Quite educational again! You have made my adventures in casting not only fun but very successful! And it will get even better soon. Thank you for your time and effort in making these videos.
That came out great 👍🏻 great knowledge for those that want to learn. I’m glad you talked about “cast and foundry” terminology. I think it’s The 2 things people get wrong the most.
The big question is "Do you have a foundry or not?" It seems to me that if you have all the stuff to make tutorials about metal casting that you are pretty close. Maybe a "foundry" is a place where you don't have to put your tools away between casting sessions?
I'm hoping the next one won't require so many words in such a short time span :-D But you've known me long enough to know that I can't keep from talking :-D
Great video! I hope this helps clear some things up for people. When I heard about talcum powder being carcinogenic I was obviously concerned about the fact that I had been using baby powder as a parting agent for some time. I came to realize that the baby powder I have been using is actually corn starch based. Of course I’m using petrobond but I can say that cornstarch based baby powder works very well. It’s possible that over time the corn starch may cause problems but I haven’t seen that happen in the three years I have been using my sand.
Thanks Seth, When I first started, I looked specifically for talc-based baby powder avoiding the corn-based version. Of course at the time I knew absolutely nothing and just assumed the talc would be better. I have no idea if corn will do anything to your sand or not. Probably no worse than burnt oil ;-)
Why is talc bad for casting ? Baby powder might be slightly carcinogenic when regularly applied to the perineum but that's not where it goes when casting (at least I hope not)
BigstackD sent me here to check out your videos since I'm getting started with my first setup. Thanks for your work, I look forward to learning and having fun melting metal!
Wait! I didn't see the compressed air. The "Spoons make people fat" line is a counterpoint to "Guns kill people". At least I believe that is the origin of the phrase.
swdweeb I did have to go back and look. I’ve never heard a screen called that. Now I’m going to get some looks when I go to the store and ask for a “riddle”. 😂
Great video again! I have some lecture about the home foundry, one book about furnaces and one book about making patterns and moulds etc. I know most of the words, but I use them incorrect sometimes. I think I pack the sand far too tight, a lot brakes loose when I remove my pattern, also trying to get a sprue inside the sand is not going to work as a lot of sand breaks loose. I have some 15mm pipe rammed up with my pattern to act as sprue and vents. Carving out the channels (runners?) is sometimes also a nightmare 😂 I need to look into that pouring basin you use. For now I (again) use a tin can to act as pouring basin. Good tip about those small vents! Will and them too in my next project I think. I will also experiment with a little less rammed up sand, hard on the edges but less hard on top of the pattern. Looking forward again to the next video 😁👋👋
My sprue measures 155 mm tall and narrows from 15mm to just a hair under 8mm. I think it is 1.4 degrees of draft. You really should attempt to make one and stop using a straight sprue to pour into. In two weeks I'll talk more about why with some pretty interesting demonstrations. I'll also be talking about runners and gates in a future video (at least three weeks away). To create a properly pressurized system with minimal turbulence you need to limit the size of your runner to the size of the bottom of your sprue. It's all about keeping the system full from the very beginning of the pour until the end. If your sprue and runner are too big, they will have lots of turbulence and lots of air gets mixed into your mold. I would be shocked if you are able to keep a straight sprue that large full from the start of the pour. Put a camera directly over it and record your next pour, I can almost guarantee you will see space between the metal and the sprue walls as you pour. Sand breaking might be due to other reasons... perhaps I should do a video on clean pattern release. Maybe I'll learn something :-D I'm not trying to be harsh, I just want to see you start to develop good practices that will result in much better castings. I promise.
I use a lady's foundation handle and place it in the cope after I ram up drag . Drag with pattern, flip, ram cope with tapered ladys foundation handle. Hope it helps . And runners dont stress too much they dont need to be fantastic at the start.. you will learn what works and what doesnt :)
@@raschellesherwood6347 I've actually got a batch of my sand out to a lab for analysis. If it ever comes back I'll do a video on it and any adjustments I might make as a result.
