Great video. You probably saved me from wasting my whole afternoon or more on this. I had tried the puller but didn't put the crankshaft bolt back in and I couldn't get the balancer off. The crankshaft bolt did the trick. I did make a mistake that took me a few minutes to figure out. I got the balancer about 3/4ths of the way off and then it would not budge. I had a big breaker bar and was locking that down so I could put full force on my 1/2" ratchet with an 18" handle. Nothing. Then the light came on. I had screwed the crankshaft bolt in too far so it didn't have enough slack to let the pulley come all the way off, so the pulley was stuck against the crankshaft bolt and the puller. I loosened the puller and then unscrewed the crankshaft bolt a few turns and it came off like magic. Thanks!
SAVED MY BACON! (Works on GM 3.8L 3800) Had bought a GM Harmonic Balancer Puller kit. Carefully following instructions, I still nearly pulled the threads from the balancer before calling it quits. Followed your advice here, and using a minimal amount of torque, the balancer seemed to just pop off the stud. I did have to readjust the main bolt one time as the balancer moved down the shaft, but no big deal. ...Thanks for the great demo!
must start by saying THANK U ! used your method & off it came, wha lah like magic. i had put it on wrong 2 bigin with wouldnt come off the regular way put the bolt in hooked up the tool 5 mins later we were there. thank u so much!
This videos purpose was to help those who are stuck on the 350 harmonic balancer removal alone, but if you like to see the full repair from start to finish please check out the link below for the complete repair from start to finish. Thanks for watching! th-cam.com/video/_UdtG4Yfpz8/w-d-xo.html /K&K
Well you have to admit, there is more to it than just plugging in a puller and wham its off, if I was to get technical and take it one step further, I could set up the puller with a quarter turn left on it before the balancer drops off, and claim to do it in one second, is what i'm getting at.
thanks works like a charm. My engine is in a stand so I stopped the engine from rotating via inserting a screwdriver in the back flange and motor stand bracket.
With the right tools its a 5 minute job. Yes there some even with the right tools you will fight with. FWD vehicle are a different story those can be a challenge to get off. /K&K
Working on a big block I replaced my Harmonic balancer with a Summit Racing® Bracket Racer SFI, and when installing it when it seemed to be at the end, and then the tool backed it self out. Everything I have looked at, this does not happen. They Show it getting to the point were you can not turn it any further and you know your done. Any ideas, thank you for any help.
Are you keeping the balancer still during installation? The only time I see techs have this issue is when the balancer spins during installation and the tool backs out. Other issue maybe the tool your using; as its important the installation bolt doesn't move as the press bolt / bearing press the harmonic balancer back on. The tool itself shouldn't back out during installation as its threaded to the crankshaft so something is moving during installation that need to stay still. I hope this information helps you get your balancer back on. /K&K
You need to stop the engine from spinning. Here are some tips you can try 1. Take the inspection cover off the transmission bell housing and bind the flywheel up with pry bar. 2. You can use a pry bar in between the bolts and the puller to bind balancer. This link below is for a Ford balancer but it does shows how to bind up and complete the job using any standard puller. Prybar Bind Method th-cam.com/video/_8yjWElx3c0/w-d-xo.html /K&K
If you use a bolt that a little smaller in diameter then then threads itself its not an issue. The pressure goes against that harden part of the crankshaft. Most thread damage happens when people install the balancer with the harmonic bolt instead of using an installer tool. /K&K
Idk how i got here, curious I guess lol. I suppose a gear puller would work too. I've used my gear puller for all kinds of stuff. Slide hammer too, idk where I would be without them.
Yea mine doesn't do that at all, the bolts snapped off inside the pulley, the actual balancer has broken and when you put jaws on it the crank turns. Idk what else to do...
i tried that method on a small block 350 but the harmonic balancer would not budge even to the point it has started to bend the remover the exact one you are using, does anyone have any other ideas. Joe
Something was wrong with your puller setup. Use a longer bolt or socket in the center of the crank. Its a push pull setup but can get bound up if your center push point is to short or the bolt with a washer was to wide to allow the balancer to pull off. /K&K
The repair manual for my 1992 Mercury Topaz (2.3L in-line 4 hsc) calls for removing the engine before replacing the harmonic balancer... is there another way??
