"When your strength level is high, increasing muscle mass in target region will be the key to taking you to the next level" Thank you Geek Climber for confirming what I have suspected for years :)
I learnt this as well when I bought a gymnastic training program (gymnastic bodies). They started all exercises at 3 then 5 sets, but kept the reps low (3-5 reps for strength). Then add more reps up to the 8,10,12, and eventually 15 reps at 5 sets to express mastery of the movement, before progressing to the new challenging exercise
@@petermozuraitis5219 Christopher Sommer actually knows very little about exercise science. Steven Low was an ex GB member, like Joshua Naterman and Yaad Mohammad. People who care about science end up moving away from GB and their super slow and outdated training methods.
It will take a good amount of effort to edit the full interview, so I will make it happen if there's enough interest. Thumbs up if you are interested in it!
There definitely is such a thing as “finger hypertrophy”. The muscles are mostly located in the forearm of course, I’m sure any mildly serious climbers have experienced DOMS in the forearm after an intense climbing session. The ligaments and other connective tissue in the hands and fingers will also respond to hypertrophic stimulus, albeit much more slowly.
Yeah,just watch magnus mitbo's or adam ondra's fingers and tell me these dont get finger hypertrophy, these are perfect examples to add up to what u said
Actually yeah, I remember doing a bunch of reading on it when I was thinking of climbing. Since tendons and bone respond slowly and not like muscle you don’t need to overload them like a muscle, it’s much better to stick to lower intensity frequently and promote blood flow in the area, and deloads are crucial. Progressive overload with tendons and bone is much more like a multi-month thing that muscle growth, but it’s doable. That being said, if you’re grip training and doing deloads your tendons and bones will respond and don’t really quite targeted training. The only equivalent I can think of is hangboard training.
@@hardcore3789 its not really "hypertrophy", its called finger pulp and its just some kind of soft tissue fluid build up over time. The same thing happens in manual labor or mechanics etc.
In my experiences of powerlifting (335 bench, 555 deadlift, 475 squat), submaximal training was by far best. I think a big component of this was just how taxing the maximal training was. I began doing 10 sets of 3 on my main lifts and saw massive progress. I don't do powerlifting anymore, but these principles have been helpful in other areas of training, including calisthenics and martial arts.
Glad you're enjoying the book! If you have any questions about it, you can shoot them over to the reddit where I answer them: www.reddit.com/r/overcominggravity/
a good way to think about this is that training MxS or neural optimizes the current muscle profile.. thus when that structure has been neurologically optimized, further gains might be achieved through shifting focus to increasing the structural profile. nice!
3:47 is the best advice for anyone who is struggling with being skinny fat. tldr: just eat at caloric maintenance and keep working out. It is possible to recompose existing fat to muscle, and stay at the same body weight.
i needed this i've recently been plateauing on everything as i'm only focusing in strength no wonder i kinda look smaller as well guess 8+ reps is needed
Finger strength is based on forearm muscle strength, i.e. the muscles that drive the fingers are in the forearm and attached to the fingers via tendons. There is such a thing as forearm muscle hypertrophy, and having it will increase finger strength, although you want to develop the tendon and bone strength as well, to prevent potential injuries.
How are we measuring 1RM with body weight? for example, if we are talking about push ups - how does something like doing 90% of your 1RM fit into something like this? or is this specific to weights only ? or does it translate into - if i can do 10 pushups then technical failure, my 90% would be doing a set of 9 pushups ? is that how it works ?
I disagree with your statement of not being able to increase muscle mass for your fingers. Your finger flexors are muscles in the forearms like any other muscle. Besides that, you don't seem to have strong hamstrings, glutes and abdominals which are really good for overhangs. Obviously I'm not saying that you should go on a bulk and get heavier, what i'm trying to point out is that middle repetition range can yield positive results for your climbing as long as you choose the correct exercises (antagonists, shoulder exercises, some type of deadlift and posterior chain work). Also eating a few more calories will allow you to train more and with more quality if it aids recovery. You should give it a go, add a little bit of calories and see how you feel for a couple of weeks.
I bought Steven's book years ago. Too complicated and too much to read, my brain commits suicide. So I watch You Tube tutorials instead, better if they're no more than 10 minutes. I learn by intuition than to read difficult books with lots of data to analyse through and process them. I learn better by reading concise information be it in a book or a video on the internet. Training wise, I get better result doing high rep range than low rep. With low reps I get tendonitis easily. Whilst high reps the load can be lower and I can avoid putting too much stress on my arms and still get strength gains. I won't get mass because my ectomorphic body type doesn't allow that. Smaller muscle groups such as wrists don't get much benefit from low rep range in my experience and likely to get tendonitis, so I use high reps instead to avoid that and made more gains in my wrist than low reps. What I learned? You can still get strength gains from high reps - I think its best for non-compound exercises or individual muscles. Especially fingers.
