Buy something really expensive and non-returnable that should solve the problem. Then the problem will go away with the new part on the shelf. That's how it seems to work for me.
I ran across one of your videos today and have been hooked on them. I'm from IL and moved to Tampa Bay area 4 years ago, and really miss late model dirt track racing. I remember going as a kid my grandpa would take me to the track every weekend. I grew up watching Kevin Weaver and Roger Long and all the big guys that run the circuit. Your videos are awesome and take me back to the good ole days. Keep them going, I am a big fan and new sub!!!
Sometimes the fan blades will straighten out after a while, and not push as much air through the radiator. Another thing you can try is make an air dam, from the side of theradiator to the nose, to force the air that comes from underneath the nose to go through the radiator. And always, always after every race, take the radiator out, spray it with water, and clear it of all debris.
Your son is something else. Checking the air, filter, and transmission. Then he walks over and looks under the car at the transmission. Tell him his shoes are cool
The little guy is going to one awesome mechanic and driver. He stays right there with dad , grandpa and uncle working on the cars. Some day I would like to get down to Melton Florida and watch you all race. I agree little man's shoe's are cool.
We had the same problem with a brand new small block 434 cubic inch engine, it was a water flow issue. We love your Vlogs, your belief in God and your attitudes not only to race but to have fun slingin dirt.
In comments a man said bigger oil cooler with a fan, makes sense because your oil Lubricates , cleans the engine, and cools the engine. They make a funnel for putting water or coolent in the radiator that gets all the air out of the system. Any Xtra air to cool the radiator by duct work or drilling small holes in front of the radiator will help. Good luck Joe and John ! The front is just a little ways. Relax and drive to the front!! Have fun! Hey to Dad and Jimmy Owens Junior.
I agree with you Jack....I think the water is moving to fast to cool it down> I hate cooling problems. Anytime I have one I change everything related to cooler.Heck I even changed wives one time.Didn t do nothing for the car,but sure cooled me down. Hello from Texas
@@jameshelton2846 yep,overheating is not good. i just changed out a radiator n water pump,old stuff seemed fine but i pull a boat.like to run cool as pos in the summer!
Hey fellas, enjoy having Daddy around!! Nothing like a racing family. Me and my brother are trying to get back out there but our Daddy has passed away. Enjoy those moments!!
That "Wheelman" knows his ride. Sound like he's on the right path to getting it fixed . Still looking to get up with y'all one day at The Mag. Best of luck with the repairs and prayers for a mild storm and the families safety during it. God bless.
ive had it where the tubes in the radiator swell up and cause this, fought it for a month before i finally just said f it and put a new rad in, never had a problem since
Ideas... flush the block and heads. Check head gasket. Is it open over all the water jackets ? Some head gaskets cover up a few holes. New water pump ? Air leakage at carb base gasket ? Hoses collapsed inside somewhere ? Rad plugged inside ? Think flow restriction. Timing adjustment can cause it to run hotter.
More Possible Options from an old dirt racer in NC, 1. Make sure fins in radiator are clean, ie. washed out or blown out 2. Reduce the orifice size in the water neck where the thermostat should be, if you have a thermostat ( could be sticking partially closed). 3. Small hairline crack in one of the heads. Ford 300 / 6 cylinder engines were notorious for this. They would run perfect till you got into a hard pull, then they would overheat. Also: I was a chassis setup guy for years on lates and modifieds. most recently, I worked in E. Texas and helped a guy go from also ran to finishing 2nd or 3rd every week. I think you are leaving a lot on the table for forward bite. Let me know if you are interested.
I think you guys should do a video on how to get sponsors and what you all do to get good sponsors and what all you guys put in to that side of racing with funding and everything along that line
it sucks that you boys are having overheating issues but its cool to c u all working together.missed seeing u both together at the same track but hey we got 2 diff. vids for the price of one.nice video john.cant wait for more.take care guys
When I got my car set up to where the nose was completely sealed off at the track I started running 220. Built a fan shroud, put on a longer fan spacer to get fan about an inch away from radiator, gently power washed the fines in the radiator and got tons of dirt out and got rid of that thin white mesh outerwear radiator pre filter. Fixed the problem and I'm running 180 on the hottest of nights.
Pull the foam out of the fuel cell and make sure it is not coming apart . Restricting flow of fuel. That will cause it to get hot. Check your fuel line rail filter on the frame. Take fuel line off carburetor and put line in clear gallon jug. Roll it over about 10 seconds and watch flow in jug stays consistent. If that is not the problem message me back for more ideas. If your interest.