I had to do some research on this question. Yes there is a way to remove the balancer in the vehicle, but there is small bit of work to do so. Please watch the video in the link below to see how the process works. th-cam.com/video/F1keNyoQdlI/w-d-xo.html /K&K
I agree lol, this trick only works if : (1) your current harmonic balancer has a removeable pulley and (2) your current harmonic balancer has threaded holes to accept this type of puller - many balacers have neither
Some consider my repairs as redneck, well I lived in the hood growing up so I call it ghetto. I guess ghetto / redneck could be use interchangeability. /K&K
Car died looked and belt pulley wheel is off the large one at bottom. What do I need to fix it?? Whole new balancer or just the bolt that holds it on?or what idk???? Please help it's a tuson
Yikes I have read something about the balancers in some makes just splitting apart for no reason. I have only seen two balancer pulleys ever do that in 20 years of repair work . Its usually caused by the balancers being removed with the wrong tools; ( 3 JAW puller to remove the balancer do a timing belt job). If your balancer and pulley went south you must replace the entire assemble period, there's just no fix for that one. On some of those models you will need special tools to remove and install the new balancer pulley assemble. /K&K
After looking at a balancer carefully you should be able to use the 3 long bolts to remove it like in this video. Be careful not to drive the 3 long bolts into the timing cover! There's enough thread length through the balancer to pull even if it was put on backwards for any reason. Also use a smaller bolt in the crank bolt hole center to push against so you don't bind up the balancer up during the removal process. You may have to use a pry bar to keep the harmonic balancer tool from moving during the pulling process. Take your time and it should come off like a normal one does. /K&K
When I tighten down on the tool, the engine wants to turn over and I lose my place on TDC... I cannot stop this from happening and I'm scared to use an impact on it. What should I do??
You can take the inspection cover off at the transmission and bind the flywheel if you have an automatic. You can use a pry-bar through the bolts to keep the balancer still during removal. In the link below shows our pry-bar method. Its a ford balancer removal video but the same principals apply. You must keep that balancer still for removal. th-cam.com/video/_8yjWElx3c0/w-d-xo.html One of those two methods listed above should help you out. /K&K
@@KNKRNR Just to let u know, the bolt method did NOT work on my 350 chevy, in my 1976 Camaro. I had to remove the bolt, which was the first step, in order for the tool to correctly be placed against the crank in order for the balancer to come off. Other wise i would have stripped the bolts eventually if I torqued it enough...
I used a small piece of wood against the back of the balancer and a large crowbar against the block. Not too much pressure. Let the wood friction do the work.
