Oil Consumption Fix: Replacing the Valve Cover and PCV on 2007-2013 Chevy Silverado
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- This video shows how to fix oil consumption issues caused by a faulty PCV valve system. GM issued a TSB for this exact repair #10-06-01-008F. This repair deals with all early active fuel management engines.
Dorman Part Number: 264-965
In addition to the Silverado, this also will apple to the following vehicles:
Cadillac Escalade
Chevy Avalanche, Silverado 1500, Suburban, Tahoe, Camaro
GMC Sierra 1500, Sierra Denali, Yukon
Pontiac G8 GT. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
The factory valve covers and pcv system is absolutely fine. Perfect even. I successfully use it on 02-07 Gen3/4 LM7/L33/etc... forced inducted engine with over 200,000 miles 600rwhp 800rwhp 1000rwhp no issues. The problem is people have no idea how the PCV system actually works. For example nobody understands the relationship between crankcase pressure and oil droplet radius/density. People are clueless. At wide open throttle the factory paper air filter element procures a pressure drop of approx 0.9"Hg to 1.8"Hg depending on mileage which pulls the crankcase pressure down to about 0.5"Hg to 1"Hg which is perfect, you can go 200k miles with no issues like that. The problem is when people don't maintain the PCV lines or they modify the air filter or they add a catch can (it takes energy to drive fluids through hoses and added length is added friction which kills pressure gradient raising crankcase pressure) and these lead to large oil droplets, high oil density, it kills PCV action and ruins the factory oil/air separator's kinetic energy input which causes oil to blow out of the engine and deposits forming as light hydrocarbon chains leave behind and circulate hard diamond-like and sticky tar-like carbon conglomerates which lead to eventual wear and failure. Yes I am a doctor of mechanical engineering and I've been tuning hundreds of turbocharged daily drivers since the 90's so this is part experience and part education talking. If you want to actually control the PCV system you must learn to measure the crankcase pressure. There is a DIY How-TO Video in my channel where I show you how to do it using a 1-bar map sensor and 5v source on my 5.3L Turbo 600rwhp application using a stock 240,000 miles piece of junk engine with absolute perfection success on the OEM Gen3 covers.
Thanks so much for this video, I just replaced mine in less than an hour I had to do some prying to get the old gasket to break loose, and getting my electrical connection apart without breaking anything was nerve wracking but you have just saved me a lot of cash and made me feel accomplished at the end. Awesome video, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with everyone it has been a huge help for me!
Thank you for the kind comments! Good luck with your future projects!
I know it's quite off topic but does anybody know of a good site to stream newly released series online?
@Dario Miles flixportal :P
@Adrian Chandler thank you, I went there and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!
@Dario Miles happy to help :D
I had smoke at start up in my 2007 5.3 and this fixed it. Ordered the valvecover from Amazon and installed in less than an hour and two beers ;) Thank you so much for posting.
Did the smoke like a gray color? I change my oil in my 07 avalanche. Then start smoking afterwards.
Was it really intermittent? Mines doing that, but only once in a while
Can you post the link? I was about to order one for mine. Your cover would be the exact same one I need. Thanks.
@brentbredemeyer1368 my 10 suburban does it rarely I'll try it
I searched far and wide on TH-cam, and you're the only one that gave the torque for the covers.. thank you 👍!
For anyone having the smoke on startup issue- try changing oil and adding 1oz of Seafoam per quart to the new oil. I decided to try that before ordering the new valve cover, and the problem went away within three days.
I had also soaked the inside of the cover with carb cleaner (especially inside the channel/drain/orifice of the "PCV" that isn't actually a PCV) but not sure if that accomplished anything. By the third day after, I had a load on the engine pulling a trailer for about 50 miles, and on the next cold start, everything was back to normal. It's worth a try.
Great tip. A lot of these engines have been ingesting oil for so long that the rings are no longer working to stop the oil from rising into the combustion area. SeaFoam is a great way to address this as long as the control rings are still working somewhat. Thanks for watching!
I cleaned mine out and it has been going well for a while now. Did come across the service bulletin for this and my god it's alot
You have a LOT of satisfied watchers! You made it look easy, so being an old motor head, I believe i can tackle my oil consumption (just started recently) problems with this fix. My suburban still looks new, even with 205,000 miles, so I might as well keep it, as I have never done anything major go wrong. Thanks for the video and your prompt answers.
