Vlog 16: more wobbly furniture building for my DIY campervan conversion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This was originally part of the last video but together than went on a bit too long hence me splitting it into two parts. In this then, I continue describing how I'm building the furniture for the campervan including a bed that is also a seating and storage area. Plus I show the water storage, gas locker and heater areas.
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David says he can't design, but all the time uses CAD. Cardboard aided design, genius. Give yourself more credit for a wonderful achievement.
Props for the Pratchett reference. A true genius of English language literature.
The thing i like about your videos David is that you do the stuff that millions of us blokes think about, but never do and you encounter the troubles that we would come up against, but fortunately never do. It's strangely satisfying living your life vicariously but never actually having to jump in boots and all !!
I'm glad I'm saving you the trauma!
I understand your "design as you go" approach, I think that would be how I would go about it. Love the Pratchett reference! Made me laugh.
I'm always pleased when someone likes my little references :-)
Thank you for making it so anyone can understand what your saying and doing. I have watched so many videos but keep coming back to yours 😊
Thank you so much! :-)
and soon.... we'll see the marble... and leather covering ... and decorator lamps appearing... Can't wait!
not quite sure why but when I watched this I seemed to have a knowing smile on my face - reminds me of when I had my first house and decided to build a bespoke kitchen - it looked lovely in the end as I'm sure your fit out will as well.
I like the design for the bed, the secret of living in small spaces is having multi use kit, sofa/bed/storage, is a perfect example.
I would hinge the water door upwards for extra workspace next to the sink.
I haven't done that but I do have extra space to the left of the kitchen, as you'll see
looking good! your ideas are bril! i would have probably messed it up by now, but your showing everyone how its done right! 😊 (i mean planning as you go along done right!)
i so agree on the programming! reverse planning works well! build it then do the plans! excellent!
now once its all done you need a garage on the boat! 😂😂😂😜😜😜
its wonderful watching these, you have the idea in ye grey matter, thats all you need (and materials!) keep up the excellence! "the cut cruiser" will be finished in no time! (hmm, good name for it that!)
Strap the water containers in place. Magnetic catches: the first bump in the road and it will fall off. Totally with your 'design it as I build approach' and your programming technique exactly matches mine! It's looking good.
I was going to suggest strapping the water containers too!
I was thinking simple bolt lock outside the door will do the trick?
example:
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CP368T2/ref=dp_cerb_1
I like how honest this guy is about the problems he has putting things together. He's not Peter Perfect. He's like most of us amateurs putting something together for the 1st time. Bravo!
Thank you
I really like that functional design for the bed.
Plans are made to be revised.. Good carpentry skills. Cheers
Use the wooden end where the water bottles are going,and make it a lift up table, with a Hidden hinge at the top and a bolt latch on the bottom to keep things snug and secured, oh and I thought the lol was going at the bottom of the bed!!! Loving the videos, can't wait to get my own lil van and explore ,doing a fab job, love how your brain is working on the pros and cons of different things, oh and so glad you ain't got a Brummie accent, and Botox smile....oh behave victor...ok ok I've had my moment😁
Considering I grew up in the West Midlands it's rather odd that I have a Home Counties accent!
Love your attitude. And I can tell you, as a professional programmer for decades, that your approach of giving it a go and fixing what doesn't work is much more typical of real development than the plan, plan, plan approach that actually results in over-budget disasters. Oh, and thanks for the video about cleaning a cassette toilet - that's how we found Cruising the Cut a few months back. Brilliant youtubing. Best wishes. Kev.
:-)
I really do wish you had elected to draw out your plans in advance and show them to us. Having seen your cartographic skills, it would have been quite interesting.
One day I'll show you the back of an envelope on which I sketched my plan!
Please do that Sir! I shall then compare and contrast it with Greg Virgoe's Sketchup plan. But, in your favor, is the chance that your envelope will resemble the final product as closely as your first map matched the English canal system. That is to say, in a general sort of way.
Just round those lathe ends off which hold the tops in place over the toilet and storage, it then gives them a bit of a lead and will make the action of closing a bit smoother.
Yeah, I've done that! Cheers :-)
Well I was falling off my seat with laughter!😂. Don’t get me wrong, it all looks like an excellent job so far but the descriptions by yourself of how it’s all going, and how it all will eventually work are hilarious! On a serious note, the seating, storage ideas and bed looks fab. 😊 Thank you for sharing.
