ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2023
- Today we're checking out the Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro. 500mm/s print speed at 20K acceleration, let's find out what makes it tick.
You can find the Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro at our shop here: www.3djake.com/anycubic-3d-pr...
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Interested in seeing how fast you can print at which layer height with a 26mm³/s volumetric flow? Check out this calculator here: www.modernmakes.ca/3d-printin...
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Beautiful explanations. I watched a 15 minute video explaining filament types and that's all I know, you explained it perfectly and I did buy a kobra 2 pro on sale yesterday. Once again amazing explanation for beginners and first time buyers with benchmark prints galore and honest and unfiltered comparisons! Beautiful job! Have my subscription 😂
Very complete review, not most videos do this.
Love the review-- It helped me settle on upgrading to this machine from my Anycubic i3 Mega. I'm just having issues figuring out which slicer to use and how to set it up optimally. For my first few prints I have just used Cura (it's what i'm comfortable with) and I had mixed results on lower speeds (80-100mm/s) and terrible results on a higher speed (300mm/s). Did you get better results from the PrusaSlicer or the Anycubic slicer?
Ah nice!!! So I haven't actually tried this with Cura but I have with Anycubic Slicer and Prusa Slicer. Anycubic Slicer is fine, it's incredibly similar to Prusa Slicer but I have all of my other printers on Prusa Slicer so I used that. Anycubic figured that people would use a third party slicer so they actually have a profile on their website for Prusa Slicer so download that and get it going. I have had excellent results with it :)
I am new at TH-cam, and I saw your video, really great! I liked that you provided many test prints;-) How long does it take to heat up the print bed and nozzle? I am not sure if it has a ceramic heater element (maybe 40Watts) and an insulated pad underneath the print area.
I would also like to ask if we can quick swap the nozzle (or doesn’t it have a dotherboard with the hotend‘s and Thermistor‘s connectors?
Looking forward to your reply.
It definitely has more than 40 watts, heat up time is quite quick, easily quicker than most. The heated bed is actually not insulated on the underside. Technically you could install a quick swap hotend like a Revo but it would be a big design job. The printhead has a daughterboard and the hotends connections are pretty standard
Are they still locked down to Anycubic cloud for wireless printing, or can they now be used without internet ? I also understand the firmware is closed even though its based on klipper. I didn't think they are allowed to do that?
Thank you so much for the review! It's quite complete. How is the noise for you? Can you sit in the same room with it while it prints? Kobra 2 had complaints, is this any better?
Its bearable but its definitely louder than other printers, same volume as the Kobra 2
Hi, I wanted to ask you something: I wanted to upgrade from my current MegaX to the Kobra 2 Pro. Is ot worth it (will i see a big difference) or should i look for something else?
Also great video
Yeah the Kobra 2 Pro is light years ahead of the Mega X. You'll see a huge difference. If you want to use the same filament that you did with the Mega X then I would recommend it. But if you want to print more technical filament then something else would be better.
@@3DJake_Official thank you!
How do u set cam on this printer? Thanks
Hi Jake, thanks for a great video. I am absolutely new to 3D printing and opted straight for the Kobra 2 Pro and glad that I did. I've been able to print out the test files but that's as far as it goes. You can only throw around so many spiders.
I bought a second hand Makerbot Digitizer and am able to create the 3D image files using Makerware but the files save as Makerbot_auto_file or thing_auto_file and I can't seem to find a converter to produce a printable model file. The system I'm using is Windows 11 but at a push I could dig out an old iMac 2004 to try to use fusion 360 but I'm reluctant to go down that route. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hmm not that familiar with Makerware but I think you can only open those files using Makerbot print and there should be an export to stl using that program....I think... I'm not entirely sure.
Hi Jake thanks for the reply. I've worked around an answer to the problem. Scan with Makerbot Digitizer, save the makerbot file into MY Things as a Makerware file, save that into whichever folder you are saving your files to as an STL file. Import this file into the Slicer of your choice (Prusa/Cura) [I've used both]. Then Slice into G Code to print.
