If you are clumsy or careless but understand what you are doing, this meter is a better choice than one that costs 10x as much. This meter is not "cheap"; it's inexpensive, which is not the same thing, and it is a good value for what it can do. At the current street price of $10-12, it is a great value. The test lead for a Fluke cost 3x as much as this meter with leads, so it's not fair to compare them. I would recommend it as a good addition to a diyer's car or home toolbox because it is inexpensive enough to easily replace if it gets broken by careless handling. I would NOT recommend a Fluke for those applications, just like I would recommend Mac tools I could confidently use it for service work, but what do I now? I'm not a technician, I'm just an engineer with +40 years hands-on field experience.
The resistance comparisons were failed. At 12:07 the Cheapy is NOT _"half an ohm out"_ at the 8 ohm test - you previously measured the meter leads, but then didn't subtract them! So actually: Cheapy measured 8.8 to 8.9 minus 0.6 to 0.7 leads = average 8.2 ohms Fluke measured 8.38 minus 0.13 leads = 8.25 ohms. DOH At 12:49 you set the Cheapy on it's highest range 2 meg, so of course it cannot see NINE meg and of course "it can only just see" 2 meg. DOH At 100K and 1.5 meg both meters were virtually identical. So it was pretty unfair to say at 14:03 that _"as long as you're staying in the lower ranges, it seems to be fairly accurate"_ .
@@kingdavid4463 -- the meter leads are fairly thin wire, and all wire has resistance. This is only significant for low ohms measurements, so when on the lowest resistance range of the meter, you first must short the 2 leads together and take note of the reading. Then when you take the proper measurement you are getting the total resistance of leads PLUS device under test, so you subtract the resistance of the leads to obtain the true measurement.
As an Electrician in the UK for the last 35 years, I have used multimeters on our 230-240vac supply without incident, I use a Uni-T meter on a daily basis on 3 phase 415vac at work, (never been in a position to own a FLUKE) but would I use a cheap meter, NO. I do use a cheap meter for model railways though and sometimes that means on mains 230vac, but I have changed out the leads for better quality ones. I believe that as long as you know what you are doing on mains voltages and treat it with respect then you can be safe more or less with what ever you use, in fact when I started work as an electrician, the guy I was apprentice to used a bulb in a lamp holder with two bits of wire sticking out and we tested upto 415vac like that, Health and safety or what. Great video keep it up and when is the next railway, sorry railroad instalment coming? Craig
I’m also an electrician in the uk , the first cheep meter he showed I had one of those thourty years ago on AC voltage it was rated for 750v and 1000v DC but my was yellow and had the rubber protector, i used it all my working life until I left it on a site I moved on to uni-T three years ago I have two uni-T machines one is auto ranging there is nothing wrong with those cheap machines as long as you know how to use them correctly and know there limitation’s people that moan about them moan because they don’t trust there own competence and therefore should not be messing around with electronics or electrical systems. That why we spend four years at college training to be electricians and then two years onsite to build our competence and gain experience.
And another scare mongering video on multimeters I’m also an electrician in the uk , the first cheep meter he showed I had one of those thourty years ago ,on AC voltage it was rated for 750v AC and 1000v DC but mine was yellow and had the rubber protector, i used it all my working life including on 415 v three phase until I left it on a site and I have never never had anything go wrong. I moved on to uni-T three years ago I have two uni-T machines one is auto ranging there is nothing wrong with those cheap machines as long as you know how to use them correctly and know there limitation’s people that moan about them moan because they don’t trust there own competence and therefore should not be messing around with electronics or electrical systems. That why we spend four years at college training to be electricians and then two years onsite to build our competence and gain experience.
The grayish solder blobs looks just like lead-free solder not necessarily bad joints. To be as accurate as possible when testing the current ranges, wire the meters in series and view the result simultaneously. This meter is good enough for any circuits below 50 Volts. BTW; I like your videos, keep up the good work.
We have bought one of these exactly same as the one that you are reviewing. We bought it to test 240V but saw you only went up to 220V but useful tip you gave to turn the meter to 600V or it would most likely break it. We just bought it to test some electric cables to see if they are live or not. Thank you for the demo. Much appreciated.
250V+ probably wouldn't break the meter, but these cheap meters don't have the safety features that a better meter would normally have. These cheap meters are fine for low voltage hobby use, but I wouldn't recommend them for regular use on mains voltage.
@@pileofstuff Thank you! For the reply and advice. We will gladly follow it. We only bought it to do small jobs occasionally. Only used it once thus far, not sure when we bought it maybe a year or two ago. Just got some attic wires to check see if they are live. They have been left cut off with a knife by previous owner. We will disconnect them if they are not meant to be connected anywhere else, such as, to an extractor fan or light switch.
I own a few Fluke meters but the XL830L meter I use outdoors on my pontoon boat to check the 12 volt battery status and have used it to troubleshoot a faulty boat horn button. So far it has not fallen in the lake but if it did I would buy another. The best thing about this is the grippy soft rubber case and low price... perfect for basic work around boats, cars, tractors, motorcycles where the risk of dropping the meter is high. I would not think of bringing this near my 220 volt AC main breaker box or using it on a fussy electronics project.... that is what Fluke meters are for. You can find these on ebay for about 6 bucks for that kind of money it would be worth throwing one in the car truck or SUV since any meter is better than no meter and this feels more rugged than some of the cheap hard case meters.
One very positive thing that came from everything being made in China is centralization. Once the Chinese have made the designs for things a few times, it became VERY cheap to have things made. This lead to improvements to the components themselves (because you're selling the SAME ones to everyone) and things like single chip solutions for DMMs or FPGAs for oscilloscopes etc became VERY cheap from the economies of scale. In order to make something that is truly junk - and I mean useless junk - you would have to redesign it completely...so it isn't worth it. This makes it so that the medium end-tools trended down in quality a bit, but the low end tools SKYROCKETED in quality and personally, I love it!
