Even as a professional gardener and graduated phytopathologist/botanist I could learn here. Hi and thanks from Germany. World's best gardening channel here. Honestly I am shocked about many amateur gardening Videos...
After watching your videos, my work efficiency improved by 1000-fold. I can't thank God enough for introducing you to me. Being my teacher, you will always be in my prayers. Stay blessed! 💕
You can put seeds into a big plastic bag AS LONG AS you have desiccant packs in it. What you can't do is put seeds into very small plastic bags, each bag for a different type of seed because you won't have desiccant, unless you live in a dry climate. Or, you can put them into small plastic bags if the dew point in the room you're in is like 55 F or lower. In which case there isn't enough moisture in the air to make any difference but if you want you can put something in the bag with the seeds that also absorbs moisture, like some rice grains. The problem with common mistakes is the HUGE variation there is in growing/environmental conditions along with a large variation in the things people grow.
You sir have the very best channel on no nonsense gardening period...I feel like I am listening to my own experiences being echoed over the years with all of the mistakes and successes refined. A huge #11 to your list of mistakes is thinking artificial light is adapting plants to the real deal also known as our sun. Hardening off plants to this true powerful light source is paramount , especially the longer they have been under fake lighting reality. :o) Excellent wisdom for all of us growers new and old of which is why I promote your channel to my customers. Take care.
Common sense and logic here. It resonates with my own gardening experience. Our year one high school biology teacher used to shout at us if we said the word 'dirt'. "Dirt is what you get under your fingernails - Soil is what plants grow in." I've never forgotten that - in 60 years. 🌱🪴🌴
New subscriber here. I came upon your videos and I like your thoroughness at explaining different processes. I will be checking out the rest of your playlist throughout the year, I'm sure.
The longer you save seeds, the lower the germination rate. I sprout seeds using use cell pots because I grow a lot of vegetables. I use a brand name seed starting mix and add a small amount of fertilizer once the the true leaves grow. You'd be surprised how large the plants grow in these small cell pots. The roots become cramped but when planted in the ground the roots spread fast. After they are about 1" - 2" tall I put the seedlings outside in a covered raised bed to they can adapt to outside conditions. It took me decades to come up with this technique. You have some great advice.
Guilty as charged. I've done like half of those mistakes + I'm no green thumb = no wonder my plants keep dying. T_T thank you for this video. I need to learn more.
Excellent information, thank you! I kind of knew to use a fan, but I thought it was more for getting your seedlings stronger. The fan blowing on the seedlings make the stems move and in turn make them stronger. What are your thoughts on soil block makers. I recently purchased one and want to give it a try. I think I’m going to start all my annuals in them and my perennials I’m going to be starting in pots as you suggested. I can’t wait until we get closer to our last frost date so I can start some of my seeds. I’m also thinking that if I have enough light I can start some of my perennials now? Just a few, because I know they’re going to take a long time to develop into something that is big enough to be able to plant in the ground. I will use your baggie method to get the seeds going, then transfer them into a growing medium. I love your videos, please keep them coming, they are so informational!! Thank you again! 💚🙃
I use a dome to get more sun on my seedlings during cooler days but keep more on the dry side and thermometer to keep track of the temps. I open the top to allow air flow to prevent fungus problems.
Thanks i am living here in Southern Ontario and so happy to find someone from Canada. I have learned so much from your videos and plan to implement them this year. I have a big problem with fungus files right now keeping me back from starting my seeds.
It makes you wonder how seeds germinate in the ground on their own.🤞I put my flower seed heads in the compost heap. When it comes eventually to spread it on the garden I get so many self sowers. They look amazing.
Each seed is acclimated to the dynamics of its native climate and environment. If we are germinating them manually, we have to recreate the processes that naturally takes place in their natural habitat .
