This is a great idea! Although I wasn't thinking about salvaging, I was thinking while watching, "why doesn't he just socket the main power connector and output power connector?" I don't like to hardwire power supplies if you don't have to (though I've long questioned the merits of modular PSUs in PCs as you do introduce additional loss and resistance, but there are advantages too).
I second this! I still have my original C64 power supply and it's within spec, but I check it with my multi-meter before using it if a few weeks have passed since I last checked. So far, I've just been very careful to not short the pins, but it's tricky. So this tip will really help me. (I should probably just make a new PSU or buy one to be safe, but I also feel like I should keep using the original equipment if it still works.)
Nice Video, The only thing I would have done is before mounting the transformer would have put a sheet of plastic under it like they do in ATX power supply, because of the 230 volt main so closes to the bottom of the case.
yes, just thin plastic sheet will do , cause i didn't look closely but i don't think there is much clearance between them , just in case perforated board sags over time towards the case, or in unfortunate case of dropping PSU , it can make contact with the case.
I figured someone else would have mentioned that by now, and I'm really glad someone did. Yeah, if it wasn't a metal case, it wouldn't have concerned me.
FWIW in Australia under AS3000 you can use the PE conductor for whatever you want so long as you sheath the visible parts so it doesn't LOOK like PE ;)
You should put a star washer between the grounding wire and the case. The washer will break the paint to make a better contact. You may reuse the yellow-green wire for a ground on the low voltage side. Just put a piece of blue heat shrink tubing over it.
The two resistors that set the main voltage and overprotection voltage should have been potentiometers. This way you could have easily dialed in the correct settings.
41:48 this is why when doing this sort of thing I tend to use a Variable resistor to tune the voltage, it could potentially drop even more when under load, so you carefully tweak it as close to 5V as you can get for your circuits. Also don't forget that resistors tend to have a 2% to 5% margin of error, so if your tuning is done only with a static resistor, you could be as low as 4.8v and as high as 5.2v just from the resistor tolerance.
24:18 oh, that's so... ouch. I actually bought a bunch of IEC sockets to put on my own gadgets. I also have a bundle of black mains cable, and some plugs, so I can make my own fixed power cables without having to cut one down.
The number LM2576T-ADJ seems familier. I THINK I've used one of those before, along with a specific version for 5 volts. If it is the one I'm thinking of, it's a 5 pin device, and it needs a diode and inductor on it, along with a big fat capacitor.
Firstly, I'm not that enamored by the PCB rectifier board. Really that circuit should have multi-turn potentiometers to set both the main voltage and overprotection voltage. I know that a lot of us here in the UK will stick a ring (say, 5mm) of red, black, or blue piece of heat-shrink on a misused Earth (PE) wire just as an indicator. Speaking of Earth wires, they really should be the longest of the three live inputs and secured with a star washer. Also, I'd personally like to have more clearance between the bottom of the boards and the metal case and/or some insulator. The heat-shrink around the DIN plug pins is bloody genius! Thanks for that idea! Your videos are great, Jan. Please keep 'em coming!
When I solder a DIN plug I always dremel at bit off the shafts of the plug so that you can insert the wires more easily. They become more cup shaped like with serial ports. Works like a charm! I made a video about it a while back.
Nice one Jan I like the project with the following observations. Technically you should not use a glass fuse on mains side as they have limited rupture capacity. The if the transformer pins are closer than 3.2mm to the case you should really fit an insulating sheet. You said the voltage was low @41.55 due to cable losses, you have no cable losses as you have no load. The heat sink you put on the bridge reciifier was wasting your money and a waste of time. The problem using those crimp pins on the DIN connector is they will break easily if the cable is bent over as the thin cable clamp will not stop the movement. The C64 saver, you need to find a better compensated voltage reference.
if your heat shrink shrinks down when soldering, you can stretch it back out with a pick or small screwdriver (be careful not to tear it). It will re-shrink again when you heat it.
Great video, as usual. Keep them coming. Not quite to code though and potentially dangerous. The Earth wire yellow/green must be the longest wire! You made it very short. The reason for this code is in case the mains cable is pulled out by force, the ground remains connected until the end. Right now, because its so short it would be ripped out first and you lose all grounding while the mains might touch the case. But you built it like a tank, no need to worry.
Makes sense, clearly this is not a model for mass production or for sale but leaving the ground wire longer definitely would improve it. Thanks for pointing that out!
@@andreasu.3546 Yes I have also seen them do it,. They do it to stop them being repaired or in case it is dropped and the case breaks so protecting the end user. But if it's your own build and you are not selling them it is much better left without potting.
@@FireballXL55 Just a joke, the old commodore PSUs were filled with resin and couldn't be repaired. A real PITA really, and it makes no sense to make a new one like that. Just pulling Jan's leg a bit:)
When using single transformer where secondaries are used for both 5V DC rail and 9V AC rail there is no galavanic isolation between the rails like there is in original C= power supply. Though this doesn't really matter as the 9V rail inside the C64 after it's rectified uses 5V DC rail's ground. According to measurements in the PDF this has 40-50mV ripple noise that is fairly high for a linear power supply. Certainly C64 will work with that but the filtering isn't very effective. Adding some RC-filtering between rectifier and the regulator will get the ripple to 10mV range. I would probably add 1-5 ohm resistors parallel to C1, C2 and C3 and bump the values of C2 and C3 to 2200uF because why not.
