I really liked this video. I see videos by The Audiophiliac and Andrew Robinson and they are reviewing exotic gear that 90% of us will never be able to own and in the case of Robinson, I don't think he actually listens to the stuff he reviews. Your videos are for us "real folk". I bought a Fosi Tube-P1 tube preamp to put in the tape monitor loop of my Harman Kardon HK-3370, 2000 vintage receiver to get that "tube sound". I can instantly switch back and forth and I can't hear a difference. I cranked the bass control up and I use it for those two times a year that I listen to headphones. LOL
I found a video from Andrew and we was going bananas for the 4 speakers in a box from Jamo, saying what a deal for the quality vs the cheap price. He was right I found that deal and was then looking at reviews and found his, so he did review the cheapest $35 speakers out there and gave it high marks for value.
I think you are the future of hifi! Seriously. The audio universe has grown to include a diverse population of enthusiasts and priorities , and audio manufacturers seem to be responding and are wise to be responsive. And I think- therefore, you are making a space for that conversation. So, thank you. Keep doing what are doing
Great video, thank you! For me, this it's the present of HIFI. I bought my first Fosi Audio amplifier not long ago. And I own a used Prius. And I'm 57 y.o. I'm into this hobby for 40 years buying and selling always from a budget perspective. I hope the future brings that incredible gear I'm always thinking I'll own someday, but, for now, I'm happy to see how almost anybody can have a good system nowadays.
The stock power supply is 32v 5a, so it's about 150w roughly speaking. Then you take speaker ohms into account and it works out to roughly 50w per channel. I've got one and it works well
I got the Fosi TB 10A for my bedroom system driving some small Dali bookshelf speakers . The source is my phone via an Arcam doc to a peach tree IDAC . Great little system !
Great analogy on the “gateway”. I started later in life, with some hand me downs. Ended up needing an amp and got a Fosi a few years back. Since then, upgraded to B&W speakers and woah! Impressive, esp with a DAC and running lossless. Fast forward and I went up a tiny bit to Aiyima, and now am literally building a Hypex NCore amp! So to your point, these are amazing for the price and a great way in or honestly to replace most A/B stuff you “think” is great from your past at BestBuy (sorry they do sell nice stuff too). Class D is big and only getting bigger, go for it, esp at ~ $79
I just picked up the TB10D(updated) from Amazon. It's powering a pair of Polk Audio RTI8 speakers. They are louder than ever! I also picked up the new K5 Pro Gaming dac to plug into my PC and then to the TB10D. The quality of the audio is on a different level when compared to anything you would hear from a standard 3.5mm headphone jack. I would highly recommend. The RTI8 can take up to 250W @ 8ohm and I have never heard them hit as hard as they are hitting now.
@@ForeverAnalog The Polk Audio RTI8 lineup is quite “dated” but they still sound phenomenal. It goes to show how well the design was. They are still holding strong 10 years later.
Good job pointing out the strategy of using inexpensive amps. I bought an Akai reel to reel in 1976. It cost 250 dollars, that was a lot of money. I bought stuff piece by piece to build a system. As you point out, today a young enthusiast can get a nice turntable with preamp, use a Fosi to power it and keep looking for higher end stuff. The Fosi can be a baseline to compare with other more expensive unit.
Great review! I bought one because I was curious to see how good it was due to the reviewers raving about it even though I have a $2500 integrated AB amp. I ultimately returned it because I have too much gear but if it was my first or even second amp, I would be totally happy. If I didn’t already have the Aiyima Tube amp set up for atmospheric music, I would’ve kept it for that purpose. The sound is great and the built in EQ works very well to tailor the sound. It also makes for a great gift to someone getting into the hobby.
I have too much gear as well lol. Probably going to unload some smaller amps to my sons in college who want a stereo setup in a small college dorm. Thank you for watching and the kind comment!
@@ForeverAnalogmy dad let me take some gear for my small college dorm. I didn’t know exactly how special it was at the time, but I had a pioneer sx-1250 and a pair of HPM-100s. Barely enough power… to hear the music on the other side of the floor! Good times.
I just subscribed to your channel. You have a great delivery, easy like you’ve been teaching strangers your whole life. Nice work! Looking forward to your future reviews!
Very cool. I love my Fosi and it’s perfect for me. I’m not an audiophile by any means but I do appreciate your review. Thank you for your honest review for people who want just “good” sound.
its not abt sitting at canjam 8hrs trying different silly shaped headphones, more like finding/trying which one sound best for your usages but yeah audio, and pc has grown to mainstream devices nowadays, back then was hard to find good stores let alone good items
i have this amp as my desktop system. i have it paired with Sony SSC5's, couldnt be happier with it. can describe its sound as lively and quite accurate. its not going to shake the walls or anything, but it does have a nice sound. i do wish i would have bought the BT30D for the subwoofer out, though.
I have both the newer Fosi TB10D amp and the Aiyima 07 amp. They are both great for the price. But I like the Aiyima 07 better at the same price (although the Aiyima lacks tone controls).
Can you please tell me why you seem to like the A07 over the fosi tb10d. I have the A07 and planning to get the fosi tb10d but if it is not an upgrade over the A07 there is no point of buying it. Thanks
@@rodplanet5901 Stick with the A07. After playing both, the A07 was better in every respect. Sounds better by far at low and high volume. No contest IMHO.
This video, especially the portin in the Honda lol, was very refreshing. Your analogy of the "gateway drug" was so accurate, I'm a 22 year old hifi enthusiast that has been lucky enough to get some decent hifi gear over the past few years but, years ago it just didn't matter! My first setup was $20 Pyle bookshelf speakers with a hardly working subwoofer and I loved it, if I knew something like this was around I would have easily went after it, even now I am still curious. Great video! Cheers
The power P in watts (W) is equal to the squared voltage V in volts (V) divided by the resistance R in ohms (Ω): So 8ohm speakers on a 24v power supply is about 72w To get the 600w you need 4ohm speakers and the stated maximum voltage input of 48v
Hi fi can be very snobby and put beginners off. I've been playing with audio since I was 17, these little amps would have blown my mind. I'm 65 now my main system is roughly $5k retail and I'm having a ball with these little amps. Good video, good advice. Keep up the good work
I'm thinking of getting one of these to power an old pair of AR94 speakers. I'd like to connect them to my existing stereo system for times I may want additional loudness for like parties so as not to drive my B&W CM2 bookshelf speakers too hard. Those B&Ws are not designed to be loud. I think this would be a good cheap way to pull this off. Thanks for the review.