When i first started growing my food i used egg cartons and it worked very well the following year i tried recycled toilet tissue rolls and that was a mixed bag mostly failure.the next year i tried to make a greenhouse with a shelf and clear shower curtain another mixed bag of failure.the following year we invested in a greenhouse and its been on ever since.this year i had no luck with jalepeno or other peppers but grew acorn spaghetti squashes and orange bell peppers tomato yellow and zuchinni dill.my cukes also didnt grow nor basil mafigold thyme and couple other things
Fabulous video! In summary, the top 10 seed-starting mistakes (my notes in parentheses): 1. Not storing seeds properly. Do not put them in the freezer. To preserve seeds for more than 6 months, put them in the refrigerator in paper envelopes. The fridge is cool and dry, and the paper will help prevent mold. 2. Not pretreating your seeds properly. Vegetable seeds don’t usually need to be pretreated, but perennials and annuals typically do. Read your seed package for directions. (Note: detailed directions are often printed on the inside of the package!) 3. Stratifying your seeds in the fridge without wetting them first. Seeds need moisture to germinate. 4. Using a pot that’s too small. Seedlings need a lot of space for their roots. Too quickly, they overgrow little cell pots and need to be transplanted (which is traumatic everytime). It’s better to use 3 1/2 or 4” pots in the first place. 5. Don’t use poor quality soil. Soil’s not even the best medium for germination. Use a name brand peat or coir mix, like ProMix. Stick with it every year. 6. Wet (or soak?) the seed before planting. Keep the pot moist. But as soon as it germinates, let the surface dry out before rewatering. Otherwise, roots will ‘damp-off’ and die plus hatch fungus knats. 7. Use a fan to circulate air 24/7. It will help strengthen seedling stems and aid in drying the soil surface. (This is akin to the art and science of stewarding bonsai, where gardeners are taught to gently stress the trunk and branches to encourage stronger bark) 8. Heating mats are only necessary if the air around them is particularly cold, such as a basement. Even then, they should only be used to germinate. 9. Plastic domes are great to preserve moisture and humidity for germination, but should come off once seedlings emerge. 10. Give seedlings as much light during the natural day as possible. Tall stalky seedling growth can be a sign of insufficient light.
4. Yeah sure thing there. If I put out 300 - 500 starts a year I'm using a 72 cell flat in a 1020 tray because I use seed starting mix because the most recommended thing to do to get seedlings growing is using a sterile mix when growing indoors. It would cost WAY too much money to use seed starting mix in large pots, and I don't have the space in my house for 3" pots while starting 200 - 350 plants (always have extras). I don't have issues transplanting but then I don't try to start seed indoors for plants that say you shouldn't transplant them. For anything else where it says you can start indoors, I start indoors and it's never been a problem and add that to other people, including MIgardener who sells seed for a business who starts stuff in either 50 or 72 cell trays and he says a common mistake people make is transplanting TOO SOON! 8. Depends on the seed type. There is no single answer for this. For instance while some peppers will germinate in soil temps under 80 F, they germinate much better in soil temps 80 - 84 F, and hot peppers are already notoriously finicky. I soak pepper seeds for 12 hours (room temp water), then plant into cells, bring the soil temp up to a range of 82 - 84 with a heat mat until most germinate, I plant 2 seeds in a cell and get near 100% germination, and I start seeing sprouts in 4 days. Refer to a soil temp chart for different types of plants, let that be your guide however there's a bit of variation on this one, but I KNOW what works for me with pepper and a heat mat is required because they're indoors and I can't keep a house at 82 - 84 degrees. On the other hand, for lettuce, I use a standard temp for all types even though there's actually a range of about 10 degrees for soil temp that's ideal and for some lettuce, if soil temp is over 75 F it can terminate the germination and the seeds want to be dormant. So for just this ONE type of plant there's a bit of variation but on a soil temp chart it treats all lettuce the same. So for lettuce, I find I get the best results if I put them in a wet paper towel with another paper towel underneath to hold the water (you don't want the seed floating in water, but you want them wet), then put them in an ice chest WITH an ice pack AND the ice chest open a little to let in light AND I maintain the temp below 70 F, and try to maintain it 60 - 68 F. Within 24 hours various types will have rooted. Within 48 hours most will have rooted and within 72 hours almost any type of lettuce will have rooted. So, if I plant say, 10 types of lettuce, I'll have 10 quart size storage bags sealed up with wet paper towels inside of them, in an ice chest with an ice pack. I check all of them at 36 hours and for any type that's rooted, I put all the seeds of that type into cells. For the ones that go back into the ice chest, I run cold water through them to clean, mist inside the plastic bag with hydrogen peroxide, and then I check 24 hours later. For the lettuce I put into 72 cell flats that go into 1020 trays, I put ice packs under each tray (thin ice packs, about 1/2" thick) and I now keep the temp in the 60 - 72 F range for the seed cells UNTIL I have all the germination I expect and then I don't worry about temps because the room is in a decent range for growing plants. If that seems like a bit of work, there are types of lettuce that I can't grow if I simply plant them into cells and put them on a rack underneath lights. However there are types of lettuce that sprout pretty easily. With what I do, from the start of getting them into a ice chest to the point of them sprouting in their trays can be 3 days, and most will have sprouted in 5 days, even the ones that are most stubborn to grow unless they're kept cool. There are other issues with what's said in this video, because there is no single rule for any type of vegy that a gardener might want to grow, other than do your best to keep disease and pests away from seedlings until they have some growth on their true leaves.
