Awesome video Chris 👏 I installed and uninstalled the AP a few times on the sti I was so damn paranoid when I first got it. I have been running stage 1 for a few months now and I am waiting for my Cobb Carbon fibber intake. I’m glad you kept the STI like I said prior you just got it to stage 3 enjoy it and keep up the content. Ohh and last thing I was not a fan of the truck build but I watch each video and the final result came out 🔥
I remember when I had an 08 LGT Spec B. I immediately removed the ots map and yanked my access port out. The paranoia was ridiculous. It was picking up a ghost knock and I wasn’t very knowledgeable at the time so I figured my engine was about to pop. Boy was it a relief to get that think removed. Unfortunately it was totaled so I no longer have it. On the bright side I longer worry about every foreign noise coming from the car :)
Great video! I’m almost at 3 years of ownership on my 2020 WRX and thinking of pulling the trigger on a stage 1+ E-tune from bren tuning with the COBB big SF intake. Also, i’m really surprised the EJs don’t come with an oil temperature gauge from the factory. I always drive like a grandma until i’m at operating temps haha.
I was tuned by Brentuning last July and they are rock solid! I got a E85 e-tune and made 310 on 91 and 375 on E85! Car only has a muffler delete and just the parts needed for the flex fuel! I just recently installed a process west top mount and waiting to get retuned
If I'm not mistaking, the boost gauge on the Cobb and center console both use the MAP sensor, so it'd show the same for sure. Also what's the point in the coolant gauge if you have one in the dash? I'd recommend people replace boost and coolant and put af learning 1 and af corrections 1, then add the numbers together at any given time, if they go to -25 or 25 under constant throttle, you likely have issues mechanically or tune. Ideally should be tuned to stay within -10/10. But it's important because if it's maxing out it won't correct fuel any further after 25%, so you could run leaner or richer depending if positive or negative I built my 2011 STI and have been learning tuning, so just wanted to post my thoughts
Correct about the boost gauge. However, accessport shows the last peak boost hit on your current drive. The mfd gauge just shows the peak boost hit of all time. It’s more of a gimmick thing to me. The accessport shows it down to the hundredth and is a much more accurate gauge to keep your eyes on. Temp gauge on the dash is a tach. I prefer o have a digital coolant gauge showing me the exact temp so I know what is going on at all times. Yea, plenty of other data to monitor. I would recommend injector duty cycle as well if you want to keep an eye on those as well.
People should know when you plug in the Accessport it makes you flash stage 0 Cobb tune (OEM tune) at minimum just to use it. So it can cause warranty issues. I asked Cobb directly since I’m still in warranty period and wanted to use it just for monitoring till I was ready to get a tune.
just to mention. phantom knocks on the feed back sensor can in fact be triggered from bad shifting, aircon, pot holes, sudden breaking.. this list can go on. So dont freak out! lol
As the new owner of used sti, makes me confident now that I did Comp AOS, Cyl4 Mod, and got a proper pro tune by someone highly reputable. At first, I was afraid the EJ was a bit of a ticking time bomb, and that does seem to be true if you let it be is what it seems lmao. With a good amount of RA blocks out there pushing crazy horsepower, I can't help but notice 15-18 blocks also pushing some really respectable numbers as well. It gives me the impression that as a platform, the EJ257 RA or 08+ is at a point where professionals have gotten them down pretty damn good in terms of reliability. Really helpful video - also seems like the other half of keeping things reliable is finding a happy medium with the Anxietyport and not doing backroad laps when it's 93f outside lol. Who'd of thunk.
Bingo! It all comes down to how the car is treated and the extent you go when modifying. Not to say all the reliability mods are going to bulletproof the EJ, but it will certainly help and prolong the health of the motor. Just need to be smart about it and if modifying, to do it correctly. Also, maintenance. Can't stress that enough. Maintenance before mods.
Very informative video. I have a 2020 Sti and I am thinking of going stage 1+ with the Cobb access port and SF intake. Will an OTS tune or pro tune affect the SI drive?
My feedback knock gives out -4.20 but i never actually see it register to -4.2 i always see it flash to -1.4 and go down any ideas? should i be worried? also my FKL entering boost hits -1.4 is it just learning?
Question, my 2014 sti has a Perrin exhaust on it (came with the car when i bought it used) and I hate how it sounds. I'm thinking of getting a Tomei exhaust for it but I was wondering if I need to get another tune once I install that Tomei. If it's from one aftermarket exhaust to another, do I still need to bring it into a shop to get it tuned again? thanks
One rogue higher number doesn’t mean it’s the end. Especially if you weren’t under wot. Again, the accessport is there to monitor and keep an eye on things. If it happens more consistently, then you can react then.
-7 is bad. Honestly. If you consistently see -1.40 especially when doing a WOT run. You have to figure that out. A knock at peak boost can do some serious damage.