Thank you so much for the kind comments. If the oil consumption is really severe it may be beyond the PCV being able to fix it but it's a start. Thanks for supporting the channel!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop Well, I did replace the valve cover with the new PCV today, and it was a piece of cake. Having the coil packs on the valve cover through me for a loop as I first looked at it, so thanks again! I also 'installed' the plug in Range AFM disabler a few weeks ago and didn't notice ANY help with oil consumption, but think that it's a good idea anyway, so thanks for that tip! I will monitor my oil consumption and let you know if it works.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop Before the valve cover / PCV replacement, the engine blew a CLOUD of smoke at each start, but afterward there was no cloud after starting, beginning with the very first one. The inside of the old valve cover was caked with burned oil. I'll now monitor the oil consumption, which was around a quart every couple of hundred miles. At $4/qt, the repair will pay for itself, before the next oil change, and if I sell it, I can get a good price. THANKS AGAIN!
@@jerrykorf4444 oh that's awesome! So glad everything worked!
The valve cover / PCV replacement has done the trick! No oil usage in a couple hundred miles, no smoke cloud at start up. WOW!
Got a 2007 Yukon XL. Did this repair and it completely fixed the blueish white smoke at cold start. It was pretty bad and consistent before. Still not sure about oil consumption yet but we'll see. I was going through maybe 2ish pints every 1000 miles or so. I do have a AFM disabler at the ODBii port. Thanks for the vid! Big help.
Glad to have helped! Thanks for watching!
Saw a guy do this, drill holes, 1 between each bolt, because the oil gets gummed up and stuck behind that plate. That hole on the right doesn't let it drain good enough. It allows better draining and In turn less consumption
Just wanted to say a quick thanks for the video! Used it as my blue print to do mine with a new updated valve cover this afternoon! Love the easy step by step and clear pictures! Thanks for the help!
Thank you so much for the kind comment! I leaned on videos a lot when I first got started so this is my way of giving back. Good luck with your future projects!
Well I don't know the result yet, but I can say that your video was very helpful. I'm a non-mechanic but the video gave me confidence and I was able to get the job done in about an hour. Thanks very much.
Well thank you for the kind comment! Good luck with your project!
I have a 2013 Silverado 1500 with 250k highway miles. It just started to burn oil. I appreciate your video and took your advice to make the change. I installed the Range AFM disabler and saw the oil consumption go down, and the MPG actually went up . I did use an engine cleaner before I did the valve cover change, as i didnt want any dirt getting into the engine, nor did i want to get greasy.
Watching your video ahead of time the entire job took 30 minutes. My only problem was the valve cover i took off looked like the improved version. I cant imagine Chevy making the change for me, and as i already had the replacement, i consoled myself spending the money, thinking the one i had purchased had an improved PCV valve. My 1/4 drive Matco torque wrench only goes up to 50 inch pounds, so i had to use my 3/8 drive at 106 inch pounds. Otherwise it was a breeze. thanks again.
Thanks for the kind comments! Keep on wrenching!
I just used this video yesterday and it helped as far as taking the old cover off and putting the new one on. It took me about an hour to do it. I have a 2011 Silverado when I took the old one off I didn’t see a difference compared to this new one. As far as the oil consumption I’ll come back in about a month too see if this made a difference
Any difference?
@@JR-fz5uh yes the smoking stopped. It took about almost week and a half to stop the smoking. I was getting white and blue smoke sometimes. I think the pcv hose was full of old oil and I didn’t drain it so that’s why it took a week and half I guess for it to completely drain to make the smoke stop
@@BigHomie030 what about oil consumption?
@@JR-fz5uh no that did get resolved. It still consumes oil. I think it may be something else then. This did not stop it or solve that.
@@JR-fz5uh I looked at both the old cover that came off and I did not see any difference. I think maybe my truck already had this updated version because I even took a side by side picture and everything looked the same. The one thing I did notice was the seal the gasket was pretty baked and toasty I had to scrape it off with a knife to get it off and then clean it and put on new gasket seal
I would prefer the “Car” version placing the PCV valve in the center of the engine, with fresh air entering valve covers the flushing the crank ASE fumes into the middle. I got a 2003 Tahoe with 117k miles on it. Yes, a family member hit black ice then a large tree grew up in 2 seconds.
I observed wear on the valve tip ends on the driver’s side with the PCV.
Everything from water vapor, carbon particles, oil vapors, raw oil droplets and raw unburned gas when cold are produced in the crankcase. Fresh air enters on the right, sweep the crankcase and exit the left thru the PCV. All this valve cover has done is increase the length of the vapor gallery and the little wings help block raw oil from the lifter sprayed up thru the push rod.