Thank you for the useful information. You said that the seeds have germinated before we see them and to stop keeping the top of the soil moist as soon as they germinate. So how can we tell when to stop keeping the top of the soil moist to avoid damping off?
My hellebore and allium seeds are germinating outside in punnets, exposed to the frost. Should i keep them out there with so much moisture (we get a lot of winter rain) or would they be better in my cool glasshouse with less water - thanks
Thanks for great information. I see someone mention that you're from Ontario, Canada. Great, so must US warmer client info. We live in Zone 3 which is even more difficult than S ON. Would it be possible for you to make some videos in starting seed in 3? does Winter sowing work best here?
Can I use fungicides after seeds germinate to prevent root rot .? Or add fungicide to the potting mix before planting the germinating seeds or the seeds themselves? Already thank you for your guidance. I am a begginer
My space gets to 53 at night, but it depends on the variety and cold hardiness. But I am growing severval species peppers tomatoes kale squash muskamelon lettuce onions herbs. All growing good! 😁
@@Gardenfundamentals1 ....I really hope i didn't kill my berry seeds then. I've been trying to make them grow in pure sunlight inside a plastic container.
I have tried growing plants over the past three years nothing works. We have always had a garden and we start our seeds off the same as we have for sixty years. Something just seems different
I've been seeing gardeners complaining of crop issues from the chemicals there disperse behind the planes. The haze seems to be blocking the sun for from global warming counter plan, or some people think there are toxins being dumped on us n are gardens
It was a bit confusing about not storing unused seeds in plastic.....and then you saying that you store them in plastic envelopes....with only a recommendation to go to another site
my comment about that confusion was not in response to this video....but to one of the Baggy method of gardening.....I'm going to go to that site, thanks.....and post the same question.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 guess I'm looking at how you "store" the ungerminated seeds in the refrigerator in the plastic bags....and how you take them out periodically to examine........so I'm using the word "store" in a different interpretation than you are offering?
Excellent video! You know that place in the arctic that supposedly holds the worlds seeds? How are they storing them? BTW, if freezing works, and the glacier ice as severely depleted enough to reveal squirrels that died 30,000 years ago, maybe one could find some 30,000 year old seeds.
Even as a professional gardener and graduated phytopathologist/botanist I could learn here. Hi and thanks from Germany. World's best gardening channel here.
Honestly I am shocked about many amateur gardening Videos...
After watching your videos, my work efficiency improved by 1000-fold. I can't thank God enough for introducing you to me. Being my teacher, you will always be in my prayers. Stay blessed! 💕
feel exactly the same about Dr. Pavlis,
You can put seeds into a big plastic bag AS LONG AS you have desiccant packs in it. What you can't do is put seeds into very small plastic bags, each bag for a different type of seed because you won't have desiccant, unless you live in a dry climate. Or, you can put them into small plastic bags if the dew point in the room you're in is like 55 F or lower. In which case there isn't enough moisture in the air to make any difference but if you want you can put something in the bag with the seeds that also absorbs moisture, like some rice grains.
The problem with common mistakes is the HUGE variation there is in growing/environmental conditions along with a large variation in the things people grow.
You sir have the very best channel on no nonsense gardening period...I feel like I am listening to my own experiences being echoed over the years with all of the mistakes and successes refined. A huge #11 to your list of mistakes is thinking artificial light is adapting plants to the real deal also known as our sun. Hardening off plants to this true powerful light source is paramount , especially the longer they have been under fake lighting reality. :o) Excellent wisdom for all of us growers new and old of which is why I promote your channel to my customers. Take care.
I love the direct way you teach you make me want to hang onto every word you say. Thank you very much 🌱 I’m a new subscriber.
I just learned about winter sowing, so I tried it this year. I've had a lot of success!
Common sense and logic here. It resonates with my own gardening experience. Our year one high school biology teacher used to shout at us if we said the word 'dirt'. "Dirt is what you get under your fingernails - Soil is what plants grow in." I've never forgotten that - in 60 years. 🌱🪴🌴
New subscriber here. I came upon your videos and I like your thoroughness at explaining different processes. I will be checking out the rest of your playlist throughout the year, I'm sure.