A least with the Jack squeaking you know when someone is using it.....Mash your Gas and Go REAL FAST,,,by the way it shows Style , Character , Class....LOL
Weak water pump?? I bought a new one for my 406sbc in one of my old late models and it was bad right out of box. Replaced it and never had problem again
I agree with this I don't know what degree you're running on the cam button or what timing your running but I have also seen are get trapped and caused this issue
@@natslo26 pull a vacuum on the cooling system and fill it .there's a vacuum cooling system kit you can buy for 30 bucks or so .Or make your own .once you do it that way you will never go back .It sucks the coolant into the block and everything and there's no way for air to be trapped.
thanks for the videos, I've enjoyed watching them for the last couple months. I drive a modified but i haven't in the last 2 years after being hit by a drunk driver on the way to the track that destroyed my car. It appears that you are overheating on long runs down the straightaways , it might be wise to check your fan blades and make sure they are not flattening out under high RPM. I had that problem when i ran a plastic fan. And the flimsy blade fans will do the same. Good luck and i hope you get better results at the next track.
19inc race fan at least 4 blade they are expensive but it cooled my spread bore down 10 deg . good complete shroud would help too good luck this weekend.
Also if you guys are running just straight water then I wouldn’t let it get to 225. Water boils at 212, but good luck, hope y’all get it figured out and fixed!
“You talking to me or is everyone listening” lol then the video gets edited there. Lol oops!!! I know your gonna get it lined out & probably gonna be something simple. You guys are putting out the best content right now on TH-cam. I see you channel growing big in the future if you & your family keep things going like this.
From my perspective if the radiator has been in the car for a while it very well might be time for a new one. Or at the very least the cooling fins washed and blown out. Although the carburetor you were using might jet different than you are used too. Meaning what is rich on one could be leaner on another. Base on the general overall destruction of the carburetor. Since ports and passages could be different sizes or cast at a little different angle. Anything that would make a difference in how it would be jetted vs what you are used too. Also if the engine has made quite a few laps, it could be getting tired and ready for a refreshing. Yet 250 is the magic temperature for any engine that isn't a pressurized system that can be adjusted with forced air into the system. These are all things, I have learned from folks that have much more experience in this area than me.
Overheating is scary lol. We just threw the belts on are spec motor after all said and done the temp gauge was stuck at 200 lol. Getting rebuilt back in two weeks. I’m out here in Iowa !
Pull the radiator and get it hot tanked to make sure there's no restrictions inside and nothing on the outside. Are the cooling fins in good shape? Not restricting airflow? Do you run a thermostat or flow restriction plate? If a thermostat, try swapping it out for a restriction plate with 5/8" hole. Thermostats can be troublesome and no restriction lets the water circulate through the radiator too fast to have a chance to cool down. I'd also suggest replacing the radiator hoses and making sure you have ones with springs in them so they aren't collapsing which will happen when they get hot. A new radiator cap is pretty cheap too, 18 or 20#. I can't see your fan shroud but I'm sure you're running one. Radiator fans don't work well in the open. Just some things I can think of to check out and try off the top of my head after spending 10 years as crew and crew chief on a Super. Good luck! Always enjoy the videos!
Pay attention to the radiator hoses. I know my cousins b mod had the same problem a few years ago and the top hose was collapsing at half throttle. 2nd is check the block and head gaskets. My camaro would over heat and took the motor out and found 2 cracks in the block.
Might want to look in the distributor. I’ve seen guys chase over heating and something be wrong in the distributor. Good luck. I’ll get the specific part tomorrow from my buddy that fought the same issue.
I know its a long haul, but, some of the Southern All Stars guys came up to Richmond Raceway, Kentucky. My home track, earlier this year. I'd like to see yall come up sometime. Friday August 16th and saturday the 17th will be $20,059 to win, the Paul "Butterball" Memorial at the Beast of the East.
Sure thought it was lean.. The over heating started after carb swap,, Know you added fuel to new carb now change back to old carb still Hzot . I do not have a clue Water pump?? Some thing in water jacket slowing water flow . some thing in radiator slowing flow???? Swap Radiator would be next. or Water pump swap.. DO NOT THINK IT IS A MOTOR ISSUE
actually reducing water flow helps them run cooler unless it is reduced to much, which would make a person wonder if the impellers aren't slipping on the water pump shaft and reducing the water flow to much..