A True Hifi man and this will be the beginning of my Journey. I got these huge ass Magnavox Speakers on the side of the road, cleaned up the speaker covers and they are 8 ohm passive, came with speaker cable want to mod the speaker connectors cause they're old af this one seems like the ones I need, and I want bluetooth added to this I am looking into this and a few others and they look better I will connect to my pc and I would need to get a USB 3.0 style usb hub before I do anything Douk Audio (and Tubes)
Hi! I just listened to your video on my new (just two weeks old) TB10D using Polk Monitor XT15 speakers 😀 Most of the time I'm using headphones, but in some situations I used 30€ active speakers, and this definitely is a huge upgrade from those. The small size (also for the speakers) was very important for me, because it is sitting on my desktop and shouldn't take up too much space. The included 32V/5A power supply should provide the same output power as the Aiyima A07, so it should be 65W rated into 8ohm (max 70W) and 78W rated into 4ohm (max 80W). With 48W/10A it should give 180W rated into 8ohm (190W max) and 250W rated into 4ohm (300W max).
I have required a vintage Pioneer C90 pre amp and have a Denon 250se integrated amp powering my gear at the moment. Im looking for a power amp to use with the Pioneer C90 , would one off these Fossi amps work well with it seeing its a vintage bit of kit ...
I haven’t personally paired the two, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work well. The good news is these are pretty easy to return if it doesn’t pan out!
ok i have a question whats the use of adding tubes to the class d little amps like the t9 pro??? most say you cant really hear the warm tube tone anyway so whats the point??? selling more of them???gimmick or is there a difference with the tube ones?i think maybe class a is where you can hear a difference .i miss my pioneer sound so maybe i should get both you make it sound like you cant compare old vintage sx pioneer to these class d .i think i would be happy with the t9 pro and little bear i love the looks also but i do miss my pioneer .i have never been able to compare the class d av recievers to my old pioneer but i know there is a difference .any ideas on this dilema? thanks
The tubes are in the gain stage and help with lowering distortion in the noise floor more than provide a 3D holographic tube sound, at least that’s my understanding. The class d amps have easy returns via Amazon if you don’t like them. Pick one up and try it out!
I am just so into older amps. There is nothing like a good 80s or 90s pioneer or Kenwood stack. They sound so much better than Bluetooth. Give me a cassette player/ 6 disk changer.
As I have never owned an expensive AB amp and my speakers are Wharfedale Diamond 9 (just the bookshelf pair), will this Fosi Audio TB10D amp produce the best out of the speakers? Just for reference, I will primarily play the audio from my macbook pro (currently use Tidal with their Lossless audio). Thank you in advance!
I think you will like this amp with the Wharfedales. Whether or not it's "the best" sound is hard to say and part of the audio hobby - always searching for a piece of gear that might be better than the next, lol. The good news is these amps are inexpensive which allows us to move on easily if we find another piece of gear later on that we like better.
Sorry if this has been posted already but another great use for these is as an addition to your current amp. I picked one of these up to power 2 Atmos speakers and it works great. My current amp outputs 11.1 but only powers 9.1 speaker…wtf. Very easy to setup, use and is a relatively inexpensive fix for my mistake (I picked up the last two Atmos speakers before I read my current amps manual doh!)
I like your idea of hifi as a journey, same goes with any experiences like eating in a better and better restaurant or staying in better and better hotels we apreciate more and more refined experiences ( and from mtly experience it is difficult to scale down :) once you tasted the better stuff )
I have you to thanks for the updates and review of these great powerful amplifiers. I have also to thank China hifi industry for making amps affordable to poor folks like me.
Thanks a lot for the review. Can you tell of there if there are more diferences between this one and the BT20A, besides the Bluetooth? Mano thanks and regards from Portugal
These class D amps do have a heatsink mounted on the TI amp chip. Of course, it's much smaller than on an AB amp, because of how class D operates. The claims for power output on these amps is vastly exaggerated. The realistic power output is more like 50W/channel at best.
Agreed. I have both the Aiyima A04 and A07 and when using a 32v 5a power supply on both they push out around 45-50 watts per channel max. My Denon PMA 720 AE is rated at 50watts but pushes a more powerful sound over all than these two small amps but a recent op amp change on the Aiyima A07 gave some very nice results with better instrument separation than the older Denon. I also have a 36v 6a power supply for the A07 but it does not dramatically increase the sound pressure levels. A 48w power supply will push the A07 to max volume output but I personally have no desire to max out this little amp and found either the supplied 32v or 36v to be more than enough for a medium sized room of 4.5m x 4.5m with never getting past 1.00 o’clock on the volume dial before getting uncomfortably loud.
@@PanslapperSo you’re implying that the Aiyima A07 is “better” than the Denon PMA 720 which is a well thought out AB amp for a significantly higher price?
@@user-xg6zz8qs3q …..better? Depends how you look at it. I have just sold my 10 years old 720ae and liked it a lot. It’s a dynamic amp and hits hard. I found the bass a little light on the 720ae. I couldn’t play it without the loudness button on for around 25watts. The tone controls were pretty bad in my opinion. The bass was blurry and the treble added only very little. Source direct was ok but what it did for me was give the amp a degree of more accuracy but also reduced volume quite dramatically. But I still preferred the 720ae over the Marantz 6006 UK edition which I personally thought sounded just plain weak. Now going back to the A07 which I also upgraded with Oracle 02 op amps made a leap forward in instrument separation and overall clarity. Soundstage was not as big as the 720ae nor was the height quite there . The 720ae filled the room better too with an overall fuller sound but again the bass just didn’t have the definition I wanted. I’m now using an Denon DM41 which is better sounding than the 720ae. Better instrument separation and much better bass and treble implementation. I have my A07 as a back up with the Aiyima T6 preamp which also is equipped with the very nice Oracle 02 op amps and a pair of Mullard EF95 valves and yes, a nice sound. My next big amp will probably be another Denon to be honest but one of the later models.
@@Panslapper Thank you so much! This info is hard to get online. People who talk about class D amps only talk about class D amps. My speakers are so easy to drive, they're 91db. So SET tube amps get recommended a lot. I wasted valuable time and money DIYing one, only to achieve a mediocre amp with a 40db constant hum. Piano music is unlistenable. I'm now using a fully serviced AB amp from 1979 (40W) and it's treating me well. It's just a Sanyo rebrand, it looks entry level. And it cost me less than the price of an Aiyima A07 + power supply.