Hi I just bought this multimeter. I haven't done electronics in 20+ years and yes I am on a budget. I bought it to test my welder and this is new to me all over again. I hope I don't blow it up 😁
I have the XL830L meter. For hobby work it does great. My only complaint is that being partially deaf it is very difficult to hear the Continuity buzzer. I lived with this for some time and having experimented and created several electronic projects. After studying some online schematics for this device I decided to add a LED to this device. After disassembly I drilled a 3mm hole in the front of the case, hot glued the LED from the back side to the case, ran two small wires 4 inches and attached to the buzzer. Work great! I have other meters that are more expensive but for the money you can't beat the XL830L meter.
@@radius.indrawan yes, the buzzer has a load resister in it's circuit. There are several versions of this meter. Mine had a black buzzer about a half inch in diameter attached to the pc board by two leads about inch long. Put your LED across the buzzer and try it. Then mount it through the case some where. I wish I had taken photos. If you take the meter completely as I did, take care and not lose the two small bbs' between the front control and meter. Just take your time and remember how to put it back together again. If you mount the LED at bottom right, you don't need to disassemble the meter. Good luck. If I can help, send me a message.
That's what I started with, I still have it and it still works. The leads were absolute crap and have long since been replaced. I have now upgraded to a Fluke 107 which is not accurate down in the mV range, so I will keep my cheapie around. (I now need mains and do not trust $10 meters with 240v, just in case)
On the L-Cheapo meter, you had the Connector leads plugged into the wrong sockets. The instruction says plug-in Red on the right and Black on the left.
I needed one for my car and I found this on ebay, $10. I don't think I can go wrong with finding 12 here and there. Or just looking for grounds. I'm also on SS and only have enough money for bills each month, so this is what I had picked out of the china bag this year. Then I found your video. I got lucky. I have a workbench Voltage/ Ohm meter Hewlett Packard monster but of course im not toting that outside to the fuel pump on my fuel tank sending unit that I'm working on at the moment. The LCD kept falling out of place in my last Chinese meter, and I'd go in and glue it into place, but again, kept on falling out. I finally threw it in the trash but it lasted 3 years. Nice. Hopefully this one can take my abuse. Lol I doubt it.. but we'll see.
I ordered that same meter from Aliexpress for 2.67 $ on their app, non app is 5.50 or so , A friend of mine needed a quick and cheap meter , I'll stick to my Fluke for digital and Triplett 630 for my needle swing analog stuff....... My Neoteck is right there with the Fluke on readings , no Max button on the Neoteck though ......
good video, I think cheap meters are made for people like me, begginers, not working on sensitive electronics, so I don't need that accurate readings, maybe in the future I'll get a fluk or something super good like it. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the great lessons as a beginner who bought this XL 830L and could not follow the instruction manual that was poorly written and shows an inaccurate diagram that does not match the readings on the unit. You knew from experience how to set the meter and thanks for showing that. I followed your set ups and they worked fine. I printed screen shots for future reference just for DC and AC tests which is all I wanted to be able to measure. If you care please check the manual and tell me if I'm wrong
It's nice that these have an adjustment screw and can be manually calibrated for DCV against a good meter. From your demo, you might want to plug into high voltage using one hand instead of two, especially using cheap leads, to avoid electrocution with your heart part of the conductive path. Sometimes the molding is sloppy and there are stray conductors just under the grip surface of the lead body. No kidding, this is what I have seen. Also consider to teach the kids watching your videos the safe way to use test leads. Zebra strips are layers of conductive and non-conductive elastomer, spaced much more closely than many PCB leads. As long as the board and the LCD is well aligned, the zebra stripe only needs to be roughly aligned. Great cheapie DMM for the gararge to test for voltage or continuity. Not to be trusted for high current or low resistance due to the lead resistance close to half an ohm. Most of these meters I have opened up don't have a receptacle for the transistor tester, it's empty behind the lead openings. On these units the transistor feature sucks even more!
I have dozens of cheap multimeters (not this one yet though). Their measurements are all usually similar to my Flukes, the problems they usually have are slow continuity (deal breaker for me), lack of input protection, and lower "number of counts".
Actually, one of my cheap meters has a faster continuity beeper than anything else I have, even the Fluke! But, yeah, for a s accurate as they are, the cheap meters aren't high precision, nor are they high durability. For a beginner hobbyist, they're a good place to start, though.
@@pileofstuff now that you've mentioned this, I remembered that I too have a couple of cheap ones with extremely fast continuity, faster than my flukes. I went on testing them just now, and they are: Aneng AN8206, Borbede BD-168B and DT9205A+ (this last one, I have other three with more or less the same name, they all look different, and only this one has fast continuity). My flukes are 289, 179 and 87V. All in all, I do agree cheap ones are a good place to start.
It rated for 600v AC , it will handle that safely but if you are dumb enough to test a voltage high then 620/650 you will one get an ol on the lcd ie over limit or two you will damage the meter. Even your two flukes have a limit to what they can measure, put them on a 5000v supply transformer and watch what happens , but they will be ok with a 1000v if i they are rated for 1000v . That’s why they have cat numbers printed on the front.
Maybe the leads from the small yellow meter are the reason for better continuity. If the meter had the leads the fluke has then it might be even more accurate.
Interesting, I have the exact multimeter, But mine has a name on it . PROSTER XL830L. But it doesn't show the range in the window like this. Also the rubber outer case has 2 extra bands on the back for better support. So what we have is an OEM product, with slightly different specs depending on who buys them. BTW I got it off UK eBay. including battery £5 ($6.22) posted. Also when you checked the meters in the 6 gang multi plug. wouldn't have got a more accurate reading if you used the same socket ?? ;-)
For the price, both of my cheapies are surprisingly good. Just don't expect to be able to bash them around or use them for high voltage and they'll get the job done.
for the zebra stripes, think a lot of really small wires with insulation the fact that each wire is insulated makes for fairly easy assembly (if you're off by a couple strands, it just doesn't matter, and the contacts on the screen and board are large by comparison) a fairly sloppy way of connecting things...
Thank you for the knowledge gained. My only question so far is why have you put the red lead in the common terminal where as its in the right hand terminal in your 'Fluke' The instructions on the XL830L also state to use the insert the black lead into the central 'common' terminal? Thanks Tony
it's simply different manufacturers putting things in different places. The common function is the important part, not where that manufacturer decided to put it. Just follow the labels and you'll be fine
@@pileofstuff Cheers although the one you have the red tail in is clearly the COM. Which it says to insert the black? Does it work either way round then? And therefore not important or dangerous?
