Hi Thanks for you video I have two 2003 Sea Doo GTI LE RFI The one works fine The other one starts out running just fine like it should but once it warms up and I stop running it it won’t start up again Not sure something heats up and causes it not to start (not firing right) our not getting gas Any suggestions Once it cools down it will start up and run fine but if I stop it it won’t start back up
How do you know what size diameter of the hoses when my repair book it shows the schematic of what you’re you know whatever part it is and on the opposite page, it tells you like the parts list but it says hose washer screw clip pin. It doesn’t say any no size of screw fill up a regular doesn’t say whether it’s a brass screw magnetic screw still screw, how do you DIY when the manual doesn’t tell you what size any of the hardware is or what? What any description of it I ordered a kit that some off of eBay that’s for the oil line supposedly in the things are marked where they’re coming from and where they go to, but when you look at the skate the drawing of like the houses it doesn’t they don’t list them like that doesn’t say baffled to whatever, I don’t know if this makes any sense
Hey buddy. There is a parts manual separate from the shop manual. That has all those size and part number details. Search Seadoo manuals on Google and you will see. I personally spend more time in those parts manuals than than the shop manual. Let me know if you need help
Very informative. I have a 97, I got on a trade last year. It’s had some issues that I’ve been able to fix. The typical exhaust leak, some electrical issues etc. I just recently went through it all and it’s running great. I’ve haven’t had it in the water since doing this and when I started it he other day, there was clean 2 stroke oil leaking underneath the motor. It’s not coming from the tank or lines leading to the pump. I can’t find the cause and I don’t want to run it just in case it’s not getting enough oil. Any ideas on what it can be? When I reach my hand under the motor it’s coated in fresh oil. I hate to start ripping everything apart not knowing what to look for after spending so much time getting it put back together. Thanks if u see this message
It's most likely the crank seals. They get old and leak. When you ride it warms them and rejuvenates them and they seal back for bit until the machine sits again for a few weeks. Some people put plastic fitting valves on the two oil lines and shut off the flow while sitting. Have to remember to turn them on at the ramp. Short of that engine needs new bottom end.
@@jonparkmacthanks for the reply! it only comes out when I start it. Nothing when it sits. Also, it’s clean oil. If it was the crank seals wouldn’t it be dirty, gas/oil combination coming out?
There is a single line to the pump and two for the rotary gear. Usually its the later for oil leaks and it's clean oil as it's in a loop and not combusted. Check you oil pump and make sure nothing around it is leaking. Check the small injection lines too.
Also, on the left side of the engine near the bottom, there is a Welch plug. I have seen a few of them leaking from there. If you keep your seadoo inside, leave the oil cap loose so it doesn't build up pressure and cause leaks.
May I ask? The Throttle cable? I have a modified engine, they removed the pump. I need to get another pump but not sure how the cable mounts? Some of the pumps have an attached bracket for it. Just don't know if my 1999 GTX Limited needs the same one? Any advise?
The one I had to find for this one needed the bracket built on to the pump itself. Later models like yours have the bracket as part of the magneto cover. So look at the front of your mag cover and see if you see a bracket. You wrap the oil lever one time around and then put cable on so it has tension. When your carb is adjusted for idle, adjust the pump cable so the 2 marks line up.
@@jonparkmac Jon, looked at the oil pump I found in the bottom of the ski. It only has one mark not 2. I should assume that it would be the setting or timing line?
@garyc3016 there is a line on the lever and a line on the body. Those need to line up. It's sometimes hard to see. I have a pic in another video. Look at 1:45 here th-cam.com/video/xGO5_cmm0k4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pd-0vwMgpSFguYNL
The issue is not with the pumps. It is with the OEM oil lines cracking and burning up the motor cause you don’t know the oil isn’t reaching the intake. So the block offs and premix solves that.
Correct, pumps don't fail. And yes, that's why you always replace the lines. A maintained oiling system is far better than premix as it is variable mix with RPM. Having to carry measuring cups and calculating ratios sucks and is error prone. Premix also fouls plugs more often for rec riders that do a lot of low/idle. That's why I'm reinstating injection here, like my other skis have. Premix is not really a "solution" .. it's a suboptimal work-around employed mostly by people that are misinformed on seadoo oil injection reliability. The 20+ year seadoo mechanics never recommend deleting injection ✌️
Don't lose the nylon coupler that goes between the oil pump and the flywheel. Apparently, those are very difficult to find now. Discontinued and not cheap!
thank you , you do"not know how much i was helped by this video so so much
Cool man, glad it helped.
Hi
Thanks for you video
I have two 2003 Sea Doo GTI LE RFI
The one works fine
The other one starts out running just fine like it should but once it warms up and I stop running it it won’t start up again
Not sure something heats up and causes it not to start (not firing right) our not getting gas
Any suggestions
Once it cools down it will start up and run fine but if I stop it it won’t start back up
What size is the larger line that feeds the pump from the tank?
8mm or approx 5/16. Replace the filter and don't worry which way it goes ..doesn't matter but people obsess over it 😂
@jonparkmac all the filters I've seen are direction with some sort of indication which I would "indicate" towards the pump.
Yeah, this oil moves glacier speed gravity fed so it doesn't matter, but if it has an arrow by all means. I replace mine every 2 seasons.
