Over here in Idaho everyone uses simplex forms or Simon forms for basements. When I saw your video about how you guys use regular inch and 1/8 standing upright with regular wedges I jumped up and did a lil dance because I knew I had just saved a bunch of money on renting forms. I have actually poured two basements since then using your system. Thank you for the knowledge.
I find your videos to be interesting, to the point, and very informative, somewhat like an elevator pitch less all the sales mumbo-jumbo. Coming from an engineer who also does a good amount of work in residential construction, I really enjoy these videos. They're one of my favorite. Thank you.
I’ve been pouring this way for 20 years. Much more efficient than setting forms on ground and pounding grade nails. It also allows us to add calcium or high early and pour it dry so we can strip the forms and start setting wall forms the same day. Keep up the good work
Typical assumption is 1500-2000 psf, for native undisturbed soil Nearly all soil will over perform that assumption. Coupled with residential construction is not tremendously demanding structurally. It's not likely to be a necessity to performance.
My old boss had a laser like that. It was off by 1/2 inch in the span of 50 ft. Sadly we didn't notice it for 2 houses. Unfortunately it wasn't adjustable. He had to fork out an additional 400 bucks for the one he has now.
More so than the high point. Terrain slopes very and high and low points. Check with your city for the minimum depth for the freezing level below surface. Your footer should be just below this line to prevent contraction and cracking of concrete during freezing conditions.
If I was building my own house my min footing depth would be 10" and min of 10" horizontal on either side of the vertical basement wall. I would rather pour a one time an oversize footing to minimize settling of the house in the future. Overkill is under rated
In my state the common regular builds houses here are footing stem and slab rarely monolithic but there here, the footing are dug up with a 16inch wide bucket minimum 20 inches deep then stem wall 6 or 8 inches wide and usually 16 inches tall and higher then slab
@@djhago3123 Now that is a proper footer. I know German house are built to specifications unheard of in the US, they are also built out of brick/masonry to last forever
@@abrhaamaladenovich-zf3zy that's mostly under slabs though, right? I don't know if I've ever seen foam under a wall footing. (I'm in a temperate area, like OP, fwiw)
@@kevinfarrell329 up here in Northern WA we have to insulate our footings with foam and do a vapor barrier of plastic, compaction is usually on gravel here
You're saying it's less work than digging out the soil and making trenches. And you also mentioned that it would be cheaper. I'd love to see the math on that. I get that wood is reusable and I would be cheaper with less sand use. But, I simply can't see that I would be cheaper.
Great work, much more efficient than plenty of crews I’ve seen
You guys are fantastic
Over here in Idaho everyone uses simplex forms or Simon forms for basements. When I saw your video about how you guys use regular inch and 1/8 standing upright with regular wedges I jumped up and did a lil dance because I knew I had just saved a bunch of money on renting forms. I have actually poured two basements since then using your system. Thank you for the knowledge.
over here in alabama thats all thats we use are 2 by's for forming
@@rileywhite5091which is good, if you ever have to build larger walls, that's where shap-tie systems come in real handy.
Brilliant response to the question of family and settling down. Also brilliant framing on chapters of life.
I would honestly love this job! Looks like a great career.
I find your videos to be interesting, to the point, and very informative, somewhat like an elevator pitch less all the sales mumbo-jumbo. Coming from an engineer who also does a good amount of work in residential construction, I really enjoy these videos. They're one of my favorite. Thank you.
I’ve been pouring this way for 20 years. Much more efficient than setting forms on ground and pounding grade nails. It also allows us to add calcium or high early and pour it dry so we can strip the forms and start setting wall forms the same day. Keep up the good work
Here in Scotland we dig founds and use the ground as a shutter
Dumb.
Do you compact the gravel before putting in your forms?
Typical assumption is 1500-2000 psf, for native undisturbed soil Nearly all soil will over perform that assumption. Coupled with residential construction is not tremendously demanding structurally. It's not likely to be a necessity to performance.
outstanding lesson. Thankyou
Are you divorcing fastfoot?