I was shock to see any signs of wear on all valve stem ends. As a tech, it is required to look at witness marks (Both good & bad) and wear patterns. I do not have DOD or Active Fuel Management inside this block, so the center valley is wide open this area.
I chose to design my own system with fresh filtered air into both valve covers via “Tee” fitting. Using a brass pass-thru fitting, nuts on both side over aluminum crush washer. I run my PCV hose up to the normal PCV inlet on the intake. The valley design was flair fit rigid copper pipe, roll pin drilled and inserted two inches back from the outlet. The pipe is gently packed with stainless steel wool and 34 holes 1/8” diameter drilled length of the bottom and 1/3rd up the sides. The end is crimped almost shut, every 90 degrees with a cold chisel. No restrictions with air flow and if the oil condenses, then it can drip out thru the tiny holes. Washers are from OEM oil drain plug (Import) and normal brass fittings from home store. My only surprise was stainless steel wool. A little pricey and not sold by most. I suggest coarse. No issues at all, but I spent 40 years with a tool box, fixing motorcycles to 4 X 4’s. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Thank you for this video 📹 . You saved me hundreds of dollars. I did my upgrade valve cover in 45 minutes. Also use a mallet and tap the bottom from both sides and middle of the valve cover if it's hard to take out.
Great video...Changing mine tomorrow. Midas gave me an estimate for over $400. Just to change the gasket.
Yeah that's ridiculous. 20 minutes this should take you and that includes gathering tools. Thanks for the kind comment!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop
If I can’t torque it to spec will it be okay if I tighten it by hand?
Great video, took care of mine this morning. Took some jiggling to get those 8mm bolts to seat themselves. Easy job overall.
Thanks. Just changed my valve cover in 15 minutes on 2008 Avalanche. Problem solved
Awesome! Good job. Thanks for watching!
This sounds promising for my 08 Avalanche, I was dreading the alternative, swapping out the engine or giving up the truck as a whole. $$$
Before you replaced this, were you getting a lot of oil on your spark plug and ignition coil? I got a misfire code, went to change the spark plug and it’s oil everywhere in the cylinder. Does this fix the problem or is my problem deeper?
It can fix it as long as the problem isn't too bad. Once the consumption gets bad, damage will happen and then it would plug up the rings.
Also remember to clean the throttle body and the intake as much as possible then replace your spark plugs
Yes great point! Thanks for the comment.
Outside of the AFM this era gm truck was my favorite especially the later ones paired with the 6l80e.
This video is awesome! I don't need this how to at the moment but how he edited this video is A1.
Hey thank you so much! Good luck with your projects !
Spot on dude, thanks! Saved me mucho$$$👍 I always disconnect the battery when having to disconnect electric connections👍
Thanks for the kind comments! It's always a great idea to DC the battery and I often forget! Thanks for the great advice!
I just drilled 10 holes on the original baffle and cleaned with brake cleaner and diesal fuel. The pcv is an orifice and not a valve. No need to spend 70+ dollars on new valve cover.
Thanks for the great idea!
You didn't happen to take a picture of your solution after you drilled it out?
You worsened the issue by doing so. The problem with oil burn is the PCV orifice sucking up too much oil splash from the valvetrain. The revised cover has a more sheltered orifice.
He did an upgrade on his valve cover I did the same and ordered a better valve cover.
I think I’ll be doing this but I’m going to modify that shield for the pvc valve. Drill some holes in it for more drainage.
I've heard of people doing that same mod. Let us know how it works!
Thank you! Excellent video, concise and easy to understand
Great! Thanks for watching!
What was your code or symptoms the car was giving
@@TILEROB 2006 silverado 1500 5.3
Extreme smoke on startup
New valve cover 100% fixed it
Thanks, just ordered the kit. My 5.3 is burning a quart of oil about every 1500 miles. I hope this makes a difference.
I hope so too!
Did it make a difference?
What kit did you get ?
Part numbers ? Where to get ?
Mine is 2010 Silverado 5.3
I got the 264-969 part # that’s the newest for the 2011 1500 5.3 v-8 I have
Do you have a link for the updated valve cover?
GM P/N 12570427 for 2007-2008 or GM P/N 12642655 for 2009-2011
Im having this issue and to see the freat lenghts people go to make a chevy engine is crazy, im used to Toyotas v8 that dont need any knowledge or attention for 300k miles
All that junk on the valves makes it look complicated. But looking at your video it makes look doable for me. Thanks
You're very welcome! It's a very simple fix, thanks for supporting the channel!
