IS300 Gets a Standalone (HOW-TO on factory harness)

hournineracecr...
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Chapters in this video
00:00 Intro
03:47 Purpose of this video
05:51 What else to buy?
10:41 My engine's differences
16:12 IS300 wire pinout
17:37 how IS300 INJ/IGN is wired
18:44 Ignition power move
22:05 Injector power move
24:13 VVTi solenoid
26:11 Cut sensor ground to engine
29:43 Cam/Crank(-) signal rewire
31:52 Mass Air Flow replacement
33:34 Coolant Temp 1k pullup
34:34 TPS, depin pin 3
36:13 Knock sensor change
38:30 Recapping wire changes
43:44 hand-drawn relay wiring
53:18 Wiring completed
1:08:02 Haltech config and START

[@2JZ_WISCO]

thanks for the detailed videos...im for sure learning alot

[@LegitRaceCraft]

Awesome! You're welcome

[@Persocondes]

@@LegitRaceCraftsame here, i'm learning a ton. i gotta run stock ecu as well to control the automatic trans for now, with ecumaster black. Question, so all i have to do for preventing check engine light with missing stock DBW throttle is to ground that DBW connector? thanks!

[@LegitRaceCraft]

@@Persocondes If you're running an EMU black then the check engine light should be controlled by it. The check engine light shouldn't be controlled by the OEM ecu anymore. It won't matter that the DBW triggers a check engine light. My oem ecu (automatic now even though my car is a factory manual) throws CELs for the auto transmission solenoids and some other stuff, but it doesn't matter since my CEL isn't connected to the ecu anymore, the CEL is controlled by my Haltech

[@Persocondes]

@@LegitRaceCraft thank you for the knowledge!

[@black240ct]

Excited to go through this whole video and series. Question. I'm planning to run my elite 2000, ic7 dash and making a haltech flying lead harness for my 1jz swap. Not running a/c. What functions from the stock ECU/ body ecu would I need to focus on wiring or retaining. I suppose the only thing from the body would be the locking system if the immobilizer controls that. I'd love to get rid of the OEM ECU box and put the haltech under the dash

[@LegitRaceCraft]

Thanks! The locking system is controlled by the body computer, so removing the ECU shouldn't affect that, the immobilizer just inhibits fuel injectors from spraying, but I'm not sure if the doors will still unlock without the ecu. There is a transponder that communicates with the oem ECU, as far as I know it's wired entirely to the oem ECU and not the lock system directly. I still have my ECU connected for my a/c, and I'm still using the temp gauge on the dash even though my Haltech has its own temp sensor. I've tucked my oem ECU behind the radio (recent video), but I can do this since I have a slim face radio, it leaves a lot of room behind the ECU.

[@black240ct]

@@LegitRaceCraft right on i appreciate the info. Will have to start unplugging some things and see what stops working

[@MontyT321]

How did you terminate the Bosch knock sensors? Any diagrams of the wiring layout?

[@LegitRaceCraft]

Polarity shouldn't matter. Connect one wire to signal ground and the other to the haltech.

[@TheApexofthevortex]

What exactly is that bracket you moved from the front side of the intake plenum? It has a plug one black and white wire coming out. Is it just a ground? I cut it put a ring terminal on the end and connected it to me intake manifold and when I tried to crank the car it would blow the AM2 fuse. When I disconnected it the car cranks again and doesn't blow the fuse.

[@LegitRaceCraft]

The little gray box that is on the bracket is an electrical noise reducer. It just cleans up all of the electrical "noise" for the ground signal that the sensors share with the ECU.

[@Morm1175]

Do you connect the speedometer and RPM to the haltech ecu or you still use eom ecu for that?

[@LegitRaceCraft]

Speed signal is coming from the oem lexus ecu, but the RPM is coming from the haltech

[@nalojohn5664]

Hey u still have d ECU for sale?

[@LegitRaceCraft]

No, sorry. I sold it