For those of you wanting to replace your shell the one thing this video doesn’t show is how to remove the gps antenna. It is the easiest part of the disassembly. That’s shielding isn’t putty, it’s an adhesive copper shielding tape. It pulls off very easily and isn’t very fragile stuff. Underneath are 4 screws and it’s off. The tape is sticky enough to reuse on your new shell. This whole process takes a couple of minutes. I hope this helps.
Brilliant, I understood every word. Not too deep for me to grasp but important stuff when considering buying one of these as I like to mend my own things. Thanks very much.
SD Card is a black box, can also do a boot flash. Like most drone flight controllers, the onboard SD Card stores flight logs. Idea being originally if you had a crash because something burned out it would store data like "communication error ESC 3" but it can also store input / telemetry data. The part that scares people is the fact it also has your data on it because a lot of DJI drones require you to activate it.
after watching this video, i think you can upgrade the radio module antena( 5.8ghz) and the wifi antenas too to upgrade the range, with that mode and DBS or ARGtek mod in the RC controller you can get 5km with the standard!
Yes I agree Kriss987, 5 km out of a Phantom 3 Standard is impossible, oh btw watch this th-cam.com/video/8yqsre9Q5Q8/w-d-xo.htmland also this th-cam.com/video/DSvHsgV5XGs/w-d-xo.htmlHumble pie will be served after coffee, just before the cheese platter :o)
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the ESC board (I think you called it PCB) The SD card on the bottom is an 8gb memory card. You were correct when you said you may not be able to read it. Last year when I replaced my board I wanted to see what was on the card. My computer could read the card but I could not see a file on it. Interesting stuff.
I took mine out and read it on the PC; it's the detailed flight logs stored on the drone. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
Hello, I really enjoyed the video and your explanation! I wanted to ask please do you know what the white stuff that holds the compass (2:16) is? And what is the white substance/glue that holds the wires of the motors (5:50)? Thanks in advance
that was so precise and accurate. Very articulate and you went over all the major stuff and answered so many questions without boring me you were totally understandable. Bravo I think you missed your calling. but I broke my black and grey and tenant and it crashed and repaired the gimbal myself. The connectors are too small to make. So I need you to take it one step further and continue that video. LOL PS is that what I should be doing question mark replacing the whole antenna with a coax ipx cable at the end?
Thank you for the great video. It was really helpful. I do have a question: There is some cracking under the motor arm. There is cracking is in between the four T8's. Is the cracking going to be catastrophic?
Hi, i also had a crash and pulled the grey wire out of the connector on the gimbal. Have the new 2.4g wifi antenna arriving tomorrow and trying to work out how to install. From watching this video is seems like i am going to have to do a full teardown even removing the board in order to access the area that it lives in... do you know any other easier ways to be able to get in there and access it. Another question - the black wire is still connected and i was ablet o fly the drone with just it and not the grey one. Does this just mean that my range will be limited so in a pinch i can keep flying it as it is but should replace the grey one? thanks
And don't you think the sd card underneath is for storing compass and imu data? I would imagine it would be because it probably needs to store the data from all the calibrations.
Subscribed & a nice Video. I have a Phantom 3 SE that flys for a minute and falls to the ground after all 4 motors stops suddenly itself. Camera was damaged a while ago so i removed it and the gimble is still connected to the drone properly secured and wired. Is there a fix for this or is this a common problem or is it because the the camera is detached. Any help from anyone would be great.
Very Detailed, Thankyou. I'm a noob so hopefully this isn't a Duh... Question. Are the motors meant to sit slightly askew in there cradles. I recently bought some Prop protectors and in putting the motors back into the Drone, I noticed they dont sit perfectly up & Down. Once back together the cheap knockoff Prop Guides hit the props... stupid to buy knockoffs I know. Anyway Is this designed so or did I screw up the re-installation?
Hi, thanks for your video! I need a bit of your help. My phantom got crashed and since that I lose connection very common. What cable do you think I have to check if it got out or damaged of the main board?? Thanks! and good videos!
RadRider33, how hard is it to take the battery carriage out as well? I need to replace the gray ribbon cable that goes to the camera. Is it possible to do that with out removing the board and battery carriage? Thanks.