@@tonestones9445 "common" is often the "ground" of the circuit or the negative voltage, and is traditionally assigned to the black wire, though there are always exceptions. But if you do connect the red wire to the common input, all that will happen is the voltage will display as negative voltage on the meter. No harm, just confusing.
Just for kicks, I followed the link to the meter. By the time ebay did the currency conversion from USD, my cost - including shipping to Toronto -was $10.06 CAD. DIRT cheap. I figured I'd better get one for the garage. So a big THANKS! from me!
What? The cheapest ones on aliexpress are 3,6usd free shipping any where in the world, if you don't get it you get a refund.. EBay is bad for these cheap meters half the time nothing arrives and 10cad dollars is too much for this junk
Bought one of those to test stuff like batteries etc. I'm not gonna be sticking it into outlets (have socket testers for that) But I'm a beginner and itll do for me for now. Thanks for the video.
If I am looking for 110 volts and I get 119 close enough or 12 volts and it reads 13 close enough. One test TH-cam meter testers never test is the meter's "loading effect". That is the test that separates the good meters from the junk meters.
I upgraded to a "better" pair of eBay 1000 volt 10 amp silicone universal test leads for $2. To make the test leads work just cut the shrouds back to expose about 1/2 of the banana plugs just like they are on the original cheapo leads. I purchased the meters for $5 each, shipped free on eBay including the yellow rubber holster from seller:. didustore shipping from China took about 3 weeks.
When was the last time your FLUKE meters were calibrated? But if you are an electrician type, you pretty much know what to expect when measuring a voltage/current, if it supposed to be there or not and making sure it is not is important when you are handling wires.
The one I used (and the others I previously compared it against) are very low mileage. When multiple meters agree very closely, it's usually a pretty good indication that you're golden. (I agree it's not the same as a verified calibration, but it's good enough for most practical purposes)
Cheap meters work, but probably after some time their readouts start to drift. Long time ago I had some of these, and I no longer have any of these. You could try clamp meters. There is one a bit more pricey, but very good and even hackable. Normally you get in in 2000 counts, but i's possible to hack it to 10000 counts and much higher current measurement. Even up to 1000 amps. And its all for around 40$. Well, maybe a bit more, as you might need some stuff to reprogram eeprom inside.
Since you mentioned that you were concerned that it would work correctly after trying to re align it when you put it back together you should have tried it and tested it before you opened it up so you could have had a true test of how well it works before you messed with it. Anyways thanks for the video.🙂👍✌
@@pileofstuff If testing performance, that should always be done as built, not after "tampering". Disassembly afterward can reveal substandard components which might indicate potential service, longevity and hazard issues. Retesting after reassembly can indicate fragility and reliability of measurements, but cosmetic appearance of internal components is an unreliable indicator of performance or reliability. btw, Fewer and fewer electronic items are being designed with repair or servicing as considerations. Cheap ones are designed for minimum cost of manufacturing, and tested only after built, but it's not unusual for these inexpensive things to have very low rejection and failure rates within their warranty periods.
Great video and I do agree about using it on "arduino" projects. I use a fluke T5-600 for mains (240v UK) voltages and above, but use a Proster MS8233D for lower voltages and resistance as the fluke is just too unwieldy and the Proster has better (manual) ranging for that smaller stuff (5-24v Dc). I have used the little bugger for mains stuff (and nearly blow it up a couple of times as I didn't change the lead positions (duh!)) with little issue. Personally I find the idea of blowing up my Proster better than the idea of blowing up my fluke. Hehehe
Hi. Im just trying to check some outlets and switches in my home. Tweakers got in my vacation home and rewired all kinds of things. Wires hanging out of walls. My outside light is doing mad sparks even though the switch is off. So what the heck setting do I put this on? I mean i wish somebody would just explain what the dial is meaning. All the videos seem to think we are familiar with these devices in general. Thanks for very clear videos with clear enunciation.
Ultimately, how you set the dial will depend on what scenario you are trying to test. That said, messing around with full line voltage is a *really bad idea* if you don't fully know what you are doing. That stuff can kill you if you're not careful.
For hobby use, this one is adequate. But I have also checked out meters from Uni-t, Mustool and Kaiweets. All are perfectly fine for hobby use. Uni-t seems a bit more durable, but they are all accurate. For professional use, I would stick to the major name brands like Fluke.
Thanks so much for this video,it's very helpful. But I have a similar meter but the problem is it doesn't show the 0.00 on the LCD screen. It only show the indication of the other things like the, 20v,200v and everything but not the 0.00 in other to read anything. Pls what is the problem
I just got this buh its not reading ..tried taking trading Fromm a 9v battery it's just displaying 1 on the screen .. what could be the possible cause .. the lever is adjusted to its appropriate point
HEY BUDDY! I just came across your channel looking into multimeters and IM REALLY HOPING YOU SEE THIS QUESTION. I'm fascinated how educated you are in electronics or multimeters. I'm looking for a quality multimeter for working on my car lighting,around the house,and working on small things like my e-bike or making small led lights... can you suggest 2 or 3 QUALITY multimeters that will last me growing into this and HOPEFULLY stay under 200 dollars. Everyone else tells me I need a fluke 87v for 400 or 500..... hope you or one of your subscribers experienced with multimeters can help me. THANK YOU AND GLAD I FOUND YOUR CHANNEL!!!
Pretty insightful video. I have the exact same multimeter but when i try to measure a 1.5V battery or any other things like you did. It didnt change value. It just stay and 0.0 or sometimes 0.1 Is the meter broken or am i doing something wrong?
It might be a fault in the meter, or you might have a bad cable (or even the cables might not be connected securely). Also, double-check that you are set to the appropriate voltage range. If the meter is set to expect 200 volts, then 1.5 will be too low for it to notice much.
