I was searching specifically for the use of liming wax and your video fits the bill exactly, thank you. I love the blue colour, do you m8nd if i ask what make it is?
Chad that turned out absolutely stunning! I love it!! Excellent job. I’ve done a few liming wax treatments on Ash and have found that rubbing a small amount of lemon oil on a rag gets rid of the excess and haze and cleans it up nice.
@@josephwise485 I use ‘Old English lemon oil’. It’s an inexpensive furniture polish. I believe I got it from Homedepot or walmart, but you my be able to get it in the grocery store in the furniture polish area.
I will test this, but i'm think to do it whitout sandplast. I dont have those tools my cabin. I hope i get same efect if i color it after first 80 grit sanding, and then finish sanding just 400 grit
You should be able to get similar results without sandblasting. A wire brush might help to clean out the pores of the wood, similar to sandblasting. Thanks for watching! Good luck!
Sure, you could reverse the colors. Bleach the wood if necessary then use white paint/lacquer to seal it. Fill the pores with blue and seal with clear lacquer. Seems like it should work okay.
Wow That's Absolutely Beautiful Chad I really enjoy watching you create this beauty never heard of that wax is there a specific use for liming wax? Or is this what it is used for? Well Done Great Job Chad
Thanks so much, Rich! Yes, I believe liming wax is primarily used for grain filling. Seems like it could also be used for a whitewashed finish. Acrylic paint can also work well as a grain filler. I really appreciate you watching and sharing all of your comments!
It would have probably looked more like a whitewash, kinda smeared into all the wood and the wax would have taken on a blue shade as well. I haven’t tried it intentionally yet, but a previous piece didn’t have enough lacquer so it was a similar problem. Thanks for watching!
I really enjoy your videos Chad! What brand and where do you get your liming wax? You mention also using acrylic paint to fill the grain. Is one better than the other? Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hey John! I've had decent luck with both the liming wax and acrylic paint. The paint is a little trickier and maybe a bit more messy, but the process is basically the same. As an alternative to acrylic, you could possibly dye the liming wax with a concentrated dye. The biggest part, regardless of the filler, is sealing in the dye with lacquer before trying to fill the grain. Thanks for watching!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks Thanks for your response. Glass may be a little too aggressive for wood since it can blow through things quickly. Try some Arm & Hammer baking soda or ground pecan shells. The glass also poses some safety / health issues even when in a blast cabinet. Silicosis is something you want to avoid at all costs from using sand or glass media. The negative health impacts can be realized years later. An outside air source is a must when using these materials. Turn safely, friend!
Thanks for your comment and concern! I may try soda or shells one day for something, but I already find glass to not be aggressive enough - especially glass beads. Crushed glass is better, but I'm looking for a coarser mix. From what I've read, the reason for using glass is to have an aggressive media that is far safer than silica sand (glass has very little free silica). I realize the shells and many other options have no silica, but I've also heard they don't work nearly as well on wood. If you have experience with something that works effectively on wood, I'd love to know what it is. I always operate under the assumption that it's bad to inhale fine particulates of any kind. Even footsteps across a dusty floor put particulates into the air and sweeping a floor is terrible for air quality - a HEPA vac is a much better idea. I use dust collection at the source (lathe, bandsaw, blasting cabinet, etc.) and an air cleaner and, if I'm turning/sanding, a powered respirator at the lathe. I try to take care of my lungs and my eyes as best I can. Thanks for watching and for watching out for me too!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks As a general rule, most glass blasting media is nothing but silica or a combination of silica and lime. Silica is heated to about 2500-2700 degree F to turn into glass. There are other components of glass as we know it, but the main part is silica. I use to carve glass with sand blasting material such as aluminum oxide, but I think that may be much to aggressive for wood. Experiment with other materials to see what works best for you. See if this site helps. www.finishingsystems.com/blog/sandblasting-material-guide/
I'm confused about what you're trying to tell me. I researched abrasives before I ever began blasting wood and I just read the link you sent. I also just looked at several other resources regarding glass, abrasives, and silicosis. Crushed glass appears to be one of the safest blasting abrasives and has not been linked to silicosis. It seems I'm doing everything right in terms of controlling the dust in the first place (HEPA filtration, 1 micron filters, etc.), so I don't see a big safety concern. This seems to confirm what I learned the first time I researched it. Regarding the crushed glass as the best choice, per the link you sent, it appears to be exactly what I want - sharp, angular, and hard. The link talks mostly about using abrasive to remove something from metal and also seems to make the assumption that you don't want to damage the metal. That's basically the opposite of what I'm doing - I want to damage the surface and remove the softer material. I'm not trying to preserve the surface as with metal. I have also heard from other turners that crushed glass seems to work best. I appreciate your input and the article... it made me do a little refresher that may have also given me some ideas... So, thanks for the conversation!
