Very interested in a correct start procedure! The motor has run prior to being sat for around 10 years. Please email jb@designlab.cx if you have time thank you
As with a lot of early diesel engines I suspect you would start on gas then change to diesel Kerosene is a high geade of diesel So both require a good bit of heat to make it ignite If you don't want to run 100% gas Then make a mix of diesel and gas Maybe 1 or 2 cups gas to 1 gallon diesel
Here is a link showing hand starting a Lister CS1. You can hear the creak of the injector as he cranks it. This is what you need to hear. th-cam.com/video/NhAD8D3sM2A/w-d-xo.html. I actually have on of these engines.
That’s some awesome news! I suspected fuelling to be the next port of call after getting compression up. Thank you for your detailed write up and suggestions :-) I am hoping to get some time on this motor again some day soon.
The dual tank gives the clue the need for a starting fuel or a mix. Or use an old diesel mechanics trick my dad showed me. Heat the air intake with a propane torch while cranking over.
Yeah had kero in the starting tank, but didn’t realise the baffle between the 2 tanks had rusted through, meaning kero became diesel/kero mix. Didn’t have a propane torch at the farm so pre-heat is indeed one to try next start attempt for sure
a little tip: when you get that sucker running, DON'T ever shut it down. i can't say there was any lack of effort in this vid! but good luck on your next try, i'm sure it's not anything major wrong with it. :)
It was running when we first bought the property, however it has been sitting idle for 10 years or so. Needs fuel, compression, got compression, so I believe it will be the injector seals. Needs a proper service, not me playing bush hack, but yes it will run for sure
Wrap a long strap around the flywheel and tie the other end to your bumper... take off full blast... should get it spinning fast without the huff and puff...
As fast as the flywheel is coming to a stop after you close the de-compression valve I don't think you have a bad ring issue. Seems to have a lot of compression. It is not clear if this is a true diesel or a kerosene engine. If the later have you checked for ignition spark. Also bad fuel due to age or water in the fuel can be an issue. If this engine is gravity fed to a metering valve, keep in mind that any water in the tank is on the bottom and not fuel. Either way you might have better luck to drain both tanks and add new fuel. After that you might get it started with a little "start you bastard" spray. Good luck and keep that back straight. I cringe to think of what mine would have been like if I had put as much effort into starting the cranky old boy.
With the “Imperial Super Diesel” there is no ignition, it fires purely based on compression and head temperature. On farms and bush installations these engines run tirelessly on many fuels, including waste oil, kero, diesel, etc. My issues are possibly due to not enough compression (when cold), so likely some pre-heat will be all that is needed on my next attempt. Also checking into the injector there is a possible leak there as well
Having been a manufacturer of slow revving oil engines like that one. That looks like a warm day and it should start. It will never go if it is not injecting. What has happened is the jerk pump has stuck up. It happens to oil engines that have stood for a long time. So until you get the injector system working with a nice squeak as ScatManAust says, it will never go. With this type of hand start engine it is a bit like working yourself up to make it go. We could start 4 cylinder 5 litre engines by hand so you should be able to start that. But you only usually get one go after that you need a rest, or have two or three people. The secret is make sure everything is ready like fuel going in and no air in the system. either hand jerk the pump or rotate the engine by hand off compression until you here a nice creek of the injector. Set the fuel pump on maximum fuel. lubricate the bore with either diesel or light lubricating oil, this helps seal and reduce friction. Then you get that flywheel going as fast as all your body can muster and drop the decompressor lever. If it does not start have a cup of tea and redo the exercise but your body needs a few minutes to recharge the muscles with oxygen. But you comment at the start of this video is the key use brain not brawn. and egg cup of lub oil poured down that exhaust and turn it backward to suck it in might help. I have started the most knackered old nail by putting lub oil in the cylinders, so bad that when it had burned the oil it stopped. It looks like with the correct tinkering it will go. Ex Engineering director. RN Diesel Engine Co. Ltd
Might not be developing enough heat to fire. Try warming the cylinder head with a torch then crank. Once you get it going, let it idle for a bit to help free the rings.