I have the same multimeter, but it couldn't measure the resistance of my skin (I switched to all dials/levels, but still no reading). Skin or body is supposed to have some kind of resistance, right? Although the resistance setting works on other conducive materials (so does the continuity). I just don't know why it can't detect my body/skin. Would you check yours using that cheap multimeter?
@@pileofstuff i just wonder, bcoz I remember when I was young I used to play with my dad's analog multimeter and it would always have a reading on my skin, or when I touch each lead with my fingers. I even put them in my forehead and it would get a reading.
Hi If you made up some 4mm plug to 4mm plug leads you could test meters at the same time ( except for resistance ) --- this would test the meters and not the supplied leads . Alan
Before I watch the video I find this meter quite handy, ill edit my new thoughts at the end. Edit: I still love my meter, sorry to the people who like better meters but its cool.
I work as a tech in telecom for a company that shall not be named. There's few more clues about my history peppered through this video: th-cam.com/video/SP7rDg4A7sc/w-d-xo.html Back when I was in high school I pumped gas, did oil changes, patched tires and did the occasional carb kit at a small town Ford dealership.
we've still heldon to an 'analog phone line' (all digital further on the track ofcourse) cause it has benefits during a power disruption (it gets its power from the line) but costs for it got way up. I also have a small Sipura voip box that connects to the Internet for my second phone line
@@pileofstuff LOL Cheers :) my brand spanking new DMM should arrive tomorrow. Was hoping to check a 1.5 uf 400V AV capacitor on a fan :). Can I use the voltmeter section to test?
Hello. Its very good video. If you have time i need to ask a question. I have same multimeter but current side have a problem about 200. It gives same result with 20 option so i cant measure between 20 ma and 200 ma. Only can measure with 10A option if i have somethng over 20 ma. When i trying to measure it with 200 optiıoın and if value is over 20ma it shows me "-1" like its oversclaed for option. Do you have any idea why a multimeter is acting like that and do you have any solution? Thank you.
How are you connecting the probes? The lower current ranges are measured with the meter probes in the "normal" position. Only the 10A range needs the + probe moved to the 10A socket.
@@pileofstuff no no probpem is not probe. 200 ma section read the value x10 multi becase of that if you read somethng over 19 ma it shows over ranged. I read 19 ma value with 20 section but read same item with 200 section as 190. Because of that i cant read something over 20 ma. It shows duplicated with 10 and over ranged. Its very absurd foult actually.
Hello sir. I'm not an electrician. And I've a question please. I wants to buy a cheap multimeter to check my car's oil and radiator anti freeze. (The test is to check for metal in the oil or anti freeze. Above 0.3 volts means it's gone bad and there's a electrons in it) I'll check up to 20. And maybe my car battery up to 20. I can trust this item to do a good work? Thank you.
This meter is accurate enough, but you need to take care to keep it dry and clean the test leads. btw, those tests indicte engine wear not fluid quality degrdtion.
Certainly not for anything that derives timing from the line frequency. Clocks and cheap tape recorders would have a problem. shavers, lights and simple devices shouldn't have an issue, though
@@maicod Yup. Or even a hot glue gun. The converter is rated for 500 watts, so anything up to that ought to work. I use it mostly for the 3D pen that I bought on ebay from an eastern European seller.
It's hard to expect it to light led's with thin probe wires like those. If it got gold plated probes with good thick wires like the fluke it would kick ass.
If you are clumsy or careless but understand what you are doing, this meter is a better choice than one that costs 10x as much. This meter is not "cheap"; it's inexpensive, which is not the same thing, and it is a good value for what it can do. At the current street price of $10-12, it is a great value. The test lead for a Fluke cost 3x as much as this meter with leads, so it's not fair to compare them.
I would recommend it as a good addition to a diyer's car or home toolbox because it is inexpensive enough to easily replace if it gets broken by careless handling. I would NOT recommend a Fluke for those applications, just like I would recommend Mac tools
I could confidently use it for service work, but what do I now? I'm not a technician, I'm just an engineer with +40 years hands-on field experience.
thanks pal, very imformative....for a 71 year old retired learner....
The resistance comparisons were failed. At 12:07 the Cheapy is NOT _"half an ohm out"_ at the 8 ohm test - you previously measured the meter leads, but then didn't subtract them! So actually:
Cheapy measured 8.8 to 8.9 minus 0.6 to 0.7 leads = average 8.2 ohms
Fluke measured 8.38 minus 0.13 leads = 8.25 ohms. DOH
At 12:49 you set the Cheapy on it's highest range 2 meg, so of course it cannot see NINE meg and of course "it can only just see" 2 meg. DOH
At 100K and 1.5 meg both meters were virtually identical. So it was pretty unfair to say at 14:03 that _"as long as you're staying in the lower ranges, it seems to be fairly accurate"_ .
Why would he had to subtract something to do with meter leads? Thank you, I am still a beginner.
@@kingdavid4463 -- the meter leads are fairly thin wire, and all wire has resistance. This is only significant for low ohms measurements, so when on the lowest resistance range of the meter, you first must short the 2 leads together and take note of the reading. Then when you take the proper measurement you are getting the total resistance of leads PLUS device under test, so you subtract the resistance of the leads to obtain the true measurement.
@@johncoops6897 Ty, great explanation, I understand now.
I realize it is kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to watch newly released series online?
@Jett Landon Flixportal :D
As an Electrician in the UK for the last 35 years, I have used multimeters on our 230-240vac supply without incident, I use a Uni-T meter on a daily basis on 3 phase 415vac at work, (never been in a position to own a FLUKE) but would I use a cheap meter, NO. I do use a cheap meter for model railways though and sometimes that means on mains 230vac, but I have changed out the leads for better quality ones. I believe that as long as you know what you are doing on mains voltages and treat it with respect then you can be safe more or less with what ever you use, in fact when I started work as an electrician, the guy I was apprentice to used a bulb in a lamp holder with two bits of wire sticking out and we tested upto 415vac like that, Health and safety or what. Great video keep it up and when is the next railway, sorry railroad instalment coming? Craig
400 plus AC scares me my self imposed limit is 220 volts even with my Fluke meters.
