I always use the Italian cast on for my socks, but to get rid of twists I just knit a first row without closing the initial cast on to a round so I can adjust the twists as I go. In that first row I also distribute the stitches on the DPNs (or the Crazy Trios). Only at the start of the second "row" I join to a round. This is invisible in the end.
You are truly a Master Knitter! I didn't know such a cast-on existed. Seems very complicated, but hopefully with practice, one could do it. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
You are so clear! I've tried a few of the big name co.'s tutorials for this and they don't talk you through it. You described every move, just like learning ballet or modern dance! I think I got it now!
Rox, you are the knitting master for a reason. I thought I was adept in this technique but then you ended your cast on with a long tail CO stitch and rocked my world.
Thanks a bunch madam! Your instructions are really clear. This cast on CAN be made tubular very easily: just double knit the first two needles. As in: knit the knits, slip the purls (with yarn in front). After these two tubular set up needles, resume to k1, p1 ribbing, either flat or in the round. (When in the round, the “gap” can be closed afterwards with just one sew stitch)
You explained why I was disappointed with the tubular cast on for my hat that I'm knitting in the round. I'll practice this technique before I need to use it ... less frustrating!! I learned that today too!
JUST realized that I had been improperly mounting my purls in this cast-on. THANK YOU SO MUCH! I could never figure out why my Italian cast on never looked right once worked up.
Your video is very well done but may i suggest doing a video complementary to this one. The video would be a slow motion cast on for several stitches so we could follow. Right now, I slowed the video but I have to go back several times to try to remember the moves. Thanks
It's funny; I learned do what's called the Italian caston long ago with two hands taking turns adding the knit and purl stitch on and somehow holding the needle still in my lap. I later learned what you're showing, and I think it was just called a tubular caston. Now I'm thinking DUH, they're probably producing an identical caston! (Inals o still love the double knit version with its little channel, and even Judy's magic caston for a quick one.)
Yeah, I learned that cast on more than 15 years ago. It was called Italian Tubular Cast On and used a long tail of the project yarn to cast on around, rather than waste yarn. It was a very different process for creating the tubular cast on, but gave the same result as other tubular cast on methods. This "faux tubular" one in the video is not a true tubular cast on, but it has a very similar visual appearance. The use of the label "Italian cast on" to mean "tubular cast on" (without using that long straight needle process) seems to have arisen in the past couple of years. How do you use JMCO to start a tubular CO? Do you work a few rows or rounds in stockinette, and then alternate a knit and purl off each needle after that? Do you work those first few rows/rounds on a larger needle, and then switch to a smaller one when you start the ribbing? It's an interesting idea. I remember doing something similar years ago, using a different PCO, and knitting flat before folding up the strip to alternate off each needle, but JMCO could be done flat or ITR for the set up.
Very timely video, Rox. I have been trying to use this cast on for a hat with fine yarn and needles and was really struggling with not losing any stitches while I straightened the stitches in preparation to join. This cast on does like to spiral around on the needles. I was ready to give up and use my old standby, alternating longtail, but I will give this another shot. Thank you!
Brilliantly explained! Thankyou so much, have been looking at so many videos on this, and becoming more and more confused, you have just made it all so clear and simple❤️
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
@Achilles Gabriel thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I’m enjoying n being educated via your videos, thx. Potential video: how to use up yarn effectively; how to identify yarn type (lace vs sock, Aran vs worsted vs dk) so one can use scrap yarns for hats, mittens, accents on pieces, etc.
Most of my comprehension of the technique was soiled from all the knitting lingo/slang that I don’t understand but I loved the video 😂 Also loved your comment on Hank Green’s video from today about ‘19 Rewind
Ha! This is the bubble of my TH-cam experience, which is why I don't usually "get" Rewind and why I find the Trending page so...alarming...would be the best way to describe it. :-)
what an excellent demo! At the 12:40 mark, where you show how the stitch mount differs for purl stitches depending on whether you go under 1 or 2 legs of the yarn is super helpful! Mind blown! Thank you
This video was very helpful. I think it would be easier to skip ahead and learn how to do it in the round if you started that part of the video with the same steps as you did when showing how to do the cast on for straight knitting, showing how to wrap the yarn around your fingers again and even going over how to do the cast on when the second stitch is a purl versus when the second stitch is a knit stitch. I kept having to go back to the instructions for straight knitting and then back to the section on casting on in the round to see how to finish it.
Hello Ms. Roxanne, I love your videos. However, in future videos can you please show the actual joining in the round? I noticed that many videos do not show the actual join in the round. For this cast one, do you knit flat and then join? I have watched similar videos for this cast on, and I haven't found one showing the actual join, so I always assume you knit flat, then join. Thank you again for always providing great content!
