How To Cope Crown Moulding: A Demonstration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- How to hand cut a coped joint in crown moulding. The concept is explained and then a demonstration of the cut is performed. Once you understand WHY you are performing certain steps the process becomes easier.
Installing crown all by yourself? It can be done! Check out my video on this subject here:
• Install Crown Moulding...
This is the only video I found that shows how to put the crown molding against the fence and cut the 45ﾟ angle. My first attempt was with the crown molding flat, and of course it didn't work. Darkening the cut line with a pencil and finishing it off with a round file are great tips!
I have watched so many videos my head and spinning. Once I discovered how uneven my ceiling is ... I realize now that coping is my only hope. This video is EXACTLY what I needed ... slow, step by step and close up camera work. Thank you so much for doing this -- us amateurs (me) are super appreciative.
Thanks for the video and tips. Now I shall go and screw this up.
Ha ha me too!
Me three thankfully I'm doing pergo tomorrow
I'm Screwing up as we speakong
I tried my hand at crown molding recently and learned if the angles weren’t exact, filler became my best friend! 😂😂 Trying it again in another room and plan to cope the corners. Great demo. Thank you!
That's why they say "Do your best, caulk the rest" haha
remember the old saying, " a little paint of caulk, a little bit of paint, makes you the carpenter that you ain't." I use more caulk and filler than I like to admit.
Excellent tutorial on how to cope. Thank you for not being all over the place (with your words & thoughts), you stayed on topic & delivered a great how to video.
To sit properly means that when the crown is sitting in your saw the molding sits tight to the table and the fence without gaps. Make some pencil marks on the table and fence and measure them. you will need these when you go to install the crown. Some people like to put tape on their table or fence using these reference marks so you get each piece in exactly the same position( THIS IS IMPORTANT! ).
That makes a skilled joint doable. Simple explanation and demonstration thanks for posting.
I haven't tried this yet but, I hope it's as easy as you make it look! Thank you, this was by far the best demonstration of this technic that I have seen.
This is the best and very explained video I have seen on TH-cam. I've been looking for a video like this for weeks, now I will install my cronwmoldings without being afraid of ruin them. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I'm glad it was helpful. You might find this newer video useful as well. Good luck!
th-cam.com/video/rk29o3szGOI/w-d-xo.html
Finally a carpenter that knows what a coping saw is and how to use it.
This video is exactly what I needed to see. Concise explanations and great camera angles. Thank you for providing this to the public! I just got my first coping saw and am ready to practice on some spare pieces of moulding.
That's actually a great idea. You can saw a whole bunch of coping cuts in scrap pieces and get the hang of it fairly quickly. Better to destroy some scrap in learning than screw up a an expensive 16 footer!
To the point, no bs, and a bunch of great info. Awesome video! Thank you.
one of the most informative and full demonstrations of how to do this. Thanx!
Adjustments are made at installation by moving the two pieces up or down a little bit( rolling the pieces up or down in the corner). Before you install the molding on the wall make some pencil marks on the wall and ceiling as guides using your measurements from your saw. Remember crown moldings is made to fit a perfect 90* corner. The marks are guides for a visually pleasing appearance. Nail up the middle of the molding leaving the last 2-3 feet unnailed.
Well done! Best video on coping -- even better than TOH. I just finished cutting my best inside corners ever. My coping blade was dull, so I used my B&D OSCILLATING MULT-TOOL with the wide, fine tooth blade. It takes a steady hand, but it allows you to easily go back and remove more material if you need to. It helps to clamp down the molding, face up, so you can hold the heavy tool steady with two hands.
This is a superb how-to video. My simple little redecorating project involved crown molding and it was driving me really crazy. I asked my woodworking teacher about what I was doing wrong and he showed me this coping technique. He explained it well, showed me, I went home and I was still floundering. I have trouble visualizing and understanding the logic, I guess. Anyway, I watched this video to review what my teacher explained. I'll try it again tomorrow. Thank you very much.
Thank you. I have to do this for work tomorrow. I've never done it before. Stayed late trying to figure it out but I had no luck. I wasn't cutting the initial miter upside down. I'll be sure to grab a file too. Thanks again.
Nice video man. I learned this from a really good tradesman I was on a job with once, but i'm about to install some crown again and i came to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything 😆
I don't normally do trim but this upped my game big time. Thanks!