I’m also an electrician in the uk , the first cheep meter he showed I had one of those thourty years ago on AC voltage it was rated for 750v and 1000v DC but my was yellow and had the rubber protector, i used it all my working life until I left it on a site I moved on to uni-T three years ago I have two uni-T machines one is auto ranging there is nothing wrong with those cheap machines as long as you know how to use them correctly and know there limitation’s people that moan about them moan because they don’t trust there own competence and therefore should not be messing around with electronics or electrical systems. That why we spend four years at college training to be electricians and then two years onsite to build our competence and gain experience.
And another scare mongering video on multimeters I’m also an electrician in the uk , the first cheep meter he showed I had one of those thourty years ago ,on AC voltage it was rated for 750v AC and 1000v DC but mine was yellow and had the rubber protector, i used it all my working life including on 415 v three phase until I left it on a site and I have never never had anything go wrong. I moved on to uni-T three years ago I have two uni-T machines one is auto ranging there is nothing wrong with those cheap machines as long as you know how to use them correctly and know there limitation’s people that moan about them moan because they don’t trust there own competence and therefore should not be messing around with electronics or electrical systems. That why we spend four years at college training to be electricians and then two years onsite to build our competence and gain experience.
The grayish solder blobs looks just like lead-free solder not necessarily bad joints.
To be as accurate as possible when testing the current ranges, wire the meters in series and view the result simultaneously.
This meter is good enough for any circuits below 50 Volts.
BTW; I like your videos, keep up the good work.
We have bought one of these exactly same as the one that you are reviewing. We bought it to test 240V but saw you only went up to 220V but useful tip you gave to turn the meter to 600V or it would most likely break it. We just bought it to test some electric cables to see if they are live or not. Thank you for the demo. Much appreciated.
250V+ probably wouldn't break the meter, but these cheap meters don't have the safety features that a better meter would normally have.
These cheap meters are fine for low voltage hobby use, but I wouldn't recommend them for regular use on mains voltage.
@@pileofstuff Thank you! For the reply and advice. We will gladly follow it. We only bought it to do small jobs occasionally. Only used it once thus far, not sure when we bought it maybe a year or two ago. Just got some attic wires to check see if they are live. They have been left cut off with a knife by previous owner. We will disconnect them if they are not meant to be connected anywhere else, such as, to an extractor fan or light switch.
I own a few Fluke meters but the XL830L meter I use outdoors on my pontoon boat to check the 12 volt battery status and have used it to troubleshoot a faulty boat horn button. So far it has not fallen in the lake but if it did I would buy another. The best thing about this is the grippy soft rubber case and low price... perfect for basic work around boats, cars, tractors, motorcycles where the risk of dropping the meter is high. I would not think of bringing this near my 220 volt AC main breaker box or using it on a fussy electronics project.... that is what Fluke meters are for. You can find these on ebay for about 6 bucks for that kind of money it would be worth throwing one in the car truck or SUV since any meter is better than no meter and this feels more rugged than some of the cheap hard case meters.
Agreed
Mine came without working lcd. Fuck my life.
The backlight actually is timed. It goes off after about 20 seconds. My dad was a career electrician who used a meter with an analogue dial.
One very positive thing that came from everything being made in China is centralization. Once the Chinese have made the designs for things a few times, it became VERY cheap to have things made. This lead to improvements to the components themselves (because you're selling the SAME ones to everyone) and things like single chip solutions for DMMs or FPGAs for oscilloscopes etc became VERY cheap from the economies of scale.
In order to make something that is truly junk - and I mean useless junk - you would have to redesign it completely...so it isn't worth it.
This makes it so that the medium end-tools trended down in quality a bit, but the low end tools SKYROCKETED in quality and personally, I love it!
Hi I just bought this multimeter. I haven't done electronics in 20+ years and yes I am on a budget. I bought it to test my welder and this is new to me all over again. I hope I don't blow it up 😁
Even if you do kill it, it's not much of a financial loss.
And if it does blow up I hope you catch it on video!
I have the XL830L meter. For hobby work it does great. My only complaint is that being partially deaf it is very difficult to hear the Continuity buzzer. I lived with this for some time and having experimented and created several electronic projects. After studying some online schematics for this device I decided to add a LED to this device. After disassembly I drilled a 3mm hole in the front of the case, hot glued the LED from the back side to the case, ran two small wires 4 inches and attached to the buzzer. Work great! I have other meters that are more expensive but for the money you can't beat the XL830L meter.
hi, i'm planning to do the same with my meter. so basically you just paralleled the led with the buzzer, right?
@@radius.indrawan yes, the buzzer has a load resister in it's circuit. There are several versions of this meter. Mine had a black buzzer about a half inch in diameter attached to the pc board by two leads about inch long. Put your LED across the buzzer and try it. Then mount it through the case some where. I wish I had taken photos. If you take the meter completely as I did, take care and not lose the two small bbs' between the front control and meter. Just take your time and remember how to put it back together again. If you mount the LED at bottom right, you don't need to disassemble the meter. Good luck. If I can help, send me a message.
@@johnmorton4285 thank you very much John, it is a very clear instructions. i will try it soon as i have my spare time. have a great day. 😃
That's what I started with, I still have it and it still works. The leads were absolute crap and have long since been replaced.
I have now upgraded to a Fluke 107 which is not accurate down in the mV range, so I will keep my cheapie around.
(I now need mains and do not trust $10 meters with 240v, just in case)
I just got one of these on Amazon and watched your video thanks using mine for a parasitic draw on my van
On the L-Cheapo meter, you had the Connector leads plugged into the wrong sockets. The instruction says plug-in Red on the right and Black on the left.
I needed one for my car and I found this on ebay, $10. I don't think I can go wrong with finding 12 here and there. Or just looking for grounds. I'm also on SS and only have enough money for bills each month, so this is what I had picked out of the china bag this year. Then I found your video. I got lucky.
I have a workbench Voltage/ Ohm meter Hewlett Packard monster but of course im not toting that outside to the fuel pump on my fuel tank sending unit that I'm working on at the moment.
The LCD kept falling out of place in my last Chinese meter, and I'd go in and glue it into place, but again, kept on falling out. I finally threw it in the trash but it lasted 3 years. Nice. Hopefully this one can take my abuse. Lol I doubt it.. but we'll see.
