I use one of Wray’s shrinking disks and a slapper. It does do a nice job. But Wray makes it look so so easy! Takes a lot of practice to get anywhere near his expertise. Wray is a great teacher and inventor!
Ive had one of these discs for around 8 yrs now, they should come with a warning “once you learn this craft, its highly addictive “ Keep the videos coming Wray
In my first set of comments I forgot to mention what a great video it shows how to repair things without filling holes with muck. Thank you. Remember, metal is clay.
Another fantastic video, Wray. I never believed I would tackle a restoration project before I found your channel, but I'm determined to do one now. All your videos are fanastic, but the resto ones are definitely my favourites.
I just got my first pairs of shrinking disc ,and very proud to own an item that is being developed by such eminence, I feel like Captain America now 💪.
Hi Wray, loving your videos, you break body repair/restoration down into achievable steps that gives me the confidence to practice with. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.
Hey Wray, wanted to throw a quick "thank you" for all the in-depth content you've been putting up Have a Harley Sportster project that's gone a few thousand over the projected budget (typical race vehicle deal); had a rear fender with some major cracks. No $ left for a new fender: time to 'run what ya brung'. Fired the oxy hot wrench; welded the cracks. Planished then ground the beads. Remembered "metal is clay", used hammer and dolly to push the metal where I wanted it. Got it smooth, shot a couple costs of primer; gonna block it tomorrow, hit it with color, and get ready to 'send it' at the track later this month. Really want to catch one of your workshops once the wallet recovers from building the garage and race bike within this last year... if I can learn this much from some videos, I expect getting "hands-on" training is gonna be AWESOME
Great video! Quick question, when using the slapper are you hitting in the center of the dent and pushing up or are you hitting on the edge of the dent and pushing up? A quick video explaining how to use the slapper correctly would be a fantastic video for your collection. Keep up the fabulous work.
In the very early 60s when magic markers first came on the market they were in a glass bottle with a metal lid and metal cap, the wick was called a nib and they felt piece inside was called a kapok. I worked at the company that was changing the magic marker from a glass bottle to an aluminum tube. Obviously the ink came in gallons or 5 gallon pails, if you were to look into that that might be helpful rather than buying individual markers. Whether it is helpful or not you will have to investigate. The original company was called speed dry chemical products, from Ozone Park N.Y.
One of my subscribers just recently told me about a company called Coversall that makes a refillable 2" wide magic marker. I bought one. When I get it I will do a video on it.
@@proshaper We use the magnum sharpie in our shop, they are expensive. When I see you putting it on the metal I can see money coming out of the end of that marker. I will look forward to a video on the refillable unit. Thanks for replying.
@@proshaper It looks like a company called ChartPak Inc. in Leeds Massachusetts is the manufacturer. Perhaps a new type of use for this marker might be something they will help you with with respect to samples and a TH-cam video on your part. I hope you pursue it thanks.
Hi Wray. Would it be a good idea if you worked on both steel and aluminium panels to have a shrinking disc for each material so as to not cross contaminate surfaces? Thanks for working late and presenting seriously good material. John
Hi Wray. Another excellent video. When you’re tapping with the slapper, are you hitting on-dolly, it sounds like it. Also, are you hitting in the center of the lows or around the perimeter of the lows to bring them up? Are you pressing up with the dolly? Thanks!
Hi Paul, the 9" disc should e used with a 9" grinder. Most 9" grinders turn between 4500 to 6500 rpm with no load on them. The 5" disc will work on any 4.5" or 5" grinder. Most grinders of the size turn 8000 to 13000 rpm with no load.
Paint removal with an aircraft gel type paint stripper works the best. Check out my video on removing paint. here is the link to my TH-cam channel homepage where you will find 195 of my videos. www.youtube,com/c/proshaper
I have six VWs. The hoods always get rippley and are a nightmare to straighten out. Supers have brace at the back and a dolly is useless. These discs look like worth to try.