The longer you save seeds, the lower the germination rate. I sprout seeds using use cell pots because I grow a lot of vegetables. I use a brand name seed starting mix and add a small amount of fertilizer once the the true leaves grow. You'd be surprised how large the plants grow in these small cell pots. The roots become cramped but when planted in the ground the roots spread fast. After they are about 1" - 2" tall I put the seedlings outside in a covered raised bed to they can adapt to outside conditions. It took me decades to come up with this technique. You have some great advice.
قال الله تعالى ( أأنتم تزرعونه أم نحن الزارعون ) thanks for these rich science information
This, and your baggie method, have given me success, finally, in germinating perennial seeds from my garden!
Oh wow i thought the freezer was the best.thank you!
I really enjoy your video's and your experience. I really agree with the fan, it makes the plants so much robust and stronger.
At what speed do you use the fan though and is it continuously blowing to them 24/7? Direct or swiveling? how about a ceiling fan?
Guilty as charged. I've done like half of those mistakes + I'm no green thumb = no wonder my plants keep dying. T_T thank you for this video. I need to learn more.
Excellent information, thank you! I kind of knew to use a fan, but I thought it was more for getting your seedlings stronger. The fan blowing on the seedlings make the stems move and in turn make them stronger. What are your thoughts on soil block makers. I recently purchased one and want to give it a try. I think I’m going to start all my annuals in them and my perennials I’m going to be starting in pots as you suggested. I can’t wait until we get closer to our last frost date so I can start some of my seeds. I’m also thinking that if I have enough light I can start some of my perennials now? Just a few, because I know they’re going to take a long time to develop into something that is big enough to be able to plant in the ground. I will use your baggie method to get the seeds going, then transfer them into a growing medium. I love your videos, please keep them coming, they are so informational!! Thank you again! 💚🙃
You are a wealth of excellent information. So glad I found your channel.
Wow, this man has amazing knowledge to share. So fortunate to have found this. Thank you.
The fan advise is a game changer for me. Thanks for talking about it.
I use a dome to get more sun on my seedlings during cooler days but keep more on the dry side and thermometer to keep track of the temps. I open the top to allow air flow to prevent fungus problems.
Thanks i am living here in Southern Ontario and so happy to find someone from Canada. I have learned so much from your videos and plan to implement them this year. I have a big problem with fungus files right now keeping me back from starting my seeds.
Are they fungus gnats : www.gardenfundamentals.com/fungus-gnats-get-rid-houseplants/
God bless you. Thank you so very much. This is the best info Ive heard online explained so easily. I hope to make you proud!
Gold advice. THANK YOU VERY MUCH🙏🏼
biodegradable pots are my go too
It makes you wonder how seeds germinate in the ground on their own.🤞I put my flower seed heads in the compost heap. When it comes eventually to spread it on the garden I get so many self sowers. They look amazing.
Each seed is acclimated to the dynamics of its native climate and environment. If we are germinating them manually, we have to recreate the processes that naturally takes place in their natural habitat .
When i first started growing my food i used egg cartons and it worked very well the following year i tried recycled toilet tissue rolls and that was a mixed bag mostly failure.the next year i tried to make a greenhouse with a shelf and clear shower curtain another mixed bag of failure.the following year we invested in a greenhouse and its been on ever since.this year i had no luck with jalepeno or other peppers but grew acorn spaghetti squashes and orange bell peppers tomato yellow and zuchinni dill.my cukes also didnt grow nor basil mafigold thyme and couple other things
Looking sharp in this video!!😊 🤩
I've used heating mats for germinating my peppers and have had good results.
I germinate seeds in soil and have good results. I also use egg cartons to stratify my lavender.
I also grow in heavy soil compost coco blends. I want that plant getting the real deal right from the rip!
Excellent information. Thanks buddy😊
Thank you for making this video. NE Georgia.
Excelent video thank you for everything i learn a lot
Great advice!! Thankyou!🙂
Fabulous video! In summary, the top 10 seed-starting mistakes (my notes in parentheses):
1. Not storing seeds properly. Do not put them in the freezer. To preserve seeds for more than 6 months, put them in the refrigerator in paper envelopes. The fridge is cool and dry, and the paper will help prevent mold.
2. Not pretreating your seeds properly. Vegetable seeds don’t usually need to be pretreated, but perennials and annuals typically do. Read your seed package for directions. (Note: detailed directions are often printed on the inside of the package!)
