Oil = ( C x H x 0.44 ) cc C = circumference measured at the narrowest waste of the black bulb (cm) H = height of bulb (cm) 0.44 is constant I hope no more uncertainty about the amount of oil for your fridge motors :) I know you don't have to open to add oil but not sure how you add otherwise !
All you need to do is drill a small hole turn the device upside down to let the oil drain out or drill a small hole in the bottom and and fill back in with a small screw and gasket , Then to get the oil in just turn on the pump and connect a hose to the intake and it will suck the oil into the device , very quickly i might ad .
There are specific oils for rotating compressors, they are usually meant to don't mix with refrigerating gases, there are also oils specific for vacuum pumps and for food uses. If you are going to convert the compressor in a vacuum pump maybe it could be useful to change the oil type but you must catch the right viscosity, which I think it's related to the rotation speed
I've used mineral oil for 5 years of harvesting these pumps for compressors or vaccine systems and never had a pump fail so long as I change the oil at least once a year or so.
Thanks my compressor star heating i never change the oil, and I think there’s no oil anymore, I will try and ad motor oil to see if that fixes the overheating, thanks for the video now I know how much to add, plus the type of oil 👍🏻 I will let you know if it works
you can suck it into the compressor from the intank wiht no problems , it starts to spit when you added to much , just let it spit a bit then let it run for 2 hours to spray put the excess
They'll get a little hot either way, but the problem is that the oil in the compressor will absorb humidity from the air and start to corrode the internals of the pump. This is why you need to change the oil. You can run for months as an air compressor pump without losing significant enough oil, it's the moisture that the poe oil in the pump soaks up causing rust that's the problem.
I’m sure someone has mentioned this but, it doesn’t matter how much oil you keep pouring in it … Because it’s just gonna pump it out the discharge tube ( the high side discharge ) every time you turn it on.. So, you will need a loop system to reintroduce the oil back into the motor cavity… And if it were my project, I’d braze a 1/4” copper line to the discharge and loop it back into the compressor via a hole I drilled in the casing… Then I’d use 45% silver solder to seal the copper tube to the steel housing! After that, I’d braze a 1/4” flare service port to a check valve mounted To the low side ( suction side ) port using a copper reducer to span the gap… and finally, add a bung w/ matching plug ~ some where close to the bottom of the compressor For use as a drain. That way you can keep the oil clean.. If these modifications are made to a compressor that has not been cut open… I would advise adding a breather valve to the very top of the compressor to relieve the internal pressure. Or someone could get slick and add an automatic pressure relief valve too or instead there of! Just my two cents… Thanks for posting the video, i thought it was cool!!
Thanks man! iv'e ordered one of these to use as a vacuum pump, did you have to cut it open to get the old stuff out or will i run out if you turn it upside down?
yes . the intake port is directly connected to the tanks , then to refill the device it will suck the oil back into the unit just by connecting a hose . I recommend a vacuum pump oil as regular oils take for ever to degas but they will work . Sucking oil into the machine will not hurt it , it just goes directly to the tanks .
@@NOBOX7 sucking too much oil can cause some damage as the reed valves aren't designed for large (cylinder sized) volumes of incompressible high viscosity fluid. This is why, when you get a new refrigerant system (ac, fridge, freezer, etc.) That has been tipped on it's side you need to wait an hour or two before starting it to make sure no oil filled the cylinder or the intake pipe that could damage the compressor valve or load the connecting rod too much (the con rods are just spot welded and not very strong, but don't normally brake unless loading with a cylinder of oil.
You generally know when you have added too much oil when it starts spraying out of the pressure line. Question is how to get the old oil out without cutting it open?
The Lightning Stalker, I know as a mechanic that oil in you car's A/C system gets pulled through the system by the refrigerant, but in a car there is only a few ounces in the system, not much at all considering, He is using much more oil than any automotive system drags around.