Learned what a coping saw was today. Thank you
Very nice demonstration, John… Probably watched this five times now and I can see that it takes some practice to gain confidence with the coping saw, but you explain the concept well so thank you!
Thanks for taking the time out of your day to make a great video!
Until your video and tips I was unsuccessful in my attempts at coping. All my failed crowns were requiring copious amounts of coping skills which made things difficult to cope with. But now that coping is in the past and I'm coping with the copes of the future y coping with the copes of tomorrow by coping with those copes today. Cope with that.
Sounds copacetic.
Coping with a grinder and a flap disc works good also. I need to learn to cope by hand. Thanks
Great quality video, this has helped me a great deal. Not to sure about the "upside down" being wrong though. This point for me is subjective, I prefer the "upside down" look, so does my wife. Surely that's what's important. Thanks again.
Well, of course, in your own home you should do what pleases you. However, there is no question about the correct orientation. Modern crown molding profile traces it's linage back to the ancient Greek architectural orders and there are specific rules of shape and design derived from that era. In America, the architect and carpenter Asher Benjamin is probably most responsible for bringing the elements of classical Greek design back to common use with his landmark 1827 book The American Builder's Companion and his 1830 book The Architect, Or Practical House Carpenter. Fine houses built before that period were employing these principles, but the publication of his books helped spread these ancient architectural forms into more widespread use. They offered templates of a sort for carpenters to follow. The books are still available in reprint today, and they still do a good job of showing what is proper and what is possible. They also show quite clearly how the shape of a crown moulding should be oriented to achieve classical balance and traditional style.
I just left This Old House showing me how to do this. THEY SUCK. I followed you and it went perfect. THANKS
best explanation I've seen yet. Intelligently presented!
Excellent demonstration. Thank you! In 10 minutes I’ll be working on this
I've been using my table saw for cope cuts. Great video.
Best video I've seen on youtube pertaining to coping trim! Thanks
Great video. Now I'm ready to try some practice pieces.
Just the video I've been looking for. I have vinyl-clad molding that's really hard to miter with a miter box and hand saw, and I've never coped crown molding. Thanks.
Thanks, John
for the insightful video.
I'm researching installing my own & have never before. So your coping tip really made sense.
Thanks for the demo, as for the filing is concern I would try to file in downward stock too prevent any chiping on the surface edge. Now I'm ready to tackle this for the fist time. 😆
Thanks for making that so simple to explain. Great job.
I learned from a carpenter with 45 years of experience 35 yrs ago and have been doing it that way for 35 years with zero call backs and zero problems, yet these yunguns want to fiddle with an inside corner getting the miter correct and using a half tube of caulk for 20 minutes. I always file on the downstroke to help eliminate any tear out however you did forget to say one very important comment at the end and so I will say it for you.........Now that's how you do it son.
Same here. I learned from my Grandfather, some 35 years ago; when I was 10 or 11. I am not a master carpenter; but I was raised by one.
We also used exactly this method for making window frames.
All of this has informed my artwork as a professional artist.
I learned about coping back in 1972 from a master carpenter. He had a hatful of tricks. Great trade woodworking is.
Great hobby too.
Good presentation here.
Not all us youngins! (Although most no doubt) I’m 27 and this is how I do it. Watched this as a refresher as I’m now trimming a kitchen I built over the summer
Thanks for this! Doing my first crown molding work in our bedroom tomorrow!
Check out this video, too. It has additional tips which could be helpful. Good luck!
th-cam.com/video/rk29o3szGOI/w-d-xo.html
best video yet on crown
When I come crown I use a rotozip tool with an angled sanding bit instead of a file. Just my personal preference. I always enjoy seeing how other people do things to see if I find something that might be faster or easier.
nice job with this video....i usually try to miter all my moldings...i like to cut flat since my fence is so short. I like this technique going to try tomorrow on my mudroom project. THANKS AGAIN
I would imagine your project is done by now, and you should be making a video of how you solved your problems. A month ago I would have suggested to put the crown molding in your miter saw the way it will be installed; meaning that the saw table is the ceiling and the fence is the wall( remember upside down and backwards .... it makes sense after you do it), even if you have to drill some holes in your fence to allow you to add a taller fence for the crown to sit properly.
A very nice simple educational demonstration
Great video. Huge help with my most recent crown molding project. Thanks.
