Which household product ruined this Guitar? A Cautionary Tale of Cause & Effect on a Gibson ES175D
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐯𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐨 𝐢𝐬 𝐚 𝐜𝐚𝐮𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐡𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐧𝐬 𝐰𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐮𝐬𝐞 𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐦𝐨𝐧 𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐬𝐞 𝐡𝐨𝐥𝐝 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐝𝐮𝐜𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐩𝐨𝐥𝐢𝐬𝐡 𝐚 𝐠𝐮𝐢𝐭𝐚𝐫 (𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐜𝐚𝐬𝐞 𝐚 𝐆𝐢𝐛𝐬𝐨𝐧 𝐄𝐒𝟏𝟕𝟓𝐃).
𝐂𝐚𝐧 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐠𝐮𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐝𝐮𝐜𝐭 𝐡𝐞 𝐮𝐬𝐞𝐝 𝐛𝐞𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐈 𝐭𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐲𝐨𝐮 at the end?
DON'T USE PLEDGE! It has silicon in it. Ingredient list: www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/1...
If you got value or just enjoyed this video please 𝐋𝐈𝐊𝐄 & 𝐒𝐔𝐁𝐒𝐂𝐑𝐈𝐁𝐄 to help my channel grow!
Want to help me make more content? Please consider becoming a channel member! If this video helped you, Excellent! You can say thanks with a super thanks!
0:00 Introduction
1:26 Where I tell you skip to the end if you aren't interested in watching 34 min of fret work repair.
1:40 Where I say again to skip to the end if you aren't interested in the repair.
3:33 History of the ES175 & Gibson serial number system.....
5:11 Repairing- (all fret work)
31:00 Closeups of the effects of the product on the finish.
33:09 The Product.
*Refretting a fingerboard with glued in frets glued (be it CA, epoxy, hot hide glue, or titebond) is only a slight inconvenience every few decades for most people. Players gigging a lot obviously need refrets more often. A soldering iron releases any glue in seconds. The benefits of gluing in a fret outweigh the cons. On new builds I use hot hide glue for frets.
Tools used in this video- roughly in order of appearance
𝐍𝐄𝐂𝐊 𝐄𝐕𝐀𝐋𝐔𝐀𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍 𝐓𝐎𝐎𝐋𝐒
Fret Rocker- stewmac.sjv.io/BXQdy0
Precision notched straightedge - stewmac.sjv.io/DVrdO5
2-in-1 Precision +Notched Straight edge / - stewmac.sjv.io/kjX2J0
I only showed the Hex wrenches in this video but I have all these
Hex Truss rod wrenches- stewmac.sjv.io/n1z6gM
Allen Truss Rod Wrenches- stewmac.sjv.io/doAJe2
Soundhole Truss Rod Wrenches- stewmac.sjv.io/KeAdPe
𝐑𝐄𝐋𝐈𝐄𝐅 𝐆𝐀𝐔𝐆𝐄𝐒 (not shown in the video)-
Stainless Steel feeler gauge with 26 measurement blades- amzn.to/3xM7cpk
Music nomad Relief gauge- amzn.to/3y7ed5E
Music nomad Nut Height gauge- amzn.to/3tOqZU8
Utility knife blades 100 pack- amzn.to/3Ot1Jum (I go through alot of these)
Deadblow fretting hammer- stewmac.sjv.io/5b30no
Wire Brush kit- amzn.to/3QDcZq5
𝐂𝐀 𝐆𝐋𝐔𝐄𝐒
Starbond Thin EM02- bit.ly/39OVlie
Starbond Thin EM02 + Accelerator - bit.ly/3bj8L6I
Bounty paper towel link below
𝐍𝐄𝐂𝐊 𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐓𝐒
Deadblow Neck rest- stewmac.sjv.io/vnr6VW
Protektor leather Gun rest- amzn.to/3Odulbo
Rock n Roller Neck rest- stewmac.sjv.io/VyWDNJ
Deluxe rock n roller neck rest- stewmac.sjv.io/AoDMjJ
𝐅𝐑𝐄𝐓/𝐅𝐈𝐍𝐆𝐄𝐑𝐁𝐎𝐀𝐑𝐃 𝐅𝐈𝐋𝐄𝐒
Fret & Fingerboard Leveling Files- stewmac.sjv.io/yR56bB
𝐑𝐀𝐃𝐈𝐔𝐒 𝐒𝐀𝐍𝐃𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐁𝐋𝐎𝐂𝐊𝐒
StewMac Wooden Radius blocks- stewmac.sjv.io/DVrdAa
Guyker Aluminum Two-Way Radius Sanding Block- amzn.to/3xMzlfR (these are excellent but expensive)
💎 𝐃𝐈𝐀𝐌𝐎𝐍𝐃 𝐅𝐑𝐄𝐓 𝐂𝐑𝐎𝐖𝐍𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐅𝐈𝐋𝐄𝐒
Offset Diamond file- stewmac.sjv.io/3P30Zy
Z File- stewmac.sjv.io/b3e1Nm
𝐅𝐈𝐍𝐆𝐄𝐑𝐁𝐎𝐀𝐑𝐃 𝐎𝐈𝐋𝐒 (I have no preference, I have them all & they all work. I use only Howards to pick up the metal dust & ALSO use it for general fingerboard conditioning.)
Howards Wood Polish and Conditioner - amzn.to/3Owfl89
Lemon oil (StewMac)- stewmac.sjv.io/9W3dzY
Boiled Linseed oil (StewMac)- stewmac.sjv.io/2r30M0
Dunlop 65 Lemon oil - amzn.to/3HGkc4i
Music Nomad F one - amzn.to/39OEX1c
BOILED linseed oil (IT HAS TO BE **BOILED**)- amzn.to/3bm1K5f
𝐅𝐑𝐄𝐓 𝐏𝐎𝐋𝐈𝐒𝐇𝐈𝐍𝐆
I didn't detail this part but I use a dremel (or WEN brand) with the flexible shaft, with a felt wheel & green compound to polish the frets.
WEN- amzn.to/3HJVWyc
Felt Wheels- amzn.to/3xByeQg
Compound + Wheel kit- amzn.to/3y9oVbP.