When making power supplies like this, rather than matrix board I tend to use the perforated board that has no copper on it, and use ~26 swg tinned copper wire to wire up things, it means that you have no worries about tracking or having to remove lots of pads. It is getting harder to find these days but large stockists still carry it. If you wish to secure components temporarily until you have soldered them in you can always use hot glue or superglue.
Good point! The first board you see the transformer connected to in the video is the kind without copper. I was considering using that for a while but ended up with the plated variant to keep it modular with the screw terminals.
@@JanBeta Ah I didn't notice that. Nice project by the way, its nice to see the various different ways you've made power supplies for the C64 and other computers. Perhaps you could do one using a PCB (with PCBway?!) in future.
Very nice video. I've often wondered why you couldn't place a very small fan to assist in moving air and decreasing the amount of heat inside the cases. I wouldn't think there would be that much of a noise issue with a very small fan, moving at a relatively slow speed, just to help move the air instead of dealing with passive cooling only.
I came here too say exactly the same thing, I was watching the video thinking "holy cr@p the 230v is going to arc to the case" !! Also you can buy a vero cutter for the holes quite cheap, It is just a drill bit on a plastic handle, And i use my hot air blower for shrink wrap, Just saying.
This was a little bit better than the TRS80 PSU but still not good. There is no isolation between the transformer board and the case except a small air gap. The two PE connection screws must have a star washer and the paint around must be scraped off. As you mentioned it is not allowed to use green-yellow cable for other purposes then PE (not even ground). You put a huge effort to save the life of a C64 board, replacable for around 30 €. The original epoxy power brick may kill a C64 but its not killing you.
I recommend using one of the cheap buck converter modules or SMPS from Ebay for the 5V line they are usually able to supply 3-5A with minimal ripple and if the module fails it will not over volt the output.
An awesome project! I am not sure where I've been but I haven't seen (or remember) this PSU design -- very cool. And that red enclosure is fantastic! Coincidentally, I purchased the same model, but in black, from Banggood sometime last year. Great work, again -- really enjoyed, as usual.
Nice Video and interesting PSU. Have to say though, that overall I still prefer the "Greisis Workbench" ones. They feel the least "tinkered together", fit perfectly in the bopla cases and still are quite small.
Greisi's power supply is the best you can build for C64 ! There is no better one out there. I don't know why Jan beta doesn't know that and haven't built it. But, i have to look the video, maybe this one is ok.
Nice build. I would proberly have put a plug in the case, so i could make cables to use the same power supply for different computers, that uses 9v ac and/or 5v dc.
With the red casing this seems like a nice high quality C64 PSU. One thing I would want to do to it is to just put some kind of transfer or sticker onto the top of the PSU to make it obvious which machine this unit is for. One idea for a video that would fit well on this channel would be how to go about building your own joystick or joypads for the C64. This would be good since most of them are showing their age and you can't really order new ones. Even if you did get new ones from some of the Chinese console copies, they tend to be very low quality so it strikes me that building your own where you can dictate how good it is would be worthwhile.
I got my PSU from c64psu a year or so ago, it's been great and it's only 30€, I think it was a bit more back then. There's also a version that you can use to power the 1541-2 at the same time without using it's power brick, wish I got that instead as I recently got a 1541-2
Some experiences over the years with DIY power supplies ... Building a strain relief (Zugentlastung) that lasts isn't an easy thing. Turning the cable, throwing the device from the table and so on. Easiest way is to use an IEC connector (Kaltgerätestecker), but it's a bit more work to get a rectangle hole for it. If you go the route of a fixed cable, make sure that the PE is longer than the other two and therefore is the last one to be ripped off when the strain relief fails. The "Klebepads" don't last on devices that get's warm (at least good quality ones 25+ years ago didn't), I'm using screws. Putting cables directly into the screw terminals will not last if you need to disassemble the power supply a few times. Soldering is a bit better but won't work good as well. I'm using wire end ferrules (Aderendhülsen) with a plastic collar, that's even good for "flying prototyping". Using labels from a label printer will remember yourself after a few years what this thing is for, "C64 Power Supply", "200mA T", "green=ok", ... Don't ask me how I learned all of the above ...
Thanks for the valuable tips! I’m going to try to incorporate them in the next build. Was also thinking of using proper Molex connectors next time, just need to get a suitable crimping tool for that first.
Aaah! That board - it's not through-hole-plated prototyping board like the kind I accidentally ordered and wondered why it was expensive. You can remove the pads from your board just by scorching them with the soldering iron!
I’d try a 430 ohm resistor for R2 - that should give a cutout voltage closer to 5.2, which may still be a bit high for standard TTL. Either that, or a 500 ohm trimpot, or - probably a 1k would be easier to find. Set it to max and solder in. Adjust the power supply to the cutout voltage you want, and turn on. You can now adjust the cutout trimpot down until the relay kicks out. Happy face. 🙂
Great video, Jan. I like the comment about not using those stand offs in a shaking environment. Good advice, but I'm not sure where that would be. Maybe where there are many earthquakes? Hahaha! Happy Thanksgiving from your friends in America.