Hi Wray. Have you given any thought on selling the hub and nut adapter for the shrinking disc. I had to replace one of my grinders and the new nut sits above the disc surface. I have two grinders and they both have this issue. Thanks.
Are you using the dolly in the center of the low spot and hammering the highs , or pushing up on the dolly and hammering the little spot where the dolly is contacting? Thanks , Ben
The dolly is the fulcrum the slapper is the lever. You need to try it just like I did in the video to fully understand how it works. I have a video on how to make the steel slapper. See my TH-cam homepage th-cam.com/users/proshaper There are 195 information packed free videos there.
@@proshaper Hi, I’ve been trying to metal finish my work the last year. Body tech production for 15 , never perfect with out mud. It’s very exhausting. Hap slapping and seeing no results .
Yes, it can but it will leave scratches. I no longer use them on aluminum because of that. The scratches can be sanded out, and you can reduce the scratching by using magic marker as a lubricant. I use a torch and one of my shot filled hand bags on aluminum. I have a video showing the process.
@@proshaper thanks Wray! I will look into the torch torch technique. I have seen you doing it on aluminum, but am scared I would cause damage. I would like to fix a small dent in my airplane and don’t want to make a mess of it. I will have to practice a bunch I guess. Why a shot bag instead of a dolly?
Raising lows by on-dolly slapping/hammering works great, but I can't explain why! It's counterintuitive that hammering or slapping on-dolly in a low area would raise the low area. The low area is stretched as the result of some accident, and hammer/slapper on-dolly only stretches it further! I'd think that we'd end up with more stretching after the on-dolly work? Perhaps that is exactly what happens, which is why we follow up by shrinking with the shrinking disk?
As I think more about this, raising the lows by slapping on-dolly is just like driving a dent up from below with a dolly. We stretch the stretched area up, then shrink it.
We used aircraft paint remover, steel wool and lacquer thinner. We followed up with naval jelly to remove the rust that was under the paint. Watch my other video on removing paint and why you don't want to sandblast collector car panels. My TH-cam homepage th-cam.com/users/proshaper
If you are bringing the lows up, at first the dolly doesn't hit, only when you see the footprints that is when the dolly and slapper are hitting. The general rule is : dolly on causes area addition*( the surface area grows by thinning the metal) and smoothing. Dolly off causes the arrangement of the metal to change ( dolly off is bending or moving the position of the metal with no stretching or thinning of the metal) Dolly off rough smooths an area. You need fast light dolly/slapper on to smooth or planish n surface.
A 7 " grinder will work but the 9" is better. You need a grinder not a sander /polisher. Grinders turn 4500 to 6500 RPM with no load. I use a Makita 9" , Home depot sells them for $189.00.
Hi Dave, galling when using a shrinking disc is caused by not using the magic marker as the lubricant. When you see galling happen usually you will also see sparks flying. If you see sparks you are using the disc without adequate lubrication. The disc after it wears in will build up a scum layer of magic marker on it's working surface. That marker build up is a good thing. If you see galling you have to clean the shrinking disc working surface face with 80 grit sandpaper. Run the disc face up on a bench and carefully sand the face of the disc, this will remove the galled metal build up on the disc.
Milwaukee makes the best markers but I've never used a wide one like that. How come Milwaukee beats the pants off Sharpie? I tend to use the fine point Milwaukee marker. I don't do body work so which type I personally use probably doesn't make any difference. I'm simply saying that the quality of the marker is better than the others.
To be a good body man you must learn how to use the surface of your hand and good quality hammer and dolly. there's no big or micro dent will hid from me. The flat feeling of your hand runing over sheet metal At normal Room temperature and the molecules are settled The results are%100. No grinding and thinning of the metal just (120 grit DA)to remove paint/ primers.
I use one of Wray’s shrinking disks and a slapper. It does do a nice job. But Wray makes it look so so easy! Takes a lot of practice to get anywhere near his expertise. Wray is a great teacher and inventor!