(I use the green compound from this kit & I use the white compound to polish nuts/saddles with the other bigger felt wheels in my drill press- its a handy kit)
𝐏𝐀𝐏𝐄𝐑 𝐓𝐎𝐖𝐄𝐋𝐒 (TWO types for different jobs)
VIVA signature cloth (Very soft & what I use to rub finishes)- amzn.to/3tS0EEp
BOUNTY - amzn.to/3n8nP9M (CA glue clean up (*DON'T* use VIVA as it kicks off the ca glue super fast for some reason. Also used for for general workshop cleanup & in the kitchen)
𝐈𝐍𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐔𝐌𝐄𝐍𝐓 𝐏𝐎𝐋𝐈𝐒𝐇 / 𝐂𝐋𝐄𝐀𝐍𝐄𝐑 𝐃𝐄𝐓𝐀𝐈𝐋𝐄𝐑𝐒 (not abrasive)
Dunlop 65 (Small bottle)- amzn.to/3bi1GU3
Dunlop 65 (Big Pro bottle)
Stewmac clean & Shine- stewmac.sjv.io/qnq6Zb
Music Nomad Guitar ONE- amzn.to/3HKNChN
𝐅𝐈𝐍𝐆𝐄𝐑𝐁𝐎𝐀𝐑𝐃 𝐎𝐈𝐋 & 𝐁𝐎𝐃𝐘 𝐂𝐋𝐄𝐀𝐍𝐄𝐑 𝐊𝐈𝐓𝐒 / 𝐏𝐀𝐂𝐊𝐒
DUNLOP 65- amzn.to/3Oe3b4b
MUSIC NOMAD- amzn.to/3n4cpUA
Website for Gibson Serial numbers etc- www.guitarhq.com
I never promote products I don't personally use or believe the quality therein.
This video is not sponsored and may contain product affiliate links which means if you buy something Beau will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.
#beauhannam #gibsonguitars
beauhannamguitars
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Fabulous work as always Beau!
Thanks Mike
Yes, great work.
@@haraldpettersen3649 thanks you :)
I particularly like their fretboard restorative oil and their fret rubbers are most excellent
Jesus Christ loves you bros ❤️
I was laughing at this because my wife is a chef. I told her a guy used olive oil on a classic guitar, and she asked, "What brand of olive oil?" I told her the brand you held up, and she said, "That's not even good olive oil."
Hahahhahah. I actually don’t know the exact brand the owner used, that’s just what I had at home. But now I want to buy some good stuff.
@@BeauHannamGuitars but is only to clean a guitar headstock, not a italian pizza or a lettuce salad, the oil's brand don't matters !
I remember I was a kid in the 70s and I had bought a used Fender Stratocaster neck and I thought I'll clean the headstock with rubbing alcohol to shine it up, the alcohol took the Fender decal clean off! That memory is still fresh and painful even 45 years later! 😭
Ouch- I bet many have done that
Alcohol, especially rubbing alcohol is a powerful solvent that will dissolve and strip a lacquer finish. A solvent known as naptha or plain old lighter fluid like the Ronsenol brand will, strangely enough, not eat a lacquer finish. Even water and moisture will ruin a guitar finish. And never use Lemon Pledge either. There is a product called Renesonce ( spelling?) paste wax that luthiers use. I'm not sure where to get this paste wax. There are other polishes used by luthiers. Just stay away from powerful solvents that will destroy guitar finishes. Acetone is anorher no-no. MEK (methel ethel ketone is the worst) and will eventual dissolve two part epoxy. The only thing MEK will not touch is cured Gorilla glue. I don't know what to tell you any further about cleaning guitars. I will say, however, that fret boards, between the frets themselves (the wood) can be cleaned by carefully, CAREFULLY, scraping with a few single edge razor blades. Hold the blade slightly away from perpendicular and pull. Crud will come off and a bit of wood if carried on like this more than necessary. If there are finger nail divits that aren't too deep, these razor blades do a pretty fair job of lessening to impact and unsightlyness of finger nail gouges. Then use lemon oil as some luthiers use, or better yet in my estimation, Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) available at any hardware store. A quart of BLO will last any one person about 500 years. To apply thes oils, simply dampen a cotton cloth like a hunk of white tee-shirt. Wipe a light coating onto a wooden fret board starting at the nut end and do each space. By the time you get to end of the fret board take a clean and dry paper towel and wipe off ALL the oil that you applied, and I mean all. If you leave any on the wood, it will cure into a gummy mess, sticky and gooey. You only need to apply BLO about evey 4 to 6 months. A person changes strings about every month or two. I uaed to change strings about like that. Every fourth or fifth change, give the board a drink of BLO. You will be glad you did and your instrument will thank you in its own way. Cheers, Bob
Thanks for the warning- my go-to cleaner is rubbing alcohol for getting off gunk. I wonder if it's ok for the fretboard and the
rest of the guitar (not he label)? I have a Tokai strat-type and a '52 Martin 0017. The Martin I bought in the late 70s from
a guy who had found it at a garage sale and refinished it. He didn't want to (he knew what he was doing and was a musician) but the guitar had been painted black and had no labels. He refinished it with some kind of special laquer that is partly plastic. I'm not sure what but it turned out beautiful. The tone and feel are wonderful, but I always wonder how mush that refinishing cost in terms of tone and also resale value (but I never will sell it so it doesn't matter- when I pass it will go to
my wife or our son!). I did put one crack in it along the edge with a long sad story...let's just say the case (original) is amazing although it needs new upholstery as a cat once peed in it and I had to rip that out. I am also very glad for the warning about olive oil!!! I often use olive oil for cleaning gunk off things, followed up by alcohol. But never on the guitars, fortunately!!!
Sorry about that but if it was me I'd replace it with a Squire logo but then again, I'm kind of a Squire snob...
Ouch! A friend of mine tried cleaning her violin with rubbing alcohol and it pretty much immediately rubbed off the varnish from the area. Scary stuff!
Wow you have really taught me some valuable lessons. I do have an older guitar has some serious issues I’ll get back with you on what to do and what not to do. But let me tell you watching this has really shown me what not to do on my older guitar thank you.
My pleasure Bill. I’m glad you enjoyed it and learnt some stuff :)
Aside from guitar work, I was once a licensed gunsmith in the City of New York. More than once an officer would bring in their service revolver that, literally, was so gummed up that it would not function and, you guessed it, they lubricated it with olive oil.
Can't make this stuff up.
Interesting! I keep meaning to buy a book on gun engraving- Old gun engraving is amazing!
@@BeauHannamGuitars I used to work at Griffin and Howe in the late 70s to early 80s. . My bench position was right next to the engraver. A wonderful memory.
@@patricklozito7042 that’s so cool!!!!!
Sewing machines. Sewing machine oil is cheap and a bottle lasts for years since you only need a few drops every once in awhile. But there’s always that person who tries to use something else and ends up spending a bunch of money getting the machine ungummed. All to save $8 on like five years’ worth of proper oil.
