you are so perfect i am learning, completely the sences i used. you just identified all of my piles! so far i am loving every one of your videos! completely open teacher. i adore your pride and witt. God bless you.
I will have to try the file and utility knife test tomorrow. I have a small engine frame that I'm pretty sure is stainless but just in case I'm going to test it. I need to modify it a little and I'm going to have someone weld it.
I like your stainless steel versus aluminum video. The problem I have is knowing the difference between regular Steel and stainless steel. I know regular Steel is magnetic but sometimes stainless steel is magnetic and sometimes not. Sometimes it is very shiny and sometimes a little more dull. I'm sure a lot of stainless steel has gotten past me. And it almost seems like scrap yards try to give you regular metal price 4 stainless if they can. They won't help and point it out to you is what I mean. I really wish you did a video on stainless steel versus steel. Thanks love the videos. Matthew
An indention has to do with the beginning of a paragraph. I think you mean to say "indentation". I just googled it. I have a harder time differentiating cast aluminum from pot metal. Thanks!
Aluminium radiators are their own grade, it is best practice to remove the plastic ends if you can, but most scrap yards will accept them either way :)
If you are having trouble telling the difference between ss and anodized aluminum, you can test the continuity. Anodized alum will not hold a current. It is too hard. However that is only true on the anodized surface. So if you cut into it and test it on exposed surfaces you should get a reading
Really enjoy your videos brother. You give it honest and I have time for that. Don't have time for the bullshit like all the others I've watched! Finally a video I can honestly say. I've learned something throughout the entire clip. Really appreciate it. I have watched your videos, but, how much does the standard central AC unit outside unit and air handler bring in value wise in scrap? Would really appreciate your time in answering this as I have 15 complete outdoor with indoor units. Lots and lots of work so far. I don't mind hard honest work, just need it to pay off brother. ML&R
Rocky Rock, I'm glad you like the videos! I have so many more I want to do, and I promise they are coming. Last month and this month have been extremely busy for us, but soon I will have some more! You have a great question, but it is a little difficult to answer however I'll give it my best shot. Each unit is different, and the commodities market is constantly changing. It all depends on how it was manufactured, this determines the different recoveries (pounds) of each item. You can have two units that have the same outside dimensions but bring completely different recoveries. If the Al/Cu radiator is 10 lbs heavier in one of them, that's roughly another $10.00 right off the bat. If it helps, I always tear down EVERY unit because I think it is worth it. I have two scrapyards, but I still scrap on the side because I just love to do it, but I also have five kids I have to support! Maybe I can make a video where I tear a couple down and show the value of each one individually to give people an idea. But for now, I will break down an imaginary unit in my head and give you the breakdown based on Bracken Recyclings prices for today. Remember these are just guessing numbers and do not apply to all outdoor units! Hope it helps! AC Breakdown #2 Copper 5lbs @ $1.88= $9.40 brass 1lbs @ $1.25= $1.25 Al/Cu radiator 48lbs @ $1.00= $48.00 electric motor 16lbs @ $0.12= $1.92 sealed unit (compressor) 65lbs @ $0.08= $5.20 Iron 50lbs @ $0.04= $2.00 TOTAL = $67.77 There will be a few other things but those are the main items. Remember this is just an imaginary unit I created in my head!
Bracken Recycling Thank you very much Sir. Here was the total dollar amount I got off of 11 broken down units plus air handlers. $473.00. Not bad at all for 3 days work. 11 units al/cu rads equaled 230 lbs
Hey braken! Im new to scrap recycling and work at a scrap yard. Ive been having trouble identifying aluminum 5052 and aluminum clips, and have got poor training. So ive been trying to do research of my own. Also seek knowledge on whats worth seperating and grinding off in order to put the non ferrous metals in designated boxes. I hope you see this comment and i have learned alot from previous videos and want to thank you for going in depth in your videos.
