BMW R1100 and R1150 Clutch Replacement EASY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2025
- This is the easiest, quickest, NO BS straight to the point DIY tutorial on TH-cam hand down, this procedure can be translated over to most R1100, R1150 and R850 models including the R RT GS RS and even the r1100S models.
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OMG you couldn't have posted the video at a better time than this!!!! Thank you soooooooooo much!!
I only have one question; A lot of people in the forums (including the mighty "Steptoe") say that you can take off the transimission and final drive off as one piece. What do you think about that? (is it easier, tougher, more complicated etc.)
I’m sure you can but it would be super awkward aligning the splines with a swingarm and rear drive hanging off the trans
@@vibe.shuffle ﾊﾎﾊﾎﾊﾎﾎﾊﾌﾋﾌﾊﾊﾌﾊﾌﾊﾌﾋﾌﾎﾋ?ﾎﾌﾋははふふるふ？ひははふほはほへへひほへふふ？ひふはほふふ？はふふふははふはほひ？ひふは？ふほるひるふ
i work at a bmw motorcycle shop in the summers and what we do for the clutches on these bikes is take the transmission and swingarm out in one piece, if you put the whole assembly on a cart is quite easy to do.
also then you dont have to deal with swingarm pivot points that are hard to remove becouse of the factory locktight
thats incredibly easy
Thank you!!! Less than one month of weekend work and I have replaced the clutch and put my beauty back together!! ‘96 BMW R1100R
Plenty of hiccups along the way but we got through it and this video was a huge help!!!
How do you keep track of all the different things over time? I would forget what goes where
@@rabitoblanco I set everything to the side… screws in the holes they came from… and it all comes back together when he puts it back together in the video
you can leave the entire rear drive together, wheel and all as a unit when doing this job to minimize the amount you have to disassemble.
Really clean and easy video. Though still can't believe I'll need to almost completely reduce in pieces my whole RT, to just replace a single piece, the clutch disc.
Nice class! I have gotten to learn more and more about the RT models after tearing it apart through Trial & Error. Riding into the highway for days, and breaking down, hence, I love them even more. I am now in the pathway of going to school for it (MMI Arizona) Thanks man.
Salutes from San Diego California 🏍️🛣️✌🏻
Thanks for a great video! I am going to overhaul my clutch next winter and this video will be a great help.
thanks ALOT! this is what keeps this channel alive
Have you got rid of the junk bike now
Years ago I change the clutch on my R100… this is crazy.😊 Excellent video by the way
As for special tool to align clutch with gear box shaft, for those who don't have it, there is a way to do it. First align clutch with clutch housing using push rod and matching new clutch disk, inside diameter socket wrench, I think size 13. Align whole set as well as you can, Finger-tight clutch set bolts to clutch housing. With someones help, gently try to fit gearbox to clutch, with push rod in gear box. If you can easy place gear box in position, use few bolts to secure gear box to engine. Now take off plastic front cover of engine (when alternator is) and crank the engine slowly (bottom bolt). This way you turn also clutch. Few turns to align it properly. Now you can tighten up clutch set bolts in cross pastern. Bolts are accessible through starter cutout.
I recommend to get proper tool .
I replaced my clutch on my 1100 s and it does seem a little overwhelming at times, but just take it a step at a time and you’ll get it.😅
Congrats!! Just finished mine last week
Much as I would love a R1150r, this is the most complex and I'm guessing " hugely expensive" job to have done by a bike mechanic and a massively complex job for a home mechanic.. I think I'll avoid buying and look at other offerings from Japanese and British Manufacturers.Thank you for highlighting this before I made an expensive mistake!
Agreed...a yamaha FJR or Honda ST/PAN-EUROPEN would serve just as well
But with these sports tour machines we all have to deal with the extra plastic removal (sad annoyance)
You're right! I have an 97 r850r (similar). The only BMW dealer in the area said, "We don't service bikes older than 2010!
Basically they do warranty repair bull crap. I bet most BMW clutches don't wear out by the time that happens.
I'm about 10 hours into this and it took me all winter
@@FEETLE speaking from experience here, the ST1300 is kind of a bitch as well...
I have heard that the clutch slave cylinder replacement on an ST1300 books at 18 hours. I guess that someone has devised a way that doesn’t involve removing the engine. All bikes seem to have expensive and complex repairs. Unfortunately, clutch and transmission replacement is going to be very expensive.