Thanks for this video,i will do this next,just bought the range disabler
Thanks for the kind comment. The range disable is pricey but well worth it. Thanks for watching!
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Man you saved my life, or truck.
Really simple fix and really good info. Thanx again
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment, I always appreciate feedback. Good luck with the truck!
Thanks for doing the video, very informative, took a little longer but still around 30 minutes!!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
I went to burning a quart of oil every 500 miles then I put the range control device on that deactivates the fuel management now my truck burns pretty much no oil.
That's awesome! Sounds like you caught it early enough. I would recommend still replacing the valve cover to ensure it never burns oil.
how is this part done? any videos of process?
@@jesusrivas2760 Hi I just bought it and then put it into the diagnosis port and leave it plugged in. I did run Additives to help dissolve carbon also.
I didn't know until now there was any fixes for this last I heard gm just kept saying the oil consumption is "normal" even though I burn way more than should be considered normal by any stretch
I did the updated cover still smoked….. pulled new cover back off and drilled holes and problem solved no more oil consumption
After you installed the updates valve cover did it fix your oil consumption issue?
Thanks for the video.
It helped but has not cured it 100% yet. My next step is to add the oil deflector in the oil pan. Thanks for watching!
Do you remember exactly which valve cover you bought?
@@reddjohnson9728 I bought the Dorman 264965. I used Rockauto to purchase it.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop did it help ?
did this today on my 5.3 Great video and amazing explanation. thanks a lot man
Awesome! Thanks for supporting the channel!
Is there a plunger in this pcv valve, or is it simply a connector tube for the return air for the air intake manifold?
Great question. To my knowledge it's just a connector tube. I believe the way the baffles are set up on the new design make it so there's not a plunger needed. Thanks for watching!
So I have a rear main seal issue. Been replaced twice, I think the first time they put it on backwards. This time it’s more seepage. I changed the oil cooler lines as well. Hopefully changing the valve cover will shed light on my issue.
Keep me up to date on what you find out. I have a suspicion the rear main on this truck also is leaking.
XinnKoda will do, I just don’t know what it can be. Besides the PCV. I don’t think it’s the bearings cause I don’t hear a sounds coming from my engine that sounds like damaged bearings.
XinnKoda no luck on replacing the valve/pcv. Rear main seal is still leaking some oil.
Did this whole thing and more also the range unit. Didn't help with oil consumption. Every 800-1000 km I lose about 1 liter. I also noticed that driving long distance at speeds of 80 to 100 km/hr I loose oil. Driving 120 km/hr I dont loose oil and car runs smooth. Darn GM Yukon Denali Hybrid 2011.
In some cases, the engine has ingested too much oil in it's life and the oil has created carbon deposits on your oil control rings. GM has a TSB out for this but it involves putting a solution on top of all your pistons and letting it soak. The idea is the solution will dissolve all the carbon deposits on the oil rings and let them start working again. I've never talked to anyone who has done it nor am I aware of it's success. Good luck!
I replaced mine and it worked like a charm for 6 months. Now I guess I’ll order another one. POS vortec design.
I had a similar year Jeep Wrangler and it consumed oil like crazy. Bad enough where I rebuilt the engine. More and more I'm hearing about modern engines consuming oil. I wonder why that is?
Thanks great video ill do it myself too , I have smoke coming out when I step on the gas pedal...
Same. Let me know if you figure it out lol
Did you have a loss of power?
@@evilfbody3618 not really just saw white smoke and that was all.
Thank you good info. I have a 2008 silverado 1500 with 5.3.
Thanks so much for the kind comments!
Hello I have the same year Silverado, it's burning oil also did it help changing the valve covers?
After multiple videos I mainly see driver side getting replaced so I'm guessing the passenger side is not necessary to change...Correct me if I'm wrong...plus thank you for sharing this video.
Yes you are correct! Only the driver side has a PCV valve. Thanks for watching!
i always put a dab of high temp RTV silicone on valve cover in several places to keep gasket from fall off valve cover during installation.
That is a great idea! Thanks for watching!
I installed this new "updated valve cover" still going through oil, I installed clear tubing where the pcv line goes from the valve cover to the manifold and I can see oil still getting sucked into the line this valve cover does nothing.