Nice Job, Jan, If anything is true, this is an over-engineered project. I am curious if you insulated the Transformer perf board from the metal case, the paint could be breached and short your fuse. keep up the great vids!
I don’t remember which one I used in the video. Probably the TAC-2 or a Competition Pro. Both available only used as they are old models from the 80s and 90s. There are new versions of the Competition Pro but they are a bit different.
Hi Jan. Can you point me to the gerber files for 9VAC to 5VDC board (with over volt protection) with no on-board transfomer featured in the first part of this video? I've looked through the links in the video description and can't see it.
Go to janbeta.net/c64-power-supply/ and download the gerbers.zip, then unzip. The file "Original C64 PSU Replacement-adjustable version.zip" contains the gerbers for the version I used in the video. There's similarly named preview pictures for the PCBs, too, in case you are uncertain.
@@JanBeta Thank you so much... it was right in front of my nose! I've got an dual secondary 9V + 9V 50VA toroidal transformer in my junk box that is waiting for a project like this! :-)
Excellent video Jan! Could you or anyone else in the comments sum up what would be needed to make this a multi-output PS for maybe a disk drive or two? Thanks!
Something looked strange about the fuse wiring, and when I looked it up I could find people saying that the fuse should be wired after the switch. My worry would be that if you had the box plugged in and put your hand on the chassis while grabbing the fuse then you could get a shock right across your body. I can't confirm this as I'm not an electrical engineer, but maybe someone else knows.
As far as my research goes, both are legitimate approaches. I have wired fuses up both ways in my videos and usually get at least one comment suggesting the other way is the proper way. ;) I see the arguments for both, as you say you could get shocked if you wire it before the switch or if you wire it the other way the fuse could stay intact when the switch shorts out for some reason.
Very nice but there is a couple of issues on the Wiring I just can't ignore. Wires carrying AC should be twisted together and should use toothed lock washers on the Earth Ground Lugs so it can bite into the Metal chassis. A polyimide film sheet or fish paper under the Transformer as well because grounded or not it could turn into a Spark Gap hazard. Also in good Practice to use Safety Caps across the AC Line. Keep in mind the Transformer you selected is 18VA and when converted to Amps it will only handle 2Amps. A 30VA Transformer would compliment that Power Supply better since it can handle 3Amps, don't want to overwork that Transformer. I(A) = S(VA) / V(V)
Great video, Jan👍🏻! I stumbled over it while doing a power cable for my C64 and saw your „trick“ with the pinheaders. Nice one, think I‘m gonna use this method too. Where are they from respectively what is their parts number?
I got a set of cheapo crimp connectors from Amazon (if I remember correctly). Search terms are pin header crimp connectors or DuPont crimp connectors. There’s sets available that are rather inexpensive and include a crimping tool, too. Definitely good enough for occasional use. :)
No. They were killing C-64's within just a few years, they got two of mine in junior high. Aftermarket Power supplies were a big thing in the 1980's. Just check out any PC magazine of the time.
Good call! I actually taped a sheet of plastic underneath after finishing the video. I think there is enough clearance without it though, plus the fuse should instantly blow if anything is shorting to the case.
Oh Jan, awesome video, now I can follow along and do this during my year-end break in December. I've been so worried using my old black Australian market power brick. It still seems okay, but you never know. I already bricked one of my C64s with a beige power brick ;-(
What is the diode there that is used for protection threshold? Maybe switching that with a different, "better suited for the job" one can make this work more reliably without messing with the protection trigger point very much?
@Mr Guru Maybe you'd like to do some research of the thermal characteristics of diodes (zeners included). Not all diodes are the same, there are many 5.xV zener diodes, with different part numbers, even from the same manufacturer. Why do you think this is? They have different chemistry, different manufacturing tolerances, some drift more, some drift less with ambient heat. That's why I am asking for the part number of the said diode so that I can look up its datasheet to see its thermal characteristics and maybe recommend a better (less drifting) diode to replace it. And yes, that is called research...
I was taught in school P=IV, from reading various forums and such (I believe the most recent that I read touching on this was on Quora), using E is outdated and V is the current convention. I learned Ohm's Law 19 years ago and had never seen the use of E for voltage until a few months ago to be honest. Perhaps this varies depending on country? I'm in Canada.
Good video, though I was a little disappointed. I was hoping you would go into more details about why the original power bricks fail, and what that does to that machine, including opening up both to point to the relevant components. I guess the history of power brick failures would be for another video.
Oh my, those pins would have been handy when I built my ZX Spectrum power supply. The DIN plug has 6 pins there!😐 Do those pins have a special designation?
@@JanBeta The postage is more expensive on Amazon than the case, and Aliexpress don't sell it anymore unfortunately. No red ones on Amazon either. Looks like a nice case.