@@alanhassall people knock Harley Davidsons, but they are pretty simple to work on.
That is the one thing I haven't done yet to my 2004 1150RT. Hope never will have to...
Excellent video, did you have the o ring missing on the right hand throttle body? Thanks for the effort and taking the time to share your knowledge
Super easy! (YIKES!) 😵💫 Amazing video though. You’ve definitely done twice once or twice. Not sure how many extra bolts I’d have after trying to tackle this job. This guide would definitely increase my chances of success. Thank you!
Excellent Video! How many miles were on this bike when the shaft failed? What tends to cause this failure? It it common?
This is not a criticism, alternatively informational for others that are doing this.
The Paralever pivot bolts (the ones that were mentioned not to impact) will come out with ZERO problem if you heat the center of the bolt to about 160* F. I have found this to be true in all cases of R11XX series bikes. Impact will work of course, but if you don't heat and take care, you will run the risk of completely destroying the transmission case or intermediate housing.
It's not a "rare" thing to ruin them.
Heating them with a torch will completely remove the risk of ruining the threads and make removal simple AF.
**** For future viewers that have issues with the clutch travel after reassembly . ****
In December of 1997 BMW upgraded the clutch from Part number 2121330322.02 to 21212330385
The diaphragm spring the pressure plates and the flywheel where supposed to be changed at the time of next service.
FACTS: the updated disk is 2mm thicker and the spring is .5mm thicker. no other changes were made except you don't need to stagger the parts 120* anymore.
(who cares right?)
If you cannot get clutch travel after reassembly where prior to teardown everything worked... The aftermarket clutch disks sold on aftermarket websites are garbage and too thick.
Only purchase SACHS or high end parts for this job. Anything else will simply not fit right and cause no clutch adjustment possible.
It will fee like you're missing a part of the pushrod or something. There will be no clutch travel and you will risk breaking the clutch arm (cable versions)
Stick with bmwpartsguy.com/ for anything you can, but they don't currently have the clutch packs. I searched for a video like this for weeks with only the Chris H video to muddle through and today it says 20 hours ago. LMFAO.
I forgot to update my site with parts. Haha thanks for reminding me, I’ll link all the parts in the description.
Yes, at 160 degrees, the locktite from the factory becomes liquid again.
yea he did not use heat at all and he did not mess up anything...brilliant huh
@@SaintsPurgatory You chose to read the words you read and not the others. Go back and start over. Be better.
@@SaintsPurgatory th-cam.com/video/s4hBd3kEIwY/w-d-xo.html
I´m speechless... What a great video of a nicely done work!!
Thanks If my clutch fails I will leave a job like this to the professionals, I'd just cause myself a world of hurt atempting this job
Pure quality. Excellent filming. Thank you 🙏
Wouldn’t have bought the bike without this video.. or I would’ve but wouldn’t have realized how hard a clutch would be to do). Put the new one in today!! Just got to put everything back together now
What an awesome video, well done! Thanks for sharing your amazing and very useful knowledge! 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming!
Great job. I´m amazed how dirty those bikes are, man, I own an 98´ R850RT , and every time I do some maintenance that require to take the fairings away, I spend some time cleaning under them.
Be aware that the Paralever pins have red loctite, you can strip the threads if you use air tools or a wrench without heating them up.
Nice! Man, this is so useful. These bikes are made to be worked on DIY style. Thanks for this video, I'm always doing my own work on the 1150 GS, this is going to come in handy soon no doubt.
I was watching because I'm considering buying a BMW as well and I wanted to see how difficult a clutch job would be if ever needed. It seems that nearly every part has to be removed to replace the clutch, or remove the air box, or God forbid, bleed the clutch slave cylinder! You, sir, are apparently on a different level of DIY than me! Kudos to you, and The BMW Guy.
Le tengo que dar gracias infinitas, porque gracias a usted por colgar éste vídeo, he podido cambiar el embrague yo sólo en casa, cosa que hubiera sido totalmente imposible sin la ayuda de éste vídeo suyo. Mil gracias.
How did you get by without using the cut out (30mm?) BMW tool socket for the bearing studs on both the final drive to swingarm and swingarm bearing to the frame?