i've started this old girl a few times over the years, and it was able to start from cold, but yeah it has sat 6 years or so since last run, as you suggest some heat should help get it going, as a last resort
You'd be surprised how many people (let's say blokes) have collapsed and died of a cardiac infarction from trying to start engines like these. With regard to 'Aerostart' etc, there is little point to squirting it into the inlet and cranking the engine over and over, because all you're doing is to blow that stuff out before you ever drop the compression lever, and perhaps that's just as well, because if that stuff ignites prematurely, and it does!, it will kick back and remove your thumb! Better to play a torch over the inlet port, even over the cylinder head, before and during the cranking process, plus, the proper "He-Man" types would keep cranking after dropping the lever - that's why you need to keep your thumbs and fingers on the same side of the crank handle. You may also find it advantageous to fill the water hopper with boiling water, if you have the means at your disposal. It's all about getting as much heat as you can into the combustion chamber/air charge to aid that first ignition. Once it's away, it'll run like a good'un. If run regularly, it'll help to prevent the valves, piston rings, cylinder wall from developing that layer of rust that can destroy the compression you need to generate the heat that is required to ignite the fuel.
why can't you clean that poor thing a bit? It's really rather neglected and dusty, dirty, full of old leaves and cobwebs-and how about some oil in the right places? Why doesn't that bother you seeing that lovely old machine so neglected ?..
I will be cleaning it properly, I oiled it up prior to attempting to start it. I have a set of period cast iron wheels to make a proper cart for it, so that I can move it in and out of the shed properly. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Sure hope part 2 goes better than part 1. Maybe ya should git ya a petrol hit or miss. So far it's been a miss entirely. Er ya gonna do a part 3 & maybe a part 4? Since ya did part 1 yer hair has turned grey! Maybe ya need to git out yer shotgun and give 'er a blast.
Haha for part 3 I’ve lost 30 kgs (65 pounds) as well as my hair turning grey, so might finally be fit enough to crank her over fast enough with the injector seal working to finally have her running on camera! Thanks heaps for watching and commenting mate
I was winded just watching that. I would have passed out by the end of the video if that was me! Reminds me of starting an old 2 stroke with old gas in the tank. Chris
Sorry it took so long to respond to your comment Chris, took me four days to catch my breath ;-) I will get this old engine running soon! I have a really nice set of cast iron wheels to make a suitable trolley and treat it to a bit of a birthday
When running it sounds like hit and Miss, by if I understand the point might be that hit and Miss is governed by keeping the exhaust valve open, whereas this engine is governed by the amount of fuel? Will need to examine closely once it's running :-)
I know its only a video without great sound, but what I don't hear is the definitive squeak of the injector, indicating you are Not injecting or injecting very little and certainly not enough. to start On both videos there is no squeak. No squeak no start The smoke you see out the exhaust does not necessarily mean you are getting fuel, certainly not enough. Make sure the fuel rack on the pump is in the full fuel position before you even start to crank otherwise your wasting time and energy. Also make sure the rack is not seized and can be pushed back to shut off position using the fuel shut off properly, otherwise if it does start it is likely to run away on ya. With a good fuel pump and injector and bled properly, YOU WILL HEAR THE SQUEAK
I know that is has sat for 8 years since I last had it running, and the seal around the injector might be bad, my next move is likely to pull the head and service the valves and injector, and check the piston and rings
There is a timed injection that is triggered in time with the de-compression pulse and the governor driven speed control (which is the heart of the hit or miss action)
Seriously your going to pop a vain. Get a 2x8, mount a motor with a rubber wheel to it. When you want to start the thing turn on the motor and raise the end of the board until the wheel makes contact. Quit trying to make a faces of death snuff film.
@@JBFromOZ I here ya. We're both big fellas and I learned a long time ago if I wanted to see 50... there has to be an easier way. Did you getter running?
You have come this far you may as well do it properly take it apart give it a good clean oil and grease let us all see inside the beast. it is real life beautiful artwork
Agreed, I have a lead on a nameplate on a similar specification engine, to reproduce and affix to it once rebuilt. I’ve also sourced a set of 4 cast iron wheels to make a rolling cart for it as well
I did purge the lines, in the first video, the fuel was diesel, in the second the fuel was kerosene, both times the fuel line was primed with fuel to the injector
Yes there will most definitely be a part 3, I am building my shed on the farm in April, then I will have somewhere on the property to do the job properly, inspect the bore, reseat the valves de coke the head, fix the leak in the fuel tank etc.