For benchtop I'd concider using a piece of thin stainless steel. Durable and looks good too.
Sounds nice but I've done it already!
Ha! I am that peaing princess. That's why I can't sleep on those darn moveable cushions that are srating and backrest slid down to form the bed in campers.I can feel the lines of the darn things and it's maddening to me. Thanks for the explaining David. Now I can see what you were talking about.
Using plywood for that counter top is a fine idea. Maybe a suggestion? Why not apply a thin pice of oak ply to the top of the plywood. That might be a lot cheaper? I have no idea how much that stuff costs over there so please forgive me if that would be not usable because of price.
As for the hinges, you should be able to get some that actually hinge from the inside and those one's just kick the door a little bit from the wall when opening the door.
And you might be able to keep those gray and fresh water tanks in place with a little bit of strapping. The kind that is used for retaining loads on the backs of trucks. Something that's about one inch and just uses a cam lock for retaining.
Keep up the good work sir. You got this.
The princess gag, hilarious. Your doing a fabulous job. Very well done David
Haha, love the abrupt endings 😊
Hi David, can't you have about 2 or 3" or more overhang off the end of the bench top to give you a bit more prep area and also what I did with the cut out of the centre for the sink to fit in, I just cut that piece of wood up into a chopping board, a small lap table and 6 coffee mug coasters ! I hope you get what I mean. Seeya Rob
Yep, gotcha but too late (!) the cutout was turned into something else although for the life of me I can't remember what it is...
I can't imagine using that work process when you were in journalism. So many retractions.
Different concept there, you weren't trying to design anything. Yet it still applied, to a degree, to the way each news package was put together; it'd be shaped by what I ended up having got on film and then assembled, despite any attempt to pre-plan how it would be shot and told.
The van is really starting to look good now. I love the way the bed is going to work!
I was trying to think of who it was that made good viewing like these vids.. It was Tommy Cooper in the 70's well done mate for bring back all those good memories.
Haha ... "not like that..like that" ;-)
It’s really starting to look like a camper van now! I think your bed/sofa idea is great. Looking forward to seeing how it works when it’s finished.
Hi, regarding the water butts, you could fix (screw) a strap to the body of the van to fix them with. In fact I suggest you do that no matter what you decide on for the door. Great work by the way. Enjoy.
Use pine floor boards for the sink / cooker area easy to work with minimal waste and once all glued together can be stained and sealed to whatever takes your fancy. Keep up the hit and miss approach it's the only way to learn what works for you. Good job.👍
Cheers; too late now, the vlogs lag "real time" by a few weeks so the cooker's all in place but thanks anyway :-)
This is funny stuff...so much more entertaining than the usual 'pro' conversions. Keep up the great work...I really look forward to your posts !!
Hi David
Very interesting video as normal, if you go with the ply worktop you could just tile the top before dropping in the sink easy and cheap to. I fitted out an old transit many years ago really enjoyed it, it was one of the old transits with the sliding front door great on the hot summer days.
Aha! Just realized why I always have to measure 3+ times and cut 2+ times. Because I build just like you. Just a sketch on paper, or in my head, of what I want to build, then start building. (This is also why I also have to make multiple trips to the store to buy more wood, more screws, more glue, more....
So many trips to the store..... ;-) I hear you!
Taking shape each video bro.
Delicious reasoning found on this channel. Oh, to be this man's neighbor...
??
@@Vandemonium Mr. H was giving you a compliment. He was basically saying that you have great reasoning, explain your ideas and thoughts very well to us, the viewers and that he would enjoy being your neighbor. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the great content!
I live in a caravan, my sink unit has a piece of wood that fits over the sink when not in use, which makes a lovely kitchen bench area, I then just take it out when I want to use the sink :)
Quoting like a pro, it made this video the best you've ever done.
In the U. S. we have laminated cabinet tops with builtin back splash for the sink area.
I'm with Lynn Rixson,, your vids are brilliant viewing... keep 'em coming...
If you buy a roll of wood effect plastic contact that you use for book covering that would work for the surface area next to the hob. I covered an old desk with it for use as a kitchen bench and it has lasted years and is easy to clean.
Looking very good!!
An idea for your water bottle situation, you ca either run the wiring up the side of the pillar and make it cross from 1 side of the pillar to the other just under the worktop or drill a hole either side of the pillar and feed the wiring through the pillar. Hope it helps.