This cast on is like most cast on methods that produce an edge. After you cast on the last stitch, you then join in the round by knitting the first cast on stitch. There's nothing special about what you do. It's not a tubular cast on, so you don't have to work any set up rows flat. There is rarely a reason to knit flat before joining in the round. Some cast on methods create new stitches on the left hand needle and some create new stitches on the right hand needle. If the cast on sts are created on the left hand needle, then you need to turn the work so that the needle with the working yarn is in the right hand, and then you can join. If the cast on produces sts on the right hand needle, then there's no need to turn the work, you keep the needle with the working yarn attached to it in your right hand.
I need a longer video with how to use this easier ‘tubular’ cast on for 2 by 2 rib... 😆the longer i could watch your expert fingers, then the fewer times i need to hold on to yarn and push repeat in order to follow. Somewhat dyslexic... need to do 112 stitches on a hat for my first tubular type cast on. Not sure how much twisting is going to happen!
I actually like the results of this cast on, but I still carry around a little bit of frustration about it. :D I used it for the second pair of socks I ever knit (and before the first pair of socks there were two very simple scarfs and nothing else over a period of years), because the book I brought said it was nice and stretchy. Now, imagine me casting this on onto four bamboo DPNs on an airplane and then trying to join in the round WITHOUT doing a locking stitch at the end of the cast-on...........
Hey Rox! Thanks for this video! Can you please explain what types of patterns or garments have this type of cast on? I love all of your videos I’ve learned so much from you!😊
Knitters are free to choose any cast on they like, if it accomplishes the same result (in this case, starting a project at an edge). Some cast ons are well suited for specific stitch patterns, because the stitch pattern flows nicely from the edge. In this case, any pattern that calls for k1p1 ribbing, starting at an edge could use this cast on.
Great video! It is so much easier than the four row tubular cast on. Any recommendations for resources on how to fix dropped stitches on the faux tubular cast on? Or could you make a tutorial on it, if there isn’t one? Thanks!
Hi. Thank you so much for the education. I’m a brand new knitter. I’ve been crocheting for 40 years but just never felt comfortable knitting. I’m determined to get to that point and I have to an extent. I made a scarf which turned out pretty but I can see the errors. My mom loves it just the same. Could you please recommend a book I could purchase that I might learn the basic stitches and patterns and what they are called and how to execute them? Thanks so much. I am a new subscriber also and while a lot of your explanations go straight over my head, I’m starting to grasp a little here and there. I’ll learn🧐😄 God bless.
Your instructions are great, but I'm not having luck with this cast on. I'm using size three needles with fingering yarn and when I switch to the fives and start in the round I end up with a big gap between the two needles and it isn't looking right. I can't figure out why this is happening?
I just did it for a brioche hat. I found that I wished I had cast on with needles one size LARGER than the one I would use for my work. This cast on does not stretch nearly as much as my brioche fabric and so I would not recommend using a smaller needle for the cast on.
There are various methods for producing a tubular cast on. It should be at least as stretchy as any of those, and potentially stretchier. I would suggest working a swatch using the method you normally use, and comparing it to a swatch knit with this method, and see if you see a difference, and which one you prefer.
Really difficult to do an Italian cast on with smaller size needles if you are using cotton yarn, due to yarn getting stuck on the circular needle. Not sure what to do in this case.
Thank you so much for sharing...your tutorials always make me feel that much wiser in the craft. Fabulous 😁 One question if I may, can the 2 needle alternate cable cast on equally be used as a suitable cast on for hat brims as well? Or is the cast on demonstrated here the better option?
There's no "better" in knitting, only choices. The choice you make is based on what you need the cast on to do functionally and aesthetically, combined with what you are comfortable doing (and can remember!) and what you're in the mood for.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much for your reply. I was mainly thinking “better” in terms of elasticity and retaining shape & form e.g in hat brims
I usually use 2 knit 2 purl ribbing for socks. Would this work or make it too stretchy or difficult. I also use 2.5 mm needles and so could only go down to 2mm.
The cast on can be used in any situation in which you want to work k1p1 ribbing following the cast on. There is a matching bind off for this cast on: th-cam.com/video/rMRwAc4JGrs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Roxanne, this seems easy to do and you explained it very clearly. One question about using the smaller needle, wouldn't you use a smaller needle anyway for a rib. For instance I am doing a bottom up sweater with a rib. Main part of sweater will be knit with a 4.5mm needle and I was going to do the rib with a 4.0mm needle. What needle size would I use for the cast on? Thank you.
The point is to use a smaller needle for casting on than whatever size needle you're going to use for the rest of the ribbing, regardless of what needle size you're going to use for the rest of the project.
