I went for a standard scarpa instinct vs and concur this is the shoe for widefooted. Very pleased. Still breaking them into the fit like a glove feel, but can definitely say that with every session of bouldering they are getting me more confidence in my footing. One note to get the sizing almost spot-on as they won't stretch much. I got the same impression of the new s model - with only the upper material stretching. This reason also pulled me to those shoes, since I know I don't have to worry they will overstretch in time.
What i would love to see scarpa do most of all as my and many many others favourite shoe brand. Is offer us the S-72 rubber on all indoor/bouldering shoes, drago, furia, instinct and booster. Alot of people are loving the Veloce and id love to try it on others. Gimme the Instinct S-72 model bby
So they fixed the issue with the toe patch rubber by creating less areas for it to peel off, but only on the slipper...that struggles with heel hooks after a while due to there not being a strap. I do hope they implement the toe patch changes on the VS and VSR variants. I'm currently using the SR (current slipper) and i dropped down the usual amount of sizes and the heel just slips off my foot after 4/5 months when hot and sweaty. Defiantly a large draw back.
I don't have any slippers, but i've broken the tightening straps on some of my shoes and thus the heel would pop off in some moves. I would highly recommend trying to tape the shoe all the way around where the strap should be. It has given my shoes a second wind, and i don't see why this wouldn't work on a slipper if you really need to heel hook hard. No strap? Just tape it for extra compression.
@@molomono9481 Yeah i'll do this with my slippers, great idea. Definitely don't think shoe makers should allow such a large issue with their shoes to be fixed by applying climbing tape.
@@MythAvatar I kind of feel like these design decisions are just tradeoffs. And once i found out how well tape works I'm looking at slippers to buy, since i feel like it's a very versatile option if you don't loose the heel. (but i don't hook "hard" on a daily basis either)
@@molomono9481 What do you call hard? What kind of rock are you climbing on, and what kind of grades? Perhaps this solution only really works for less frictioned rocks like polished limestone and sandstone, and at levels where you're not heel hooking that hard? I'll still be trying it of course!
@@MythAvatar I'm talking cruxy heel hooks from benchmark V6 up to V8. Or more specifically when you place high heel for a compression move, or a high heel hook when coming out of a roof section where your leg is carrying the majority of the load while you are pivoting around on small crimps. Of course it still is very technique and route dependant whether your shoe will pop off though. As for friction outside i'm usually climbing on Sandstone or limestone, but it's Fontainebleau Sandstone which is the most freakishly high friction rock I've ever touched. But the point isn't that it solves the problem 100%, but taping my broken shoes works as well/better for the fit of my shoe than pulling the velcro tight before they broke. Just try it out and you might be surprised how nice it works.
In construction the Instinct SR , like all other Instinct models , has Bi Tension , the new Instinct S has CTS tension. The heel on the new Instinct S is like the other classic Instinct models , with XS Grip 2 , unlike the SR model had. That is the biggest difference between Instinct SR and new Instinct S. In function the CTS system completely changes the fit. It allows the foot to spread a little more easily and the M50 adapts more softly to the shape of the foot. The flex and comfort is improved but toe power a little less crisp as the other Instinct models. Hope that helps to answer your question.
@@nathanhoette328 Yes, nathan at his best - thank you very much for the infos! :) I found the Instinct SR to be... little too hard and too harsh for the big toe - brand new out of the box in the same size as i wear in other Scarpa shoes (-1,5 EU). I don't know how it would have changed over time. But sounds good, looking forward to try these on :) EDIT: Ah, i forgot: like the other Instinct models the Instinct S has a center shaped toe. Since i have a "normal" egyptian toe and don't like to get Hallux Valgus or such "things", i'll pass. But I'M still rocking my old orange Vapors on rock and the Chimeras are still godlike :)
@@nathanhoette328 hi Nathan! Is the new instinct S on the same last as the usual instincts? Or same as the SR? I’m looking for a lower volume heel like the SR, thanks!!
@@AndreLai97 Ciao! The Instinct has 3 last in the family. Instinct , Instinct VS & VSR are on the FV last. Instinct WMN and Instinct VS WMN are on the FJW last , this has a lower volume heel and slim fore foot. The Instinct SR & new Instinct S are on the FJ last , which has a lower volume heel than FV , same fore foot. You can find the last the model is made on for each SCARPA climbing shoe it is printed on each model next to the bar code inside the shoe. Hope that helps!
@@nathanhoette328 ooooh that’s great! The SR fit me pretty well, so same size for the new S? Thanks for the help, your climbing shoe explanations are the best!
Nathan is far and away my favorite climbing rep. What a boss!
2022 is going to be a great climbing year!
That's for sure, no matter how many new shoes come out.
I went for a standard scarpa instinct vs and concur this is the shoe for widefooted. Very pleased. Still breaking them into the fit like a glove feel, but can definitely say that with every session of bouldering they are getting me more confidence in my footing.
One note to get the sizing almost spot-on as they won't stretch much. I got the same impression of the new s model - with only the upper material stretching. This reason also pulled me to those shoes, since I know I don't have to worry they will overstretch in time.