It doesn't take much dirt/dust to stop up a radiator, make sure it's clean and then clean it one more time. I've been there done that, you would be surprised how much stuff comes out on the second cleaning.
I had a cooling problem with my super late model. I changed the carb, radiator, both hoses top and bottom, oil cooler, water pump and nothing helped. Went through a divorce and had to sell it never finding out the problem. I built a 1968 Chevy pickup for the street, a built 400. I decided to use the same type racing fan I had on the late model. Found the problem, the pitch on the fan was at a larger degree. I could not keep the fan from slipping no matter how tight I got it, even broke one belt. There was the problem. Belts slipping on the late model.
Test and Tune time..... that's pretty good, I like it! But I was thinkin' the next race at the local there.... just pay the pit fee and either run on hot laps and pull out or after all racing is over --- then test and tune. But anyway...... think the car sounded better with the old carb..... but the new is over-jetted anyway. An all aluminum 430 on 114 @ 220 --- shouldn't be!!! More concerning is the newer carb washing it down and it being 225! --- Alrighty then..... looking at cooling ---- So: Radiator, radiator cap, fan, belts, pulleys, water pump, water restrictor.
If the radiator is a dual pass configuration, the core separator may be leaking or dislodged on the tank between the spouts.. causing the coolant to short circuit the core.
build a full shroud for the fan with the cars being sealed off now days you really need a complete shroud and ducting in front of the radiator to force the air through it. We struggled with the same issues.
If you're set on buying a radiator try a FSR. Ran one (single pass) for a couple seasons with a 19" 4 blade gm fan, no shroud. Had the opposite problem. Took forever to build heat in the motor. Are you running external cooling lines from the water pump to the side of the block?
Hey stupid question but have you done some looking into your radiator cap if it’s bleeding off pressure it won’t let your cooling system act right and I would check your fan blades to make sure they didn’t go flat and stop pulling air across your radiator
Weak water pump or if u have a restrictor in the water neck that’ll do it. But if u want to never worry about again u can just run alcohol 🧐 that’s what we run stays at about 190 on a 407 cubic in
my 2 cents, before I bought a radiator I would ck for vac leaks intake carb base ect, check fuel flow , fuel in oil, make sure ign timing is good, and water flow, radiators normally just quit cooling if not leaking, they can slowly start clogging up inside and then cause over heating just guessing good luck Ps maybe even a leak dn test for head gaskets ?
Damn that’s what I like to see boys. Process of Elimination. You guys will find it. Hopefully it’s the Radiator if that don’t work I change the water pump to
I used to work for a cup team, duct work is very important, also radiator cap, must have good pressure, more pressure lower boiling point, you probably know that,do you run a thermostat or restrict the flow some how?
Do not know if you are running a mechanical or electric water temp gauge. There are several suspects but since you changed the carb I would lean toward the possiblilty that you might have knicked a wire when you pulled the linkage/springs on the carb. The location on most intakes is on the front left and the wire runs down the left side of the engine right where all the carb hook ups are. Just a thought. Since it STARTED when you changed the carb that is the area that I would look in first. If the wire is knicked it could give you a false reading. Good luck guys. Been there done that. Spent several years banging around short dirt where I raced against Shep Lucas dad and uncle and then on the kinston, montgomery and pensacola. heating problems can be a bear to find. Good luck.
hi guys here is something think about to that is on your rad. return do you run thurmestat or ring reduser cause at different tracks can be heavy will have effect on it too they have different sizes I think they have 5 or 6 different ones I will check one of our racer I will get back to you on the problem on so stay tune
Had a cooling issue after installing a much needed larger carb. Worked and worked on the cooling system with no luck. After burning a hole in the top of a piston we discovered that the fuel line was not big enough. The engine seemed to run fine and didn't act like it had a fuel problem but after changing the fuel line the problem went away. May not be the line in your case but not enough fuel can be deceiving. Hope you get it figured out before it cost you a lot of money and time like it did us. In another comment I seen the "water ain't wet enough", well we even tried an additive called 'water wetter' lol.