Hey Kurtis, you may be getting excessive blow by from the crankcase. Have you considered doing an oil catch? It's possible you have a lot of carbon build up on your piston rings, especially your oil control rings. You can try putting seafoam in the oil 200-300 miles prior to changing it to see if you can free up some of that build up on the pistons. Good luck!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop excellent advice
Kurtis, what did you find was the problem?
Replace your valve seals
Do I have to replace both sides or just the passenger side?
You need to replace the driver's side. You will note it has the PCV vacuum hose coming out of it. Thanks for watching!
Great video Sr. Question, do we have to change both valve covers or only the driver side? Thank you
Did you find out
@@jamesbrien7109 yes. Only driver side
i had to put a catch can on mine. have to empty it quite often but i also have 360k on my 6.0, but it fixed the occasional cloud of burnt oil at startup.
I've considered putting a catch can on mine but was always worried I would disrupt the air flow for the pcv system. Which one did you go with and how much is it catching in between oil changes?
@@TheDadBodWorkshop I bought a cheap small one (like 11oz canister) off Amazon just cause I wasn't sure how it was going to work. They supplied a cheap hose but it kept collapsing when it got warm so I used some hydraulic hoses and clamped them on. I have to empty mine like every few days but I also drive a lot and like I said I have 360k on mine so it might be a little worse than yours.
My 2006 2500hd its the lc8 engine with the cng currently removing it. I had codes p0300 p0332 p0455 turns out I had the same problem my rocker arm wasn’t touching the valve spring or the lifter, changing the cam Bc I had needles from the needle bearings in my oil, turns out that is from cam the Rockers have ball bearings. Now I’m checking lifter to make sure it’s not bent now
Definitely the best how to on this project . KISS
Thanks for the kind comment!
Hi great video! quick question i already replaced the valve cover on my 2007 Tahoe with 180,000miles, it was replaced some years back when the miles where closer to 100,000. AFM range disabler installed around the same time, my oil consumption was very low until now! the last 6 months i've been monitoring closer and i wanna say 1 quart every 1000 miles, but my main concern now is the excessive amount of vaccum from the oil fill cap when car is at idle, what causes that? and is it possibe its related to the pcv valve maybe updated cover is plugged up again. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video :). One question I have is, is it only the driver side valve cover that would need changing? If not how do you know which side needs the work? Sorry if that's a silly question.
I currently have a lifter tick that comes and goes. I'm thinking of doing the afm/dod delete with the range device but also pulling the passenger side valve cover to check out things as that's where the tick is. Is it worth changing that valve cover if have it off or is that side problem free?
Thanks for any info ☺️
Thanks for the reply! Fortunately it is only the driver's side that needs replaced. If you've got lifter tick I highly recommend doing an oil treatment to try to loosen up any grime that may be stuck in the lifter. I usually add a but of seafoam into the crankcase oil before doing an oil change. Marvel's mystery oil is also good I hear but haven't used it. Follow instructions on the seafoam container when adding to engine oil, it will give you info on how much to add and also how many miles to drive with it in. Good luck and thanks for the kind comments!
Thanks! Yeah was planning on giving the seafoam treatment a go before next oil change. Will def change up the valve cover too, you made it seem pretty straightforward so I'm happy to go for it 👍
I have the same lifter tick sound in my 2011 Silverado. What did you end up doing ?
@@BigHomie030 for the tick, I run a range plug in. So it stays in V8 my mode. And I add some transmission fluid to my oil too. Has helped but not totally gone. Especially when it's cold.
Theres a lawsuit regarding this. Your 2011 may be covered. You'll have to look in to it
I have a 2013 tahoe ltz. I just did this. The valve cover I removed looks just like this “newer” version. The pcv valve was all clogged up. I am “using” about 3 quarts of oil every 2000 miles! A lot of oil consumption. It’s bullshit. So I took and got a new valve cover and changed it out brand new. So I’m due for an oil change now and I’m changing the oil today. So I’ll see if it fixes the oil consumption issue. If that’s not it’s it’ll be the damn variable displacement system….
Did it
@@cameronhoover7561 awesome. You should notice right away it will stop using oil. I also ended up getting the DOD system tuned out of the computer so that it won’t kick in. The funny thing is my mpg went up from 15 mpg to 16 mpg average.
Ima have to so the same
@@cameronhoover7561 did the valve cover swap work for you at all ?
