You really are a jack of all trades, Scotty. I can’t be the only one that watches your videos and thinks how much I’d love to drop my project off to you to take care of all the frustrating little jobs.
Can we get a big CHEERS MATE for Matt! For keeping Scotty safe from the tangled mess of zip ties and reworked wiring we all love to hate oh so much. The young fella needs at least a two drink a week raise!! Hey, who else was waiting for the dad joke after the chat on "pumping it up with a combo of short then short and long strokes".....?
@@STREETMACHINETV Haha, funny but you are still on report for dropping the ball mate! Now I want you to think about what you have done over a few cans and have a good weekend!!!
Look into changing the pivot point on the pedal so you fix the pedal ratio which will improve the pedal feel greatly. Non boosted pedal ratio should be closer to 6:1 where as boosted pedals can be about 3:1
Indeed The pedal should also be higher with more travel to give the same swept volume of fluid capability. The reason is if you ever loose a line or have a hose leak you can still get some braking even though the pedal is very low. The idea is enough fluid flow in a single push to give 50% of the volume of the plumbing to the caliper plus the full working volume of the caliper cylinders. If you don't you should have an automatic cut off valve in the system to prevent completely draining all the fluid before the brakes stop working. These are often integral with the master cylinder but sometimes not. The ratio does need to be increased but usually 4.5~5.5 to 1 is enough as the pedal can get quite high.
Another good video Scotty! Yes, sucks that you couldn't keep a boosted brake solution but you gotta do what you gotta do eh? Still, very excited to see how the Lexcen will turn out! Keep up the great work mate!
Mate it's always the small jobs that take the longest. I had to fit some new gauges to my boat the other day. Even a standard replacement Yamaha Speedo gauge wouldn't fit due to the pressure sensor hitting the mounting bracket. So then the bracket has to be modified. This build is coming along great. I see your Instagram & comment on the posts. It's looking schmick now.
Hey Scotty, have ya had a look at Hydro boost? It runs off ya power steering pump and replaces the brake booster. I'm researching them for my Impala that has a lumpy cam.
Tip. Brakes are often made by one or two companies for all the vehicles made in the country. This means that parts of a Ford will often fit a gm or Chrysler. So if something doesn’t fit your mod look at what’s available from other brands.
lol please let the next project be a TE Cortina PLEASE ... oh the joys of a 250ci i6 cross flow with 2V carby ... memories of a youth well spent ... whoa that was a head spin :)
A possible intake manifold solution for you is a really nice looking sheet metal manifold made by a company called Clumatetune. I’ve seen them make good power on some 1UZ powered drift cars.
Simple solution to the harder brake pedal, put some brake pads thats more aggressive in grip then it takes up for the lack of a booster. I use hawk hps for small light cars and dtc60 for heavier vehicles
Unless I`m missing some tech data [please inform me ] removing the booster will lower the clamping force [pads to disc] and psi . The master cylinder bore and pedal ratio should change ?? [longer pedal stroke [high leverage to increase psi ] /higher effort and smaller bore to achieve higher psi ].
Lucky that this Lexcen did not have ABS. Also aas others have mentioned most likely a PBR booster from a Falcon would of worked especially from EB onwards as Ford had the same issues when they re-inserted the Mustang 5.0L HO V8 and had to convert it from LHD to RHD. of course not 100% sure but I do know that Ford had those issues at that time.
I’ve done a booster delete kit in my torana , the pedal is surprisingly good thought it would be rock hard but apparently it’s all to do with the bore size of the master
Hay mate if the manual brakes are not great marks 4x4 do a hydrolic assist break booster that run off your power steering pump if your running power steering.
Why not add a dual diaphragm remote brake booster? Then it can be mounted out of the way, maybe behind the guard? Adds onto the set up you have. Would make things comfie as when braking.
Hay, did you have a look around for a remote booster? I had the same problem years ago, and found a booster that could be mounted anywhere. Worked a treat to .
Non boosted brakes are fine :-) You just have to allow for more reaction time with 4 wheel jam tins (Drum brakes) and make sure proportioning and adjustment is good, Disc/drum combo's can be tricky but again if the system is looked after they are fiiiine. The Willwood with the proportioning valve especially near the 1 inch bore will be a nice pedal with a bit of adjustment, Used one on a VG Sedan with a disc conversion and once dialled in with softed Disc pads she was better than a good OE boosted setup even chucking her around the Mt Dandy tourist road back in the day.
