Absolutely love this extruder. It's so light. It's so easy to print. It's so easy to put together and take apart. What more could I ask for? Thank you Annex Engineering!
I've been thinking about this mounting of the hobbed extrusion gears; about getting the alignment right for the filament path. With community or end user printed parts, I get the need for ample adjustment to accommodate variance in print dimensional accuracy. But for production parts, especially with fairly thick axles but moderate torque exposure (like here) - I don't quite get why they don't just drill and tap the axles (and pins if beefy enough) where the grub screws should go. Yes it adds extra production work, but I'm thinking that having the extruder hobbed gear(s) only mountable in one tightly controlled fixed position - would be more than made up for in costs saved on customer support, by closing that avenue of user assembly error. Am I off track here? Missing something? I know with open design dual gears, you can loosen up the grub screws so that both gears can roll and move farily freely, then run some straight filament back and forth through the gears to make them _sorta_ self-align. But most solid extruders the last few years are almost exclusively enclosed units, so you can't get at the grub screws without relieving tension on the gears and opening it up, which has a high chance of them shifting position.
Thanks for posting this! My motor works fine outside of the assembly but not when mounted. It might (but not always) move the gears a bit, and then jam. Mostly it just jams. No filament is loaded. Got the trianglelabs kit and printed the parts with ABS on an Ultimaker S5 if that helps. Any thoughts?
Very minimalist but I can still see some areas for weight saving. Maybe even an adapter for a flex drive solution and eliminate the motor weight as well. Couldn't really get to judge how well the feed from fillament gears to heat break is going to deal with flexible fillaments and loading as I couldn't see to well.
that flex drive is actually going to add more moving weight to the system. cable weight / 2 would be about what the effective weight the toolhead would actually see when all is said and done.
hello thanks for video . I have a problem with mine . TPU slide when extruding . And even when the wheel is tight, the TPU slips. I can even get it out by hand by pulling lightly. On the other hand, no money with pla petg and other hard filament . do you know what could be the problem? Because I disassembled several times and there are not 50 ways. I put a piece of filament to center the gears but it the same problem . Thanks
awesome design. I'm wandering into corexy and direct drive territory and can't wait to test this out on my first corexy build. May I know if a standard bmg extruder (clone) has all the necessary components to build this?
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any help you can offer me
@Ty Marvin thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
What are the plastic parts made out of? I print Nylon Carbon Composite and ABS only, so; that Sherpa Mini has to be able to print at 260° in an atmospheric temperature of 150° constant. Can it do it, how much does it cost, and what is it made out of?
The plastic gear will very likely not work at 150C. I would recommend finding a replacement metal gear and making the printed parts out of a high temperature CF nylon. Also you would need water cool the stepper but you probably already do that
@@Olof123 @Piter Parker is right, the print quality is terrible and not something they should post. No need to get so aggressive about it, is there? Also wanted to add that this guy REALLY should clean is hands before doing a closeup assembly including his hands, disgusting....
Works perfect for me! I also designed a carriage for my 3d printer ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904287 ) and i print all kinds of filament with that, TPU, PETG, ABS and exotics like carbon filaments. Thanks man!
![Fc ครับ ขอแนะนำให้รู้จักกับ "น้องเปียโน" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HQU6Q_IYTLo/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely love this extruder.
It's so light.
It's so easy to print.
It's so easy to put together and take apart.
What more could I ask for?
Thank you Annex Engineering!
That total mass (aka weight) is phenomenal. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Thank u so much for uploading this video
Ah yes, racing colors. Makes it faster I heard
I've been thinking about this mounting of the hobbed extrusion gears; about getting the alignment right for the filament path. With community or end user printed parts, I get the need for ample adjustment to accommodate variance in print dimensional accuracy.
But for production parts, especially with fairly thick axles but moderate torque exposure (like here) - I don't quite get why they don't just drill and tap the axles (and pins if beefy enough) where the grub screws should go. Yes it adds extra production work, but I'm thinking that having the extruder hobbed gear(s) only mountable in one tightly controlled fixed position - would be more than made up for in costs saved on customer support, by closing that avenue of user assembly error.
Am I off track here? Missing something? I know with open design dual gears, you can loosen up the grub screws so that both gears can roll and move farily freely, then run some straight filament back and forth through the gears to make them _sorta_ self-align. But most solid extruders the last few years are almost exclusively enclosed units, so you can't get at the grub screws without relieving tension on the gears and opening it up, which has a high chance of them shifting position.