Thank you! I do have a question. If I am casting on a large number (say 200) stitches, I will need to stop and count them, probably more than once . How can I “anchor” the last stitch so it does not unravel while I do this? Can I anchor the temporary last stitch with the backwards loop , and then drop that as I resume the cast on? Thank you!
I don't see why not. I usually place a marker every 25 sts, with the 100th st marked with a different color, so I don't have to keep recounting from the start.
I created the end screen with two videos linked. I can see them when I play on my phone, but not my computer (via TH-cam). TH-cam says that end screens will not show on some devices, and they give an example of not showing on mobile devices except on the iPad app, yet I can see them from my phone app (obviously a mobile device), but not my laptop (which doesn't really count as a mobile device). I suspect it has something to do with their machine learning system to make things comply with the laws regarding kids, but it's clearly hasn't learned correctly, yet. If you want to see the videos mentioned, you can find them on my channel. One is the grafted/tubular bind off and the other is reversible cast on edges.
@@RoxanneRichardson I hadn't thought of that. I was watching on my Android. Currently I'm sans desktop and only use my Android and my TH-cam app; provided by my satellite provider (part of the Hopper DVR). I do see the end video suggestions (boxes) in the Dish YT app on the TV. So, the TH-cam Help article is incorrect. That's good to know as I can decide where to watch if i need easy access to suggested videos. I did a search and found your other great videos you mentioned. Thank you clarifying this.
You don't say how this cast on compares in stretchiness to a tubular cast on. I use tubular frequently for hat brims because of the neat look and the stretchiness. How does this compare?
Depending on the method you use to produce a tubular cast on, it could be just as stretchy, or stretchier. I suggest you try it on a swatch and compare to your typical method and see if you notice a difference, and if you prefer one over the other.
@@RoxanneRichardson I find that this cast-on stretches quite a bit, but does not recover very well. One of my favorite cast-ons is the German twisted long-tail cast-on. Once you get the hang of it, it's quite easy to do. It is very stretchy, and it recovers well. It also looks pretty much the same on both sides.
I would recommend swatching to see whether or not this type of CO edge will give you a result that you like. If you're looking for a reversible fabric, it's not going to look the same on both sides the way std k1p1 will with this CO, but it might give you something you like, nonetheless.
Hi roxanne, your « lessons » are just great! I improved my knitting skills thanks to you! Just one question: which cast-on method would you recommend for a sweater knitted bottom-up in terms of good elasticity at the bottom? I usually prefer and make top-down sweaters but now I have another pattern bottom-up) (knitting 1/1 in the round) Thanks for your help! Dona from Belgium
I usually use the LTCO. Any cast on can be made too tight so that it loses elasticity, and any CO can be made to have more elasticity. I do have a video on that topic here: th-cam.com/video/O9R_Ki4SeW4/w-d-xo.html (It's titled as stretchy CO for socks, but the concept is the same, regardless of the project type: you can control the amount of stretch in the CO)
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi Roxanne, another practical question. Which method do you recommend for casting on a sweater (bottom-up) with 2/1 rib. I would like an nice elastic board. Is the Italian cast on 2/1 possible? Tnx for your good advice. Dona from Belgium.
Yes. I linked to it at the end of the video. It's the grafted BO: th-cam.com/video/TAgy5huTlQw/w-d-xo.html. To do the grafted BO in the round, there is this video: th-cam.com/video/rMRwAc4JGrs/w-d-xo.html
You can use the gear icon to slow down playback speed, if that helps, or even take notes so that you can refer to written instructions you create from the video.
I haven't done a direct comparison. It's certainly stretchy. I would suggest doing a swatch with this technique and another with whatever method of tubular CO you normally use, and then compare.
Hi Rox, I noticed in the video that once you have casted on all the sts, you begin the ribbing with the larger needles. I am not familiar with this variation. Why do you recommend this rather than completing the ribbing with the smaller needle and switch to the larger needle when you begin the body? Just wondering….thanks.
The point is to CO with a needle smaller than whatever needle you need for the *ribbing* So if you need a US 5 for the ribbing and a US 7 for the main body, you would cast on with a needle smaller than the *5* (like, say, a US 4 or 3) before switching to the 5 for the rest of the ribbing, after which you would switch to the 7 for the main body.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for the clarification. Makes a lot of sense to me now. I did notice my CO edge did look too loose when I tried to use the same needles for the ribbing. Now I get it!!
I'm not Rox, but yes you will. The only way to know how many is to do a fairly large swatch with the cable and without to see how much width is drawn in by the cable. Be sure to wash and block them before figuring gauge on each. For example if the cable measures 1/4" narrower than the same number of stitches in plain stockinette, you would need to add in the number of stitches that equal 1/4" of stockinette. I'm assuming stockinette or reverse stockinette since you said plain, but if it's seed stitch or another stitch, you'd do your swatch in that pattern. You would have to add the same number of stitches for each cable you put into the pattern.