Yeah I am thinking that they are gunned up with crud so on the list, also I’m getting some pressure blow by up the injector so possibly dirt and or corrosion on the injector valve as well
I’ve noticed that you stop cranking it over then turn the decompression off. Not saying your doing anything wrong here, but the way I’ve watched others, to crank these engine especially diesel ones you crank it over by hand building up momentum with the decompression engaged once you’ve built the momentum, and when you are ready to start you release the decompression lever while still cranking it over ,and it hopefully starts after all it’s still a diesel it will take some work. Any how the idea here is that the momentum you generate in the flywheel will help push it pass compression once you release the decompression. It basically still needs a hand after you release the decompression. I know it sounds scary with the type of cranking method, but that’s why the crank handle locks in the Direction that it runs and folds into the flywheel the opposite direction. You also kinda have to time the release of the decompression release as well if I’m not mistaken but I’m not sure we’ll this would be at exactly. it makes sense because every time you release the decompression it gets pass compression once but loses all of its energy to continue even after it fires once it did fire at least once I heard it!
@@JBFromOZ I hope you figure it all out I can not wait to hear it run, next you try and start it see about finding a hairdryer, or hot air gun and have someone blow the hot air into the intake while it’s being turned over.
Thank you for your comments, and I appreciate the time it takes to think through an appropriate expression of your opinion. I have checked back through both the titles and descriptions of both of these crap videos, and was not able to find the word “starting” anywhere in there. Would happily add this in there if you like sir, so you can properly feel indignant about my movies, and their misleading titles, please let me know how you would have me proceed Thank you Abraham G, may the sun shine warmly on your face
Did you hold the fuel valve open for a bit to charge the cylinder up a bit? Also you should keep cranking over a few compression's instead of letting go of the handle so early, It's a Mcdonald, they never start that easy!
G'day Mate, I was concerned that the opposite might be occurring, if the injector valve was not searing properly and resulting in flooding the cylinder. I found last time that I ended with a squelching or gurgling sound from the exhaust. I had a few decent white puffs early on, so was still encouraged. Historically (up to 8 + years ago) from memory it started really easily. Doubtless time makes this memory a little difference :-)
you might have to pull the brons injector out an reseat the valve if you think thats the problem. Normally if they charge up too much with fuel they will knock a bit and you just decompress it for a bit until the excess fuel clears.
If you have a blow torch put it in the inlet of the engine and leave for 30seconds to it is hot then tern the engine over with the blow torch still in it then slam the decompretion down and as the engine wil be worm you should have more luck if you don't have a blow torch you can have a oil rag on a melted rod next to the inlet.
A Mapp gun is the go, I have even used them to warm up the intake on diesels that have sat for a few years. With someone cranking and someone else holding the mapp flame into the intake it should heat up the air charge enough to ignite what ever is in there.Diesels fire off at 900C ,so you need plenty of compression or added heat .A relative had a Chinese diesel years ago and that bugger would never fire unless we aimed a flame into the intake port. In the chinese manual it said to hold a piece of burning bamboo....
Well, it was a good cardio workout :) But seriously, I do not really understand how the engine is supposed to work. Apparently it is a diesel engine that runs on kerosene. Very common in the US in the 1920s. So it has to have a glow plug or something to start. That is the first thing I would check. Then the classic diesel failure, the broken or loose piston ring. Good luck to you!
It's a compression engine, no glow plug or spark plug. Theres a decompression valve, which is the lever I drop after giving it a crank. Once it fires, there is a governed injector which feeds a measured amount of fuel into the chamber each cycle. Where the speed is over the governed speed, the injector is not triggered, hence the hit and Miss sound these are famous for
Kerosene was a popular tractor fuel in the 1920s. However most if not all started on gasoline and then switched over. I am surprised you can get kerosene to work like a diesel. I hope you can figure it out.
I did have an International super WD9 tractor, which started on petrol, then ran on diesel. I sold that on a few years ago to someone who wanted to restore it back to former glory!
Nope, still not enough compression. Not even close. Myself I'm certain I'm hearing a tonne of blowby hissing under the crank cover. The way this engine was stuck when you started tinkering on it tells me the rings are either stuck in their grooves, scarred or broken. With proper compression on this size engine you should barely be able to turn it past compression with both hands. It really really really can't be hissing much at all when going past compression. You need to take the head off and service the valves. You also need to take the piston out and work on the rings. AND in my experience starting an oil or diesel engine on kerosene fule or diesel fule are both equally EASY when the engine is properly functioning.
@@JBFromOZ the piston can come out either end, just be sure not to scratch the cylinder while working in there. You might as well take the head off to work on the valves and try letting the piston out that end. It may not want to come out the head end if the cylinder has worn, there may be a slight step inside the cylinder from the wear, in such case the piston will have to come out the crank end. Once the piston is out be extremely careful of the rings as they are cast iron and very brittle. Time and patience should be priority with this type of work, forcing and rushing will only succeed in either damaging or breaking irreplaceable parts. Again use caution during reassembly, get another pair of hands to install the piston. Just a suggestion, don't take the injector or pump apart unless you are very sure of what you are doing.