Which was fine before ADR rules on minimum stopping distances. Dr Tim did some good articles explaining this stuff a few years ago in Australian street rodder. Pedal effort has to match a certain amount of force out with the booster and master cylinder. Going to a smalller bore size (vs was 1.25" by then?) Should compensate.
I remember my first experience with un-assisted brakes - a 1975 Triumph Spitfire - scared the hell out of me as I pushed harder and harder and still nothing seemed to be happening...
@@Low760 Disc/drum combo with solid fronts and 7/8th bore and the proportioning setup worked quiet well, I did re-line the entire car both hard and soft lines which made a big difference and applied that knowledge to a mates VB Commodore later on and both carss tested better than OE on the decelerometer. Worth mentioning that the Willwood master also has a slightly longer stroke and all in all was a great modern package considering I bought it all from the Summit catalogue (Before Online was a thing :-) The Val was quiet a light car too so front rear bias took some fiddling for wet weather but as id gone right through the entire system inc slave cyls on the drums etc it produced fantastic results. :-)
Just a heads up you know you can get hand held double flaring tools and they are a bit more work but are only $80 or so. Much easier in compact spaces.
@@STREETMACHINETV The cheap double flare tools are not good but there are pro versions I would highly recommend. The one I was thinking about was from Proflow.
Is it possible to do a remote booster setup if need be? She is coming along well. I dont have a project at the moment so living my car mod jollies through this channel 👍
Scotty not sure if it what you were after i think that prop valve bracket is for lhd mine mount on the on the other side (gaurd side) just letting you know there is an option
@@STREETMACHINETV theyre a good set up about to do valiant number 3 now , great looking set up and work well , i think theres a vid on my channel on the ap6
Awesome skills mate . On another note , being a Gasfitter, I can’t help noticing the open ended natural gas ball valve. Just being turned off and not being plugged . Might want to get a licensed pro to make that safe ? Not really legal atm. FYI anyway! 👍
Why not use a inline booster you can put the thing any were in the engine bay you can probably put it in the boot if you had to if you have good vacuum
@@STREETMACHINETV okay I figured it was an appearance thing. Like you said though…you grew up on manual brakes, so you know what to expect. I never did, so I would’ve tried to keep the brake booster. That WILWOOD sure looks good though!
Don't chuck those rags in the bin, Scotty! There's no better feeling on a hot Summer day than wiping the sweat off your face with a rag contaminated with brake fluid! Blasting yourself in the face with the garden hose for ten minutes really cools you down!
@@STREETMACHINETV new to me as well, they are a great option for improving the brakes on a 70 series landcruiser. You go from 1000 psi to 2000psi, so you have to run braided lines as well. Cheers.
So this master cylinder is signed off by an engineer for this age car? I guess being a smaller bore the answer is yes but still. Will you be going to vt front brakes? Or even ve?
You guys are obsessed with "engineers" :) I think I've only had one car engineered in my life. Plenty of my mates have engineers certificates and they still get defected.
@@STREETMACHINETV sorry, I mean crs, I know they get parts/kits engineer inspected and they come with certificates. Not if a turbo 1uz V8 commodore will have an engineer's certificate.
At least you put out more episodes than the binky lot! Thanks Scotty!
"Begin slowly using full strokes, then a combination of short and long strokes"
Scotty.... a missed opportunity. I'm not mad, just disappointed.
I know right. When I reviewed the video I was like "OMG! how did I miss that!"
You really are a jack of all trades, Scotty. I can’t be the only one that watches your videos and thinks how much I’d love to drop my project off to you to take care of all the frustrating little jobs.
Can we get a big CHEERS MATE for Matt! For keeping Scotty safe from the tangled mess of zip ties and reworked wiring we all love to hate oh so much.
The young fella needs at least a two drink a week raise!!
Hey, who else was waiting for the dad joke after the chat on "pumping it up with a combo of short then short and long strokes".....?
Missed opportunity
@@STREETMACHINETV Haha, funny but you are still on report for dropping the ball mate!
Now I want you to think about what you have done over a few cans and have a good weekend!!!