How do you know what size diameter of the hoses when my repair book it shows the schematic of what you’re you know whatever part it is and on the opposite page, it tells you like the parts list but it says hose washer screw clip pin. It doesn’t say any no size of screw fill up a regular doesn’t say whether it’s a brass screw magnetic screw still screw, how do you DIY when the manual doesn’t tell you what size any of the hardware is or what? What any description of it I ordered a kit that some off of eBay that’s for the oil line supposedly in the things are marked where they’re coming from and where they go to, but when you look at the skate the drawing of like the houses it doesn’t they don’t list them like that doesn’t say baffled to whatever, I don’t know if this makes any sense
Hey buddy. There is a parts manual separate from the shop manual. That has all those size and part number details. Search Seadoo manuals on Google and you will see. I personally spend more time in those parts manuals than than the shop manual. Let me know if you need help
Very informative. I have a 97, I got on a trade last year. It’s had some issues that I’ve been able to fix. The typical exhaust leak, some electrical issues etc. I just recently went through it all and it’s running great. I’ve haven’t had it in the water since doing this and when I started it he other day, there was clean 2 stroke oil leaking underneath the motor. It’s not coming from the tank or lines leading to the pump. I can’t find the cause and I don’t want to run it just in case it’s not getting enough oil. Any ideas on what it can be? When I reach my hand under the motor it’s coated in fresh oil. I hate to start ripping everything apart not knowing what to look for after spending so much time getting it put back together. Thanks if u see this message
It's most likely the crank seals. They get old and leak. When you ride it warms them and rejuvenates them and they seal back for bit until the machine sits again for a few weeks. Some people put plastic fitting valves on the two oil lines and shut off the flow while sitting. Have to remember to turn them on at the ramp. Short of that engine needs new bottom end.
@@jonparkmacthanks for the reply! it only comes out when I start it. Nothing when it sits. Also, it’s clean oil. If it was the crank seals wouldn’t it be dirty, gas/oil combination coming out?
There is a single line to the pump and two for the rotary gear. Usually its the later for oil leaks and it's clean oil as it's in a loop and not combusted. Check you oil pump and make sure nothing around it is leaking. Check the small injection lines too.
@@jonparkmac thank you I will do that!
Also, on the left side of the engine near the bottom, there is a Welch plug. I have seen a few of them leaking from there.
If you keep your seadoo inside, leave the oil cap loose so it doesn't build up pressure and cause leaks.
May I ask? The Throttle cable? I have a modified engine, they removed the pump. I need to get another pump but not sure how the cable mounts? Some of the pumps have an attached bracket for it. Just don't know if my 1999 GTX Limited needs the same one? Any advise?
The one I had to find for this one needed the bracket built on to the pump itself. Later models like yours have the bracket as part of the magneto cover. So look at the front of your mag cover and see if you see a bracket. You wrap the oil lever one time around and then put cable on so it has tension. When your carb is adjusted for idle, adjust the pump cable so the 2 marks line up.
Ahhhhhh, thank you for that insight, I'll be checking it out.....@@jonparkmac
@@jonparkmac Jon, looked at the oil pump I found in the bottom of the ski. It only has one mark not 2. I should assume that it would be the setting or timing line?
@garyc3016 there is a line on the lever and a line on the body. Those need to line up. It's sometimes hard to see. I have a pic in another video. Look at 1:45 here th-cam.com/video/xGO5_cmm0k4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pd-0vwMgpSFguYNL
@@jonparkmac yessir, that I know, see here, this guy has 3 lines on his 951 pump? - th-cam.com/video/3yb6THsnPwo/w-d-xo.html
What size were the oil lines?
It's 3/32" tygon line. Make sure it's real tygon and not the fake yellow stuff out there
What size are the lines?
3/32" tygon brutha
The issue is not with the pumps. It is with the OEM oil lines cracking and burning up the motor cause you don’t know the oil isn’t reaching the intake. So the block offs and premix solves that.
Correct, pumps don't fail. And yes, that's why you always replace the lines. A maintained oiling system is far better than premix as it is variable mix with RPM. Having to carry measuring cups and calculating ratios sucks and is error prone. Premix also fouls plugs more often for rec riders that do a lot of low/idle. That's why I'm reinstating injection here, like my other skis have. Premix is not really a "solution" .. it's a suboptimal work-around employed mostly by people that are misinformed on seadoo oil injection reliability. The 20+ year seadoo mechanics never recommend deleting injection ✌️
Great help! I have a question. Can I pre mix on a Seadoo GTX 2 stroke or should I fix the oil system? Fuel injection, no carburador. Thanks
You cannot premix the fuel injection models. I don't know exactly why but the experts that work on those all say premix is a no-go in fuel injection
Don't lose the nylon coupler that goes between the oil pump and the flywheel. Apparently, those are very difficult to find now. Discontinued and not cheap!
Good point. I have a few places to source used from if I needed that. Also a good 3D printing solution for someone. Thanks for the comment bruther
@Jonathan McClure yeah, get those out on ebay. We gotta keep the 2 stroke alive. The 4 strokes are a nightmare.
Agree. Cost effective to revive these. I have a 4 -teck and it's a hause
Nie zmierzył ilości oleju.
Fair point. I used eyeball + experience checker 😁