You've just served up the best explained education lesson I've ever come across, been almost 20 years in the education system and have never had anything explained so clearly as this video has done, well done Sir and Thank you so much
Thanks bud, don't really bother with commenting on TH-cam but this is exactly the video I been looking for just the right amount of everything ie: detail for my Brain digest , brilliant start off for me I been doing breakdowns for two years now and I have got pretty good but when it comes to wiring that's my weakness and have to make a educated guess from symptoms or have to call a friend to help me out but this video has helped me alot and put me on the path to strengthen my knowledge , thanks again honesty
Great video that’s the second wiring video of yours iv watched first was on Instagram and I can’t believe how much iv learnt your videos are brilliant so easy to follow and understand, breakdowns will be so much easier now thanks you and keep the great videos coming 10 out of 10
Great to see that you have used the earth wire correctly! No using it as a switch wire or not having one in the cable. You might already now.... **The earth wire protects the cable!** If mr/mrs DiYer chopped through or put a nail into one of the cables, if there was no continuity back to the FCU fused connection Unit ( 3 amp fuse) then continuity through the buildings wiring back to the fuse board ( Consumer Unit) there would not be enough fault current to earth (through the earth wire) to blow / trip the fuse / mcb and mr/mrs DIYer would receive a very nasty possibly fatal electric shock. If the installation was protected by a RCD Residual Current Device it would cut the power with in 20/30ms (very fast) and save you from receiving the shock, but older installations do not always have this fitted.
This clears up alot man! I cant i believe i didnt come across this sooner. Also just a quick question, what wires are at the bottom? Is it fused spur, pump and boiler wiring? And the roomstat?
Great video. I have an issue I can’t get my head round. The programmer is on and the hot water side powers up as it should as per the times set on the programmer. On the other hand when the central heating is supposed to kick in as per the times set in the programmer ( eg 7am), nothing kicks in. The only way I can get the central heating to turn on and off is by controlling it with the thermostat dial. What do you think the problem might be?
Can you tell me why my boiler keeps short cyling while heating the water in the cylinder please? Its anew thermostat, and heat exchanger has just been cleaned. Brand new pump too. The cylinder takes one hour from cold to get to 52 degrees. Thanks.
I have a Honeywell controller ST6400C1003 controller box fitted to a 14/19cBi Worcester boiler. The boiler and central heating run only when the controller is by passed is when the black hot water on cable is connected directly to the red hot water off cable, terminals 1 and 4. Anything you can suggest please? I have tried two controller boxes, both could be faulty but unsure how to test them.
Thanks, will consider that. I only run the central heating for 1 hr when nights are cold., so I don’t need a programmable controller. Is there a simple switch option instead ? Thank you.
My Hwell ST699 programmer doesn't trip on the timer ,but if I turn the spurred switch off/on it trips and runs. It might run the whole time or only 10mins or so [ but trips on if I turn the spur off/on again] Any ideas? Could the internal battery need replacing? Any ideas appreciated before I fork out for a plumber/electrician/new programmer etc
I'm a 92+year old motor mechanic with hot water probs on my ST6400CH WITH THE FACEPLATE of ST9400C I HAVE NO HOT WATER TODAY. COMMENT ..i CAN NEARLY UNDERSTAND YOUR EXPLANATION, WHICH I I THINK IS BRILLIANT. i WILL JUST HAVE TO CALL MY CH ENGINEER. BUT THANKS
If the programmer was faulty and you put a link wire between live and hot water I'm guessing that would mean the three port valve would be constantly open in the heating position so customer wouldn't be able to get hw? Because the valve wouldn't be in mid position ever?
I have a Vaillant ecotec 428 with a y plan system.I have 5 wires from the boiler.Live.Neutral and Earth then a black and grey wire which must be switch live and pump live but how do you find out which is which?
thanks for the upload.. is it fair to say that if the programmer for dhw is off, 240v will be present up to the cylinder stat off , thus also 240 at the grey of the 3 port??. Therefore, the only way for for no voltage to the grey on the 3 port is for the programmer to be on for dhw??
i dont know if i am wrong i am just learning. so please dont mind if u think its stupid question. because i think there is an error i could be wrong. so from programmer we have one wire to turn off hot water which then link to grey on port valve. so where it has link with port valve it should be with incoming wire dont you think so? otherwise when the temprature hits level it wont stop hotwater side i guess coz from programmer we giving power to grey wire on port valve sorry if i am wrong just got this question new engineer so tryna learn 😂😂 thanks
Love the channel. SUBSCRIBE & LIKE people. I have a question for you on a y-plan error I gave up on. No 230v to the white wire when calling for hw and ch on sundial wiring center. Programmer was sending 230v to ch on and hw on. I suspected that it might be the wireless room stat (although I did test it). Who knows, they are gonna have tive with it.