How long did this take you? Do you recommend changing the rear main seal? when doing transmision? Also if trans splines are damaged can you replace output shaft rather than trans?
Did this clutch system die with the 1150? Was the clutch relocated forward with access behind the front wheel on all 1200 and 1250 bikes?
I'll be replacing the clutch in a couple weeks on my 2006 1150 GS Adv. Thx!
I didn’t notice if you phased the drive shaft. Lots of controversy about whether that needs to be done or not.
What do you think?
9:05 shouldn’t one use heat for the “lock tight” stuff on there from the factory?
Great video!!
Thank you for an excellent video. This same thing happend to me last week. It is helpfull to see what I have waiting for me in combination with the 40k service.
Thank you for such a detailed video. Didn't know this one had dry clutch!
I had my clutch and slave cylinder done some 45000 kilometres ago, and I still think it is pretty ridiculous to have to take half your bike apart in order to put another clutch in it. LOL!
that's why it's called BMW . . ."Bring More Wallet" Guaranteed money maker for the repair shops
Good video concept. As a suggestion for the r1150 series, maybe you can do a finaldrive rebuild. With the paralever bearings. Then the you have addressed all the problem areas of the 1150 I believe. (Maybe the abs2 voltage drop mod)
Great suggestion!
Very nice detail and comprehensive instructions easy to follow. Glad I own the r11.50 and the r1100s, less plastic and bs2 remove. 🙏🙏
Agreed that extra Tupperware most likely make this procedure less enjoyable
Did the new clutch disc have the longer hub to better match the spline length? if not why not use those types? if it did and I missed it sorry bout that
yes it did
That is a lovely video, from start to finish everthing is showed, thank you . 👏👏👏👏
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Man I’m glad I’m seeing this.
I have a 99 r1100s that’s having some rattling issues when it’s in neutral. It might be a clutch
I don’t know.
How often do you have to deal with worn clutch vs damaged input shaft?
Wow! It was like magic! Great work
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Thank you for the great content. When installing the rear drive, are you concerned about “clocking” the universals of the driveshaft to avoid vibration?
I wish I saw this a year plus ago when my pump went down and the I had to get the bike to the dealer to get it changed - this will have save me quite a few $$$
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SAYING TORQU AND BOLT SIZE 🙏🙏
Great video!! 👍 Do a r1200 GSA (K25) clutch next?? 😜
Coming soon! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming!
Excellent video! I was told to put the spline lube only on the male side so as not to push lube into the clutch area. Gotta do my 1150GS. clutch slips under heavy load in 6th. 30k miles. Hope it isn't oil from seals!!!!
The clutch diaphragm spring is supposed to get special grease applied on the outer edge where it contacts the clutch housing, and also where it contacts the back of the pressure plate. You’re also supposed to use the same grease on the clutch disk and transmission splines. BMW calls for Optimoly MP3 paste, which is a very thick white paste that won’t migrate onto the clutch plates and disk, but is hard to find now. A BMW approved substitute is Kluber Lubrication Starburags NBU 30 paste. It’s nearly identical to the Optimoly, but can be bought off of Amazon.
You don’t want to use Honda Moly paste on those locations in the clutch assembly as it is too thin and will fling outward onto the clutch plates. It’s fine to use the Honda Moly on the driveshaft splines though.
Edit- also you forgot to mention anything about aligning the two halves of the driveshaft for proper phasing, when you put the final drive back in. It’s not mentioned in the factory service manual either, but it should reduce driveline vibration and can’t hurt to get it as close to aligned as possible. You want the open yokes at each end of the driveshaft to be in as close to the same orientation as possible.
I just recently had to do all of this on my 2000 K1200RS, which has a similar configuration. Huge amount of work, but if you’re going to go through all the effort to do the job, you want to do it right the first time.
Would Love to see F750 Gs videos. Thanks 🇺🇸👍🏼
Coming soon! If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming!
What a thorough and concise tutorial
Great video, man. Really appreciate it. Question for you: if the intent is to replace clutch only does it make sense to remove the final drive and tranny all together as once piece? My final drive assy just got serviced 20k ago so not really interested in pulling apart unless I need to.