Geek, a quick question off topic about your ice showers knowledge. If I am training twice a day, morning workout 8 am and then afternoon climbing 4 PM, do you think its suitable to take a cold shower in between at 12AM before lunch? Thank you so much goat
well, the point is you need some form of resistance. in the case of bodyweight exercises the resistance comes from... your bodyweight. but even then once you reach a more advanced level often times you may need to progress to external weights to get stronger. dont dismiss external weights as a tool for getting stronger, but dont dismiss the basic bodyweight movements either i say.
It's better if you have weights to build muscle. Thats why every elite calisthenics athlete uses external weight to load weighted pull ups and other exercises.
Pronounced Hy-PER-tro-phy! Otherwise good stuff. One thing I will add is that tendons respond to time under tension to build integrity over time for both strength and durability. Hence dead hangs should be done both for endurance as well as 1RM or strength.
@@GeekClimber This is actually latin, with which I often struggle as well (and many different pronunciations often exist), so I offer my suggestion with due humility. Great episode overall!
"When your strength level is high, increasing muscle mass in target region will be the key to taking you to the next level" Thank you Geek Climber for confirming what I have suspected for years :)
Yes, but finding the right amount of balance between strength training and hypertrophy training is actually pretty hard to execute!
I learnt this as well when I bought a gymnastic training program (gymnastic bodies). They started all exercises at 3 then 5 sets, but kept the reps low (3-5 reps for strength). Then add more reps up to the 8,10,12, and eventually 15 reps at 5 sets to express mastery of the movement, before progressing to the new challenging exercise
@@petermozuraitis5219 Christopher Sommer actually knows very little about exercise science. Steven Low was an ex GB member, like Joshua Naterman and Yaad Mohammad.
People who care about science end up moving away from GB and their super slow and outdated training methods.
Are you going to release the full interview?
+1, would appreciate.
+1
Please yes!
Definitely need this!
It will take a good amount of effort to edit the full interview, so I will make it happen if there's enough interest. Thumbs up if you are interested in it!
There definitely is such a thing as “finger hypertrophy”. The muscles are mostly located in the forearm of course, I’m sure any mildly serious climbers have experienced DOMS in the forearm after an intense climbing session. The ligaments and other connective tissue in the hands and fingers will also respond to hypertrophic stimulus, albeit much more slowly.
Yeah,just watch magnus mitbo's or adam ondra's fingers and tell me these dont get finger hypertrophy, these are perfect examples to add up to what u said
Actually yeah, I remember doing a bunch of reading on it when I was thinking of climbing. Since tendons and bone respond slowly and not like muscle you don’t need to overload them like a muscle, it’s much better to stick to lower intensity frequently and promote blood flow in the area, and deloads are crucial. Progressive overload with tendons and bone is much more like a multi-month thing that muscle growth, but it’s doable. That being said, if you’re grip training and doing deloads your tendons and bones will respond and don’t really quite targeted training. The only equivalent I can think of is hangboard training.
@@hardcore3789 its not really "hypertrophy", its called finger pulp and its just some kind of soft tissue fluid build up over time. The same thing happens in manual labor or mechanics etc.
Great video on training, thx. Too bad you stopped on the nerding out part, would be very interesting. And yes, there is forearm hypertrophy ;)
In my experiences of powerlifting (335 bench, 555 deadlift, 475 squat), submaximal training was by far best. I think a big component of this was just how taxing the maximal training was. I began doing 10 sets of 3 on my main lifts and saw massive progress. I don't do powerlifting anymore, but these principles have been helpful in other areas of training, including calisthenics and martial arts.
It would be great to have the full discussion with Steven in a non listed video ;)
Another reason to do more reps over 1rm is to reduce risk of injuries by training at such high intensity.
Yes, and I think this is especially true for training fingers or small muscle groups.
I bought the book recently. So far I am enjoying it very much.
Glad you're enjoying the book! If you have any questions about it, you can shoot them over to the reddit where I answer them: www.reddit.com/r/overcominggravity/
Big up’s to overcoming gravity kicked it up a few years ago loved it
Glad you enjoyed the book! Hopefully helped your training as well.
Could you release the whole interview as a podcast??? Thanks
a good way to think about this is that training MxS or neural optimizes the current muscle profile.. thus when that structure has been neurologically optimized, further gains might be achieved through shifting focus to increasing the structural profile. nice!
Those hands movements during the explanation :))
Good video mate
Awesome video! Steven is smart
Thank you for chopping the air. 1:40
3:47 is the best advice for anyone who is struggling with being skinny fat.
tldr: just eat at caloric maintenance and keep working out. It is possible to recompose existing fat to muscle, and stay at the same body weight.