Thanks Mr Laporte, I will have this in mind when I finally get time to do a proper job on the engine. It should be possible to check for a ridge on the cylinder from wear with the head removed. I am very keen to locate a manual or parts book for this engine, to learn more about it before I pull it open
@@JBFromOZ yes you will be able to check for cylinder wear with the head off. If you look around youtube there are many videos of people working on the old engines. There's a little asian fella who made quite a few videos fixing diesel farm engines, his videos give a decent concise overview of many engine repair operations.
G'day Ronald! i'm sad that you short changed me 3 minutes of watch time, plus missed part one entirely! there is so much more of your life you could have wasted mate! thanks for watching and commenting, hopefully we can get her started next time ....
Yeah there was definitely an exhaust valve leak when I first went to start it, I was able to get the valve to seat by twisting the valve from the stem end while it sat against the seat, after which compression improved greatly. Next issue I believe will be the injector not pumping fuel, others have suggested when these dry out they stick and don’t inject properly.
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There's another video of a guy trying to start identical arm exercise machine....had same exact results! 😆
I've seen the 20hp big brother to this engine and they start on gasoline and switch over to kerosene or diesel once it reaches operating temperature.
I can understand why starter motors were invented.
Absolutely!
I have several of these McDonalds. Please contact me if you want to start it. There is nothing wrong with the engine.
Very interested in a correct start procedure! The motor has run prior to being sat for around 10 years. Please email jb@designlab.cx if you have time thank you
Your going to need a tractor come over with a belt put belt on wheel while other side belt is on tractor fly wheel & get it started for u
Could be the go for sure!
As with a lot of early diesel engines I suspect you would start on gas then change to diesel
Kerosene is a high geade of diesel
So both require a good bit of heat to make it ignite
If you don't want to run 100% gas
Then make a mix of diesel and gas
Maybe 1 or 2 cups gas to 1 gallon diesel
Sounds like a plan! I must get the old girl out from under covers and try again soon
Here is a link showing hand starting a Lister CS1. You can hear the creak of the injector as he cranks it. This is what you need to hear. th-cam.com/video/NhAD8D3sM2A/w-d-xo.html. I actually have on of these engines.
That’s some awesome news! I suspected fuelling to be the next port of call after getting compression up.
Thank you for your detailed write up and suggestions :-) I am hoping to get some time on this motor again some day soon.
The dual tank gives the clue the need for a starting fuel or a mix. Or use an old diesel mechanics trick my dad showed me. Heat the air intake with a propane torch while cranking over.
Yeah had kero in the starting tank, but didn’t realise the baffle between the 2 tanks had rusted through, meaning kero became diesel/kero mix. Didn’t have a propane torch at the farm so pre-heat is indeed one to try next start attempt for sure
Would like to see vid when you do get it running!
Fantastic video
did you think that the small part of the tank is for gas and the big part you for fuel
Yes, starting fuel and running fuel
I will give you $100.00 bucks for it
TH-cam has paid me more for this video :-)
If you still have it do you want to sell it?
This one is staying in the family sorry mate :-)
The 3rd part is watching him cut it up with the gas axe!.
well I won't see I'm fed up of watching it
just put i bike wheel against it and start pedaling or use a motorcycle
Did you ever get it running?
I have had it running previously but not since these videos were posted!
a little tip: when you get that sucker running, DON'T ever shut it down. i can't say there was any lack of effort in this vid!
but good luck on your next try, i'm sure it's not anything major wrong with it. :)
It was running when we first bought the property, however it has been sitting idle for 10 years or so. Needs fuel, compression, got compression, so I believe it will be the injector seals. Needs a proper service, not me playing bush hack, but yes it will run for sure
Start ya facking cant 😂
Hang On you put the fuel in the wrong place, TIP it all over the BLOODY THING and set FIRE to it. that's why your friend died,, trying to start it.
Wrap a long strap around the flywheel and tie the other end to your bumper... take off full blast... should get it spinning fast without the huff and puff...
preheat the head with a propane or similar torch, not hot, just warm..