I ordered that same meter from Aliexpress for 2.67 $ on their app, non app is 5.50 or so , A friend of mine needed a quick and cheap meter , I'll stick to my Fluke for digital and Triplett 630 for my needle swing analog stuff....... My Neoteck is right there with the Fluke on readings , no Max button on the Neoteck though ......
good video, I think cheap meters are made for people like me, begginers, not working on sensitive electronics, so I don't need that accurate readings, maybe in the future I'll get a fluk or something super good like it. Thanks for the video.
Just bought one of these from AliExpress on a special offer for $2 shipped... It's fine. I wouldn't say its good but it does the job well enough.
That's it, just an acceptable meter for basic use - and one that you won't be upset about if you blow it up.
Thanks. For the class 👍 They're like 3 euros on Ali express.. Just buyin to test some ebike wires (beginner)
Yeah because an ebike battery can kill with butt loads of current? Buy some 20-30€ meter with a fuse please
great review!!! just bought one
Thanks for the great lessons as a beginner who bought this XL 830L and could not follow the instruction manual that was poorly written and shows an inaccurate diagram that does not match the readings on the unit. You knew from experience how to set the meter and thanks for showing that. I followed your set ups and they worked fine. I printed screen shots for future reference just for DC and AC tests which is all I wanted to be able to measure. If you care please check the manual and tell me if I'm wrong
Thank you great lessons for me as a beginner. Well explained . I have just bought this cheap multimeter from China.
It's nice that these have an adjustment screw and can be manually calibrated for DCV against a good meter. From your demo, you might want to plug into high voltage using one hand instead of two, especially using cheap leads, to avoid electrocution with your heart part of the conductive path. Sometimes the molding is sloppy and there are stray conductors just under the grip surface of the lead body. No kidding, this is what I have seen. Also consider to teach the kids watching your videos the safe way to use test leads. Zebra strips are layers of conductive and non-conductive elastomer, spaced much more closely than many PCB leads. As long as the board and the LCD is well aligned, the zebra stripe only needs to be roughly aligned. Great cheapie DMM for the gararge to test for voltage or continuity. Not to be trusted for high current or low resistance due to the lead resistance close to half an ohm. Most of these meters I have opened up don't have a receptacle for the transistor tester, it's empty behind the lead openings. On these units the transistor feature sucks even more!
I have dozens of cheap multimeters (not this one yet though). Their measurements are all usually similar to my Flukes, the problems they usually have are slow continuity (deal breaker for me), lack of input protection, and lower "number of counts".
Actually, one of my cheap meters has a faster continuity beeper than anything else I have, even the Fluke!
But, yeah, for a s accurate as they are, the cheap meters aren't high precision, nor are they high durability.
For a beginner hobbyist, they're a good place to start, though.
@@pileofstuff now that you've mentioned this, I remembered that I too have a couple of cheap ones with extremely fast continuity, faster than my flukes. I went on testing them just now, and they are: Aneng AN8206, Borbede BD-168B and DT9205A+ (this last one, I have other three with more or less the same name, they all look different, and only this one has fast continuity).
My flukes are 289, 179 and 87V.
All in all, I do agree cheap ones are a good place to start.
Happy with my first ever multimeter.
Pretty dam impressive I must say
It rated for 600v AC , it will handle that safely but if you are dumb enough to test a voltage high then 620/650 you will one get an ol on the lcd ie over limit or two you will damage the meter. Even your two flukes have a limit to what they can measure, put them on a 5000v supply transformer and watch what happens , but they will be ok with a 1000v if i they are rated for 1000v . That’s why they have cat numbers printed on the front.
Maybe the leads from the small yellow meter are the reason for better continuity. If the meter had the leads the fluke has then it might be even more accurate.
Diode mode reading will depend upon the test voltage from the meter itself.
True.
Though with a 9 volt battery powering the thing, I was hoping to be able to be able to read at least a 3 volt forward bias voltage.
Good review. I have the exact model XL830L for DIY works
still available on Amazon and sold as the ULTRICS METER!
These same cheap meters are available all over the place, re-named under dozens of brand names.
Pick the one that is the best deal at the moment.
I'd use it. Especially for dc circuits. Not very crazy about the leads. It would be alright for playing with diy projects.
Waiting for input to brake messing around plugging them in,mine did.but I still like it
Interesting, I have the exact multimeter, But mine has a name on it . PROSTER XL830L. But it doesn't show the range in the window like this. Also the rubber outer case has 2 extra bands on the back for better support. So what we have is an OEM product, with slightly different specs depending on who buys them. BTW I got it off UK eBay. including battery £5 ($6.22) posted. Also when you checked the meters in the 6 gang multi plug. wouldn't have got a more accurate reading if you used the same socket ?? ;-)
that meter seems great for what i want it for i got
For the price, both of my cheapies are surprisingly good.
Just don't expect to be able to bash them around or use them for high voltage and they'll get the job done.
for the zebra stripes, think a lot of really small wires with insulation
the fact that each wire is insulated makes for fairly easy assembly (if you're off by a couple strands, it just doesn't matter, and the contacts on the screen and board are large by comparison)
a fairly sloppy way of connecting things...
A sloppy way of connection that's used within almost EVERY multimeter and other device that uses a complex LCD screen.
That's a reminder that I probably shouldn't trust the numbers on my old, cheap multimeter as much as I do.
It never hurts to verify your accuracy against something more trustworthy now and then.
Thank you for the knowledge gained. My only question so far is why have you put the red lead in the common terminal where as its in the right hand terminal in your 'Fluke'
The instructions on the XL830L also state to use the insert the black lead into the central 'common' terminal? Thanks Tony
it's simply different manufacturers putting things in different places.
The common function is the important part, not where that manufacturer decided to put it.
Just follow the labels and you'll be fine
@@pileofstuff Cheers although the one you have the red tail in is clearly the COM. Which it says to insert the black? Does it work either way round then? And therefore not important or dangerous?
@@tonestones9445 "common" is often the "ground" of the circuit or the negative voltage, and is traditionally assigned to the black wire, though there are always exceptions.