Ive had one of these discs for around 8 yrs now, they should come with a warning “once you learn this craft, its highly addictive “
Keep the videos coming Wray
Wray, a Metal Magician, I can watch you work your wonders for hours. Thank you.
You make shrinking look so easy; a master at work. Thanks Wray.
In my first set of comments I forgot to mention what a great video it shows how to repair things without filling holes with muck. Thank you. Remember, metal is clay.
Nicely done tutorial. Fixed it right in front of our eyes.
G'day from OZ....I just bought your 9" shrinking disc and backing pad after watching this video. Really looking forward to putting it to use!
Thanks! Gavin make sure you watch my other shrinking disc videos . I have 195 videos on my TH-cam channel. th-cam.com/users/proshaper
Another fantastic video, Wray. I never believed I would tackle a restoration project before I found your channel, but I'm determined to do one now. All your videos are fanastic, but the resto ones are definitely my favourites.
Thank you so much Wray from Australia awesome tutorial 👍I’m going to give it a go. I’ll take it slow.
I just got my first pairs of shrinking disc ,and very proud to own an item that is being developed by such eminence, I feel like Captain America now 💪.
What a coincidence. I just bought a 1970 VW Bug yesterday. Keep these great videos coming. Happy Easter.
WOW that shrinking disk works excellent 👍
Hi Wray, loving your videos, you break body repair/restoration down into achievable steps that gives me the confidence to practice with. Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.
Hey Wray, wanted to throw a quick "thank you" for all the in-depth content you've been putting up
Have a Harley Sportster project that's gone a few thousand over the projected budget (typical race vehicle deal); had a rear fender with some major cracks.
No $ left for a new fender: time to 'run what ya brung'. Fired the oxy hot wrench; welded the cracks. Planished then ground the beads. Remembered "metal is clay", used hammer and dolly to push the metal where I wanted it.
Got it smooth, shot a couple costs of primer; gonna block it tomorrow, hit it with color, and get ready to 'send it' at the track later this month.
Really want to catch one of your workshops once the wallet recovers from building the garage and race bike within this last year... if I can learn this much from some videos, I expect getting "hands-on" training is gonna be AWESOME
Hope to see you at a class soon. Thanks, Wray
This is some excellent skills here!
Excelent tuition again Wray.
Thanks so much.
Amazing technique and skill!
Hey right on Wray! Your videos are very helpful!!
Awesome, How you can take out those dents.
Thank You.
Thanks Wray, that’s a excellent video. I look forward to using my pro shaper shrinking disc once I can mount it to my European grinder.
On my website you will find pictures where I sell my shrinking discs of how to properly mount the disc.
As always Great info & instruction. Thank you for posting.
Great video! Quick question, when using the slapper are you hitting in the center of the dent and pushing up or are you hitting on the edge of the dent and pushing up? A quick video explaining how to use the slapper correctly would be a fantastic video for your collection. Keep up the fabulous work.
In the very early 60s when magic markers first came on the market they were in a glass bottle with a metal lid and metal cap, the wick was called a nib and they felt piece inside was called a kapok. I worked at the company that was changing the magic marker from a glass bottle to an aluminum tube. Obviously the ink came in gallons or 5 gallon pails, if you were to look into that that might be helpful rather than buying individual markers. Whether it is helpful or not you will have to investigate. The original company was called speed dry chemical products, from Ozone Park N.Y.
One of my subscribers just recently told me about a company called Coversall that makes a refillable 2" wide magic marker. I bought one. When I get it I will do a video on it.
@@proshaper
We use the magnum sharpie in our shop, they are expensive. When I see you putting it on the metal I can see money coming out of the end of that marker. I will look forward to a video on the refillable unit. Thanks for replying.
@@proshaper
It looks like a company called ChartPak Inc. in Leeds Massachusetts is the manufacturer.
