Uni-t 139c is the winner!! -lower price -survived torcher test - good fuses/protection(on one review) -Temp -NCV -Fast cap reading (up to 99MF) -Backlight
I have one of these and its been a great meter and a good value - also good review but you seemed to completely overlook one of the most important features -- it has decent input protection with not only the ceramic fuses but 2 PTC's (green components) and 4 MOV's, (blue componenents) down by the input jacks, even the more expensive UT61E doesnt have this group of input protection devices. m
I am certain now i prefer the UNI-T UT139C MULTIMETER rather than the pocket multimeter since it will come in pretty handy for multi-purpose uses,..once again thanks for taking the time out to review this sir....
I liked the 22,000 count display on the 61E but lack of a backlight and poor input protection made me pick the 139C and im glad I did - I dont need data logging and can also forego the 22,000 count display on the 61E - the 6,000 count 139C has a backlight, good build feel and seems more than accurate enough for my needs with a nice legible display, im very pleased with the 139C overall.
Don't need data logging? I want to take measurements from a solar cell array to log measurements each hour from sunrise to sunset. Any idea how I could do this? Or do I need a different multimeter?
Thanks for your sustaining review. I've placed my UNI-T UT 139C unit order today. Its total cost's approximately corresponding to US$ 38.- inclusive of s&h.
It's funny that I'm searching for TRMS clamp meter with temperature feature when I see this. I already owned several multimeters including clamp meter but it has lack of features. After seeing this review I immediately ordered on Ebay. It has all the feature that I'm looking for. Plus the input protection looks like excellent also. There is so many good features that I observed I'm overwhelmed with it. I'm so much excited to received this item. Thanks for the review.
I prefer this meter to a Fluke 87V. For DC volts is reads within 1mV of the Fluke over the range i tested on from 0.5-32V. The 139c read consistently 1mV lower than the Fluke. Both meters settled to their reading almost instantly and update rate was the same for the Fluke and the Uni-t (about 2.5/second). Not done any other comparison tests. Also it autoranges on capacitance, which the Fluke does not. I prefer the Uni-t 139c to the 61e.
Hi, you forgot one important difference between the two series: the UT-139c doesn`t have a bar graph in the display! But anyhow it fits my needs much better than the 61 series. So - thanks for your vids, they are really helpful to make a decision!
Thanks, nice review. Just to put the 'British standard fuses for current ranges' comment to bed. I don't know what was going on there with that model supposedly supplied to the UK market for testing extension leads, but we Brits also use HRC fuses and have some of the most stringent electrical safety standards in the world... just look at our plugs! Posit this was more a case of Uni-T specs, who are/were renowned for using glass fuses in their meters.
nuntana2 I know Brits ur lucky to have such good electrical standards!. Most of the world are full of fucktards who take electricity too lightly!. Even my dad is an idiot who just strips 2 wires and shoves them in the mains outlet for a water motor. He thinks it's ingenuity that he isn't using a plug!.
Good review. Recently bought this multimeter. I like everything except short interruption in the beep-sound in circuit on-off mode. In my device is the same. It seems to me that this is due to the use of protective elements in the device (for example varistors), which create additional capacitance in the measurement circuit.
Hi. A very stupid question, alas. The K-type thermocouple is not assymetric and thus it can be connected in several ways. Normally you would connect the COM side - marked with COM - with the COM port, and the other side - marked °C- with the °C port on the device. But would it be a problem if you connect it the other way around? I've tried it and strange enough I measure another - a few degrees higher - temperature. Is that normal behaviour? I'm just asking because I'm checking my living room thermostat and when I it connect "wrong" it shows the exact temperature as on the thermostat. And when I connect it correctly, it shows a temperature that's a few degrees lower then the thermostat. Thanks for your advice.
ITTBSEurope The UT139C cost $49. The similarly priced Hioki meter, the 3244-60, doesn't have the functions or accuracy of the UT139C. It runs off a crappy button cell. So in this price range Hioki loses out to UNI-T.