Very well-produced and presented,
thanks
Good video. I am prepping to do this on a '01 1150GS. Is there a major difference when dealing with a ABS-equipped bike or is the ABS block not a hangup point?
no, pretty straight foward
I would like to see a video about changing the high beam lights over to LED on a 2018 K1600B
Another excellent video. If I end up doing this job, you've definitely got a paypal tip coming your way!
Awesome, thank you!
What a great job/video etc. Well done. Awesome.
Thanks, if you are feeling generous pleas consider joining my channel
I might be doing this over the holidays (I hope not... I have some other things I really want to do...) QQ - I picked up this bike that had been setting for 3 years. The HES got chewed up by part of the alt belt and owner traded it for some other work... I would ASSUME everything else was taken care of (all fluids looked good (even though I flushed and replaced them) - and I drained the old gas (varsoline) and flushed the tank and replaced the pump and filter in the tank. She sounds BEAUTIFUL again (only 98000 miles) - my other bike has 199000 (was hoping to roll it in 2023, but temps here are too cold to ride comfortably).
It runs great in "N" - but if I put it in "1" it does not seem that the clutch is disengaging. It is a 2003 R1150RT with hydraulic clutch. I have flushed and blead all the air out (both top down - as back pressure blead). Clutch FEELS like it is doing it's thing (a little motion in the handle then pressure like it is pushing...) - but stalls if I drop it in 1st. If I bump the starter in 1st (with clutch in) it does not feel like it has ANY slip. Is it possible to have the plate and friction plate frozen? Is there a way to release it? (thought about putting it in 5th and pulling it with a car with the clutch in....). But you might have an idea that might be easier....
Thanks! Happy Holidays!!!
hi,if I just remove the gearbox from the engine, isn't that good?
Great! Thank you so much, is the procedure similar to a K100RS?
Nope, totally different.
Very impressive. How many hours would you charge for this job?
If doing the rear main behind the flywheel is there anything of note to be careful of? I'm going to be replacing the clutch assembly and flywheel on my 1150 in the next month or so as a failed started smoked my flywheel. But I figure if I'm going that deep I might as well doing any PM work at that level or higher.
buy your parts from bmwpartsguy.com and i will help you every step of the way
What is the tool you are using? Thanks
Great video! May wanna replace that rear tire, lol.
If the transmission is good is it possible to just replace the input shaft that goes through the transmission along with the clutch?
Yes, but not cost effective
This lays out steps well, but I could imagine one buying a new clutch plate, starting this process, then realizing they may need a new transmission, clutch alignment tool, maybe some additional tools they lack before being able to do the work. A parts/tools list in the description might prevent this confusion for people who would prefer not to pay for 6 rounds of shipping.
Hi and thank you for a great video! I have two questions and one observation. Question 1: I am going to overhaul my clutch. I have a new disk with longer splines, new bolts and alignment tool. What else should I purchase, given that everything is in good condition? Pressure plate? Something else? Question 2: My bike is a 2003 R1150RT. Is my clutch balanced in all positions, or do I have to mark it when I dismantle it? This was critical in my airheads. Observation: I noticed that you did not address the importance of phasing the driveshaft on assembly. It is probably wise to put a mark on both halves on disassembly and check if it’s in phase while it’s out. If it is, you can use the same marks on assembly.
you should also buy some spline grease and replacing the slave cylinder is a good idea, maybe even the main seal if you want to do some preventive maintenance. you do not need to mark your clutch as it is not balanced as an assembly and yes phasing the driveshaft is important.. I like to just put it in the same way I removed it.
I recently just bought a K1200R and knew that I had to replace the clutch plates but when I opened it up the pushrod inside is stuck. What do I do? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
Hello, I'm a subscriber to your channel and I'm always watching well. I own a r1150r and I'm having a problem recently so I'm trying to fix it. The recent problem is that the noise of the engine has increased. When I checked for problems that could cause the problem, the cam chain guide rail was damaged. So I need to remove the broken parts and replace them with a new one, but I can't find them on your channel. I wonder if you have any content to produce or upload.
i have content, still need to edit and upload
Should the final drive move when the bike is in neutral?? Just installed mine and it only moves the amount of play..
11:15 , nice touch 😂
21:03 You got the same as me, 'Sachs' and no color markings.
So basically assemble and screw the thing on, right?
the 'drillings' are the balancing stuff.
What are the early symptoms of clutch failing? Can you tell in the garage? on a test ride?