It's interesting to see these types of units finally making inroads to the audiophile space - or maybe it's the YT algorithm deciding to shove all the videos at me. I've been the beneficiary of a class D amp in my bass combo for many years. I couldn't believe the first time I came across one. The class D amp coupled with a lightweight speaker in a small package seemed somehow fake and I couldn't believe how much sound it made. The 12kg 12inch combo easily fills up an average pub. I also have a small class D 100W guitar power amp that has the PSU built in. It's decent. Not loud enough for a full on pub gig. I wonder if these '300W' units with appropriate PSU could run a guitar cab or two. 🤔 So it looks like one of these units will replace my Sony receiver in the near future. I have no space for surround sound anymore and this will sit nicely under the TV.
hello, i have an audio related question, much appreciate if you can help me out on this :D i have Scarlet 2i2 Audio interface i recently bought, and i have 2 sony SSVX333 speakers from early 2000s. and i need to use these speakers as my PC speakers. (i don't see a reason to buy PC speaker setup like Logitech etc etc when these good speakers just laying around) connecting these speakers to the audio interface does nothing. so i guess i need to buy an amplifier. so, can you suggest me some good/cheap amplifiers for this job? (that doesn't make a hiss sound when its in idle?. i mean i used an unbranded cheap amplifier and it had a terrible hiss sound when in idle i couldn't handle it) i can get the PC audio to the amplifier through the audio interface. thank you. also this is a nice video 👍
these units are cheap and fun to use. and they are SMALL . why not ? its all about having fun with what you have. I have lots of big amps but use this for casual listening, and I love it. as always, the way it sounds depends on the quality of the recording you play on it.
You are correct on the cord you need. I might suggest you also look into their BT20A as it comes with Bluetooth so you could easily stream to it! Same price.
Late to the game ... but.... First... are these little amps the future of HiFi ... yeah they likely are. The TPA3255 chip these mini-amps are based on is a true HiFi Class D chip. They are used in all kinds of high end equipment including powered speakers, pro-audio monitors, public address and sound reinforcement tasks. They can also be found in high end AVR systems and the ICEPower modules for high end stereo. But, this is highly dependent on a number of design features these inexpensive amplifiers don't always get right. The main factor in high quality output from TI's chips is the design of the output filters that recover the audio from the high frequency carrier used in Class D. Get this right and these little chip-amps will surprise even the most seasoned audiophiles. I recently put a TB-10D (upgraded version) on my test bench and went over it with a fine toothed comb. What I discovered was an "almost right" design, flawed in 2 key areas... 1) The on-off switch can actually leave the amplifier active in the off position. This is a design error implementing the TPA3255's RESET input which shuts the amplifier down. The test for this is easy for anyone to do ... does it stay warm when turned off? If it does the power switch is not controlling the chip. You would actually be able to play music through the amp with the switch in the off position. 2) The output filters have a design error. This isn't something I would expect a non-technical reviewer or user to find, but there is a problem with the output coils being right up against the chip's heatsink. Coils and big chunks of metal do not get along well and positioning the output coils right against the heat sink is a mistake. First you get excess heat from induction and second it has an effect on the sound quality. Modifying the heat sink to create some space between it and the coils cleared this up very nicely. The amplifier runs cooler and it no longer sounds like it's straining against something that's holding it back. I have, of course, notified Fosi about these issues and presented corrections for both. But I am still waiting to see what (if anything) they do about it. Is the TB-10D a good amplifier ... Yes, it is ... but it could be a fair bit better.
A couple of people have asked me for more information about fixing the problems I found in the TB10D ... so I thought "This is where I stirred the pot, so might as well do this here as well..." First let me caution you... this is not for the feint of heart. If you/ve never done this kind of thing before... find someone who has. 1) Fix, for the power switch problem ... Fosi has fixed this on the latest TB10D version. Look for the Ver2.1 marking on the circuit board. If you have the older version you can fix this by connecting the third (back) pin of the power switch to ground, through a 100 ohm 1/8th watt resistor on the bottom of the board. There is a grounded heat land right near the switch so, 20 seconds with a soldering iron and this problem is gone. 2) Fix for the heat sink and coils problem... This one is definitely not for the timid! First you need to un-mount the heat sink by taking out the two screws on the bottom of the board. It will then lift free. _Be very careful not to lose the two spacers!_ Now we take the heat sink and cut away one fin. I did this with a hacksaw. I just slid the blade down between the first and second fins on one side an _very carefully_ cut the fin off the heatsink. Then used a file to clean up any burrs or ridges. Next you need to clean away all the old heat sink compound on the chip and the sink, and re-apply a small amount on top of the chip. Something about the size of a grain of rice is best. Finally assemble the bolts into the board, put the spacers on the bolts and re-mount the heat sink, so that the missing fin now creates space between the heat sink and the output coils. Tighten the bolts firmly. So, what should you expect from all this? First you will notice the amplifier running much cooler than before, since there won't be any induction heating on the heat sink. You will also notice that the amplifier shuts down correctly when you turn it off. But the big surprise is in the sound quality... channel separation will be greatly improved, the bass will sound much smoother and overall you should get the sense of listening to a much cleaner amplifier. I now use the TB10D in my main system with a pair of Pioneer towers. I like it better than the A07 or the V3. Once again ... if you've never done this before, find someone who has! This is not beginner stuff like flipping op-amps or swapping power supplies.
I imagine what if people who watched a lot of expensive TV made videos about how we can't believe our own eyes when looking at a TV. Instead trust their expert opinion. Beginner watchers vs. expert viewers. It seems ridiculous with eye's, and yet we say "can't believe my eyes" way more than ears. Audiophiles have a stake in the game. Trust your ears. Even older industrial noise compromised ones.
Greetings. I have inherited 2 pairs of speakers built by a very dear friend of mine. He was definitely on the spectrum and took a lot of pride in what he did, so I’m guessing I got 2 pair of very good speakers. Because they matter to me on an emotional level, I want to be even more careful in setting them up. Also, they were stored for several years before being given to me. Any advice or resources would be welcome.
The world is moving forward. The gears that I've now are better and cheaper than those more than 10 years ago. People need to open to new technology and products. Don't be stuck in time.
I went the opposite route. I bought a Tripath T2024 chip mini amp rated at 10W. It sounded pretty good and clean but I wanted more power. So I thrifted a 1979 40W Continental Edison PA9109 (Sanyo rebrand) for 40€ and got it serviced for 87€. To this day I still wonder if something like a Sabaj A10A for 120€ would have been better or worse. I can’t justify buying more amplifiers. And my vintage amp is easy to service if necessary.
I have a Harmon Kardon hk6600 amp (90 Watts/channel); lots of hook ups for phono, video, tape, superb sound when hooked up to my NHT tower speakers. Bought 1991, and nothing that has come out since sounds better ... found only worse quality, with less dynamic sound; that's why audiophiles swear by amps produced 50 years ago. Try watching some repair videos of technicians bringing some of these older amps back to life, and listen to what they have to say. A lot of it is very positive ... for a good reason.