Would love to see a podcast version of the conversation!
i needed this i've recently been plateauing on everything as i'm only focusing in strength no wonder i kinda look smaller as well guess 8+ reps is needed
It would be awesome to see the full interview
Finger strength is based on forearm muscle strength, i.e. the muscles that drive the fingers are in the forearm and attached to the fingers via tendons. There is such a thing as forearm muscle hypertrophy, and having it will increase finger strength, although you want to develop the tendon and bone strength as well, to prevent potential injuries.
How are we measuring 1RM with body weight? for example, if we are talking about push ups - how does something like doing 90% of your 1RM fit into something like this? or is this specific to weights only ? or does it translate into - if i can do 10 pushups then technical failure, my 90% would be doing a set of 9 pushups ? is that how it works ?
Hey GC, great video- it would great if you could drop the extended version for the other nerds…good video and great channel!
Great video and explanations from Steven!
Talking about injuries... Whats you take on golfers elbow and to strengthening tendons in general? Great channel!
Would love to see the full interview:)
I would love to see how does your strength workout looks like
I disagree with your statement of not being able to increase muscle mass for your fingers. Your finger flexors are muscles in the forearms like any other muscle. Besides that, you don't seem to have strong hamstrings, glutes and abdominals which are really good for overhangs. Obviously I'm not saying that you should go on a bulk and get heavier, what i'm trying to point out is that middle repetition range can yield positive results for your climbing as long as you choose the correct exercises (antagonists, shoulder exercises, some type of deadlift and posterior chain work). Also eating a few more calories will allow you to train more and with more quality if it aids recovery. You should give it a go, add a little bit of calories and see how you feel for a couple of weeks.
Make more skills and research videos, I really enjoy these
thanks for subtitling to portuguese
+1 to: I would definitely be interested in the extended conversation :)
I bought Steven's book years ago. Too complicated and too much to read, my brain commits suicide. So I watch You Tube tutorials instead, better if they're no more than 10 minutes. I learn by intuition than to read difficult books with lots of data to analyse through and process them. I learn better by reading concise information be it in a book or a video on the internet. Training wise, I get better result doing high rep range than low rep. With low reps I get tendonitis easily. Whilst high reps the load can be lower and I can avoid putting too much stress on my arms and still get strength gains. I won't get mass because my ectomorphic body type doesn't allow that. Smaller muscle groups such as wrists don't get much benefit from low rep range in my experience and likely to get tendonitis, so I use high reps instead to avoid that and made more gains in my wrist than low reps. What I learned? You can still get strength gains from high reps - I think its best for non-compound exercises or individual muscles. Especially fingers.
JFYI "ectomorphic body type" is just a way to classify how do you look right now, it has nothing to do with genetics.
Release the whole video.
i want to know the weely voulme (total set per week)
hahah love the challenge at the end of the video... I've been meaning to get some 5bar soon...
Full version of the interview? :D
The tempo of hand gesturing is not matching with the voice....
But if you increase your leg size, the upper body will have no choice but to increase mass to cope with the excess weight
What's the name of the bald guy you were referencing at 1:34
Dr Mike at channel Renaissance Periodization
LET'S GOOOOO!!!!!!!11
Do you take supplements for your joints? I noticed training like this can be destructive for your body.
Edit: Maybe I’m just getting to old for it
To overcome age, train in a long range of motion
sick vid
Are the 5 Bar vegan?
Yes it is!
Geek, a quick question off topic about your ice showers knowledge.
If I am training twice a day, morning workout 8 am and then afternoon climbing 4 PM, do you think its suitable to take a cold shower in between at 12AM before lunch?
Thank you so much goat
I need the traditional chinese translation.
Im skippin leg day for the next month
This book…. Doesn’t motion the workout volume (sets)
hypohtraphy
Just shows you don’t need weights to build muscle
well, the point is you need some form of resistance. in the case of bodyweight exercises the resistance comes from... your bodyweight. but even then once you reach a more advanced level often times you may need to progress to external weights to get stronger. dont dismiss external weights as a tool for getting stronger, but dont dismiss the basic bodyweight movements either i say.
@@taggerung_ im speechless, that explanation was literally perfect💀🙌🙌🙌
It's better if you have weights to build muscle.
Thats why every elite calisthenics athlete uses external weight to load weighted pull ups and other exercises.
Pronounced Hy-PER-tro-phy! Otherwise good stuff. One thing I will add is that tendons respond to time under tension to build integrity over time for both strength and durability. Hence dead hangs should be done both for endurance as well as 1RM or strength.
Maybe geek climb thinks he's British. They pronounce it differently
English is hard, haha. Thanks for the correction. I will pronounce it correctly next time!
@@GeekClimber This is actually latin, with which I often struggle as well (and many different pronunciations often exist), so I offer my suggestion with due humility. Great episode overall!
😂
His name is low but all he wants to do is get high
😆😆
Please, you better start to fix your scoliosis, get some yoga exercises or something
I don't know, maybe it is just an illusion and you don't have it.