Unfortunately it won't work, there's no space to run it up and I can't (indeed won't) drill through that pillar as I think it's structural but also there's a wire in it. And the bundle of wires come out from the floor next to the tank so they'll still be in the way. Never fear though, it's not going to be an issue - keep watching!!
With my van build I sketch an image I have of the kind of thing I want then leave it and other things you didn't think of that originally popped up in my head force me to 're think and 're design. Kind of 50/50 of design and build...... I also spent a lot of time just sitting in it in the driveway trying to think of every scenario to help evolve the project but it's really a never ending design, improve, fidget with it catch22 that you just gotta MAKE A DESISION, stick to it and then improve other things around those decisions. Really enjoy your honest van build, mistakes and all, just like mine. Lol
Raise the floor level in the cupboard so it sits above the wires and will get more width
There's no space due to the sink and the pipes off it.
Best way, just blunder through. You can never underestimate the power of blunder! I was worried there might be another cushion rant coming on.
Maybe I'll do one, as a special treat :-)
Looking good!
looking good keep up the good work
Admire your tenacity 👍
You could paint all exposed wood to stop any splintering and get a plastic chop plate for the end of the sink. How about your supply water jug being smaller maybe 10 or 11 liters instead of 13. For drinking water you could always just use some bottled water in the fridge and use the sink bottle for any wash-up. Also with your waste water jug being bigger than the supply bottle less chance of a overflow. A cheap flip latch like you'd use on a screen door should work fine for that door on the end of the sink.
Smashing ... although I feel if you buy a nice bit of butchers block worktop if you're careful you will have a nice two sided chopping block and hot pan/plate/etc stand which with some ingenuity could live tucked away somewhere sensible. You can often find nice worktop on eBay or preloved. That's where I found mine for my garage roll cab top.
Yet another suggestion,😁. Go to a caravan Parts/accessories Place and check out their hinges and door catches , They will have other stuff there that ordinary hardware shops don’t carry. You don,t want doors to open when your driving over bumpy roads, or maybe you don,t have bumpy roads in the UK.🤔🤔
Nah, not a single bumpy road here ;-) ;-)
Your layout looks awesome! Loving your innovative bed solution :)
Your doing a great job keep at it,love the Chanel
looking good!
Regarding the strips of brown ply you have on the top of your base bed . The best way i think is to put a 3" x 2" timber under the top . The best way i would approach this is put a pencil mark under the slats at the back of your bottom framework , from underneath .then turn them over and screw them on. If any of that makes any sense. Just a thought gerald .PS your doing great
Hi David,
I think l get the gist of the bed base, which is similar to many caravan arrangements.
The storage of the fresh and grey water bottles where they foul the wires, is there enough height to perhaps raise the floor above the cables to
Provide enough room for them as the wires will be lower.
An elastic loop will secure the bottles and the end access door simply secure with "Velcro"
There's not enough height, I tried that but they get in the way of the sink and the water pipes. Cheers though!
Firmly esconsed in the 'make it, and try to fit it' camp. Design, think tanks, and team talks have their place. .......not in DIY land. Rough idea, then have a go, like you said, do it often enough in various situations and you pick up what works and doesn't. Carry on, Vantastic job.......oooh dear!!
Though the balsa wood model helps :)
Echoing the comments below, you could use the walnut or bamboo or whatever wood you prefer but join the cabinet portion at the left with the longer support pieces for the fixtures and fill the joins with the sawdust from cutting and sanding the wood with wood glue or epoxy (whichever stains best) to eliminate the crumbs and what that falls in cracks to make life difficult but which come with cooking. You have a limited amount of countertop and you might consider a pull out or pull up workspace when you need it. Lastly, you can use internal hinges to the right of the kitchen, placing them above and below the cross pieces. The hinges should do the job just fine, though towards center because they will still occupy the top portion and the bottom portion. If you feel that the placement could compromise the hinges, use a pair graded for a heavier load. Looks great! I have wanted to do this for a few years but haven’t figured out ease of movement for my husband and his massive wheelchair. Love your videos, still!
May I make a suggestion? If your water tanks are not in need of a lot of hight. Cut some strips of wood, and glue them down, and let them sit on them, over the wires. To not have to worry about your tanks falling over. Put two two screw in eyebolts, inside of the cabinet, where you can't see them. Then run s bungee cord around them to hold them in place.