Questions that linger............................................................ 1. During streaming, any Digital/Analog Converter in the signal stream may change the sonic characteristics of the music. Right? In my case and in many others', I also have an Analog/Digital Converter (modem) in my signal stream. Why aren't sonics altered in that device too? Or why isn't it being acknowledged? 2. Why are there so many the very expensive, audiophile RCA patch cords and almost none of the XLR patch cords (cables)? 3. Why aren't loudspeaker crossovers rated for efficiency? Amp watts "in" pre-crossover vs. Amp watts out post crossover all drivers summed. This seems like an important specification. 🔊
@Douglas Blake Hello & thanks for taking the time to write. I've learned more since I wrote that & perhaps you would care to respond again. Here it goes. 3. (I'm taking this one first, because I think this is where we're furthest apart) No, speaker efficiency would be a very poor indicator of crossover efficiency. "... put in 2.8volts (1 watt at 8 ohms)" and get a Db number. Yeah, I understand but there's at least three things being ignored. Cabinet volume, cabinet design and frequency. One can increase loudspeaker Db by decreasing cabinet size. One can also put a driver in a sealed cabinet & increase Db over a larger ported one. One can also increase Db by horn loading one or all of the drivers, all with no wattage increase. Take the midrange driver at 1000Hz, the usual test frequency for loudspeaker efficiency. The result will be Db "X". Now run the test signal at 900 Hz (same wattage) and the result will be Db "X minus a little" because low frequencies need more watts for equal Dbs. What I want to see, is a crossover efficiency standard. Pink noise (20-20K frequency) in at one watt & the resulting pink noise wattage out at the three (woofer, midrange & tweeter) taps. This spec would reveal how well a loudspeaker manufacturer has chosen it's drivers. If the drivers suck, then the crossover engineers will need to add notch filters etc & that would only reduce output capacity by design. Wattage is expensive & I'm not dumping it into an inductor as heat due to a crappy driver. 1. Modems (ADCs) vs. DACs. Many of us have both in the signal stream working simultaneously because cable in from the street is analog. In theory, DACs should all sound the same but we know they don't from listening to them. I'm convinced now that some expensive DAC's circuitry include such things as noise gates & dynamic range expanders which, of course, have nothing to do with conversion. ADCs are ubiquitous. Their form is only practical function. However, when the plethora of offerings occurs, one can be assured they will not all sound the same. 2. RCA patchcords must have shielding from noise. Their design requires it out of necessity. Are they a rip-off? Well, let's just say they suffer from diminishing returns. I agree, purchasing simple quality construction is fair advice. XLR patchcords are a whole different animal (I'm sure you know this). The XLR patchcords are inexpensive. Well, yes, but not really. It's the noise cancelling circuitry on both ends that costs the money. For the money one can save on RCA patchcords, one could buy better components. XLR is the only way to build a system. Tag you're it. 🔈🔉🔊
@Douglas Blake Very good. A solid exchange between hobbyists 😁. Yeah, we're in the same ballpark. Seems I still need some fun time exploring modems. Or not. Have fun 🔈🔉🔊
In a word, no. Class D has a long way to go to match the sound quality and more immersive sound of an A/B amplifier at least in my opinion. I have a class d set up currently utilising the latest op amps, tubes etc and in direct comparison to my class A/B 10 year old Denon amp, it doesn’t match the soundstage, depth or refinement of detail, that doesn’t mean that my class d isn’t a decent system because it actually is, it sounds ok, big bass and clean. The footprint is ultra conservative and as you have said it is extremely efficient. My advice when using these small class d amps is buy something like the Aiyima T6 Pro tube preamp (not expensive either) in doing this you will take out the cold hard edge of digital class d amps. In short it will sound more like an smoother A/B amp.
I disagree. I think class D is getting very close. I do prefer my BasX but my tiny Aiyima A07 is very close and I'm not sure I could differentiate in a blind test.
@@carlsitler9071 I am currently using the Denon 720 as pre amp to the A07 which holds and op amp upgrade from the stock NE5532 to the Oracle 02. Works very well.
This is not bad if your limited on space and want some decent sound but if you do have the space might as well invest a little in some older HiFi gear that will sound 10x Better 😎
I just sent my Fosi TB10D amplifier back to Amazon today. Fosi's description of the device states that it's 600 watts. With the supplied power supply and into 8 ohms, it *might* be 100 watts. I will not buy a different power supply and have to wire it up. Their description is wildly inaccurate and frankly, dishonest.
I was fine with it, I just increased the playback speed a bit. He could keep the chapters specific and short and then at the end include a chapter for sancitmonious stuff.
What I like the most about your videos is that you are always mercilessly honest, and that is exactly what we need. Well done...
Thank you. That means a lot!
I really liked this video. I see videos by The Audiophiliac and Andrew Robinson and they are reviewing exotic gear that 90% of us will never be able to own and in the case of Robinson, I don't think he actually listens to the stuff he reviews. Your videos are for us "real folk". I bought a Fosi Tube-P1 tube preamp to put in the tape monitor loop of my Harman Kardon HK-3370, 2000 vintage receiver to get that "tube sound". I can instantly switch back and forth and I can't hear a difference. I cranked the bass control up and I use it for those two times a year that I listen to headphones. LOL
Thank you! I haven’t tried that P1 yet.
I found a video from Andrew and we was going bananas for the 4 speakers in a box from Jamo, saying what a deal for the quality vs the cheap price. He was right I found that deal and was then looking at reviews and found his, so he did review the cheapest $35 speakers out there and gave it high marks for value.
I think you are the future of hifi! Seriously. The audio universe has grown to include a diverse population of enthusiasts and priorities , and audio manufacturers seem to be responding and are wise to be responsive. And I think- therefore, you are making a space for that conversation. So, thank you. Keep doing what are doing
Thank you!!!
Great video, thank you! For me, this it's the present of HIFI. I bought my first Fosi Audio amplifier not long ago. And I own a used Prius. And I'm 57 y.o. I'm into this hobby for 40 years buying and selling always from a budget perspective. I hope the future brings that incredible gear I'm always thinking I'll own someday, but, for now, I'm happy to see how almost anybody can have a good system nowadays.
Great point. Thank you for watching!
Your end of video preview vid is perfect i have been clicking on the last 3 :D
Thanks! 😊
The stock power supply is 32v 5a, so it's about 150w roughly speaking. Then you take speaker ohms into account and it works out to roughly 50w per channel. I've got one and it works well
Thank you!
I got the Fosi TB 10A for my bedroom system driving some small Dali bookshelf speakers . The source is my phone via an Arcam doc to a peach tree IDAC . Great little system !
Awesome system! Thanks for watching!
Great analogy on the “gateway”. I started later in life, with some hand me downs. Ended up needing an amp and got a Fosi a few years back. Since then, upgraded to B&W speakers and woah! Impressive, esp with a DAC and running lossless.
Fast forward and I went up a tiny bit to Aiyima, and now am literally building a Hypex NCore amp!
So to your point, these are amazing for the price and a great way in or honestly to replace most A/B stuff you “think” is great from your past at BestBuy (sorry they do sell nice stuff too). Class D is big and only getting bigger, go for it, esp at ~ $79
Thank you for watching!
I just picked up the TB10D(updated) from Amazon. It's powering a pair of Polk Audio RTI8 speakers. They are louder than ever! I also picked up the new K5 Pro Gaming dac to plug into my PC and then to the TB10D. The quality of the audio is on a different level when compared to anything you would hear from a standard 3.5mm headphone jack. I would highly recommend. The RTI8 can take up to 250W @ 8ohm and I have never heard them hit as hard as they are hitting now.