Thank you for your help. I will make a large swatch in garter stitch and the cable panel and measure it. I tried a swatch using DK yarn and I was about an inch shorter on the width than the pattern required. I will make another swatch using the Aran yarn that I planned to use for the pattern and see. The pattern gives you when made a 2inch positive ease. Thank you again for your help. Regards, Sandra
The smaller needle can give a neater/tighter cast on edge before moving into the rib pattern. Using the same size needle is still fine though. It just depends on what you like the look of but also your own tension.
Changing needle size typically indicate that the stitch size will be affected. Try doing a swatch where you use the same size needles for casting on and knitting the ribbing, and then do another where you start with a smaller needle, and compare the difference.
I have tried following this and I can't believe that I just don't get it. I need about 109 stitches of slow tutorial, not just a handful or less. Guess I have to keep practicing... but I just want to get this sweater started!!
I have been doing this Italian cast on for a hat that I knit up several times but the instructions also include two setups rows that involve knit, slip in both directions before joining in the round. Doesn’t that, technically, create a tubular cast on construction? I’m not sure what the difference would be..
It would be helpful if you told us which was the right and wrong side of the work when doing the cast on for a flat piece. E I w hen you say "if your 2nd stitch is going to be a purl" will this be a purl on the right side or the wrong side of the work? THANKS
In most cases, you'll have an even number of sts for k1p1 fabric, which means you'll always have a purl st as a 2nd st. If you're working with an odd number, then you can think of the CO row as the RS row.
I always use the Italian cast on for my socks, but to get rid of twists I just knit a first row without closing the initial cast on to a round so I can adjust the twists as I go. In that first row I also distribute the stitches on the DPNs (or the Crazy Trios). Only at the start of the second "row" I join to a round. This is invisible in the end.
Your videos are so helpful and clear and analytics of the knitting at "molecular level"😉 explaining the how and the why things are like they are.
The best demonstration of this cast on I've seen. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome!
You are truly a Master Knitter! I didn't know such a cast-on existed. Seems very complicated, but hopefully with practice, one could do it. Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
You are so clear! I've tried a few of the big name co.'s tutorials for this and they don't talk you through it. You described every move, just like learning ballet or modern dance! I think I got it now!
I'm so glad!
Rox, you are the knitting master for a reason. I thought I was adept in this technique but then you ended your cast on with a long tail CO stitch and rocked my world.
Thank you! I was about to give up on Italian cast on because I could not find a video I could follow.
I needed this cast on for a hat pattern and I had never done it before. Yours was, as always, the best explanation on TH-cam! Thank you.
You are a great teacher. Thanks for positing this.
You're very welcome!
The tip on which way to wrap the needle on the stitch was so helpful. As well as how to straighten the stitches after cast on. Thank you.
Thanks a bunch madam! Your instructions are really clear.
This cast on CAN be made tubular very easily: just double knit the first two needles. As in: knit the knits, slip the purls (with yarn in front). After these two tubular set up needles, resume to k1, p1 ribbing, either flat or in the round.
(When in the round, the “gap” can be closed afterwards with just one sew stitch)
You explained why I was disappointed with the tubular cast on for my hat that I'm knitting in the round. I'll practice this technique before I need to use it ... less frustrating!! I learned that today too!
Answered all my questions as to comparison to the tubular co. Thank you, Roxanne!
Excellent tutorial, Roxanne, thank you so much for teaching so thoroughly.
Thank you for this extremely helpful tutorial. I watch your Casual Friday videos every week and enjoy them immensely. Keep on Roxing 😉.
No one does these tutorials better!
JUST realized that I had been improperly mounting my purls in this cast-on. THANK YOU SO MUCH! I could never figure out why my Italian cast on never looked right once worked up.
thanks so much! So clear and as I'm a continental knitter, I appreciate that you are too!
WHAT !!! That is amazing ! Thank you for such clear easy to fallow instruction.
I just used this alternating cast on video to cast on a hat and I'm so happy for the clear instructions you always give. Thank you!!
The how to check for twisting part was particularly helpful
You are totally amazing!! I would never no how to do this.
Your video is very well done but may i suggest doing a video complementary to this one. The video would be a slow motion cast on for several stitches so we could follow. Right now, I slowed the video but I have to go back several times to try to remember the moves. Thanks
It's funny; I learned do what's called the Italian caston long ago with two hands taking turns adding the knit and purl stitch on and somehow holding the needle still in my lap. I later learned what you're showing, and I think it was just called a tubular caston. Now I'm thinking DUH, they're probably producing an identical caston! (Inals o still love the double knit version with its little channel, and even Judy's magic caston for a quick one.)