@@swdweeb really. Lol sand analysis is fairly serious inquires lol. Dunno if that info would be any use to you except on that sand for a pour happening on that day.. sand explodes and clay burns away, always changing is size shape and its capacity to hold shape yada yada yada . Do you think so too? Or am I being a newbie loser lol
Great presentation. Thanks for the overview (using the casting) of pour basin/gate/spin trap and elevation of metal entry. Very smart to make those via 3D prints! Looking forward to the math you used.
You'll be pretty disappointing in the math I use, especially for tiny parts like this. Essentially I take the area that is the bottom of my sprue and try to make the cross-sectional area of my runner match it. The gate is another story, I typically make my gates larger than the runner simply because I want to lower the velocity the metal enters the mold. With my sprue height, I'm right at about 1M/sec coming off the sprue. Making the gate larger takes me under 1M/sec
@@swdweeb Thanks! Your generalized approach is still going to be more consistent than just cutting holes and channels in the sand! Someday we'll have a spreadsheet, and using "parameters" in fusion 360, be able to custom 3D print what we need for each casting. Do I smell porosity tests in the future? Maybe a 3D printed pouring basin?
@@hippie-io7225 I did a bit of a porosity test here th-cam.com/play/PLU1QP34Dv8Y6-qXska4MOagRMSVWan40k.html. I've also got a pouring basin that olfoundryman and smalcnclathes modeled here drive.google.com/file/d/1T3oFhtVCp7kmZ-S2wo8B3lYxiCLD2u9E/view?usp=sharing The sprue height and diameter is going to set the limits on how fast you pour. SO far, I haven't poured anything that my 8mm (bottom) sprue can't fill. I'm sure that with a really large part I'd need/want a larger sprue but so far... No matter what size it is, you want to be able to pour fast enough to keep it full.
Looks like you are back in the game! Nice concise video. The plack turned out great as well. Now let's see you make one out of cast iron. :) Cheers from Juneau Alaska Greg Chaney
Sigh... cast iron... my old nemesis. I"m building a new furnace...ever so slowly... Maybe I'll give it another try....😕 Got another video coming out Thursday... just a fun one, not on the learning series
There are some other terms you didn't use; however I don't think they are very commonly used. Fettle (I think that's the proper word. See, so seldom used even I can't remember it.): that's the cleanup of the part. Cutting off the runner, removing the flash (if any), etc. Rapping (no, not what Tupac was known for): the gentle tapping (as well as the tool used) that helps to release the model from the mould. Also, I think 'foundry' is in common enough usage to refer to the thing that melts your metal that you should just let that one go. It might make sense in a large factory, but I don't think it is that significant a distinction for the hobbyist. And you have a foundry, as you have somewhere to store and use all of your casting equipment. All kidding aside, I think this was a good beginner vocabulary starter. I am sure you will define some more things along the way, but throwing out too many definitions all at once is probably counter-productive. And most other definitions are only used occasionally (such as core) or in special circumstances. What's the term for the piece of the flask that goes between the cope and the drag? I have seen it mentioned in some of the old texts (or else I have imagined it), but I don't believe I have ever seen one used.
Hey Brian, Yeah, I'm sure there a whole raft of terms that I don't know and didn't mention. The goal was to try and hit the most common, although I guess a riddle doesn't quite fit that criteria. I did learn from @Tobho Mott that the ends of a ramming tool are called the peen and butt. Something to mention in my next video. I guess we'll just have to disagree on whether knowing the difference between an oven and a kitchen is important. I suppose its fair to say you cook food in either. Go ahead and get prepped for my rant on feeder versus riser 😆
It doesn't hold paint great. I've recently been thinking I need to use a primer for painting to increase adhesion. The thing I've noticed is that I only lose small flecks of paint. Probably 99% of it sticks but you don;t want to lose any of it.