We put a deverter plug in the bottom hose of the water pump it dropped r temperature 20 degrees in a street stock asphalt car. We got a freeze out plug drilled a 5/8th hole in it put it on the bottom hose at the water pump it work for us never had a problem again thought maybe that would help you guys
Do you have a double pass radiator? I am assuming you run a cross flow aluminum. Do you run a resistor to slow the water to keep it in the radiator a little longer? I have seen a car run cooler with a thermostat. Another problem could be the pump is moving the water too fast and not getting enough time in the radiator. With it running at the top end of the heat range I would look at slowing down the water.If that works please let me know. Could be as simple as running a larger water pump pulley. Hope that helps.
Im guessing waterpump and coolant restrictor will take care of it, otherwise put a bigger radiator cap 20psi will make the water not boil till 270ish degrees so it will bandaid it
Squeeze your hoses. Any soft ones that migh be collapsing ? You could put a car heater in the cockpit. It would act as a second rad. and draw heat away from the engine. It might be good to have one anyway. You could open and close it at will.
Old Ford flathead V8s were known for cooling problems. Taking the thermostat out made the problem worse, not better. Coolant did not spend enough time in the radiator, and the unimpeded circulation caused foaming. Check the accuracy of your gauge first. No other symptoms than the gauge, right? Use a chemical tester to see if there is even the least bit of exhaust gas in the cooling system. And then flow test the radiator.
I feels like it can only be a hand full of things causing it to over heat... Right? Your pops will figure it out but Joseph is on to something with them closing comments! Hope y'all figure this deal out.
Hey what kind of rad do ya need ive got a 4 cor aluminum one that came out of mine i dont run anymore if itl fit yours il send it to ya send me the size if measurements are good il send you some picks all ive had in it is water and koolaid
Over heating = Thermostat stuck , Clogged radiator, Water pump, Lose belts, Better not to use corrugated hoses.Use straight hose with spring. Air pockets can be removed by lifting the front of car .Get the rad cap at the highest point. Engine running water circulating ,Raise the RPMs as you add water. When full put the cap back on before you lower the RPMS. Radiator shroud. Fan blade (flex) or electric fans or pump, Fan sensor,To much advanced timing, To lean. Airflow through radiator. Overflow tank. Leaks. Head gaskets. When engine is warm and the starter has a hard time turning it over back off on the advance timing a little. I like Michaels comment LOL.
Buy something really expensive and non-returnable that should solve the problem. Then the problem will go away with the new part on the shelf. That's how it seems to work for me.
I ran across one of your videos today and have been hooked on them. I'm from IL and moved to Tampa Bay area 4 years ago, and really miss late model dirt track racing. I remember going as a kid my grandpa would take me to the track every weekend. I grew up watching Kevin Weaver and Roger Long and all the big guys that run the circuit. Your videos are awesome and take me back to the good ole days. Keep them going, I am a big fan and new sub!!!
I had a collapsing hose on a street stock once. Just something else to check. 💪to the🏁
Sometimes the fan blades will straighten out after a while, and not push as much air through the radiator. Another thing you can try is make an air dam, from the side of theradiator to the nose, to force the air that comes from underneath the nose to go through the radiator. And always, always after every race, take the radiator out, spray it with water, and clear it of all debris.
You guys are the best dirt late model race car drivers I ever watch
Can't beat the shroud and radiator from Keyser. Very high quality and not crazy expensive for what you get
Got my Hunt The Front shirt in the mail today, thanks. Enjoy watching your videos, you guys are a total class act. Keep up the great work !!
Your son is something else. Checking the air, filter, and transmission. Then he walks over and looks under the car at the transmission. Tell him his shoes are cool
He steals the show
The little guy is going to one awesome mechanic and driver. He stays right there with dad , grandpa and uncle working on the cars. Some day I would like to get down to Melton Florida and watch you all race. I agree little man's shoe's are cool.
We had the same problem with a brand new small block 434 cubic inch engine, it was a water flow issue. We love your Vlogs, your belief in God and your attitudes not only to race but to have fun slingin dirt.
In comments a man said bigger oil cooler with a fan, makes sense because your oil Lubricates , cleans the engine, and cools the engine. They make a funnel for putting water or coolent in the radiator that gets all the air out of the system. Any Xtra air to cool the radiator by duct work or drilling small holes in front of the radiator will help. Good luck Joe and John ! The front is just a little ways. Relax and drive to the front!! Have fun! Hey to Dad and Jimmy Owens Junior.