Thanks again for your time and great Vids. John.
@@johnjenkins3248 Ah nice! Glad you got it working!
Thanks for the review. A how-to video to swap colors would be great. I've hunted around the I've the internet and some people have been posting saying that programming in a pause isn't an easy thing. Being very new to all this I recognize some people have difficulties and if it is possible to swap filament for a new color on a new layer that a video would help lots of people and likely get lots of views.
I just tested it and unfortunately it doesn't support filament swap commands from slicers. We're actually doing a short video involving filament swaps this week. I think you're right, it would be useful to do a little video about what printers actually do support filament swaps and how to use it.
@@3DJake_Official maybe a firmware update from anycubic to fix this?
That would be nice, they have done a couple of firmware updates already so hopefully in the next one
Which of the two machines (Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and Anycubic Kobra 2 Max) is better for a professional and long lasting use, mostly printing PLA or PETG. I was looking for a good larger format printer with great details and precision at higher speeds…
Probably the Neptune 4 Max, it has much better cooling and a higher temperature hotend
I’ve been wanting to get a 3D printer for a while. This printer seems like the one, but I’m not sure what type of things you can print with the type of filaments you specified. I’m thinking replacement parts for stuff and things like that. What does one normally print with those types of filaments?
You can print PLA, PETG, and TPU. PLA is normally used for cosmetic items but can also be used for items which don't require that much strength, things that don't carry a huge amount of weight you could print from PLA. PETG is stronger though so we would recommend that for higher strength. TPU is flexible so there are limited uses for it but its incredibly tough.
You can also get PLA Plus filament which is PLA but stronger so easy to print and hard wearing too.
According to the Judgement of the Oratrice Mecanique D’Analyse Cardinal
Ive got 2 standard kobra 2 printers and often get layer shifts running the latest 3.0.6 filmware,Can you make a video on difference between the 2 printers (kobra 2 vrs kobra 2 pro) and possibly matching the 2 printer speed maybe with klipper being installed on the non pro version?
Thanks
I don't think its possible to install klipper on the Kobra 2 without swapping the board. Really the only difference between the two is the speed and the touchscreen, everything else is pretty much the same.
Hi I have to make a choice in your opinion which 3D printer is better between the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and the Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro?
Really depends on your use - If you only use PLA get the Kobra 2 Pro. If you use other materials get the Neptune 4 Pro
Thank you for the great video!
My Kobra 2 Pro starts by printing a vertical thin line 4 cm from left, then a thick line along the bottom edge, then starts printing. It seems to do the same in the review videos I watched. The vertical line may overlap with the actual printing area for a big print. Is there a way to make it print the first line near the left edge?
That line is called a purge line, many 3d printers use them because theyre quite useful: u dont need a skirt to clean the nozzle before printing
this line is achieve by additional gcode added by your slicing software
You can easily modify that!
Search for "purge line gcode" you'll find instructions on how to do that
Yes... Man up, deepen your voice and "TELL" it not to do it... Failing that take up knitting Herr Ponce.
I've got a Kobra 2 max and it's really hard to calibrate. The thing is under extruding on the first layer and over extruding on the top layer. The Standard Profile was over extruding like crazy. Do I don't know if I would say it's beginner friendly. On the other hand it is crazy fast and really really big.
That sounds like a z offset issue.
@@aminorinternet it absolutely was. The problem is that you have to calibrate the "smart z offset" by hand. You can do so for x and y by using the interface but z is calibrated with a screw and eyeballing... You still can set the z offset but it needs to be set after each auto leveling and can be different for different materials and bed temps.
What slicer did you use I can’t seem to get mine to work with this printer
We used Prusa Slicer, Anycubic have a profile on their website
I want to grade my printing up from my ender 3 v2 to a Neptune 4 pro or a anycubic Kobra 2 pro or a Sovol sv07 but I can’t decide which of these printers ist the best
I think the Kobra 2 Pro would be the best, it is fast, works with other slicers really well, the major downside is the nozzle limitations.