My 2020 wrx recently started to pick up -3.81 to -4.22 for feedback knock when im 1/4 throttle. Should i be on high alert? I asked around and majority of the answers were because of bad gas
There are a lot of factors that come into play when you start getting some actual knock. Gas definitely can play a roll in it. I would be more concerned if the DAM dropped while getting the knock. However, keep an eye on it, especially under WOT.
Are you modified? I would go to a reputable Subaru shop to examine what’s going on. Could be anything from a boost/vacuum leak all the way up to something more in depth.
Don’t want to be over 14.7 when wot on afr (over 14.7 is running too lean). Anything lower than 11.1 or so is too rich. So you want to be in that sweet spot of 11.5-10.5 at full wot. Keep in mind, what fuel you use as well is a factor in these numbers. You'll get more consistent readings when on 93 than a lesser grade octane level. Oil temp should be around 200 when at full operating temp.
No, 11.5 to 10.5. You want to be a little on the richer side to keep things running properly and healthy. Too much fuel is better than not enough fuel! Wideband is before the cat (cat is downstream of the DP). You want the wideband closest to the turbo as possible to get the most accurate readings.
Just got my Accessport today for my 21 STi, this video could not have had better timing! Thank you!
Awesome video Chris 👏 I installed and uninstalled the AP a few times on the sti I was so damn paranoid when I first got it. I have been running stage 1 for a few months now and I am waiting for my Cobb Carbon fibber intake. I’m glad you kept the STI like I said prior you just got it to stage 3 enjoy it and keep up the content. Ohh and last thing I was not a fan of the truck build but I watch each video and the final result came out 🔥
Glad it helped and thank you for the support!
I remember when I had an 08 LGT Spec B. I immediately removed the ots map and yanked my access port out. The paranoia was ridiculous. It was picking up a ghost knock and I wasn’t very knowledgeable at the time so I figured my engine was about to pop. Boy was it a relief to get that think removed. Unfortunately it was totaled so I no longer have it. On the bright side I longer worry about every foreign noise coming from the car :)
Aka anxietyport
Good knowledge. My car modified too. Occasional crazy knock numbers
Great video! I’m almost at 3 years of ownership on my 2020 WRX and thinking of pulling the trigger on a stage 1+ E-tune from bren tuning with the COBB big SF intake. Also, i’m really surprised the EJs don’t come with an oil temperature gauge from the factory. I always drive like a grandma until i’m at operating temps haha.
Old tech here. We need to install a wired oil temp gauge like the old days haha.
I was tuned by Brentuning last July and they are rock solid! I got a E85 e-tune and made 310 on 91 and 375 on E85! Car only has a muffler delete and just the parts needed for the flex fuel! I just recently installed a process west top mount and waiting to get retuned
If I'm not mistaking, the boost gauge on the Cobb and center console both use the MAP sensor, so it'd show the same for sure.
Also what's the point in the coolant gauge if you have one in the dash?
I'd recommend people replace boost and coolant and put af learning 1 and af corrections 1, then add the numbers together at any given time, if they go to -25 or 25 under constant throttle, you likely have issues mechanically or tune. Ideally should be tuned to stay within -10/10. But it's important because if it's maxing out it won't correct fuel any further after 25%, so you could run leaner or richer depending if positive or negative
I built my 2011 STI and have been learning tuning, so just wanted to post my thoughts
Correct about the boost gauge. However, accessport shows the last peak boost hit on your current drive. The mfd gauge just shows the peak boost hit of all time. It’s more of a gimmick thing to me. The accessport shows it down to the hundredth and is a much more accurate gauge to keep your eyes on.
Temp gauge on the dash is a tach. I prefer o have a digital coolant gauge showing me the exact temp so I know what is going on at all times.
Yea, plenty of other data to monitor. I would recommend injector duty cycle as well if you want to keep an eye on those as well.
@@Autofreakgarage That makes sense, though AF learning and corrections are still way more important to monitor
People should know when you plug in the Accessport it makes you flash stage 0 Cobb tune (OEM tune) at minimum just to use it. So it can cause warranty issues. I asked Cobb directly since I’m still in warranty period and wanted to use it just for monitoring till I was ready to get a tune.
Great video explanation was súper am been getting 2.8 on my sti 2012 I was little scared but I guess is all normal thanks 🙏 great video like always
Super helpful video man! I know all of these features, but you gave some great nuggets that I didn't know about!
just to mention. phantom knocks on the feed back sensor can in fact be triggered from bad shifting, aircon, pot holes, sudden breaking.. this list can go on. So dont freak out! lol
Absolutely! People have seen “knock” just from turning on the a/c. The sensors are very sensitive!
Great video always looking forward to learn more since I'm new to the subi world, thanks.