Otra cosa del botoncito, lleva la placa una marca blanca para indicar que hay que colocarlo ¿cómo? tengo que cambiar uno y veo que tienen polaridad, por debajo llevan dos marcas redondas en un lado que en el otro no lo llevan, y alorificio central que hay también en ambos lados menores del rectángulo, que se ven también por debajo son diferentes uno claro y otro más oscuro, aquí tengo 50 piezas que adquirí a 2 euros; estaba pensando que el lado de los dos circulos es el que va a la parte de la marca redonda que hay en la placa ¿sabes su polaridad exacta? GRACIAS
+Jack Sohachevsky right? according to phantompilots forum it's got the flight logs on it. There wouldn't have been much on mine since it hadn't been flown :p
I took mine out and read it on the PC; it's the detailed flight logs stored on the drone. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
Is it possible that the antenna connectors come loose? I'm asking because I have been getting random drops in 5.8 GHz connectivity. Now, they did start when I installed my ARGtek kit, but I redid the connection on that one 3 times now, always putting on hot glue to keep the plug in place. The question is: Could it be that a connecter inside the drone came a bit loose and has an unsecure connection, or did I get a bad antenna kit?
Yes, high dielectric rubber cement should be applied to prevent vibrations and minor knocks from shaking them loose. Also the cables that run to the board should be glued to protect the connectors. Visually inspect the row of solder joints running on both sides of the IMU assembly where it meets the main board. Look for a line in the solder joint it may apear darker in color than the rest of the solder. If you find any this should be remade using a high quality flux and lead free solder following ESD protection when in contact with the board. If your having issues check and bond the IMU FFC cable (amber in color, but sometimes black or blue) and comes from the IMU down to the sub-assembly
Thanks for the advice, although I actually fixed my issue. It appears that one of the antenna connectors (luckily just that, not a sotered connection) was loose. I put it on properly with a little pressure and applied hot glue that should help keep it in position (in addition to the glue that was on the cable). The problem hasn't appeared again since then. It probably originated when I dropped my drone one time (I'm gonna be the next Linus soon...).
Very good, yes all of the connectors on the DJI P3, P4 Mavic and Spark and aggra (only ones I have been inside) are complete rubbish and should be checked, bonded and taped with a vue to minimizing vibration. I appreciate you dropped it, however with moderate bangs these very important connectors should not come loose in the first place. I am glad you got her sorted.
The SD card probably has the Linux filesystem in it. It doesn't make sense to have anything secret or obscure in it, specially when they are saving money with screws.
i disagree about the solder. Considering sending drones into DJI is so time consuming and there are very few reliable repair centers you can actual go to I would highly prefer some connectors that have some secondary bracket that prevents them from disconnecting in flight. Even if you do know how to solder well the white glue is very hard to come by if you can even get it and it is very difficult to create that perfect spherical solder connection. I like to repair my drones if necessary and I do but it would be so much easier if it was just a simple plug and play with no risk of damage.
it's how you access the detailed flight logs stored on the drone SD card, which he shows on the bottom of the main board in the video. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
RadRider33 Thanks. the app foes not tell anything. i made sure to re position the gps connection i side the drone. it gives interrupted beeb sound with yellow and red lights
RadRider33 when you connect youre cumputer to the micro usb plug on the front of the drone (not the camera plug) then you can read the sd card but not the data but i think its like a black box that keeps all youre flight information, so that when u crash dji can find out what wen wrong
A common mistake when working on these is damage to SFC mount components or track damage caused by the tooling required to open the shell. That would be the first place I would look.
Correct. And use only quality torx screw drivers that have hardened tips because the four T-8 screws that are closest to the landing gear are a real bear to loosen. Everyday 1/4 inch drive torx bits will not even fit in the screw recesses.
Hey, would you mind if I could e-mail you about your current experience at university/college in electrical engineering? I don't have any knowledge or practical experience concerning electronics and I would love to get more involved because I also want to study electrical engineering too! :)
+hobby Interesting...I suppose that makes sense, since all the P3's use the same battery, and the Standard has less electronics (specifically the lack of the high-power LightBridge) and less weight (no ultrasound module). Whoop!