Is Scarpa going to be nice to their bigger footed climbing fans this time around and offer this in a size 45.5 and up? 🙏
What i would love to see scarpa do most of all as my and many many others favourite shoe brand. Is offer us the S-72 rubber on all indoor/bouldering shoes, drago, furia, instinct and booster. Alot of people are loving the Veloce and id love to try it on others. Gimme the Instinct S-72 model bby
So they fixed the issue with the toe patch rubber by creating less areas for it to peel off, but only on the slipper...that struggles with heel hooks after a while due to there not being a strap. I do hope they implement the toe patch changes on the VS and VSR variants. I'm currently using the SR (current slipper) and i dropped down the usual amount of sizes and the heel just slips off my foot after 4/5 months when hot and sweaty. Defiantly a large draw back.
I don't have any slippers, but i've broken the tightening straps on some of my shoes and thus the heel would pop off in some moves. I would highly recommend trying to tape the shoe all the way around where the strap should be. It has given my shoes a second wind, and i don't see why this wouldn't work on a slipper if you really need to heel hook hard.
No strap? Just tape it for extra compression.
@@molomono9481 Yeah i'll do this with my slippers, great idea. Definitely don't think shoe makers should allow such a large issue with their shoes to be fixed by applying climbing tape.
@@MythAvatar I kind of feel like these design decisions are just tradeoffs. And once i found out how well tape works I'm looking at slippers to buy, since i feel like it's a very versatile option if you don't loose the heel. (but i don't hook "hard" on a daily basis either)
@@molomono9481 What do you call hard? What kind of rock are you climbing on, and what kind of grades? Perhaps this solution only really works for less frictioned rocks like polished limestone and sandstone, and at levels where you're not heel hooking that hard? I'll still be trying it of course!
@@MythAvatar I'm talking cruxy heel hooks from benchmark V6 up to V8. Or more specifically when you place high heel for a compression move, or a high heel hook when coming out of a roof section where your leg is carrying the majority of the load while you are pivoting around on small crimps. Of course it still is very technique and route dependant whether your shoe will pop off though. As for friction outside i'm usually climbing on Sandstone or limestone, but it's Fontainebleau Sandstone which is the most freakishly high friction rock I've ever touched.
But the point isn't that it solves the problem 100%, but taping my broken shoes works as well/better for the fit of my shoe than pulling the velcro tight before they broke.
Just try it out and you might be surprised how nice it works.
Is the S replacing theVSR??
Is this a replacement for the Instinct SR from 2020?
seems like it. Infos about the differences would be nice.
Or more precise: the ONLY important info.
How’s the sizing compared to the VS/VSR? (:
Sizing is the same, somehow they fit differently. Toebox feels more pointed at the center and less asymmetric. Also flatter toebox
sounds like you are explaining my feet. should probably try these ones
Where is the little clip at the end. Anyone know the valley?
I'm volunteering to test them for free. Just send like 4-6 pairs to me, no need to thank me.
I am a UK 8 and have the VS and VSR at UK 7. For my foot shape with long small toes, these shoes are impossible. I had to go to UK 7.5 for these.
Hey, i have the drago lv in size 36.5 Eu, i want to buy the new instinct s, should i go with the same size or go Down size to 35.5
same
What`s the difference between the current Instinct SR and the new Instinct S?
Besides it beeing blue now of course?
In construction the Instinct SR , like all other Instinct models , has Bi Tension , the new Instinct S has CTS tension. The heel on the new Instinct S is like the other classic Instinct models , with XS Grip 2 , unlike the SR model had. That is the biggest difference between Instinct SR and new Instinct S. In function the CTS system completely changes the fit. It allows the foot to spread a little more easily and the M50 adapts more softly to the shape of the foot. The flex and comfort is improved but toe power a little less crisp as the other Instinct models. Hope that helps to answer your question.
@@nathanhoette328 Yes, nathan at his best - thank you very much for the infos! :)
I found the Instinct SR to be... little too hard and too harsh for the big toe - brand new out of the box in the same size as i wear in other Scarpa shoes (-1,5 EU). I don't know how it would have changed over time.
But sounds good, looking forward to try these on :)
EDIT: Ah, i forgot: like the other Instinct models the Instinct S has a center shaped toe. Since i have a "normal" egyptian toe and don't like to get Hallux Valgus or such "things", i'll pass. But I'M still rocking my old orange Vapors on rock and the Chimeras are still godlike :)
@@nathanhoette328 hi Nathan! Is the new instinct S on the same last as the usual instincts? Or same as the SR? I’m looking for a lower volume heel like the SR, thanks!!
@@AndreLai97 Ciao! The Instinct has 3 last in the family. Instinct , Instinct VS & VSR are on the FV last. Instinct WMN and Instinct VS WMN are on the FJW last , this has a lower volume heel and slim fore foot. The Instinct SR & new Instinct S are on the FJ last , which has a lower volume heel than FV , same fore foot. You can find the last the model is made on for each SCARPA climbing shoe it is printed on each model next to the bar code inside the shoe. Hope that helps!
@@nathanhoette328 ooooh that’s great! The SR fit me pretty well, so same size for the new S?
Thanks for the help, your climbing shoe explanations are the best!
Legend! Legend!
The drago by his right elbow looks different
It is the kids Drago
Looks great , but only if you've got little feet ! I dont think anyone with feet bigger than a size 10 go climbing anyway 👍
Why do you think so? Most men above 6' or 183cm have bigger feet than UK size 10.