3. Stratifying your seeds in the fridge without wetting them first. Seeds need moisture to germinate.
4. Using a pot that’s too small. Seedlings need a lot of space for their roots. Too quickly, they overgrow little cell pots and need to be transplanted (which is traumatic everytime). It’s better to use 3 1/2 or 4” pots in the first place.
5. Don’t use poor quality soil. Soil’s not even the best medium for germination. Use a name brand peat or coir mix, like ProMix. Stick with it every year.
6. Wet (or soak?) the seed before planting. Keep the pot moist. But as soon as it germinates, let the surface dry out before rewatering. Otherwise, roots will ‘damp-off’ and die plus hatch fungus knats.
7. Use a fan to circulate air 24/7. It will help strengthen seedling stems and aid in drying the soil surface. (This is akin to the art and science of stewarding bonsai, where gardeners are taught to gently stress the trunk and branches to encourage stronger bark)
8. Heating mats are only necessary if the air around them is particularly cold, such as a basement. Even then, they should only be used to germinate.
9. Plastic domes are great to preserve moisture and humidity for germination, but should come off once seedlings emerge.
10. Give seedlings as much light during the natural day as possible. Tall stalky seedling growth can be a sign of insufficient light.
4. Yeah sure thing there. If I put out 300 - 500 starts a year I'm using a 72 cell flat in a 1020 tray because I use seed starting mix because the most recommended thing to do to get seedlings growing is using a sterile mix when growing indoors. It would cost WAY too much money to use seed starting mix in large pots, and I don't have the space in my house for 3" pots while starting 200 - 350 plants (always have extras). I don't have issues transplanting but then I don't try to start seed indoors for plants that say you shouldn't transplant them. For anything else where it says you can start indoors, I start indoors and it's never been a problem and add that to other people, including MIgardener who sells seed for a business who starts stuff in either 50 or 72 cell trays and he says a common mistake people make is transplanting TOO SOON!
8. Depends on the seed type. There is no single answer for this.
For instance while some peppers will germinate in soil temps under 80 F, they germinate much better in soil temps 80 - 84 F, and hot peppers are already notoriously finicky. I soak pepper seeds for 12 hours (room temp water), then plant into cells, bring the soil temp up to a range of 82 - 84 with a heat mat until most germinate, I plant 2 seeds in a cell and get near 100% germination, and I start seeing sprouts in 4 days.
Refer to a soil temp chart for different types of plants, let that be your guide however there's a bit of variation on this one, but I KNOW what works for me with pepper and a heat mat is required because they're indoors and I can't keep a house at 82 - 84 degrees.
On the other hand, for lettuce, I use a standard temp for all types even though there's actually a range of about 10 degrees for soil temp that's ideal and for some lettuce, if soil temp is over 75 F it can terminate the germination and the seeds want to be dormant. So for just this ONE type of plant there's a bit of variation but on a soil temp chart it treats all lettuce the same. So for lettuce, I find I get the best results if I put them in a wet paper towel with another paper towel underneath to hold the water (you don't want the seed floating in water, but you want them wet), then put them in an ice chest WITH an ice pack AND the ice chest open a little to let in light AND I maintain the temp below 70 F, and try to maintain it 60 - 68 F. Within 24 hours various types will have rooted. Within 48 hours most will have rooted and within 72 hours almost any type of lettuce will have rooted. So, if I plant say, 10 types of lettuce, I'll have 10 quart size storage bags sealed up with wet paper towels inside of them, in an ice chest with an ice pack. I check all of them at 36 hours and for any type that's rooted, I put all the seeds of that type into cells. For the ones that go back into the ice chest, I run cold water through them to clean, mist inside the plastic bag with hydrogen peroxide, and then I check 24 hours later. For the lettuce I put into 72 cell flats that go into 1020 trays, I put ice packs under each tray (thin ice packs, about 1/2" thick) and I now keep the temp in the 60 - 72 F range for the seed cells UNTIL I have all the germination I expect and then I don't worry about temps because the room is in a decent range for growing plants.
If that seems like a bit of work, there are types of lettuce that I can't grow if I simply plant them into cells and put them on a rack underneath lights. However there are types of lettuce that sprout pretty easily. With what I do, from the start of getting them into a ice chest to the point of them sprouting in their trays can be 3 days, and most will have sprouted in 5 days, even the ones that are most stubborn to grow unless they're kept cool.