@@littleblackcar I don’t think sewing machine oil dries either? Machine oil is ment to not dry
Citric acid is corrosive and it would have a negative effect any metal parts, including frets. In fact, if you read the ingredients on the bottle, you'll find that most "lemon oils" formulated for guitars don't have any actual citrus products in them, just an artificial lemon scent.
Interesting, thanks! I only use the dunlop cleaner/polish or the music nomad Guitar one on finishes (so no lemon oil)
@@BeauHannamGuitars It's always best to trust personal experience. If it works for you and you know it's reliable, that's what you should go with.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Fender Guitar polish, the original white bottle, has the most petroleum based cleaner. its better than the new recipe. PRS cleaner is crap. Nice work. Great repair, i thought the CY would extreme, but its great.. That is an awful story and product to use. I prefer Viva Italian salad dressing (no the garlic version).. yuk...
Citric acid is... an acid. You only have acids and bases. Both can be corrosive.
@@ShainAndrews Yeah, I did kind of state the obvious with that one...my bad.
Good info Beau. I had a guitar in the shop with the same high spongey frets. And when I checked them randomly over the board most of them had that same green spuge coming out. I sold a re-fret and pulled all the frets swabbed scrapped all the slots with Naphtha several times. let it dry for days and then CA glued all the slots to re-harden the fretboard end-grains. Re-fretted as normal, all went well. But that answers my question on what caused it. Thanks again Beau. Guess we should all like and subscribe!
Taking all the frets out, cleaning with naphtha etc is the best way to do it more more expensive. This worked without having to pull all the frets thankfully. I’ve seen that green grime under filthy fretboards that hadn’t used olive oil.
Clicked to see the problem. Stayed to learn something. Subscribed to support the channel. Great video.
Thanks so much Simon. I hope I can keep you learned :)
Good stuff man. I learned a heckuvalot on the repair and fretting parts, so thanks for sharing your knowlege!
Thanks so much Chris- If you ever need help, give me a call :)- or just call and chat!
I never thought that olive oil could have such a devastating effect on a guitar finish. But I guess there was some cracle in the finish already which made it possible for the oil to penetrate that deep...... and than of course there`s no turning back. Also, depending on the quantity that did penetrate, one can asume that the soundboard`s tone/sustain has changed as well ...... not for the better ! Thanks, it was very educational !
YeP- the cracks were already in the finish and the oil just seeped into those cracks swelling them and staining the wood underneath.
I once used that blue stuff you spray on windows to clean them (called AJAX here in Norway) on my Gibson Les Paul Studio with black finish. It said on the bottle 'can be used on all shiny surfaces'. The finish became all cloudy and dull. First now, many years later and after many rounds of guitar polish, I can say that it is starting to go away. I believe it is the ammonia in the window product that made the problem.
Yep. It’s a bit of a gamble to not simply just use a guitar branded product.
Glad to find a new guitar repair channel. Only watch 3 now. StewMac, twoodfrd and now yours.
Thanks so much!!! Ted and Dan know their stuff :)
New subscriber, love this stuff and appreciate your skill and presentation. Very glad to have found this. From a retired lifelong carpenter/woodworker and custom furniture craftsman who does most of my own guitar work because I can, but I readily defer to a master when it's called for. Often that means I just don't have the specialized tools but I also recognize experienced mastery and true expertise. Respect! Thanks for an enjoyable time.
Thanks :)
Yes- the tools, as you know, are expensive and take time to build a collection. I still buy tools only as I need them for repairs. If you ever need to know something just ask as I might be able to do a video on it :)
When I toured the Gibson factory they mentioned that vinyl guitar straps can also wreck the finish.
Interesting. I want to do that tour
Interesting. Maybe the same thing that happens when you use those transparent vinyl outer covers to protect your LPs. It is now well known that the plasticizers (the stuff that makes the vinyl soft like outer covers, kids swimming toys etc, because the vinyl is originally hard like for instance the LP itself) in soft vinyl can (and will?) outgas over time, migrate through the paper or cardboard cover and attack the LP itself. Symptoms are cloudy appearance of the LP and destroyed sound. Things to watch out for is when the outer protective cover start to wrinkle or clinging to the cardboard cover.
Wow Beau, This was a great video I never would have guessed olive oil was the culprit of that disaster. But it makes sense after you explained He used the oil for a decade. Beautiful guitar & it’s nice to see you back making vids👍👍🎸🎹🎼👨🏻🦯👨🏻🦯
Thanks so much Scott :)
I have an ES 174DL. It's 1974 and pretty rare being a lefty. Took me a while to find and i was a little cautious, Norlin era Gibsons are not usualy my cup of tea but this is a beauty and cleaned properly. Gosh this thing has been killed with kindness, well it wasn't through lack of cleaning. Superb work, thank you.
My pleasure, thanks for watching. Your guitar sounds cool :)
This was great!!!!! I'm getting back into playing guitar at 51, I'm self taught and still learning a tone of stuff, and as I'm not particularly a wealthy man my guitars are kinda cheaper model's, a Peavey raptor, a cruiser by crafter , a swift and a reasonatly brought Ibanez grx, and a few old acoustic. I have one electric guitar that looks real old and has a K on the headstock and made in Japan on the back on a metal stamper, it has a sg look but apart from that I've no clue what model it is. So I'm finding this stuff fascinating and going back on the not wealthy part I'm learning to upkeep my guitars but also fixing my guitars and set ups. So found this super educational, thankyou for your time.
Hi Zippy. Thanks for watching and my pleasure :)
I’ve been doing guitar repair/maintenance for 46 years…ever since I started doing my own maintenance and setups on my instruments, both acoustic and electric. As a gigging professional playing 6/7 nights a week and touring from one location to the next across the country, I couldn’t leave my instruments at a shop because I needed them to play that night. So, I learned by reading and studying books and guitar magazine’s as this was the age before social media and video…yes, hard to believe, no Internet! In all those years I had never heard of using Olive Oil (virgin or not) to clean a guitar, and I’ve seen some strange stuff. Guess it goes to show that even at 70 years young, you never know when you’ll learn or hear about something new! Great video Beau…Scotch Brite pads were/are one of my “secret” and favorite tools: purchased from Stew Mac circa 1977/78…how about that!
Yer thanks think he just wanted his guitar shiny which olive oil would have done but at a cost. There is always new to stuff to learn!