Thanks for posting this!
My motor works fine outside of the assembly but not when mounted. It might (but not always) move the gears a bit, and then jam. Mostly it just jams. No filament is loaded. Got the trianglelabs kit and printed the parts with ABS on an Ultimaker S5 if that helps. Any thoughts?
Great Vid! Does the micro use the same internals? Thanks.
Great design. How is the wear on the different components? ABS and metal?
I have over 50kg of filament trugh sherpa mini's difrent iterations. i can't see any wear at all. just clean the wheels once in a while and thats it.
Very minimalist but I can still see some areas for weight saving. Maybe even an adapter for a flex drive solution and eliminate the motor weight as well. Couldn't really get to judge how well the feed from fillament gears to heat break is going to deal with flexible fillaments and loading as I couldn't see to well.
that flex drive is actually going to add more moving weight to the system. cable weight / 2 would be about what the effective weight the toolhead would actually see when all is said and done.
hello thanks for video . I have a problem with mine . TPU slide when extruding . And even when the wheel is tight, the TPU slips. I can even get it out by hand by pulling lightly. On the other hand, no money with pla petg and other hard filament . do you know what could be the problem? Because I disassembled several times and there are not 50 ways. I put a piece of filament to center the gears but it the same problem . Thanks
awesome design. I'm wandering into corexy and direct drive territory and can't wait to test this out on my first corexy build. May I know if a standard bmg extruder (clone) has all the necessary components to build this?
clones should, youd be best looking at our sourcing guide to make sure your not missing anything. and you do require a special motor
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I love any help you can offer me
@Forrest Walker instablaster :)
@Ty Marvin thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ty Marvin It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
How do I know the vref vlue (e0_current) for the exdruder motor? I have sherpa and a Moon's motor (pancake NEMA14)
So can you just like not have a bowden tube?
what do you do with the bottom 2 holes? Do they require brass inserts also?
bottom on the back part, yes: github.com/Annex-Engineering/Sherpa_Mini-Extruder/blob/master/Build_Instructions/Sherpa_Mini_Assembly_Guide_r2.pdf
Please post a video of how to change the firmware on ender 3 v2. This is the most difficult part😖
What are the plastic parts made out of? I print Nylon Carbon Composite and ABS only, so; that Sherpa Mini has to be able to print at 260° in an atmospheric temperature of 150° constant. Can it do it, how much does it cost, and what is it made out of?
The plastic gear will very likely not work at 150C. I would recommend finding a replacement metal gear and making the printed parts out of a high temperature CF nylon. Also you would need water cool the stepper but you probably already do that
how many steps / mm you need to adjust
Hello dear! In which CAD program did you design the extruder?
Solidworks
@@AnnexEngineering Fine! We also work at Solidworks. Could you share the original files? I'll be very thankful: mostudio3d@gmail.com
@@AnnexEngineering maybe you can upload the source file via GitHub
Is the stl files recommended to print in petg? I have no success in abs on my ender 3.
Abs/Asa are the only really recommended ones
can you use a screw instead of the 3MM pin?
The pin comes with a BMG gear set
are the bearings already included in the BMG?
yes
hy, nice vídeo, you can share the link for the extruder body?
It’s on our GitHub
files to print? where?
GitHub
nicework, but you can improve it.
The strength seems not capable for frequent duty.
The development team has thousands of hours on these at this point with zero issues. Your sorely mistaken
boy, i feel stupid... then again, would've been nice if you at least said wth that thing is. Nope.
Lol, it's an extruder for a 3D printer. Does that help?
This is a custom very light weight extruder for doing high speed printing.
The print quality of the parts is worst. You made it with 3d print pen? Temp seems to high and and and and....
Its made by an untuned abs machine in a 70C enclosure (not the K2 in the video). just shows that no matter the quality it will still work.
@@tonn0297 okay, anyway not a good commercial for annex, just my 2 cents
@@piterparker3637 it’s a how to video not an ad and it beats your printing in the dark livestream any day imo. Not good ad for Piter Parker
@@Olof123 which videos are you talking about?
@@Olof123 @Piter Parker is right, the print quality is terrible and not something they should post. No need to get so aggressive about it, is there?
Also wanted to add that this guy REALLY should clean is hands before doing a closeup assembly including his hands, disgusting....
Works perfect for me!
I also designed a carriage for my 3d printer ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904287 ) and i print all kinds of filament with that, TPU, PETG, ABS and exotics like carbon filaments. Thanks man!