Hey Rick, great question! Look at the side or edge of the plate (the part you would measure if you were trying to find the thickness of the plate). When you look at it you will notice two different grain textures (almost like someone took two different plates and glued them together). If it looks like that then it’s 5052. If it looks entirely the same, then it is most likely 6061. I wish I could take a picture and show you because at first it might be really hard to tell there is a difference. I wish I would have covered it in my video but now maybe I’ll do another video just on that! Hope I explained that well enough!👈🤠👉
Hey Bob, good question. I hope you don't think I'm lazy but I'm going to copy and paste a response I gave another viewer on another video. Just because it's so long! I'll go ahead and give you some info so you don't have to wait! The most common stainless you will see bought at a scrapyard is 304 and 316. In today's market, a yard can get around $0.15 to $0.20 more for 316 when they sell it. They both contain chromium and nickel (just different amounts), but 316 has molybdenum, the molybdenum is used to help prevent corrosion from chlorides. The only way to tell the difference is to shoot it with an analyzing gun or just to have experience in knowing what products they make out of 316. Not every scrap yard is going to pass the extra money to their customers for a couple of reasons. Reasons like, they might not have a way of differentiating the two, it would take them to long to collect enough 316 to bale or box by itself (in this case they would just put it in their 304), they might not have a buyer near them that will take mixed loads (meaning most of their packages they load on a truck are 304, and a couple are 316). So if they had to wait 6 months before they could produce 44 thousand lbs (that's a whole truckload), they would have that money out of their cash flow, and they would also be gambling with the commodities market. 300 series stainless has nickel in it, and they are non-magnetic. 400 series stainless does NOT have nickel in it, and it is magnetic. Most scrap yards (including mine) are just going to throw this in their tin pile. There is just not a big market for it. To give you an idea catalytic converter shells from vehicles are mostly made out of 409 stainless, and they have a market value of about $0.15 to $0.18 per pound. But that's only going to be good for someone who actually refines catalytic converters because they are left with the shell. The best thing to do if a scrap yard buys your stainless as 400 is to watch where they end up taking it if you can. They very well might try blending with their 304. This doesn't mean they won't get dinged on it from the buyer, but they might feel it's worth a shot. They don't have much to loose if they bought it as tin from you. But I think it's only fair in that scenario to give you a little extra on it! This wouldn't happen at one of my yards. We establish long-term relationships with all of our buyers, so we don't try stuff like that. We work just like I advise my customers, the easier you are to work with, and the more compliant your scrap is, the better price you'll get! Sorry about the novel but I like talking about scrap metal!
Why don't you just hit it with a grinder that's what I do but I can tell the weight difference most of the time stainless is non-magnetic most of the time but it's Sparks and a grinder and aluminum Copper Brass does not Spark
Thank you for showing me a different way to tell the difference between aluminum and stainless
Pedro, you're welcome! And thank you for watching. I hope our future videos will teach you more!
you are so perfect
i am learning, completely the sences i used. you just identified all of my piles! so far i am loving every one of your videos!
completely open teacher.
i adore your pride and witt.
God bless you.
Great video bro handy tips for every scrap dog!!
Love your videos. Very informative and enjoyable to watch.
Thank you so much, Earl!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, very interesting!
I'm glad you like it. Hope it helps you out. I have more coming it's just been a very busy month so far!
Great vid and very informative I like to use the knife test
love your videos!
Thank you so much!
Good video Thanks!
I will have to try the file and utility knife test tomorrow. I have a small engine frame that I'm pretty sure is stainless but just in case I'm going to test it. I need to modify it a little and I'm going to have someone weld it.
I like your stainless steel versus aluminum video. The problem I have is knowing the difference between regular Steel and stainless steel. I know regular Steel is magnetic but sometimes stainless steel is magnetic and sometimes not. Sometimes it is very shiny and sometimes a little more dull. I'm sure a lot of stainless steel has gotten past me. And it almost seems like scrap yards try to give you regular metal price 4 stainless if they can. They won't help and point it out to you is what I mean. I really wish you did a video on stainless steel versus steel. Thanks love the videos. Matthew
Love the ryobi 18 volt tools...the grinder tho.dang
Will an aluminum magnet work just as well on stainless steel ?
An indention has to do with the beginning of a paragraph. I think you mean to say "indentation". I just googled it. I have a harder time differentiating cast aluminum from pot metal. Thanks!
As I always say you can't find it grind it ! Great video
Joe, I'm going to start using that!
Bracken Recycling Buy all means man the grinder is one of my useful tools!
do i put rad alum in its own bundle?
or is there another listing that fits best?
Aluminium radiators are their own grade, it is best practice to remove the plastic ends if you can, but most scrap yards will accept them either way :)
Thanks
what kind of torch is that
If you are having trouble telling the difference between ss and anodized aluminum, you can test the continuity. Anodized alum will not hold a current. It is too hard. However that is only true on the anodized surface. So if you cut into it and test it on exposed surfaces you should get a reading
Really enjoy your videos brother. You give it honest and I have time for that. Don't have time for the bullshit like all the others I've watched! Finally a video I can honestly say. I've learned something throughout the entire clip. Really appreciate it. I have watched your videos, but, how much does the standard central AC unit outside unit and air handler bring in value wise in scrap? Would really appreciate your time in answering this as I have 15 complete outdoor with indoor units. Lots and lots of work so far. I don't mind hard honest work, just need it to pay off brother. ML&R
Rocky Rock, I'm glad you like the videos! I have so many more I want to do, and I promise they are coming. Last month and this month have been extremely busy for us, but soon I will have some more! You have a great question, but it is a little difficult to answer however I'll give it my best shot. Each unit is different, and the commodities market is constantly changing. It all depends on how it was manufactured, this determines the different recoveries (pounds) of each item. You can have two units that have the same outside dimensions but bring completely different recoveries. If the Al/Cu radiator is 10 lbs heavier in one of them, that's roughly another $10.00 right off the bat. If it helps, I always tear down EVERY unit because I think it is worth it. I have two scrapyards, but I still scrap on the side because I just love to do it, but I also have five kids I have to support! Maybe I can make a video where I tear a couple down and show the value of each one individually to give people an idea. But for now, I will break down an imaginary unit in my head and give you the breakdown based on Bracken Recyclings prices for today. Remember these are just guessing numbers and do not apply to all outdoor units! Hope it helps!