Look into changing the pivot point on the pedal so you fix the pedal ratio which will improve the pedal feel greatly. Non boosted pedal ratio should be closer to 6:1 where as boosted pedals can be about 3:1
Indeed The pedal should also be higher with more travel to give the same swept volume of fluid capability. The reason is if you ever loose a line or have a hose leak you can still get some braking even though the pedal is very low. The idea is enough fluid flow in a single push to give 50% of the volume of the plumbing to the caliper plus the full working volume of the caliper cylinders. If you don't you should have an automatic cut off valve in the system to prevent completely draining all the fluid before the brakes stop working. These are often integral with the master cylinder but sometimes not. The ratio does need to be increased but usually 4.5~5.5 to 1 is enough as the pedal can get quite high.
I love watching these build vids. Doing some amazing work mate, jealous of your skills and knowledge
I've had mine for 2 years you've just motivated me to do the brake pipes..
Always seems like i make the most perfect flares while the nut is laying on the bench laughing at me😂
Truth
Anyone who has ever made a brake line has done that at least once.
Another good video Scotty! Yes, sucks that you couldn't keep a boosted brake solution but you gotta do what you gotta do eh? Still, very excited to see how the Lexcen will turn out! Keep up the great work mate!
It's starting to look really good. Check out my Scottys_Grarage instagram
@@STREETMACHINETV hahaha I already do follow you over there mate! Seeing it in video form just hits different haha
And some change the brake pedal in the car to have a bit more leverage.
Top work Scotty the weapon is taking shape !!👍🍻
Mate it's always the small jobs that take the longest. I had to fit some new gauges to my boat the other day. Even a standard replacement Yamaha Speedo gauge wouldn't fit due to the pressure sensor hitting the mounting bracket. So then the bracket has to be modified.
This build is coming along great. I see your Instagram & comment on the posts. It's looking schmick now.
Hey Scotty, have ya had a look at Hydro boost? It runs off ya power steering pump and replaces the brake booster. I'm researching them for my Impala that has a lumpy cam.
I hadn't heard of them until recently but will look into them for future builds
Tip.
Brakes are often made by one or two companies for all the vehicles made in the country.
This means that parts of a Ford will often fit a gm or Chrysler.
So if something doesn’t fit your mod look at what’s available from other brands.
I’ve got an AU Falcon reservoir on my commodore master cylinder 😉👍 Needed it cos I’ve got a VX master cylinder on my VS.
lol please let the next project be a TE Cortina PLEASE ... oh the joys of a 250ci i6 cross flow with 2V carby ... memories of a youth well spent ... whoa that was a head spin :)
A possible intake manifold solution for you is a really nice looking sheet metal manifold made by a company called Clumatetune. I’ve seen them make good power on some 1UZ powered drift cars.
Worth mentioning for the young fellas - drum brakes have servo assistance so booster not so necessary.
Remote booster wouldve been a smarter choice financially
Simple solution to the harder brake pedal, put some brake pads thats more aggressive in grip then it takes up for the lack of a booster. I use hawk hps for small light cars and dtc60 for heavier vehicles
Told you 😉 good to see the build coming together mate.
You could make it vacuum assured by installing a VH440 remote booster like the old Holdens and valiants had. Is an easy fit!
Easy fit where? there's no space with turbo and piping
Unless I`m missing some tech data [please inform me ] removing the booster will lower the clamping force [pads to disc] and psi . The master cylinder bore and pedal ratio should change ?? [longer pedal stroke [high leverage to increase psi ] /higher effort and smaller bore to achieve higher psi ].
My first car was an EJ Holden. No Booster and drum front brakes :)
Lucky that this Lexcen did not have ABS. Also aas others have mentioned most likely a PBR booster from a Falcon would of worked especially from EB onwards as Ford had the same issues when they re-inserted the Mustang 5.0L HO V8 and had to convert it from LHD to RHD. of course not 100% sure but I do know that Ford had those issues at that time.
Hey Scotty
Check out StealthSS in Warrawong NSW..in car under dash booster kit (ford)/pedal box...
Good luck on the build,mate
Remote mount booster under dash fits ezy next to string colum
I’ve done a booster delete kit in my torana , the pedal is surprisingly good thought it would be rock hard but apparently it’s all to do with the bore size of the master
Good to know
Hay mate if the manual brakes are not great marks 4x4 do a hydrolic assist break booster that run off your power steering pump if your running power steering.
O another brakect. 😂 Binkiy I think is sitting idle. 😮 Good to your breaks sorted. 👍
Why not add a dual diaphragm remote brake booster? Then it can be mounted out of the way, maybe behind the guard? Adds onto the set up you have. Would make things comfie as when braking.