No height alas to raise them due to the sink & pipes but the bolts idea sounds good!
I like that idea about the cutting board being on the end like that. Just make sure, if you do it in wood, that what you finish it in has to be food safe. Or you'll be eating varnish that might make you sick. & always do around 3 coats for a shine. I hate when people buy expensive wood then cover it up with paint. Let that wood shine baby, let it shine.
I mean if your going to just paint it. Use something that's not as expensive, like pine for example, pine is cheap & light & it doesn't cost a fortune like oak or walnut. I used pine for my end tables I had a friend make for me. I stained them a Golden Pecan, then put a clear varnish on them & they are just beautiful. I've had nurses try to buy them from me. I just keep saying no thank you. Then they say if you ever change your mind please tell me 1st. I'll buy them in a heart beat.
But everyone has to do them. & don't change for anybody. You do you!!!
Thanks for another great video of the van built. How go have a gin & just relax. I worry about you worrying so much about building your van out. Know one will see your mistakes, so please try to relax.
Thanks, Chris
I've both painted and varnished the wood, as you'll see. Errm, I am relaxed. This is me being relaxed.
Vandemonium I'm so glad your relaxed then. I try not to be such a Mother hen.. lol..
I recently suffered from concussion after doing a head dive into the corner of my cooker hood. I thought my brain function was improving . Sadly not, I sat watching this in mystified bewilderment. But then I was a deprived child who never had Lego.
The only way to make the oak worktop feasible would be to use the cut out wasted bit and turn that piece into a table.
Good point!
Since you would not want to pull the bed extension all the way out, you could hide the securing of the battens under the bed anyway, sitting flush to the part covering the wheel arch, and that would let you put hinges on the stationary battens.
You can tile the worktop with small mosaic tiles , it would be waterproof then . The bed you could add another piece of plywood and hinge it like a door , when you entertain , just op-en it out and fit some legs . With the water bottles is it just a matter of the wires in the way ? Maybe you could fit a false bottom . Check out the alternative to Velcro ,you can hang quite heavy weights from the latest stuff. You could add to your bed trim so everything would look nice , however you can then remove and reposition . Hope this is helpful .
I like the tiles idea! Not sure what you mean about the bed but it's finished now, you'll see in an upcoming video. Cheers
You could buy Laminate sheet (tough and fully waterproof) on a roll, it's only 1.5mm thick and it will glue to your plywood. it's the same material that standard worktops are constructed. It comes in all colours and design patterns and is relatively cheap. I get mine from BGN Boards Co.
I wouldn't worry too much about feeling the little ply strips through your mattress - I'd worry more about feeling the bloody great gaps between the slats when it's slid out in wide mode!
by the way - your ply floor-fitting tribulations (from several vlogs ago) suddenly made sense after you explained you (lack of) design philosophy :)
The bed design is very common not only in vans so should be fine. The floor didn't need design, the old ply was the template.
Loving this series, although I still think the beauty of the canals has me slightly preferring the narrowboating... Although that might change when this thing is ready to take on the road! As to your comment about computer programmers and design documents, I'm a top-level web programmer at a marketing company and also a hobbyist video game programmer, and design documents in the way that you described them don't exist in my experience! We might get some instructions about what something should look like or be capable of doing, but when it comes down to actually writing the code we are just freestyling to a large extent :D
Haha, I worked for IBM and another large computer consultancy - all very formal corporate stuff!!
Sounds very similar to my current position, interesting... Maybe I too will find myself living aboard a narrowboat in another 20 years time. ;)
Starboard also known as marine board or HDPE sheeting would make a very nice low maintenance counter top.It isnt the cheapest stuff but a thin sheet on top of ply wouldn't be that much and chances are you'll find uses for the waste to offset the cost.
Use your ply then glue a oak laminate ect to it and leave the hole area un laminated......cut out the sink hole ...add a bit of edging. you have then solid wood top effect .
So refreshing...
"David and the Pea" will never sell.
I highly reccomend you have someone with a gas fitter's liscense connect the lines for the gas
, for safety and you might need to it to pass the MOT.
Yes, I will be doing that. It's not part of the MoT as far as I'm aware though.
Cabinetry hinges that require a 35 mm forstner bit and two blocks to give the required depth could be a solution, the advantage is, they would be hidden. Something to ponder for next project.
