We need more American instructors like this guy. His methods are clear and to--the--point. I have watched hundreds of HVAC video and all were complicated, unprofessional, and confusing. But AC Service Tech video is in a league of its own. AC Service Tech is the best!
I went to HVAC school back in 2011 to get EPA card and Certificate. With your book and videos I could have probably just attended once a week for the tests. Thanks
Thanks for this video. I posted in another video how techs and my mentor are using the 30 deg rule on all refrigerant, not just R22. They are using it with 404, 407, 422, 410. Bad habit and I will no longer be a bad tech. Thanks.
The video is great. I bought the book this year and it is fantastic. It has already saved me a whole bunch of money. Keep up the good work. In these Covid-19 times we are living through, distance learning is the preferred method, and your books and videos are just the ticket for this distance learning model.
Hi Gary, I invested on your Book and Workbook and look forward to learning a lot. Your video are really professional, thank God we have you teaching newbies like me.
Never used that method to check the charge but i was told that the AIR going in to the condenser should be 30⁰ higher coming out of the condenser. The problem is if the condenser is dirty it could give a false positive. I feel it is safer to just hook up and checkat least the first time then use non-invasive testing after a baseline is created to prevent future refrigerant loss and possible contamination. Thanks again as always!
What I would like to know is how did the engineers come up with the 25 - 30F numbers? It stands to reason, that if you have an ambient of 100F, and you have a coil of 120F, you are going to have a cooling issue, so you are trying to use air of 100F to cool off a hot condenser that is running 120F. It seems that in effect, you are superheating the ambient air. If on the other hand, the coil is still 120F (based on the liquid line saturated pressure) and the ambient is 90F, now that makes a lot more sense, the air you are using to cool the condenser is cooler than the condenser itself. I was helping a contractor who got a complaint from a restaurant that the building was not cool enough. The first thought, not enough refrigerant. He then became to believe the condenser was bad, so he replaced the entire condenser from the split unit. The building didn't get any cooler. I then made measurements of the airflow at the supply duct, the airflow at the return duct, the temperature differences, and calculated the btu's per hour. As it turned out, the AC unit was working perfectly, putting out what it's nameplate indicated. The building was simply under-airconditioned. I don't believe they had make-up air in the kitchen, strike one. Second, there was no insulation in the attic. The thermostat got confused, it was not in the eating area, but right around the corner from the hot kitchen. They ended up adding more insulation to the attic and above the suspended ceiling, that helped. I always appreciate your videos, that was an excellent subject. Jim
emptech . Restaurant kitchens are .. hmm disastrous! With flour, steam, oil and sugar floating through the air they really need a high fresh air content, huge exhaust fan above ovens, prep tables and dishwashers The evap coil gets coated regardless of filtering. In cooling may show up as low pressure or under charged. I’d just about encourage a system with 100% outside air
I've been using Ambient+ methods to eyeball charge and coil cleanliness since 2009. The first time I made a repair on a brand new high efficiency 410a heat pump, weighed the charge in, and saw it running an ambient+ 10 my mind was blown. As far as actually checking charge is concerned, I have always used superheat/subcooling but when you are doing huge commercial accounts and every minute counts, the Ambient+ on the head combined with a delta (low delta, normal head, normal suction generally is indicative of low charge and dirty condenser and low delta, low head, low suction is obviously indicative of very low charge and a possible dirty condenser) will tell you pretty quick if you need to slap pipe probes on and check the charge. It also helps if you wave your hand over the condenser fan(s) while they are running and feel the angle they are discharging air at. If the air is almost blowing out horizontal that condenser is plugged or someone mounted the blade(s) wrong (it happens more often than you think, especially in commercial where building owners/leasers jump between contractors every five minutes). The ambient rules are absolutely fabulous for judging whether or not you need to clean/split and clean condenser coils at accounts that opt for T&M coil cleanings. You just need to be able to identify the rough SEER rating of the equipment you are working with. These little tricks can save you massive amounts of time on maintenances and, knock on wood, have never caused callbacks for me in all the years I've been doing this. In fact, I'm known for being one of the more thorough service techs where I work and generally quote more necessary repairs (don't be a hater, I never quote things that don't need replaced. My company does not give us spiffs for selling shit) and have less callbacks than anyone else and at least 50% of what I do is eyeballing, poking, and twisting things haha! In fact, I can't remember the last time I had a callback for leaving a unit run low on charge.