Best explanation I've seen 👍
You broke it down very well. Thank U sir.
this was a really great video well explained and the principles were very sound thank you
Thank you. Best instructional video out there.
It’s clear we both can roll with it. I need to come work with you and we both learn some new tricks. 2 perfectionist. I do like your work. I’m greedy for more on any edge I can get.
Nice video. I've done some coping with my baseboard projects and they've always turned out well. My wife wants me to install crown moulding now and I was wondering if I could apply the same technique. Glad I found this. Thanks!
+Kurt Fischback Coping crown moulding is the only way a pro installs it and really the only way it should be done. Be sure and check out my recent video on how to install crown moulding alone:
th-cam.com/video/rk29o3szGOI/w-d-xo.html
Well done video! I have the confidence now to try to do this! Thanks for doing such a great job with this!
Love your work ! Hopefully by now you have discovered the use of an angle grinder to cope ! So much faster and easier ! As always great work ! Lastly I have also seen many homes with crown upside down , however I always ask the customer which way they want the profile , and sometimes they choose the detail upside down lol ! Give them what they want I guess
Yes, I know some like the angle grinder idea, For me, I get accurate and quick results just using a coping saw and a file. I also prefer to use quieter hand tools any chance I get!
Very well and detailed explained, thanks so much 👍
Very helpful and straight forward. Many thanks
Such a great tutorial.
AWESOME you are the man !!!! i was ready to burn my house down over the dam crown molding. was that a diablo blade i saw ???? and many thanks for the video
This is great,nice cope work!You make it look easy
Thanks for the helpful tips. Great video thanks
OH MY gosh!!! You made that look so stinking easy. It sooooo isn’t!!
Ha! Practice makes perfect.
I have found that his tips of darkening the edge of the line with a pencil and cutting the molding in sections helps a lot. I found it impossible to get the coping saw a blade around a 90ﾟ angle.
Great video, thank you.
Thanks for the well explained video.
Thank you! Great demonstration!
Like being in shop class, TH-cam is the future of education.
THE best video on coping crown! Thanks.
Great video and super explanation. You are a craftsman sir.
Great Demonstration.
Nice Job. Two tips: Making relief cuts first (in the middle and Ceiling end) will save you from trying to back out the coping saw and secondly filing down one way with your file away from the finished edge will prevent chipout.
Excellent explanation. Thanks
Awesome video! Great demo!
I learned. Thanks for a fine video.
U sir are a lifesaver. Thanks
Wow, good thing I watched this video. I watched it wondering why in the heck you were cutting a 45 degree angle before coping. I was going to nail the crown moulding flush against the top of the wall!
Welcome!
I hit the Thumbs Up button twice, for two thumbs up. Great video.
Using a block of wood and a hammer tap, move, or otherwise manipulate the two pieces together for their best fit.
Dave
Nice tutorial.
awesome response, thanks so much. I did exactly what you said and the coped cut is not even close to matching up. what else could be causing the cuts to not match up? I've had 5 people look at this and they can't figure it out.
Yes, I do adjust for out-of-square corners, though obviously you are limited sometimes by the amount the moulding will bend around wavy walls. For stain grade work I fix the walls first. I prefer cutting on the pull stroke with a coping saw. I've found that I'd rather "sneak up" on the pencil line with a file only because the quality of wood is so poor nowadays that it tends to chip and chatter. I'd rather file a little bit than ruin a 16 foot piece of crown.
When you say the wall is 45 degrees, do you mean the spring angle of your crown molding is 45 degrees? I'm using 38 degree spring single molding so to cope an inside corner cut. I think I need to cut at 38 degrees. Is that right?
Not sure which moment in the video you mean, but I think you have your concepts confused. Whatever the spring angle of your crown, the coping cut relates to the angle of the two WALLS. So, if two walls meet exactly at a 90 degree angle it would be a 45 degree cut--with your crown moulding situated on the saw as it would be when installed. Or, if you want to cut the crown flat on the saw you can use a chart to find the right compound saw angle. For me, I'll sometimes hold the crown upright if it is a small crown, or else put it upside down in the saw so it touches the base and the fence. Either way, the saw angle relates to the walls. This video is a little newer and might add some information for you: th-cam.com/video/rk29o3szGOI/w-d-xo.html
That's a great idea for a video-- cabinet construction details. I'll tape that next time I get a chance. Feel free to email me through my website if you have specific questions, though.