The balancer is keyed so even if it rotates the engine during removal or installation it will not change anything. Be sure to line up the timing chain to factory spec. If you have the disturber out and rotate the balancer (Engine) you could run into an issue with getting #1 cylinder back in time with the compression stroke. As long you don't remove the Distributor during this process all will be fine except for setting final timing adjustments. /K&K
There is no coolant passed through the timing cover, if you do have coolant leaking there is only four areas it can come from. 1. Water Pump / Water-pump to block Gaskets (Most Likely) 2. Thermostat / Upper hose (Common) 3. Intake manifold gasket(s) (rare) 4. Head gaskets (rare) I would not open the timing cover up for a coolant leak, there just no need to go that deep for a coolant leak. I recommend that you should clean the area around the leak point and watch for fresh coolant to drip down to narrow down the possible cause. Sounds like you have a water pump or water-pump to block gasket(s) issue in all likelihood. When the water pump wears out they will drip coolant from a weep hole. This is done by design to the let owner know the seals in the water-pump have worn down beyond its clearances. The other issue I see common on older 350's the gaskets behind the water pump like to deteriorate. In the link below shows both intake manifold gasket installation and water pump installation. th-cam.com/video/kX3B5O-Q4Oo/w-d-xo.html /K&K
It’s 02 ford ranger. Based on research it was recommend that I take the timing cover bcus there’s a gasket behind there that is bad. Reasoning I’m taking the cover off
Oh...sorry about that, you came through on a Chevy 350 video. On the 02 ranger the timing cover does flow coolant through the cover. As long as you don't undo the timing chain it does no matter if the balancer moves. The computer sets the timing through the balancer which is keyed. I do have a video on a 1996 4.0L OHV timing cover gasket series which is very similar. th-cam.com/video/5f0Wy84FjpY/w-d-xo.html /K&K
@@paulsosa1872 Your going need this type of puller for that application. www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harmonic-Damper-Puller/dp/B000P6UT2I This tool pulls the balancer from the inside the hub. Unfortunately you will need a specialty tool for this job. This link above should get you going. /K&K
@@KNKRNR I ended up getting a puller from Advance Auto and it was MUCH more heavy duty and was able to get the puller flush to the balancer and added a 4th bolt and it came right out!
Good Video on the puller process.. Easy PEEZY! Now do, Let's say, a 1999 Buick Century 3.0L V6. Bet You're Nowhere close to 30 minutes unless you cheat and don't show all Robinhood's back yard to get to the Harmonic Balancer.
Yeah well this would work if there were actual threads on the holes of my harmonic balancer even the new one have the 2 holes that look like screws should go there but once again its completely unthreaded so now im just watching video after video of dudes saying easy peasy any issues im on day 2 trying to get this thing off rented 2 different pullers one like you used witch doesn't work because no threads in the holes and then the claw puller isn't working either
You need this puller below. I hope this helps. Tools make all the difference! www.amazon.com/Professional-Automotive-Balancers-Compatible-Mitsubishi/dp/B08FD1FQSC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuaiXBhCCARIsAKZLt3k4qVumNvItyZ1hOVTMpKK0hIqndy-0uF86LV8fxwmy9cavbBTT63UaAl8DEALw_wcB&hvadid=177542731164&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033784&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14757711534962316704&hvtargid=kwd-99123385446&hydadcr=5741_9590434&keywords=ls+harmonic+balancer+puller&qid=1659552546&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOTlCMkRKSFFLUjFTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA1Mjc1MUZYNVpOS1hKUkNGVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTAxMjg5MURYT1BWR0JNSFI0MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= /K&K
Nice, but you didn't include the time for moving everything out of the way BEFORE the starting point. Some cars you have to pull the whole radiator first.
....and, what about the old GM style 80's harmonic balancers that didn't have holes and were covered by a rubber ring? Hmmmmm?? "Any harmonic balancer" - I think not!
Yup its about an hour to get to this point. Here is the link below to the full video tear down video series. th-cam.com/video/_UdtG4Yfpz8/w-d-xo.html /K&K
@@KNKRNR Appears engines like the gm 3.0/3.6 have the same basic balancer, just doesn't have threaded holes in the balancer therefore requiring a different "Harmonic balancer puller"
Just to let u know, the bolt method did NOT work on my 350 chevy, in my 1976 Camaro. I had to remove the bolt, which was the first step, in order for the tool to correctly be placed against the crank in order for the balancer to come off. Other wise i would have stripped the bolts eventually if I torqued it enough...
Stop lieing to your viewers if it's seized you will break something like that and not all balancers are the same some don't even have thread holes so this is not for all ballancers
I don't lie to my viewers! Balancers don't seize, if they are not coming off there something your not doing right. This video shows the process of basic balancer removal in 5 minutes or less. Yes there are some application this video will not cover because new modular engine don't use threaded balancer anymore but most older engines do which are the one i work on and show on this channel. /K&K
Any video that someone takes the time to make for the purpose of helping others out is okay with me. Best wishes!
