Automatic! 3D Printed Outer Mold for pouring Plaster for Slip Casting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ค. 2023
- In this video, I extend my software so that in addition to creating a mold form from a profile sketch, it also creates an outer mold for plaster that can be 3d printed. This creates a much slimmer, lighter plaster mold for slip casting. This is part of my deep dive on mold making for slip casting.
If you're interested in trying out the software, sign up here shapecastmolds.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
In the UK plumbers use a product called plumbers mait. It's a non drying putty which is intended to provide temporary waterproofing while repairs are carried out. This would seem to make it ideal for what you need. I don't know whether you have a similar product near you. Also you could try electricians insulation tape or some other waterproof tape. These methods should be quicker too.Good luck I like it.
Thanks. Doing a bit of digging - it would seem to be plumbers putty, which yes is also available here in the US. It had not occurred to me to use that, but it might be a good option!
I really love Seeing people mix traditional and modern mediums to streamline and push what's possible in these kinds of applications. I have a project I am currently trying to mixed 3D printing and slip casting as well. If you'd be willing, may I email you to pick your brain and get your opinion on a few things? Much appreciated, and keep the vids coming, these are so helpful!
Thanks! Sure thing - feel free to reach out.
@@PotterybyKent Sorry, I don't know where to find your email address 😅
I've been printing very hi res (0.07mm and 0.05mm) PLA, using liquid soap as a mold release (coat, let dry, repeat a couple of times), and the results have been very pleasing. At that resolution the PLA needs little to no post processing. Downside is very long print times (I've had prints take up to 8 DAYS). But if your setup is reliable and tuned, intermediate silicone castings can be bypassed. Mostly printing mugs, tumblers and vases for slip casting with B-Mix ^5-6 clays.
Really nice work, thought and experimentation ... just getting better and better. Maybe add a large central pull handle for the centre mold as well as some channels for the outer mold that are sealed with wax at the bottom to stop the plaster leaking up but that when you blow with compressed air it blows the wax out and you get an air all the way down to the bottom to build pressure for an easier release for the outer as well. You could also build the centre mold from 2 parts and join them with the wax so that they are also eaiser to remove. All some random ideas to try and play with.
Thanks for the ideas! The channel sealed with wax is a really interesting idea. I also wonder if that might work on the inner mold. Splitting the outer one is pretty straightforward (the seam there doesn't matter) but having a seam on the inner mold is a bit less than idea.
Great video! My "lazy" approach for such joints is blue painter's tape. It's worked well over the last couple of years.
The foil tape really works well. But it is also kind of annoying. I work that the tack on blue tape might not be strong enough to hold back the plaster especially if there is a small leak??
@@PotterybyKent I typically use some type of burnishing tool (thumb nail ) and the 2-inch wide tape. The adhesive seems to like PLA. So far no plaster disasters...
Good to know!
Awesome work. For the adhesive, I use a gorilla glue stick and glue gun which helps with speed and accuracy. Then using a pipette and squirting a little denatured alcohol onto the glue releases it easily. Not sure why that works, but it’s great for sealing and releasing molds (I usually work with silicone rubber so I look for an water proof seal). All available from hardware store too, which makes it convenient!
Thanks! I'll need to try the alcohol trick and see if that might work for me.
For demolding the center form, you could give the walls some inward protrusions with a ring on the end, so you can pull/peel the wall directly away from the mold, either enough to demold or enough to get some compressed air in the gap.
I've found that using an frozen water and alcohol mixture shrinks the PLA just a bit and it releases very easily that way.
@@PotterybyKent Yeah I saw that later. Glad you've got a process.
Really nice work, Kent!
Thanks a lot!
Very good progress 👏 👌
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks!
Seems like you could add threading to both forms to attach to the bottom ring. Just screw them in, though getting them off would be hard.
Thanks. I'd thought a bit about that, but it doesn't extend other kinds of geometries. And having the sides split open even for these is really nice!
Nice ideas about making the pattern and the mold container. I'm always trying to find the container for a mold and cottle boards are a pain.
Thanks! It is nice that the models are automatically created. And I'm with you - cottle boards are a pain!
Have you thought about printing TPU. It’s flexible so you may be able to demold more easily. You may have to play with thickness for strength.
My printer didn't do TPU so that was a non option. I did play with silicone, but at this point I'm happy with the process I've made using PLA.
Hi Kent, found your channel by chance, and been loving the videos, are there any plans to talk about creating master molds for 2 part molds? An automation for an Inverted of the 3D print would be super cool.
I have an example of using Shape Cast to create a 2 part mold - my sphere form. It currently isn't officially supported, but it is something I've been very slowly working on.
One use for TPU would be a 3D printed "knife" specifically shaped for trimming the "sprue" (I know it's not really a mold sprue...). Might be a bit less awkward. :)
I don't have direct drive, so no TPU for me right now. But I do like the idea of 3d printed custom tools!