Great idea Tom, I think I need to sort the injector out as well, but a bit of pre-heat would be sensible also
As fast as the flywheel is coming to a stop after you close the de-compression valve I don't think you have a bad ring issue. Seems to have a lot of compression. It is not clear if this is a true diesel or a kerosene engine. If the later have you checked for ignition spark. Also bad fuel due to age or water in the fuel can be an issue. If this engine is gravity fed to a metering valve, keep in mind that any water in the tank is on the bottom and not fuel. Either way you might have better luck to drain both tanks and add new fuel. After that you might get it started with a little "start you bastard" spray. Good luck and keep that back straight. I cringe to think of what mine would have been like if I had put as much effort into starting the cranky old boy.
With the “Imperial Super Diesel” there is no ignition, it fires purely based on compression and head temperature.
On farms and bush installations these engines run tirelessly on many fuels, including waste oil, kero, diesel, etc.
My issues are possibly due to not enough compression (when cold), so likely some pre-heat will be all that is needed on my next attempt.
Also checking into the injector there is a possible leak there as well
I need a crank handle for my hit and miss engine 1"3/4shaft does anybody know where I can get one.
You are a brute cranking that hard. I'm betting on you in that Chuck the ice man Liddell match up.
Use two batteries.and choke it....if u can.
Hasn’t, got a clue ,hard to watch 😏
Start on gasoline. Then switch to diesel.
Having been a manufacturer of slow revving oil engines like that one. That looks like a warm day and it should start. It will never go if it is not injecting. What has happened is the jerk pump has stuck up. It happens to oil engines that have stood for a long time. So until you get the injector system working with a nice squeak as ScatManAust says, it will never go. With this type of hand start engine it is a bit like working yourself up to make it go. We could start 4 cylinder 5 litre engines by hand so you should be able to start that. But you only usually get one go after that you need a rest, or have two or three people. The secret is make sure everything is ready like fuel going in and no air in the system. either hand jerk the pump or rotate the engine by hand off compression until you here a nice creek of the injector. Set the fuel pump on maximum fuel. lubricate the bore with either diesel or light lubricating oil, this helps seal and reduce friction. Then you get that flywheel going as fast as all your body can muster and drop the decompressor lever. If it does not start have a cup of tea and redo the exercise but your body needs a few minutes to recharge the muscles with oxygen. But you comment at the start of this video is the key use brain not brawn. and egg cup of lub oil poured down that exhaust and turn it backward to suck it in might help. I have started the most knackered old nail by putting lub oil in the cylinders, so bad that when it had burned the oil it stopped. It looks like with the correct tinkering it will go.
Ex Engineering director. RN Diesel Engine Co. Ltd
This motor ran first crank 8 years back but time sitting and dried out injector seals etc, all needing attention
Might not be developing enough heat to fire. Try warming the cylinder head with a torch then crank. Once you get it going, let it idle for a bit to help free the rings.
i've started this old girl a few times over the years, and it was able to start from cold, but yeah it has sat 6 years or so since last run, as you suggest some heat should help get it going, as a last resort
JBFromOZ would love to see her run again.. keep trying & use hot water in the cooling tank to pre warm 😏
You'd be surprised how many people (let's say blokes) have collapsed and died of a cardiac infarction from trying to start engines like these.
With regard to 'Aerostart' etc, there is little point to squirting it into the inlet and cranking the engine over and over, because all you're doing is to blow that stuff out before you ever drop the compression lever, and perhaps that's just as well, because if that stuff ignites prematurely, and it does!, it will kick back and remove your thumb! Better to play a torch over the inlet port, even over the cylinder head, before and during the cranking process, plus, the proper "He-Man" types would keep cranking after dropping the lever - that's why you need to keep your thumbs and fingers on the same side of the crank handle. You may also find it advantageous to fill the water hopper with boiling water, if you have the means at your disposal.
It's all about getting as much heat as you can into the combustion chamber/air charge to aid that first ignition. Once it's away, it'll run like a good'un. If run regularly, it'll help to prevent the valves, piston rings, cylinder wall from developing that layer of rust that can destroy the compression you need to generate the heat that is required to ignite the fuel.
very good advice!! thumb risk is something I'm aware of as we attempted to start.. cheers mate
"I think I can, I think I can, I think I can... Nope... I can't... "
Well, I was cheering you on... 😉
Hahaa yeah I nearly burst a valve, but.. in the famous words of Mr Schwarzenegger... Aisle B Bach
why can't you clean that poor thing a bit? It's really rather neglected and dusty, dirty, full of old leaves and cobwebs-and how about some oil in the right places? Why doesn't that bother you seeing that lovely old machine so neglected ?..
