As a Trim Carpenter, I always appreciate a great use of plinths. Most builders won’t even consider them because they’re too busy trying to cut costs or worse, don’t have an eye for style. Great info and explanation.
Great explanation of how to use the plinth blocks in various molding eras/styles. I always enjoy seeing how you can cut down or change various trims to create a different size and match the trim to specific situations.
Well thank you for the information and helping me to be better educated with the proper names. I knew what it did and stood for but now I don't have to say " it's a block of wood "
I was taught never to use a plinth block with taper trim only symmetrical trim to keep reveals the same , to avoid the base cap projecting out , we would use a backband trim , it would not be sitting on a plinth block, thanks again great video
The height of the plinth block is determined by the height of the base molding plus the amount of reveal of the base molding against the side of the plinth block. When adding a back band to a casing, the plinth block width has to increase also.
Another fantastically informative & enjoyable video Brent. Again, so happy Richard had featured you on his Channel!! Overjoyed to see your Channel growth also. Hoping all is well Bud, Dirty Jersey out!!
Something I think should be considered is that when mopping a floor, it’s easier to get the dirt out when there is a straight line at the bottom, vs all of the curvatures of the casing at the bottom.
Great information! Thanks for sharing. So interesting how something so seemingly minor like the height difference between the federal and Georgian plinth block can make such a difference in the feeling of the door/ room. Quick question- when you say you usually don’t exceed 6” for your base, are you including the base cap in that measurement?
Thank you for the great explanation. Question… My door trims (1888 Victorian) have plinth blocks on the bottom. There js a similar piece on the top. Does the top piece have a name?
Brent, I am intrigued... Is your personal home contemporary or is it an older style with fantastic moldings and trim ? With so much passion for this, it would be amazing if you have the energy left for your own place :)
I’m really getting fed up now. Every ruddy video; without fail; they are all so interesting and well explained. We don’t have anything like Windsor One in the UK (I.e. made from solid timber); we are able to get some mouldings made from MDF which, for painted work, is okay; nearly. I’m using so,E of it for the supports for a plate rail which is going on top of the painted panelling I’m doing. The painted panels are only in a rear service corridor where light is important. For the other rooms, I’m using European oak; I’ll make those mouldings myself on the router table and build them up where needed. All of the door casings will feature plinth blocks and headers (as Brent showed in another video). I’m asking about plinth blocks used in skirtings. I visited a house l probably National Trust but cannot, for the life of me, remember where. They had tall skirtings and in every internal corner there was a plinth block - but only 2” x 2”; slightly higher than the skirting and with a chamfered top. Now that seems an interesting way to get around coping the skirting but they also had these corner blocks on the external corners. Can anyone help me with any information or ideas if you have seen something similar? I remember that it impressed me but would love to go back (if I could remember where to) and just make sure my memory isn’t playing up. Again. Unbelievable. I sent this comment, searched and immediately was directed to the UK business “skirtingboardsdirect” and it’s the first time I’ve seen real oak skirting mouldings in the UK. Plus they feature those internal and external corner blocks that I was talking about. Apparently, they are called turret blocks.
Plinth blocks are nice it they feature a radius or cove on the outer edges, or a prominent molding on the top. Just a block at the bottom of a door casing, without embellished edges, in my opinion, appears like an incomplete afterthought.
Is it “legal” to put a Craftsman style headpiece over a doorway using standard tapered casing and no plinth blocks?… -Can I use a craftsman style header with tapered casing at all?
I recently installed plinth blocks on interior doors. The plinth is stopping the door from opening much beyond 90 degrees. Is there a remedy for this? I feel like I'm missing something.
I don't see any shoe or quarter round on any of your photos, but they might have been some on the Victorian drawings. Is shoe/quarter round not historically correct or doesn't belong with a plinth?
Thanks for asking. Shoe mold is rare historically. I find it gains the most traction in the 70's and 80's. We try to keep shoe mold out of our jobs. Only if there are large gaps that need to be covered do we add a shoe mold. I'm going to do a video on that soon. Thanks!
As a Trim Carpenter, I always appreciate a great use of plinths. Most builders won’t even consider them because they’re too busy trying to cut costs or worse, don’t have an eye for style. Great info and explanation.
Thanks for watching and your insight.
I enjoyed the background information. I like how the plinth adds to the strong look of the trim.
Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it!
Great explanation of how to use the plinth blocks in various molding eras/styles. I always enjoy seeing how you can cut down or change various trims to create a different size and match the trim to specific situations.
Cool. Glad it was helpful!
I'm really happy that I found Brent through Finish Carpentry TV. You two make awesome videos together.
Awesome! Thank you! Welcome aboard.
Well thank you for the information and helping me to be better educated with the proper names. I knew what it did and stood for but now I don't have to say " it's a block of wood "
LOL! Good. Thanks for watching.
I was taught never to use a plinth block with taper trim only symmetrical trim to keep reveals the same , to avoid the base cap projecting out , we would use a backband trim , it would not be sitting on a plinth block, thanks again great video
Thanks for sharing.
I am so enjoying watching these and learning a lot it's helping me become a better Craftsman
So glad to hear it. Cheers.
