" as you called it IS your clutch and it appears to not be working, probably stuck do to age.
Please visit HFF movie: The Station Agent. Note the toy shop in the very beginning of the movie.
I have a question what day y'all going to fix the Pennsylvania railroad 2-10-0 or use the southern Pacific #99 0-4-0 in a live stream
Just getting a little grease on the main rubber band cause it’s a slip a little bit
Hey SMT! a quick question I can’t find any cheap lots or locos there all like 20,10,6,100,200, Plus the really really really expensive shipping so can you tell me what to search up? also there’s another union pacific big boy on eBay for 100 bucks and it’s similar to the other one you have!
The spaces in a commutator are called SLOTS, not gaps.
Tomato tomahto
Nice video :)
When are you gonna live stream again
that train is an mp15-dc my fav train
Or crammimg it full of weight with free rolling wheels work to ?
So could it be possible to make a slug powered by the gears of its trucks ?
Do you mean try to add a motor directly to the trucks and remove the cab?
I saw that kinda engine before but a different color
Hello smt
Hi
Ah, trains of my yute.
You can almost be able to fix any afternoon because I want you to Quakertown fair in the magnets disappeared and meaning they didn't disintegrate I had the I had bought one that the whole Motors integrated magnets over driveshaft disintegrated to nothing but pretty much almost that thing you can fix it if the motor is attacked it's fixable
*I Have this in O Scale, I think it's an SW 8 IDK Wut it is. Also, IDK which is better:
N Scale
HO Scale
O Scale
or
Live Steamer Gauge (Forgot)
*Vintage is The New UwU (To Me) :3*
Did athern buy revell
Maybe so, they sure look alike.
Mint
put in earbuds and turn your PC vol. up to 100 and you got SMT ASMR
At 100vol xD
linda locomotora cuanto cuesta una locomotora
Hello what type grease do you use.
Labelle 106
I have one that is a 1957 that is the purple Atlantic coast
THe thing you think is fly wheel is actually a clutch!
Looks like an old sw8