@@stclairstclair idk why they use so much oil in these but it might have something to do with cooling. One time I tried pumping some LP gas with a freshly cut open fridge pump and the gas dissolved in the oil and blew like a half liter of oil out when it was depressurized so for some reason they are meant to be filled with quite a bit.
the oil can be sucked into the device using the intake line , it will not damage the unit , it flows directly into the tank , very quickly i might add . the tank is actually the vacuum side and it is not connected to the compressor so it will not damage the compressor by filling the cylinder causing" water hammer" damage
NOBOX7 , I hope you reply to this, Ive been a mechanic for 30 years and doing A/C, Ive never thought about using a non hydroscopic replacement oil, i came here, I'm so glad you told me about the fact that the compressor doesn't suck the oil "directly" I assumed it was like a car, Hydrostaticly locking the pump, also I drained my oil with the intention of replacing it with compressor oil until I couldn't find it and did not want to experiment on my own, thanks much!!!!!!
@@stclairstclair mineral oil works well enough if you don't want an engine oil smell when running it. Not as good as engine oil but since I get my compressors for free from the scrap I use mineral oil. 4 years since I started collecting these compressors I haven't had a single one fail, though I try to change the oil at least once every six months
@@lazyh-online4839 I used thin mobile one synthetic oil and have not had a single problem, I dont use this often and I have sweat soldered R12 fittings on the compressor so its sealed when not in use, I needed it for degassing polymer resins and oil changes on the mower.
Interesting , thanks for sharing. I may have an oil leak but I’m reading having the compressor repaired costs 2/3rd’s a new fridge ? If that’s true that sucks. I’ll attempt to stop the leak by sealing the entire seam with jb or something silly and see if it works. Shade tree appliance repairs can be hell a stack dryer once taught me.
Jb could work if you prep the surface correctly and do not run the compressor while it’s curing… It’s true though, compressor swaps on residential refrigeration isn’t worth it , unless you have something antique… but all the new ones, unless you can perform the job safely yourself, they’re trash if the compressor takes A shit! The job for a residential compressor swap is more involved than that of the same job in a commercial refrigerator so, in the scheme of things, it’s very expensive… it’s august 15th, 2023 and my company charges $1650.00 for most all reach in cooler types.. uprights, work tops, prep stations etc… single door and on up to three door models! So your residential fridge is higher than that! Give or take a few bucks based the labor time…
Ok thanks I tried it and it works..thing is thought this is a 12 inch lay down compressor it gets real hot ..shiuld it? And also you ha a kick start wire on this..hot..griund and kickstart and of course the lightning ground..im trying to figure out hot to wire it into my control box/regulator switch on my tank got any idea?? Thanks bob
There's common, start, and run, common goes to neutral, run goes to live, and start goes to your capacitor. There's no kickstart, ground, or lightning terminals on these.
If i was you i would only add 8 oz , in this video we can see that 5 oz allows the sump to spray oil and 8 is plenty extra .. as i said in the video do not use Estor oil or the oil that these units use when they are pumping refrigerant gases. Estor oil absorbs water and moisture . air compressor oil would probably be the best . on mine i used a self tapping screw that has a rubber washer on it , the kind used for screwing corrugated sheet metal to roofs or barns to put a drain hole in the unit . then i simply place a hose on the intake line and sucked the oil into the unit . the tank is the vacuum side of the device , it does not fill with pressure so you can just let the unit vacuum 8 oz of oil in seconds ....
Engine oil isn't designed to corrode stuff, imagine if that happened inside your engine, that would suck. You can use other oils to if you'd rather, mineral oil is similar in formulation to transformer oil, and often used as a substitute diy transformer oil, so there shouldn't be any damage there. That being said many people do this with engine oil and I've never heard of anyone having issues with insulation degradation from engine oil.
Hey bro I got a lay down style freezer compressor ..cant take the top off it so where do I put in my oil ? Can I let the vaccine suck the oil into the unit?
SUNIL DHIMAN These compressors cannot be rebuilt unfortunately. It would be a waste of time because you can just buy a new one. It would be cool if you didn’t have to cut them open because it would make servicing and scrapping them easier.