Missle lock I am using that one
My old boss had a laser like that. It was off by 1/2 inch in the span of 50 ft. Sadly we didn't notice it for 2 houses.
Unfortunately it wasn't adjustable. He had to fork out an additional 400 bucks for the one he has now.
Always check it first.
Definitely worth spending money on quality
@@AwesomeFramers we always do check it first... Now. 😃
What’s a good method for checking the accuracy of?
Pipes are looking good! …. “He must work out!”
lmaoo bruh he does look good !!!!
Great tool
Saw you do it but you forgot to mention to put the laser reader as close to the stake as you can
Nice wish I was younger and gain your skill set knowledge
So who laid out and set the forms?
We set it to laser as we go. Is there any difference in work?
More so than the high point. Terrain slopes very and high and low points. Check with your city for the minimum depth for the freezing level below surface. Your footer should be just below this line to prevent contraction and cracking of concrete during freezing conditions.
Yup, f boards can be sloped, yet level. If they were running down a 10° grade, they can still be level!!
The rodman!
Use 2 by 10 just snap a line put grade nails done no need to fill space under form to keep concrete in form
Yep that works. We will use up the 2x6 forms during framing
Nice
Your building code allows reusing the forms for the actual construction of the structure? I thought that went out in the 1960s.
The IRC does not prohibit them from being used. 1 time use in this case.
looks good to me.
How do you make sure that it's square?
You talking bout the footing corners? Normally won’t matter if they’re a bit out of square as long as all the footings land where they should
If I was building my own house my min footing depth would be 10" and min of 10" horizontal on either side of the vertical basement wall. I would rather pour a one time an oversize footing to minimize settling of the house in the future. Overkill is under rated
Customers WILL SELL this house. If it's your forever home then sure
In my state the common regular builds houses here are footing stem and slab rarely monolithic but there here, the footing are dug up with a 16inch wide bucket minimum 20 inches deep then stem wall 6 or 8 inches wide and usually 16 inches tall and higher then slab
In Ireland the minimum is 1ft deep by 3ft wide on external walls and you can go less on internal walls still be 1ft deep
@@djhago3123 Now that is a proper footer. I know German house are built to specifications unheard of in the US, they are also built out of brick/masonry to last forever
We have to use 2x10
why is the footing so thin ?
Thin? Its deeper than the structural calculations show it needs to be.
@@AwesomeFramers Interesting .
Grade should be done last.
Not how to do it at all wrapped or uneven boards hang a string line and set it a little high you can tap each steak down where it’s perfectly straight
This is a footing for a garage
Wait wait wait.... sta-bee-la? Have I been saying it wrong my whole life? I've always heard and said sta-bill-ah...😅
Yep, I visited them in Germany
Good to know! I’ve always said it the same wrong way as you.
@@HenryDoohickeyII we're American so sta-bill-ah it remains..
@@jamesrussell6870 it’s hard to speak the correct phonetics of a language you know nothing about.
They pour directly onto the dirt?
yep. Many locations in WA state require firm undisturbed SOIL. Get into gravel or other compacts and there's all sorts of requirements
And obviously it's not topsoil, they scraped down to undisturbed base soil.
somwtimes youll have gravel base beds and a lot of the time they will insulate below the slab with plastic
@@abrhaamaladenovich-zf3zy that's mostly under slabs though, right?
I don't know if I've ever seen foam under a wall footing. (I'm in a temperate area, like OP, fwiw)
@@kevinfarrell329 up here in Northern WA we have to insulate our footings with foam and do a vapor barrier of plastic, compaction is usually on gravel here
Pro
You're saying it's less work than digging out the soil and making trenches. And you also mentioned that it would be cheaper. I'd love to see the math on that. I get that wood is reusable and I would be cheaper with less sand use. But, I simply can't see that I would be cheaper.