¿por que no describes la piececita botón de reinicio o de hacer contacto con la emisora? el botoncito que hay debajo de la placa y se acciona por el orificio lateral del fantón, es muy importante, sale en las imágenes en 9,54 segundos, abajo junto a un lez que se ilumina al conectarlo y se ve verde o rojo o parpadea? según modelos supongo, no se si además ese botoncito reinicia a valores de fábrica el chisme digo dron,?? Sé que sirve para, caso de desconexión, se que si se desconecta de la emisora, le busca la frecuencia pulsando 2 segundos dicho botocito, al tiempo que se accitivan dos mandos a la vez en el receptor, proceso que se puede hacer con la tablet, desde el programa en restablecer emisora, en su control. Ese botób, ojo es muy delicado, si se rompe no funciona el chisme pierde la señal, solo se encienden las luces verde traseras, etc y pone que se pulsa desde abajo con un palito, ojo que te lo cargas que no resiste mas presión que un pulso pequeño,, alguno le aprieta fuerte y le deja averiado y da problemas, si se rompe no funcionan más que las luces de adelante y poco más, así que no se puede conectar no recibe señal y no van los mandos
gracias, bueno es saberlo, en un tutorial pone que sirve para conectar la emisora en caso de perdida de la señal, así que igual la función es diferente, si es un 3 4k un 3, estandar, el 3 profesional o algún otro fanton 3, algunas carcasas no tienen ese orificio, así que lo mismo no lo tienen todos??
Poor soldering at points of failure leading to fly away are the IMU sub assembly mount points to main board, the ffc connector from IMU is the wrong type for this application. Connector ports are soldered and no vibration dampening adhesive is used. Differences in frequencies of oscillation between the main board and the cables leads to the failure of the solder joint at the connector as nothing protects these joints. Telemetry, video or control drop's are the most common symptoms, nav issues and the drone getting its own mind are others. When your SUA vanishes due to one of these failures I am sorry to say DJI will not care about your problems. **edit** The SD card is the deep data flight recorder for your aircraft, clearly DJI where anticipating problems as this is a removable media . It gives very in-depth data on flight parameters nor available through the skypixel logs you upload when you contact support.
For those of you wanting to replace your shell the one thing this video doesn’t show is how to remove the gps antenna. It is the easiest part of the disassembly. That’s shielding isn’t putty, it’s an adhesive copper shielding tape. It pulls off very easily and isn’t very fragile stuff. Underneath are 4 screws and it’s off. The tape is sticky enough to reuse on your new shell. This whole process takes a couple of minutes. I hope this helps.
By far the most helpful video I have seen. THANK YOU!
Thank you I wondered what the inside looked like but just got it and didn't want to damage anything .
Have a very happy new year. CHEERS
Brilliant, I understood every word. Not too deep for me to grasp but important stuff when considering buying one of these as I like to mend my own things. Thanks very much.
SD Card is a black box, can also do a boot flash. Like most drone flight controllers, the onboard SD Card stores flight logs. Idea being originally if you had a crash because something burned out it would store data like "communication error ESC 3" but it can also store input / telemetry data. The part that scares people is the fact it also has your data on it because a lot of DJI drones require you to activate it.
thanks fro the efforts, more details about how IMU sensor in the center of the board has been isolated from the vibration noise would be appreciated.
after watching this video, i think you can upgrade the radio module antena( 5.8ghz) and the wifi antenas too to upgrade the range, with that mode and DBS or ARGtek mod in the RC controller you can get 5km with the standard!
Yes I agree Kriss987, 5 km out of a Phantom 3 Standard is impossible, oh btw watch this th-cam.com/video/8yqsre9Q5Q8/w-d-xo.htmland also this th-cam.com/video/DSvHsgV5XGs/w-d-xo.htmlHumble pie will be served after coffee, just before the cheese platter :o)
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the ESC board (I think you called it PCB) The SD card on the bottom is an 8gb memory card. You were correct when you said you may not be able to read it. Last year when I replaced my board I wanted to see what was on the card. My computer could read the card but I could not see a file on it. Interesting stuff.
