Great video thanks. I've done a few of these including one in the field on a mates bike. Things I would add: 1. A translucent tank makes the job so much easier. You don't need a pull wire as you can see exactly where the pump is and guide it into place by angling the tank etc. A see through tank also helps prevent ever running the pump dry which prolongs it's life. 2 Replacing the hose between the pump and filter with a quality submersible rubber fuel hose makes changing the pump or the filter a far easier job. 3. I have had a pressure drop from a small hole wearing in one of the corrugated hoses from vibrartion. The hose was rubbing against the other corrugated hose next to it. This was at about 500hrs on the bike. I now make sure to cable tie the hoses securely together in the hope that this will prevent it happening again and inspect the hoses carefully each time I have the pump out. Unfortunately the rubber hoses are too thick to swap out all the plastic ones. 4. I test the fuel pressure with a gauge after each assembly to ensure there are no leaks in the system. There is one oring in particular where the pump exits the tank that can cause a pressure drop without causing a leak. It's on the threaded nipple on the bottom of the pump assembly. The pump should produce around 50psi and it should hold the pressure for a few minutes once it switches off. If the pressure drops rapidly you must look for a leak in the system.
A couple of points. I once bought a supposedly Japanese made pump but the spigot where you fit the hose was just smooth sided and the kit came with rubber fuel lines. Big problem! I fitted it, left it overnight in the tank with fuel and the rubber hose slid off the smooth sided spigot. The spigot MUST have ridges on it, as his one has to ensure the hose stays on and you MUST use the hard plastic ridged fuel hose. If you have an Acerbis tank, the pump connection plate at the rear of the tank is attached with 4 self tapper screws directly into the tank plastic. The IMS tank, in contrast has threaded ferrules for the 4 bolts. The self tappers only need about 2Nm to tighten and the tank holes can be easily stripped. I stripped 2 of them but repaired them by gluing some thin bits of cable tie into the holes using the correct glue. When he started the bike, it sounded just like my 500, very noisy and mechanical and after 5 years I still can’t get used to the “non Japanese” sounding motor. But these motors are proven 50,000 km+ minimal maintenance engines and will never be bettered.
Great to take time out for the vid Honda don’t seem to have these fuel pump problems. It puts me off buying a KTM. They should have sorted this problem years ago. Cheers
As a KTM owner I’m amazed that I need pay any attention to fuel pump. I’ve had dozen of fuel injected japanese bikes, also old ones, 3 of them at the moment and I never ever had any problems with fuel pumps, nor changed any of them. I think its this KTM thing, they select bad design/components and neglect to correct the problem. Instead they continue the multiply the problem by using same poor configuration in next genarations/sister models. They have good track record on that.
Great vid, will hopefully be re-watching this as I replace mine this weekend. Died in the middle of the bush the other day - 3 hrs of pushing uphill with red raw blistered heels and a strap tow from a mate the last km. Hoping this is the fix (2017 KTM 500 w/253hrs 12000km - wasn't ridden for a month). Cheers
I did the check at 2:38 (used a 1/4" drive extension to depress the switch inside). Key off - nothing. Turn key on, fuel gushes out. Mine is a 2016 model. Bike has run very well until yesterday when it started backfiring slightly, then wouldn't start. Only 90hrs on the engine. Any ideas?
Thanks for the vid. My 24 bike has the fuel pump at the top of the tank so should be a fair bit easier to change out. Hopefully not for a while though. Whats a fuel pump cost in Melb these days?
I'm thinking, why do they put the filter into the high pressure hose (the hose which is directly connected to the pump), instead of the low pressure hose (the one that goes out of the tank). In that case, there would be less pressure on the fuel filter that we all know has a cracking issue, probably from very high pressure. What do you think K ?
All-Balls is the one I used in this vid. But there's heaps around. Check the Taco Moto vid that does a breakdown of the different pumps and you'll see a heap of brands. th-cam.com/video/l2z1KVUkoV8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=miXQ92co7l6XRKFq
Keith my bike has a bog on WOT. It starts fine and hear the fuel pump prime but has a bog during hard throttle. Air filter is clean, spark plug is changed. I removed the inline fuel filter at the quick disconect to trouble shoot. But not convience its the issue. I didnt check the filter in the tank tho. Would you suggest to go inspect inside the fuel pump tank?
Great video thanks. I've done a few of these including one in the field on a mates bike.
Things I would add:
1. A translucent tank makes the job so much easier. You don't need a pull wire as you can see exactly where the pump is and guide it into place by angling the tank etc. A see through tank also helps prevent ever running the pump dry which prolongs it's life.
2 Replacing the hose between the pump and filter with a quality submersible rubber fuel hose makes changing the pump or the filter a far easier job.
3. I have had a pressure drop from a small hole wearing in one of the corrugated hoses from vibrartion. The hose was rubbing against the other corrugated hose next to it. This was at about 500hrs on the bike. I now make sure to cable tie the hoses securely together in the hope that this will prevent it happening again and inspect the hoses carefully each time I have the pump out. Unfortunately the rubber hoses are too thick to swap out all the plastic ones.