Oooh I’ll try to check out those Polks soon!
@@ForeverAnalog The Polk Audio RTI8 lineup is quite “dated” but they still sound phenomenal. It goes to show how well the design was. They are still holding strong 10 years later.
Good job pointing out the strategy of using inexpensive amps. I bought an Akai reel to reel in 1976. It cost 250 dollars, that was a lot of money. I bought stuff piece by piece to build a system. As you point out, today a young enthusiast can get a nice turntable with preamp, use a Fosi to power it and keep looking for higher end stuff. The Fosi can be a baseline to compare with other more expensive unit.
Those Akai decks are nice even today!
@@ForeverAnalog yup, it was a 4000 DS model.
Great review! I bought one because I was curious to see how good it was due to the reviewers raving about it even though I have a $2500 integrated AB amp. I ultimately returned it because I have too much gear but if it was my first or even second amp, I would be totally happy.
If I didn’t already have the Aiyima Tube amp set up for atmospheric music, I would’ve kept it for that purpose. The sound is great and the built in EQ works very well to tailor the sound. It also makes for a great gift to someone getting into the hobby.
I have too much gear as well lol. Probably going to unload some smaller amps to my sons in college who want a stereo setup in a small college dorm. Thank you for watching and the kind comment!
@@ForeverAnalogmy dad let me take some gear for my small college dorm. I didn’t know exactly how special it was at the time, but I had a pioneer sx-1250 and a pair of HPM-100s. Barely enough power… to hear the music on the other side of the floor! Good times.
I just subscribed to your channel. You have a great delivery, easy like you’ve been teaching strangers your whole life. Nice work! Looking forward to your future reviews!
Thank you!!!
Very cool. I love my Fosi and it’s perfect for me. I’m not an audiophile by any means but I do appreciate your review. Thank you for your honest review for people who want just “good” sound.
Awesome. Thank you for watching and the kind words!
its not abt sitting at canjam 8hrs trying different silly shaped headphones, more like finding/trying which one sound best for your usages
but yeah audio, and pc has grown to mainstream devices nowadays, back then was hard to find good stores let alone good items
I use 3 fosi amps for my 6 Dolby Atmos speakers on a anthem avm 70 processor for my home theater they work well.
Awesome!
i have this amp as my desktop system. i have it paired with Sony SSC5's, couldnt be happier with it. can describe its sound as lively and quite accurate. its not going to shake the walls or anything, but it does have a nice sound. i do wish i would have bought the BT30D for the subwoofer out, though.
Thanks for sharing!
I have both the newer Fosi TB10D amp and the Aiyima 07 amp. They are both great for the price. But I like the Aiyima 07 better at the same price (although the Aiyima lacks tone controls).
I have the Aiyima T9 but haven’t heard the 07 yet. Thanks for watching!
the cheap audio man said the upgraded fosi i cleaner than the 07
but there are two version of the 07 it depends which you have
Can you please tell me why you seem to like the A07 over the fosi tb10d. I have the A07 and planning to get the fosi tb10d but if it is not an upgrade over the A07 there is no point of buying it.
Thanks
@@rodplanet5901 Stick with the A07. After playing both, the A07 was better in every respect. Sounds better by far at low and high volume. No contest IMHO.
This video, especially the portin in the Honda lol, was very refreshing. Your analogy of the "gateway drug" was so accurate, I'm a 22 year old hifi enthusiast that has been lucky enough to get some decent hifi gear over the past few years but, years ago it just didn't matter! My first setup was $20 Pyle bookshelf speakers with a hardly working subwoofer and I loved it, if I knew something like this was around I would have easily went after it, even now I am still curious. Great video! Cheers
Thank you for watching and the nice comment. Honestly, I really love that little Honda!
The power P in watts (W) is equal to the squared voltage V in volts (V) divided by the resistance R in ohms (Ω):
So 8ohm speakers on a 24v power supply is about 72w
To get the 600w you need 4ohm speakers and the stated maximum voltage input of 48v
Awesome, thank you!
there is an old guy on yt who opened it up and stuck gauges to the parts and found 50 capacitors so when it his like 51.2 is crashed.
Hi fi can be very snobby and put beginners off. I've been playing with audio since I was 17, these little amps would have blown my mind. I'm 65 now my main system is roughly $5k retail and I'm having a ball with these little amps. Good video, good advice. Keep up the good work
Thank you! I think you’ll like my next video dropping this week 😊
I've also heard people say you should plug the power supply in to the unit before plugging it into the outlet or it can spark.
I'm thinking of getting one of these to power an old pair of AR94 speakers. I'd like to connect them to my existing stereo system for times I may want additional loudness for like parties so as not to drive my B&W CM2 bookshelf speakers too hard. Those B&Ws are not designed to be loud. I think this would be a good cheap way to pull this off. Thanks for the review.
I agree with you 100% - thanks for watching!
A True Hifi man
and this will be the beginning of my Journey. I got these huge ass Magnavox Speakers on the side of the road, cleaned up the speaker covers and they are 8 ohm passive, came with speaker cable
want to mod the speaker connectors cause they're old af
this one seems like the ones I need, and I want bluetooth added to this
I am looking into this and a few others and they look better
I will connect to my pc and I would need to get a USB 3.0 style usb hub before I do anything Douk Audio (and Tubes)
Hi! I just listened to your video on my new (just two weeks old) TB10D using Polk Monitor XT15 speakers 😀
Most of the time I'm using headphones, but in some situations I used 30€ active speakers, and this definitely is a huge upgrade from those.
The small size (also for the speakers) was very important for me, because it is sitting on my desktop and shouldn't take up too much space.
The included 32V/5A power supply should provide the same output power as the Aiyima A07, so it should be 65W rated into 8ohm (max 70W) and 78W rated into 4ohm (max 80W). With 48W/10A it should give 180W rated into 8ohm (190W max) and 250W rated into 4ohm (300W max).
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
I love the Fosi with my vinyl set up! 😊
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
I have required a vintage Pioneer C90 pre amp and have a Denon 250se integrated amp powering my gear at the moment. Im looking for a power amp to use with the Pioneer C90 , would one off these Fossi amps work well with it seeing its a vintage bit of kit ...
I haven’t personally paired the two, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work well. The good news is these are pretty easy to return if it doesn’t pan out!