Lol very clear and usable information. Stepped out very simply and understandable. Fantastic intro. But this hobby/ skill is addictive be warned.. lol great video perry
This series is very cool, I myself have learned from watching casters like yourself, I think I watched you make your new sand rammer 5 times before I "casted" my own... sorry couldn't resist 😂 Also... when will this series be released on dvd? 😂😋 Kidding aside... awesome job! 👍👊
They changed that recently to 8 minutes. They're now allowing mid-video ads to pop up if you're over 8 minutes. I'm trying to keep them below 10 just to keep interest up. My revenue numbers are so low, I lose money simply uploading a video :-D
@@eulerizeit I joke about getting paid because my numbers are so low there's not a huge difference between getting paid and not getting paid. My real job takes care of me very well. YT is just for fun.
@@swdweeb Y yes Sir, ree! My buddy's StratoCaster and my wife's Castanets, I Casteded really goods! However, since I see that you're actually someone who responds to people, thank you. Really valuable videos you made here. Also, thanks for the introduction to John Campbell and referencing the others that you've learned from. I've been watching a Strailian Dude, getting motivated to start working with metals and in his beginner recommendations, he links your playlist here. I like the idea of metals, even more than the plastics that I do now. However, it's neat that the skills that I use in plastics seems transferable to metals and in many ways, seems more suitable for metals. For example, Shrinkage. In plastics you can only fix that problem with pressure which means that you really need to preplan your melts or weld finished pieces together. But with metals, that problem is fixed with Feeders. Cool beans! I'd like some advice, if I may? Especially since I'm probably a few months away from starting up. Since things aren't standard everywhere (not everyplace has the same equipment and materials) for my homemade furnace, what do you think of the idea of a Plaster of Paris/Steel Wool mixture coated onto Tinplate and Butane fueled instead of Propane? I was thinking about that because I wasn't planning on working with something like Copper. High temp stuff. But instead with Zinc, Pewter and Aluminum. Butane I ask because I use a Laser 3000 Butane torch with my plastics work and Soldering. Also, because if I don't need to buy a new tool, why would I? Thank you again for these videos. Take care.
Fun, I almost named my son "Tele" but my wife wouldn't go for it. 😄 I assume that Aussie is bidD. He's a good guy. Thanks for letting me know his channel led you here. I've never done any sort of polastic casting but I can imagine, as you say, the skills are pretty transferable. Certainly you have to think about a lot of the same things. FWIW, in the metal shrinkage problem there are alse things called freeze plates. I've never used them but they are essentially pieces of "cold" steel that freeze the surface of the metal quickly to help prevent surface shrink. Regarding your furnace, for low-temp metals like you listed plaster might work. I've seen guys mix sand in as well. If you starting getting really hot (1000F+) the plaster wont last. It might even starting deteriorating at lower temps. I've never worked with butane so I can't say anything about it as a heat source. When you build your furnace, assume your torch is going to point directly at the crucible and not try and "rotate" flame around it. Crucibles don't last as long that way but they will heat much faster. Good luck
@@swdweeb Tele, as in Telly Savalas? If that's the case Awesome! Perhaps is you told her that Tele was short for Aristotle, she would have gone for it. Cool, you met the Strailian Dude. He talked with me in the chat from time to time. Educated me on Ned Kelly, but hell, that Dude's got over a Mil. subs. He can't really chit chat with everyone. But it's nice to learn that he's a good guy. I guess that it comes out a bit in his humor. Oh but yeah, BigD was who led me here. Thanks for the furnace and flame positioning advice. When you were talking about Crucibles not lasting long, I'm assuming that you're talking about Clay/Graphite, right? Or Crucibles in general? Because I want to start out On The Cheep, to practice skills before investing, and I was thinking of using and old Stainless Steel coffee mug that I got as my Crucible. Thoughts? Again, thanks for the advice. Take care.
@@dionysislarson6352 tele as in telecaster. I never recommend metal canisters for crucibles. Aluminum is very corrosive when melted and will eat through stainless after a few uses. I suppose if you just want to try it, you can but I would certainly never recommend it long term.
Another nice visit to your foundry. Thanks !!
😁 Picked up on that did you?
Quite educational again! You have made my adventures in casting not only fun but very successful! And it will get even better soon. Thank you for your time and effort in making these videos.
Thanks Marc. I love hearing stuff like this.