There are other issues with what's said in this video, because there is no single rule for any type of vegy that a gardener might want to grow, other than do your best to keep disease and pests away from seedlings until they have some growth on their true leaves.
@ Great comment!
These are so important! Thank you 👍
Robert lots of info hear.
What are your thoughts on bottom watering?
Excellent presentatiom
What about seeds.? Do they need light before germination ?
Already thank you for your kind and professional reply.
Some do, and some need dark. Look up the germination requirements here:
www.onrockgarden.com/
Thank you for the useful information. You said that the seeds have germinated before we see them and to stop keeping the top of the soil moist as soon as they germinate. So how can we tell when to stop keeping the top of the soil moist to avoid damping off?
Just reduce watering when you see green.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 OK, thanks a lot.
Thank you. I've got one pk of green tomatoes i really want to grow. I've not started much from seeds. Do the baggie starters need sunlight?
tomatoes don't need light to germinate.
My hellebore and allium seeds are germinating outside in punnets, exposed to the frost. Should i keep them out there with so much moisture (we get a lot of winter rain) or would they be better in my cool glasshouse with less water - thanks
Better control in a greenhouse - but temperatures may not be as low?
Thanks for great information. I see someone mention that you're from Ontario, Canada. Great, so must US warmer client info. We live in Zone 3 which is even more difficult than S ON. Would it be possible for you to make some videos in starting seed in 3? does Winter sowing work best here?
Most of my seed starting is done inside - so zone does not matter.
Can I use fungicides after seeds germinate to prevent root rot .?
Or add fungicide to the potting mix before planting the germinating seeds or the seeds themselves?
Already thank you for your guidance.
I am a begginer
You can use it - but you should not need it.
for damping off - sprinkle some cinnamon on the seedlings.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 or perhaps spray with a dilution of hydrogen peroxide and water???
What is the lowest temperature I can grow seedlings once they have germinated? My space bottoms out at 50f, depending on the day.
My space gets to 53 at night, but it depends on the variety and cold hardiness. But I am growing severval species peppers tomatoes kale squash muskamelon lettuce onions herbs. All growing good! 😁
Can't see your link on top right hand corner.
Pls send it to me here
Thanks
th-cam.com/video/dirz0WIMQi0/w-d-xo.html
I carry my seedling trays outside in the morning, mist them once and return them indoors in the afternoon. Is that a bad approach?
Not necessarily, but I don't know why you are doing it. Once outside - keep them there.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 We have monkeys sir that will grab and eat the bigger plants to eat them very early in the morning before I get up.
❤❤❤
Great video. Are you using Promix because of the micorhical funghi?
No. You do not need to add mycorrhizal fungi to the garden or seedlings.
I'm so confused on whether seeds need to germinate in partial sunlight or direct sunlight for blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and blackberries
I know of no seed that needs full sunlight to germinate. Some need low light levels, and some need dark.
Look up each seed to find out what it needs.
th-cam.com/video/6cOzKAYG7DI/w-d-xo.html
@@Gardenfundamentals1 ....I really hope i didn't kill my berry seeds then. I've been trying to make them grow in pure sunlight inside a plastic container.
I have tried growing plants over the past three years nothing works. We have always had a garden and we start our seeds off the same as we have for sixty years. Something just seems different
I've been seeing gardeners complaining of crop issues from the chemicals there disperse behind the planes. The haze seems to be blocking the sun for from global warming counter plan, or some people think there are toxins being dumped on us n are gardens
@@waynegretzky8464 No we don't use the spray plane on the home Quarter for that reason. I'm talking about poor to no germination in the green house
Tried to save some Moon and Stars watermelon seeds in a ziplock. Yup, mold, mold, mold. Never again.
Pro mix mp and hp
Oops !! time to turn that heating mat off...
It was a bit confusing about not storing unused seeds in plastic.....and then you saying that you store them in plastic envelopes....with only a recommendation to go to another site
I don't store in plastic, unless I know the seed is killed by drying out.
my comment about that confusion was not in response to this video....but to one of the Baggy method of gardening.....I'm going to go to that site, thanks.....and post the same question.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 guess I'm looking at how you "store" the ungerminated seeds in the refrigerator in the plastic bags....and how you take them out periodically to examine........so I'm using the word "store" in a different interpretation than you are offering?
Excellent video! You know that place in the arctic that supposedly holds the worlds seeds? How are they storing them? BTW, if freezing works, and the glacier ice as severely depleted enough to reveal squirrels that died 30,000 years ago, maybe one could find some 30,000 year old seeds.