@@ForeverAnalog thank you
ok i have a question whats the use of adding tubes to the class d little amps like the t9 pro??? most say you cant really hear the warm tube tone anyway so whats the point??? selling more of them???gimmick or is there a difference with the tube ones?i think maybe class a is where you can hear a difference .i miss my pioneer sound so maybe i should get both you make it sound like you cant compare old vintage sx pioneer to these class d .i think i would be happy with the t9 pro and little bear i love the looks also but i do miss my pioneer .i have never been able to compare the class d av recievers to my old pioneer but i know there is a difference .any ideas on this dilema? thanks
The tubes are in the gain stage and help with lowering distortion in the noise floor more than provide a 3D holographic tube sound, at least that’s my understanding. The class d amps have easy returns via Amazon if you don’t like them. Pick one up and try it out!
I am just so into older amps. There is nothing like a good 80s or 90s pioneer or Kenwood stack. They sound so much better than Bluetooth. Give me a cassette player/ 6 disk changer.
I have a ton of vintage gear too!
Really enjoy your channel! Thank you for what you do! 👍👍👍
Thank you, Gino!
The device is operated in AD-mode, and can drive up to 2 x 315 W into 4-Ω load at 10% THD and 2 x 150 W unclipped into 8-Ω load.
How do I know I got the 2nd gen revised version?
They no longer sell the 1st gen
I paid $50 for mine.. I like it.. I swear it sounds as good as any $60 amps I have :)
Awesome!
What's the difference between the bt 20 AS and the bt 20 A , the s version is silver and not black ?
Yes I believe the color is the only difference
Cool , thanks
Ciao, io sono indeciso tra così da2120c , aiyima t9pro , arylic b50
As I have never owned an expensive AB amp and my speakers are Wharfedale Diamond 9 (just the bookshelf pair), will this Fosi Audio TB10D amp produce the best out of the speakers?
Just for reference, I will primarily play the audio from my macbook pro (currently use Tidal with their Lossless audio).
Thank you in advance!
I think you will like this amp with the Wharfedales. Whether or not it's "the best" sound is hard to say and part of the audio hobby - always searching for a piece of gear that might be better than the next, lol. The good news is these amps are inexpensive which allows us to move on easily if we find another piece of gear later on that we like better.
Sorry if this has been posted already but another great use for these is as an addition to your current amp. I picked one of these up to power 2 Atmos speakers and it works great. My current amp outputs 11.1 but only powers 9.1 speaker…wtf. Very easy to setup, use and is a relatively inexpensive fix for my mistake (I picked up the last two Atmos speakers before I read my current amps manual doh!)
Great idea, thank you!
I picked up 4 diffferent little amps like this and power 8 of the 11. I have the lcr on my receiver and they get better power that way.
I have a desktop system with the Fossi Audio BT 10a and a pair of Sony SSCS5 bookshelf speakers and the sound is unbelievable for the cost
Could i trouble you for the knob diameters? I have one of these on the way and i'd like to order some chrome knobs for it :)
@@Douglas_Blake I used my toxic masculinity and got them off fairly easily :P
I like your idea of hifi as a journey, same goes with any experiences like eating in a better and better restaurant or staying in better and better hotels we apreciate more and more refined experiences ( and from mtly experience it is difficult to scale down :) once you tasted the better stuff )
Thank you! Yeah, I can no longer stay in cheap hotels! Lol
I have you to thanks for the updates and review of these great powerful amplifiers. I have also to thank China hifi industry for making amps affordable to poor folks like me.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks a lot for the review.
Can you tell of there if there are more diferences between this one and the BT20A, besides the Bluetooth?
Mano thanks and regards from Portugal
The BT20A has less power but I thought they still sounded very similar.
@@ForeverAnalog thanks a lot. Do you know how can we see if we are buying the upgrade version instead of the old one?
The link on Fosi’s site is the updated version and on Amazon it says Updated in the listing title.
@@ForeverAnalog thanks. Amazon Spain does not say if it is upgraded or not. UK does say. 👍
These class D amps do have a heatsink mounted on the TI amp chip. Of course, it's much smaller than on an AB amp, because of how class D operates. The claims for power output on these amps is vastly exaggerated. The realistic power output is more like 50W/channel at best.
Thanks for the info!
Agreed. I have both the Aiyima A04 and A07 and when using a 32v 5a power supply on both they push out around 45-50 watts per channel max. My Denon PMA 720 AE is rated at 50watts but pushes a more powerful sound over all than these two small amps but a recent op amp change on the Aiyima A07 gave some very nice results with better instrument separation than the older Denon. I also have a 36v 6a power supply for the A07 but it does not dramatically increase the sound pressure levels. A 48w power supply will push the A07 to max volume output but I personally have no desire to max out this little amp and found either the supplied 32v or 36v to be more than enough for a medium sized room of 4.5m x 4.5m with never getting past 1.00 o’clock on the volume dial before getting uncomfortably loud.
@@PanslapperSo you’re implying that the Aiyima A07 is “better” than the Denon PMA 720 which is a well thought out AB amp for a significantly higher price?
@@user-xg6zz8qs3q …..better? Depends how you look at it. I have just sold my 10 years old 720ae and liked it a lot. It’s a dynamic amp and hits hard. I found the bass a little light on the 720ae. I couldn’t play it without the loudness button on for around 25watts. The tone controls were pretty bad in my opinion. The bass was blurry and the treble added only very little. Source direct was ok but what it did for me was give the amp a degree of more accuracy but also reduced volume quite dramatically. But I still preferred the 720ae over the Marantz 6006 UK edition which I personally thought sounded just plain weak. Now going back to the A07 which I also upgraded with Oracle 02 op amps made a leap forward in instrument separation and overall clarity. Soundstage was not as big as the 720ae nor was the height quite there . The 720ae filled the room better too with an overall fuller sound but again the bass just didn’t have the definition I wanted. I’m now using an Denon DM41 which is better sounding than the 720ae. Better instrument separation and much better bass and treble implementation. I have my A07 as a back up with the Aiyima T6 preamp which also is equipped with the very nice Oracle 02 op amps and a pair of Mullard EF95 valves and yes, a nice sound. My next big amp will probably be another Denon to be honest but one of the later models.
@@Panslapper Thank you so much! This info is hard to get online. People who talk about class D amps only talk about class D amps. My speakers are so easy to drive, they're 91db. So SET tube amps get recommended a lot. I wasted valuable time and money DIYing one, only to achieve a mediocre amp with a 40db constant hum. Piano music is unlistenable. I'm now using a fully serviced AB amp from 1979 (40W) and it's treating me well. It's just a Sanyo rebrand, it looks entry level. And it cost me less than the price of an Aiyima A07 + power supply.
It's interesting to see these types of units finally making inroads to the audiophile space - or maybe it's the YT algorithm deciding to shove all the videos at me.
I've been the beneficiary of a class D amp in my bass combo for many years. I couldn't believe the first time I came across one. The class D amp coupled with a lightweight speaker in a small package seemed somehow fake and I couldn't believe how much sound it made. The 12kg 12inch combo easily fills up an average pub.