Great video. You probably saved me from wasting my whole afternoon or more on this. I had tried the puller but didn't put the crankshaft bolt back in and I couldn't get the balancer off. The crankshaft bolt did the trick. I did make a mistake that took me a few minutes to figure out. I got the balancer about 3/4ths of the way off and then it would not budge. I had a big breaker bar and was locking that down so I could put full force on my 1/2" ratchet with an 18" handle. Nothing. Then the light came on. I had screwed the crankshaft bolt in too far so it didn't have enough slack to let the pulley come all the way off, so the pulley was stuck against the crankshaft bolt and the puller. I loosened the puller and then unscrewed the crankshaft bolt a few turns and it came off like magic. Thanks!
SAVED MY BACON!
(Works on GM 3.8L 3800)
Had bought a GM Harmonic Balancer Puller kit. Carefully following instructions, I still nearly pulled the threads from the balancer before calling it quits. Followed your advice here, and using a minimal amount of torque, the balancer seemed to just pop off the stud. I did have to readjust the main bolt one time as the balancer moved down the shaft, but no big deal.
...Thanks for the great demo!
must start by saying THANK U ! used your method & off it came, wha lah like magic. i had put it on wrong 2 bigin with wouldnt come off the regular way put the bolt in hooked up the tool 5 mins later we were there. thank u so much!
So fast I didn't even see you take off your belt, fan shroud and fan...…….amazing !!
This videos purpose was to help those who are stuck on the 350 harmonic balancer removal alone, but if you like to see the full repair from start to finish please check out the link below for the complete repair from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
th-cam.com/video/_UdtG4Yfpz8/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
Well you have to admit, there is more to it than just plugging in a puller and wham its off, if I was to get technical and take it one step further, I could set up the puller with a quarter turn left on it before the balancer drops off, and claim to do it in one second, is what i'm getting at.
What an asshole
James Prom
No mate, just a dude making a valid point. An asshole would be someone who doesn’t appreciate that.
@@RCsFinest yeah it doesn't take that long to remove the rest he's just being a ass
I like when you say you could be ghetto for everything else that is very funny LOL great video
That was great, simple and very well demonstrated. Thankyou!
Glad it was helpful!
/K&K
thanks works like a charm. My engine is in a stand so I stopped the engine from rotating via inserting a screwdriver in the back flange and motor stand bracket.
"If every thing goes right" key words THIS WAS NOT STUCK! Cream puff one. Don't even think they are all this easy!
With the right tools its a 5 minute job. Yes there some even with the right tools you will fight with. FWD vehicle are a different story those can be a challenge to get off.
/K&K
Remove the bolt, check.
put in the bolt again before putting the tool...
so that is where I screwed up. -_-
Working on a big block I replaced my Harmonic balancer with a Summit Racing® Bracket Racer SFI, and when installing it when it seemed to be at the end, and then the tool backed it self out. Everything I have looked at, this does not happen. They Show it getting to the point were you can not turn it any further and you know your done. Any ideas, thank you for any help.
Are you keeping the balancer still during installation? The only time I see techs have this issue is when the balancer spins during installation and the tool backs out. Other issue maybe the tool your using; as its important the installation bolt doesn't move as the press bolt / bearing press the harmonic balancer back on. The tool itself shouldn't back out during installation as its threaded to the crankshaft so something is moving during installation that need to stay still. I hope this information helps you get your balancer back on.
/K&K
Thanks for posting this video
What size threaded bolts that screws in the balancer?
On an old chevy block it 3/8 x 24 fine thread. You need 3 and a puller.
my harmonic balancer on my chevy just spins when i tire taken it off, to keep it from spining so i can take it off?
You need to stop the engine from spinning. Here are some tips you can try
1. Take the inspection cover off the transmission bell housing and bind the flywheel up with pry bar.
2. You can use a pry bar in between the bolts and the puller to bind balancer. This link below is for a Ford balancer but it does shows how to bind up and complete the job using any standard puller.