LOL... i'm a firm believer in the "just hack something together and we'll see where we end up" approach in programming! But it doesn't really translate well to real world projects in my experience. It's easy to start over or change course while you are coding but not when you are building a house (or a camper van)
Great update! Love the design for the bench/bed... was thinking about your counter top.. there’s really nice peel and stick vinyl strips available here in Canada that look like nice wood... what about something like that for the counter? I’d stick them on before cutting out the hole for the sink etc... then the edges would all be under the unit that’s going in... you could get away with cheap ply under it! Save some money... you may even be able to use an offcut of flooring that would fit that worktop? Maybe to match the floor?
Good idea. Alas it's all done now (the videos lag real-time by about four weeks)!
Vandemonium
Ah well... cant wait to see the video
for the Sink section top... seal the ply with thin coating of epoxy (unlss you are using marine ply) then tile it... tiles stand hot pans and look nice.
BTW i prefer that method of coding as well.. long live badly coded PHP!!
Haha, that pretty much sums up my code. The last stuff I did was "LAMP" - Linux, Apache, MySql and PHP. I presume that's all very old hat now!
Use a multi tool to separate the corner piece. Try the either a fine tooth or the flat blade. :)
I'm not taking it off. Too late now anyway, the whole thing's painted and largely finished, furniture-wise (as you'll see in future vlogs)
A tip for you method man when you make a frame with horizontal and vertical i noticed you put one screw in .put 2 screws in on a 45 degre angle it stops it from twisting or moving one screw it will move
I've tried to imagine having a dump using that toilet and I've spent 10 minutes laughing till I cried, picturing sitting on the toilet making eye contact with people walking by or friends and family inside the van. The issue could be resolved by putting a bucket over my head so I couldn't see anyone. 😅
Or close the curtains!
@@Vandemonium I'm going with the bucket. It's quicker
@@barkendog1You risk having people ask you to keep the bucket on permanently though. Just saying.
“The princess who could pee through thirty mattresses”
Btw, 18mm ply may be better for sink area as 12mm may warp/bend in time and the vibrations and weight of a healthy bouncing van!
Oops! Too late! Cross my fingers and hope for the best
@buslifenz used ply for their bench tops in their bus conversion. I think they were the thicker ply and seem to have held up well for over a year of full time living so far. They look good too.
Vandemonium ha ha, yeah I get it now..... just watched your first video on van build. Slowcoatch
Cool beans, figuring shit out.
I would not install a hinge for the water cabinet - at least not on the right side. When you want to access the cabinet you may need to haul the heavy canisters from the sliding door. So the hinged panel might be in your way
Good point
Faced ply would maybe make for a nice and inexpensive worktop
Noe that is quite brilliant work and one can see how things are coming along. I really like the layout, it is quitem flexible and allows you to use nearly everything in several different ways. I have seen much worse workmanship than your, including from German craftsmen, so my virtual hat is of to you.
I understand your reasoning about not getting expensive wood for the sink. BUT: 12 mm is not thick enough, really now. If you must get yourself something like boat builder's plywood at least 16 mm thick, which is waterproof, and give it a couple of coats. If you cut things right you might end up with plate you can place on top of the sink when you do not use it that you can use for kitchen work.
Keep it up please. And if you ever come to North Germany drop a hint please, I`'d love to show you around.
Too late, done now! (the videos lag real-time by about four weeks) but cheers anyway :-)
I would build a little lip out of wood to stop the water tanks moving in transit, then just need to lifted over an inch or two to get in. Also if you hinge the door, wouldnt it be better the other way so you can change the bottles while standing outside? Just some ideas :)
Actually there already is a lip from the wooden frame so maybe that'll be enough? The door is now on magnetic catches as you'll see in a later vlog.
Not sure if that's tall enough, would have to work out the tipping point. Ive just done a similar thing in my van, but mine need to top tip when I turn. Time will tell if its tall enough!
In water area raise the floor a couple inches with a platform so the electric cable are below the platform and not in the way of the two water bottles this could be I nice place underneath the platform to hide important papers and emergency money... as for the door to the water area make a French cleat on the bottom and magnets on the top...
Sadly no room as the sink and pipes get in the way :-(
You could put an interior hinge on the water cupboard David. You wouldnt see it at all.
It wouldn't work, there isn't an inside edge to fasten it to and the door overlaps the corner piece. I've used magnets now!