I also have a small class D 100W guitar power amp that has the PSU built in. It's decent. Not loud enough for a full on pub gig. I wonder if these '300W' units with appropriate PSU could run a guitar cab or two. 🤔
So it looks like one of these units will replace my Sony receiver in the near future. I have no space for surround sound anymore and this will sit nicely under the TV.
They are very convenient for small places that cannot allow for a traditional receiver! Thanks for watching!
Where can I get that artwork?
Nathan McKee is the artist
hello, i have an audio related question, much appreciate if you can help me out on this :D
i have Scarlet 2i2 Audio interface i recently bought, and i have 2 sony SSVX333 speakers from early 2000s.
and i need to use these speakers as my PC speakers. (i don't see a reason to buy PC speaker setup like Logitech etc etc when these good speakers just laying around)
connecting these speakers to the audio interface does nothing. so i guess i need to buy an amplifier.
so, can you suggest me some good/cheap amplifiers for this job? (that doesn't make a hiss sound when its in idle?. i mean i used an unbranded cheap amplifier and it had a terrible hiss sound when in idle i couldn't handle it)
i can get the PC audio to the amplifier through the audio interface.
thank you. also this is a nice video 👍
I didn't notice any hissing with this amplifier. I think any of the affordable class D amps like Fosi, Aiyima or Topping, would do.
@@ForeverAnalog ah i see. thank you very much 🥰
BT20A or TB10D for Klipsch R-41M Bookshelf Speakers?
Either will sound good on those speakers but if you would like Bluetooth, pick the BT20A
Great video. Very well said.
Thank you!
Fosi T20 or Fosi TB10D? Which one is better?
If you want Bluetooth streaming option go with T20
@@ForeverAnalogI don't need Bluetooth. Which amplifier sounds better from the line input - Fosi T20, Fosi TB10D or Fosi T3?
I don’t have FS so I’d go with TB10D
these units are cheap and fun to use. and they are SMALL . why not ? its all about having fun with what you have. I have lots of big amps but use this for casual listening, and I love it. as always, the way it sounds depends on the quality of the recording you play on it.
I totally agree! Thank you for watching!
is this a DAC as well or have a DAC?
No DAC just an amp with one input.
@@ForeverAnalog thanks, do I need a Dac? or my Iphone as input with RCA to 3.5 will work as a source correct ?
You are correct on the cord you need. I might suggest you also look into their BT20A as it comes with Bluetooth so you could easily stream to it! Same price.
Late to the game ... but....
First... are these little amps the future of HiFi ... yeah they likely are. The TPA3255 chip these mini-amps are based on is a true HiFi Class D chip. They are used in all kinds of high end equipment including powered speakers, pro-audio monitors, public address and sound reinforcement tasks. They can also be found in high end AVR systems and the ICEPower modules for high end stereo.
But, this is highly dependent on a number of design features these inexpensive amplifiers don't always get right. The main factor in high quality output from TI's chips is the design of the output filters that recover the audio from the high frequency carrier used in Class D. Get this right and these little chip-amps will surprise even the most seasoned audiophiles.
I recently put a TB-10D (upgraded version) on my test bench and went over it with a fine toothed comb. What I discovered was an "almost right" design, flawed in 2 key areas...
1) The on-off switch can actually leave the amplifier active in the off position.
This is a design error implementing the TPA3255's RESET input which shuts the amplifier down.
The test for this is easy for anyone to do ... does it stay warm when turned off? If it does the power switch is not controlling the chip. You would actually be able to play music through the amp with the switch in the off position.
2) The output filters have a design error.
This isn't something I would expect a non-technical reviewer or user to find, but there is a problem with the output coils being right up against the chip's heatsink. Coils and big chunks of metal do not get along well and positioning the output coils right against the heat sink is a mistake. First you get excess heat from induction and second it has an effect on the sound quality. Modifying the heat sink to create some space between it and the coils cleared this up very nicely. The amplifier runs cooler and it no longer sounds like it's straining against something that's holding it back.
I have, of course, notified Fosi about these issues and presented corrections for both. But I am still waiting to see what (if anything) they do about it.
Is the TB-10D a good amplifier ... Yes, it is ... but it could be a fair bit better.
A couple of people have asked me for more information about fixing the problems I found in the TB10D ... so I thought "This is where I stirred the pot, so might as well do this here as well..."
First let me caution you... this is not for the feint of heart. If you/ve never done this kind of thing before... find someone who has.
1) Fix, for the power switch problem ...
Fosi has fixed this on the latest TB10D version. Look for the Ver2.1 marking on the circuit board. If you have the older version you can fix this by connecting the third (back) pin of the power switch to ground, through a 100 ohm 1/8th watt resistor on the bottom of the board. There is a grounded heat land right near the switch so, 20 seconds with a soldering iron and this problem is gone.
2) Fix for the heat sink and coils problem...
This one is definitely not for the timid! First you need to un-mount the heat sink by taking out the two screws on the bottom of the board. It will then lift free. _Be very careful not to lose the two spacers!_
Now we take the heat sink and cut away one fin. I did this with a hacksaw. I just slid the blade down between the first and second fins on one side an _very carefully_ cut the fin off the heatsink. Then used a file to clean up any burrs or ridges.
Next you need to clean away all the old heat sink compound on the chip and the sink, and re-apply a small amount on top of the chip. Something about the size of a grain of rice is best.
Finally assemble the bolts into the board, put the spacers on the bolts and re-mount the heat sink, so that the missing fin now creates space between the heat sink and the output coils. Tighten the bolts firmly.
So, what should you expect from all this?
First you will notice the amplifier running much cooler than before, since there won't be any induction heating on the heat sink. You will also notice that the amplifier shuts down correctly when you turn it off. But the big surprise is in the sound quality... channel separation will be greatly improved, the bass will sound much smoother and overall you should get the sense of listening to a much cleaner amplifier.
I now use the TB10D in my main system with a pair of Pioneer towers. I like it better than the A07 or the V3.
Once again ... if you've never done this before, find someone who has! This is not beginner stuff like flipping op-amps or swapping power supplies.
I really liked this video
Maybe you ought to try a more comfortable setting? (So not to knock your wall art around) 😊
I’ve never bumped into it lol.
Some of those little amps have
'op amps' you can change that and get even a better sound for cheap
Yep!
What's up with the minor threat picture
Art by Nathan McKee!
Minor Threat!
@@AllroyAllroy I'm labeled a major threat , that is why the feds locked me up for 3 years , Suicidal Tendencies
Dog Town life . Merry Christmas
I imagine what if people who watched a lot of expensive TV made videos about how we can't believe our own eyes when looking at a TV. Instead trust their expert opinion. Beginner watchers vs. expert viewers. It seems ridiculous with eye's, and yet we say "can't believe my eyes" way more than ears. Audiophiles have a stake in the game. Trust your ears. Even older industrial noise compromised ones.