You're filling my brain with this series. Love it
Just let me know when it starts to hurt 😆
A good review of some of the fundamental terms. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks Mark
That came out great 👍🏻 great knowledge for those that want to learn. I’m glad you talked about “cast and foundry” terminology. I think it’s The 2 things people get wrong the most.
"For those that want to learn" :-D That's why I'll never achieve greatness :-D Thanks bud. Looking forward to the next video.
swdweeb I’m sure it’ll have some flavor 😉
The big question is "Do you have a foundry or not?" It seems to me that if you have all the stuff to make tutorials about metal casting that you are pretty close. Maybe a "foundry" is a place where you don't have to put your tools away between casting sessions?
Just what are you implying Greg??? Maybe I just have too many to put away 😄😄
A very interesting video Perry, and long overdue in the hobby casting world.
Thanks Mark
Awesome tutorial Perry!
Thanks mate.
We're with you so far Perry, keep'em coming! :)
I'm hoping the next one won't require so many words in such a short time span :-D But you've known me long enough to know that I can't keep from talking :-D
Great video! I hope this helps clear some things up for people. When I heard about talcum powder being carcinogenic I was obviously concerned about the fact that I had been using baby powder as a parting agent for some time. I came to realize that the baby powder I have been using is actually corn starch based. Of course I’m using petrobond but I can say that cornstarch based baby powder works very well. It’s possible that over time the corn starch may cause problems but I haven’t seen that happen in the three years I have been using my sand.
Thanks Seth,
When I first started, I looked specifically for talc-based baby powder avoiding the corn-based version. Of course at the time I knew absolutely nothing and just assumed the talc would be better. I have no idea if corn will do anything to your sand or not. Probably no worse than burnt oil ;-)
Why is talc bad for casting ? Baby powder might be slightly carcinogenic when regularly applied to the perineum but that's not where it goes when casting (at least I hope not)
@Louiscare everything I’ve heard is talc is bad to breathe. I used corn starch before I started using diamond part
Thank you for showing us your tips and tricks
You are more than welcome.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you
BigstackD sent me here to check out your videos since I'm getting started with my first setup. Thanks for your work, I look forward to learning and having fun melting metal!
Thanks for letting me know. Don’t hesitate to ask questions if you have them
Wait! I didn't see the compressed air.
The "Spoons make people fat" line is a counterpoint to "Guns kill people". At least I believe that is the origin of the phrase.
Ha, I haven't actually "seen" air since the Southern California air of the early seventies... leaded gas and all :-D
I’m gonna have to watch that at least 20 more times to get all that. You my friend should keep making videos.
Thanks. I really appreciate that. Now what's a "riddle" used for? 😂
swdweeb to exercise ones ingenuity!!!! 😂
@@jasongrinnell1986 Ha! That too 🤣
swdweeb I did have to go back and look. I’ve never heard a screen called that. Now I’m going to get some looks when I go to the store and ask for a “riddle”. 😂
@@jasongrinnell1986 You'll likely be the smartest one there 🤣
Great video again! I have some lecture about the home foundry, one book about furnaces and one book about making patterns and moulds etc. I know most of the words, but I use them incorrect sometimes. I think I pack the sand far too tight, a lot brakes loose when I remove my pattern, also trying to get a sprue inside the sand is not going to work as a lot of sand breaks loose. I have some 15mm pipe rammed up with my pattern to act as sprue and vents. Carving out the channels (runners?) is sometimes also a nightmare 😂 I need to look into that pouring basin you use. For now I (again) use a tin can to act as pouring basin. Good tip about those small vents! Will and them too in my next project I think. I will also experiment with a little less rammed up sand, hard on the edges but less hard on top of the pattern. Looking forward again to the next video 😁👋👋
My sprue measures 155 mm tall and narrows from 15mm to just a hair under 8mm. I think it is 1.4 degrees of draft. You really should attempt to make one and stop using a straight sprue to pour into. In two weeks I'll talk more about why with some pretty interesting demonstrations.