@@BeauHannamGuitars If I am not sure and the item has a finish or some kind of oil on it I use the that same Fed-n-Wax uneless the item is really old and then often I do more a re-sand of the coating that is on it to remove that then start over if I do not know. One item My mom has, a kitchen storage thing that is from the late 1800's you have to use Dutch Oil on, a type of the oil that can't be removed becuse it takes the varnish off too.
I’ve used olive oil before to remove residue from LP switch washers; it’s really unforgiving with the sticky stuff. I’m glad both guitars were poly with no cracks and nothing happened, definitely gonna keep an eye out from now on.
Yep- there is no problem if there is no cracks and it’s all removed before is goes rancid.
Wow I was expecting some harsh chemical compound. Thanks for the info. I hope your video will prevent the destruction of more vintage instruments.
My pleasure :)
Been looking for a product to heavy relic my guitar for a while!! Thanks :D
hahahha
That was a great video, thanks! I do a lot of masking at work, and I thought sticking tape to one's shirt to make it less tacky was my innovation! Nothing is worse than pulling the finish off the 'finished' product. It should be said that lemon oil isn't a drying oil, but it's not like olive oil made of long fatty acids linked by a glycerol backbone. Olive oil slowly oxidizes and makes all sorts of nasty crap instead of polymerizing. Lemon oil contains mostly limonene and beta-pinene, small stable monoterpenes which smell great, soak into wood (protecting it from moisture), and slowly diffuse away over time.* While I've never used drying oils on my fretboards, I'd guess walnut oil would be ok, too. It has a similar composition to linseed oil.
Keep 'em coming Beau, and they'll all sub!
edit:* So, lemon oil doesn't dry out the wood, but the wood does dry as the oil diffuses away over time. Any claim that a product doesn't do this would have to be a drying oil, or such a large molecule it has no vapor pressure and can't evaporate. We don't put much on wood that fits that description, excepting wax and acrylics.
Thanks Troy. Thanks for the oil info. Sometimes I feel like I should have a chemistry degree :)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Chemistry was only my minor. : )
I used Olive Oil on a rash once and was amazed how it NEVER dries…I’d never think of using that.
Then again, I also played minor baseball and learned how ash and maple bats were best treated in extremely dry conditions. Great lessons learned for future guitar care!
Do they use olive oil on dry bats?
Liked and subscribed...good luck sorting that spruce without me! But actually, love the video and the fantastic tips and video itself.
Thanks Dale. I got that spruce sorted but it took a few days
I learned not to use EVO (which I wouldn’t have), but I also liked and subscribed! Great content and work. 👍🏻🤘🏻
Thanks :) with evo gold, you have to prebend it to match the radius of the fretboard (unlike nickle/silver where its best to over bend it slightly. Evo gold is tougher as is stainless steel.
I've used lemon oil on my fretboards for years (only twice a year, though) and haven't had any of them drying out on me. If anything, using too much of it or doing it too often will lead to the fretboard swelling up and warping. That happened to my cousin's Jackson that he cleaned the fretboard on every week.
As it turns out "lemon oil" as used to label fingerboard products is just mineral oil with a lemon scent so nothing to worry about :)-
Learned a ton and had some laughs watching this! Thanks for sharing :)
My pleasure Jordan :) thanks for commenting
Great info. Thank you!
Thank you David
I would never have thought of olive oil as any kind of cleaning agent for my instruments. I've never heard of anyone using it either in all my years of playing and I'm 67 now. Such a shame for this beautiful instrument. So, what was the response from the original owner after your work? Guess I'll never know.
Most customers don’t know/ understand everything a repairer does but I did warn him extensively not to use olive oil and use separate products for the fretboard and body. No idea if it will stick.
Some luthiers use linseed oil on their ebony necks it smelled like poop but it worked well
@@intuneorange I use tung oil, applied once a year on the fretboard.
@@BenState sounds good
The important thing to note is that boiled linseed oil polymerizes, it literally turns to a plastic as it dries and cures. Other oils like olive do not polymerize. They stay as a liquid, and eventually rot and go rancid.
Finishes HAVE to polymerize or at least be stable and hard. Wax, linseed oil, tung oil, spirits or alcohols to carry them, those are all safe.
Thanks :)
...wait are you saying that that guitar is gonna start to stank real bad?? bruh
@@SeanNH94 it probably won’t as the excess was cleaned off but I’m sure if you stick your nose in it you could smell some rank olive oil.
@@SeanNH94 Possibly. More importantly it's not stable, it'll probably be gummy for eternity without completely stripping the thing apart. But I assume that's all per the client.
Wow 😳, thanks for the video. I've not used that, but would not have thought it to be harmful. Good Information to have! 👍
Thanks William. My pleasure .
You can use Naphtha to draw out the oils from the fretboard. I reverse less drastic oversaturated fretboards that way.
Yep- if I’d pull the frets that would have been the way to go, but more $$$
On a vintage instrument, I can see why the collectors would be appalled. As someone with no collector's urge, though, that is a pretty neat look. Probably will always leave you a bit sticky, though, and smelling like Mediterranean food.
I agree. Looks cool to me but it has lost value. Thankfully not everyone is a collector! :)
I think that the real problem was that he wasn't using "authentic" oil. ;D
Great video, thank you!!
Hahahhahaha/ that was the problem!
lol
Shocking results with the Olive Oil! Thanks for the video, nightmare repair job.
Thanks for watching. :)
Spoiler!!! :p
@@LukeABarnes hahahha
Yeah, very detailed quality information....liked and subscribed!
Hi Richard- thanks so much. I probably go overboard with info but i like to teach as much as i can. Thanks for the like and subscribe- it means alot to me )
@@BeauHannamGuitars well, as a guitarist, with many guitars, I would rather work on my own instruments, yet lack a real in depth knowledge. Just a fantastic episode and look forward to more while catching up on previous bids. Peace
7 mins in, i guessed some kind of Oil, but something really invasive to Wood finishes like Rape seed Oil or Olive Oil. I'll watch till the end to see if i was correct. I've been around the block a few times too and have seen similar catastrophes.
Great guess! You were correct :)
I don't make guitars but I make other wood stuff - peppermills and cutting boards and such - and had a professional interest in what happened here. Olive oil? Never used it or thought to use it. But now I know.
Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching. My pleasure. What do you seal peppermills with???
@@BeauHannamGuitars
Use shellac for sealing the internals - what the food/spices actually touch - because it has to be food safe. But the outside is usually some kind of polyurethane or polish - it's quite safe as long as it's dried and cured.
@@ollieox9181 Interesting!- Any woodworker can teach any other woodworker something.