In your notes you said there was one small thing you would change if you could go back....what is that one small thing? I really liked the grain before you stained it and after you stained it. Lol. Nice work!
On that piece I think the thing I’d have done is sandblast the two end grain edges better, so the white would have shown better there. It didn’t fill the end grain as well as it did on the rest of the piece. Thanks for watching!
Hey man, I have to say, that was a truly awesome transformation! When you first said you were going to dye that catalpa I was like, “NOoOoo!!!” Lol! Proved me wrong though! It was awesome! Seth
Thanks, Seth! I've found catalpa takes dye surprising well... reds, blues, and greens have been no problem. Not sure what it will do with yellow... might have to try that.
I usually dye the piece the darker color and fill the grain with the lighter color, but I’ve been wanting to do yellow dyed wood with black grain fill. You just have to be sure to seal the dye in really well with lacquer.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorksHey, I’m a new viewer from the UK. I am about to dye a solid oak bed frame with a (Coloron) water based walnut dye. I am hoping to achieve a high gloss finish. Once I am happy with the finish I would appreciate your advice on what to apply next. I would like to see as much of the natural grain as possible. I am also looking for the aforementioned high gloss finish. Lacquer? Wax? Varnish? Great channel and content. Regards.
![Woodturning - Osage Orange Natural Edge Bowl [with Scorched Rim]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8qkUBsE74H8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Woodturning - Osage Orange Natural Edge Bowl [with Scorched Rim]](/img/tr.png)
![Woodturning - Lobed Bowl From Yew Branches [1st Time Turning Yew]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9KUX6Gryo0o/mqdefault.jpg)
Watched this for the 2nd time, saved to favorites, well done Chad!
Very, very beautiful, staying like👍👍👍
Really like this approach. Will give it a go
Beautiful piece. Love the white lining wax over the blue. Saw hold over blue the other day. This seems more appropriate for us KY boys.
Definitely! Blue and white pretty much always looks good.
Awesome 👍🏽
I usually dont care for dyeing woods, but that is just beautiful!!
Thank you!
It is absolutely stunningly beautiful and magnificent bowl
Thanks!
The color and grain are very beautiful, great job,👍👍👍
Thank you!
Great work. Im a newish turner and getting more into applying colour and texture. Your insta page has some beautiful work.
Thanks so much 😊
Wow, I love it, Chad!
Thanks, Rick!
Great bowl thanks for putting your video on.
I was searching specifically for the use of liming wax and your video fits the bill exactly, thank you. I love the blue colour, do you m8nd if i ask what make it is?
Nice work!
Great job Chad. I don’t have a sand blaster, but I’ve used a blowtorch and burning to get a similar effect on a pine bowl I turned.
Many of the woods that are good for grain filling are also good for scorching the grain, which is a great look too. Thanks for watching!
Great job Chad. Just what I was looking for!
Stunningly beautiful, stay safe
Thanks so much!
Nice piece. Great job on the video.
What a cool technique. Great job.
Thanks so much!
Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your techniques. Now I want a sand blaster!
I know, right... sandblasting is great. Now I need a much bigger compressor. Thanks for watching!
if you don't have access to a sandblaster, is there an alternate way of opening the grain like you showed? great results! beautiful work.