Prybar Bind Method
th-cam.com/video/_8yjWElx3c0/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
@@KNKRNR thanks, I'm going try this, i hope I can get that thing off
@@kitt28 did you get it off
That was so simple thank you,but the crankshaft bolt wouldn't that strip the threads on crankshaft as your pressing against it?
If you use a bolt that a little smaller in diameter then then threads itself its not an issue. The pressure goes against that harden part of the crankshaft. Most thread damage happens when people install the balancer with the harmonic bolt instead of using an installer tool.
/K&K
Idk how i got here, curious I guess lol. I suppose a gear puller would work too. I've used my gear puller for all kinds of stuff. Slide hammer too, idk where I would be without them.
Gear puller might work too. Just depends on how well it can hold on to the hub during removal.
/K&K
Yea mine doesn't do that at all, the bolts snapped off inside the pulley, the actual balancer has broken and when you put jaws on it the crank turns. Idk what else to do...
What if the crank bolt just spins to tighten back up when you spin the tool?
Mine too jus spinning
Quick, easy, thank you.
i tried that method on a small block 350 but the harmonic balancer would not budge even to the point it has started to bend the remover the exact one you are using, does anyone have any other ideas. Joe
Something was wrong with your puller setup. Use a longer bolt or socket in the center of the crank. Its a push pull setup but can get bound up if your center push point is to short or the bolt with a washer was to wide to allow the balancer to pull off.
/K&K
Yes; it really worked; thanks !!!
The repair manual for my 1992 Mercury Topaz (2.3L in-line 4 hsc) calls for removing the engine before replacing the harmonic balancer... is there another way??
I had to do some research on this question. Yes there is a way to remove the balancer in the vehicle, but there is small bit of work to do so. Please watch the video in the link below to see how the process works.
th-cam.com/video/F1keNyoQdlI/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
@@KNKRNR thank you! This will save me a lot of time and effort!
So, the magic trick is to use obvious tool for the job? Wow.
Hey Dicktree. (:p. The video helped me. This video showed me to put the 5/8 bolt back in so you don't mess the threads. Oh happy day !
@@nettespankins260 agreed... great video
I agree lol, this trick only works if : (1) your current harmonic balancer has a removeable pulley and (2) your current harmonic balancer has threaded holes to accept this type of puller - many balacers have neither
How exactly does one repair an engine “getto”?
Some consider my repairs as redneck, well I lived in the hood growing up so I call it ghetto. I guess ghetto / redneck could be use interchangeability.
/K&K
savage! great video
Car died looked and belt pulley wheel is off the large one at bottom. What do I need to fix it?? Whole new balancer or just the bolt that holds it on?or what idk???? Please help it's a tuson
Yikes I have read something about the balancers in some makes just splitting apart for no reason. I have only seen two balancer pulleys ever do that in 20 years of repair work . Its usually caused by the balancers being removed with the wrong tools; ( 3 JAW puller to remove the balancer do a timing belt job). If your balancer and pulley went south you must replace the entire assemble period, there's just no fix for that one. On some of those models you will need special tools to remove and install the new balancer pulley assemble.
/K&K
hi ive put my crank on wrong i think now it wont come off again, will your method work 4 me or do i hav to do something different
After looking at a balancer carefully you should be able to use the 3 long bolts to remove it like in this video. Be careful not to drive the 3 long bolts into the timing cover! There's enough thread length through the balancer to pull even if it was put on backwards for any reason. Also use a smaller bolt in the crank bolt hole center to push against so you don't bind up the balancer up during the removal process. You may have to use a pry bar to keep the harmonic balancer tool from moving during the pulling process. Take your time and it should come off like a normal one does.
/K&K
Awesome thanks
Glad it was helpful!
/K&K
When I tighten down on the tool, the engine wants to turn over and I lose my place on TDC... I cannot stop this from happening and I'm scared to use an impact on it. What should I do??