Did you notice a change in the oil pressure gauge after the replacement? Maybe I'm just being paranoid but I just replaced my valve cover on an 09 sierra 1500 and it seems like the oil pressure gauge is more sensitive on acceleration & deceleration now. It idles around 40, drops to 30-35 on deceleration, and increases to 50-60 at acceleration which is normal from what I've read but I'd like hear what your experience was
Run a code reader through it. My oil pressure gauge was acting funny until I replaced the sensor, now it's back to factory
This is really helpful and seems very straightforward...except - can you explain real quick how to disable the AFM system to do this service? Man thank you so much I'm actually kind of excited to do this repair!
Oh never mind, I guess you don't have to disable it to do the service - you're just saying you've decided to disable it full time. Nevermind, if that's correct...
You are correct, and thank you for the kind comments. It's recommended to disable the AFM as well as doing this repair but you can do them separately. The device I use to disable the AFM is called the Range AFM Delete. It's a plug that inserts into the OBD port and deletes it. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop Do you have to leave the range in full time or is it a one-and-done deal? Reason I ask; I have a Pioneer system now that plugs into the OBD and I'd rather that plugged in than something that cuts out my AFM. I'm not terribly concerned with the AFM at this point, especially if I do this repair (is that fair to say?)
@@braddavis9780 unfortunately it needs to be plugged in all the time. I believe you can get custom tuners that will disable it permanently without it needing to be plugged in but the range delete kit is not one of those. Also, the range works by tricking some of the emissions sensors which keeps the truck in V8 mode and it works great but it also won't pass emissions until you unplug it and drive it around for a few miles.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop When you've got that cover off and before you place the new one on, is there any recommended cleaning that ought to be done before you place it on? All that oil on what's left - is that ok to just leave as-is and place the new cover on?
Did the truck smoke when cranking?
Hey bro thank you for the video. My wife’s 2007 suburban LTZ is burning about 2 quarts around 2,500 miles. Concerning the AFM delete how would I know if that is something included in this model? Where can I get the part to do this delete? Thanks
If it's burning that much oil, it's almost guaranteed to be from the AFM system. I got my AFM kit from Amazon. Good luck!
Why can't you just thoroughly clean the inside of the valve cover? Is it really necessary to replace it?
Great video!! What’s the part num or where you ordered I have 07 1500 new body style 4.8 thank you!! Awesome info
Ooh good question. I'm not sure as my engine is the 5.3. I usually find part numbers from Rock Auto. Thanks for watching!
I can't believe no mension of the engine size.
On my 2005, 3.5L I'm going to drill out my old valve cover as recomended by several videos. None of them mension the new valve cover showing a new square vent hole to the right of the old hole.
Hey Xinnkoda! Great video! I just noticed a problem today with my 08 Suburban. The oil pressure sensor went bad with 0 oil pressure on my gauge. Repaired that and went to check my oil just before I buttoned everything up and it barely registered on the stick. Just changed the oil and confirmed it was full in January. It took about a quart and a half to get it to full today. First question is how much oil were you losing? Because I know I have a leak but it is only drips on my floor. My buddy said there is no way I am losing that much from just that leak and feels it is the PCV valve. He found that it was a valve cover issue which your video helps me with. But did your truck always use oil or did it just start doing it. I very rarely check my oil. I typically get it serviced and even though it is 12 years old, it only has 86000 miles. I don't tend to check it because I guess I just take it for granted that there is no oil usage problem because of the low mileage and not seeing any tell-tale signs of smoke or smell of oil burning. So I don't really know how long this has been going on. Also, wanted to find out - you said you turned off the active fuel management. I have heard of engine problems being caused by this "feature" and would like to turn this off myself. My second question is how did you turn this off and can it be reversed if I have to trade it in eventually? Thanks again for the great video. I will probably take this on very soon.
Thanks for watching! My truck only had 88k when I bought it and it was using oil a decent amount. Your friend is correct about it likely not being from the small leak you found. There are a few things to do to help fix the issue... One of them is the PCV valve like I showed in the video and another is shutting off the active fuel management. The device to shut it off is made by Range and you can find them on Amazon. Just search for "Range AFM Deactivator" and that should pull up the results you need. After doing those two fixes my oil consumption went down drastically. I went from one Quart of oil every 1000 miles to about one Quart of oil every 5000 miles. In the worst cases, oil has gotten down into the piston rings and will not allow the rings to function properly. A dealership can attempt to free up the rings by putting a cleaner on the top end to clean them but I'm not sure how effective it is. I hope you caught this issue early enough so you can prevent the rings from going bad. Good luck!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop Thank you very much for the info. I will get on this as soon as I can. Looks like the device you are talking about to stop the active fuel management is about 200 bucks. Does that sound about right?