Perhaps a new type of use for this marker might be something they will help you with with respect to samples and a TH-cam video on your part. I hope you pursue it thanks.
Always a joy to watch.
Hi Wray. Would it be a good idea if you worked on both steel and aluminium panels to have a shrinking disc for each material so as to not cross contaminate surfaces? Thanks for working late and presenting seriously good material. John
I no longer use my shrinking discs on aluminum. See my video on taking dents out in aluminum. th-cam.com/users/proshaper
Hi Wray. Another excellent video. When you’re tapping with the slapper, are you hitting on-dolly, it sounds like it. Also, are you hitting in the center of the lows or around the perimeter of the lows to bring them up? Are you pressing up with the dolly? Thanks!
At first the slapper hits move the metal (arrangement)when they ring the dolly (adding area). I always hit the center of the low and bring it up.
@@proshaper Thank you!
Brilliant!
That's amazing Wray , Thanks
Awesome videos.
Hi Wray what is the optimum rpm for both disc sizes you sell. Thanks
Hi Paul, the 9" disc should e used with a 9" grinder. Most 9" grinders turn between 4500 to 6500 rpm with no load on them. The 5" disc will work on any 4.5" or 5" grinder. Most grinders of the size turn 8000 to 13000 rpm with no load.
Any tips for removing those dents in panels where the back side is not accessible?
I plan to do a video on that keep watching. That is a very common problem
How you strip paint off? Witch is best/easiest way?
Sandbasting strech metal, but soda maybe not..
Paint removal with an aircraft gel type paint stripper works the best. Check out my video on removing paint. here is the link to my TH-cam channel homepage where you will find 195 of my videos. www.youtube,com/c/proshaper
I have six VWs. The hoods always get rippley and are a nightmare to straighten out. Supers have brace at the back and a dolly is useless. These discs look like worth to try.
You can often times slide a thin slapper under a brace to help with the dent removal.
I'm sold!
Thanks wray from kelowna bc canada👍
Question can you do demo on making lovers for the Volkswagen?
Louvers on the hood?
@@proshaper No on the back engine lid above there are louvers, they are long and slender. Need to make them 1956 oval window.
Hi Wray. Have you given any thought on selling the hub and nut adapter for the shrinking disc. I had to replace one of my grinders and the new nut sits above the disc surface. I have two grinders and they both have this issue. Thanks.
HI Nathan, yes, I have been super busy of late I have all of the stock and means to do it, I have to find the time.
Nice work. #STAYSAFE
You mentioned that the metal has to be free of paint to use the shrinking disc. Does that include if the other (back) side has primer?
Best to be totally paint free, but the backside still having paint or primer is not a big deal.
@@proshaper Thank you!
Are you using the dolly in the center of the low spot and hammering the highs , or pushing up on the dolly and hammering the little spot where the dolly is contacting?
Thanks , Ben
The dolly is the fulcrum the slapper is the lever. You need to try it just like I did in the video to fully understand how it works. I have a video on how to make the steel slapper. See
my TH-cam homepage th-cam.com/users/proshaper There are 195 information packed free videos there.
@@proshaper
Hi,
I’ve been trying to metal finish my work the last year. Body tech production for 15 , never perfect with out mud. It’s very exhausting. Hap slapping and seeing no results .
Can a shrinking disk be used on thin aluminum? 20 thousandths 6061-T6?
Yes, it can but it will leave scratches. I no longer use them on aluminum because of that. The scratches can be sanded out, and you can reduce the scratching by using magic marker as a lubricant. I use a torch and one of my shot filled hand bags on aluminum. I have a video showing the process.
@@proshaper thanks Wray! I will look into the torch torch technique. I have seen you doing it on aluminum, but am scared I would cause damage. I would like to fix a small dent in my airplane and don’t want to make a mess of it. I will have to practice a bunch I guess. Why a shot bag instead of a dolly?