You can take the inspection cover off at the transmission and bind the flywheel if you have an automatic. You can use a pry-bar through the bolts to keep the balancer still during removal.
In the link below shows our pry-bar method. Its a ford balancer removal video but the same principals apply. You must keep that balancer still for removal.
th-cam.com/video/_8yjWElx3c0/w-d-xo.html
One of those two methods listed above should help you out.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR Just to let u know, the bolt method did NOT work on my 350 chevy, in my 1976 Camaro. I had to remove the bolt, which was the first step, in order for the tool to correctly be placed against the crank in order for the balancer to come off. Other wise i would have stripped the bolts eventually if I torqued it enough...
I used a small piece of wood against the back of the balancer and a large crowbar against the block. Not too much pressure. Let the wood friction do the work.
mine just has a cone like a birthday hat what do I need?
You figure it out ?
I wish.not so easy on a lt1 1993 vette.😪
The LT1 is definitely a different animal to work on altogether. Fun to drive when all is good!
/K&K
what happen if you rotate the balancer.... is that bad
The balancer is keyed so even if it rotates the engine during removal or installation it will not change anything. Be sure to line up the timing chain to factory spec. If you have the disturber out and rotate the balancer (Engine) you could run into an issue with getting #1 cylinder back in time with the compression stroke. As long you don't remove the Distributor during this process all will be fine except for setting final timing adjustments.
/K&K
I’m just doing the time cover gasket. It’s leaking coolant and it’s my first time doing. So I don’t think I have touch the distributor
There is no coolant passed through the timing cover, if you do have coolant leaking there is only four areas it can come from.
1. Water Pump / Water-pump to block Gaskets (Most Likely)
2. Thermostat / Upper hose (Common)
3. Intake manifold gasket(s) (rare)
4. Head gaskets (rare)
I would not open the timing cover up for a coolant leak, there just no need to go that deep for a coolant leak. I recommend that you should clean the area around the leak point and watch for fresh coolant to drip down to narrow down the possible cause. Sounds like you have a water pump or water-pump to block gasket(s) issue in all likelihood. When the water pump wears out they will drip coolant from a weep hole. This is done by design to the let owner know the seals in the water-pump have worn down beyond its clearances. The other issue I see common on older 350's the gaskets behind the water pump like to deteriorate. In the link below shows both intake manifold gasket installation and water pump installation.
th-cam.com/video/kX3B5O-Q4Oo/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
It’s 02 ford ranger. Based on research it was recommend that I take the timing cover bcus there’s a gasket behind there that is bad. Reasoning I’m taking the cover off
Oh...sorry about that, you came through on a Chevy 350 video. On the 02 ranger the timing cover does flow coolant through the cover. As long as you don't undo the timing chain it does no matter if the balancer moves. The computer sets the timing through the balancer which is keyed. I do have a video on a 1996 4.0L OHV timing cover gasket series which is very similar.
th-cam.com/video/5f0Wy84FjpY/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
My harmonc Balancer doesn't have threaded holes
What are you working on? There are some applications that require a different tool to get the job done.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR 2008 Ford f-150 5.4L 3v don't know why it doesn't have threaded holes I've seen others videos of the 5.4 with a normal harmonc balancer.
@@paulsosa1872 Your going need this type of puller for that application.
www.amazon.com/OTC-6667-Harmonic-Damper-Puller/dp/B000P6UT2I
This tool pulls the balancer from the inside the hub. Unfortunately you will need a specialty tool for this job. This link above should get you going.
/K&K
nope 429 Caddy tried it this way.......... ends up starting to turn crank, using same set up you have 3 bolt puller 3 x 3 inch bolts with washers
This 350 had a hi compression ratio, but in some cases we have to use a pry bar through the 3 inch bolts to hold the balancer still.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR I ended up getting a puller from Advance Auto and it was MUCH more heavy duty and was able to get the puller flush to the balancer and added a 4th bolt and it came right out!
Good Video on the puller process.. Easy PEEZY!
Now do, Let's say, a 1999 Buick Century 3.0L V6.