AC Breakdown
#2 Copper 5lbs @ $1.88= $9.40
brass 1lbs @ $1.25= $1.25
Al/Cu radiator 48lbs @ $1.00= $48.00
electric motor 16lbs @ $0.12= $1.92
sealed unit (compressor) 65lbs @ $0.08= $5.20
Iron 50lbs @ $0.04= $2.00
TOTAL = $67.77
There will be a few other things but those are the main items. Remember this is just an imaginary unit I created in my head!
Bracken Recycling Thank you very much Sir. Here was the total dollar amount I got off of 11 broken down units plus air handlers. $473.00. Not bad at all for 3 days work. 11 units al/cu rads equaled 230 lbs
Hey braken! Im new to scrap recycling and work at a scrap yard. Ive been having trouble identifying aluminum 5052 and aluminum clips, and have got poor training. So ive been trying to do research of my own. Also seek knowledge on whats worth seperating and grinding off in order to put the non ferrous metals in designated boxes. I hope you see this comment and i have learned alot from previous videos and want to thank you for going in depth in your videos.
Hey Rick, great question! Look at the side or edge of the plate (the part you would measure if you were trying to find the thickness of the plate). When you look at it you will notice two different grain textures (almost like someone took two different plates and glued them together). If it looks like that then it’s 5052. If it looks entirely the same, then it is most likely 6061. I wish I could take a picture and show you because at first it might be really hard to tell there is a difference. I wish I would have covered it in my video but now maybe I’ll do another video just on that! Hope I explained that well enough!👈🤠👉
Rick Sanson
instraaaamental to the extreme
amaysing
9:57 damn looks shooting game like call of duty :D
is stainless magnetic?
Hey Bob, good question. I hope you don't think I'm lazy but I'm going to copy and paste a response I gave another viewer on another video. Just because it's so long!
I'll go ahead and give you some info so you don't have to wait! The most common stainless you will see bought at a scrapyard is 304 and 316. In today's market, a yard can get around $0.15 to $0.20 more for 316 when they sell it. They both contain chromium and nickel (just different amounts), but 316 has molybdenum, the molybdenum is used to help prevent corrosion from chlorides. The only way to tell the difference is to shoot it with an analyzing gun or just to have experience in knowing what products they make out of 316. Not every scrap yard is going to pass the extra money to their customers for a couple of reasons. Reasons like, they might not have a way of differentiating the two, it would take them to long to collect enough 316 to bale or box by itself (in this case they would just put it in their 304), they might not have a buyer near them that will take mixed loads (meaning most of their packages they load on a truck are 304, and a couple are 316). So if they had to wait 6 months before they could produce 44 thousand lbs (that's a whole truckload), they would have that money out of their cash flow, and they would also be gambling with the commodities market. 300 series stainless has nickel in it, and they are non-magnetic. 400 series stainless does NOT have nickel in it, and it is magnetic. Most scrap yards (including mine) are just going to throw this in their tin pile. There is just not a big market for it. To give you an idea catalytic converter shells from vehicles are mostly made out of 409 stainless, and they have a market value of about $0.15 to $0.18 per pound. But that's only going to be good for someone who actually refines catalytic converters because they are left with the shell. The best thing to do if a scrap yard buys your stainless as 400 is to watch where they end up taking it if you can. They very well might try blending with their 304. This doesn't mean they won't get dinged on it from the buyer, but they might feel it's worth a shot. They don't have much to loose if they bought it as tin from you. But I think it's only fair in that scenario to give you a little extra on it! This wouldn't happen at one of my yards. We establish long-term relationships with all of our buyers, so we don't try stuff like that. We work just like I advise my customers, the easier you are to work with, and the more compliant your scrap is, the better price you'll get! Sorry about the novel but I like talking about scrap metal!
Wow...what a great explanation. Thanks for all of the unique and informative videos you are posting. They are of great value!!!
You're welcome Bob, I'll try to keep them coming when I can!
Why don't you just hit it with a grinder that's what I do but I can tell the weight difference most of the time stainless is non-magnetic most of the time but it's Sparks and a grinder and aluminum Copper Brass does not Spark
Indentation
Easier way: One's not magnetic, the other is also not magnetic
Some SS alloys are magnetic