Good video for basic preprimed pine crown. Unfortunately, high-end crown like you find in kitchens there is no caulk or paint. So the joint has to be a lot tighter than your video shows.
Yes. And with high end kitchen cabinet crown you also get higher quality, tight grained, bone dry trim with which you CAN make tighter joints! Working with the FJ painted crap from the trim rack at Home Cheapo and working with high end trim ordered from a millwork supply or coming with cabinets is like night and day. When I do cabinet trim or work with stain-grade trim in a room the circumstances are very different. I control the base to which the trim is nailed, I don't have to worry about finger joints, twisted wood, or high moisture content, and there is generally more money and time to slow down and make things perfect. Also, in stain grade work I'll stain the inside cut ends so that if it ever opens up in the future because of seasonal humidity changes it won't show. In kitchen cabinets they usually provide a marker as well as colored wax for the nail holes.
Absolutely! Not diminishing your skill level or degrading your video, just thought it wise to point that out to other viewers who might not understand the difference. Aside from gluing outside corners, I'll usually pin them together with a 23 guage.
Agreed--pin nailers were a revolution. Invisible nail hole, and also great just for tacking things together until glue dries.
Great video!
One day I plan to do something that I make look easy. Until then everything I do which is plenty and I get it done usually nicely but to watch me it never looks easy except when I lay on a beach. I’m a pro at that. Ha!
Good lesson
Just curious, but in real life do you adjust your cuts for out of square corners? And I noticed you cut on the pull stroke. Turn your blade around and you could get closer to the edge, pencil line, and not need to file, less time more money.
Sir you are perfect in what you do , thanks
This was very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you.
Thanks for responding awesome video
Hello and great tutorial...I am about to install an oversized cove molding in a remodel. The ceilings are gabled on either end. I would like to use a coping method opposed to traditional crown cuts, which i have no problem with....how would i measure the corners that are gabled rather than a straight 90.....thanks....! Dan
I'm not sure I follow your question. When you say a "gabled" corner or ceiling I don't know what you mean. Could you elaborate a little more?
Thanks very helpful video!
You can also download a chart of angles so that you lay the molding flat on the saw and do a compound cut, but I would not recommend that route because it tends to be less accurate and more confusing.
Oh, that sucks! Well, possibilities for error include mis-measuring the wall angle or having the angle change dramatically in the corners from spackle build-up, misplacement of the crown on the saw or on the wall so that the angle is different from what you measured, a misaligned saw, or even moulding with differing profiles from the same rack! Try making two small pieces around 16 inches long and placing them up in the corner and you'll probably see your mistake.
Is this the same for molding with 52 degree spring angle? I'm going out of my mind trying to figure out (a) how to set up the compound mitre to make cut that will eventually be coped and (b) how to position the crown in the saw. Trying to do four 90 degree inside corners. Any advice will help. Thanks.
thank you
Fantastic
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Great vid thanxz
Awesome 👍
Hello again..a gabled roof is pretty much a triangle. So I’m not working wit a “flat”ceiling. So when I cope the corners where they ascend to a triangle, do I proceed with the same application-and miter at the appropriate angle? Thanks..
Okay, so I gather you're working with what we call in my neck of the woods a "cathedral" or "vaulted" ceiling. It's as if you removed the typical floor joists from above and left it open. Usually in that scenario the edge where the ceiling meets the walls is finished with just drywall and no trim, or a very small moulding if the ceiling is wood and the walls are drywall or plaster. I guess you're trying to use a large cove moulding around the entire wall/ceiling border. Large cove mouldings can be ornery in regular circumstances because the profile often deviates from piece to piece or even on the same board. Depending on the angle of your cathedral ceiling, you may need to cut a pretty severe angle on the moulding before you cope. Anyway, one technique is to create a pie-shaped transition piece in the corner to help transition to the sloped ceiling. But, you can use the regular method too. It's really no different than a flat ceiling if you think about it, other than you have an additional joint at the peak and you need to adjust for the more severe slope. Put another way, a flat ceiling might be a degree or two off of level in a corner, and you would adjust for that. In a vaulted ceiling it's the same thing except the angle is more severe. However, you'll almost certainly need and want to build test pieces for the corners and with cove moulding expect some trial and error. With short test pieces you can then measure the straight run by marking on the wall where the test pieces end and measuring those marks. Maybe hard to describe with words instead of pictures or video, but hopefully this helps a little.
Thanks