I took mine out and read it on the PC; it's the detailed flight logs stored on the drone. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
Where did you purchase your Replacement ESC Board from?
I have an old P3 Standard that I would like to repair... Thank you in advanced :)
Good video, I have to replace my shell and now don't feel so bad about opening it up.
Hello, I really enjoyed the video and your explanation!
I wanted to ask please do you know what the white stuff that holds the compass (2:16) is? And what is the white substance/glue that holds the wires of the motors (5:50)? Thanks in advance
Great video. Well done.
that was so precise and accurate. Very articulate and you went over all the major stuff and answered so many questions without boring me you were totally understandable. Bravo I think you missed your calling. but I broke my black and grey and tenant and it crashed and repaired the gimbal myself. The connectors are too small to make. So I need you to take it one step further and continue that video. LOL PS is that what I should be doing question mark replacing the whole antenna with a coax ipx cable at the end?
Thank you for the great video.
It was really helpful.
I do have a question: There is some cracking under the motor arm. There is cracking is in between the four T8's.
Is the cracking going to be catastrophic?
Hi, i also had a crash and pulled the grey wire out of the connector on the gimbal. Have the new 2.4g wifi antenna arriving tomorrow and trying to work out how to install. From watching this video is seems like i am going to have to do a full teardown even removing the board in order to access the area that it lives in... do you know any other easier ways to be able to get in there and access it.
Another question - the black wire is still connected and i was ablet o fly the drone with just it and not the grey one. Does this just mean that my range will be limited so in a pinch i can keep flying it as it is but should replace the grey one?
thanks
And don't you think the sd card underneath is for storing compass and imu data? I would imagine it would be because it probably needs to store the data from all the calibrations.
good detail. Thank you. can we replace the mortor easily ? one of mine doesn't seem to work.
The motors are the easy things everything else is hard' cheers
Subscribed & a nice Video. I have a Phantom 3 SE that flys for a minute and falls to the ground after all 4 motors stops suddenly itself. Camera was damaged a while ago so i removed it and the gimble is still connected to the drone properly secured and wired. Is there a fix for this or is this a common problem or is it because the the camera is detached. Any help from anyone would be great.
Very Detailed, Thankyou. I'm a noob so hopefully this isn't a Duh... Question. Are the motors meant to sit slightly askew in there cradles. I recently bought some Prop protectors and in putting the motors back into the Drone, I noticed they dont sit perfectly up & Down. Once back together the cheap knockoff Prop Guides hit the props... stupid to buy knockoffs I know. Anyway Is this designed so or did I screw up the re-installation?
Yes, the motors are tilted to reduce propwash against the body. It's normal.
Hi, thanks for your video!
I need a bit of your help. My phantom got crashed and since that I lose connection very common. What cable do you think I have to check if it got out or damaged of the main board??
Thanks! and good videos!
RadRider33, how hard is it to take the battery carriage out as well? I need to replace the gray ribbon cable that goes to the camera. Is it possible to do that with out removing the board and battery carriage?
Thanks.
Help can connect to my controller after a crash. Was wondering if the broken fumble has something to do with that or if it's something g in the drone
Otra cosa del botoncito, lleva la placa una marca blanca para indicar que hay que colocarlo ¿cómo? tengo que cambiar uno y veo que tienen polaridad, por debajo llevan dos marcas redondas en un lado que en el otro no lo llevan, y alorificio central que hay también en ambos lados menores del rectángulo, que se ven también por debajo son diferentes uno claro y otro más oscuro, aquí tengo 50 piezas que adquirí a 2 euros; estaba pensando que el lado de los dos circulos es el que va a la parte de la marca redonda que hay en la placa ¿sabes su polaridad exacta? GRACIAS
I have a small button that fell out.. any idea where/what it is?
Great Job ! Thanks.
From your position you move the metel piecet to the right.