You've just served up the best explained education lesson I've ever come across, been almost 20 years in the education system and have never had anything explained so clearly as this video has done,
well done Sir and Thank you so much
Thank you so much for this comment, I love feedback and this made filming this worth while 🙏🏻
I beg to second. I have seen alot of videos and this is second to none. I felt this instant connection that got me engaged.
Thank you.
Very clear and straight forward explanation! Number one on TH-cam!
Thank you for your feedback, really appreciate it and I’m glad you liked it 👍🏻 head over to my Instagram page for more content 👍🏻
By far you explained it the best
Fantastic video ...content and time taken to explain both really appreciated 👍
Thanks bud, don't really bother with commenting on TH-cam but this is exactly the video I been looking for just the right amount of everything ie: detail for my Brain digest , brilliant start off for me I been doing breakdowns for two years now and I have got pretty good but when it comes to wiring that's my weakness and have to make a educated guess from symptoms or have to call a friend to help me out but this video has helped me alot and put me on the path to strengthen my knowledge , thanks again honesty
Thank you for your feedback that’s great news I’m glad it’s helped you 🙏🏻 got a video coming soon on a S plan fault finding 👍🏻
love this explanation of what I used to consider as my last port of call during fault analysis... its now my go to - thank you
One of best video and best video in the entire TH-cam.
Welldone 👏👏👏
You make it so easy man I appreciate these videos a lot.
Great advice. All homeowners should read this (and a few fiiters too lol!). Thank you for de-bunking a central heating electrical system. Cheers!
No problem glad it helped 🙏🏻
Great video that’s the second wiring video of yours iv watched first was on Instagram and I can’t believe how much iv learnt your videos are brilliant so easy to follow and understand, breakdowns will be so much easier now thanks you and keep the great videos coming 10 out of 10
Thank you so much for the great feedback, really appreciate this 🙏🏻
❤ thank you for taking the time to do this video. Nice slow breakdown
Best video EVER! Well delivered and easy to understand. Good job 👏
Thanks for the feedback
You should do some teaching series - excellent, precise and very helpful! Thanks u
Great to see that you have used the earth wire correctly! No using it as a switch wire or not having one in the cable. You might already now.... **The earth wire protects the cable!** If mr/mrs DiYer chopped through or put a nail into one of the cables, if there was no continuity back to the FCU fused connection Unit ( 3 amp fuse) then continuity through the buildings wiring back to the fuse board ( Consumer Unit) there would not be enough fault current to earth (through the earth wire) to blow / trip the fuse / mcb and mr/mrs DIYer would receive a very nasty possibly fatal electric shock. If the installation was protected by a RCD Residual Current Device it would cut the power with in 20/30ms (very fast) and save you from receiving the shock, but older installations do not always have this fitted.
Absolutely brilliant. Best explanation enjoyed.
Thank you for your feedback hope it helped
That’s a great video very clear and concise thoroughly enjoyed it.
Well done 👏👏👏
Thanks for your comment really appreciate the feedback
Couldn't agree more with Gary C. Thank you so much
Thanks for your feedback much appreciated
Best ever video explained. Thank you
Thank you for your feedback really appreciate it
Very good video Thanks, I was struggling but after this video I am ok with it
Thank you for your feedback, glad this helped, head over to my Instagram page for more content. I will look into doing an S plan video 👍🏻
This clears up alot man! I cant i believe i didnt come across this sooner. Also just a quick question, what wires are at the bottom? Is it fused spur, pump and boiler wiring? And the roomstat?
Thanks for the video much appreciated one question on room thermostat which number is live and switch live 3 or 1 please let me know thanks
Thanks for explaining everything so well.
Thanks for your feedback really do appreciate it
This is such an amazing video, have you got one for s plan?
Thanks mate and yeah search my videos and there is one on here. Also have a lot of helpful content on my insta page
Excellent video mate, thanks
Thank you hope it was helpful
Thank you so much for this video mate. Really helped with fault finding. Btw which brand tester are you using?
