Nice work Hunter, Glad to see that the work you are putting in is making progress told your overall goals for the car. Even more glad to see you also run DWS06 tires too! Love'em!
In Germany we use Brembo Z18 with Z17 pads and 334mm R32 discs + steelflex brake lines. Epytec provides the adapter. RA we often use 310mm discs with R32 calipers + steelfelx. Epytec adapter will make it fit
Websites really get you sometimes. I ordered some rear shocks recently for my 180 and the website said they would fit. Come to find out when they arrived that the ones i had ordered for the 180 are not for the 180 but for the 225. The website didn't make it clear that they have different rear mounting configurations for the rear shocks. :/ hope i can get a return
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has had trouble on some websites with getting parts that fit. Ill be sure to look I to that when I do suspension work:) Thank you for the support!
I've been looking into using some 4 pot Porsche calipers actually. Hard to find nice second hand ones near me sadly. Thank you for the support! Glad you liked the video!
@@HunterDirection Yea, I was lucky, got a set from someone for £250. He was breaking his TT. Managed to get quite a bit of stuff. He was kind enough to let me have everything at a good price.
Tuareg brakes are a pretty popular upgrade on Volkswagen/Audi vehicles. They're usually pretty affordable if you get a set used on eBay or such. Around $300 2 front Calipers. They're 6 piston Brembos. Some VAG cars they simply bolt on. Others you just need adapters for. I believe there are Mercedes brake rotors that pair up with them in the same bolt pattern. There's whole guides online for it. One of the best bang for buck brake kits you can get.
This is perfect! I absolutely love that idea. I will start looking for some of these secondhand and see what I can find. Thank you a ton for the advice and the support!:)
That's a good point I forgot to mention:) My car actually didn't have any in the old rotors when I took them off. I think whoever owned the car before me snapped them all off unfortunately. (Looked to be remnants of the old ones sheared off in the holes) Thankfully that only makes it difficult to line up the lugs and isn't a showstopper to driving the car. Thanks for the support!
drilled rotors are nearly purely aesthetic, slotted are great to prevent glassing pads and to allow off gassing when the pads start having problems with the heat. Drilled CAN offer "better" rotor ventilation, but that's anecdotal, so can more/better fins inside the rotor without removing surface friction. Drilled rotors came from hot rodding in the 50's as an effort to reduce rolling mass in the drivetrain and get better 1/4 mile times avoid drilled when you can, it cuts the life of the rotor and pads for almost no reason. I've seen a lot of them crack apart, even oem Flat rotors and quality pads for the specific job (heat rating) FTW Last; it's not "braking" in brakes, it's bedding in brakes. You're literally transferring pad material (bedding) onto the rotor making effectively pad on pad friction, being much better than pad on metal friction. Funny enough, metal on metal is also an extremally good brake but requires the "pad" and rotor to be extremely hot to work and that was the main way NASCAR implemented brakes for decades lol non the less, awesome job. keep it up
I was quoted €2.4k for an front brake upgrade to Leon Cupra R calipers/disks and all the required hardware. I said wth guys I can probably go with 6pot AP racing for that kinda money. It went to the far back of the list after a big turbo ugrade
Yeah haha. Once you get into truly going big brake it gets extremely expensive from what I've found as well. Thank you for the advice! It's something I will so someday but it will depend on how well sorted the rest of the car is haha! Thanks for the support!
Hmm that sounds like an interesting problem. Could you elaborate a bit? Does the engine knock when you're in gear? Or is it just your idle vacuum pressure that changes when you have the clutch out. I can try and think of what may be the issue and see what I come up with.
@@moncier77 that's a smart idea! I've got a whole set of silicone hoses I've been putting on as needed. I'll likely do the same thing and throw the rest on when I get to the fmic stage as well
Seeing this car come together so well is so inspiring. Thank you.
I am glad to hear you like the progress! Thank you so much!
I just got an Audi TT a week ago doing timing belt and the r8 coil pack your vid on that was rlly helpful!!
Im glad to hear you found the video helpful! It's a fantastic car, and I hope you enjoy it! Thanks for the support!
Nice work Hunter, Glad to see that the work you are putting in is making progress told your overall goals for the car. Even more glad to see you also run DWS06 tires too! Love'em!
They are fantastic tires! I'm glad you are enjoying the videos! Its really nice to see progress on the car! Thanks for the support:)
In Germany we use Brembo Z18 with Z17 pads and 334mm R32 discs + steelflex brake lines. Epytec provides the adapter. RA we often use 310mm discs with R32 calipers + steelfelx. Epytec adapter will make it fit
This is perfect! I will start looking into this kinda setup and seeing what I can find:) thanks for the support and the awesome information!
Good choice for brakes I put the same set in my TT two years ago and no problems.
That's great to hear! I really like them so far. Thank you for the support!
Great video!