Had overheating one time, turned out the water was flowing to fast & didn't have time to cool, put a restricter in thermostat housing and all was good
I agree with you Jack....I think the water is moving to fast to cool it down> I hate cooling problems. Anytime I have one I change everything related to cooler.Heck I even changed wives one time.Didn t do nothing for the car,but sure cooled me down. Hello from Texas
@@jameshelton2846 yep,overheating is not good. i just changed out a radiator n water pump,old stuff seemed fine but i pull a boat.like to run cool as pos in the summer!
Use to race mini stocks and had the same issue. Put a large washer in the thermostat housing to slow/restrict the water. Helped a ton.
5/8 hole in washer worked for me. Make sure you did not get a reverse rotation water pump,seen that too.
I had that trouble one time put a bigger oil cooler wit a fan on it brought my water temp down 25 degrees
Hey fellas, enjoy having Daddy around!! Nothing like a racing family. Me and my brother are trying to get back out there but our Daddy has passed away. Enjoy those moments!!
That "Wheelman" knows his ride. Sound like he's on the right path to getting it fixed . Still looking to get up with y'all one day at The Mag. Best of luck with the repairs and prayers for a mild storm and the families safety during it. God bless.
ive had it where the tubes in the radiator swell up and cause this, fought it for a month before i finally just said f it and put a new rad in, never had a problem since
The little dude is so awsome he cracks me up .
Experts...... experts everywhere. Great channel, keep it up.
I always have notifications on for Videos keep up the good work
Best racing content on TH-cam. Great work
Your little boy is so adorable haha my 4 year old is always trying to help me work on stuff and ALWAYS wants to drive on iracing haha
Ideas... flush the block and heads. Check head gasket. Is it open over all the water jackets ? Some head gaskets cover up a few holes. New water pump ? Air leakage at carb base gasket ? Hoses collapsed inside somewhere ? Rad plugged inside ? Think flow restriction. Timing adjustment can cause it to run hotter.
More Possible Options from an old dirt racer in NC,
1. Make sure fins in radiator are clean, ie. washed out or blown out
2. Reduce the orifice size in the water neck where the thermostat should be, if you have a thermostat ( could be sticking partially closed).
3. Small hairline crack in one of the heads. Ford 300 / 6 cylinder engines were notorious for this. They would run perfect till you got into a hard pull, then they would overheat.
Also:
I was a chassis setup guy for years on lates and modifieds. most recently, I worked in E. Texas and helped a guy go from also ran to finishing 2nd or 3rd every week. I think you are leaving a lot on the table for forward bite. Let me know if you are interested.
I think you guys should do a video on how to get sponsors and what you all do to get good sponsors and what all you guys put in to that side of racing with funding and everything along that line
It'd be called "Daddy's Money" lmao ;-)
Ur water ain't wet enough
it sucks that you boys are having overheating issues but its cool to c u all working together.missed seeing u both together at the same track but hey we got 2 diff. vids for the price of one.nice video john.cant wait for more.take care guys
we had the same problem for about 7 races and put a bigger fan in it and it fixed the problem
When I got my car set up to where the nose was completely sealed off at the track I started running 220. Built a fan shroud, put on a longer fan spacer to get fan about an inch away from radiator, gently power washed the fines in the radiator and got tons of dirt out and got rid of that thin white mesh outerwear radiator pre filter. Fixed the problem and I'm running 180 on the hottest of nights.
T Shirt Idea "4 Air It Makes It Go Faster Jo Jo "
Pull the foam out of the fuel cell and make sure it is not coming apart .
Restricting flow of fuel.
That will cause it to get hot.
Check your fuel line rail filter on the frame.
Take fuel line off carburetor and put line in clear gallon jug.
Roll it over about 10 seconds and watch flow in jug stays consistent.
If that is not the problem message me back for more ideas.
If your interest.
I'm just glad y'all was got y'alls car up and running where y'all can get back to winning some races hell to the yeah
That's gotta be frustrating. Hope y'all find the problem soon. God bless & Keep Huntin the Front! 🏁
A least with the Jack squeaking you know when someone is using it.....Mash your Gas and Go REAL FAST,,,by the way it shows Style , Character , Class....LOL
Really enjoying your channel. Hope y’all get it figured out soon.
Weak water pump?? I bought a new one for my 406sbc in one of my old late models and it was bad right out of box. Replaced it and never had problem again
I believe for my truck 96 5.7 cast iron pump is better than Aluminum. Had the truck since new.