@@stephenvalente3296 Go to the Vange Mould store on AliExpress, they are the manufacturers. Various sizesand colours are available in the 'Iron Metal Box' category.
Did you know that Donald Duck's Playground was one of the first major projects from Al Lowe (who went on to become the creator of Leisure Suit Larry and other games)?
Why does no one have both power leads only coming out of the back so it will be neater and more conveient on your desk it;s the biggist grip all retro computer owners have.
When I made my PSU I used a MIDI cable so I didn't have to mess with a DIN. Sadly the cables were THIN really thin. I only got 4.5V. It works though.......until I add in the U2+. Then it drops further to 3.5V. The system sort of works, but the colors are glitchy. You can play games, but they look like crap. I didn't know because I only checked voltages without the U2+ and one day I checked with it. I'm like OMG no wonder why it doesn't work. I had already replaced the PLA and the color ram but no change. So those are probably fine. Now I power the U2+ with an external USB cable and everything works great now. I may just get a black brick of death and salvage the cord off that. I know that can handle the current.
Nope, the Amiga range uses +12 and -12 volts along with 5 volts, while the C64 uses 9 volts and 5 volts to operate. Also the Amiga uses a square power input (like on the C128) instead of the round DIN style power input. The power draw on an Amiga will be considerably higher due to the internal floppy drive, internal trap door expansions, etc.
Eine Sicherung reicht leider nicht, die würde zwar bei zu viel Strom (z.B., wenn eine Komponente im C64 einen Kurzschluss verursacht) schützen - und das auch eher ungenau und langsam, das Problem ist eine zu hohe Spannung vom Netzteil, die sehr schnell die versorgten Chips killt.
Here's another power supply to add to your list: Keelog's OLED equipped switchmode power supply. www.keelog.com/c64-psu-oled-digital-gray-us-replacement-commodore-64-power-supply-us-plug/ (They also sell similar OLED switchmode supply for other computers from the same era.) Also, Protip: for that mains cable, you stripped a long section of the outer insulation off. Next time leave a little bit, make a short slit, and fold it back over itself, *THEN* ziptie it in place. The folded over section is generally too wide to escape the cable gland, that way. Cheers!
I like to salvage IEC power connectors from ATX PSUs just for projects like this one.
This is a great idea! Although I wasn't thinking about salvaging, I was thinking while watching, "why doesn't he just socket the main power connector and output power connector?" I don't like to hardwire power supplies if you don't have to (though I've long questioned the merits of modular PSUs in PCs as you do introduce additional loss and resistance, but there are advantages too).
A big plus of a DIY PSU is that you can throw in a fan inside the case for extra cooling; thumbs up!
Gotta consider air flow though, don't want to have heat trapped on components ❤
Great tip about using heatshrink tubing to measure voltages on the DIN connector pins!
I second this! I still have my original C64 power supply and it's within spec, but I check it with my multi-meter before using it if a few weeks have passed since I last checked. So far, I've just been very careful to not short the pins, but it's tricky. So this tip will really help me. (I should probably just make a new PSU or buy one to be safe, but I also feel like I should keep using the original equipment if it still works.)
You may use a drill bit to remove the unused pads cleanly.
Nice Video, The only thing I would have done is before mounting the transformer would have put a sheet of plastic under it like they do in ATX power supply, because of the 230 volt main so closes to the bottom of the case.
yes, just thin plastic sheet will do , cause i didn't look closely but i don't think there is much clearance between them , just in case perforated board sags over time towards the case, or in unfortunate case of dropping PSU , it can make contact with the case.
I figured someone else would have mentioned that by now, and I'm really glad someone did. Yeah, if it wasn't a metal case, it wouldn't have concerned me.
FWIW in Australia under AS3000 you can use the PE conductor for whatever you want so long as you sheath the visible parts so it doesn't LOOK like PE ;)
You should put a star washer between the grounding wire and the case. The washer will break the paint to make a better contact.
You may reuse the yellow-green wire for a ground on the low voltage side. Just put a piece of blue heat shrink tubing over it.
Yes, I definitely have to retrofit some proper star washers, didn't have any at the time unfortunately.
@@JanBeta sanding the paint off of where the ring terminal contacts the case would have been a good option too. I use emery cloth professionally.
The two resistors that set the main voltage and overprotection voltage should have been potentiometers. This way you could have easily dialed in the correct settings.
41:48 this is why when doing this sort of thing I tend to use a Variable resistor to tune the voltage, it could potentially drop even more when under load, so you carefully tweak it as close to 5V as you can get for your circuits. Also don't forget that resistors tend to have a 2% to 5% margin of error, so if your tuning is done only with a static resistor, you could be as low as 4.8v and as high as 5.2v just from the resistor tolerance.
Exactly my first thought too 🙂
24:18 oh, that's so... ouch.
I actually bought a bunch of IEC sockets to put on my own gadgets.
I also have a bundle of black mains cable, and some plugs, so I can make my own fixed power cables without having to cut one down.
PERFECT TIMING!! i watch your whole collection of videos currently. So good.. I learn a lot from you
The number LM2576T-ADJ seems familier. I THINK I've used one of those before, along with a specific version for 5 volts.