@@PotterybyKent I have printed tools in PLA and then made hard rubber castings using OOMOO products. A bit pricey though.
I made a makers mark stamp in a similar way.
Thanks!
No problem! It's specially formulated for ceramics so the best option if you can get it
Have you tried combining the bottom circle and the inner mold into one piece? That way you would only need one seal on the outside.
That is a good thought. I haven't tried it yet. The trick is getting the inner mold out, which can be a bit tricky already. Making it larger might be even more so. If I can reliably get it out, then reducing the number of seams would be a good goal!
Keep me in mind for the software
Sure thing. If you haven't yet, sign up on the waitlist in the description and I'll send out emails there occasionally.
Excellent work Kent thanks. What 3d printer do you use
Thanks. I have an old Ender 3 that I'm using still.
Hi, thank you for your videos, that's a fascinating process. I am thinking to get a 3d printer for that purpose. I was just wondering about the horizontal lines that transfers to the final piece. Did you ever try to sand the 3d printed pieces to avoid those lines?
Yep! There's a video later in this playlist that shows just that using filler primer.
Hey Kent, instead of doing a relief cut on your outer mold, you might want to try murphy's oil soap as a mold release. I think it would work well and you wouldn't have to do a cut. Also, maybe there's a way to seal the bottom ring? Before I saw the ring I was thinking the 2 pieces could be pushed down into a clay slab. I've done that before with casting and it works well, but it's a bit messy getting wet plaster on the slab if you want to salvage all of the slab later. Just my thoughts. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks. As I said in the video, I did put Murphy's oil on the outer molds as well as the inner. It didn't work unfortunately.
I am actively looking for other ways to seal the 3d prints together. Clay is one method, but as you mention, it does have drawbacks as well. I think there will be a good solution though!
Fabulous thinking “outside the box”! Is the 3d printed plastic model friendly to sanding to remove the artifacts before casting? Thinking out loud, it would save time cleaning each cast.
I know very little about 3d printing… perfect reason to enroll in a continuing ed class at the local college ❤ you’ve inspired me to think about my pottery studio in a completely different way.
Indeed you can! In particular you can use filler primer and sanding and get the surface as smooth as you like. I have a video later in the playlist showing the idea.
Hi ! Nice work ! I tried to suscribe at your waiting list but I dont think it worked. Thank you !
Then send me an email - contact info is here on my channel.
How many hours of printing is it to create the cottle in 3d print? I think it might be simpler to press your form into clay at the base and then wrap it with a sheet of metal ( got mine in the hardware store roofing section) I sealed the overlap with duct tape. I have also seen people do the same but use stiff plastic sheet also and seal the overlap with dog clips.
I think that one was about 6 hours I think. So it's hard to get simpler than push the start button, go to sleep and wake up with it done!
Great job Kent. I’ve been working on a similar solution but not for slip casting but to make a jigger mold. It’s all one piece. message me if you want the stl
Very nice! Jiggering and jollying is something I might try one day. The plaster mold making part seems to have a lot of similarities.
Would you ever just leave the outer mold on for bump protection around the workshop? Or would it impact the plaster's moisture wicking?
Maybe if it were fully dry you could put it back in. However properly mixed plaster is pretty strong. And yes, from what I understand about the process, if it was wet, it would likely mess with the water transport from inside to outside. Also, the molds need to dry (some) between uses and I think preventing the outside from releasing water would be problematic. It both provides more surface area for evaporation, but also lets the water content equalize within the plaster (as opposed to just stay on the mold side).
@@PotterybyKent Ahh yes, I didn't consider the letting the plaster cure properly thing either. I've gotta say, your vids have got me mad keen on doing some casting. I've been harvesting wild clay from my property in the Aussie bush, and prepping it for hand working. So I have many buckets of liquid clay on hand at any time. Now I'm off down the de-flocking and specific gravity rabbit hole. lol
The pot forms you are making look like tradition wheel thrown pots. One of the advantages of cad design and slip forming is that you can create non traditional shapes.
For sure - take a closer look at my channel (before I started this deep dive) and you will see some of them. The problem is the CAD work needed to do so. Over time I will get there with shape cast.
Also, there are several advantages to slip casting revolved forms even if they could be done on a wheel
whats that foil you put underneath?
It is not foil, but instead a large baking sheet. I use it from time to time if I think there might be a plaster leak.
What type of plaster are you using? “Hardware store” $, or “Potter’s” $$ plaster?
usg number 1 pottery plaster
Lovely work. A little over complicated with the sealing though. Why not just use a traditional bead of clay. It will take seconds to apply.
Because this is just the first stages of the mold system. I've continued to develop it and these were critical features (lots more videos in the playlist if you're curious).