Bet You're Nowhere close to 30 minutes unless you cheat and don't show all Robinhood's back yard to get to the Harmonic Balancer.
Front wheel drive balancers are a different animal to get off. Even with the right tools it takes us 10-20 minutes to get one off.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR Can you do a video of this?
What does ghetto mean
But how did the both stay in there after you pull off the balancer
That's what I'm talking about
So basically... use the tool as you're supposed to. How is this the 'quick and dirty way'?
Yeah well this would work if there were actual threads on the holes of my harmonic balancer even the new one have the 2 holes that look like screws should go there but once again its completely unthreaded so now im just watching video after video of dudes saying easy peasy any issues im on day 2 trying to get this thing off rented 2 different pullers one like you used witch doesn't work because no threads in the holes and then the claw puller isn't working either
You need this puller below. I hope this helps. Tools make all the difference!
www.amazon.com/Professional-Automotive-Balancers-Compatible-Mitsubishi/dp/B08FD1FQSC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuaiXBhCCARIsAKZLt3k4qVumNvItyZ1hOVTMpKK0hIqndy-0uF86LV8fxwmy9cavbBTT63UaAl8DEALw_wcB&hvadid=177542731164&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033784&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14757711534962316704&hvtargid=kwd-99123385446&hydadcr=5741_9590434&keywords=ls+harmonic+balancer+puller&qid=1659552546&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOTlCMkRKSFFLUjFTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzA1Mjc1MUZYNVpOS1hKUkNGVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTAxMjg5MURYT1BWR0JNSFI0MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
/K&K
That'd be great if the 3 bolts would quit breaking
Nice, but you didn't include the time for moving everything out of the way BEFORE the starting point. Some cars you have to pull the whole radiator first.
We did record the full repair please check out the link below.
th-cam.com/video/_UdtG4Yfpz8/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
....and, what about the old GM style 80's harmonic balancers that didn't have holes and were covered by a rubber ring? Hmmmmm?? "Any harmonic balancer" - I think not!
Yes ones without holes requires a different tool but "it should take 5 minutes or less" when done as shown in this video.
/K&K
it is not seized. if so, you can't get it out
5 minutes after the hour or so to remove everything else !
Yup its about an hour to get to this point. Here is the link below to the full video tear down video series.
th-cam.com/video/_UdtG4Yfpz8/w-d-xo.html
/K&K
Some of the more modern balances do not have holes in them. They're a bitch to do with a puller.
We have noticed we are needed a lot more specialty tools to do simple repairs with these newer modern cars. These tools are not cheap.
/K&K
NOT TRUE NOT TRUE NOT TRUE some balancers have no threaded holes, like the gm 3.0/3.6 for example
This trick works with most old school engines, the modular engines of today are a whole difference animal to pull balancers on.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR Appears engines like the gm 3.0/3.6 have the same basic balancer, just doesn't have threaded holes in the balancer therefore requiring a
different "Harmonic balancer puller"
Just to let u know, the bolt method did NOT work on my 350 chevy, in my 1976 Camaro. I had to remove the bolt, which was the first step, in order for the tool to correctly be placed against the crank in order for the balancer to come off. Other wise i would have stripped the bolts eventually if I torqued it enough...
“any harmonic balancer” nice try pal mercedes snuck one past ya this time lol
Except German balancers, you need specific tools for pulling their balancers.
/K&K
All balancers are not the same.
Your right this video applies to old school engines, modular engines are a another story all together.
/K&K
Stuck... You dont know STUCK!
Stop lieing to your viewers if it's seized you will break something like that and not all balancers are the same some don't even have thread holes so this is not for all ballancers
I don't lie to my viewers! Balancers don't seize, if they are not coming off there something your not doing right. This video shows the process of basic balancer removal in 5 minutes or less. Yes there are some application this video will not cover because new modular engine don't use threaded balancer anymore but most older engines do which are the one i work on and show on this channel.
/K&K