If the throttle response is off.. applying throttle.. rpm’s go up but bike doesn’t get faster or is sluggish despite climbing RPMs. Just finished replacing mine today, good luck!!!
YES! put the bike in top gear, 5th or 6th and let it chug then do a FULL THROTTLE pull up to 70-80mph, this will apply MAX torque and if the clutch slips its failing. you will feel and hear the RPM's increase and the speed stays the the same. you will also smell it
The vaunted mission to replace a clutch on an oilhead done in only 45 minutes?! After watching this I am left believing I can do it after all.
Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo
Ça m’a énormément aidé
Cordialement Francis
Great job and great video
Did you miss the O-Ring on the right throttle body?
Great video! What mileage does the bike have?
i forgot, i did this awhile ago and just got around to finishing up my edit
I read on a forum people put R1200 injectors on R1100, seams to run better.
Hear any of that?
I used 4 hole injectors on R1100RT. Huge improvement.
Sehr Gute Arbeit, vorbildlich erklärt.👍
You made that look so easy😂😂😂
Where did you get the rebuilt transmission???
How long did it take you, shift that one out and ready to go`?
with filming it takes 16+ hours, i can do it in 5 without
Clutch Question.
I have BMW R18, currently has 13k miles. Engine off, when I pull on the clutch, I can hear a clicking sound from the engine.
Engine running neutral, when clutch is engaged, everything sounds normal. When clutch is disengaged, I can hear a different noise in the engine. How to describe but it sounds like more rumble noise. Definitely louder noise when clutch is disengage than engage..
Please advise, thank you!
Great job! Did you forgot the o-ring on the right side throttle Body R/H? 29:26 🤔 Greetings from Germany
Great vid, what's that with the shock at 11:15 ?
Good evening where are you located
Thanks from Brazil
All these videos are sponsored by you me, and the rest of us. If you are feeling generous please consider "joining" my channel, it cost as little as 1.99 and really helps me out. it will keep videos like this coming!
as Eliot111222 brilliant.......one question did you say you replaced the transmission or just the offending damaged spline shaft?????? keep the quality vids coming sooooo helpful.
Great video great work i am a vehicle technician and i just dont know how you can work with your watch on ...lol......i had got rid of my watch and my wedding ring straight a way when i start doing mechanics work
haha i used to it i guess.
Married to the bike 😂
My God, what a Mess...Gotta give you credit to have the patience for a job like this. If I had to pay the labor cost for a Job like this, I would have sold the Bike and get a new Bike/Brand. I have a 2021 R9T-719, I'll be rid of the Bike before it ever gets to this point.
Wow this is hell fire clutch replacement! 😂
This makes me not wanna buy one now how often does the transmission need replacement
How many miles does a clutch on this type bike normally get?
My clutch on R1100R just started slipping at 43,000 miles. I live in a city with a lot of stop and go traffic.
bonjours combien de temps pour réparation. merci
22:10 Discovered whilst cleaning my starter that my local BMW dealer, who redid the clutch at 60K on my GS, DIDNT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS DOWN. One was 1/4 unthreaded!!! So had to buy new bolts (as they stretch) and put them in one by one from the starter hole. As I was replacing them one at a time I didn’t lose alignment. That was almost 30k km of riding with a half installed clutch system …
So pathetic of the dealership.
Sadly not all professional mechanics are as good as you!
Clutch replacement on the BMW is the only thing that makes be hesitate buying an R18. It looks like you have to take the bike completely in half to do it, when any other bike is a simple side access/swap.
Dose it scrap the pegs/floor board in corners?
Depends on the rider. However it is VERY easy to scrape them if riding aggressive. RT RS RSL all of them are similar. My RS will scrape all sorts of things on track day. Smoothest bikes ever.
How long should it take to replace the clutch in your case rather than an amateur?
~8 hours beginning to end
@@TheBMWGuy Many thanks for info. J
Has anybody ever determined what causes the shaft splines to wear in a tapered shape? Why doesn’t it wear evenly front to back on the spline face.
Don't lose the shims on the speed sensor at the rear hub.
is this the same as a r1100rt?
yes
CAN YOU MAKE A VIDEO PERTAINING TO THIS? Please !!! "what we do for the clutches on these bikes is take the transmission and swingarm out in one piece, if you put the whole assembly on a cart is quite easy to do."