Thanks for sharing your insight. It all helps - I maintain my sons guitars and equipment although I know where to stop and hand over to a luthier or amp specialist - generally anything beyond a set up :) It's still useful to know this stuff, especially the products and glues. Subscribed.
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing- both mean so much to me (and every other video maker). Rule of thumb is to just use a product made for the job (i have heaps of links to the fretboard oils and cleaners that are most commonly used- they are cheap and last for ages.
Not only did I like and subscribe but I shared it with my daughters and Grandson.
Thank you so much Ellen :) nice to meet you
Olive oil -not only doesn't dry, but has a high acid content. That's why I use it on cast iron skillets, before re-seasoning them. That guitar *should* be refinished, if anyone thinks it's worth the expense, although it may be too late.
I doubt the current owner will get that done- maybe the next owner in a few decades :)
First time here - you’re pretty funny, but I really enjoyed watching the entire video to see how you resolved this type of damage.
I’d be interested to know how long it took for the damage to happen - like weeks? Months? Years? Does the customer have photos dating back to when he started polishing his guitar with this household product so we can see the progression of the damage?
I’d also be interested in knowing why he used this type of oil to begin with. People do stuff like this to try saving money by using something they already have around the house or because they are too lazy to go buy the proper products. Other times, people genuinely don’t know what to use so they decide what makes sense on their own without getting any advice.
The answers to these questions could make for an interesting follow-up video if he’s willing to participate. Understanding what led up to the customer using this type of oil and how long it may have taken for the damage to occur would be a very valuable lesson in addition to your video’s warning to only use cleaners/conditioners/etc specially made for guitars.
I hope he doesn’t have damage on any other guitars he might own. So glad you were able to fix this guitar up to the best of your ability. Great job!
Hi Masha- thanks and welcome!!!
Those are all excellent questions, none of which I know the answer to. I presume he just wanted his guitar shiny which the olive oil achieved but at a cost. I hope this was clear in the video (let me know) but the oil didn’t cause the cracks- that was just typical nitro checking from a 1965 guitar. The oil seeped into those cracks and gave that “wetted” look in the wood (under the finish) on either side of the crack. The oil did cause swelling and build up around the cracks which is most obvious on the headstock.
I’ll do a follow up video if I see the guy again (he is a university professor btw)
Nice work, Kudos from Vancouver. I'll share a couple of tips for the viewers; I tape off the sharp edge of an Olfa blade, and use that as my poor man's fret rocker. You can obviously break them for a 3 fret reach. Second, for a dead blow shock absorber, I filled a sleeve from a ruined leather jacket quite full with sand and sewed up the ends. Works great. Cheers everyone
Also, You can get those fret rockets cheap on eBay and flatten them on a sharpening stone.
This reminds me of the time decades ago when a friend and I were playing guitars around a campfire. He had sprayed his arms with Off, a brand of mosquito repellant, on to his forearms, then played his Martin D-28 with his bare arms on the body. It ate the varnish on the guitar. When he noticed it, he asked me what to do and I suggested he use his CLEAN finger to smooth out the now liquified finish. After it dried, it was not bad at all - it only needed some light polishing with white polishing compound. My guitar was finished with a modern "plastic" type finish, but bug spray will destroy a lacquer finish.
One day I’ll do experiments with that stuff.
yes, DEET is a very good solvent and will dissolve all kinds of things and melt many kinds of plastic so I'd keep it away from anything I cared about. I've heard of many cases where people had it on their hands and it dissolved all the printed labels on things like expensive cameras.
@@stephenshoihet2590 I should get a list going of products that kill finishes!
Real lemon oil just might dry out your fretboard, who knows. Those two products, the Jim Dunlop and Music Nomad, they’re not lemon oil, meaning they’re not oil extracted from lemons. It’s lemon scented mineral oil. Mineral oil is very neutral, so it’s good for moisturizing the fretboard two or three times a year. That’s all you need.
Yep- I wasn’t sure if music nomad mean are saying real lemon oil dries out wood (which is does) or that the Dunlop fretboard lemon oil (lemon scented) dries it out. I think they mean real lemon oil but leave it to others to conclude they are really talking about Dunlop type stuff.
I’ve been using orange oil for years on fretboards. I haven’t found ANYTHING that works half as well… never tried mineral oil.
@@sir118 smells good
Too!
@@pandaman1968well, personally I use Orange-Glo. I wouldn’t recommend that to anyone… but I use it.
If it was my guitar I’d go ahead and have it refinished. I’m not a big fan of refinishing vintage instruments, but in this case it really needed it.
Its really not a problem once the gumminess was cleaned. The "Ruined" part is really only for vintage resale at top dollar. But its a shame the oil stained the wood so much.
Probably would have had the customer wanted to pay for it... I know that I would as well.
@Reg hahahhaha extreme relic but spell it ReliX
I enjoyed the video, and have done what you've asked. Liked and subscribed. Enjoy the day
Thank you so much David- I hope you enjoy my content
Liked and Subbed, great video! Thanks Beau
Thanks so much Dan :)
An opinion: if it were me, I would absolutely suggest a full refinish for that guitar at some point. The original clear is just so destroyed and not doing anything to protect the wood anymore. It’s worth has already been so hurt by what the customer did to it a proper refin would make it a better player and last so many more years.
Love the content sir!
Thanks so much. I doubt the owner will ever get it refinished as he just wants to play it. Perhaps the next owner will.
I strongly disagree. The price of a full refin will be high and as silly as it sounds it will devalue the guitar even more than it is devalued now. The wood itself is old and it doesn't need protection anymore, the sap inside crystalized long time ago and it will not move or crack exposed to normal use. I would suggest to just play ot and not put any more money into it than absolutely necessery
Or at the least do a Clear Coat over the stuff there.
The texture would bother me, I'd probably just sand it all down and stain/paint and seal it.
@@kirksneckchop7873 the texture would be annoying. maybe one day it will get refinished.
What would you recommend for matte finishes? I have a ESP LTD EC1000 in "vintage matte black", it picks up finger grease really easy and a dry cloth doesn't always get it, from what I've read you can't use any of those products cause you will end up putting a satin finish on it almost or something like that. I want to keep it as matte as possible while still actually being able to touch it lol no point in having it if you cant play it. I love the look of it, matte black with gold hardware and inlays. I've had a few les pauls but they never suited my playing stuff and were heavy and thick as hell, this one is nice and thin and light. I think the next guitar I get will either be a RG Prestige or the one of the MH line by ESP. I love ESPs super strat style guitars, so beautiful.
