Great vid. Really like the long detailed format. Helps people with not just understanding how to convert to a 136 but also just basic stuff like how to get to the bearings to grease, how to change gearing, change brakes, change track, etc.. Only 9 months until winter!
In this case the big wheels and offset Axel are used to make it go from a 129” to a 136” other benifits are Less rolling resistance, and bringing the studs straight up out of the Surface they are into as the track rolls around the wheels, helps with speed runs aswell and of-course it looks pretty sweet
The only thing I don't like is that the only way to center those drivers are to mount it back in the sled and take two straight Edged from the rear suspension tabs to the front of the tunnel and measure side to side iv had driver's off by 1/4 an inch that's why a lot of guys can never align there tracks properly it's off to one side!!
Ricks greaseable bearing is a good idea but for some reason it didn't hold the bearing tight to the tunnel,I had play between my flange bearing and tunnel no problems but I just put stock one back on this year, And with any Axys or matrix chassis you only have to pull those seals out once a year and get a little high quality grease in them...
It's different, the 137 has the smaller drivers, a lot less efficient there. Also the 137 has 2.86 pitch track, 2.52 is a better performing track. And I don't like a 137 feel, this gives me a 129 feel, better traction, better performance, much more efficient. I will do a follow up video after some riding to explain and hopefully compare to a 137 as well.
@@Hughgass1 Haven't taken the sled out yet, likely Sat or Sunday and I will have a video with my review. With the 129" Storm 150 track I saw about 96mph on snow, un studded. I kept gears the same so will see. I think theoretically I should see 10mph faster. I could have geared for a bit more top speed but that's not what I'm into.
@@Hughgass1 chaincase it says to fill until it starts to come out of fill hole and that the max is 310ml. Also in case you haven't done so, there's casting marks inside the fill plug (where you put the bit to loosen) that you should knock out with a punch so that you can put the bit all the way to the bottom and avoid stripping it.
@@krazykanucksperformance2242 thanks for the advice, I have a 21 xcr and I’m also doing a big wheel kit but I’m going for more top end. I have a 1.25 ripsaw with 108 studs, going to have my clutches balanced and get over drive. Keep up the good videos!
They haven’t had that since the pro ride chassis to my knowledge. Was a cool idea but lots of thread stripping went on back in the day. The new cases with no drain plug, drain out super easy they way the manual shows you to do it, so all good 🤙
I don't even have a snowmobile but I'm looking at a used 21 assault. This is a great video to learn about some of the maintenance steps. Thank you
Great vid. Really like the long detailed format. Helps people with not just understanding how to convert to a 136 but also just basic stuff like how to get to the bearings to grease, how to change gearing, change brakes, change track, etc.. Only 9 months until winter!
You guys have been quiet awaiting more great content!
Yea we have not had any new videos, still waiting for a 2022 Xcr 850 to show up 🤦♂️
Any new videos for 2022 ?
We will be getting back into some videos, let us know what you want to see
@@krazykanucksperformance2242 i am intetesested in if i can put the 2022 fourth wheel from the xcr on my 2021 vr1 137 ?
@@colbiecolbie6979 there should be no reason you can’t run the 4 wheel kit on your 137.
What's the advantage of the bigger axle wheels? Thanks Boosted!
In this case the big wheels and offset Axel are used to make it go from a 129” to a 136” other benifits are Less rolling resistance, and bringing the studs straight up out of the Surface they are into as the track rolls around the wheels, helps with speed runs aswell and of-course it looks pretty sweet
The only thing I don't like is that the only way to center those drivers are to mount it back in the sled and take two straight Edged from the rear suspension tabs to the front of the tunnel and measure side to side iv had driver's off by 1/4 an inch that's why a lot of guys can never align there tracks properly it's off to one side!!
should put a NorthStar Performance greaseable drive axle bearing kit in it at the same time.
I have not heard of this personally but will look into this.
@@krazykanucksperformance2242 check out his FB page. and put in his new arm bushing liners while you're ordering parts...
Ricks greaseable bearing is a good idea but for some reason it didn't hold the bearing tight to the tunnel,I had play between my flange bearing and tunnel no problems but I just put stock one back on this year, And with any Axys or matrix chassis you only have to pull those seals out once a year and get a little high quality grease in them...
Just curious why didn’t U just order a 137” when your doing pretty much the same thing and U can get a big wheel kit for the 137””?
It's different, the 137 has the smaller drivers, a lot less efficient there. Also the 137 has 2.86 pitch track, 2.52 is a better performing track. And I don't like a 137 feel, this gives me a 129 feel, better traction, better performance, much more efficient. I will do a follow up video after some riding to explain and hopefully compare to a 137 as well.
@@krazykanucksperformance2242 what have you seen for top speed with the big wheel kit? How much oil does the chain case take?
@@Hughgass1 Haven't taken the sled out yet, likely Sat or Sunday and I will have a video with my review. With the 129" Storm 150 track I saw about 96mph on snow, un studded. I kept gears the same so will see. I think theoretically I should see 10mph faster. I could have geared for a bit more top speed but that's not what I'm into.
@@Hughgass1 chaincase it says to fill until it starts to come out of fill hole and that the max is 310ml. Also in case you haven't done so, there's casting marks inside the fill plug (where you put the bit to loosen) that you should knock out with a punch so that you can put the bit all the way to the bottom and avoid stripping it.
@@krazykanucksperformance2242 thanks for the advice, I have a 21 xcr and I’m also doing a big wheel kit but I’m going for more top end. I have a 1.25 ripsaw with 108 studs, going to have my clutches balanced and get over drive. Keep up the good videos!
What brand is your 10 teeth driver
Vsp- Velocity Sled Performace
Nice work, fun to watch. Did they discontinue the chain case drain?
They haven’t had that since the pro ride chassis to my knowledge. Was a cool idea but lots of thread stripping went on back in the day. The new cases with no drain plug, drain out super easy they way the manual shows you to do it, so all good 🤙
How much oil does the chaincase take?
310 ml fill u till it comes out of the fill hole 👌
Sup Charlie
Don't bother you will never be to tell the difference Waste of money put all your money in Shocks