Imma check the air filter, transmission, and everything. 😂 That kid is awesome lol.
Thank you!
It's not fuel related. Air trapped in block. I've only seen it happen twice but it can happen.
I agree with this I don't know what degree you're running on the cam button or what timing your running but I have also seen are get trapped and caused this issue
What is the fix for air cought in the block?
@@natslo26 pull a vacuum on the cooling system and fill it .there's a vacuum cooling system kit you can buy for 30 bucks or so .Or make your own .once you do it that way you will never go back .It sucks the coolant into the block and everything and there's no way for air to be trapped.
We have had this happen. We loosened up the temperature sending unit in the water neck and bled the air out of it.
thanks for the videos, I've enjoyed watching them for the last couple months. I drive a modified but i haven't in the last 2 years after being hit by a drunk driver on the way to the track that destroyed my car. It appears that you are overheating on long runs down the straightaways , it might be wise to check your fan blades and make sure they are not flattening out under high RPM. I had that problem when i ran a plastic fan. And the flimsy blade fans will do the same. Good luck and i hope you get better results at the next track.
I enjoy your videos- great way to take my lunch break.
Suggestions- becausr of your weather- Oakshade Fri & Sat..- Ohio
19inc race fan at least 4 blade they are expensive but it cooled my spread bore down 10 deg . good complete shroud would help too good luck this weekend.
Thank you!
Also if you guys are running just straight water then I wouldn’t let it get to 225. Water boils at 212, but good luck, hope y’all get it figured out and fixed!
“You talking to me or is everyone listening” lol then the video gets edited there. Lol oops!!! I know your gonna get it lined out & probably gonna be something simple. You guys are putting out the best content right now on TH-cam. I see you channel growing big in the future if you & your family keep things going like this.
You guys do a great job keep it up!!
From my perspective if the radiator has been in the car for a while it very well might be time for a new one. Or at the very least the cooling fins washed and blown out.
Although the carburetor you were using might jet different than you are used too. Meaning what is rich on one could be leaner on another. Base on the general overall destruction of the carburetor. Since ports and passages could be different sizes or cast at a little different angle. Anything that would make a difference in how it would be jetted vs what you are used too.
Also if the engine has made quite a few laps, it could be getting tired and ready for a refreshing.
Yet 250 is the magic temperature for any engine that isn't a pressurized system that can be adjusted with forced air into the system.
These are all things, I have learned from folks that have much more experience in this area than me.
Overheating is scary lol. We just threw the belts on are spec motor after all said and done the temp gauge was stuck at 200 lol. Getting rebuilt back in two weeks. I’m out here in Iowa !
Pull the radiator and get it hot tanked to make sure there's no restrictions inside and nothing on the outside. Are the cooling fins in good shape? Not restricting airflow? Do you run a thermostat or flow restriction plate? If a thermostat, try swapping it out for a restriction plate with 5/8" hole. Thermostats can be troublesome and no restriction lets the water circulate through the radiator too fast to have a chance to cool down. I'd also suggest replacing the radiator hoses and making sure you have ones with springs in them so they aren't collapsing which will happen when they get hot. A new radiator cap is pretty cheap too, 18 or 20#. I can't see your fan shroud but I'm sure you're running one. Radiator fans don't work well in the open. Just some things I can think of to check out and try off the top of my head after spending 10 years as crew and crew chief on a Super. Good luck! Always enjoy the videos!
Pay attention to the radiator hoses. I know my cousins b mod had the same problem a few years ago and the top hose was collapsing at half throttle. 2nd is check the block and head gaskets. My camaro would over heat and took the motor out and found 2 cracks in the block.
Loads up car starts talking sees lightning in the background
Wow that Lightning in the background at 11:49 is pretty crazy 🌩
Might want to look in the distributor. I’ve seen guys chase over heating and something be wrong in the distributor. Good luck. I’ll get the specific part tomorrow from my buddy that fought the same issue.
I know its a long haul, but, some of the Southern All Stars guys came up to Richmond Raceway, Kentucky. My home track, earlier this year.
I'd like to see yall come up sometime.
Friday August 16th and saturday the 17th will be $20,059 to win, the Paul "Butterball" Memorial at the Beast of the East.