If it is the one I'm thinking of, it's a 5 pin device, and it needs a diode and inductor on it, along with a big fat capacitor.
Great build. One upgrade I might do is to put a voltage monitor on the front of the case. The case you used would be perfect for it.
Firstly, I'm not that enamored by the PCB rectifier board. Really that circuit should have multi-turn potentiometers to set both the main voltage and overprotection voltage. I know that a lot of us here in the UK will stick a ring (say, 5mm) of red, black, or blue piece of heat-shrink on a misused Earth (PE) wire just as an indicator. Speaking of Earth wires, they really should be the longest of the three live inputs and secured with a star washer. Also, I'd personally like to have more clearance between the bottom of the boards and the metal case and/or some insulator.
The heat-shrink around the DIN plug pins is bloody genius! Thanks for that idea!
Your videos are great, Jan. Please keep 'em coming!
Try the Neutrik din plugs, nice big solder buckets and very nicely made.
When I solder a DIN plug I always dremel at bit off the shafts of the plug so that you can insert the wires more easily. They become more cup shaped like with serial ports. Works like a charm! I made a video about it a while back.
Nice one Jan I like the project with the following observations.
Technically you should not use a glass fuse on mains side as they have limited rupture capacity.
The if the transformer pins are closer than 3.2mm to the case you should really fit an insulating sheet.
You said the voltage was low @41.55 due to cable losses, you have no cable losses as you have no load.
The heat sink you put on the bridge reciifier was wasting your money and a waste of time.
The problem using those crimp pins on the DIN connector is they will break easily if the cable is bent over as the thin cable clamp will not stop the movement.
The C64 saver, you need to find a better compensated voltage reference.
*facepalm* that heat shrink tubing trick is ofc so obvious that I have never thought of it. Thanks for changing my life ;)
if your heat shrink shrinks down when soldering, you can stretch it back out with a pick or small screwdriver (be careful not to tear it). It will re-shrink again when you heat it.
Very nice job!
I would recommend sandwiching those earthing ring crimps between 2 external shake proof washers for better earth bonding.
Great video, as usual. Keep them coming.
Not quite to code though and potentially dangerous. The Earth wire yellow/green must be the longest wire! You made it very short. The reason for this code is in case the mains cable is pulled out by force, the ground remains connected until the end. Right now, because its so short it would be ripped out first and you lose all grounding while the mains might touch the case.
But you built it like a tank, no need to worry.
Makes sense, clearly this is not a model for mass production or for sale but leaving the ground wire longer definitely would improve it. Thanks for pointing that out!
The Kid had Perfect acting skills! She will be a star in the future. Nice power supply! Love how you construct your cases.
Colour always matters! And red goes faster...
Nice build, Jan! But isn't it supposed to be totally potted in resin? Next episode, maybe:D
I can still do that! :D
Why ?
I seen 'em do it man, they f****n' drown 'em in it.
@@andreasu.3546 Yes I have also seen them do it,. They do it to stop them being repaired or in case it is dropped and the case breaks so protecting the end user.
But if it's your own build and you are not selling them it is much better left without potting.
@@FireballXL55 Just a joke, the old commodore PSUs were filled with resin and couldn't be repaired. A real PITA really, and it makes no sense to make a new one like that. Just pulling Jan's leg a bit:)
When using single transformer where secondaries are used for both 5V DC rail and 9V AC rail there is no galavanic isolation between the rails like there is in original C= power supply. Though this doesn't really matter as the 9V rail inside the C64 after it's rectified uses 5V DC rail's ground.
According to measurements in the PDF this has 40-50mV ripple noise that is fairly high for a linear power supply. Certainly C64 will work with that but the filtering isn't very effective. Adding some RC-filtering between rectifier and the regulator will get the ripple to 10mV range.
I would probably add 1-5 ohm resistors parallel to C1, C2 and C3 and bump the values of C2 and C3 to 2200uF because why not.
Just put a shrink tube over the yellow/green wire so it doesn't suggest it's PE anymore.
When making power supplies like this, rather than matrix board I tend to use the perforated board that has no copper on it, and use ~26 swg tinned copper wire to wire up things, it means that you have no worries about tracking or having to remove lots of pads. It is getting harder to find these days but large stockists still carry it. If you wish to secure components temporarily until you have soldered them in you can always use hot glue or superglue.
Good point! The first board you see the transformer connected to in the video is the kind without copper. I was considering using that for a while but ended up with the plated variant to keep it modular with the screw terminals.
@@JanBeta Ah I didn't notice that. Nice project by the way, its nice to see the various different ways you've made power supplies for the C64 and other computers. Perhaps you could do one using a PCB (with PCBway?!) in future.
Very nice video. I've often wondered why you couldn't place a very small fan to assist in moving air and decreasing the amount of heat inside the cases. I wouldn't think there would be that much of a noise issue with a very small fan, moving at a relatively slow speed, just to help move the air instead of dealing with passive cooling only.
Gran video Jan,alimentatore stupendo,sei il numero uno.ciao.
INSULATING SHEET UNDER THE MAINS TRANSFORMER!