I'll also be talking about runners and gates in a future video (at least three weeks away). To create a properly pressurized system with minimal turbulence you need to limit the size of your runner to the size of the bottom of your sprue. It's all about keeping the system full from the very beginning of the pour until the end. If your sprue and runner are too big, they will have lots of turbulence and lots of air gets mixed into your mold. I would be shocked if you are able to keep a straight sprue that large full from the start of the pour. Put a camera directly over it and record your next pour, I can almost guarantee you will see space between the metal and the sprue walls as you pour.
Sand breaking might be due to other reasons... perhaps I should do a video on clean pattern release. Maybe I'll learn something :-D
I'm not trying to be harsh, I just want to see you start to develop good practices that will result in much better castings. I promise.
Check on clay content maybe add some to a small test batch and double check that this is not part of the problem :)
I use a lady's foundation handle and place it in the cope after I ram up drag . Drag with pattern, flip, ram cope with tapered ladys foundation handle. Hope it helps . And runners dont stress too much they dont need to be fantastic at the start.. you will learn what works and what doesnt :)
@@raschellesherwood6347 I've actually got a batch of my sand out to a lab for analysis. If it ever comes back I'll do a video on it and any adjustments I might make as a result.
@@swdweeb really. Lol sand analysis is fairly serious inquires lol. Dunno if that info would be any use to you except on that sand for a pour happening on that day.. sand explodes and clay burns away, always changing is size shape and its capacity to hold shape yada yada yada . Do you think so too? Or am I being a newbie loser lol
Great presentation. Thanks for the overview (using the casting) of pour basin/gate/spin trap and elevation of metal entry. Very smart to make those via 3D prints!
Looking forward to the math you used.
You'll be pretty disappointing in the math I use, especially for tiny parts like this. Essentially I take the area that is the bottom of my sprue and try to make the cross-sectional area of my runner match it. The gate is another story, I typically make my gates larger than the runner simply because I want to lower the velocity the metal enters the mold. With my sprue height, I'm right at about 1M/sec coming off the sprue. Making the gate larger takes me under 1M/sec
@@swdweeb Thanks! Your generalized approach is still going to be more consistent than just cutting holes and channels in the sand!
Someday we'll have a spreadsheet, and using "parameters" in fusion 360, be able to custom 3D print what we need for each casting.
Do I smell porosity tests in the future?
Maybe a 3D printed pouring basin?
@@hippie-io7225 I did a bit of a porosity test here th-cam.com/play/PLU1QP34Dv8Y6-qXska4MOagRMSVWan40k.html. I've also got a pouring basin that olfoundryman and smalcnclathes modeled here drive.google.com/file/d/1T3oFhtVCp7kmZ-S2wo8B3lYxiCLD2u9E/view?usp=sharing
The sprue height and diameter is going to set the limits on how fast you pour. SO far, I haven't poured anything that my 8mm (bottom) sprue can't fill. I'm sure that with a really large part I'd need/want a larger sprue but so far... No matter what size it is, you want to be able to pour fast enough to keep it full.
This is great as I'm new to pouring and my verbiage needs some help. Thanks for the great video
Glad it was helpful!
Looks like you are back in the game! Nice concise video. The plack turned out great as well. Now let's see you make one out of cast iron. :)
Cheers from Juneau Alaska
Greg Chaney
Sigh... cast iron... my old nemesis. I"m building a new furnace...ever so slowly... Maybe I'll give it another try....😕
Got another video coming out Thursday... just a fun one, not on the learning series
The sand looks great.
I'm really happy with my sand now. The more I use it, the better it gets.
Nicely done!
Thanks!
This great and understandable!
Thank you
Great video Perry
thanks
I didn't keep up at all! But I will learn, eventually. Good stuff!
You can always listen again and again and again... 😄
Hi, how did you get the sand to stick together, not to fall apart when you turn it over???
The sand is a combination of sand, clay and water. Pressing it down causes it to bind together. th-cam.com/video/tDbWJsulZLc/w-d-xo.html
Great lesson Perry. Next thing you know I will be getting a 3D printer and a crucible and make me a furnace. :)
At the rate you're falling apart, you better hurry old man :-D
There are some other terms you didn't use; however I don't think they are very commonly used.