But if you do connect the red wire to the common input, all that will happen is the voltage will display as negative voltage on the meter. No harm, just confusing.
Just for kicks, I followed the link to the meter. By the time ebay did the currency conversion from USD, my cost - including shipping to Toronto -was $10.06 CAD. DIRT cheap. I figured I'd better get one for the garage. So a big THANKS! from me!
What? The cheapest ones on aliexpress are 3,6usd free shipping any where in the world, if you don't get it you get a refund.. EBay is bad for these cheap meters half the time nothing arrives and 10cad dollars is too much for this junk
Bought one of those to test stuff like batteries etc. I'm not gonna be sticking it into outlets (have socket testers for that)
But I'm a beginner and itll do for me for now.
Thanks for the video.
If I am looking for 110 volts and I get 119 close enough or 12 volts and it reads 13 close enough. One test TH-cam meter testers never test is the meter's "loading effect". That is the test that separates the good meters from the junk meters.
Good point.Though if I were working with sensitive enough circuits for that to be a concern, this is probably not the meter for the job.
I'm pretty sure that is a bulb not a fuse.
Might be, but for what purpose?
I don't think there's anything in the area that is intended to be illuminated.
Inrush limiting maybe?
@@pileofstuff maybe for Back light?
I upgraded to a "better" pair of eBay 1000 volt 10 amp silicone universal test leads for $2. To make the test leads work just cut the shrouds back to expose about 1/2 of the banana plugs just like they are on the original cheapo leads. I purchased the meters for $5 each, shipped free on eBay including the yellow rubber holster from seller:. didustore shipping from China took about 3 weeks.
When was the last time your FLUKE meters were calibrated? But if you are an electrician type, you pretty much know what to expect when measuring a voltage/current, if it supposed to be there or not and making sure it is not is important when you are handling wires.
The one I used (and the others I previously compared it against) are very low mileage.
When multiple meters agree very closely, it's usually a pretty good indication that you're golden. (I agree it's not the same as a verified calibration, but it's good enough for most practical purposes)
Cheap meters work, but probably after some time their readouts start to drift. Long time ago I had some of these, and I no longer have any of these.
You could try clamp meters. There is one a bit more pricey, but very good and even hackable. Normally you get in in 2000 counts, but i's possible to hack it to 10000 counts and much higher current measurement. Even up to 1000 amps. And its all for around 40$. Well, maybe a bit more, as you might need some stuff to reprogram eeprom inside.
Just got mine The battery cover slides on and off. No screw to remove
He said plug into there? There where? Name where you are plugging into on the multimeter! Beginners are in the house
Since you mentioned that you were concerned that it would work correctly after trying to re align it when you put it back together you should have tried it and tested it before you opened it up so you could have had a true test of how well it works before you messed with it. Anyways thanks for the video.🙂👍✌
Only slightly concerned. It was super cheap, after all.
@@pileofstuff If testing performance, that should always be done as built, not after "tampering".
Disassembly afterward can reveal substandard components which might indicate potential service, longevity and hazard issues. Retesting after reassembly can indicate fragility and reliability of measurements, but cosmetic appearance of internal components is an unreliable indicator of performance or reliability.
btw, Fewer and fewer electronic items are being designed with repair or servicing as considerations. Cheap ones are designed for minimum cost of manufacturing, and tested only after built, but it's not unusual for these inexpensive things to have very low rejection and failure rates within their warranty periods.
Great video and I do agree about using it on "arduino" projects. I use a fluke T5-600 for mains (240v UK) voltages and above, but use a Proster MS8233D for lower voltages and resistance as the fluke is just too unwieldy and the Proster has better (manual) ranging for that smaller stuff (5-24v Dc). I have used the little bugger for mains stuff (and nearly blow it up a couple of times as I didn't change the lead positions (duh!)) with little issue. Personally I find the idea of blowing up my Proster better than the idea of blowing up my fluke. Hehehe
Hi. Im just trying to check some outlets and switches in my home. Tweakers got in my vacation home and rewired all kinds of things. Wires hanging out of walls. My outside light is doing mad sparks even though the switch is off. So what the heck setting do I put this on? I mean i wish somebody would just explain what the dial is meaning. All the videos seem to think we are familiar with these devices in general.
Thanks for very clear videos with clear enunciation.
Ultimately, how you set the dial will depend on what scenario you are trying to test.
That said, messing around with full line voltage is a *really bad idea* if you don't fully know what you are doing. That stuff can kill you if you're not careful.
i just purchased one lol holding my breath.
Hi. Looking at the video. Just guessing what is the best suitable multimeter I can used or purchased. One which is durable and affordable.. Any idea.
For hobby use, this one is adequate. But I have also checked out meters from Uni-t, Mustool and Kaiweets. All are perfectly fine for hobby use.
Uni-t seems a bit more durable, but they are all accurate.
For professional use, I would stick to the major name brands like Fluke.
At the end there was something about electricians and blowing stuff up and gambling and I presume drinking and wimens? Sign me up! 💥🤗💥
Got similar one and arrived with the screen not working. Only led backlight works...
Thanks so much for this video,it's very helpful. But I have a similar meter but the problem is it doesn't show the 0.00 on the LCD screen. It only show the indication of the other things like the, 20v,200v and everything but not the 0.00 in other to read anything. Pls what is the problem
Put the cheap meter leads on a megger and find out how good they are.
I'll have to see if any sponsors want to send me a megger to play with!
0:30 what is the model number of the black multimeter ?
It's the one I featured in this video:th-cam.com/video/3j8JqTh8RoQ/w-d-xo.html
The model is DT832. There are links in that video's description
I just got this buh its not reading ..tried taking trading Fromm a 9v battery it's just displaying 1 on the screen .. what could be the possible cause .. the lever is adjusted to its appropriate point
HEY BUDDY! I just came across your channel looking into multimeters and IM REALLY HOPING YOU SEE THIS QUESTION. I'm fascinated how educated you are in electronics or multimeters. I'm looking for a quality multimeter for working on my car lighting,around the house,and working on small things like my e-bike or making small led lights... can you suggest 2 or 3 QUALITY multimeters that will last me growing into this and HOPEFULLY stay under 200 dollars. Everyone else tells me I need a fluke 87v for 400 or 500..... hope you or one of your subscribers experienced with multimeters can help me. THANK YOU AND GLAD I FOUND YOUR CHANNEL!!!