Low Delta, normal head, normal suction= low charge and dirty coil. So, for this does it mean both low charge and dirty coil? Also, this is counting on that all stages are working?
@@La2venida refer to the basics man. If you don’t know if your coils are clean then clean them. If dirt pours out then clean them until no dirt comes out. After that superheat, subcool, delta, and static tell you everything you need to know
Craig, The method I utilize for checking the R22 charge in my AC(non-heat pump,Goodman, electric heat,10SERR, 4ton, with fixed piston) is total enthalpy removed. Taking the DB and WB of the air entering the return air and the DB and WB for the supply air and enter those readings in to a digital psychrometric chart, a 6.7BTUs of enthalpy for pound of dry air is the desired reading. I am omitting many details that you know about and enter into the digital psychrometric chart. These charts can easily be found on the WEB and used at no cost. With is in mind, I check the superheat and determine the correct superheat from the temps. and pressures, as shown in this video. This method corresponds to your video. Thanks for your excellent and correct information.
Thanks for the video,my conclusion is that it is better to go by superheat or subcooling depending on the metering device.,as this would be more accurate.
ideally as close as you can get to the evap on the return side of the system to cancel out and heat gain if the ducts are running in unconditioned space
Purchased all your books..not easy working Full time on a nursing facility not able to practice my Hvac skills.. getting rusty through the years..Need to go out and take some Part time outside work in the real world..need to refresh my troubleshooting skills.thanks for your videos..Any videos on Drake chillers?
I always use superheat and subcooling. The target superheat method is the best. Other techs have charged systems that I got called back on and customers have noticed a big difference between me and the others and always request me now.
Good information. I only use the 30 degree rule for determining what the saturation temperature/pressure should be. On suction saturation the 35 degree DTD could be used for a approximate pressure/temperature reading (AC coils only ) . If I'm wrong please correct me.
Any guide for charging units in winter time? (Heat pumps) r-22 and r-410a.location for lineset temp probes to be placed while in heat mode and checking charge.
What I tell techs is when charging using sub cooling, they will find the liquid line will cool (go solid) @ approx 20-30 deg above ambient on the gauge. It was just an approximate and as a matter of fact, w/ assuming a clean coil and correct CF motor. I really never gave much thought with an accurator used with a TXV. I'd prob do superheat as a precaution, and subcooling to figure it out. Good vid but will be over the heads of most jr. and some senior techs!
I have a question. Are you saying that the 11 degrees of superheat should be the target "total" superheat? It is my understanding that the temperature you arrived at would reflect the superheat just at the outlet of the evaporator. Wouldn't the superheat reading at the inlet of the compressor be higher - taking into consideration heat gain from the ambient, friction and length of line set - than a reading taken at the evaporator? In which case, if I am correct, what would be the best method of determining what the "total" superheat should be at the compressor? I read somewhere that a reading of less that 20 degrees on an 80 to 95 degree day would indicate an overcharge (not having checked sub cooling) or air flow problem. I look forward to your response. Thanks!
Great explanation. I am at the end of my first semester in HVAC, and find myself wondering if I missed something along the way in these past months. I totally get the theory behind the basic function of the refrigeration cycle. But...I still find myself frustrated at not understanding the how and why of changes in one part of the system, say low evaporator charge, affects the function and measurements at say the compressor discharge port. I understand THAT change ( or imbalance) at one point does or should produce an effect in another location in the system, but I am not confident I understand WHY or HOW that effect occurs. Is there a video that you guys have made that explains that energy teeter totter for novices like me?
I was in the process of ordering a bundle and paying through PayPal when I ran into a problem. The total listed by PayPal was too low to qualify for PayPal Credit, but when i returned to your website to confirm, there was now a big shipping charge that would have qualified the order for PayPal Credit. You need to fix this.