I will be cleaning it properly, I oiled it up prior to attempting to start it. I have a set of period cast iron wheels to make a proper cart for it, so that I can move it in and out of the shed properly. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
I feel sorry for the engine being butchered by these shade tree know nothings. Just give me the engine before you destroy it
Where are you located mate? Cheers for joining in the discussion :-)
Have some respect or manners ya blowfly
Better luck next time.
Thank you! Yeah think maybe some heat on the intakes would help
Still seems like exhaust valve not quite seating right to me. Rings seem to be fine. Once again would love to own that old girl. I collect them!
part 3 ??? final starting ? :)
cotton swab
Sure hope part 2 goes better than part 1. Maybe ya should git ya a petrol hit or miss. So far it's been a miss entirely. Er ya gonna do a part 3 & maybe a part 4? Since ya did part 1 yer hair has turned grey! Maybe ya need to git out yer shotgun and give 'er a blast.
Haha for part 3 I’ve lost 30 kgs (65 pounds) as well as my hair turning grey, so might finally be fit enough to crank her over fast enough with the injector seal working to finally have her running on camera! Thanks heaps for watching and commenting mate
tool name?
I was winded just watching that. I would have passed out by the end of the video if that was me! Reminds me of starting an old 2 stroke with old gas in the tank. Chris
Sorry it took so long to respond to your comment Chris, took me four days to catch my breath ;-) I will get this old engine running soon! I have a really nice set of cast iron wheels to make a suitable trolley and treat it to a bit of a birthday
My arm is just killing me ,,,lol from just watching you
I hear you, and yes, it was quite the workout. I am hopeful that with correct technique round three will go to me!
Mate keep cranking her when you flick up the compression lever
starter motor battery was getting pretty flat, tried to keep it turning, but the compression is pretty high!
Me and my cousin start my grandpa's with one person on one wheel and the other person on the second wheel
Need to use fire rag as your crank it to harm up the inside. Just idea
Yeah been thinking a candle under intake might do the same thing, but I’m guessing bigger issue will be with the injector. Dry seal or something
not sure it actually is hit n miss. but it seems to have problems either way...
When running it sounds like hit and Miss, by if I understand the point might be that hit and Miss is governed by keeping the exhaust valve open, whereas this engine is governed by the amount of fuel? Will need to examine closely once it's running :-)
I know its only a video without great sound, but what I don't hear is the definitive squeak of the injector, indicating you are Not injecting or injecting very little and certainly not enough. to start
On both videos there is no squeak.
No squeak no start
The smoke you see out the exhaust does not necessarily mean you are getting fuel, certainly not enough.
Make sure the fuel rack on the pump is in the full fuel position before you even start to crank otherwise your wasting time and energy.
Also make sure the rack is not seized and can be pushed back to shut off position using the fuel shut off properly, otherwise if it does start it is likely to run away on ya.
With a good fuel pump and injector and bled properly, YOU WILL HEAR THE SQUEAK
I know that is has sat for 8 years since I last had it running, and the seal around the injector might be bad, my next move is likely to pull the head and service the valves and injector, and check the piston and rings
@@JBFromOZ If you can please film and upload the video, when you disassembly him, i will like to see inside the head from a hit and miss engine... :)
Did you not, get this engine going? I have looked for a part 3
Not yet, sorry! Many priorities have overtaken me however I most definitely want to get footage of the old girl running once again
If that's an automatic inlet valve, is it blocked, or stuck ?
There is a timed injection that is triggered in time with the de-compression pulse and the governor driven speed control (which is the heart of the hit or miss action)
The problem is that it is doing more missing than hitting.
Certainly one of the problems mate :-)
Seriously your going to pop a vain. Get a 2x8, mount a motor with a rubber wheel to it. When you want to start the thing turn on the motor and raise the end of the board until the wheel makes contact. Quit trying to make a faces of death snuff film.
“I swear it wasn’t that hard last time I started it”
@@JBFromOZ I here ya. We're both big fellas and I learned a long time ago if I wanted to see 50... there has to be an easier way. Did you getter running?
Nah mate not yet, need to get some quality time up at the farm for a proper go
You have come this far you may as well do it properly take it apart give it a good clean oil and grease let us all see inside the beast.
it is real life beautiful artwork
Agreed, I have a lead on a nameplate on a similar specification engine, to reproduce and affix to it once rebuilt. I’ve also sourced a set of 4 cast iron wheels to make a rolling cart for it as well
I bet the tank is full of rusty crap ,you dont have to run it on kero almost costs the same as gasoline fill both tanks with super.