@@MonsterLegoTruck you can service them so long as you find the parts. The cylinder can be unbolted from the motor frame and the piston/conrod pair will slide off the crankshaft along with the cylinder, pull the old one out, put the new one is, and boom, you're done. It's finding the parts that's the hard part. I never buy them because they're so expensive but I had one that had burnt windings from a bad capacitor and one with a broken conrod, both same brand but different models. I put the conrod from the burnt out unit into the cylinder of the broken unit because they were the same size.
@@MonsterLegoTruck I actually welded a replaceable lid on mine, thought it'd be easier to weld the hinge and seal onto it and clean out any welding slag rather than risk the welding slag getting into the compressor without knowing until it locked up. I know, I probably just overcomplicated the whole thing but I was younger then. I tried using weather stripping for a while as a seal but then I heard of supergluing nitrile o-rings and made a more durable one from a bucket lid seal.
@@MonsterLegoTruck I will say, I got VERY lucky finding two compressors with matching piston sizes, took them apart on a whim to see if fitting them was even possible. Most that I've hacked apart are all slightly different and don't match up. Even if the bearing and cylinder are the same diameter, you need to make sure the length is the same or you either have dead space or your piston will crash into the cylinder.
THANKS ,, it took alot of research to figure put the oil type details , every body claims it must have the original oil turned out that was so wrong , so be careful what you take in
As long as the compressor takes ester oil and the system has been exposed to the ambient air for over 15 minutes, you have to replace the compressor. aEven if the compressor is running and test good. The problem is ester oil is hydro miscopic and you can't remove the moisture from the oil.
your confusing me, this video is not about repairing a pump its about repurposing the pump as a vacuum pump or compressor replacing with oil that can be used in air applications , obviously you didnt watch the video but thanks for the info any way
Changing the oil removes the moisture. I had one running with the poe oil for a year before I changed it out with mineral oil, the old oil looked like frothy snot when I poured it out but the compressor has still been running for another two years since then as a silent air compressor for my mini desk shop.
Hi do you think that is is viable to add this oil into the coolant system if a car to then make it become a condensing unit type of air con unit in youtuber brey213. Suzuki joe booker shows a green fluid in the radiator and he talks of methanol and alcohol so may these to intereact causing the engine to freeze as. Joe states in joe cell horses mouth. Any replies appreciated
None of those concepts relate to each other, the green liquid is coolant for the engine, ac is not in the engine it's part of the refrigerant system, neither relates to engines locking up, and none of the above relates to the NON-automotive ac pump in the video.
+Wood Wright actually i posted this video after i found myself confronted with the problem of what kind of oil to put in this thing after i did some work to it , then i wondered well how much does it need? so i made this video to help others but people like you definitely make it hard to want to share information
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Oil = ( C x H x 0.44 ) cc
C = circumference measured at the narrowest waste of the black bulb (cm)
H = height of bulb (cm)
0.44 is constant
I hope no more uncertainty about the amount of oil for your fridge motors :)
I know you don't have to open to add oil but not sure how you add otherwise !
All you need to do is drill a small hole turn the device upside down to let the oil drain out or drill a small hole in the bottom and and fill back in with a small screw and gasket , Then to get the oil in just turn on the pump and connect a hose to the intake and it will suck the oil into the device , very quickly i might ad .
There are specific oils for rotating compressors, they are usually meant to don't mix with refrigerating gases, there are also oils specific for vacuum pumps and for food uses. If you are going to convert the compressor in a vacuum pump maybe it could be useful to change the oil type but you must catch the right viscosity, which I think it's related to the rotation speed
never had any problems
Maybe with those low power units it's not critical which type of oil you use, your experience is very useful
I've used mineral oil for 5 years of harvesting these pumps for compressors or vaccine systems and never had a pump fail so long as I change the oil at least once a year or so.