Greetings. I have inherited 2 pairs of speakers built by a very dear friend of mine. He was definitely on the spectrum and took a lot of pride in what he did, so I’m guessing I got 2 pair of very good speakers.
Because they matter to me on an emotional level, I want to be even more careful in setting them up. Also, they were stored for several years before being given to me.
Any advice or resources would be welcome.
The world is moving forward. The gears that I've now are better and cheaper than those more than 10 years ago. People need to open to new technology and products. Don't be stuck in time.
Good point, thank you!
I went the opposite route. I bought a Tripath T2024 chip mini amp rated at 10W. It sounded pretty good and clean but I wanted more power. So I thrifted a 1979 40W Continental Edison PA9109 (Sanyo rebrand) for 40€ and got it serviced for 87€. To this day I still wonder if something like a Sabaj A10A for 120€ would have been better or worse. I can’t justify buying more amplifiers. And my vintage amp is easy to service if necessary.
I have a Harmon Kardon hk6600 amp (90 Watts/channel); lots of hook ups for phono, video, tape, superb sound when hooked up to my NHT tower speakers. Bought 1991, and nothing that has come out since sounds better ... found only worse quality, with less dynamic sound; that's why audiophiles swear by amps produced 50 years ago. Try watching some repair videos of technicians bringing some of these older amps back to life, and listen to what they have to say. A lot of it is very positive ... for a good reason.
Questions that linger............................................................
1. During streaming, any Digital/Analog Converter in the signal stream may change the sonic characteristics of the music. Right? In my case and in many others', I also have an Analog/Digital Converter (modem) in my signal stream. Why aren't sonics altered in that device too? Or why isn't it being acknowledged?
2. Why are there so many the very expensive, audiophile RCA patch cords and almost none of the XLR patch cords (cables)?
3. Why aren't loudspeaker crossovers rated for efficiency? Amp watts "in" pre-crossover vs. Amp watts out post crossover all drivers summed. This seems like an important specification. 🔊
@Douglas Blake Hello & thanks for taking the time to write. I've learned more since I wrote that & perhaps you would care to respond again. Here it goes.
3. (I'm taking this one first, because I think this is where we're furthest apart) No, speaker efficiency would be a very poor indicator of crossover efficiency.
"... put in 2.8volts (1 watt at 8 ohms)" and get a Db number. Yeah, I understand but there's at least three things being ignored. Cabinet volume, cabinet design and frequency.
One can increase loudspeaker Db by decreasing cabinet size. One can also put a driver in a sealed cabinet & increase Db over a larger ported one. One can also increase Db by horn loading one or all of the drivers, all with no wattage increase.
Take the midrange driver at 1000Hz, the usual test frequency for loudspeaker efficiency. The result will be Db "X". Now run the test signal at 900 Hz (same wattage) and the result will be Db "X minus a little" because low frequencies need more watts for equal Dbs.
What I want to see, is a crossover efficiency standard. Pink noise (20-20K frequency) in at one watt & the resulting pink noise wattage out at the three (woofer, midrange & tweeter) taps. This spec would reveal how well a loudspeaker manufacturer has chosen it's drivers. If the drivers suck, then the crossover engineers will need to add notch filters etc & that would only reduce output capacity by design. Wattage is expensive & I'm not dumping it into an inductor as heat due to a crappy driver.
1. Modems (ADCs) vs. DACs. Many of us have both in the signal stream working simultaneously because cable in from the street is analog.
In theory, DACs should all sound the same but we know they don't from listening to them. I'm convinced now that some expensive DAC's circuitry include such things as noise gates & dynamic range expanders which, of course, have nothing to do with conversion.
ADCs are ubiquitous. Their form is only practical function. However, when the plethora of offerings occurs, one can be assured they will not all sound the same.
2. RCA patchcords must have shielding from noise. Their design requires it out of necessity. Are they a rip-off? Well, let's just say they suffer from diminishing returns. I agree, purchasing simple quality construction is fair advice.
XLR patchcords are a whole different animal (I'm sure you know this).
The XLR patchcords are inexpensive. Well, yes, but not really. It's the noise cancelling circuitry on both ends that costs the money. For the money one can save on RCA patchcords, one could buy better components. XLR is the only way to build a system.
Tag you're it. 🔈🔉🔊
@Douglas Blake Very good. A solid exchange between hobbyists 😁.
Yeah, we're in the same ballpark. Seems I still need some fun time exploring modems. Or not.
Have fun
🔈🔉🔊
@Douglas Blake Mod/DeMod.. got it. And Cheers 😁
Wise words at 15 minutes in.
Thank you for watching!
Just buy a bluetooth reciever transmitter (it's cheap) and you can make it wireless
In a word, no. Class D has a long way to go to match the sound quality and more immersive sound of an A/B amplifier at least in my opinion. I have a class d set up currently utilising the latest op amps, tubes etc and in direct comparison to my class A/B 10 year old Denon amp, it doesn’t match the soundstage, depth or refinement of detail, that doesn’t mean that my class d isn’t a decent system because it actually is, it sounds ok, big bass and clean. The footprint is ultra conservative and as you have said it is extremely efficient. My advice when using these small class d amps is buy something like the Aiyima T6 Pro tube preamp (not expensive either) in doing this you will take out the cold hard edge of digital class d amps. In short it will sound more like an smoother A/B amp.
I disagree. I think class D is getting very close. I do prefer my BasX but my tiny Aiyima A07 is very close and I'm not sure I could differentiate in a blind test.
@@carlsitler9071 ….i find sometimes my ears will prefer one over the other and vice versa so I don’t hold bias towards any. Keep an open ear!
@@carlsitler9071 I am currently using the Denon 720 as pre amp to the A07 which holds and op amp upgrade from the stock NE5532 to the Oracle 02. Works very well.
kinder garden stuff you play with
This is not bad if your limited on space and want some decent sound but if you do have the space might as well invest a little in some older HiFi gear that will sound 10x Better 😎
Yep not gonna argue there! Thanks for watching!
10 times better is a stretch. these little amps for $60 gets a person 60-70% there. Then and a grand for each 5%-10% for that last 30.
I just sent my Fosi TB10D amplifier back to Amazon today. Fosi's description of the device states that it's 600 watts. With the supplied power supply and into 8 ohms, it *might* be 100 watts.
I will not buy a different power supply and have to wire it up.
Their description is wildly inaccurate and frankly, dishonest.
Its the future and demise of true hi-fidelity.
You don't need a pre-amp, just a switcher or source switching box.
Review started fine then turned into a sanctimonious piece of crap. I good reviewer would actually make a review of the product.
I was fine with it, I just increased the playback speed a bit. He could keep the chapters specific and short and then at the end include a chapter for sancitmonious stuff.
too much TALKING!!!!
Too much talk that we don't need. Needlessly lengthy videos.
Noted, thank you!
all you have to do is go to settings and increase the speed of the playback. I do that to most yt videos.
I think he had some useful info for newbies