If you keep doing the same thing ,NOTHING IS GONNA CHANGE.EXCEPT YOU GONNA FCK YOUR SHOULDER.
very frusterating to watch
Even more frustrating when I couldn’t get it to start!!
Did you Purge the fuel lines of air first
I did purge the lines, in the first video, the fuel was diesel, in the second the fuel was kerosene, both times the fuel line was primed with fuel to the injector
Another good try!
Did you get it going?
Not yet mate, a project to give it a proper once over before any more hack work will fillow
i think you need a new battery !!! lol
More fuel for sure
Will there be a part 3?
Yes there will most definitely be a part 3, I am building my shed on the farm in April, then I will have somewhere on the property to do the job properly, inspect the bore, reseat the valves de coke the head, fix the leak in the fuel tank etc.
GO TO A EXPERT. TRY IT NOT AGHEN
AGHEN ?
Use a TNT .AND BOOOOONNNMMM
Where’s the earth shattering kaboom!
so is there a 3rd part?
There will be one day, gotta get some time up at the farm to go through the injector and get that working right
If you had a piece of burning punk to put in there, small smoldering twine, boom, off she goes mate
I'm figuring a candle under the air inlet would be the go! will try that next time
bad rings
Yeah I am thinking that they are gunned up with crud so on the list, also I’m getting some pressure blow by up the injector so possibly dirt and or corrosion on the injector valve as well
PB blaster and WD-40 will help
I’ve noticed that you stop cranking it over then turn the decompression off. Not saying your doing anything wrong here, but the way I’ve watched others, to crank these engine especially diesel ones you crank it over by hand building up momentum with the decompression engaged once you’ve built the momentum, and when you are ready to start you release the decompression lever while still cranking it over ,and it hopefully starts after all it’s still a diesel it will take some work. Any how the idea here is that the momentum you generate in the flywheel will help push it pass compression once you release the decompression. It basically still needs a hand after you release the decompression. I know it sounds scary with the type of cranking method, but that’s why the crank handle locks in the Direction that it runs and folds into the flywheel the opposite direction. You also kinda have to time the release of the decompression release as well if I’m not mistaken but I’m not sure we’ll this would be at exactly. it makes sense because every time you release the decompression it gets pass compression once but loses all of its energy to continue even after it fires once it did fire at least once I heard it!
I have much to learn for sure I have been looking for a starting manual to understand what the original process was, but have not yet found one
@@JBFromOZ I hope you figure it all out I can not wait to hear it run, next you try and start it see about finding a hairdryer, or hot air gun and have someone blow the hot air into the intake while it’s being turned over.
@@blazing420loud9 yeah even considered using a candle under the intake to get it hotter too!
Why does the title include the word "starting"? There was no starting in either of these crap videos
Thank you for your comments, and I appreciate the time it takes to think through an appropriate expression of your opinion.
I have checked back through both the titles and descriptions of both of these crap videos, and was not able to find the word “starting” anywhere in there.
Would happily add this in there if you like sir, so you can properly feel indignant about my movies, and their misleading titles, please let me know how you would have me proceed
Thank you Abraham G, may the sun shine warmly on your face
@@JBFromOZ my bad. Must have been delusional from boredom
Did you hold the fuel valve open for a bit to charge the cylinder up a bit? Also you should keep cranking over a few compression's instead of letting go of the handle so early, It's a Mcdonald, they never start that easy!
G'day Mate, I was concerned that the opposite might be occurring, if the injector valve was not searing properly and resulting in flooding the cylinder. I found last time that I ended with a squelching or gurgling sound from the exhaust. I had a few decent white puffs early on, so was still encouraged.
Historically (up to 8 + years ago) from memory it started really easily. Doubtless time makes this memory a little difference :-)
you might have to pull the brons injector out an reseat the valve if you think thats the problem. Normally if they charge up too much with fuel they will knock a bit and you just decompress it for a bit until the excess fuel clears.
I'm thinking a quick service of the valve and pulling the piston, clean and inspect the rings, thanks for the input :-)
If you have a blow torch put it in the inlet of the engine and leave for 30seconds to it is hot then tern the engine over with the blow torch still in it then slam the decompretion down and as the engine wil be worm you should have more luck if you don't have a blow torch you can have a oil rag on a melted rod next to the inlet.
I was thinking even just a tea-light candle lit up under it might be the go, those buggers get hot!