Wow same model but myne has soo many differences. The main chip is not on pins soldered instead it is a blob type and cannot be changed. Also it sits on the other side of the board and not on the display side. Very weird... 🤔
Could you ever tear down and examine one of the cheap LED HALOGEN (mean flood light) 30W cold white for example? Maybe with PIR move sensor. I`d like to know what are the electrical parameters and supply quality it has.
DC or average value of a signal is measured using the Zero Order Recursive Least Squares (RLS0) approach. The higher the sample count, the better the accuracy of the RLS0 algorithm. This what counts means. RMS is also measured using the RLS0 block. First the signal is squared, then goes into RLS0, then it gets square-rooted ... A high-end Fluke DMM uses over 4 million count samples! This DMM is good for hobbyists not professionals ...
Do you also have problem with LCD readability when you looking from above? For me numbers are barely visible, there is low contrast. Every UT139C has that issue?
Just purchased ut139c installed batteries then noticed when picking up meter support bracket dropped down and flopped about (just like in your video after you reassembled it)tried google for solution emailed uni-t no reply. Problem solved by more tension on the screw which secures battery pack hope this might help other users.By the way liked the video
I have a broken 139e. Because I forgot to measure the ac volts 220V, the selector switch is still in the ohm position. Only the Ampere meter is still functional. Can it be fixed?
Very good review but the current clamp function needs explanation. There is no information regarding this even the UNI T itself do not have information about the accessory clamp. This is a very handy feature but if it is not usable then this meter is crap. Do you have any info regarding this. Thank you
Excellent Review!!!. You just earned a subscriber. At the end which one of those multimeter do you think is best? I'm starting in the electronics and I was looking both of this meters models on Amazon and eBay to be honest. So i would like if you can tell me or recommend which one I should buy. Thanks in advance Regards
Nelson Agosto need more accuracy and counts? uni-t ut61e is your best option! wanna more features ? go for the ut139c! i'm a hobbyist and i have the 139c because i usually work with Ac voltages and i need more input protection...
Scrappy Coco So if I need more safety and reliability should I go with 139c or 61e?. For use with opamps, microcontrollers, Arduino, basic robotics, automotive, power electronics & telecom use as an EC engineering student will the 139c have enough accuracy for any project I could probably take up?. In other words what specific applications would the 61e be needed over the 139c?. Thanks in advance.
Hi i have just purchased a UNI-T UT139C from ebay and when i set the Mv range on dc it is all over the place it counts up constantly and does not stay at zero before you take a reading. This does not happen on my Fluke meter and i want to no if this is normal. Please reply cheers Regards Simon
Why does voltage rating of fuse matter? Fuses are current devices. A 10A fuse will still blow whether the current is over 10A (say 15A) at 5V, 250V or 600V. As long as its a ceramic HRC fuse, not glass, voltage rating doesn't make any difference. In the UK BS1363 fuses are cheap, come in 3, 5, 10 and 13 amp types and are sold pretty much everywhere. I can buy a pack of 10 fuses for about £1.50 or less. I actually replaced the 10A fuse in my 61e for a 5A.
Anyone knows if a multimeter only being ETL tested and listed is much worse off than one being UL tested and listed (safety-wise)? Asking because UT139C is ETL tested and listed.
In mine just discovered that if you put it in mV the display dances from 0 to 150mV with nothing connected. If I touch probes together they show 0mV. Is that normal?
Yes, I know this comment is old but maybe I can help. What you are measuring is actually real! It's the static charge the probes take up from the air, when you connect the probes you short them out and measure 0V across of course.
I have bought this multimeter, just after unpacking i 've tried to measure a battery's voltage. It does not shows any voltage. I also tried the city voltage plug in AC mode. all other measuring, works properly such as ohm, capacitor, temreture,... Do i have to change somthing?
Hi. Can you make a video on how to calibrate the 139c? I have a unit that produces inaccurate readings. Hope you see this comment and make a video tutorial. Thanks...
AFAIK this multimeter is calibrated in a factory. Correction factors are stored in internal memory of the device. There is no (official) way to modify them. If your device reads values which are out of limits specified in the manual you should change your device by warranty.
hi there how do you know how the clamp meter option works.I cannot find anything on the Internet about this feature. This additional features is the only reason why I would not purchase the 61e and buy this instead. would like to know how it works.