Thanks! This is a really well put together video full of detail with a higher level of editing and camera quality to most stuff out there.
Glad you enjoyed it! THX
Always learn something new when I watch your videos thanks for sharing
So nice of you. Thanks
The height of the plinth block is determined by the height of the base molding plus the amount of reveal of the base molding against the side
of the plinth block. When adding a back band to a casing, the plinth block width has to increase also.
Thanks for sharing. Historically, it wasn't always solved that way.
More great information. Thank you for the explaing the historical background and evolution of plinth blocks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks.
So glad I found this channel.
Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Excellent video
Glad you liked it. Thx
Thanks for the education. Great content.
Thanks for watching!
Terrific explanation!
Thanks!
Another fantastically informative & enjoyable video Brent. Again, so happy Richard had featured you on his Channel!! Overjoyed to see your Channel growth also. Hoping all is well Bud, Dirty Jersey out!!
Awesome, thank you! Thanks for commenting and watching. Cheers!
Very helpful, fantastic!!
Glad it was helpful! Thx
Jeez you really do have a video on almost everything nowadays! Loving the explanation as always, thanks!
Glad you like them!
Something I think should be considered is that when mopping a floor, it’s easier to get the dirt out when there is a straight line at the bottom, vs all of the curvatures of the casing at the bottom.
That is a form vs function approach. Thx.
@@BrentHull Should be form AND function! 😆
Thank you for the very informative video!
Glad it was helpful!
Great information! Thanks for sharing. So interesting how something so seemingly minor like the height difference between the federal and Georgian plinth block can make such a difference in the feeling of the door/ room. Quick question- when you say you usually don’t exceed 6” for your base, are you including the base cap in that measurement?
Yes I am! Thanks.
Thank you for the great explanation. Question… My door trims (1888 Victorian) have plinth blocks on the bottom. There js a similar piece on the top. Does the top piece have a name?
Typically called a header block. THx
Brent, I am intrigued... Is your personal home contemporary or is it an older style with fantastic moldings and trim ? With so much passion for this, it would be amazing if you have the energy left for your own place :)
Haha, ironically, I'm in a 1962 builder grade ranch. I've upgraded the moldings but nothing over the top.
I’m really getting fed up now. Every ruddy video; without fail; they are all so interesting and well explained. We don’t have anything like Windsor One in the UK (I.e. made from solid timber); we are able to get some mouldings made from MDF which, for painted work, is okay; nearly. I’m using so,E of it for the supports for a plate rail which is going on top of the painted panelling I’m doing. The painted panels are only in a rear service corridor where light is important. For the other rooms, I’m using European oak; I’ll make those mouldings myself on the router table and build them up where needed. All of the door casings will feature plinth blocks and headers (as Brent showed in another video).
I’m asking about plinth blocks used in skirtings. I visited a house l probably National Trust but cannot, for the life of me, remember where. They had tall skirtings and in every internal corner there was a plinth block - but only 2” x 2”; slightly higher than the skirting and with a chamfered top. Now that seems an interesting way to get around coping the skirting but they also had these corner blocks on the external corners.
Can anyone help me with any information or ideas if you have seen something similar? I remember that it impressed me but would love to go back (if I could remember where to) and just make sure my memory isn’t playing up. Again.
Unbelievable. I sent this comment, searched and immediately was directed to the UK business “skirtingboardsdirect” and it’s the first time I’ve seen real oak skirting mouldings in the UK. Plus they feature those internal and external corner blocks that I was talking about. Apparently, they are called turret blocks.
Awesome. Thanks for sharing.
What is the 1892 book you are refering on the victorian plinth blocks?
Millwork catalog available through Dover Publications. 1892 was the first year that catalogs came out.
Thank you
You're welcome
Plinth blocks are nice it they feature a radius or cove on the outer edges, or a prominent molding on the top. Just a block at the bottom of a door casing, without embellished edges, in my opinion, appears like an incomplete afterthought.
ok
Is it “legal” to put a Craftsman style headpiece over a doorway using standard tapered casing and no plinth blocks?…
-Can I use a craftsman style header with tapered casing at all?
I would give it a shot for sure. My guess, if executed well, is that it would look great. Send me a pic if you get it worked out. Thanks.
@@BrentHull tried it… didn’t like it… went traditional with 1x4and plinth blocks
I recently installed plinth blocks on interior doors. The plinth is stopping the door from opening much beyond 90 degrees. Is there a remedy for this? I feel like I'm missing something.
That can happen. They may need to be held off the jamb more than 1/4", sometimes deeper hinges help. Good luck.
@@BrentHull Thanks
Did they use Plinth Blocks during the gothic/tudor era?
Yes, but they could be funky. Non-traditional But yes for sure!
I don't see any shoe or quarter round on any of your photos, but they might have been some on the Victorian drawings. Is shoe/quarter round not historically correct or doesn't belong with a plinth?
Thanks for asking. Shoe mold is rare historically. I find it gains the most traction in the 70's and 80's. We try to keep shoe mold out of our jobs. Only if there are large gaps that need to be covered do we add a shoe mold. I'm going to do a video on that soon. Thanks!
I really don’t think about the inside of my house this much.
haha. ok thx.