Yeah, I learned that cast on more than 15 years ago. It was called Italian Tubular Cast On and used a long tail of the project yarn to cast on around, rather than waste yarn. It was a very different process for creating the tubular cast on, but gave the same result as other tubular cast on methods. This "faux tubular" one in the video is not a true tubular cast on, but it has a very similar visual appearance. The use of the label "Italian cast on" to mean "tubular cast on" (without using that long straight needle process) seems to have arisen in the past couple of years.
How do you use JMCO to start a tubular CO? Do you work a few rows or rounds in stockinette, and then alternate a knit and purl off each needle after that? Do you work those first few rows/rounds on a larger needle, and then switch to a smaller one when you start the ribbing? It's an interesting idea. I remember doing something similar years ago, using a different PCO, and knitting flat before folding up the strip to alternate off each needle, but JMCO could be done flat or ITR for the set up.
Love,love, love your techhnique videos!
Exactly what I was looking for, and perfectly explained, thank you .
Great to hear!
thank you for sharing your experience with us , great tutorial
Very timely video, Rox. I have been trying to use this cast on for a hat with fine yarn and needles and was really struggling with not losing any stitches while I straightened the stitches in preparation to join. This cast on does like to spiral around on the needles. I was ready to give up and use my old standby, alternating longtail, but I will give this another shot. Thank you!
Roxanne, Thank you so much. Always helpful. 🎉🎉🎉
Brilliantly explained! Thankyou so much, have been looking at so many videos on this, and becoming more and more confused, you have just made it all so clear and simple❤️
Wow! Thank you for demonstrating this!
Thanks Roxanne !!! Just Incredible !!!!
Perfect timing. Thank you😊
This is such a great guide, thank you!! Never managed to do this nicely before, using a smaller needle to cast on makes wonders.
Right?! I usually use a larger needle so I don’t make the cast on too tight. Never would have gone down a size or two on my own.
Perfect tutorial, thank you so much!
You’re my guru 🙏
So helpful. So clear. Thank you!
Your tutorials are amazing. Very clear and easy to follow. I would love to see a tutorial on the vikkel braid and working it in the round!
sorry to be so off topic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me
@Ezra Baker Instablaster :)
@Achilles Gabriel thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Achilles Gabriel It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Ezra Baker glad I could help :)
I’m enjoying n being educated via your videos, thx. Potential video: how to use up yarn effectively; how to identify yarn type (lace vs sock, Aran vs worsted vs dk) so one can use scrap yarns for hats, mittens, accents on pieces, etc.
Thanks for the suggestion, Nancy! :-)
Most of my comprehension of the technique was soiled from all the knitting lingo/slang that I don’t understand but I loved the video 😂 Also loved your comment on Hank Green’s video from today about ‘19 Rewind
Ha! This is the bubble of my TH-cam experience, which is why I don't usually "get" Rewind and why I find the Trending page so...alarming...would be the best way to describe it. :-)
Thanks, very helpful info. 🌼🌺🌸 well explained and illustrated.
Love the option for locking the yarn at then end of the cast on. that bit has been a bane for a while
This helped me so much, thank you!
Glad it helped!
what an excellent demo! At the 12:40 mark, where you show how the stitch mount differs for purl stitches depending on whether you go under 1 or 2 legs of the yarn is super helpful! Mind blown! Thank you
This video was very helpful. I think it would be easier to skip ahead and learn how to do it in the round if you started that part of the video with the same steps as you did when showing how to do the cast on for straight knitting, showing how to wrap the yarn around your fingers again and even going over how to do the cast on when the second stitch is a purl versus when the second stitch is a knit stitch. I kept having to go back to the instructions for straight knitting and then back to the section on casting on in the round to see how to finish it.
perfect, thank you
4:15 - 4:47 for the repeat 😊
Thank you! Thank you! ❤🥰💞👏🏻👏🏻
Hello Ms. Roxanne, I love your videos. However, in future videos can you please show the actual joining in the round? I noticed that many videos do not show the actual join in the round. For this cast one, do you knit flat and then join? I have watched similar videos for this cast on, and I haven't found one showing the actual join, so I always assume you knit flat, then join. Thank you again for always providing great content!
This cast on is like most cast on methods that produce an edge. After you cast on the last stitch, you then join in the round by knitting the first cast on stitch. There's nothing special about what you do. It's not a tubular cast on, so you don't have to work any set up rows flat. There is rarely a reason to knit flat before joining in the round. Some cast on methods create new stitches on the left hand needle and some create new stitches on the right hand needle. If the cast on sts are created on the left hand needle, then you need to turn the work so that the needle with the working yarn is in the right hand, and then you can join. If the cast on produces sts on the right hand needle, then there's no need to turn the work, you keep the needle with the working yarn attached to it in your right hand.