Thanks my compressor star heating i never change the oil, and I think there’s no oil anymore, I will try and ad motor oil to see if that fixes the overheating, thanks for the video now I know how much to add, plus the type of oil 👍🏻 I will let you know if it works
you can suck it into the compressor from the intank wiht no problems , it starts to spit when you added to much , just let it spit a bit then let it run for 2 hours to spray put the excess
They'll get a little hot either way, but the problem is that the oil in the compressor will absorb humidity from the air and start to corrode the internals of the pump. This is why you need to change the oil. You can run for months as an air compressor pump without losing significant enough oil, it's the moisture that the poe oil in the pump soaks up causing rust that's the problem.
I’m sure someone has mentioned this but, it doesn’t matter how much oil you keep pouring in it …
Because it’s just gonna pump it out the discharge tube ( the high side discharge ) every time you turn it on..
So, you will need a loop system to reintroduce the oil back into the motor cavity…
And if it were my project, I’d braze a 1/4” copper line to the discharge and loop it back into the compressor via a hole I drilled in the casing…
Then I’d use 45% silver solder to seal the copper tube to the steel housing!
After that, I’d braze a 1/4” flare service port to a check valve mounted To the low side ( suction side ) port using a copper reducer to span the gap… and finally, add a bung w/ matching plug ~ some where close to the bottom of the compressor For use as a drain. That way you can keep the oil clean..
If these modifications are made to a compressor that has not been cut open… I would advise adding a breather valve to the very top of the compressor to relieve the internal pressure.
Or someone could get slick and add an automatic pressure relief valve too or instead there of!
Just my two cents…
Thanks for posting the video, i thought it was cool!!
Thanks man! iv'e ordered one of these to use as a vacuum pump, did you have to cut it open to get the old stuff out or will i run out if you turn it upside down?
yes . the intake port is directly connected to the tanks , then to refill the device it will suck the oil back into the unit just by connecting a hose . I recommend a vacuum pump oil as regular oils take for ever to degas but they will work . Sucking oil into the machine will not hurt it , it just goes directly to the tanks .
@@NOBOX7 Cheers! got the compressor took your advice and it seems okay.
@@NOBOX7 sucking too much oil can cause some damage as the reed valves aren't designed for large (cylinder sized) volumes of incompressible high viscosity fluid. This is why, when you get a new refrigerant system (ac, fridge, freezer, etc.) That has been tipped on it's side you need to wait an hour or two before starting it to make sure no oil filled the cylinder or the intake pipe that could damage the compressor valve or load the connecting rod too much (the con rods are just spot welded and not very strong, but don't normally brake unless loading with a cylinder of oil.
You generally know when you have added too much oil when it starts spraying out of the pressure line. Question is how to get the old oil out without cutting it open?
The Lightning Stalker, I know as a mechanic that oil in you car's A/C system gets pulled through the system by the refrigerant, but in a car there is only a few ounces in the system, not much at all considering, He is using much more oil than any automotive system drags around.
@@stclairstclair idk why they use so much oil in these but it might have something to do with cooling. One time I tried pumping some LP gas with a freshly cut open fridge pump and the gas dissolved in the oil and blew like a half liter of oil out when it was depressurized so for some reason they are meant to be filled with quite a bit.
Turn it on its side
@@stclairstclair considering this has nothing to do with automotive ac pumps I'm not sure why you're bringing them up.
@@lazyh-online4839 Oh hell I thought you were attacking me, lol, sorry!
So if I did not cut the top of the compressor open how will I add the compressor oil
the oil can be sucked into the device using the intake line , it will not damage the unit , it flows directly into the tank , very quickly i might add . the tank is actually the vacuum side and it is not connected to the compressor so it will not damage the compressor by filling the cylinder causing" water hammer" damage
NOBOX7 , I hope you reply to this, Ive been a mechanic for 30 years and doing A/C, Ive never thought about using a non hydroscopic replacement oil, i came here, I'm so glad you told me about the fact that the compressor doesn't suck the oil "directly" I assumed it was like a car, Hydrostaticly locking the pump, also I drained my oil with the intention of replacing it with compressor oil until I couldn't find it and did not want to experiment on my own, thanks much!!!!!!