There's not a lot of room anywhere in this car. We'll see how we go with this set-up.
@STREETMACHINETV Scotty did you adjust the proportion valve. How did you adjust the proportion valve
@@stephenstergiou1972 not yet
@@STREETMACHINETV do a video on proportion valves pls
i love watching these build vids you are so talented and
Hay, did you have a look around for a remote booster? I had the same problem years ago, and found a booster that could be mounted anywhere. Worked a treat to .
TGIF!! Thanks for the great vid, keep up the hard work 😊
Scotty got to ask why not a remote booster?
Cheers
Brake booster problem , good idea Scotty )))
Non boosted brakes are fine :-)
You just have to allow for more reaction time with 4 wheel jam tins (Drum brakes) and make sure proportioning and adjustment is good, Disc/drum combo's can be tricky but again if the system is looked after they are fiiiine.
The Willwood with the proportioning valve especially near the 1 inch bore will be a nice pedal with a bit of adjustment, Used one on a VG Sedan with a disc conversion and once dialled in with softed Disc pads she was better than a good OE boosted setup even chucking her around the Mt Dandy tourist road back in the day.
Which was fine before ADR rules on minimum stopping distances. Dr Tim did some good articles explaining this stuff a few years ago in Australian street rodder. Pedal effort has to match a certain amount of force out with the booster and master cylinder. Going to a smalller bore size (vs was 1.25" by then?) Should compensate.
I remember my first experience with un-assisted brakes - a 1975 Triumph Spitfire - scared the hell out of me as I pushed harder and harder and still nothing seemed to be happening...
@@Low760 Disc/drum combo with solid fronts and 7/8th bore and the proportioning setup worked quiet well, I did re-line the entire car both hard and soft lines which made a big difference and applied that knowledge to a mates VB Commodore later on and both carss tested better than OE on the decelerometer.
Worth mentioning that the Willwood master also has a slightly longer stroke and all in all was a great modern package considering I bought it all from the Summit catalogue (Before Online was a thing :-)
The Val was quiet a light car too so front rear bias took some fiddling for wet weather but as id gone right through the entire system inc slave cyls on the drums etc it produced fantastic results. :-)
@@Beer_Dad1975 BWahahahaha Pommy brake systems, Dont get me started on Girling................ Fkn Rovers :-)
Just a heads up you know you can get hand held double flaring tools and they are a bit more work but are only $80 or so. Much easier in compact spaces.
Never had much success with them, but I must admit that usually I've tried the cheap ones
@@STREETMACHINETV The cheap double flare tools are not good but there are pro versions I would highly recommend. The one I was thinking about was from Proflow.
@@dazaspc I'll check it out
Great job on the detail work Scotty, this things going to be awesome!
Cheers Pat
Love it Scotty! By chance @08:36 did you happen to install those block of bolts on the wrong side?
Umm, no, because the hardware for the proportioning valve only works one way
Is it possible to do a remote booster setup if need be? She is coming along well. I dont have a project at the moment so living my car mod jollies through this channel 👍
If it doesn't stop we'll look at remote booster options, but right now I just want the car up and running
I was almost expecting the engine to not fit again at the end... Hope you're finally past this hurdle.
It all fits now. Looks great too with the pipework and everything
Scotty not sure if it what you were after i think that prop valve bracket is for lhd mine mount on the on the other side (gaurd side) just letting you know there is an option
Yeah, I know about that but it clears the engine (just) and the lines are all done now, so I'll stick with this
@@STREETMACHINETV theyre a good set up about to do valiant number 3 now , great looking set up and work well , i think theres a vid on my channel on the ap6
Would there be any space for a remote servo now you’ve gone to the survey delete kit?
Great job but could you not have used an inline booster?
No Scotty video is complete without some shifer action.❤❤
Awesome skills mate .
On another note , being a Gasfitter, I can’t help noticing the open ended natural gas ball valve. Just being turned off and not being plugged . Might want to get a licensed pro to make that safe ? Not really legal atm. FYI anyway! 👍
Thanks for the info
It's probably disconnected at the gas meter on the building exterior.
I did tell you this 1st up no?? Yr welcome Scotty 🤣
Why not use a inline booster you can put the thing any were in the engine bay you can probably put it in the boot if you had to if you have good vacuum
Great kit, be nice if they had one with a line lock.
Question: If the coil packs did not fit then why not go with LS coil packs remotely mounted and use spark plug wires?
