I have had and used a T-7 for about 18 years, and I thank you two gentlemen for opening my eyes to truly making the better use of the machine, I did buy the fine diamond wheel and I find it to be perfect. I always finish my "micro-bevels" on stones, but I find that the 600 grit, alone, produces very reliable edges. WHen I am done with my edges, nobody has ever asked for better. Both of my shoulders need "titanium" replacement, so I plan on buying the Japanese waterstone.
Still waiting for them to put a small radius on the corners. Would not reduce any usability and would be a little more forgiving. Great videos as usual.
Hej Sharpaholic-1 you can sharpen a slightly camper on your blade, see the film from David Charlesworth, highly recommended, best explanation of the SE-77: th-cam.com/video/Bfd-xzOF5sc/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUXZGF2aWQgY2hhcmxlc2VvdGggU0UtNzc%3D
Thats a good idea! I'll write it down in our list of idéas for future episodes. Stay sharp! You can sharp the card scraper / cabinet scraper with help of the SVD-110 Tool Rest. Just use it flat on the jig, Use the jig upside down, so that the turning direction of the wheel is pressing the scraper against the tool rest. Se analog in the engl. handbook on page 119.
If I have the t8 with the standard stone wheel but later acquire the diamond wheel, does the owners manual provide the jig reference number that I would need to sharpen using the flat side if the wheel? I am still considering buying the t8 to replace my dmt sharp diamond stones ranging in grit from coarse to extra extra fine.
Hi! I'm not quite sure what you mean by a jig reference number for sharpening on the side.. Are you possibly talking about angles? Your best bet is to send an email to support@tormek.se with any questions, and well help you find the best solutions for your needs. Stay sharp!
Is there any issue flattering a chisel on the side, with different speeds, i.e been faster in the middle to the edges of the wheel? basically will it sharpen the edge closer to the centre faster?
Hej kevin webster, as you said the speed and more "Diamonds" are at the perifery, and therefore it should be faster, but due the jig, which gives you a guiding there is an even removal of the steel. To minimize the effect, if you want, you choose a very narrow possition along and lengthwise the radius. /Wolfgang
So far I own only SG-250 stone, which is fine for my needs. As professional carpenter, sharpening chisels and plane irons is my primary task. Hollow grind is generally fine for my work, but occasionally I might like to flatten the back of an old chisel as the first step to restoring it, possibly by using the side of the stone. Should I avoid such use, even if it is minimal? Will it damage my stone?
Hi Michael, Glad to hear you are pleased with your machine! This is a good question, and I'd say it's up to you really. It can be done, of course, but it will wear the side of the stone eventually. That will probably not affect sharpenining on the top of the stone at all. However, you will not have a guarenteed flat surface for the backs of chisels after some wear. I have seen people truing the side of the stone which is possible a coule of times with the MB-100 Multi Base and the TT-50 Truing Tool, but I haven't tried it myself so it's therefore nothing i can recommend. Hope this somewhat ambiguous answer was to some help at least. Best wishes, and stay sharp! /Hugo and the Tormek team
@@TormekSharpening Thank you for your helpful reply. I bought basic T8 with the idea that sharpening the simple square-edged tools of my trade would be the extent of my use. But after I forced myself to study the manual and also watch hours of YT Tormek videos before allowing myself to work with my new machine, my view of the machine and my investment has expanded dramatically. I am all in for Tormek and have already assembled a very focused set of jigs and accessories that will enabled me to sharpen virtually every type of cutting edge in my life, both professional and personal. Aiming at maximum flexibilty and also efficiency, I have already added a second support (US-430) so that both grinding stone and honing wheel can be simultaneously set to coordinated distances corresponding to a given edge angle and tool edge projection from a jig. This makes my chisel and plane iron sharpening particularly quick, eliminating setup in between sharpening steps altogether. Also, by mounting US-430 to the grinding stone side, I have discovered an unanticipated benefit, namely that I needn't remove the jig with tool inserted from the support in order to inspect it as sharpening proceeds. Instead, the US-430 support extends out far enough to the left of the stone so that the jig with tool mounted can be rotated vertically (like a propeller) through 360 degrees, enabling close and convenient inspection of the edge without ever removing the jig from the bar. And