Yeah, good point. I actually thought about that too late, put a piece of plastic in shortly after finishing the video.
I came here too say exactly the same thing, I was watching the video thinking "holy cr@p the 230v is going to arc to the case" !! Also you can buy a vero cutter for the holes quite cheap, It is just a drill bit on a plastic handle, And i use my hot air blower for shrink wrap, Just saying.
This was a little bit better than the TRS80 PSU but still not good. There is no isolation between the transformer board and the case except a small air gap. The two PE connection screws must have a star washer and the paint around must be scraped off. As you mentioned it is not allowed to use green-yellow cable for other purposes then PE (not even ground).
You put a huge effort to save the life of a C64 board, replacable for around 30 €. The original epoxy power brick may kill a C64 but its not killing you.
Very nice power supply. Great video as well.
Thank you! :)
Nice video as usual: there're always lots of things'n'tricks to learn! Thanks Jan! ❤👍
I recommend using one of the cheap buck converter modules or SMPS from Ebay for the 5V line they are usually able to supply 3-5A with minimal ripple and if the module fails it will not over volt the output.
Thanks Jan !
An awesome project! I am not sure where I've been but I haven't seen (or remember) this PSU design -- very cool. And that red enclosure is fantastic! Coincidentally, I purchased the same model, but in black, from Banggood sometime last year. Great work, again -- really enjoyed, as usual.
Jan,
Why don't you add a digital volt meter to the case to monitor the power supply volts in real time?
Nice Video!!
My Question: Is the PSU strong enouth for the C128 too?
Nice Video and interesting PSU. Have to say though, that overall I still prefer the "Greisis Workbench" ones. They feel the least "tinkered together", fit perfectly in the bopla cases and still are quite small.
Greisi's power supply is the best you can build for C64 ! There is no better one out there. I don't know why Jan beta doesn't know that and haven't built it. But, i have to look the video, maybe this one is ok.
Nice build. I would proberly have put a plug in the case, so i could make cables to use the same power supply for different computers, that uses 9v ac and/or 5v dc.
Just in time for breakfast, nice one Jan!
Jan, you are the master of tinkering!
With the red casing this seems like a nice high quality C64 PSU. One thing I would want to do to it is to just put some kind of transfer or sticker onto the top of the PSU to make it obvious which machine this unit is for.
One idea for a video that would fit well on this channel would be how to go about building your own joystick or joypads for the C64. This would be good since most of them are showing their age and you can't really order new ones. Even if you did get new ones from some of the Chinese console copies, they tend to be very low quality so it strikes me that building your own where you can dictate how good it is would be worthwhile.
I got my PSU from c64psu a year or so ago, it's been great and it's only 30€, I think it was a bit more back then. There's also a version that you can use to power the 1541-2 at the same time without using it's power brick, wish I got that instead as I recently got a 1541-2
Some experiences over the years with DIY power supplies ...
Building a strain relief (Zugentlastung) that lasts isn't an easy thing. Turning the cable, throwing the device from the table and so on. Easiest way is to use an IEC connector (Kaltgerätestecker), but it's a bit more work to get a rectangle hole for it. If you go the route of a fixed cable, make sure that the PE is longer than the other two and therefore is the last one to be ripped off when the strain relief fails.
The "Klebepads" don't last on devices that get's warm (at least good quality ones 25+ years ago didn't), I'm using screws.
Putting cables directly into the screw terminals will not last if you need to disassemble the power supply a few times. Soldering is a bit better but won't work good as well. I'm using wire end ferrules (Aderendhülsen) with a plastic collar, that's even good for "flying prototyping".
Using labels from a label printer will remember yourself after a few years what this thing is for, "C64 Power Supply", "200mA T", "green=ok", ...
Don't ask me how I learned all of the above ...
Thanks for the valuable tips! I’m going to try to incorporate them in the next build. Was also thinking of using proper Molex connectors next time, just need to get a suitable crimping tool for that first.
Aaah! That board - it's not through-hole-plated prototyping board like the kind I accidentally ordered and wondered why it was expensive. You can remove the pads from your board just by scorching them with the soldering iron!
I’d try a 430 ohm resistor for R2 - that should give a cutout voltage closer to 5.2, which may still be a bit high for standard TTL. Either that, or a 500 ohm trimpot, or - probably a 1k would be easier to find. Set it to max and solder in. Adjust the power supply to the cutout voltage you want, and turn on. You can now adjust the cutout trimpot down until the relay kicks out. Happy face. 🙂
There are no losses in the cable when there is no load connected (Ohm's law - U = I * R. No current - I = 0 - no voltage drop).
You’re absolutely right, I didn’t think of that.
Can I use a small pot instead of the resistor (390) for adjusting the overvoltage cutout?
Yes, that’s no problem. S.M.D. details why he chose fixed resistors in the pdf. Good variable resistors are going to work fine, of course.
Reading the notes in the design file, is voltage drop over the cable that important?
It's actually a lot more obvious if you re-use the original cable which is way smaller diameter and a lot longer.
Great video, Jan. I like the comment about not using those stand offs in a shaking environment. Good advice, but I'm not sure where that would be. Maybe where there are many earthquakes? Hahaha! Happy Thanksgiving from your friends in America.