@@P-Dawg-01 yep. It's expensive but well worth it!
So this helps stop the leak in your spark plug?
Thanks a lot for you’re video Brother
Hopefully that was the issue you made it so much easier for me 👍🏻🤟🏻
Hi, i have chevy 2007 avalanche with new rings and valve seals. Still burning oil, is there a way to check if the valve cover is the issue before replacing it? Thsnks for your great video.
You can take off your intake and look inside your intake manifold just past the butterfly valve to see if there's a lot of oil. If the pcv valve is faulty, there will be a lot of oil sitting inside the manifold.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop took a look and there is some "glistening" reflection with indicates it may be oily, however, i would expect some oil there anyway right?
@@russellmaguire4316 Correct. It's normal to have a slight "film" of oil. What's not normal is to have puddles of oil inside the manifold. If that is normal for you, then you can try installing the AFM oil reflector. It's a piece that sits inside the oil pan and prevents oil from spraying and hitting the bottom of the pistons. GM lists it as a possible reason for the oil consumption in their TSB.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop thanks for the promot response. I would be alittle concerned that might cause piston overheating? I will go for the new valve cover and see. Also with the plug in AFM unit is there anything else i need?
@@russellmaguire4316 GM actually lists the oil deflector as a possible fix for the oil consumption. I wouldn't be too concerned about piston overheating if GM recommends it. If the valve cover or the oil deflector isn't the problem, the likely reason for oil consumption would be the oil control rings are plugged up with old oil. You can try running sea foam in the crankcase to see if that will loosen up the control rings. I usually do this the last 300 miles before I change the oil on my truck as it cleans out carbon buildup. Just use the instructions on the bottle of seafoam.
When I hear the word “epoxy” relating to car repairs, I immediately suspect BS. Can you alleviate this concern?
Tanks works great keep doing ur videos
Good video! Thanks for the help!
Thank you! Good luck!
Where did you buy valve cover?
@@williamhall5319 I bought it off of Rockauto. You just have to make sure it is the proper replacement. There are a few parts out there circulating around that have the original baffle design.
@@TheDadBodWorkshop yeah i got it from rock auto best deal around. Thanks
Hello thanks for the great info. I have an 07 avalanche with the 5.3 it smokes and it has trouble starting it idles low some times turns off can the rough idle be caused by the pvc valve?
That's a lot of symptoms it has. It could be pvc valve but over time if these engines consume a lot of oil then it can lead to a whole lot of other problems. Changing the pvc valve would certainly not hurt anything and it's not terribly expensive to try it out and see what issues it fixes. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the awesome video I have the same truck and it burns oil I’ll
Do this and thanks again
Thanks for supporting the channel! Good luck!
Great video! I have a question tho,should you buy a new PVC Tube as well or can you use the old one? Thanks!
No problem with reusing the tube unless you see a problem with it. Thanks for watching!
would you be so kind to give an update and let us know if this did fix the excessive oil consumption ?? Have youdone or had to do anything else to fix the problem ? Thank you
The oil consumption went down dramatically! I only had to top the oil off once between oil changes. This has improved since it used to use almost a two quarts between changes. Thanks for watching!
@@TheDadBodWorkshop i look at the RockAuto website and they have two one is branded at 111$ and non branded for 45$ I assume they are the same but which one you got? Thank you
I don't know what vehicle you have but for me the part number is Dorman 264965.
Do you need to disconnect battery first?
With it off are u supposed be able to blow air three the pcv
What about cleaning the other side. ( passenger side)
Great video, thanks!
Does this issue also cause a tick you can hear?
Lifter tick is caused by a bad o-ring on the oil pump pick up tube. The oil is airiated and not reaching the rear of the engine. Solution is to pull the oil pan and change the pan gasket and pick up tube o-ring where the pick up tube goes in to the oil pump.
This is probably pisted somewhere but want to know what is the difference between the original cover and the new style and can the pvc valve be replaced when needed on the new cover?
He shows both covers in the video. The older style has a circular hole, while newer one is square. Some people still have issues with square hole one, and will drill some drainage holes. This engine doesn’t have a real pcv valve it is just an orifice. You can test if oil is coming out of the pcv valve by just running a hose off it into a some type of container and driving around. Some people use these catch cans permanently, and they are sold as aftermarket product.