@@stclairstclair mineral oil works well enough if you don't want an engine oil smell when running it. Not as good as engine oil but since I get my compressors for free from the scrap I use mineral oil. 4 years since I started collecting these compressors I haven't had a single one fail, though I try to change the oil at least once every six months
@@lazyh-online4839 I used thin mobile one synthetic oil and have not had a single problem, I dont use this often and I have sweat soldered R12 fittings on the compressor so its sealed when not in use, I needed it for degassing polymer resins and oil changes on the mower.
Interesting , thanks for sharing. I may have an oil leak but I’m reading having the compressor repaired costs 2/3rd’s a new fridge ? If that’s true that sucks. I’ll attempt to stop the leak by sealing the entire seam with jb or something silly and see if it works. Shade tree appliance repairs can be hell a stack dryer once taught me.
Jb could work if you prep the surface correctly and do not run the compressor while it’s curing…
It’s true though, compressor swaps on residential refrigeration isn’t worth it , unless you have something antique… but all the new ones, unless you can perform the job safely yourself, they’re trash if the compressor takes A shit!
The job for a residential compressor swap is more involved than that of the same job in a commercial refrigerator so, in the scheme of things, it’s very expensive… it’s august 15th, 2023 and my company charges $1650.00 for most all reach in cooler types.. uprights, work tops, prep stations etc… single door and on up to three door models! So your residential fridge is higher than that!
Give or take a few bucks based the labor time…
Ok thanks I tried it and it works..thing is thought this is a 12 inch lay down compressor it gets real hot ..shiuld it? And also you ha a kick start wire on this..hot..griund and kickstart and of course the lightning ground..im trying to figure out hot to wire it into my control box/regulator switch on my tank got any idea?? Thanks bob
There's common, start, and run, common goes to neutral, run goes to live, and start goes to your capacitor. There's no kickstart, ground, or lightning terminals on these.
How to know compressor no oil or oil low quality sir?
you must drain the oil and to get it back in the suction line will draw the oil into the tank
10 oz. is not enough? or should i add some more?
I cant answer that friend because i dont no how big yours is , but from experience they can take a lot more then they need and still work fine
my compressor is 7''X7''. what do you think sir?
thanks for the reply.
If i was you i would only add 8 oz , in this video we can see that 5 oz allows the sump to spray oil and 8 is plenty extra .. as i said in the video do not use Estor oil or the oil that these units use when they are pumping refrigerant gases. Estor oil absorbs water and moisture . air compressor oil would probably be the best . on mine i used a self tapping screw that has a rubber washer on it , the kind used for screwing corrugated sheet metal to roofs or barns to put a drain hole in the unit . then i simply place a hose on the intake line and sucked the oil into the unit . the tank is the vacuum side of the device , it does not fill with pressure so you can just let the unit vacuum 8 oz of oil in seconds ....
very well said sir, you help me a lot thanks for your help. very informative video :)
Hi did you remove the Ptc overload protection?
yes but you need an on off switch to tickle the start winding to take the place of the ptc relay
NOBOX7 thanks
I am concerned that the automotive oil may damage the electrical insulation of the motor, especially when it gets hot.
this pump still works
Engine oil isn't designed to corrode stuff, imagine if that happened inside your engine, that would suck. You can use other oils to if you'd rather, mineral oil is similar in formulation to transformer oil, and often used as a substitute diy transformer oil, so there shouldn't be any damage there. That being said many people do this with engine oil and I've never heard of anyone having issues with insulation degradation from engine oil.
Best video!
Just dump oil in?
it will suck the oil up from a jar or cup
9.3 US fluid oz
Hey bro I got a lay down style freezer compressor ..cant take the top off it so where do I put in my oil ? Can I let the vaccine suck the oil into the unit?
yes infact thats how i fill mine
Why we need to pour oil in compreasor....