Music nomad had a Matt finish spray cleaner but I’ve never used it.
@@DamageJackyl Matt finishes are sprayed on top of gloss finishes so 90% of the finish is gloss. Only 1 or 2 coats of Matt are applied on top so it’s very easy to ware through the Matt.
This was super interesting and informative!! I really appreciate and respect the taken with detail work!! Man, it's been a minute since I've heard an OG MIG Muff!!! Still on the fence to like/subscribe......SIKE!!!👊🤙
Thanks so much :) I love the big muff sound!- I played this pedal soooo much in the 1990’s (I borrowed this one as mine is back in Australia)
I thought it was Jeyes fluid. Thanks for making this presentation, good stuff.
Thank you :)
I started buying Stew Mac tools until I discovered Crimson Guitars had started making their own tools, they are excellent quality and not quite as expensive as Stew Mac and a great alternative
Stew Mac have a lifetime guarantee which is nice to have. I’ve not seen any crimson guitars tools but will look as I’m
A curious beast.
Worth looking into, stewmac is so expensive
I've found that it's perfectly safe to use olive oil on your instruments as long as you immediately follow it up with a generous amount of vinegar and a couple dashes of salt and pepper.
And yes, liked and subscribed!
Hahahhahah- that’s true!
Salt and Peper?
@@caseysmith544 And sometimes a pinch of Italian herbs!
Don't forget the oregano
@@derrickthornbury6638 hahahah
My first watch, very interesting and yes I've liked and subscribed.
Thanks so much :)
Great video mate, very watchable.
Thanks Niq.
It wouldn’t have occurred to me to use that oil. I use artist linseed on my fretboards, works excellent for years. I wouldn’t buy anything with any nitro finishes, seeing customers guitars you can see they’re a waking nightmare to look after
I went to art school so probably should know but artist linseed oil is probably (maybe) boiled linseed oil as it dries.- ie the paint dries.
@@BeauHannamGuitars boiled linseed oil is what he meant.
And contrary to what a lot of people will tell you, it has NOTHING to do with the tone of an ELECTRIC guitar...🤣🤣🤣
The clown was creepy and no, you didn’t have to put it in. Great advice to discuss the problems with the customer. Thanks for all the little tips throughout.
hahah- thanks Steve.
I have been a player for over 60 years, and my favorite body cleaner/polish, is Parker & Bailey's "Furniture Cream" with Lemon Oil. Nothing harsh, and no odor, or very little. I used to used Formby's Lemon Oil on rosewood and ebony fingerboards, but that is no longer on the market as a regular product.I use a variety of lemon oils and fretboard liquids, but I def do not drown my boards. Put a drop on every other space, rub it into the entire board and let it set for 10-15 minutes. If it still looks dry, add a bit more; if it is still wet, wipe off the residue.ES-175's are great guitars, but not edible!
I’ve not seen furniture cream so can’t comment on it. If only guitars were edible!
What a GREAT FREE LESSON thank you.
My pleasure :)
I can remember walking into the great Jimmy Daquisto's shop in Huntington long Island. He was quite upset
Because the Lemon Pledge he was using to polish off his guitar had started to eat through the Finish he said the old Pledge worked fine and didn't damage the Finish I think he had to refinish a guitar for a very demanding customer
Ouch- refinishing is always horrible. The current pledge has silicone in it. But not all the pledge products
@@BeauHannamGuitars
French polish is a good way to go
@@intuneorange FP is a very nice finish but needs care. Probably the best combo is FP top and thin polyurethane everywhere else.
@@BeauHannamGuitars I wouldn't buy a new Gibson guitar because I don't like their finish it feels unnatural although I've had guitars with very thick finishes that came from Brazil my Luthier friend said it was so moist down in Brazil that they had learned to make a thicker finish for their General business Giannini guitars. I know Jimmy DAquisto would you use linseed oil on his fingerboards and the people complained about the smell .
And I had a guild guitar from the mid-70s and the Finish smelled like fake vanilla I had to compound it and keep it out of the case which is something I don't like to do for that finish to vape off it took a long time
My daughter brought for me a Gibson's finish spray cleaner I use eventually and in soft way.
For some time I frequently refinished my wooden kitchen tabletop with "The Product". After some time I found it more and more difficult to clean.
It got so bad, I decided to scrape "the finish" all off. Wow...the moment of shame. What a horrible half dried gunk. Like a thin layer of chewing gum. I had to scrape quite deep into the wood, over a period of 2 days, to get rid of that sticky nastiness. I now know the difference between olive oil and linseed oil. In fact I know it very well.
That sounds horrible!
Loved this video Beau!
Thanks so much Aaron :)- I can’t wait to get back to Hawaii!!!
I would suggest a trick I use when reseating frets with similar issues. Hold a warm hair-dryer at the right distance to just warm up the crud till it weeps out. A couple of passes will reduce the floating residue you have to scrape off with the AC glue and will ensure a firm set with no compromised bonding agent. Don't get it too hot or you'll cook the finish or warp the neck. Take it nice and slow and you'll get a great result.
Interesting! Thanks. You can also use a soldering iron on the frets to get heat down into the slots
The hairdryer method can be very effective on violin and cello necks and every other stringed instrument neck that is not varnished
In case you don't want to wait skip to 33:30, FYI its olive oil. Only an idiot would do that anyway.
The owner is a smart guy (a university professor)- none of us know everything and I assume he just wanted the guitar shiny so it achieved that but at a cost.
my 2 cents
Olive oil will also oxidise and go rancid. Neither a good look nor a good smell.
I've always regarded polishing lacquer type finishes as a foolish endeavour, even with products marketed supposedly for that purpose. Instead clean with slightly damp cloth, perhaps a small trace of detergent and dry promptly.
Use a liquid or paste wax if you really must demand a shine but do not apply to cracked or checked surfaces.
Avoid products with silicon content, if silicon gets into timber you can forget ever successfully refinishing it.
BTW, technically linseed and tung oils don't dry, they harden/cure.
Thanks Richard.
Loved it mate, great video.
Thanks Philip :)
After the clown part in knew is has to be a great channel,
Liked and subscribed!
Hahah- all it takes is a clown joke! Cheers. I try to get some humor into my videos
The look of what I strongly suspect was restraint when you gave the reveal :-D I NEVER saw that coming - what a shame. A nice balsamic and apply-with-spinach jokes aside, thanks for sharing all your tips along the way - fortunately, my finger hasn't atrophied to the point where I can't fast forward, nor my will power not to give in to the need for immediate gratification. They are well-worth the time, whether they enlighten, confirm, or just entertain.