4. I test the fuel pressure with a gauge after each assembly to ensure there are no leaks in the system. There is one oring in particular where the pump exits the tank that can cause a pressure drop without causing a leak. It's on the threaded nipple on the bottom of the pump assembly.
The pump should produce around 50psi and it should hold the pressure for a few minutes once it switches off. If the pressure drops rapidly you must look for a leak in the system.
Great to see another video from you Keith, and another informative one with useful tips too! 👍
A couple of points. I once bought a supposedly Japanese made pump but the spigot where you fit the hose was just smooth sided and the kit came with rubber fuel lines. Big problem! I fitted it, left it overnight in the tank with fuel and the rubber hose slid off the smooth sided spigot. The spigot MUST have ridges on it, as his one has to ensure the hose stays on and you MUST use the hard plastic ridged fuel hose.
If you have an Acerbis tank, the pump connection plate at the rear of the tank is attached with 4 self tapper screws directly into the tank plastic. The IMS tank, in contrast has threaded ferrules for the 4 bolts. The self tappers only need about 2Nm to tighten and the tank holes can be easily stripped. I stripped 2 of them but repaired them by gluing some thin bits of cable tie into the holes using the correct glue.
When he started the bike, it sounded just like my 500, very noisy and mechanical and after 5 years I still can’t get used to the “non Japanese” sounding motor. But these motors are proven 50,000 km+ minimal maintenance engines and will never be bettered.
You're a legend Keith!
Great to take time out for the vid Honda don’t seem to have these fuel pump problems. It puts me off buying a KTM. They should have sorted this problem years ago. Cheers
As a KTM owner I’m amazed that I need pay any attention to fuel pump. I’ve had dozen of fuel injected japanese bikes, also old ones, 3 of them at the moment and I never ever had any problems with fuel pumps, nor changed any of them.
I think its this KTM thing, they select bad design/components and neglect to correct the problem. Instead they continue the multiply the problem by using same poor configuration in next genarations/sister models. They have good track record on that.
Interesting to cut open the dirty internal fuel filter to see what it has accumulated.
Great vid, will hopefully be re-watching this as I replace mine this weekend. Died in the middle of the bush the other day - 3 hrs of pushing uphill with red raw blistered heels and a strap tow from a mate the last km. Hoping this is the fix (2017 KTM 500 w/253hrs 12000km - wasn't ridden for a month). Cheers
Great Video! Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Glad it was helpful!
I did the check at 2:38 (used a 1/4" drive extension to depress the switch inside). Key off - nothing. Turn key on, fuel gushes out. Mine is a 2016 model. Bike has run very well until yesterday when it started backfiring slightly, then wouldn't start. Only 90hrs on the engine.
Any ideas?
Good to know remove/install tips
Just about to upgrade my fuel pump to the Taco Moto unit and their Fuel Filter this weekend... Great timing!
Doing this exact thing in a few months time; excited to just forget about it once the 3000H unit is in!
Have and of failures on that. The taco moto been fixed,
@@CBWANADA I don't understand your comment
Thanks Keith, great info as always.👍
Great video keith. Really usefull.
Do you find the stalk ktm filters and pumps are OK or should we get aftermarket ones
Good vid. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the vid. My 24 bike has the fuel pump at the top of the tank so should be a fair bit easier to change out. Hopefully not for a while though. Whats a fuel pump cost in Melb these days?
Thank you Keith
Nice tips!
I'm thinking, why do they put the filter into the high pressure hose (the hose which is directly connected to the pump), instead of the low pressure hose (the one that goes out of the tank). In that case, there would be less pressure on the fuel filter that we all know has a cracking issue, probably from very high pressure. What do you think K ?
Another great video - thanks for the tips. Can you buy the All Ballz kit locally or need to import it?
Bought it from MX store I think
Great video thanks, can you tell me the name of the fuel pump kit?
All-Balls is the one I used in this vid. But there's heaps around. Check the Taco Moto vid that does a breakdown of the different pumps and you'll see a heap of brands.
th-cam.com/video/l2z1KVUkoV8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=miXQ92co7l6XRKFq
Hey mate I’m keen on one of your uhf coms
Away until next week, I'll have more of the baofeng units in the shop after that. ko-fi.com/keithjobson
Drill holes in the plastic housing so gas can get to pump better
Hi Keith just wandering your bike is 2019 and how mane fuel pumps did you replace >> Mine is 2020 15k and still original pump ??
Just one. OEM one lasted 300 hrs.
Why didn’t upgrade to the TacoMoto 3000K pump motor?
Wasn't available when I need it.
Got you, good luck safe and enjoyable rides.
How much 4 the kit good vids
The all balls one was around $130 AUD
didnt want the taco moto long life pump?
no stock at the time I needed one! Next time, in about 100 hours I'll swap this one out for the Taco unit
When I replaced mine. I used fuel hose from Supercheap with new clamps. Very easy
Good tip!
Stranded again by the orange menace 😔
Keith my bike has a bog on WOT. It starts fine and hear the fuel pump prime but has a bog during hard throttle. Air filter is clean, spark plug is changed. I removed the inline fuel filter at the quick disconect to trouble shoot. But not convience its the issue. I didnt check the filter in the tank tho. Would you suggest to go inspect inside the fuel pump tank?
why is this guy going through so many fuel pumps