because I have mounted my dual support Tormek to the rotating base, I also needn't move a single step away from my operating position. I am finding that for me Tormek is not best used as a total replacement for other sharpening methods I have used previously in my career. Instead, it is the star of a well-coordinated ensemble of players. In particular, addition of BGM-100 to my arsenal, which I did not know existed when buying T8, has altered my original plan to retire my high speed dry grinder. Instead, this accessory extends the value of all my Tormek jigs while addressing a slight weakness of the standard stone: even after grading to 200, SG-250 is not really capable of quick removal of large amounts of metal, as in repairing an abused edge. BGM-100 has allowed me to integrate my high speed grinder as a first step in such a restoration process, quickly doing the rough phase of the work before it can be passed on to the T8. With respect to the question I posed above, I have already found that flattening chisel backs on the side of SG-250 is not ideal. If this operation were a constant need or if I needed flat grinds, I would pick up DF-250 and MB-100. But for now, I will continue to flatten irons either on my Japanese water stone or on a sheet of plate glass. I've been sharpening my tools for almost fifty years as a professional finish carpenter and cabinetmaker. I am capable of creating a sharp equal to what my Tormek system can do by other methods. But the best aspects of working with Tormek are the flexibilty and efficiency engineered into its modular design. These qualities make sharpening totally stress-free. I can already see that because Tormek makes sharpening so easy, I will be sharpening more often, with more consistent results, and spending less time doing so.
Hej Spike, yes, you can sharpen either a flat grind or a hollow grind with the SE-77 Square Edge Jig. If you tool is to short i recommend to sharpen it on the outsied due the jig touches not the surface of the wheel.
Hi George! It can sharpen them, but so far it is really hard to get good, consistant results, so it is nothing we recommend. Let us know if you decide to give it a try and how it goes! 😊 Stay sharp!
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you Wolfgang and Sebastian, great job!
Thank you very much!
I have had and used a T-7 for about 18 years, and I thank you two gentlemen for opening my eyes to truly making the better use of the machine, I did buy the fine diamond wheel and I find it to be perfect. I always finish my "micro-bevels" on stones, but I find that the 600 grit, alone, produces very reliable edges. WHen I am done with my edges, nobody has ever asked for better. Both of my shoulders need "titanium" replacement, so I plan on buying the Japanese waterstone.
Thank you for the great feedback. We are happy that you liked the video and learned something. 😀
Stay sharp & safe!
//Tormek
Great video, many thanks for sharing
Hej Rupert Hartop, Thank you!
thank you very good info
Always glad to help! :)
Still waiting for them to put a small radius on the corners. Would not reduce any usability and would be a little more forgiving. Great videos as usual.
Hej Sharpaholic-1 you can sharpen a slightly camper on your blade, see the film from David Charlesworth, highly recommended, best explanation of the SE-77:
th-cam.com/video/Bfd-xzOF5sc/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygUXZGF2aWQgY2hhcmxlc2VvdGggU0UtNzc%3D
How do you flatten the back of a chisel using the side of the diamond wheel
Hej Scott, just guide it flat on the outside of the wheel. Please check the engl. handbook on page 122.
can it be used with normal wheel stone or just diamond wheels ?
Please do a demonstration of sharpening a card scraper.
Thats a good idea! I'll write it down in our list of idéas for future episodes. Stay sharp!
You can sharp the card scraper / cabinet scraper with help of the SVD-110 Tool Rest. Just use it flat on the jig, Use the jig upside down, so that the turning direction of the wheel is pressing the scraper against the tool rest. Se analog in the engl. handbook on page 119.
If I have the t8 with the standard stone wheel but later acquire the diamond wheel, does the owners manual provide the jig reference number that I would need to sharpen using the flat side if the wheel? I am still considering buying the t8 to replace my dmt sharp diamond stones ranging in grit from coarse to extra extra fine.
Hi! I'm not quite sure what you mean by a jig reference number for sharpening on the side.. Are you possibly talking about angles? Your best bet is to send an email to support@tormek.se with any questions, and well help you find the best solutions for your needs. Stay sharp!
Is there any issue flattering a chisel on the side, with different speeds, i.e been faster in the middle to the edges of the wheel? basically will it sharpen the edge closer to the centre faster?