Hahahahhah- much restraint! It was a bit of a head scratcher but I bet it did make the guitar shiny! :)
Food grade oils will turn rancid and seep into the grain of the wood.
Spongy is a good description.
I worked on a Gibson LGO last year that was done the same way. So sad because it ruined the guitar.
The neck had become so unstable it was un playable.
Yikes!- luckily the ca seemed to have fixed this one.
@@BeauHannamGuitars It was so bad even I turned it down when he offered it to me and I usually will take anything because I can fix it.
The gray and white scotchbrite can be purchased at automotive paint stores. Great video.
Good to know thanks
Nice video. Where in Aus are you? I'm surprised the olive oil hasn't gone rancid TBH, especially if you are up north with the heat and humidity... As for fretboard oils. I've never used BLO, but on very dry boards, when I have the time, I use Feast Watson Orange Oil. It does polymerise, but slowly (I'm guessing the oil is tung), so it soaks in. It is also food grade, which is important for a fretboard I think. The guitar shop lemon oils like Dunlop 65 dry very quickly, so I'd think they have a high proportion of solvent in them.
I live in Colorado (US of Aaaaaa) now but I’m from Mona vale, Sydney.
@@BeauHannamGuitars From the northern beaches to the Rocky Mountains! Nice work mate. I still can't believe someone would rub olive oil all over their axe. SMH...
Apparently when heard that you are supposedly to regularly oil the fret board he didn't realize that you can't use just any oil on it. Now I can't see why he would have coated the whole guitar in olive oil, even if he used the right type of fretboard oil it wouldn't make sense to use it on the whole guitar unless it was also raw wood.
Yep- I think he just wanted a shiny guitar mostly. Most people have no idea if an oil dries or not.
Olive oil will turn rancid over time and should never be used on a guitar.
I have worked on hundreds of guitars that people mess up and olive oil is one of the products that has no business being near a guitar.
@@richardturk7162 yep
@@richardturk7162 yep
Great video, must say I like the heavily cracked finish but the olive oil in the wood is a shame.
Thanks for telling me 6 times to like and subscribe over the course of this video.
Had you said it once, I probably would have considered it, but after the 3rd time it was just annoying. Imagine how annoying that would've been had I already been a subscriber...
Thanks- glad you liked the video- I’ll cut back in the please subscribe stuff- maybe once every 20 mins instead of every 10 :)
Once at the beginning and once at the end is plenty
Written by someone who never considered people used time-stamp hyperlinks or skip chapters on longer vids but then mooches free info.
Nontheless, 6 times over the course of an otherwise well crafted and structured 40 minute video is annoying.
And nobody's mooching free info here - it's a free-to-use platform.
That ain’t olive oil!
Great content!! I subscribed, and liked!! What is your opinion of Stainless Steel frets when replacing a worn neck of frets?
Thanks and thanks :)
I’ve only installed Stainless steel twice and I had no trouble with them in any way. Just pre bend the fretwire to the same radius of the fingerboard- softer fret wire it’s better to over bend them slightly so the ends stick down.
I just just use a vacuum clearner to pick up all the filings. Quick, tidy and easy, it gets everything up from the workbench too. Then I'll use a fretboard cleaner and then a fretboard conditioner.
I have an old ES-175 with a single PAF neck pickup. That is a seriously "reliced" finish. 😂Never would have guessed the product that caused the problem.
FYI - Some Scotch-Brite pads/sponges have metal in them. "Products use several variations of hardening and abrasive materials, such as aluminum oxide (alumina), titanium dioxide and resins." Wikipedia
Good to know about the scotch brite- thanks
I had a terrible experience with a guitar stand "rubber" padding and a Dobro steel guitar. It literally dissolved the varnish.
Me too.
@@BeauHannamGuitars Really? I was explained that the composition of the varnish and of whatever plastic was around the support reacted together. I can't believe they can sell those... but that's what it is. It didn't do anything to my Martin or any electric guitars fortunately. I would assume the Dobro varnish was different.
@@thornil2231 They have probably fixed this problem but who knows- Also sometimes glues in a case or something can effect the nitro. Nitro is a delicate baby!
@@BeauHannamGuitars You obviously know what you are talking about and I don't. Nitro is a name I remember. I threw the stand away and haven't had any problem with the others. When you said you had the same problem, with it with a Dobro?
@@thornil2231 it wasn’t a dobro. A truck is/was to wrap the foam area in an old T-shirt or something but I think the foam is better quality on stands now.
Another really informative video! I won't spoil the surprise, but suffice to say I was really shocked at the damage done by what you would imagine was a reasonably innocuous product!
I'm already subscribed, but I have liked!
Pity I'm in England, 'cos despite the like & subscribe thing I'd love to come and sort through all those tops!
Incidentally, what you played at the end wasn't Jazz. For it to be Jazz you would need a piano, bass and drums with you, ALL PLAYING DIFFERENT TUNES!!!
Hahahah- thanks Phil. I though it was jazz could it sounded out of key and time etc ;)
Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure :)
I actually like the aged look on that guitar. Surprised he didn't use Turtle wax.
I like a good relic of too :)
Another olive oil don’t: don’t use it on cutting boards or salad bowls. Use a food safe mineral oil. Olive oil will go rancid.
Good advice
mineral oil on cutting boards .... wood ones
I liked and subscribed. I used to work in a bicycle shop in Athens Ohio (home of Stew Mac)...had a customer come in that lubed his chain in olive oil...ruined the disc brakes and made a total mess!
Thanks :) wow- seems olive oil should never leave a kitchen
Thanks Beau,,brilliant work,,just subscribed,,,,with the bell!
The bell!!!!!! I always forgot to mention the bell “like and subscribe” roll off the tongue but no one likes mentioning the bell. But thank you so much. I hope to keep you entertained for many a year.
Hey! A fellow Luthier from Colombia here. Just to anyone who reads: vegetable oils are a NO GO. remember people is not just ruining the finish is also that they decompose! Taking with them the wood of your beloved instrument.
Mineral and petroleum based are an extensive topic, some do some harm some are ok some are great just do some research.
Have you ever tried mineral oil and bees wax on a fretboard?