Thank you for the information!! I am going to work on it this weekend.
Thank you💛
You're amazing😍
Thank you for sharing. Would you be able to make a video of the Channel Islands Cast On from the UK ?
Thank you. I'm trying to knit the weekender and can't understand the tubular cast on. I think I can do this one.🎁🎄
I need a longer video with how to use this easier ‘tubular’ cast on for 2 by 2 rib... 😆the longer i could watch your expert fingers, then the fewer times i need to hold on to yarn and push repeat in order to follow. Somewhat dyslexic... need to do 112 stitches on a hat for my first tubular type cast on. Not sure how much twisting is going to happen!
I actually like the results of this cast on, but I still carry around a little bit of frustration about it. :D
I used it for the second pair of socks I ever knit (and before the first pair of socks there were two very simple scarfs and nothing else over a period of years), because the book I brought said it was nice and stretchy. Now, imagine me casting this on onto four bamboo DPNs on an airplane and then trying to join in the round WITHOUT doing a locking stitch at the end of the cast-on...........
Hey Rox! Thanks for this video! Can you please explain what types of patterns or garments have this type of cast on? I love all of your videos I’ve learned so much from you!😊
Knitters are free to choose any cast on they like, if it accomplishes the same result (in this case, starting a project at an edge). Some cast ons are well suited for specific stitch patterns, because the stitch pattern flows nicely from the edge. In this case, any pattern that calls for k1p1 ribbing, starting at an edge could use this cast on.
Ok got it! Thank you so much for responding so quickly!!!🙏😊
You're the best!!!
Great video! It is so much easier than the four row tubular cast on. Any recommendations for resources on how to fix dropped stitches on the faux tubular cast on? Or could you make a tutorial on it, if there isn’t one? Thanks!
How do you incorporate a bigger needle when doing this cast on in the round?
Is there a K2 P2 rib version of this method?
Yes. I'll be doing a video on that in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks.
Hi. Thank you so much for the education. I’m a brand new knitter. I’ve been crocheting for 40 years but just never felt comfortable knitting. I’m determined to get to that point and I have to an extent. I made a scarf which turned out pretty but I can see the errors. My mom loves it just the same. Could you please recommend a book I could purchase that I might learn the basic stitches and patterns and what they are called and how to execute them? Thanks so much. I am a new subscriber also and while a lot of your explanations go straight over my head, I’m starting to grasp a little here and there. I’ll learn🧐😄
God bless.
Thanks you
Your instructions are great, but I'm not having luck with this cast on. I'm using size three needles with fingering yarn and when I switch to the fives and start in the round I end up with a big gap between the two needles and it isn't looking right. I can't figure out why this is happening?
I just did it for a brioche hat. I found that I wished I had cast on with needles one size LARGER than the one I would use for my work. This cast on does not stretch nearly as much as my brioche fabric and so I would not recommend using a smaller needle for the cast on.
Thank you for this. A great alternative to the tubular. Is it as stretchy as the tubular?
There are various methods for producing a tubular cast on. It should be at least as stretchy as any of those, and potentially stretchier. I would suggest working a swatch using the method you normally use, and comparing it to a swatch knit with this method, and see if you see a difference, and which one you prefer.
Really difficult to do an Italian cast on with smaller size needles if you are using cotton yarn, due to yarn getting stuck on the circular needle. Not sure what to do in this case.
Thank you so much for sharing...your tutorials always make me feel that much wiser in the craft. Fabulous 😁
One question if I may, can the 2 needle alternate cable cast on equally be used as a suitable cast on for hat brims as well? Or is the cast on demonstrated here the better option?
There's no "better" in knitting, only choices. The choice you make is based on what you need the cast on to do functionally and aesthetically, combined with what you are comfortable doing (and can remember!) and what you're in the mood for.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much for your reply. I was mainly thinking “better” in terms of elasticity and retaining shape & form e.g in hat brims
Is it ok to knit the twisted rib stitch for the remaining rib? Love this video, you explain this very clearly.
Yes, it's okay. :-)
I usually use 2 knit 2 purl ribbing for socks. Would this work or make it too stretchy or difficult. I also use 2.5 mm needles and so could only go down to 2mm.
I'll be doing a video on the 2x2 alternating CO in the next week or two.
Oh thank you. I really appreciate your tutorials and recent KAL particularly relating to sizing socks.
Can this cast on work foer finferless mittens, is there a bind off I could use also? Thank you !