I recently crashed my drone, damaged one of my wings and a sensor in that wing, is that repairable?? Thanks
I want to see what's on that mini SD card
+Jack Sohachevsky right? according to phantompilots forum it's got the flight logs on it. There wouldn't have been much on mine since it hadn't been flown :p
a blackbox pretty much :) records flight data
I took mine out and read it on the PC; it's the detailed flight logs stored on the drone. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
You do not need to remove the landing gear legs to split the case.
Good video & teardown. I think the term you're looking for is "plastic stand-off" instead of 'tower'....
Is it possible that the antenna connectors come loose?
I'm asking because I have been getting random drops in 5.8 GHz connectivity. Now, they did start when I installed my ARGtek kit, but I redid the connection on that one 3 times now, always putting on hot glue to keep the plug in place.
The question is: Could it be that a connecter inside the drone came a bit loose and has an unsecure connection, or did I get a bad antenna kit?
Yes, high dielectric rubber cement should be applied to prevent vibrations and minor knocks from shaking them loose. Also the cables that run to the board should be glued to protect the connectors. Visually inspect the row of solder joints running on both sides of the IMU assembly where it meets the main board. Look for a line in the solder joint it may apear darker in color than the rest of the solder. If you find any this should be remade using a high quality flux and lead free solder following ESD protection when in contact with the board. If your having issues check and bond the IMU FFC cable (amber in color, but sometimes black or blue) and comes from the IMU down to the sub-assembly
Thanks for the advice, although I actually fixed my issue. It appears that one of the antenna connectors (luckily just that, not a sotered connection) was loose. I put it on properly with a little pressure and applied hot glue that should help keep it in position (in addition to the glue that was on the cable).
The problem hasn't appeared again since then.
It probably originated when I dropped my drone one time (I'm gonna be the next Linus soon...).
Very good, yes all of the connectors on the DJI P3, P4 Mavic and Spark and aggra (only ones I have been inside) are complete rubbish and should be checked, bonded and taped with a vue to minimizing vibration. I appreciate you dropped it, however with moderate bangs these very important connectors should not come loose in the first place. I am glad you got her sorted.
I recently crashed my P3S, I bought the shell and a few other parts but could find a good guide.
You, sir, are a hero.
This video was linked in my college course lol just thought you should know that
can you disable the power on chime?
would the black and grey wifi wires if not hookup cleanly not give you telemetry on the App
Those are the video downlink if you hook it,up wrong you will likely not get a signal at all
+Grey John you are correct sir
The SD card probably has the Linux filesystem in it. It doesn't make sense to have anything secret or obscure in it, specially when they are saving money with screws.
They might ALSO be tryin' to SAVE WEIGHT by being stingy with screws . . . every little bit adds up.
It could also have configuration files inside, like IMU and gimbal calibration data, max height and stuff.
nice! I want to see the battery chamber :)
very interesting video
i think the micro sd contains the camera footage captured by the drone
It does not. Thats what the micro sd slot in the camera is for.
i disagree about the solder. Considering sending drones into DJI is so time consuming and there are very few reliable repair centers you can actual go to I would highly prefer some connectors that have some secondary bracket that prevents them from disconnecting in flight. Even if you do know how to solder well the white glue is very hard to come by if you can even get it and it is very difficult to create that perfect spherical solder connection. I like to repair my drones if necessary and I do but it would be so much easier if it was just a simple plug and play with no risk of damage.
so with that usb port on the phantom...what can you do with the drone when its connected to your computer?
Firmware Update
it's how you access the detailed flight logs stored on the drone SD card, which he shows on the bottom of the main board in the video. You can also get to these files by just putting your P3S into Flight Data Mode using the app and then plugging micro USB cable from drone to PC to access the card externally.
"shielding sticky putty stuff" ,, got it
hi, i took a part my phantom 3 but when re connected it gave beebing sound and yellow lights! could you help me with this? thanks
Saed Al Bimani check your gps connection, phantom 3 flashes yellow if there's a gps or compass error. The app will tell you what's wrong
RadRider33 Thanks. the app foes not tell anything. i made sure to re position the gps connection i side the drone. it gives interrupted beeb sound with yellow and red lights
RadRider33 when you connect youre cumputer to the micro usb plug on the front of the drone (not the camera plug) then you can read the sd card but not the data but i think its like a black box that keeps all youre flight information, so that when u crash dji can find out what wen wrong
A common mistake when working on these is damage to SFC mount components or track damage caused by the tooling required to open the shell. That would be the first place I would look.