Thank you!:)
Websites really get you sometimes. I ordered some rear shocks recently for my 180 and the website said they would fit. Come to find out when they arrived that the ones i had ordered for the 180 are not for the 180 but for the 225. The website didn't make it clear that they have different rear mounting configurations for the rear shocks. :/ hope i can get a return
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who has had trouble on some websites with getting parts that fit. Ill be sure to look I to that when I do suspension work:) Thank you for the support!
I had to rebuild my hole coil hardness last year due to about 1000 spilts from oils that broke that wiring casing down.
Good video and some good points. I have fitted Porsche 4 pot brakes running standard rotors so far. Keep up the good work.
I've been looking into using some 4 pot Porsche calipers actually. Hard to find nice second hand ones near me sadly. Thank you for the support! Glad you liked the video!
@@HunterDirection Yea, I was lucky, got a set from someone for £250. He was breaking his TT. Managed to get quite a bit of stuff. He was kind enough to let me have everything at a good price.
Tuareg brakes are a pretty popular upgrade on Volkswagen/Audi vehicles.
They're usually pretty affordable if you get a set used on eBay or such. Around $300 2 front Calipers.
They're 6 piston Brembos. Some VAG cars they simply bolt on. Others you just need adapters for.
I believe there are Mercedes brake rotors that pair up with them in the same bolt pattern.
There's whole guides online for it. One of the best bang for buck brake kits you can get.
This is perfect! I absolutely love that idea. I will start looking for some of these secondhand and see what I can find. Thank you a ton for the advice and the support!:)
I think you forgot to put in the rotor screw which holds the disc at 10:58?
That's a good point I forgot to mention:) My car actually didn't have any in the old rotors when I took them off. I think whoever owned the car before me snapped them all off unfortunately. (Looked to be remnants of the old ones sheared off in the holes) Thankfully that only makes it difficult to line up the lugs and isn't a showstopper to driving the car. Thanks for the support!
drilled rotors are nearly purely aesthetic, slotted are great to prevent glassing pads and to allow off gassing when the pads start having problems with the heat. Drilled CAN offer "better" rotor ventilation, but that's anecdotal, so can more/better fins inside the rotor without removing surface friction. Drilled rotors came from hot rodding in the 50's as an effort to reduce rolling mass in the drivetrain and get better 1/4 mile times
avoid drilled when you can, it cuts the life of the rotor and pads for almost no reason. I've seen a lot of them crack apart, even oem
Flat rotors and quality pads for the specific job (heat rating) FTW
Last; it's not "braking" in brakes, it's bedding in brakes. You're literally transferring pad material (bedding) onto the rotor making effectively pad on pad friction, being much better than pad on metal friction. Funny enough, metal on metal is also an extremally good brake but requires the "pad" and rotor to be extremely hot to work and that was the main way NASCAR implemented brakes for decades lol
non the less, awesome job. keep it up
Hey mate. Where did u get the silicone pipe from?
I’d double check you put those rotors on the correct side, they are directional.
Great point! They were each labeled so I made sure to triple check as I put them On one at a time! Thanks for the support!
No problem, I’m currently working on a Santorin Blue B5 S4. I’m doing full brake replacement tomorrow(rotors, pads, calipers and lines). 🤞
@@danny3487 Thats awesome! I love my B5S4. Same color too! Santorin blue is so underrated in my opinion. It's wild how different it is than the TT.
What year is your tt
Sorry If this was ask before, but do you have AMU or BEA engine code? Oh those rotors are nice, I have the Zimmerman Vented & Cross-Drilled.
I have an AMU engine:) and those sound like great rotors!
@@HunterDirection awesome! we have the same code.
I was quoted €2.4k for an front brake upgrade to Leon Cupra R calipers/disks and all the required hardware. I said wth guys I can probably go with 6pot AP racing for that kinda money. It went to the far back of the list after a big turbo ugrade
Yeah haha. Once you get into truly going big brake it gets extremely expensive from what I've found as well. Thank you for the advice! It's something I will so someday but it will depend on how well sorted the rest of the car is haha! Thanks for the support!
Okay so when my clutch is pushed in my car ideal fine but when it’s not it knocks?
Any help is appreciated
Hmm that sounds like an interesting problem. Could you elaborate a bit? Does the engine knock when you're in gear? Or is it just your idle vacuum pressure that changes when you have the clutch out. I can try and think of what may be the issue and see what I come up with.
Good video but please fix your audio popping.
So my bad, that was my computer with all the pops. :(
@@mrmotorsports3576 oh dang sorry to hear about your computer popping:/ glad the upload audio is all good though. Thanks for the support!
@@HunterDirection Me too! It was a good video! So it ended up being because of a bug in Halo Infinite. weird
I have to tear into my TT and find my boost leaks
It's been a continuous battle on my car since I bought it haha. I seem to keep finding them where I least expect them. Thanks for the support!
@@HunterDirection no doubt! I ordered forge turbo inlet and outlet. Work my way through the whole system with new parts. Into the Wagner intercooler
@@moncier77 that's a smart idea! I've got a whole set of silicone hoses I've been putting on as needed. I'll likely do the same thing and throw the rest on when I get to the fmic stage as well