Hej kevin webster, as you said the speed and more "Diamonds" are at the perifery, and therefore it should be faster, but due the jig, which gives you a guiding there is an even removal of the steel. To minimize the effect, if you want, you choose a very narrow possition along and lengthwise the radius. /Wolfgang
So far I own only SG-250 stone, which is fine for my needs. As professional carpenter, sharpening chisels and plane irons is my primary task. Hollow grind is generally fine for my work, but occasionally I might like to flatten the back of an old chisel as the first step to restoring it, possibly by using the side of the stone. Should I avoid such use, even if it is minimal? Will it damage my stone?
Hi Michael,
Glad to hear you are pleased with your machine!
This is a good question, and I'd say it's up to you really. It can be done, of course, but it will wear the side of the stone eventually. That will probably not affect sharpenining on the top of the stone at all. However, you will not have a guarenteed flat surface for the backs of chisels after some wear. I have seen people truing the side of the stone which is possible a coule of times with the MB-100 Multi Base and the TT-50 Truing Tool, but I haven't tried it myself so it's therefore nothing i can recommend.
Hope this somewhat ambiguous answer was to some help at least. Best wishes, and stay sharp!
/Hugo and the Tormek team
@@TormekSharpening Thank you for your helpful reply. I bought basic T8 with the idea that sharpening the simple square-edged tools of my trade would be the extent of my use. But after I forced myself to study the manual and also watch hours of YT Tormek videos before allowing myself to work with my new machine, my view of the machine and my investment has expanded dramatically. I am all in for Tormek and have already assembled a very focused set of jigs and accessories that will enabled me to sharpen virtually every type of cutting edge in my life, both professional and personal.
Aiming at maximum flexibilty and also efficiency, I have already added a second support (US-430) so that both grinding stone and honing wheel can be simultaneously set to coordinated distances corresponding to a given edge angle and tool edge projection from a jig. This makes my chisel and plane iron sharpening particularly quick, eliminating setup in between sharpening steps altogether. Also, by mounting US-430 to the grinding stone side, I have discovered an unanticipated benefit, namely that I needn't remove the jig with tool inserted from the support in order to inspect it as sharpening proceeds. Instead, the US-430 support extends out far enough to the left of the stone so that the jig with tool mounted can be rotated vertically (like a propeller) through 360 degrees, enabling close and convenient inspection of the edge without ever removing the jig from the bar. And because I have mounted my dual support Tormek to the rotating base, I also needn't move a single step away from my operating position.
I am finding that for me Tormek is not best used as a total replacement for other sharpening methods I have
used previously in my career. Instead, it is the star of a well-coordinated ensemble of players. In particular, addition of BGM-100 to my arsenal, which I did not know existed when buying T8, has altered my original plan to retire my high speed dry grinder. Instead, this accessory extends the value of all my Tormek jigs while addressing a slight weakness of the standard stone: even after grading to 200, SG-250 is not really capable of quick removal of large amounts of metal, as in repairing an abused edge. BGM-100 has allowed me to integrate my high speed grinder as a first step in such a restoration process, quickly doing the rough phase of the work before it can be passed on to the T8.
With respect to the question I posed above, I have already found that flattening chisel backs on the side of SG-250 is not ideal. If this operation were a constant need or if I needed flat grinds, I would pick up DF-250 and MB-100. But for now, I will continue to flatten irons either on my Japanese water stone or on a sheet of plate glass.
I've been sharpening my tools for almost fifty years as a professional finish carpenter and cabinetmaker. I am capable of creating a sharp equal to what my Tormek system can do by other methods. But the best aspects of working with Tormek are the flexibilty and efficiency engineered into its modular design. These qualities make sharpening totally stress-free. I can already see that because Tormek makes sharpening so easy, I will be sharpening more often, with more consistent results, and spending less time doing so.
can you flatten the back of a chisel on the side of diamond wheel ?
Yes, that would work. 😊
Can you sharpen Japanese plane blades with this?
Hej Spike, yes, you can sharpen either a flat grind or a hollow grind with the SE-77 Square Edge Jig. If you tool is to short i recommend to sharpen it on the outsied due the jig touches not the surface of the wheel.
Hair sheer blades?
Hi George! It can sharpen them, but so far it is really hard to get good, consistant results, so it is nothing we recommend. Let us know if you decide to give it a try and how it goes! 😊 Stay sharp!