Does it have enough power fora C64 using a 1750 Memory Expansion Unit?
I think I would have preferred pots than fixed resistors in that design. But it looks nice.
It looks great. Nice work. 👍😊
Nice power supply
Nice Job, Jan, If anything is true, this is an over-engineered project. I am curious if you insulated the Transformer perf board from the metal case, the paint could be breached and short your fuse.
keep up the great vids!
How will you know if it's a C64 PSU or a Focusrite soundcard for your PC?
Hi Jan, can You tell me where can i buy a joystick like the one you have? Thanks. Hi Antonio
I don’t remember which one I used in the video. Probably the TAC-2 or a Competition Pro. Both available only used as they are old models from the 80s and 90s. There are new versions of the Competition Pro but they are a bit different.
I was just looking at the schematic you supplied and noticed that the L1 is basically bypassed with a solid connection, it’s shorted out?
Hi Jan. Can you point me to the gerber files for 9VAC to 5VDC board (with over volt protection) with no on-board transfomer featured in the first part of this video? I've looked through the links in the video description and can't see it.
Go to janbeta.net/c64-power-supply/ and download the gerbers.zip, then unzip. The file "Original C64 PSU Replacement-adjustable version.zip" contains the gerbers for the version I used in the video. There's similarly named preview pictures for the PCBs, too, in case you are uncertain.
@@JanBeta Thank you so much... it was right in front of my nose! I've got an dual secondary 9V + 9V 50VA toroidal transformer in my junk box that is waiting for a project like this! :-)
Nice video Jan. Thanks :)
Excellent video Jan! Could you or anyone else in the comments sum up what would be needed to make this a multi-output PS for maybe a disk drive or two? Thanks!
Something looked strange about the fuse wiring, and when I looked it up I could find people saying that the fuse should be wired after the switch. My worry would be that if you had the box plugged in and put your hand on the chassis while grabbing the fuse then you could get a shock right across your body. I can't confirm this as I'm not an electrical engineer, but maybe someone else knows.
As far as my research goes, both are legitimate approaches. I have wired fuses up both ways in my videos and usually get at least one comment suggesting the other way is the proper way. ;) I see the arguments for both, as you say you could get shocked if you wire it before the switch or if you wire it the other way the fuse could stay intact when the switch shorts out for some reason.
Very nice but there is a couple of issues on the Wiring I just can't ignore.
Wires carrying AC should be twisted together and should use toothed lock washers on the Earth Ground Lugs so it can bite into the Metal chassis. A polyimide film sheet or fish paper under the Transformer as well because grounded or not it could turn into a Spark Gap hazard. Also in good Practice to use Safety Caps across the AC Line.
Keep in mind the Transformer you selected is 18VA and when converted to Amps it will only handle 2Amps. A 30VA Transformer would compliment that Power Supply better since it can handle 3Amps, don't want to overwork that Transformer. I(A) = S(VA) / V(V)
Great video, Jan👍🏻! I stumbled over it while doing a power cable for my C64 and saw your „trick“ with the pinheaders. Nice one, think I‘m gonna use this method too. Where are they from respectively what is their parts number?
I got a set of cheapo crimp connectors from Amazon (if I remember correctly). Search terms are pin header crimp connectors or DuPont crimp connectors. There’s sets available that are rather inexpensive and include a crimping tool, too. Definitely good enough for occasional use. :)
These PSU's 'Quickly' turn is to a silent killer of C64's ☺️☺️ only takes 35 years !!!
No. They were killing C-64's within just a few years, they got two of mine in junior high. Aftermarket Power supplies were a big thing in the 1980's. Just check out any PC magazine of the time.
Double protection in the DC supply, but no protection in the AC part at all? What if there's a surge?
Are the conductors at the bottom of the transformer insulated at all?
Makes me nervous as hell
Good call! I actually taped a sheet of plastic underneath after finishing the video. I think there is enough clearance without it though, plus the fuse should instantly blow if anything is shorting to the case.
@@JanBeta Did you scrape away the paint where you connected the earth to the case? Sorry if I missed it
I can't find the exact transformer you using. Can you please provide me a link? :)
have u seen a BBC micro emulator for the Atari st? thanks....
Oh Jan, awesome video, now I can follow along and do this during my year-end break in December. I've been so worried using my old black Australian market power brick. It still seems okay, but you never know. I already bricked one of my C64s with a beige power brick ;-(
nice project!!
What is the diode there that is used for protection threshold? Maybe switching that with a different, "better suited for the job" one can make this work more reliably without messing with the protection trigger point very much?
@Mr Guru Maybe you'd like to do some research of the thermal characteristics of diodes (zeners included). Not all diodes are the same, there are many 5.xV zener diodes, with different part numbers, even from the same manufacturer. Why do you think this is? They have different chemistry, different manufacturing tolerances, some drift more, some drift less with ambient heat. That's why I am asking for the part number of the said diode so that I can look up its datasheet to see its thermal characteristics and maybe recommend a better (less drifting) diode to replace it. And yes, that is called research...