Fettle (I think that's the proper word. See, so seldom used even I can't remember it.): that's the cleanup of the part. Cutting off the runner, removing the flash (if any), etc.
Rapping (no, not what Tupac was known for): the gentle tapping (as well as the tool used) that helps to release the model from the mould.
Also, I think 'foundry' is in common enough usage to refer to the thing that melts your metal that you should just let that one go. It might make sense in a large factory, but I don't think it is that significant a distinction for the hobbyist. And you have a foundry, as you have somewhere to store and use all of your casting equipment.
All kidding aside, I think this was a good beginner vocabulary starter. I am sure you will define some more things along the way, but throwing out too many definitions all at once is probably counter-productive. And most other definitions are only used occasionally (such as core) or in special circumstances.
What's the term for the piece of the flask that goes between the cope and the drag? I have seen it mentioned in some of the old texts (or else I have imagined it), but I don't believe I have ever seen one used.
Hey Brian, Yeah, I'm sure there a whole raft of terms that I don't know and didn't mention. The goal was to try and hit the most common, although I guess a riddle doesn't quite fit that criteria. I did learn from @Tobho Mott that the ends of a ramming tool are called the peen and butt. Something to mention in my next video.
I guess we'll just have to disagree on whether knowing the difference between an oven and a kitchen is important. I suppose its fair to say you cook food in either. Go ahead and get prepped for my rant on feeder versus riser 😆
excellent
Thanks!
Where can you buy sprues,gates,runners, ect? I dont have a 3D printer to make my own.
Sorry for the late reply. Email me at swdweeb@gmail.com and we can talk about it. I have a solution but I'm not ready for a public announcment.
Does aluminum hold paint properly? does it get flaky or something along those lines?
It doesn't hold paint great. I've recently been thinking I need to use a primer for painting to increase adhesion. The thing I've noticed is that I only lose small flecks of paint. Probably 99% of it sticks but you don;t want to lose any of it.
I love the message!!!
Yeah, those dang spoons. I had one start shoveling ice cream down my throat last night. Nothing I could do to stop it :-D
@@swdweeb use a tea spoon.
@@markfryer9880 It was, it just fed me at a fast rate :-D
swdweeb tragedy struck at my house with Chinese Friday evening.. Out of control the government should step in and regulate 😂😂😂
Lol very clear and usable information. Stepped out very simply and understandable. Fantastic intro. But this hobby/ skill is addictive be warned.. lol great video perry
Addictive?? Nah... 😃
@@swdweeb I sent ya some pics in email about an hour ago . Just while I have you online :)
@@raschellesherwood6347 Hmm.... I didnt get them
@@raschellesherwood6347 swdweeb@gmail.com
I miss spelled hahahahahahah I'll send again
This series is very cool, I myself have learned from watching casters like yourself, I think I watched you make your new sand rammer 5 times before I "casted" my own... sorry couldn't resist 😂
Also... when will this series be released on dvd? 😂😋 Kidding aside... awesome job! 👍👊
Ralph, you're "deaded" to me now :-D
DVD?? That's a great idea. I can give them out as Christmas gifts. My kids will love them :-D
And VHS tapes too I hope.
Took a lot of notes to learn the lingo
😆 I'm already figuring our there needs to be a part two... dross/slag smelt/melt....
Come on, the "pointy end" and "flat side" of the ram must have funny names!
They do, they are the peen and the butt. How much funnier could you hope for?
@@tobhomott Hey now keep this channel G-rated!
And no I could not have asked for more!
Seriously?? That's great. I asked my buddy that runs a foundry in Texas if he knew and he said he didn't.
Well, think about a ball pein hammer! We know what a ball looks like so the pein must be the pointy end.
@@markfryer9880 I suppose more specifically a cross pein hammer. Looks just like it
FYI, over 10 min and the monetization goes up (this is what I hear) I would totally be worth breathing for 45 sec in the middle to hit that number.