Great video. I have an issue I can’t get my head round. The programmer is on and the hot water side powers up as it should as per the times set on the programmer. On the other hand when the central heating is supposed to kick in as per the times set in the programmer ( eg 7am), nothing kicks in. The only way I can get the central heating to turn on and off is by controlling it with the thermostat dial. What do you think the problem might be?
Best video I have seen mate if possible can you try and do one with a serviceplus s17r
Great video, well done.
Thank you really appreciate the feedback
All I can say brilliant, most tricks on hw is off ( grey was confuse me alot ) great explanation
Re. wiring of the 10 way is usually done by the plumber- no?
Can you tell me why my boiler keeps short cyling while heating the water in the cylinder please? Its anew thermostat, and heat exchanger has just been cleaned. Brand new pump too. The cylinder takes one hour from cold to get to 52 degrees. Thanks.
I have a Honeywell controller ST6400C1003 controller box fitted to a 14/19cBi Worcester boiler. The boiler and central heating run only when the controller is by passed is when the black hot water on cable is connected directly to the red hot water off cable, terminals 1 and 4. Anything you can suggest please? I have tried two controller boxes, both could be faulty but unsure how to test them.
Get a Honeywell st4900c instead it’s a 7 day twin channel programmer.
Thanks, will consider that. I only run the central heating for 1 hr when nights are cold., so I don’t need a programmable controller. Is there a simple switch option instead ? Thank you.
Hi. I have a oil boiler with pump doing working as a system boiler. What’s the best way to link up a time clock and a stat. Thanks
Hi Gary what voltage tester you using mate
Love this video thank you so much brother
Great explanation!
Thanks for your feedback 🙏🏻
Most exellent sir,thanku
My Hwell ST699 programmer doesn't trip on the timer ,but if I turn the spurred switch off/on it trips and runs. It might run the whole time or only 10mins or so [ but trips on if I turn the spur off/on again] Any ideas? Could the internal battery need replacing? Any ideas appreciated before I fork out for a plumber/electrician/new programmer etc
I'm a 92+year old motor mechanic with hot water probs on my ST6400CH WITH THE FACEPLATE of ST9400C I HAVE NO HOT WATER TODAY. COMMENT ..i CAN NEARLY UNDERSTAND YOUR EXPLANATION, WHICH I I THINK IS BRILLIANT. i WILL JUST HAVE TO CALL MY CH ENGINEER. BUT THANKS
If the programmer was faulty and you put a link wire between live and hot water I'm guessing that would mean the three port valve would be constantly open in the heating position so customer wouldn't be able to get hw? Because the valve wouldn't be in mid position ever?
Please can you do video about S plan please
Good effort 👍
Thanks for your feedback
Brilliant explanation
Thank you for your feedback
Very good video.
Thnk you hope it helps
Great video
I have a Vaillant ecotec 428 with a y plan system.I have 5 wires from the boiler.Live.Neutral and Earth then a black and grey wire which must be switch live and pump live but how do you find out which is which?
Check the boiler wiring diagram as this will tell you what goes where
Like your style 👍
Thank you
Very well done !
Thank you for your feedback
You are a Genius and thank you for the BREAKDOWN BIBLE BOOK
You absolute legend
Thank you hope it helped 🙏🏻
thanks for the upload..
is it fair to say that if the programmer for dhw is off, 240v will be present up to the cylinder stat off , thus also 240 at the grey of the 3 port??.
Therefore, the only way for for no voltage to the grey on the 3 port is for the programmer to be on for dhw??
Yes mate that’s spot on
brill for revising. thanks
Glad it helped, thanks for the feedback 🙏🏻
i dont know if i am wrong i am just learning. so please dont mind if u think its stupid question. because i think there is an error i could be wrong.
so from programmer we have one wire to turn off hot water which then link to grey on port valve.
so where it has link with port valve it should be with incoming wire dont you think so?
otherwise when the temprature hits level it wont stop hotwater side i guess coz from programmer we giving power to grey wire on port valve
sorry if i am wrong just got this question new engineer so tryna learn 😂😂
thanks
Love the channel. SUBSCRIBE & LIKE people. I have a question for you on a y-plan error I gave up on. No 230v to the white wire when calling for hw and ch on sundial wiring center. Programmer was sending 230v to ch on and hw on. I suspected that it might be the wireless room stat (although I did test it). Who knows, they are gonna have tive with it.
I am sure you never came across any faults otherwise you would not keep checking the Live again Earth cable, have you heard of missing Neutral???
If instead of the link you just manually rearm the zone valve
Lost