R-22 and piston metering: Total SH method / vapor line temp - saturated vapor temp at evap (manifold dial) = actual SH / then compare to target SH calulated using ID WB and OD DB temps cross-referenced on a R-22 piston target SH chart.
Thank you for this. Assuming I know whether I have a piston or TXV inside and check the airflow inside, can this all be done (checking and regassing or topping off) without entering the building? Thank you
Sir we always use danfoss Expansion Valve but at some place we want to reduce the cost of the machinery so we want to use capillary tube but there was a big problem arises we don't know what is the formula to calculate the size of capillary tube according to the temperature that we want ? Please sir make a video on this.
Hello. I follow you from Turkey. The videos are very nice and helpful. But I don't understand you very much. I wish there was subtitles. The information you've provided is really important.
quick question, Does the refrigerant calculator tell you how much refrigerant for the entire empty system or is it just how much extra you may need for the line-set?
Superheat and subcooling let's the technician know how much refrigerant is in the evaporator coil(superheat)(indoor) condensor coil(subcooling)(outdoor). If a TXV is being used as the metering device the method he is using will not work. Just pistons and orifice metering device. The chart he was using gives him a target number to let him know both coils are filled with the right amount of refrigerant and the system is working at its max efficiency (as far as dealing with refrigerant). Most units will have a factory charge number labeled on its data plate and that is only good for 15' of line set. If you have an split system you can go outside and check the data plate on your unit and it should be on there. You use this as a basis when weighing in refrigerant and it let's you know how much refrigerant is in the coil from the factory. For every bend in copper such as a 90° angle will add 5 extra feet to the lineset total. If your lineset is long with a lot of bends the guessing game begins on how much refrigerant to add to the unit. That's why you have a chart like he was using. You could have a 30' lineset with 15 90° bends in the lineset but that chart doesn't care and will let him know the level of refrigerant in the coils and how much to add. There are some other variations but I hope I kind of explained it ok. A quick answer to your question is the chart lets him know how much refrigerant he needs to add for the entire system to work for what it was designed for.
@@canman1088 I appreciate the reply, I know all of this already maybe my comment left a little ambiguity, but I was referring to the calculator tool he said is free to use on his website I have countless mobile apps that does the same thing so I was wondering if his was different in anyway, but your explanation was on point 💪
@@bago49 there's many different superheat charging charts out there. google it and you will see. The numbers may vary a bit here or there but for the most part if you just follow one you should be "close enough for comfort" ;)
When I first started in the HVAC/R field (1975), it was Ambient + 35°. I have noticed with the higher SEER, that is not correct. BUT....Ambient + XX is a "general rule" for diagnosing of which I still use today. SC & SH obviously is far more accurate.
The reasoning behind the inquiry of the plus 30 or plus 25 rule is because older technicians As well as teachers are still teaching these rules to their students or apprentices.
Who uses long hoses and an analog gauge? You can also use this on a 404A system they still teach it heat craft teachers 30 above ambient on a 404 walking cooler walk in freezer.
Thank you for your interest! The Ebook is in epub format so you can read it with an ereader on your phone, tablet, or computer. The sample pages and full outline are at www.acservicetech.com/ac-book thanks
👍👍👍. Most importantly the old technicians who been in the field 20 to 40 years need more training and education then the new technicians just coming into the field. “NEED TO CUT OFF THE THUMBS OF OLD TECHNICIANS WHO USE THE RULE OF THUMB!!!....”) And worse yet they teach it to their young new guys to come work with them.
t lech REALLY, who do you think kept your folks comfortable before you were born, us Old Techs did. HVAC in general covers a vast amount of technology and changes over the years, it doesn’t matter the age of the Technician we are all in the same boat, CONSTANTLY LEARNING with the new technology and advancements
Our Website for Videos, Calculators, Podcasts, Articles, Quizzes, Q/A, Products: www.acservicetech.com
Facebook Tips: facebook.com/acservicetech
Tools we use, Our Book, Workbook, and Quick Cards: www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Our E-book, Paperback, Workbook, Quick Cards, Powerpoint, www.acservicetech.com/ac-book
Our E-book: play.google.com/store and search "ac service tech"
Spanish E-book: www.acservicetech.com
/store
This is what means someone is competent in his field or domain. Knowledge is beautiful, thanks sir for this video again👍.