They changed that recently to 8 minutes. They're now allowing mid-video ads to pop up if you're over 8 minutes. I'm trying to keep them below 10 just to keep interest up.
My revenue numbers are so low, I lose money simply uploading a video :-D
@@swdweeb Awesome, as long as you are doing what's needed to get paid.
@@eulerizeit I joke about getting paid because my numbers are so low there's not a huge difference between getting paid and not getting paid. My real job takes care of me very well. YT is just for fun.
No. I'm gonna say it that way anyway. Just because is sounds gooder.
What did you "casted" something? 😄
@@swdweeb Y yes Sir, ree! My buddy's StratoCaster and my wife's Castanets, I Casteded really goods! However, since I see that you're actually someone who responds to people, thank you. Really valuable videos you made here. Also, thanks for the introduction to John Campbell and referencing the others that you've learned from. I've been watching a Strailian Dude, getting motivated to start working with metals and in his beginner recommendations, he links your playlist here.
I like the idea of metals, even more than the plastics that I do now. However, it's neat that the skills that I use in plastics seems transferable to metals and in many ways, seems more suitable for metals. For example, Shrinkage. In plastics you can only fix that problem with pressure which means that you really need to preplan your melts or weld finished pieces together. But with metals, that problem is fixed with Feeders. Cool beans!
I'd like some advice, if I may? Especially since I'm probably a few months away from starting up. Since things aren't standard everywhere (not everyplace has the same equipment and materials) for my homemade furnace, what do you think of the idea of a Plaster of Paris/Steel Wool mixture coated onto Tinplate and Butane fueled instead of Propane? I was thinking about that because I wasn't planning on working with something like Copper. High temp stuff. But instead with Zinc, Pewter and Aluminum. Butane I ask because I use a Laser 3000 Butane torch with my plastics work and Soldering. Also, because if I don't need to buy a new tool, why would I?
Thank you again for these videos. Take care.
Fun, I almost named my son "Tele" but my wife wouldn't go for it. 😄
I assume that Aussie is bidD. He's a good guy. Thanks for letting me know his channel led you here.
I've never done any sort of polastic casting but I can imagine, as you say, the skills are pretty transferable. Certainly you have to think about a lot of the same things. FWIW, in the metal shrinkage problem there are alse things called freeze plates. I've never used them but they are essentially pieces of "cold" steel that freeze the surface of the metal quickly to help prevent surface shrink.
Regarding your furnace, for low-temp metals like you listed plaster might work. I've seen guys mix sand in as well. If you starting getting really hot (1000F+) the plaster wont last. It might even starting deteriorating at lower temps. I've never worked with butane so I can't say anything about it as a heat source. When you build your furnace, assume your torch is going to point directly at the crucible and not try and "rotate" flame around it. Crucibles don't last as long that way but they will heat much faster.
Good luck
@@swdweeb Tele, as in Telly Savalas? If that's the case Awesome! Perhaps is you told her that Tele was short for Aristotle, she would have gone for it.
Cool, you met the Strailian Dude. He talked with me in the chat from time to time. Educated me on Ned Kelly, but hell, that Dude's got over a Mil. subs. He can't really chit chat with everyone. But it's nice to learn that he's a good guy. I guess that it comes out a bit in his humor. Oh but yeah, BigD was who led me here.
Thanks for the furnace and flame positioning advice. When you were talking about Crucibles not lasting long, I'm assuming that you're talking about Clay/Graphite, right? Or Crucibles in general? Because I want to start out On The Cheep, to practice skills before investing, and I was thinking of using and old Stainless Steel coffee mug that I got as my Crucible. Thoughts?
Again, thanks for the advice. Take care.
@@dionysislarson6352 tele as in telecaster.
I never recommend metal canisters for crucibles. Aluminum is very corrosive when melted and will eat through stainless after a few uses. I suppose if you just want to try it, you can but I would certainly never recommend it long term.
Hiya
Hiya back 😃
OMG! Is there money to be made on TH-cam????? Make me rich!
I've heard that. Make me rich?? Pay the electric bill and I'd be beside myself 😆😆
Good to see you here too.