By the way, did you put it together and flown it?
memory card may be the black box to the craft.
If you wanted to save the "beautiful stickers" just use a razor blade and cut down the seam where the two plastic pieces come together
I think the sd card is glued to the board btw
FYI, it's a T-8 torx, not a T-7. Don't use a T-7 as you'll strip the screw heads.
Correct. And use only quality torx screw drivers that have hardened tips because the four T-8 screws that are closest to the landing gear are a real bear to loosen. Everyday 1/4 inch drive torx bits will not even fit in the screw recesses.
Hey, would you mind if I could e-mail you about your current experience at university/college in electrical engineering? I don't have any knowledge or practical experience concerning electronics and I would love to get more involved because I also want to study electrical engineering too! :)
all he wants is your bank details first
thanks;;;;
Fact is that the Phantom 3 Standard has the longest flight-time ; p
+hobby Interesting...I suppose that makes sense, since all the P3's use the same battery, and the Standard has less electronics (specifically the lack of the high-power LightBridge) and less weight (no ultrasound module). Whoop!
+RadRider33 check my channel if you like,I fly a yuneec q500
you said co ax cables are they fiber optic
no, they are coax cables
¿por que no describes la piececita botón de reinicio o de hacer contacto con la emisora? el botoncito que hay debajo de la placa y se acciona por el orificio lateral del fantón, es muy importante, sale en las imágenes en 9,54 segundos, abajo junto a un lez que se ilumina al conectarlo y se ve verde o rojo o parpadea? según modelos supongo, no se si además ese botoncito reinicia a valores de fábrica el chisme digo dron,??
Sé que sirve para, caso de desconexión, se que si se desconecta de la emisora, le busca la frecuencia pulsando 2 segundos dicho botocito, al tiempo que se accitivan dos mandos a la vez en el receptor, proceso que se puede hacer con la tablet, desde el programa en restablecer emisora, en su control.
Ese botób, ojo es muy delicado, si se rompe no funciona el chisme pierde la señal, solo se encienden las luces verde traseras, etc y pone que se pulsa desde abajo con un palito, ojo que te lo cargas que no resiste mas presión que un pulso pequeño,, alguno le aprieta fuerte y le deja averiado y da problemas, si se rompe no funcionan más que las luces de adelante y poco más, así que no se puede conectar no recibe señal y no van los mandos
Ese botón es el restablecimiento de fábrica: le permite conectar el dron a un nuevo control remoto o si ha olvidado la contraseña wifi.
gracias, bueno es saberlo, en un tutorial pone que sirve para conectar la emisora en caso de perdida de la señal, así que igual la función es diferente, si es un 3 4k un 3, estandar, el 3 profesional o algún otro fanton 3, algunas carcasas no tienen ese orificio, así que lo mismo no lo tienen todos??
Poor soldering at points of failure leading to fly away are the IMU sub assembly mount points to main board, the ffc connector from IMU is the wrong type for this application. Connector ports are soldered and no vibration dampening adhesive is used. Differences in frequencies of oscillation between the main board and the cables leads to the failure of the solder joint at the connector as nothing protects these joints.
Telemetry, video or control drop's are the most common symptoms, nav issues and the drone getting its own mind are others. When your SUA vanishes due to one of these failures I am sorry to say DJI will not care about your problems.
**edit**
The SD card is the deep data flight recorder for your aircraft, clearly DJI where anticipating problems as this is a removable media . It gives very in-depth data on flight parameters nor available through the skypixel logs you upload when you contact support.
read the micro sd card please
Dude, come on, not only is it completely unnecessary to remove the landing gear to remove the top, you simply cut each side of the red sticker. WTH
I get 30 minutes on my Autel Xstar Premium
Sorry brother but those are pure shit, I had 2..
why would anyone want to do this??
Man that is one terrible machine. If there is one thing loathe it's an all-one board. Thanks.