So nice of you
We need more American instructors like this guy. His methods are clear and to--the--point. I have watched hundreds of HVAC video and all were complicated, unprofessional, and confusing. But AC Service Tech video is in a league of its own. AC Service Tech is the best!
Yep, the dude is definitely solid. With great skill and explanations.
I'm Korean and I always enjoy good lectures, thank you
Craig, always appreciate the immense amount of knowledge you share with us! God bless you! And I’ll be picking up that ebook soon to support you !
Awesome! Thank you! God Bless!
I went to HVAC school back in 2011 to get EPA card and Certificate. With your book and videos I could have probably just attended once a week for the tests. Thanks
I am really glad that the resources are helping. I certainly put a lot of time into them so it is really nice to hear that they are valued!
iam trying to get my certificate online
istart at 16yrs old iam now 62 yrsold
Thanks for this video. I posted in another video how techs and my mentor are using the 30 deg rule on all refrigerant, not just R22. They are using it with 404, 407, 422, 410. Bad habit and I will no longer be a bad tech. Thanks.
The video is great. I bought the book this year and it is fantastic. It has already saved me a whole bunch of money. Keep up the good work. In these Covid-19 times we are living through, distance learning is the preferred method, and your books and videos are just the ticket for this distance learning model.
Thank you very much Michael!
Hi Gary, I invested on your Book and Workbook and look forward to learning a lot. Your video are really professional, thank God we have you teaching newbies like me.
Awesome, thank you!
Good stuff 🤘⚡️🤘
Thanks! 😁
Never used that method to check the charge but i was told that the AIR going in to the condenser should be 30⁰ higher coming out of the condenser. The problem is if the condenser is dirty it could give a false positive.
I feel it is safer to just hook up and checkat least the first time then use non-invasive testing after a baseline is created to prevent future refrigerant loss and possible contamination.
Thanks again as always!
What I would like to know is how did the engineers come up with the 25 - 30F numbers? It stands to reason, that if you have an ambient of 100F, and you have a coil of 120F, you are going to have a cooling issue, so you are trying to use air of 100F to cool off a hot condenser that is running 120F. It seems that in effect, you are superheating the ambient air. If on the other hand, the coil is still 120F (based on the liquid line saturated pressure) and the ambient is 90F, now that makes a lot more sense, the air you are using to cool the condenser is cooler than the condenser itself.
I was helping a contractor who got a complaint from a restaurant that the building was not cool enough. The first thought, not enough refrigerant. He then became to believe the condenser was bad, so he replaced the entire condenser from the split unit. The building didn't get any cooler. I then made measurements of the airflow at the supply duct, the airflow at the return duct, the temperature differences, and calculated the btu's per hour. As it turned out, the AC unit was working perfectly, putting out what it's nameplate indicated. The building was simply under-airconditioned. I don't believe they had make-up air in the kitchen, strike one. Second, there was no insulation in the attic. The thermostat got confused, it was not in the eating area, but right around the corner from the hot kitchen. They ended up adding more insulation to the attic and above the suspended ceiling, that helped.
I always appreciate your videos, that was an excellent subject.
Jim
emptech . Restaurant kitchens are .. hmm disastrous! With flour, steam, oil and sugar floating through the air they really need a high fresh air content, huge exhaust fan above ovens, prep tables and dishwashers The evap coil gets coated regardless of filtering.
In cooling may show up as low pressure or under charged.