@Mr Guru Your new friendlier tone is much appreciated. Yes, I believe I missed the part about the BOM link.
Jan, Nice project.
how do you go from the c64 video output to a new display ?
E is for voltage, hence P=IE as in Ohm's Law
I was taught in school P=IV, from reading various forums and such (I believe the most recent that I read touching on this was on Quora), using E is outdated and V is the current convention. I learned Ohm's Law 19 years ago and had never seen the use of E for voltage until a few months ago to be honest. Perhaps this varies depending on country? I'm in Canada.
@@technerd9655 e is for electro motive force from generators
I can’t believe I just watched someone build a custom power brick lmao
For funsies, you can wire in a 1 kilohm resistor in series with a bi-color (2-lead) red/green LED for the 9v AC output indication. 🤓
2:40 I can hear you thinking that they forgot the REMs after the line numbers :p
Haha, maybe. ;)
This case would be very appropriate for Oric Atmos power supply. ;-)
where did you get your bolt / electrical pliers? I like them
Good video, though I was a little disappointed. I was hoping you would go into more details about why the original power bricks fail, and what that does to that machine, including opening up both to point to the relevant components. I guess the history of power brick failures would be for another video.
Oh my, those pins would have been handy when I built my ZX Spectrum power supply. The DIN plug has 6 pins there!😐 Do those pins have a special designation?
Good game at the end :)
Hi Jan!
Where you get this beautiful case? :)
It's a Bahar brand case, Hamburg/Germany based company. Linked in the video description. I think it's not easily available outside Europe though.
@@JanBeta The postage is more expensive on Amazon than the case, and Aliexpress don't sell it anymore unfortunately. No red ones on Amazon either. Looks like a nice case.
@@stephenvalente3296 Go to the Vange Mould store on AliExpress, they are the manufacturers. Various sizesand colours are available in the 'Iron Metal Box' category.
Nice Tipps Jan! Thank you as always, but a really good JB video would end in drilling holes all over the place and do something scary ;)
My 6 year old daughter also likes to play Donald Duck on the C64 :)
Did you know that Donald Duck's Playground was one of the first major projects from Al Lowe (who went on to become the creator of Leisure Suit Larry and other games)?
@@JanBeta I wouldn't particularly want to have a 6 year old playing Leisure Suit Larry though.
I love Donald Duck's Playground! Just showed it to my 5 year old nephew a few months back
Why does no one have both power leads only coming out of the back so it will be neater and more conveient on your desk it;s the biggist grip all retro computer owners have.
Nice!
When I made my PSU I used a MIDI cable so I didn't have to mess with a DIN. Sadly the cables were THIN really thin. I only got 4.5V. It works though.......until I add in the U2+. Then it drops further to 3.5V. The system sort of works, but the colors are glitchy. You can play games, but they look like crap. I didn't know because I only checked voltages without the U2+ and one day I checked with it. I'm like OMG no wonder why it doesn't work. I had already replaced the PLA and the color ram but no change. So those are probably fine. Now I power the U2+ with an external USB cable and everything works great now. I may just get a black brick of death and salvage the cord off that. I know that can handle the current.
It's such a shame that the diode wasn't D2. You could have sent Star Wars fans nuts by checking R2D2.
The question is: How much did you pay for all of the parts?
That FC13 song reminds me a bit of Stranger Things.
will this work on an amiga 500?
Nope, the Amiga range uses +12 and -12 volts along with 5 volts, while the C64 uses 9 volts and 5 volts to operate. Also the Amiga uses a square power input (like on the C128) instead of the round DIN style power input. The power draw on an Amiga will be considerably higher due to the internal floppy drive, internal trap door expansions, etc.
With an adapter, you can use this on a C=128.
fuse ?
würde es nicht einfach reichen eine Sicherung in den c64 zu Löten wenn das Netzteil das gute stück vernichten kann?
Eine Sicherung reicht leider nicht, die würde zwar bei zu viel Strom (z.B., wenn eine Komponente im C64 einen Kurzschluss verursacht) schützen - und das auch eher ungenau und langsam, das Problem ist eine zu hohe Spannung vom Netzteil, die sehr schnell die versorgten Chips killt.
@@JanBeta uff dann sollte ich bei meinen guten alten C64 auch mal nach bessern 🤯
Here's another power supply to add to your list:
Keelog's OLED equipped switchmode power supply.
www.keelog.com/c64-psu-oled-digital-gray-us-replacement-commodore-64-power-supply-us-plug/
(They also sell similar OLED switchmode supply for other computers from the same era.)
Also, Protip: for that mains cable, you stripped a long section of the outer insulation off. Next time leave a little bit, make a short slit, and fold it back over itself, *THEN* ziptie it in place. The folded over section is generally too wide to escape the cable gland, that way. Cheers!
would never use double-sided tape, easy to loosen.
I would have used (M3 Hex Nut Spacing Screw Brass) search for it on the internet
Nice video again, someone must get you a heat gun so you don't singe your fingers with that lighter!
he's got one
Yes, I‘m just too lazy to break it out to shrink heatshrink in most cases... :D