Stunning item, I really like the contrast with the colours
Thank you for sharing, I enjoyed your video
Thank you so much!
i know I am kinda off topic but does anybody know a good website to watch new tv shows online?
@Ares Kingston flixportal xD
@Fletcher Andres thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service =) Appreciate it!
@Ares Kingston no problem :D
wonderful transformation from last week's project good job Chad, enjoyed watching.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great work thanks for your hard work in sharing with us. one question what did use as a final sealer after appling the wax?
I used lacquer as the top coat over the wax. Thanks for watching!
Chad that turned out absolutely stunning! I love it!! Excellent job. I’ve done a few liming wax treatments on Ash and have found that rubbing a small amount of lemon oil on a rag gets rid of the excess and haze and cleans it up nice.
Jeanie, I've only seen lemon juice, where do you find lemon oil, grocery store? Thanks.
@@josephwise485 I use ‘Old English lemon oil’. It’s an inexpensive furniture polish. I believe I got it from Homedepot or walmart, but you my be able to get it in the grocery store in the furniture polish area.
I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!
I will test this, but i'm think to do it whitout sandplast. I dont have those tools my cabin. I hope i get same efect if i color it after first 80 grit sanding, and then finish sanding just 400 grit
You should be able to get similar results without sandblasting. A wire brush might help to clean out the pores of the wood, similar to sandblasting. Thanks for watching! Good luck!
A Delft wooden bowl. Great colors. Is there a way to do the colors the opposite way, blue on white?
Sure, you could reverse the colors. Bleach the wood if necessary then use white paint/lacquer to seal it. Fill the pores with blue and seal with clear lacquer. Seems like it should work okay.
Wow That's Absolutely Beautiful Chad I really enjoy watching you create this beauty never heard of that wax is there a specific use for liming wax? Or is this what it is used for? Well Done Great Job Chad
Thanks so much, Rich! Yes, I believe liming wax is primarily used for grain filling. Seems like it could also be used for a whitewashed finish. Acrylic paint can also work well as a grain filler. I really appreciate you watching and sharing all of your comments!
Very nice Love the grain it really pops...... What kind of dye do you use ? Great work
I use TransTint dye.
Very nice. Love the way the grain is highlighted. Would the limning wax remove the dye if you hadn't applied the lacquer first?
It would have probably looked more like a whitewash, kinda smeared into all the wood and the wax would have taken on a blue shade as well. I haven’t tried it intentionally yet, but a previous piece didn’t have enough lacquer so it was a similar problem. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful, not familiar with liming wax but I’m going find some and try it.
It can definitely add a nice little pop to a piece. Acrylic paint can also be used instead of liming wax.
I really enjoy your videos Chad! What brand and where do you get your liming wax? You mention also using acrylic paint to fill the grain. Is one better than the other? Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hey John! I've had decent luck with both the liming wax and acrylic paint. The paint is a little trickier and maybe a bit more messy, but the process is basically the same. As an alternative to acrylic, you could possibly dye the liming wax with a concentrated dye. The biggest part, regardless of the filler, is sealing in the dye with lacquer before trying to fill the grain. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Chad. Keep up the good work!
Very nice!! 👍👍👍👍. What blasting media did you use to open the grain of the wood? Soda, pecan, aluminum oxide?
Thank you! I used crushed glass blasting media.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks Thanks for your response. Glass may be a little too aggressive for wood since it can blow through things quickly. Try some Arm & Hammer baking soda or ground pecan shells.
The glass also poses some safety / health issues even when in a blast cabinet. Silicosis is something you want to avoid at all costs from using sand or glass media. The negative health impacts can be realized years later. An outside air source is a must when using these materials. Turn safely, friend!
Thanks for your comment and concern! I may try soda or shells one day for something, but I already find glass to not be aggressive enough - especially glass beads. Crushed glass is better, but I'm looking for a coarser mix. From what I've read, the reason for using glass is to have an aggressive media that is far safer than silica sand (glass has very little free silica). I realize the shells and many other options have no silica, but I've also heard they don't work nearly as well on wood. If you have experience with something that works effectively on wood, I'd love to know what it is.