Sure thought it was lean.. The over heating started after carb swap,, Know you added fuel to new carb now change back to old carb still Hzot . I do not have a clue Water pump?? Some thing in water jacket slowing water flow . some thing in radiator slowing flow???? Swap Radiator would be next. or Water pump swap.. DO NOT THINK IT IS A MOTOR ISSUE
Me too
actually reducing water flow helps them run cooler unless it is reduced to much, which would make a person wonder if the impellers aren't slipping on the water pump shaft and reducing the water flow to much..
We had the same problem with our crate motor, we thought it was the carb but what it ended out bein was the pulleys, you might check that
two things come to mind TRAPPED AIR ( jack up car get h2o inlet high as possible and bleed) or faulty gauge ......
I love watching on race on TH-cam it is fine and your little kid is so smart
Definitely getting the weekend off for rain.
Y'alls dad looks like the carb whisperer I've seen him in a couple vids so far whispering to them
It doesn't take much dirt/dust to stop up a radiator, make sure it's clean and then clean it one more time. I've been there done that, you would be surprised how much stuff comes out on the second cleaning.
Guys your overheat problem' Put you some shourd around the radiator make the fan pull the air thru
water pump, pump speed (pulley reduction), and fan type. Assuming you have a tunnel in the nose to direct air to the radiator....
I had a cooling problem with my super late model. I changed the carb, radiator, both hoses top and bottom, oil cooler, water pump and nothing helped. Went through a divorce and had to sell it never finding out the problem. I built a 1968 Chevy pickup for the street, a built 400. I decided to use the same type racing fan I had on the late model. Found the problem, the pitch on the fan was at a larger degree. I could not keep the fan from slipping no matter how tight I got it, even broke one belt. There was the problem. Belts slipping on the late model.
Test and Tune time..... that's pretty good, I like it! But I was thinkin' the next race at the local there.... just pay the pit fee and either run on hot laps and pull out or after all racing is over --- then test and tune. But anyway...... think the car sounded better with the old carb..... but the new is over-jetted anyway. An all aluminum 430 on 114 @ 220 --- shouldn't be!!! More concerning is the newer carb washing it down and it being 225! --- Alrighty then..... looking at cooling ---- So: Radiator, radiator cap, fan, belts, pulleys, water pump, water restrictor.
Maybe a tech video on how the rear steer works, and setup for loose or tight track.
If the radiator is a dual pass configuration,
the core separator may be leaking or dislodged on the tank between the spouts..
causing the coolant to short circuit the core.
Maybe the "Nut behind the wheel" is a bit loose...😎
build a full shroud for the fan with the cars being sealed off now days you really need a complete shroud and ducting in front of the radiator to force the air through it. We struggled with the same issues.
SAY IT THE WATER PUMPS PULLEY
If you're set on buying a radiator try a FSR. Ran one (single pass) for a couple seasons with a 19" 4 blade gm fan, no shroud. Had the opposite problem. Took forever to build heat in the motor. Are you running external cooling lines from the water pump to the side of the block?
Hey stupid question but have you done some looking into your radiator cap if it’s bleeding off pressure it won’t let your cooling system act right and I would check your fan blades to make sure they didn’t go flat and stop pulling air across your radiator
Check your distributor, had same problem. Set timing at 3k but found over 5k the advance went off the chart.
Weak water pump or if u have a restrictor in the water neck that’ll do it. But if u want to never worry about again u can just run alcohol 🧐 that’s what we run stays at about 190 on a 407 cubic in
red wine !!
Check to see if the head gasket is blown that could be the issue for it runnning hot!!
Come to Pennsylvania, got some killer tracks here, my local track is small but fast. Look up old Bradford speedway.
If you are running a thermostat restrictor, try going larger or smaller. Water could be moving to quickly or slowly.
The car sounded a lot better and faster with the second carb. on it (sounded faster and a better R.P.M. sound.
my 2 cents, before I bought a radiator I would ck for vac leaks intake carb base ect, check fuel flow , fuel in oil, make sure ign timing is good, and water flow, radiators normally just quit cooling if not leaking, they can slowly start clogging up inside and then cause over heating just guessing good luck Ps maybe even a leak dn test for head gaskets ?
Damn that’s what I like to see boys. Process of Elimination. You guys will find it. Hopefully it’s the Radiator if that don’t work I change the water pump to
I used to work for a cup team, duct work is very important, also radiator cap, must have good pressure, more pressure lower boiling point, you probably know that,do you run a thermostat or restrict the flow some how?