Because friction causes wear, and oil reduces friction. Same reason your car needs oil.
Love the video! Now can you just add lucas oil to the compressor!!
any oil will do but compressore oil is best because they can handle moister best
HOW TO REPLACE PISTON IN THIS COMPRESSOR PLEASE
SUNIL DHIMAN These compressors cannot be rebuilt unfortunately. It would be a waste of time because you can just buy a new one. It would be cool if you didn’t have to cut them open because it would make servicing and scrapping them easier.
@@MonsterLegoTruck you can service them so long as you find the parts. The cylinder can be unbolted from the motor frame and the piston/conrod pair will slide off the crankshaft along with the cylinder, pull the old one out, put the new one is, and boom, you're done. It's finding the parts that's the hard part. I never buy them because they're so expensive but I had one that had burnt windings from a bad capacitor and one with a broken conrod, both same brand but different models. I put the conrod from the burnt out unit into the cylinder of the broken unit because they were the same size.
@@lazyh-online4839 and you weld them back together and put oil in it?? That's interesting
@@MonsterLegoTruck I actually welded a replaceable lid on mine, thought it'd be easier to weld the hinge and seal onto it and clean out any welding slag rather than risk the welding slag getting into the compressor without knowing until it locked up. I know, I probably just overcomplicated the whole thing but I was younger then. I tried using weather stripping for a while as a seal but then I heard of supergluing nitrile o-rings and made a more durable one from a bucket lid seal.
@@MonsterLegoTruck I will say, I got VERY lucky finding two compressors with matching piston sizes, took them apart on a whim to see if fitting them was even possible. Most that I've hacked apart are all slightly different and don't match up. Even if the bearing and cylinder are the same diameter, you need to make sure the length is the same or you either have dead space or your piston will crash into the cylinder.
Nice
THANKS ,, it took alot of research to figure put the oil type details , every body claims it must have the original oil turned out that was so wrong , so be careful what you take in
How to make a mess!
As long as the compressor takes ester oil and the system has been exposed to the ambient air for over 15 minutes, you have to replace the compressor. aEven if the compressor is running and test good. The problem is ester oil is hydro miscopic and you can't remove the moisture from the oil.
your confusing me, this video is not about repairing a pump its about repurposing the pump as a vacuum pump or compressor replacing with oil that can be used in air applications , obviously you didnt watch the video but thanks for the info any way
NOBOX7 so 5-30W oil was what youd use on these types of pumps if using for vacuum applications? Mines a long tall cyliner type from a window ac unit
Changing the oil removes the moisture. I had one running with the poe oil for a year before I changed it out with mineral oil, the old oil looked like frothy snot when I poured it out but the compressor has still been running for another two years since then as a silent air compressor for my mini desk shop.
Hi do you think that is is viable to add this oil into the coolant system if a car to then make it become a condensing unit type of air con unit in youtuber brey213. Suzuki joe booker shows a green fluid in the radiator and he talks of methanol and alcohol so may these to intereact causing the engine to freeze as. Joe states in joe cell horses mouth. Any replies appreciated
i would have to look into joe booker
None of those concepts relate to each other, the green liquid is coolant for the engine, ac is not in the engine it's part of the refrigerant system, neither relates to engines locking up, and none of the above relates to the NON-automotive ac pump in the video.
Compressor oil change
not enough oil,too much air
It works just fine as is in the video.
call it quits fuck it! lol
Just another guy trying to act like an expert while experimenting with something he knows nothing about.
+Wood Wright actually i posted this video after i found myself confronted with the problem of what kind of oil to put in this thing after i did some work to it , then i wondered well how much does it need? so i made this video to help others but people like you definitely make it hard to want to share information
NOBOX7 pay no attention thanks for the vid man.
Use Shell Tellus 68 or an equivalent. If you have the brand and model of the compressor, the data sheet will tell you how much oil you need.
NOBOX7. Don't listen to that bitter hater, great vid.
NOBOX7 Must be a paid troll, nice video in any case!