Looking good
I will all turn out ok, don't overthink it! Please be aware that your timber is the softest stuff, second only to balsa wood. You will probably find it will split when you screw your hinges on, (so drill pilot holes), but I think I would go for magnets. Decent neodymium? magnets are really powerful and you can epoxy glue them in place perhaps? Just an idea ol' chap. Ta.
It hasn't split and I always drill pilot holes. I've used magnets, glued on as you'll see in future videos :-)
Dude what about using the bit you cut out of the hob sink section you would cut out of a nice piece of wood as a table top.?
I've cut it into something but I can't remember what it was!
...water door, open into the Van, so you could stand out on the ground to pull out the Water bottles.
Brilliant effort (or at least it looks that way for this armchair warrior who’s paying someone else to clear the back yard and garage rather than do it myself :-)). Anyway, good enough for the start. You can always redo bits later if they really don’t work. I am curious though about your car: will you run a car and a van plus narrowboat once done renovating the van?
Well I live in the boat so that's not going anywhere! To start with I will keep car and van - the car's very cheap to run and ideal for nipping to the shops where the van will definitely be a campervan. Maybe later I'll just have the van.
Back to the old saying measuer twice cut once.
Gerard on readybaron.
Thanks for the Pratchett reference! I was smiling for 8:38 on! Am I correct that the van sits on the back of a turtle?
There are some elephants involved somehow as well!
use tile access panel magnets super strong and will hold it on there no problem
Just wait til you see upcoming vlogs, you won't believe how many magnets I've used!
just a couple of things, that toilet may be a bit heavy to lift in and out when partially full , imagine if it spilt!!! a door to slide it out might be better, an off cut of kitchen work top would be better than ply for you sink unit, just a couple of ideas, great build enjoying it.
It can't slide out as its too high for the top part of the frame. I'm well used to lifting 20l waste containers on my boat though and this is much the same so it won't be an issue. They're designed not to spill!
In our old Renault campervan years ago we had our loo under a seat just like you are having it. We used an old towel underneath and up the sides like a sling so it was easy to lift it out as getting a grip on either side of the loo was difficult due to lack of space.
And as you have said it is going to be a weekend type van the container will never be approaching full unless .... Delhi belly :(
👍 thanks again !
I have followed your van conversion build from the start, a fabulous job. Can you tell me what u managed to get it registered as with dvla when you finished it. Cheers happy travels
Hi. They’ve changed the rules since I did it but I had to send loads of photos showing the outside and inside, to prove it had a fixed bed, cooker, table etc. It’s been made harder now, I believe.
May I suggest what Ive done for many years and its never failed. Invest in a biscuit jointer Screw- fix sells cheap brands the machine will solve and make the strongest joints you will ever need using a beach wooden biscuit. In your case after you have cut the joint only glue PVA one half of the biscuit these will swell make certain to clean the other half of biscuit. Leave to dry for one hour then lightly sand the other half of biscuits keep testing the joint as it wants to be tight and will swell slightly with condensation. A biscuit not to close yo every corner will sort your problem. If you have never used a biscuit jointer then practice on scrap wood and check out on line TH-cam HOW TO USE A BISCUIT JOINTER. The secret to best joints is setting the machine up so it cuts accurately the cheaper biscuit jointing machines take longer to set up then the expensive biscuit jointers due to the pinion method that is used. These machines are a must to own and will give strength and speed up any thing you manufacture. Ive been a Cabinet maker over 44 years and if I could only own one electric machine a biscuit Jointer would be at the top of my list over any other tool. Dont forget to purchace the beach pressed biscuits about £30 for a 1000 but can buy smaller quantities the size that best for most jobs is 20 mm but the next size down 15mm may be best if your using thin timber. All you then do for your door is pull it gently and it will ease away from the frame work when pushed back into place it will be forever held very firmly. Let me know how you get on please. Thanks from, Karl, THE COFFIN MAKER.
Hi. Thank you for the detailed suggestion. I seem to recall watching a few "biscuit joint" videos when I was browsing various DIY channels etc in the run up to my build but I nnever did get one. This video, like all the others, is a few weeks behind "real time" on the van so by now the furniture's largely done but thanks again. Cheers
Hi David, a couple of questions. What camera are you using with your van vlogs? And where did you get that wonderful chair in your narrow boat? If anyone else knows, please chime in. Thank you