+electronupdate You're right! They need a product manager. Most of the meters in the series (for say UT61x), most of them are crap (at least, the protection), while the UT61D is adequate. No offense here, but most of their products are so confusing, I mean, it's just (partially) a game of luck (if you get the right letter, then good news!). Dave at EEVblog has already explained about "why UNI-T Meters Suck".
Help me please. Device UNI-T139C. It does not work auto-range, only manual mode. Caption "auto-range" is shows on display, but shows 0L. Now is not working auto-range in all modes, but measures the values correctly. How can I fix auto range of measurements? Video: th-cam.com/video/e4Z0T4JcJ5M/w-d-xo.html Thanks all!
![[Sub Thai] APT. - ROSÉ & Bruno Mars](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bYjhzP8x_uc/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey, Franky here! Thanks for ordering it from me and more importantly, reviewing it! Thanks for the video!
Uni-t 139c is the winner!!
-lower price
-survived torcher test - good fuses/protection(on one review)
-Temp
-NCV
-Fast cap reading (up to 99MF)
-Backlight
I have one of these and its been a great meter and a good value - also good review but you seemed to completely overlook one of the most important features -- it has decent input protection with not only the ceramic fuses but 2 PTC's (green components) and 4 MOV's, (blue componenents) down by the input jacks, even the more expensive UT61E doesnt have this group of input protection devices. m
I am certain now i prefer the UNI-T UT139C MULTIMETER rather than the pocket multimeter since it will come in pretty handy for multi-purpose uses,..once again thanks for taking the time out to review this sir....
I liked the 22,000 count display on the 61E but lack of a backlight and poor input protection made me pick the 139C and im glad I did - I dont need data logging and can also forego the 22,000 count display on the 61E - the 6,000 count 139C has a backlight, good build feel and seems more than accurate enough for my needs with a nice legible display, im very pleased with the 139C overall.
Don't need data logging? I want to take measurements from a solar cell array to log measurements each hour from sunrise to sunset. Any idea how I could do this? Or do I need a different multimeter?
Thanks for your sustaining review. I've placed my UNI-T UT 139C unit order today. Its total cost's approximately corresponding to US$ 38.- inclusive of s&h.
It's funny that I'm searching for TRMS clamp meter with temperature feature when I see this. I already owned several multimeters including clamp meter but it has lack of features. After seeing this review I immediately ordered on Ebay. It has all the feature that I'm looking for. Plus the input protection looks like excellent also. There is so many good features that I observed I'm overwhelmed with it. I'm so much excited to received this item. Thanks for the review.
1A reading is 0.000A because you need the A socket, not the mA/uA socket.
You didn't put lead on amps range on the left so it dind't work.
The thing I also always forget. For the high amp range the lead has to go in another socket. ;)
Good catch! Thanks for noticing my error
I prefer this meter to a Fluke 87V. For DC volts is reads within 1mV of the Fluke over the range i tested on from 0.5-32V. The 139c read consistently 1mV lower than the Fluke. Both meters settled to their reading almost instantly and update rate was the same for the Fluke and the Uni-t (about 2.5/second). Not done any other comparison tests. Also it autoranges on capacitance, which the Fluke does not. I prefer the Uni-t 139c to the 61e.
Hi,
you forgot one important difference between the two series: the UT-139c doesn`t have a bar graph in the display! But anyhow it fits my needs much better than the 61 series. So - thanks for your vids, they are really helpful to make a decision!
Thanks, nice review. Just to put the 'British standard fuses for current ranges' comment to bed. I don't know what was going on there with that model supposedly supplied to the UK market for testing extension leads, but we Brits also use HRC fuses and have some of the most stringent electrical safety standards in the world... just look at our plugs! Posit this was more a case of Uni-T specs, who are/were renowned for using glass fuses in their meters.
nuntana2 I know Brits ur lucky to have such good electrical standards!. Most of the world are full of fucktards who take electricity too lightly!. Even my dad is an idiot who just strips 2 wires and shoves them in the mains outlet for a water motor. He thinks it's ingenuity that he isn't using a plug!.