Do not know if you are running a mechanical or electric water temp gauge. There are several suspects but since you changed the carb I would lean toward the possiblilty that you might have knicked a wire when you pulled the linkage/springs on the carb. The location on most intakes is on the front left and the wire runs down the left side of the engine right where all the carb hook ups are. Just a thought. Since it STARTED when you changed the carb that is the area that I would look in first. If the wire is knicked it could give you a false reading. Good luck guys. Been there done that. Spent several years banging around short dirt where I raced against Shep Lucas dad and uncle and then on the kinston, montgomery and pensacola. heating problems can be a bear to find. Good luck.
hi guys here is something think about to that is on your rad. return do you run thurmestat or ring reduser cause at different tracks can be heavy will have effect on it too they have different sizes I think they have 5 or 6 different ones I will check one of our racer I will get back to you on the problem on so stay tune
Had a cooling issue after installing a much needed larger carb. Worked and worked on the cooling system with no luck. After burning a hole in the top of a piston we discovered that the fuel line was not big enough. The engine seemed to run fine and didn't act like it had a fuel problem but after changing the fuel line the problem went away. May not be the line in your case but not enough fuel can be deceiving. Hope you get it figured out before it cost you a lot of money and time like it did us. In another comment I seen the "water ain't wet enough", well we even tried an additive called 'water wetter' lol.
Interesting! Thanks for the heads up! We’ll definitely look into that.
Good high flow water pump
We put a deverter plug in the bottom hose of the water pump it dropped r temperature 20 degrees in a street stock asphalt car. We got a freeze out plug drilled a 5/8th hole in it put it on the bottom hose at the water pump it work for us never had a problem again thought maybe that would help you guys
the kids man, that boy will have racin in his blood forever... awesome
Do you have a double pass radiator? I am assuming you run a cross flow aluminum. Do you run a resistor to slow the water to keep it in the radiator a little longer? I have seen a car run cooler with a thermostat. Another problem could be the pump is moving the water too fast and not getting enough time in the radiator. With it running at the top end of the heat range I would look at slowing down the water.If that works please let me know. Could be as simple as running a larger water pump pulley. Hope that helps.
You guys should try to drill holes in the nose to get more air flow to the radiator
You should do a shop tour!
Make a fan shroud for the 10 car
Im guessing waterpump and coolant restrictor will take care of it, otherwise put a bigger radiator cap 20psi will make the water not boil till 270ish degrees so it will bandaid it
check it with a thermo gun and make sure the gauge is reading correctly too
Squeeze your hoses. Any soft ones that migh be collapsing ? You could put a car heater in the cockpit. It would act as a second rad. and draw heat away from the engine. It might be good to have one anyway. You could open and close it at will.
Well I would have also thought that was it
put a triple pass Rad in it and a high floe thermostat and some water wetter
Old Ford flathead V8s were known for cooling problems. Taking the thermostat out made the problem worse, not better. Coolant did not spend enough time in the radiator, and the unimpeded circulation caused foaming.
Check the accuracy of your gauge first. No other symptoms than the gauge, right? Use a chemical tester to see if there is even the least bit of exhaust gas in the cooling system. And then flow test the radiator.
I feels like it can only be a hand full of things causing it to over heat... Right? Your pops will figure it out but Joseph is on to something with them closing comments! Hope y'all figure this deal out.
Hey what kind of rad do ya need ive got a 4 cor aluminum one that came out of mine i dont run anymore if itl fit yours il send it to ya send me the size if measurements are good il send you some picks all ive had in it is water and koolaid
Just load up and come to West Virginia and race the bullring. Tyler county wv. Look it up pretty fast track.
Over heating =
Thermostat stuck , Clogged radiator, Water pump, Lose belts, Better not to use corrugated hoses.Use straight hose with spring. Air pockets can be removed by lifting the front of car .Get the rad cap at the highest point. Engine running water circulating ,Raise the RPMs as you add water. When full put the cap back on before you lower the RPMS. Radiator shroud. Fan blade (flex) or electric fans or pump, Fan sensor,To much advanced timing, To lean. Airflow through radiator. Overflow tank. Leaks. Head gaskets. When engine is warm and the starter has a hard time turning it over back off on the advance timing a little.
I like Michaels comment LOL.
Might be a head gasket
I saw a timing light off 5 degrees cause mayhem.
Yeah water pump or perhaps a fan that pulls more air? Do you guys ever run any water/antifreeze additive?