Good question, I just think they would be untidy. I want this engine bay to look its absolute best.
@@STREETMACHINETV okay I figured it was an appearance thing. Like you said though…you grew up on manual brakes, so you know what to expect. I never did, so I would’ve tried to keep the brake booster. That WILWOOD sure looks good though!
Dont you want to put the bias valve on the other side to get more room? Or cant it fit there
Requires different brackets and lines. It does fit with the engine - just!
Rod shop need to change the blown Torana sticker to the Ferrari engine now lol
Don't chuck those rags in the bin, Scotty! There's no better feeling on a hot Summer day than wiping the sweat off your face with a rag contaminated with brake fluid! Blasting yourself in the face with the garden hose for ten minutes really cools you down!
Haha
Interested to see the engine fit back in there..
It fits fine, look at my instagram
@@STREETMACHINETV sweet. Was thinking it would be close.
Great stuff, just wondering why you did not use a hydro booster?
Because I hadn't even heard of them before last week
@@STREETMACHINETV new to me as well, they are a great option for improving the brakes on a 70 series landcruiser. You go from 1000 psi to 2000psi, so you have to run braided lines as well. Cheers.
I commented on you're last vid about hydo booster that runs off the power steering pump. Did you look into that?
We already had done this. We're about two weeks ahead of the videos
@@STREETMACHINETV ahh yep of course.
At least people have let you know it exists for future builds now.
Scotty, would a pneumatic brake bleeder be no good? I bought one years ago and its one of the best investments ever..
Yeah, they're handy, but I don't have one in the workshop
where can one find a Matt Minion? they seem useful.
Very handy
Hi do you have room for a remote booster .old school used on 1960's rally cars .
There's not a lot of room for anything
Will the non boosted system be legal?
Meh, who knows
Everybody love project binky 😂😂😂
I love Project Binky as well
How come u couldnt go a ls style coils n some leads then u could of kept the booster
Because it would have looked shit :)
@@STREETMACHINETV fair call haha
Are you going to support the master to stop the fire wall breaking out? The skid factory covered this on the vl build
I'll check it out
Its fitted to the original mount area
Damn, still no ‘that’s what she said’ scottieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Just curious how much was the brake kit cost?
Check out the CRS website
@@STREETMACHINETV no worries mate will do 👍
It's Castlemaine Rod Shop, there's no R in Castlemaine just ask the locals lol
Haha, yeah well. The locals are weird :)
It isn't carstlemaine? Haha
Friday is always made better when I turn on the TV and see Scottys mug in a new video 😂
Will turbo taxi ever return?😁😁
Yep, when temperatures improve. Too cold to tune LPG at the moment
Slowly but surely mate.
Big progess next video, it's all coming together now.
@@STREETMACHINETV - mate I just want to hear that Toyota v8 in a Toyota wagon ... drive it past Toyota HQ in Melbourne once its all done.
At 21min insert "that's what she said"
👍👍👍👍
Is this an ABS car? Just thinking about if it’s an ABS car how are you going to get an engineer’s certificate? I probably have it arse about
Not ABS
@@STREETMACHINETV see I called it, I got it arse about hahaha
HI ALL
Moral of the story use the orange one's Scottie lol
Yep
Y didn't u just relocate the booster
Have you ever relocated a booster? It's sooooo painful
Old future scotty has a lot of work cut out for him
Sure does
woohoo
Wouldn't be street legal no dual circuit boosted on all my builds
It is dual curcuit
So this master cylinder is signed off by an engineer for this age car? I guess being a smaller bore the answer is yes but still.
Will you be going to vt front brakes? Or even ve?
You guys are obsessed with "engineers" :)
I think I've only had one car engineered in my life. Plenty of my mates have engineers certificates and they still get defected.
@@STREETMACHINETV sorry, I mean crs, I know they get parts/kits engineer inspected and they come with certificates. Not if a turbo 1uz V8 commodore will have an engineer's certificate.
@@Low760 fair enough
What about a 1uz Lexcen screams "Street machine"... like cmon man... Wheres the torrie you picked up?!
A turbo V8 Sleeper is core "Street Machine", always has been
Willwood now you have an unroadworthy car lol.
Do yourself a favour and make up some 270* tubes out of copper tubes 👍
😜👍🇦🇺
😂 I didnt say anything did I
I don't know, did you?
@@STREETMACHINETV nothing at all big fella