I’d just about encourage a system with 100% outside air
I've been using Ambient+ methods to eyeball charge and coil cleanliness since 2009. The first time I made a repair on a brand new high efficiency 410a heat pump, weighed the charge in, and saw it running an ambient+ 10 my mind was blown. As far as actually checking charge is concerned, I have always used superheat/subcooling but when you are doing huge commercial accounts and every minute counts, the Ambient+ on the head combined with a delta (low delta, normal head, normal suction generally is indicative of low charge and dirty condenser and low delta, low head, low suction is obviously indicative of very low charge and a possible dirty condenser) will tell you pretty quick if you need to slap pipe probes on and check the charge. It also helps if you wave your hand over the condenser fan(s) while they are running and feel the angle they are discharging air at. If the air is almost blowing out horizontal that condenser is plugged or someone mounted the blade(s) wrong (it happens more often than you think, especially in commercial where building owners/leasers jump between contractors every five minutes). The ambient rules are absolutely fabulous for judging whether or not you need to clean/split and clean condenser coils at accounts that opt for T&M coil cleanings. You just need to be able to identify the rough SEER rating of the equipment you are working with. These little tricks can save you massive amounts of time on maintenances and, knock on wood, have never caused callbacks for me in all the years I've been doing this. In fact, I'm known for being one of the more thorough service techs where I work and generally quote more necessary repairs (don't be a hater, I never quote things that don't need replaced. My company does not give us spiffs for selling shit) and have less callbacks than anyone else and at least 50% of what I do is eyeballing, poking, and twisting things haha! In fact, I can't remember the last time I had a callback for leaving a unit run low on charge.
Low Delta, normal head, normal suction= low charge and dirty coil. So, for this does it mean both low charge and dirty coil? Also, this is counting on that all stages are working?
Low delta, low suction low head=very low charge and possibly dirty coil. So would this be definitely low charge?
@@La2venida refer to the basics man. If you don’t know if your coils are clean then clean them. If dirt pours out then clean them until no dirt comes out. After that superheat, subcool, delta, and static tell you everything you need to know
Wow Nice video
I love this channel
❤❤❤❤
Glad you enjoy it!
Craig, The method I utilize for checking the R22 charge in my AC(non-heat pump,Goodman, electric heat,10SERR, 4ton, with fixed piston) is total enthalpy removed. Taking the DB and WB of the air
entering the return air and the DB and WB for the supply air and enter those readings in to a digital
psychrometric chart, a 6.7BTUs of enthalpy for pound of dry air is the desired reading. I am omitting many details that you know about and enter into the digital psychrometric chart. These charts can easily be found on the WEB and used at no cost. With is in mind, I check the superheat and determine the correct superheat from the temps. and pressures, as shown in this video. This method corresponds to your video. Thanks for your excellent and correct information.
one of the best learning channels, very informative and straightforward.
but sir can I ask why we use the subcooling method when there is a TXV?
Haha, I love how all of the Yellow Jacket branding has been removed from those gauges and hoses! What's the reason for that?
Thanks for the video,my conclusion is that it is better to go by superheat or subcooling depending on the metering device.,as this would be more accurate.
Another great video. So take the wet bulb near the return air grill?
ideally as close as you can get to the evap on the return side of the system to cancel out and heat gain if the ducts are running in unconditioned space
Purchased all your books..not easy working Full time on a nursing facility not able to practice my Hvac skills.. getting rusty through the years..Need to go out and take some Part time outside work in the real world..need to refresh my troubleshooting skills.thanks for your videos..Any videos on Drake chillers?
you could teach more in 10 minutes than my trade school instructor could teach in an entire semester
I am really glad that these videos and the website resources are helping, thanks!
Txv subcooling. Fixed orifice superheat.
Ambient plus 30 is not always accurate. Good video
I always use superheat and subcooling. The target superheat method is the best. Other techs have charged systems that I got called back on and customers have noticed a big difference between me and the others and always request me now.
Thank you so much. Is there a set of ambient rule temperatures set for R410a?
Good information. I only use the 30 degree rule for determining what the saturation temperature/pressure should be. On suction saturation the 35 degree DTD could be used for a approximate pressure/temperature reading (AC coils only ) . If I'm wrong please correct me.