A Mapp gun is the go, I have even used them to warm up the intake on diesels that have sat for a few years. With someone cranking and someone else holding the mapp flame into the intake it should heat up the air charge enough to ignite what ever is in there.Diesels fire off at 900C ,so you need plenty of compression or added heat .A relative had a Chinese diesel years ago and that bugger would never fire unless we aimed a flame into the intake port. In the chinese manual it said to hold a piece of burning bamboo....
If that happens to be a power kerosene engine the small tank would be for petrol to start and when hot change over to kero...just saying..
Wish I had that old hit and miss it could run my old washing machine
I would like to see this running some line shaft machinery one day :-)
Looks like it's a miss miss
Try gasoline primer
Well, it was a good cardio workout :) But seriously, I do not really understand how the engine is supposed to work. Apparently it is a diesel engine that runs on kerosene. Very common in the US in the 1920s. So it has to have a glow plug or something to start. That is the first thing I would check. Then the classic diesel failure, the broken or loose piston ring. Good luck to you!
It's a compression engine, no glow plug or spark plug. Theres a decompression valve, which is the lever I drop after giving it a crank. Once it fires, there is a governed injector which feeds a measured amount of fuel into the chamber each cycle. Where the speed is over the governed speed, the injector is not triggered, hence the hit and Miss sound these are famous for
Kerosene was a popular tractor fuel in the 1920s. However most if not all started on gasoline and then switched over. I am surprised you can get kerosene to work like a diesel. I hope you can figure it out.
I did have an International super WD9 tractor, which started on petrol, then ran on diesel. I sold that on a few years ago to someone who wanted to restore it back to former glory!
Piladies at its best lol
t much like work
rustymotor
Nope, still not enough compression. Not even close. Myself I'm certain I'm hearing a tonne of blowby hissing under the crank cover. The way this engine was stuck when you started tinkering on it tells me the rings are either stuck in their grooves, scarred or broken. With proper compression on this size engine you should barely be able to turn it past compression with both hands. It really really really can't be hissing much at all when going past compression. You need to take the head off and service the valves. You also need to take the piston out and work on the rings. AND in my experience starting an oil or diesel engine on kerosene fule or diesel fule are both equally EASY when the engine is properly functioning.
Will be very useful to pull the piston and check over the rings, does the piston come out the crank end? Or out past the head?
@@JBFromOZ the piston can come out either end, just be sure not to scratch the cylinder while working in there. You might as well take the head off to work on the valves and try letting the piston out that end. It may not want to come out the head end if the cylinder has worn, there may be a slight step inside the cylinder from the wear, in such case the piston will have to come out the crank end. Once the piston is out be extremely careful of the rings as they are cast iron and very brittle. Time and patience should be priority with this type of work, forcing and rushing will only succeed in either damaging or breaking irreplaceable parts. Again use caution during reassembly, get another pair of hands to install the piston. Just a suggestion, don't take the injector or pump apart unless you are very sure of what you are doing.
Thanks Mr Laporte, I will have this in mind when I finally get time to do a proper job on the engine. It should be possible to check for a ridge on the cylinder from wear with the head removed.
I am very keen to locate a manual or parts book for this engine, to learn more about it before I pull it open
@@JBFromOZ yes you will be able to check for cylinder wear with the head off. If you look around youtube there are many videos of people working on the old engines. There's a little asian fella who made quite a few videos fixing diesel farm engines, his videos give a decent concise overview of many engine repair operations.
th-cam.com/channels/_Dw_v8N8-be6S--sW9tCOQ.html
läuft er schon ?
I just wasted 10 minutes of my life. Thanks for nothing !!!
G'day Ronald! i'm sad that you short changed me 3 minutes of watch time, plus missed part one entirely! there is so much more of your life you could have wasted mate! thanks for watching and commenting, hopefully we can get her started next time ....
I lost 20 minutes. Watched the first one also
Sounds like the compression is leaking past one of the valves. It is spinning over too easily by hand if the compression wasn`t leaking somewhere.
Yeah there was definitely an exhaust valve leak when I first went to start it, I was able to get the valve to seat by twisting the valve from the stem end while it sat against the seat, after which compression improved greatly. Next issue I believe will be the injector not pumping fuel, others have suggested when these dry out they stick and don’t inject properly.
Hit and miss??? I think you missed, but you did get your exercise for the day. If that is a diesel maybe you need more compression??
Yeah thinking that there is a little blow-by past the rings, might need to pull the piston and clean the rings before I try again
JBFromOZ there is a company in SA called JP Pistons. They will make any size rings, just send them all the necessary dimensions
I'll start with a clean I reckon, it may just have a bit of rust or crud caught up in there