Good review. Recently bought this multimeter. I like everything except short interruption in the beep-sound in circuit on-off mode. In my device is the same. It seems to me that this is due to the use of protective elements in the device (for example varistors), which create additional capacitance in the measurement circuit.
Hi. A very stupid question, alas. The K-type thermocouple is not assymetric and thus it can be connected in several ways. Normally you would connect the COM side - marked with COM - with the COM port, and the other side - marked °C- with the °C port on the device. But would it be a problem if you connect it the other way around? I've tried it and strange enough I measure another - a few degrees higher - temperature. Is that normal behaviour? I'm just asking because I'm checking my living room thermostat and when I it connect "wrong" it shows the exact temperature as on the thermostat. And when I connect it correctly, it shows a temperature that's a few degrees lower then the thermostat. Thanks for your advice.
How about capacitance measure ? :) UT 139 has nice range.
ITTBSEurope
The UT139C cost $49. The similarly priced Hioki meter, the 3244-60, doesn't have the functions or accuracy of the UT139C. It runs off a crappy button cell.
So in this price range Hioki loses out to UNI-T.
Wow same model but myne has soo many differences. The main chip is not on pins soldered instead it is a blob type and cannot be changed. Also it sits on the other side of the board and not on the display side. Very weird... 🤔
Yea mine is like that too
Could you ever tear down and examine one of the cheap LED HALOGEN (mean flood light) 30W cold white for example? Maybe with PIR move sensor. I`d like to know what are the electrical parameters and supply quality it has.
DC or average value of a signal is measured using the Zero Order Recursive Least Squares (RLS0) approach. The higher the sample count, the better the accuracy of the RLS0 algorithm. This what counts means. RMS is also measured using the RLS0 block. First the signal is squared, then goes into RLS0, then it gets square-rooted ... A high-end Fluke DMM uses over 4 million count samples! This DMM is good for hobbyists not professionals ...
Do you also have problem with LCD readability when you looking from above? For me numbers are barely visible, there is low contrast. Every UT139C has that issue?
Yes they all have the same problem, theres a way to fix but you need to dump and reflash the eeprom to fix it
@@pedrofernandes7968 sounds like something the manufacturer could do with ease...
What is the brand of that voltage standard? I can't hear it clearly.
Just purchased ut139c installed batteries then noticed when picking up meter support bracket dropped down and flopped about (just like in your video after you reassembled it)tried google for solution emailed uni-t no reply. Problem solved by more tension on the screw which secures battery pack hope this might help other users.By the way liked the video
How does this one stand next ut161d if one should choose tp buy now?
I have a broken 139e. Because I forgot to measure the ac volts 220V, the selector switch is still in the ohm position. Only the Ampere meter is still functional. Can it be fixed?
usually you should just be able to replace the protection fuse, if that doesn't fix it it's probably dead.
Very good review but the current clamp function needs explanation. There is no information regarding this even the UNI T itself do not have information about the accessory clamp. This is a very handy feature but if it is not usable then this meter is crap. Do you have any info regarding this. Thank you
hi there did you ever get to the bottom of how the clamp meter function works with this Dmm. Thanks.
Is it possible to turn off the beep when measuring range is changed?
Would this work to measure low AC mV to bias an audio tape deck?
Excellent Review!!!. You just earned a subscriber. At the end which one of those multimeter do you think is best?
I'm starting in the electronics and I was looking both of this meters models on Amazon and eBay to be honest.
So i would like if you can tell me or recommend which one I should buy.
Thanks in advance
Regards
Nelson Agosto need more accuracy and counts? uni-t ut61e is your best option! wanna more features ? go for the ut139c! i'm a hobbyist and i have the 139c because i usually work with Ac voltages and i need more input protection...
Scrappy Coco So if I need more safety and reliability should I go with 139c or 61e?. For use with opamps, microcontrollers, Arduino, basic robotics, automotive, power electronics & telecom use as an EC engineering student will the 139c have enough accuracy for any project I could probably take up?. In other words what specific applications would the 61e be needed over the 139c?. Thanks in advance.