I'd like to know how much refrigerant had to be added to get a proper charge, and how high above ambient the high side sat. temp was then.
Very good advice and explained.
Glad it was helpful!
can you also determine correct charge by the 18-20 degree split differential inside?
thank you for sharing! love your videos keep em" rolling!...
Thanks, will do!
Any guide for charging units in winter time? (Heat pumps) r-22 and r-410a.location for lineset temp probes to be placed while in heat mode and checking charge.
What I tell techs is when charging using sub cooling, they will find the liquid line will cool (go solid) @ approx 20-30 deg above ambient on the gauge. It was just an approximate and as a matter of fact, w/ assuming a clean coil and correct CF motor. I really never gave much thought with an accurator used with a TXV. I'd prob do superheat as a precaution, and subcooling to figure it out. Good vid but will be over the heads of most jr. and some senior techs!
Great instructions👌
Glad it was helpful!
As always very interesting ....thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a question. Are you saying that the 11 degrees of superheat should be the target "total" superheat? It is my understanding that the temperature you arrived at would reflect the superheat just at the outlet of the evaporator. Wouldn't the superheat reading at the inlet of the compressor be higher - taking into consideration heat gain from the ambient, friction and length of line set - than a reading taken at the evaporator? In which case, if I am correct, what would be the best method of determining what the "total" superheat should be at the compressor?
I read somewhere that a reading of less that 20 degrees on an 80 to 95 degree day would indicate an overcharge (not having checked sub cooling) or air flow problem. I look forward to your response. Thanks!
Thank you sir
All the best
Would the Ambient Temp Sensor be in the correct position IF the Sun was shining on it ? Please advise. Ted.
Thanks for the clarification
Happy to help
Great Video. Have a nice weekend. Thank you for sharing ^_^
Thank you! You too!
Great explanation. I am at the end of my first semester in HVAC, and find myself wondering if I missed something along the way in these past months. I totally get the theory behind the basic function of the refrigeration cycle. But...I still find myself frustrated at not understanding the how and why of changes in one part of the system, say low evaporator charge, affects the function and measurements at say the compressor discharge port. I understand THAT change ( or imbalance) at one point does or should produce an effect in another location in the system, but I am not confident I understand WHY or HOW that effect occurs. Is there a video that you guys have made that explains that energy teeter totter for novices like me?
If you need sone mentoring you can reach out to me. Just let me know
Good stuff as always!
Glad you enjoyed!
Great video that's why love my Testo 557's
Thanks for your videos, you're a great professional,is there an Italian version of your amazing book?
I was in the process of ordering a bundle and paying through PayPal when I ran into a problem. The total listed by PayPal was too low to qualify for PayPal Credit, but when i returned to your website to confirm, there was now a big shipping charge that would have qualified the order for PayPal Credit. You need to fix this.
Love it! Keep sharing the good thoughts, know it to know why its not the best way. 🍻 rico
Absolutely!!
Great job and video
Thanks for the visit
R-22 and piston metering: Total SH method / vapor line temp - saturated vapor temp at evap (manifold dial) = actual SH / then compare to target SH calulated using ID WB and OD DB temps cross-referenced on a R-22 piston target SH chart.
A A410A system. Fixed orifice. With superheat of 15. Went to, In an hour, down to 4. With subcooling of 9. The superheat of 4 rises a concern correct?
Thank you for this. Assuming I know whether I have a piston or TXV inside and check the airflow inside, can this all be done (checking and regassing or topping off) without entering the building? Thank you
Very good video!
Thank you very much!
After the above, I’ll always check the unit in heat mode. As long as ambient allows it.
In order to leave the job in confidence .
Can you please tell me exact temperature low side and high side
Is it vapor coming low side and high side. Please send the answer for the question
This really helped a lot!
Sir we always use danfoss Expansion Valve but at some place we want to reduce the cost of the machinery so we want to use capillary tube but there was a big problem arises we don't know what is the formula to calculate the size of capillary tube according to the temperature that we want ? Please sir make a video on this.
What about refrigerant 410A is there any rule to get that close
As always, Good Stuff.