I always operate under the assumption that it's bad to inhale fine particulates of any kind. Even footsteps across a dusty floor put particulates into the air and sweeping a floor is terrible for air quality - a HEPA vac is a much better idea. I use dust collection at the source (lathe, bandsaw, blasting cabinet, etc.) and an air cleaner and, if I'm turning/sanding, a powered respirator at the lathe. I try to take care of my lungs and my eyes as best I can. Thanks for watching and for watching out for me too!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks
As a general rule, most glass blasting media is nothing but silica or a combination of silica and lime. Silica is heated to about 2500-2700 degree F to turn into glass. There are other components of glass as we know it, but the main part is silica.
I use to carve glass with sand blasting material such as aluminum oxide, but I think that may be much to aggressive for wood. Experiment with other materials to see what works best for you.
See if this site helps.
www.finishingsystems.com/blog/sandblasting-material-guide/
I'm confused about what you're trying to tell me. I researched abrasives before I ever began blasting wood and I just read the link you sent. I also just looked at several other resources regarding glass, abrasives, and silicosis. Crushed glass appears to be one of the safest blasting abrasives and has not been linked to silicosis. It seems I'm doing everything right in terms of controlling the dust in the first place (HEPA filtration, 1 micron filters, etc.), so I don't see a big safety concern. This seems to confirm what I learned the first time I researched it.
Regarding the crushed glass as the best choice, per the link you sent, it appears to be exactly what I want - sharp, angular, and hard. The link talks mostly about using abrasive to remove something from metal and also seems to make the assumption that you don't want to damage the metal. That's basically the opposite of what I'm doing - I want to damage the surface and remove the softer material. I'm not trying to preserve the surface as with metal. I have also heard from other turners that crushed glass seems to work best.
I appreciate your input and the article... it made me do a little refresher that may have also given me some ideas... So, thanks for the conversation!
Any more information on how to make liming wax? Or where to buy it?
Chestnut Products, Fiddes, Liberon and others all make it. Shouldn't be hard to find.
In your notes you said there was one small thing you would change if you could go back....what is that one small thing? I really liked the grain before you stained it and after you stained it. Lol. Nice work!
On that piece I think the thing I’d have done is sandblast the two end grain edges better, so the white would have shown better there. It didn’t fill the end grain as well as it did on the rest of the piece. Thanks for watching!
What dye did you use?
It was TransTint dye in alcohol.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks Thanks! Great vids!
Hey man, I have to say, that was a truly awesome transformation! When you first said you were going to dye that catalpa I was like, “NOoOoo!!!”
Lol!
Proved me wrong though! It was awesome!
Seth
Thanks, Seth! I've found catalpa takes dye surprising well... reds, blues, and greens have been no problem. Not sure what it will do with yellow... might have to try that.
Chad Eames WoodWorks
Oooh! Maybe yellow with a black or gray dye for the grain!?
I think that would look awesome!
I usually dye the piece the darker color and fill the grain with the lighter color, but I’ve been wanting to do yellow dyed wood with black grain fill. You just have to be sure to seal the dye in really well with lacquer.
Chad Eames WoodWorks
Gotcha!
Spent to much time in the sand blaster.Otherwise nice piece. Jim's wood shop.
Your lack of a informative narrative leaves lots of question
What are your questions?
Really, I am happy to answer questions so feel free to ask. It would be helpful to know what kinds of questions people have. Thanks for watching!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorksHey, I’m a new viewer from the UK. I am about to dye a solid oak bed frame with a (Coloron) water based walnut dye. I am hoping to achieve a high gloss finish. Once I am happy with the finish I would appreciate your advice on what to apply next. I would like to see as much of the natural grain as possible. I am also looking for the aforementioned high gloss finish. Lacquer? Wax? Varnish?
Great channel and content.
Regards.