Wow!! Two lovely pairs of shoes. I really enjoyed this review, comparing 2 tier one shoes against one another. I think I could be happy for a long time owning these two pair along with your Paolo Scafora STD's from Kostas at The Noble Shoe. I don't know too much about ACME, but this brand seems to be catching the attention of some connoisseurs as of late. I recall Justin Fitzpatrick's review of a pair of ACME suede shoes he spoke very highly of, something along the lines that ACME was as close to bespoke as you could get. As always, thanks for the great content and for candidly sharing your opinions, knowledge and insight. Take good care and wear those beautiful shoes in good health!
I heard back from Acme that the waist is pegged. I’ve looked and looked and I cannot see it. They do a VERY nice job making it completely hidden. Here is their response. We used blind wooden nails for your shoes for stable construction and good looking. We can also do blind stitching, but we don’t think it is the best choice for this kind of hybrid construction shoes Always best to ask when we are unsure.
Beautiful shoes, mate. The focus problems you had before seem to be fixed. A lovely pair of shoes just have to have the finer details shown off. I just commissioned a bespoke pair and have laid down the initial design while they're carving my last. Seeing finer design elements I never considered give me more ideas to bounce around with my shoe maker. Keep sharing your knowledge, my friend. It gives the less experienced like me a window on what we should look out for and ideas on what to have made. .....and on a childish note.... Beep beep...
Thanks George. I’m excited to hear your experience with the bespoke process. I’m doing a few complex MTM or MTOs but haven’t gotten to the bespoke side yet.
Both really cool - love them! On another note; I am looking at Zeb Shoes, guys are based out of Croatia, doing great MTM shoes with lots of customisability at relatively cheap prices. Have you had any experience with Zeb?
Very cool review... Have you ever had norvegese welted shoes recrafted? If so, how much more does it cost and where did you get it done? If not, are you making plans for when that eventually happens?
I haven’t but I don’t think it should significantly increase the cost since the sole attachment doesn’t touch the Norwegian side of the welt. I do have a couple cobblers in mind for that opportunity.
Finding a cobbler that can recreate this type of sole isn’t easy but I know a few that can. The North American Shoe Rebuilders Facebook group has several up to the task. I’d ask for samples of their work. An alternative is sending it back to Acme which is usually an option.
I’ve started using saphir sole guard after the first year of wear but only after the soles start to dry out a bit. I’ve been very fortunate to get 5-10 years from soles even though I wear them in foul weather. I do choose rubber soles when I’ll be out all day, but not for a short walk.
I tried sole guard a couple times but was not impressed. I now use a tad or bick4 on the soles. Leather is way more durable and grippy than people claim; not sure why so many people say leather is so slippery, wear them a bit and they get a bit scuffed up. Thank you WI shoe guy for another informative review- impressive collection btw!
120 is fantastic…although I’ve owned 250! But being in the shoe business and having it as a hobby makes it possible. I have both Saint Crispins and Acme. Saint Crispín is heavier duty construction but Acme is a bit more refined on craft.
Wow!! Two lovely pairs of shoes. I really enjoyed this review, comparing 2 tier one shoes against one another. I think I could be happy for a long time owning these two pair along with your Paolo Scafora STD's from Kostas at The Noble Shoe.
I don't know too much about ACME, but this brand seems to be catching the attention of some connoisseurs as of late. I recall Justin Fitzpatrick's review of a pair of ACME suede shoes he spoke very highly of, something along the lines that ACME was as close to bespoke as you could get.
As always, thanks for the great content and for candidly sharing your opinions, knowledge and insight.
Take good care and wear those beautiful shoes in good health!
I heard back from Acme that the waist is pegged. I’ve looked and looked and I cannot see it. They do a VERY nice job making it completely hidden. Here is their response.
We used blind wooden nails for your shoes for stable construction and good looking.
We can also do blind stitching, but we don’t think it is the best choice for this kind of hybrid construction shoes
Always best to ask when we are unsure.
Beautiful shoes, mate. The focus problems you had before seem to be fixed. A lovely pair of shoes just have to have the finer details shown off. I just commissioned a bespoke pair and have laid down the initial design while they're carving my last. Seeing finer design elements I never considered give me more ideas to bounce around with my shoe maker. Keep sharing your knowledge, my friend. It gives the less experienced like me a window on what we should look out for and ideas on what to have made.
.....and on a childish note.... Beep beep...
Thanks George. I’m excited to hear your experience with the bespoke process. I’m doing a few complex MTM or MTOs but haven’t gotten to the bespoke side yet.
I think you could find some uniqueness buying vintage shoes, which remained in good condition after tens or even over hundred years.
Both really cool - love them! On another note; I am looking at Zeb Shoes, guys are based out of Croatia, doing great MTM shoes with lots of customisability at relatively cheap prices. Have you had any experience with Zeb?
No personal experience though a friend has a pair he likes a lot. At some point I’ll try them.
Happy Lunar new year！
Very cool review... Have you ever had norvegese welted shoes recrafted? If so, how much more does it cost and where did you get it done? If not, are you making plans for when that eventually happens?
I haven’t but I don’t think it should significantly increase the cost since the sole attachment doesn’t touch the Norwegian side of the welt. I do have a couple cobblers in mind for that opportunity.
Thank you for the video, both pairs are beautiful! Do you anticipate any issues resoling the Acme, given that part of the sole may be cemented?
Finding a cobbler that can recreate this type of sole isn’t easy but I know a few that can. The North American Shoe Rebuilders Facebook group has several up to the task. I’d ask for samples of their work. An alternative is sending it back to Acme which is usually an option.
So you obviously wear leather soles in the snow. Do you treat the soles? Sorry if you have a video on this exact topic
I’ve started using saphir sole guard after the first year of wear but only after the soles start to dry out a bit. I’ve been very fortunate to get 5-10 years from soles even though I wear them in foul weather. I do choose rubber soles when I’ll be out all day, but not for a short walk.
I tried sole guard a couple times but was not impressed. I now use a tad or bick4 on the soles. Leather is way more durable and grippy than people claim; not sure why so many people say leather is so slippery, wear them a bit and they get a bit scuffed up. Thank you WI shoe guy for another informative review- impressive collection btw!
100%. I’m not sure why I started using it. Guess in 5 years I’ll know if it did or didn’t matter.
What color is the Acme X? Oxblood or Burgundy?
It’s brown with burgundy highlight patina.
120 shoes?!?! Where do you store that many shoes? 🤪
My office/den.
120 is fantastic…although I’ve owned 250! But being in the shoe business and having it as a hobby makes it possible. I have both Saint Crispins and Acme. Saint Crispín is heavier duty construction but Acme is a bit more refined on craft.
Agree on the acme / St Crispins front. They’re both very nice.