@@edscmidt5193 hi! well as i said mineral oil is an extensive topic but yes you can use it, actual store products such as Dunlop "lemon" oil are just some sort of lemon scented mineral oil, wax is something you should really think about... in one hand it does protect the wood but it also seals it completely, is better to just stick to proven stuff (just my opinion and what i tell my customers).
if you wanna go with something in between it is ok to use polymerizable oils, such as Teka oil or lineseed/Boiled lineseed. remember to just use a little, too much of ANY oil is harmful, just start with little and add little by little till you see the wood doesn't take it as fast that is the sweet spot, then just rub the fretboard with a REALLY clean rag till is all the same (texture, brightness, etc.) never use your hands direcltly on the wood, always use some sort of rag, cotton/microfiber towel) when done let her rest for about an hour and check again, correct with the oiled rag if anything seems odd, let it rest again till next day.
if done correctly your fretboard should be hydrtated and also has a really good polymer protecting it depending on the oil, brand, etc. it can last from 6 months up to 2 years, best of all the wood can still breathe (gas and humidity exchange with the enviroment) which means it will remain healthy and flexible enough to take the preasure from both the strings and the truss rod.
personally when customers request such treatment i prefer Teka oil, but that is just my way.
Best regards Ed.
@@johanherrera6413 thanks for the great info, I highly appreciate it
So was any of this actually damaging to the structural or acoustic integrity of the wood? Is it literally just a cosmetic effect that is being complained about?
Cosmetic, which on a vintage guitar is as bad for resale value as structural (kinda)
@@BeauHannamGuitars Thanks, I wasn't sure it it was dangerous for the wood or not.
I would love to see a full refinish on that
Next time :)
Great video! Subscribed
Thanks so much Juan
Lemon oil will dry out wood, that is a fact, but what we call lemon oil for fretboards is actually lemon oil extract, not lemon oil
Good to know for sure. Ive never personally witnessed it but im sure its true.
What I have on my shelf that says lemon oil is actually mineral oil that has had lemon peel oil added to it. I haven't lemon oiled a fretboard for 12 years or so. I use it for cleaning old furniture,
I've used Pledge furniture polish forever when cleaning my guitars, usually on a string change. Works great and smells good too.
I've never used it. I just stick with products designed (and labeled) for use on instruments bodies and fingerboards as its just safer. You never know if something has silicon in it or acetone etc.
@@BeauHannamGuitars I hear you. The reason i use Pledge is because i learned that from my uncle about 40 years ago. That's what he used to clean his guitars with so i did too when i started playing. No noticeable problems in 40 years.
I second that. I used pledge as a kid, since cleaner was not available. Either Windex or...Pledge. I have the new 1982 guitar still, and finish is perfect. Ok, its worn and chipped, but no finish damage. Pledge is 100% safe. I mean its furniture, with strings.lol
I use pledge too! Revitalizing oil, and only on fingerboards. I was taught by my dad that musical instruments like pianos and guitars are, technically, furniture. Even with furniture, it's important to be careful what you use on what. I get a little bit of white wax build up in the deep pores of the fretboard but the wood itself looks and feels great.
@@Mike28625 Pledge has silicon in it- don't use it. See it here- www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/1395-PledgeFurnitureSprayLemonClean/
Hey there! The protektor model rabbit ear rest is made in my hometown- Galeton, Pennsylvania. It was started by a guy named pappy many years ago, now they are made in a small family shop the last I knew.
Very cool!- that neck rest is my favorite- nice and heavy and soft :)
first time viewer and what an interesting video you made, well done.
Thanks so much :) -
Great relic job.
I'll use olive oil on all my guitars.
Hahahahha
That "Product Reveal" TOTALLY surprised me! I never expected that the product was going to turn out to be Olive Oil!
I thought for sure that the product was going to turn out to be one of the popular Furniture Polishes or something! 🙂
But OLIVE OIL????!!! WOW!!! I would NEVER think of EVEN ATTEMPTING to apply Olive Oil to any stringed instrument that I've owned through the years! WAY TOO OILY, and as you said, it NEVER dries!!
It's a shame that the finish of that Guitar has become so badly damaged, but it was great that you were able to stabilize the finger board as well as you did!!
I just became a new subscriber btw; and I look forward to more of your fine Luthiery videos!
Highest Regards!
Ron H.
Abilene, Texas USA.
Thansk so much Ron. Yep I was surprised to! My wife used to live in Abilene !
I have been using a motorcycle cleaner. It used to be called Honda, but now it is called "Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner & Polish". I thought I was the only person who used that but then I saw a can of it on the shelf of some well-known builder. I may have to re-think whether this is appropriate for my new Taylor.
Maybe they use it on their Honda.? I’d just stick with products made for the job (I included links to everything I use in the video)
Awesome info Bro!☝
Thanks!!
Remember, boys and girls, olive oil is for guitars with Venetian cutaways and grapeseed oil is for guitars with Florentine cutaways!😉
Hahahhahah
What a Horror Show! Creepy Clown, Stew Mac Prices, a Guitar finish reminiscent of Karloff's Mummy and then a Soft Case! I would not be surprised if that Guitar was actually acquired by Grave Robbing! 💀
I have a lovely ES-175T from 1976. They only made the Thin Models for three years, hence the T. It was a Light Natural Blonde when I got it. Now it's a rich Tobacco. Seems to get darker every time I look. Opening the case with Friends is kind of an event because of the Patina changing. Luckily, up to now, the only wrinkle is the one I'm sitting on.
I did use Pledge when I was young, so I feel for this poor Dude. Now I use Dunlop and must say I love the smell of that stuff. They should enter the Men's Hygiene Market. To think of it I use to wear a Woman's Fragrance, Paco Rabane Eau de Metal because it smelled like Guitar Strings. They stopped making it unfortunately. Another weird thing I do is put a Vanilla Air freshener in those Guitar case compartments. When you open the case everyone is like Wow, your Guitar smells so nice. Now, that I've seen this I'm scared a little though.
hahahahhahah- I didn't think anyone would see that soft case right at the end!- i should have an award for you (perhaps a soft case you can throw in the trash!!! hahahh)
@@BeauHannamGuitars My Friend tells me "Hey, You gotta try these new Soft Cases. I saw a video where they threw a Guitar off a Roof and the Guitar was OK." I checked and sure enough I'm sold. Had one for a top end Takimine.
In a Cafe it almost fell over and this Woman flew out of her Chair to grab it. Wow, thanks I said but this is one of those new Soft Cases. You could throw it off a Roof. Here I tossed the Guitar into the Air. Baaadooooonk. The Sound that came out of that thing. Amazingly the Guitar was fine though and went right back in the Hard Case when I got home.
Liked and subscribed. Good stuff!
Thanks so much Fred
Solid content, earned my sub cheers!
Thank you so much. It means a lot Rod :)