Raising lows by on-dolly slapping/hammering works great, but I can't explain why! It's counterintuitive that hammering or slapping on-dolly in a low area would raise the low area. The low area is stretched as the result of some accident, and hammer/slapper on-dolly only stretches it further! I'd think that we'd end up with more stretching after the on-dolly work? Perhaps that is exactly what happens, which is why we follow up by shrinking with the shrinking disk?
As I think more about this, raising the lows by slapping on-dolly is just like driving a dent up from below with a dolly. We stretch the stretched area up, then shrink it.
Great video
How'd you take off the paint without damaging the metal?
He recently did a video on paint stripping. Check the playlists.
@@angusmackay7281 thanks
We used aircraft paint remover, steel wool and lacquer thinner. We followed up with naval jelly to remove the rust that was under the paint. Watch my other video on removing paint and why you don't want to sandblast collector car panels. My TH-cam homepage th-cam.com/users/proshaper
@@proshaper thank you
wish i could BUY a slapper like that! i don't really have means to make one.
given enough time, can you shrink a bug down into a 356?
Yes, I do it all the time.
@@proshaper This would have been great info to have 30 years ago when beetles could be bought all day long for $500! LOL
Wray I purchased the 9” disc, but when do you use the smaller disc’s ?
I use the smaller disc only about 10 percent of the time.It works great in small areas that the 9" disc can't get into.
@@proshaper thanks Wray will be using your 9” on an E bonnet soon !
Were you using the slapper on dolly or off dolly?
Thanks
If you are bringing the lows up, at first the dolly doesn't hit, only when you see the footprints that is when the dolly and slapper are hitting. The general rule is : dolly on causes area addition*( the surface area grows by thinning the metal) and smoothing. Dolly off causes the arrangement of the metal to change ( dolly off is bending or moving the position of the metal with no stretching or thinning of the metal) Dolly off rough smooths an area. You need fast light dolly/slapper on to smooth or planish n surface.
What size grinder do u need for the 9" shrinking disc?
A 7 " grinder will work but the 9" is better. You need a grinder not a sander /polisher. Grinders turn 4500 to 6500 RPM with no load. I use a Makita 9" , Home depot sells them for $189.00.
I have some galling. How do I remove the galling?
Hi Dave, galling when using a shrinking disc is caused by not using the magic marker as the lubricant. When you see galling happen usually you will also see sparks flying. If you see sparks you are using the disc without adequate lubrication. The disc after it wears in will build up a scum layer of magic marker on it's working surface. That marker build up is a good thing. If you see galling you have to clean the shrinking disc working surface face with 80 grit sandpaper. Run the disc face up on a bench and carefully sand the face of the disc, this will remove the galled metal build up on the disc.
Milwaukee makes the best markers but I've never used a wide one like that. How come Milwaukee beats the pants off Sharpie?
I tend to use the fine point Milwaukee marker. I don't do body work so which type I personally use probably doesn't make any difference.
I'm simply saying that the quality of the marker is better than the others.
can one use the shrinking disk on aluminium ?
Yes, but it does scratch it. I have another video on my TH-cam channel about how to take out dents in aluminum. see th-cam.com/users/proshaper
@@proshaper ok thank you. You meant this one I suppose th-cam.com/video/hu18rOUJYXI/w-d-xo.html
@@proshaper have you tried or heard about the wooden shrinking disc on aluminium ?
Спосибо за науку
I’m confused on how stretching raises the low.. ughhh lost and confused
👍👏👏
Looks like it hit Mickey Mouse
To be a good body man you must learn how to use the surface of your hand and good quality hammer and dolly. there's no big or micro dent will hid from me. The flat feeling of your hand runing over sheet metal At normal Room temperature and the molecules are settled The results are%100.
No grinding and thinning of the metal just (120 grit DA)to remove paint/ primers.
Kinda looks like the VW ran over Mickey Mouse!
#raffehdecor