I'm suburban or yukon xl shopping. Was this oil problem into 2014 as well? I know they redesigned in 2015 but wasn't sure about the 5.3 in general if that was updated or not
It seems like around the 2012 year is when they didn't have the issue anymore. I'm not sure on the exact year as it seems to vary depending on who you talk to. Thanks for watching!
Would installing a catch can at the same time of the valve cover swap assist with the cold start up smoke?
Did you buy an updated hose with the nipple being at the top instead of the brim at the bottom? Because I can't get mine on it like needs a bigger or different one
Does the PCV valve come with the covers?
I'm wondering would a faulty pcv valve cause frothy oil? My trucks oil cap had a bit of froth and the oil sensor gives a code
I have 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3 only on cold start up a puff of smoke comes out then goes away not when I'm driving some days it does it and some it done I've had ppl tell me can be pcv on valve cover....would it be better to replace or just take off and clean it out anything helps I Haye the smoke on start up
There is no PCV valve on a LS motor only in 2003
Nice video sir.
How can you tell if it’s already been done? Are there any outside differences looking at it while it’s still on the truck? 2009 5.3 Silverado, Thanks!
Not that I'm aware of I'm afraid.
I have an 05 Silverado and my PCV Valve is on the Valve Cover like apart of it I think? It won't come out/budge. How in the world do I replace it??? I can take the rubber hose off of it easy but the valve itself won't budge out at all. I tried everything, please help.
Replacing it did it resolve the oil consumption just wondering since am leaning towards doing this on my 2002 Tahoe
It did work on my Chevy truck. Thanks for watching!
I checked oil levels but low against and fill oil against for 2013 gmc sierra 1500 5.3L V8
check crazed performance repair for how to repair your valve cover
So is this what fixes oil being used between oil changes cause my 12 gmc need about two courts by time of change. And you put a programmer on I heard and maybe you can tell me different but when you delete the 4 cyl shut off it could cause more problems with the lifters or whatever mechanism works that part? Any help would be great thanks.
FWIW: AFM can be overcome by driving in 3. Seems it only comes in when the torque converter locks up (2008 LC9)
Thanks for the video, battling oil consumption here and have covers to install. Did you use the gaskets included with the new cover? How are they holding up? Theres 2 styles listed, gm looks like a plastic multi layer design and im not sure which to use
What was the outcome on oil use after this? Any improvement?
is it always the drivers side that needs to be replaced or both? I am having blue smoke on startup but then goes away. thanks
The previous owner of my 08 Silverado changed the passenger side valve cover and now I’m changing the driver’s side. I think it makes sense to change both at the same time.
After you changed it did it smell like burnt oil? I just changed mine and ran the truck for a bit & It smelled like burnt oil after I changed the cover
I don't recall a burnt oil smell but oil can drip down from the valve cover and land on the exhaust manifold underneath. Maybe that's what happened?
@@TheDadBodWorkshop yea probably cus the smell went away after a day or so. Thanks!!
I added catch can for pcv valve. Afm also burns oil.
I've really considered adding a catch can. Can I ask which one you went with? On the AFM note, I added the Range AFM Disabler that plugs into the OBDII port which disables the truck from ever entering into V4 mode. Only downside is that I need to remove is a week before Emissions because it will cause the truck to fail. I think it disables a couple of the sensors and forces the truck to stay in V8 mode but I'm not sure...
@@TheDadBodWorkshop I use moroso but any sealed type catch can amazon works fine.
I have a 2011 5.3. I did the range afm disabled as well when the truck had 118k on it due to burning oil and the v4 mode being annoying. Since I installed the range device I don’t burn oil anymore and runs better on v8 all the time. Has 134k and still doing good. Should I still do this valve cover?
That is excellent news! If it were me I still would put the new valve cover on. The old design is prone to failure and at any point it could lead to ingestion of oil. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the response!
Do you have a parts listed anywhere?
According to GM if you have a truck built after February of 2011 you already have the updated valve cover.
I heard that as well. I haven't looked up other years but I know for my year there were a couple different fixes GM had for oil consumption. Another one was the oil diverter inside the oil pan. Thanks for watching!
My 2014 Tahoe had the old cover. GM must be trying to use up old parts. It did have the oil pan fix though. Dont assume GM does the right thing.
@@mattaverill6942 That's strange, my 2012 Silverado had the updated one. I drilled the holes and I'm 1200 miles on the repair, we'll see if that stops my oil consumption.
Did you have P219A DTC?
Can anyone share where to get the cover for this ? Part numbers ? Where to order ?