Appreciate that
Good stuff,straight to the point
Hello. I follow you from Turkey. The videos are very nice and helpful. But I don't understand you very much. I wish there was subtitles. The information you've provided is really important.
quick question, Does the refrigerant calculator tell you how much refrigerant for the entire empty system or is it just how much extra you may need for the line-set?
Superheat and subcooling let's the technician know how much refrigerant is in the evaporator coil(superheat)(indoor) condensor coil(subcooling)(outdoor). If a TXV is being used as the metering device the method he is using will not work. Just pistons and orifice metering device. The chart he was using gives him a target number to let him know both coils are filled with the right amount of refrigerant and the system is working at its max efficiency (as far as dealing with refrigerant). Most units will have a factory charge number labeled on its data plate and that is only good for 15' of line set. If you have an split system you can go outside and check the data plate on your unit and it should be on there. You use this as a basis when weighing in refrigerant and it let's you know how much refrigerant is in the coil from the factory. For every bend in copper such as a 90° angle will add 5 extra feet to the lineset total. If your lineset is long with a lot of bends the guessing game begins on how much refrigerant to add to the unit. That's why you have a chart like he was using. You could have a 30' lineset with 15 90° bends in the lineset but that chart doesn't care and will let him know the level of refrigerant in the coils and how much to add. There are some other variations but I hope I kind of explained it ok. A quick answer to your question is the chart lets him know how much refrigerant he needs to add for the entire system to work for what it was designed for.
@@canman1088 I appreciate the reply, I know all of this already maybe my comment left a little ambiguity, but I was referring to the calculator tool he said is free to use on his website I have countless mobile apps that does the same thing so I was wondering if his was different in anyway, but your explanation was on point 💪
@@bago49 there's many different superheat charging charts out there. google it and you will see. The numbers may vary a bit here or there but for the most part if you just follow one you should be "close enough for comfort" ;)
When I first started in the HVAC/R field (1975), it was Ambient + 35°. I have noticed with the higher SEER, that is not correct. BUT....Ambient + XX is a "general rule" for diagnosing of which I still use today. SC & SH obviously is far more accurate.
What can you suggest on doing when you can't get access to view the coil to know what metering device it has?
Snips.
Can you please make a superheated charging chart with degrees Celsius. Please this will mean a lot .
Thank you!
Nice
Thanks
شكرا لك اخي العزيز
Nice work. Now explain that to every. Customer you service.
You are good!!!!
Thank you,
Craig, great information! Completely hit home. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
The reasoning behind the inquiry of the plus 30 or plus 25 rule is because older technicians As well as teachers are still teaching these rules to their students or apprentices.
Who uses long hoses and an analog gauge? You can also use this on a 404A system they still teach it heat craft teachers 30 above ambient on a 404 walking cooler walk in freezer.
Sir I want to these books PDF.
Thank you for your interest! The Ebook is in epub format so you can read it with an ereader on your phone, tablet, or computer. The sample pages and full outline are at www.acservicetech.com/ac-book thanks
As always 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I appreciate that
Holy shit you have so much knowledge
👍👍
If you wrote down the things you've told, write it down. We'll translate from there.
Mercisivousmanvoyeenfrance
Tradictionenfrance
Ur wasting latex gloves good video otherwise
👍👍👍. Most importantly the old technicians who been in the field 20 to 40 years need more training and education then the new technicians just coming into the field. “NEED TO CUT OFF THE THUMBS OF OLD TECHNICIANS WHO USE THE RULE OF THUMB!!!....”) And worse yet they teach it to their young new guys to come work with them.
t lech REALLY, who do you think kept your folks comfortable before you were born, us Old Techs did. HVAC in general covers a vast amount of technology and changes over the years, it doesn’t matter the age of the Technician we are all in the same boat, CONSTANTLY LEARNING with the new technology and advancements
Lol you're a joke... old school technicians I'm more than sure will run circles you and me they're worth their weight in gold
Can you please make a superheated charging chart with degrees Celsius. Please this will mean a lot