Hi i have just purchased a UNI-T UT139C from ebay and when i set the Mv range on dc it is all over the place it counts up constantly and does not stay at zero before you take a reading. This does not happen on my Fluke meter and i want to no if this is normal.
Please reply cheers
Regards Simon
Volts or amps?
Micro amps? you will need to rel it out.
simon strand Sounds to me like you're stupid
@@Crazy--Clown Why can't you just answer the question. It sounds to me like your the one who's stupid. You twat
Why does voltage rating of fuse matter? Fuses are current devices. A 10A fuse will still blow whether the current is over 10A (say 15A) at 5V, 250V or 600V. As long as its a ceramic HRC fuse, not glass, voltage rating doesn't make any difference. In the UK BS1363 fuses are cheap, come in 3, 5, 10 and 13 amp types and are sold pretty much everywhere. I can buy a pack of 10 fuses for about £1.50 or less. I actually replaced the 10A fuse in my 61e for a 5A.
For higher currents I use my clamp meter.
Also BS1363 fuses are ceramic and sand filled.
my temperature feature seems to be a bit off ,, does it need calibration or new test lead?
Anyone knows if a multimeter only being ETL tested and listed is much worse off than one being UL tested and listed (safety-wise)? Asking because UT139C is ETL tested and listed.
In mine just discovered that if you put it in mV the display dances from 0 to 150mV with nothing connected. If I touch probes together they show 0mV. Is that normal?
Yes, I know this comment is old but maybe I can help.
What you are measuring is actually real! It's the static charge the probes take up from the air, when you connect the probes you short them out and measure 0V across of course.
@@weker01 thanks a lot!
I have bought this multimeter, just after unpacking i 've tried to measure a battery's voltage.
It does not shows any voltage.
I also tried the city voltage plug in AC mode.
all other measuring, works properly such as ohm, capacitor, temreture,...
Do i have to change somthing?
meter sounds broken. perhaps return it and ask for a refund or new meter?
Hi. Can you make a video on how to calibrate the 139c? I have a unit that produces inaccurate readings. Hope you see this comment and make a video tutorial. Thanks...
AFAIK this multimeter is calibrated in a factory. Correction factors are stored in internal memory of the device. There is no (official) way to modify them.
If your device reads values which are out of limits specified in the manual you should change your device by warranty.
hi there how do you know how the clamp meter option works.I cannot find anything on the Internet about this feature. This additional features is the only reason why I would not purchase the 61e and buy this instead. would like to know how it works.
+shnider156 never saw the clamp meter for sale.. perhaps they never offered it?
+electronupdate
You're right!
They need a product manager. Most of the meters in the series (for say UT61x), most of them are crap (at least, the protection), while the UT61D is adequate.
No offense here, but most of their products are so confusing, I mean, it's just (partially) a game of luck (if you get the right letter, then good news!).
Dave at EEVblog has already explained about "why UNI-T Meters Suck".
Thanks for the review
ola você me recomendaria comprar o UT139c??
Hey I’ve got the updated 139s
how is the battery is there good run time ?
The cheaper uni-t meters have better soldering than the expensive ones
...for some reason
I will get one. but how do you think which ones is better between Uni-t ut139c and Hioki-DT4212 ??
Thank you.
sorry, I have never seen a Hioki meter so i can offer no opinon
+electronupdate I decide to buy Unit-ut139c. It good ones. Tanks for your review.
139C better design from 61E
I have extech 505 and is sheat no worth for money
Help me please. Device UNI-T139C. It does not work auto-range, only manual mode. Caption "auto-range" is shows on display, but shows 0L. Now is not working auto-range in all modes, but measures the values correctly. How can I fix auto range of measurements?
Video: th-cam.com/video/e4Z0T4JcJ5M/w-d-xo.html
Thanks all!
Thank you, cpu from UNI-T could used in asian
este puede usarse n chear siteme auto motriz
please slow down a little bit it is hard to understand you, you start to mumble I cant understand you