Thank you. You helped me again
As the new owner of used sti, makes me confident now that I did Comp AOS, Cyl4 Mod, and got a proper pro tune by someone highly reputable. At first, I was afraid the EJ was a bit of a ticking time bomb, and that does seem to be true if you let it be is what it seems lmao. With a good amount of RA blocks out there pushing crazy horsepower, I can't help but notice 15-18 blocks also pushing some really respectable numbers as well. It gives me the impression that as a platform, the EJ257 RA or 08+ is at a point where professionals have gotten them down pretty damn good in terms of reliability. Really helpful video - also seems like the other half of keeping things reliable is finding a happy medium with the Anxietyport and not doing backroad laps when it's 93f outside lol. Who'd of thunk.
Bingo! It all comes down to how the car is treated and the extent you go when modifying. Not to say all the reliability mods are going to bulletproof the EJ, but it will certainly help and prolong the health of the motor. Just need to be smart about it and if modifying, to do it correctly. Also, maintenance. Can't stress that enough. Maintenance before mods.
awesome video man thanks for the info. Do you mind tell me where you got your knob shift? it looks amazing.
th-cam.com/video/qK1mLyiAw0k/w-d-xo.html
My dam would drop to 850 and to 750 but the car would be running fine , and then my highest feedback knock was at -8
This helped me a lot thank you
Where’d you get that vent mount for the AP? I see them all over Amazon but I don’t want to get one that’s junk.
th-cam.com/video/NQGwqsaA2to/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yfTS5yMF7AMJ5-UE
Very informative video. I have a 2020 Sti and I am thinking of going stage 1+ with the Cobb access port and SF intake. Will an OTS tune or pro tune affect the SI drive?
For both options, it’s tuned just like stock. Different levels of boost and throttle input.
My feedback knock gives out -4.20 but i never actually see it register to -4.2 i always see it flash to -1.4 and go down any ideas? should i be worried? also my FKL entering boost hits -1.4 is it just learning?
That’s pretty high. I would definitely be concerned if I was hitting above the normal -2.8.
Can DAM dropping to 8.something mean bad spark plugs ?
It can mean a lot of things. Bad gas, plugs, etc.
@@Autofreakgarage Thank you. I'm getting new spark plugs next week.
Question, my 2014 sti has a Perrin exhaust on it (came with the car when i bought it used) and I hate how it sounds. I'm thinking of getting a Tomei exhaust for it but I was wondering if I need to get another tune once I install that Tomei. If it's from one aftermarket exhaust to another, do I still need to bring it into a shop to get it tuned again? thanks
You do not need a tune or have to change your current tune if you just change your catback.
Dont get rid of the STI please.. build it to 450-500WHP and you will not be disappointed trust me.
Hey man. What are the gauges mounted in? I've been looking to run that same set up. Thanks.
Subispeed cubby mount
@@Autofreakgarage Thank you sir. Happy valentine's day
i typically stay in the -1.40 to -2.80 feedback knock but on a rare time i had a -7.00 hope thats okay lol
One rogue higher number doesn’t mean it’s the end. Especially if you weren’t under wot. Again, the accessport is there to monitor and keep an eye on things. If it happens more consistently, then you can react then.
You should definitely worry with -7
@@semaphorism aint worried at all to be honest my tuner actually touched up some stuff
@@MultiBlock43 Thats good! Always good to fix these issues early
-7 is bad. Honestly. If you consistently see -1.40 especially when doing a WOT run. You have to figure that out. A knock at peak boost can do some serious damage.
So my coolant temp is regularly around 190 just idling, what I doin wrong 👁👄👁
I would do a flush and upgrade to the koyo rad while you’re at it.
My 2020 wrx recently started to pick up -3.81 to -4.22 for feedback knock when im 1/4 throttle. Should i be on high alert? I asked around and majority of the answers were because of bad gas
There are a lot of factors that come into play when you start getting some actual knock. Gas definitely can play a roll in it. I would be more concerned if the DAM dropped while getting the knock. However, keep an eye on it, especially under WOT.
@@Autofreakgarage If I’ve had the DAM drop a few times with knock, what should I get checked? Should I go to Subaru or can I go to any shop?
Are you modified? I would go to a reputable Subaru shop to examine what’s going on. Could be anything from a boost/vacuum leak all the way up to something more in depth.
Can I ask a question what should be the normal AFR range when WOT？and oil temp
Don’t want to be over 14.7 when wot on afr (over 14.7 is running too lean). Anything lower than 11.1 or so is too rich. So you want to be in that sweet spot of 11.5-10.5 at full wot. Keep in mind, what fuel you use as well is a factor in these numbers. You'll get more consistent readings when on 93 than a lesser grade octane level.
Oil temp should be around 200 when at full operating temp.
@@Autofreakgarage you mean sweet spot is 11.5 to 12.5 right？thank you so much！
@@Autofreakgarage by the way where is your wideband installed？is it before cat or after cat，the number after cat maybe read higher？
No, 11.5 to 10.5. You want to be a little on the richer side to keep things running properly and healthy. Too much fuel is better than not enough fuel!
Wideband is before the cat (cat is downstream of the DP). You want the wideband closest to the turbo as possible to get the most accurate readings.
@@Autofreakgarage got it，thank you！