Pretty insightful video. I have the exact same multimeter but when i try to measure a 1.5V battery or any other things like you did. It didnt change value. It just stay and 0.0 or sometimes 0.1 Is the meter broken or am i doing something wrong?
It might be a fault in the meter, or you might have a bad cable (or even the cables might not be connected securely).
Also, double-check that you are set to the appropriate voltage range. If the meter is set to expect 200 volts, then 1.5 will be too low for it to notice much.
sir can i ask why did you put the positive probe in the COM? and can i change that into negative probe to the COM? thank you
He made a almost deadly mistake
I know you saying at 8:47
Some multimeter can do two ways but this I think black must be centre
I have the same multimeter, but it couldn't measure the resistance of my skin (I switched to all dials/levels, but still no reading). Skin or body is supposed to have some kind of resistance, right? Although the resistance setting works on other conducive materials (so does the continuity). I just don't know why it can't detect my body/skin. Would you check yours using that cheap multimeter?
Skin resistance is usually pretty high - on the order of several hundreds of MegOhms.
I can't even measure it with 2 of my Fluke meters.
@@pileofstuff i just wonder, bcoz I remember when I was young I used to play with my dad's analog multimeter and it would always have a reading on my skin, or when I touch each lead with my fingers. I even put them in my forehead and it would get a reading.
Hi If you made up some 4mm plug to 4mm plug leads you could test meters at the same
time ( except for resistance ) --- this would test the meters and not the supplied leads .
Alan
Can this Meter read "AC Amperage Draw"? Thanks.
No. current measurement is DC only on this one.
@@pileofstuff Hi, and thanks. Then, it is USELESS!
@@kfotoprm maybe useless for your application...
Before I watch the video I find this meter quite handy, ill edit my new thoughts at the end.
Edit: I still love my meter, sorry to the people who like better meters but its cool.
the black should be in the middle?
Sure, but doesn't really matte for AC measurements.
Thank you
What do you actually do for a living?? Is that something you don't talk about on the channel how have I not picked it up
I work as a tech in telecom for a company that shall not be named.
There's few more clues about my history peppered through this video: th-cam.com/video/SP7rDg4A7sc/w-d-xo.html
Back when I was in high school I pumped gas, did oil changes, patched tires and did the occasional carb kit at a small town Ford dealership.
I believe 12voltvids has the same job as you
@@maicod Similar type of work, but not exactly. I've seen things in the background of a few of his videos that I also work with.
we've still heldon to an 'analog phone line' (all digital further on the track ofcourse) cause it has benefits during a power disruption (it gets its power from the line) but costs for it got way up. I also have a small Sipura voip box that connects to the Internet for my second phone line
@@pileofstuff I feel like we have much to discuss I might toss you an email one of these days
Can the XL830L DMM test capacitors?
no, it does not have that function.
I use my multi-component tester (AKA transistor tester-cheap on ebay) or my Uni-t 210 for capacitor testing.
@@pileofstuff LOL Cheers :) my brand spanking new DMM should arrive tomorrow. Was hoping to check a 1.5 uf 400V AV capacitor on a fan :). Can I use the voltmeter section to test?
God bless me
I have one just like that
Hello. Its very good video. If you have time i need to ask a question. I have same multimeter but current side have a problem about 200. It gives same result with 20 option so i cant measure between 20 ma and 200 ma. Only can measure with 10A option if i have somethng over 20 ma. When i trying to measure it with 200 optiıoın and if value is over 20ma it shows me "-1" like its oversclaed for option. Do you have any idea why a multimeter is acting like that and do you have any solution? Thank you.
How are you connecting the probes?
The lower current ranges are measured with the meter probes in the "normal" position.
Only the 10A range needs the + probe moved to the 10A socket.
@@pileofstuff no no probpem is not probe. 200 ma section read the value x10 multi becase of that if you read somethng over 19 ma it shows over ranged. I read 19 ma value with 20 section but read same item with 200 section as 190. Because of that i cant read something over 20 ma. It shows duplicated with 10 and over ranged. Its very absurd foult actually.
Would an aneng be better for tube circuits?
Depends on the voltage and current levels you are trying to measure.
Hello sir.
I'm not an electrician. And I've a question please.
I wants to buy a cheap multimeter to check my car's oil and radiator anti freeze. (The test is to check for metal in the oil or anti freeze. Above 0.3 volts means it's gone bad and there's a electrons in it)
I'll check up to 20. And maybe my car battery up to 20. I can trust this item to do a good work?
Thank you.
This meter is accurate enough, but you need to take care to keep it dry and clean the test leads. btw, those tests indicte engine wear not fluid quality degrdtion.
nice converter to 230 V . Is it converting to 50hz too?
Nope. It's just a simple transformer.
ok so you couldn't use it for european appliances
Certainly not for anything that derives timing from the line frequency. Clocks and cheap tape recorders would have a problem.
shavers, lights and simple devices shouldn't have an issue, though
like a solder iron :)
@@maicod Yup. Or even a hot glue gun.
The converter is rated for 500 watts, so anything up to that ought to work.
I use it mostly for the 3D pen that I bought on ebay from an eastern European seller.
Got both cheapies duh! But got the trans.tester....forgiven??
Verry good
Lead free solder is DULL
It's hard to expect it to light led's with thin probe wires like those. If it got gold plated probes with good thick wires like the fluke it would kick ass.
Very negative from the outset....
most of the cheapies are just slow, slow, slow
I was pleasantly surprised that the continuity on my older cheaper meter was as fast as it is.
@@pileofstuff they usually sample three or four times before they lock in on a voltage or resistance. Aint nobody got time fo dat!
It is says it unfused and it is really fused. Lol Typical Chinese!!
What fucking you on about? This unit dose the job what they supposed to. Doesn't matter cable is thine or thick. You get what you pay...
Man you talk too much
Thanks for watching!