@@3DJake_Official ok thank you very much for your recommendation
Jake I am confused, my 10 year old son asked about the Kobra, is this the Kobra, Kobra 2 or Kobra 2 Max, we bought him a printer two years ago and had no luck with it and I want to make sure he can build Iron man helmets without size problems or too much extruder clogging
This one here is the Kobra 2 Pro, its pretty average size and wouldn't be quite suitable for printing a helmet in one go, the model would have to be split up, printed separately and then glued together. The Kobra 2 Plus would be better for this: www.3djake.com/anycubic-3d-printer-and-accessories/kobra-2-plus
But a lot of helmets are designed to be multipart models. Often this is easier especially when it comes to painting.
The Kobra max would be a bit overkill I think in terms of size.
this is good info thank you! He can do it in parts. Which of the two you mentioned would you recommend if he is doing multi part?
And really thank you man!
Over all I mean quality etc. Is the Kobra 2 Plus good?
@@theericmirandashow Yeah quality is good on the Plus version but the average speed would be lower. For most multipart designs the Pro version would be enough, have a look at some of the designs on thingiverse and printables and see what their max size is, you'll see most multiparts can be printed on just the smaller pro version
I think this will be my first printer. The other option is the creality k1. Is the k1 worth the extra ££?
The K1 is enclosed and has a high temperature hotend so you can print a lot of different filaments on it that are not possible with the Kobra 2 Pro. But if that is not important to you then I would recommend the Kobra 2 Pro
I think it is. Better in everything. The only downside of the k1 is price and the fact it is even louder than this one...
Not to mention that kobra 2 is freezing mid-print on long prints... Anycubic is working on it now, yesterdays fw update 2.3.9 looks like might have solved it.. hopefully :)
Thanks. I ended up with a great deal on a k1. I'm very impressed with it
do not regret it... I just failed my last 5 large prints on the Anycubic and successfully printed them all on k1...@@ifonlyiwerebelgian
i’m going to get this for my first ever 3D printer, any insight?
definitely use prusa slicer with it, not the anycubic slicer. There is a profile for download on the anycubic website
What is the full size of this printer? I was wondering if it will fit where I want it.
it is about 520x680mm with a 1kg spool loaded and the max extension of the bed back and forth
Anycubic kobra 2 pro or Ender 3 s1 for the first printer?
Definitely the Kobra 2 Pro.
Does it have an auto resume option for unexpected power supply shortage?
Is I own 2 kobra 2 pros actually but doesn’t resume when power cuts off.subjects me to destroy prints and waste material s
Unfortunately, it does not have an auto-resume function :(
correction, the new firmware actually does have a power loss recovery function
What are the main differences between this one and the Kobra 2?
mostly speed. The kobra 2 pro is twice as fast
@@3DJake_Official as long its just speed i will go with the kobra 2. Thanks for the reply!
@@ozersari8315 There are some other differences like the screen, Anycubic app but it is just the speed that is the main difference
Better than the Ender 3 KE?
yeah I have the same question
did you get any answer?
Can it print a Mando mask full size?
No not in one go, you would have to split it up.
how did he slip a Genshin reference into a 3D printer review?
You're sponsored? Most of the benefits you list are not actually available. This company has huge issues with their remote/wifi printing. The only way is works is via their app on a Chinese server. This app is not reliable, and when it works it's slow. Your left with the only option of transfering via usb stick. Camera, wifi, cloud servers...none were available in your video yet mention them as benefits.
I hope nobody buys one of these based on your review. I'm returning mine.
I also understand the firmware is closed even though its based on klipper. I didn't think they are allowed to do that?
Do not purchase this printer, it is literally the worst device I have ever purchased. Autolevelling doesn't work and causes the print head to crash into the print bed. The print quality is literally a joke. And first layer issues persistent - avoid like the plague
😂 its not for 1000k or 2000k $ so what do You expect 😅🙆
@@kbanach6494 if you advertise a feature I expect it to work