The cast on can be used in any situation in which you want to work k1p1 ribbing following the cast on. There is a matching bind off for this cast on: th-cam.com/video/rMRwAc4JGrs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Roxanne, this seems easy to do and you explained it very clearly. One question about using the smaller needle, wouldn't you use a smaller needle anyway for a rib. For instance I am doing a bottom up sweater with a rib. Main part of sweater will be knit with a 4.5mm needle and I was going to do the rib with a 4.0mm needle. What needle size would I use for the cast on? Thank you.
The point is to use a smaller needle for casting on than whatever size needle you're going to use for the rest of the ribbing, regardless of what needle size you're going to use for the rest of the project.
Thank you!
I do have a question. If I am casting on a large number (say 200) stitches, I will need to stop and count them, probably more than once . How can I “anchor” the last stitch so it does not unravel while I do this?
Can I anchor the temporary last stitch with the backwards loop , and then drop that as I resume the cast on?
Thank you!
I don't see why not. I usually place a marker every 25 sts, with the 100th st marked with a different color, so I don't have to keep recounting from the start.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for your speedy response! And yes, that is exactly how I also mark the stitches.
Please, give links to suggested videos. TH-cam Help says TH-cam has eliminated suggestions/annotations from within videos. Thank you.
I created the end screen with two videos linked. I can see them when I play on my phone, but not my computer (via TH-cam). TH-cam says that end screens will not show on some devices, and they give an example of not showing on mobile devices except on the iPad app, yet I can see them from my phone app (obviously a mobile device), but not my laptop (which doesn't really count as a mobile device). I suspect it has something to do with their machine learning system to make things comply with the laws regarding kids, but it's clearly hasn't learned correctly, yet. If you want to see the videos mentioned, you can find them on my channel. One is the grafted/tubular bind off and the other is reversible cast on edges.
@@RoxanneRichardson I hadn't thought of that. I was watching on my Android. Currently I'm sans desktop and only use my Android and my TH-cam app; provided by my satellite provider (part of the Hopper DVR). I do see the end video suggestions (boxes) in the Dish YT app on the TV. So, the TH-cam Help article is incorrect. That's good to know as I can decide where to watch if i need easy access to suggested videos. I did a search and found your other great videos you mentioned. Thank you clarifying this.
@@Kevin-mcro I didn't see them on my android phone, either.
You don't say how this cast on compares in stretchiness to a tubular cast on. I use tubular frequently for hat brims because of the neat look and the stretchiness. How does this compare?
Depending on the method you use to produce a tubular cast on, it could be just as stretchy, or stretchier. I suggest you try it on a swatch and compare to your typical method and see if you notice a difference, and if you prefer one over the other.
@@RoxanneRichardson I find that this cast-on stretches quite a bit, but does not recover very well. One of my favorite cast-ons is the German twisted long-tail cast-on. Once you get the hang of it, it's quite easy to do. It is very stretchy, and it recovers well. It also looks pretty much the same on both sides.
Would you change anything if you are doing twisted rib instead of normal 1x1 rib? Thank you for your helpful videos!
I would recommend swatching to see whether or not this type of CO edge will give you a result that you like. If you're looking for a reversible fabric, it's not going to look the same on both sides the way std k1p1 will with this CO, but it might give you something you like, nonetheless.
Hello. Could you please tell me where I could find the pattern for the cardigan you’re wearing in this video? I really like it .
The project page in my Ravelry notebook is here: ravel.me/Rox/lpc There are links to the yarn and pattern from the project page.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much for replying
Hi roxanne, your « lessons » are just great! I improved my knitting skills thanks to you! Just one question: which cast-on method would you recommend for a sweater knitted bottom-up in terms of good elasticity at the bottom? I usually prefer and make top-down sweaters but now I have another pattern bottom-up) (knitting 1/1 in the round) Thanks for your help! Dona from Belgium
I usually use the LTCO. Any cast on can be made too tight so that it loses elasticity, and any CO can be made to have more elasticity. I do have a video on that topic here: th-cam.com/video/O9R_Ki4SeW4/w-d-xo.html (It's titled as stretchy CO for socks, but the concept is the same, regardless of the project type: you can control the amount of stretch in the CO)
Thank you Roxanne, I will have a quick view! Have a nice weekend! Dona
@@RoxanneRichardson Hi Roxanne, another practical question. Which method do you recommend for casting on a sweater (bottom-up) with 2/1 rib. I would like an nice elastic board. Is the Italian cast on 2/1 possible? Tnx for your good advice. Dona from Belgium.
Is the stretchiness different between the two methods?
Not that I've noticed.
Is there a matching cast off for this technique? If not, then what cast off would be a good match?
Yes. I linked to it at the end of the video. It's the grafted BO: th-cam.com/video/TAgy5huTlQw/w-d-xo.html. To do the grafted BO in the round, there is this video: th-cam.com/video/rMRwAc4JGrs/w-d-xo.html
@@RoxanneRichardson Many thanks:)
Really love this technique but struggle to absorb the instructions quickly, I wonder if there are written instructions available
You can use the gear icon to slow down playback speed, if that helps, or even take notes so that you can refer to written instructions you create from the video.
can this be done for 2x2 ribbing?
Yes, but there's a slightly different approach. This video explains it th-cam.com/video/QT_Z6u7nyAs/w-d-xo.html
What's the matching bind off, please?
The grafted bind off. It's the tubular bind off without the set up rows. th-cam.com/video/TAgy5huTlQw/w-d-xo.html
Does this have as much stretch as the tubular cast on?
I haven't done a direct comparison. It's certainly stretchy. I would suggest doing a swatch with this technique and another with whatever method of tubular CO you normally use, and then compare.
Hi Rox, I noticed in the video that once you have casted on all the sts, you begin the ribbing with the larger needles. I am not familiar with this variation. Why do you recommend this rather than completing the ribbing with the smaller needle and switch to the larger needle when you begin the body? Just wondering….thanks.
The point is to CO with a needle smaller than whatever needle you need for the *ribbing* So if you need a US 5 for the ribbing and a US 7 for the main body, you would cast on with a needle smaller than the *5* (like, say, a US 4 or 3) before switching to the 5 for the rest of the ribbing, after which you would switch to the 7 for the main body.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for the clarification. Makes a lot of sense to me now. I did notice my CO edge did look too loose when I tried to use the same needles for the ribbing. Now I get it!!
Hi Roxanne, great informative video. I have a question. Do you have to add stitches if you are adding a cable pattern to a plain jumper pattern?
I'm not Rox, but yes you will. The only way to know how many is to do a fairly large swatch with the cable and without to see how much width is drawn in by the cable. Be sure to wash and block them before figuring gauge on each. For example if the cable measures 1/4" narrower than the same number of stitches in plain stockinette, you would need to add in the number of stitches that equal 1/4" of stockinette. I'm assuming stockinette or reverse stockinette since you said plain, but if it's seed stitch or another stitch, you'd do your swatch in that pattern. You would have to add the same number of stitches for each cable you put into the pattern.
Thank you for your help. I will make a large swatch in garter stitch and the cable panel and measure it. I tried a swatch using DK yarn and I was about an inch shorter on the width than the pattern required. I will make another swatch using the Aran yarn that I planned to use for the pattern and see. The pattern gives you when made a 2inch positive ease. Thank you again for your help.
Regards,
Sandra
Why do you recommend casting on with a smaller needle?
The smaller needle can give a neater/tighter cast on edge before moving into the rib pattern. Using the same size needle is still fine though. It just depends on what you like the look of but also your own tension.
Why do you start on smaller needles?
Changing needle size typically indicate that the stitch size will be affected. Try doing a swatch where you use the same size needles for casting on and knitting the ribbing, and then do another where you start with a smaller needle, and compare the difference.
I have tried following this and I can't believe that I just don't get it. I need about 109 stitches of slow tutorial, not just a handful or less. Guess I have to keep practicing... but I just want to get this sweater started!!
You might find it helpful to slow the video down, using the little gear icon at the bottom of the video playback screen.
I have been doing this Italian cast on for a hat that I knit up several times but the instructions also include two setups rows that involve knit, slip in both directions before joining in the round. Doesn’t that, technically, create a tubular cast on construction? I’m not sure what the difference would be..
Well, that's the problem with the label "Italian cast on." It refers to several different cast ons. There *is* an Italian *tubular* cast on, as well.
Roxanne Richardson 🤦🏻♀️seriously! How confusing...
3:50
It would be helpful if you told us which was the right and wrong side of the work when doing the cast on for a flat piece.
E I w hen you say "if your 2nd stitch is going to be a purl" will this be a purl on the right side or the wrong side of the work?
THANKS
In most cases, you'll have an even number of sts for k1p1 fabric, which means you'll always have a purl st as a 2nd st. If you're working with an odd number, then you can think of the CO row as the RS row.
I’m weird but I find a tubular cast on easier than this!
So sorry you are going too quickly for the part in the round, cannot follow you, so confusing 😢
You can always slow down the playback speed by clicking or tapping on the gear icon at the bottom of the playback screen
Scarfs
Is that a question?
This is not the italian cast on.
There are lots of cast on methods that are labeled "Italian Cast On."
@@RoxanneRichardson it isnt the italian cast on i have added 3 ti my playlist that i have found.