i'm convinced. thanks for demonstrating this. will use max/min from now on. tried similar squares just now. the biggest improvement for me was the lack of burn through in the corners when using a large max/min range.
You are awesome Russ! Thank you so much for making these videos. They are easily the most complete and well explained tutorials I’ve found for these lasers.
Hi Thanks for the kind words but always remember that this series tracks my learning journey from nothing to moderately competent. You may learn from my successes and failures but I must stress these are not tutorials. Yes, I share what I am discovering, but you must be critical of my conclusions because sometimes there may be another interpretation of what I find.. That is why I go into the thought processes and the methods I am using. I am always happy to accept criticism, provided it is logical and well argued, that is all part of the process of advancing knowledge. Best wishes Russ
Hi Tim Max and min power is generally only used in special circumstances. In particular 3D engraving..... see th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=3xO1hiBQzBg . For normal cutting you will always set max and min to the same value. If however you are using a cut to draw a shape rather than to cut it, then you will find that the corners always burn deeper and thicker. You can employ max and min values to mitigate this problem. see th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=vqQyhW4uSsM Hope this helps a bit. Best wishes Russ
Hi Tomas That sounds nice on a sunny day. However, this is my initial understanding of Max and Min. As my knowledge grew with time I was able to sort ot the real details of what was happening. please see this video th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
LONG story short, Min power helps you ramp the laser intensity down as it decelerates into corners and turns to prevent burning/varying depth. Max power is just that, max power on straight aways. You will have to play with the proportions 10% min, 30% max etc to get your desired result, BUT you don't have to watch the next 3 videos of this nice gentleman man sharing is intellectual journey showing what I just explained in 3 sentences.
Hi Devon Yes you are correct up to a point with some of your parameters but it is not the full story. At this stage back in 2016 there were very few people that had much to share about this technology or this specific subject and I was on a learning journey to find out for myself.. I did not fully get to grips with the MIN power feature until about 18 months further into my journey whereupon you will also discover that your 10% is a very vague approximation. The actual % is entirely dependent on your tube and power supply. Some tubes do not switch on until 18% or one Reci tube I used , 25%, So 10% will certainly not work for them. This later video explains exactly what is happening th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html The best way to find YOUR best MIN power is to draw a 25mm square and set your MiN % to 5. MAX has no effect on the result. Laser the square and you will find the corners do not join. Just keep increasing MIN power until the corners JUST join. That's it. Best wishes Russ
With google it's really annoying trying to search for RDWorks, it will come up with about 2 laser related articles then shoot of on a tangent about road works for 500+ pages. Using quotation marks doesn't help either it just ignores them like I will show you what I think you need to know and it will be popular.
+SarbarMultimedia Hi I did a Google search with just RDWorks (typed just like that) and the first page was ALL links to download sites such as Ruida and Thunder laser, I found no links to roadworks. Puzzled. Regards Russ
+Mentorcase When you look at the acrylic tests i did in part 2 there is no evidence of high power at the start of the cut. There is a specific feature in CUT mode for that which is called Through Power. I demonstrated this on my beam drag video. This high power start and an delay before moving off, is only required for metal cutting machines where it takes a significant period (maybe a second) to pierce through thick metal. It is essential that you pierce through when cutting metal because the cutting mechanism is "melt and blow away" With virtually all materials we use on our little techno toys the cutting mechanism is either burning (wood, leather, paper etc) or evaporation ( acrylic) and we don't really need this feature. Max /Min has real purpose in SCAN mode but when you select SCAN you get an entirely different parameter selection widow. As soon as you swap back to CUT a greatly simplified window appears, however, Min power is still there....why? if it has no obvious function. Best regards Russ
I don't understand the backlash test. wouldn't a better backlash test be to cut two parallel lines, cutting in opposite directions to see if the start and stop point are in alignment? That should revel any slack in the belts.
+2020tesla HI Dwayne You are correct. Isn't the information you are seeking there with the two parallel edges between the squares ?They travel in opposite directions and finish up travelling away from each other so that it would be easy to spot a misalignment (backlash)? Everything was drawn in alignment so that there were several opportunities to witness mismatch steps, out of squareness or non-parallelism. I did consider two circles starting 90 degrees from each other but that would have given me only one opportunity ( the start/stop point) to see mis-match Best regards Russ
Hello, great info as always. Another use I've found from searching around is than min-max power with output direct (and "special mode" in user/Scan mode settings) is used for power variation in high dpi scan mode for grayscale images and 3d engraving in wood. But your find seems more useful, it must make a big difference for cutting/engraving sensitive thin materials. P.S. does this machine and software have the ability to control the z-axis (up/down) in a program? Changing focus and cut depths for example in a job?
+SotirisG Hi Sotris I'm in the middle of adding to that video because I'm sure that what I found is not correct. I'm sure the machine software is NOT that clever (as I originally suspected) and what I saw was for a completely different reason. So lets wait for the real answer.. I'm investigating further.Yes, I'm sure you are right, that max min power is all to do with the scan mode When you look in your control enclosure you will find TWO black driver module for the stepper motors. If you find a third then your machine is configured for a Z axis as well. This will only be possible if you have a motorized table. I have a motorized table but no drive module just an up/off/down switch. You sound like you have done lots of engraving and know all about this grey area for me. Apart from playing with the basic tools I have had too many other things to deal with up to now. But now I am ready to explore other areas, Wood engraving and wood carving would make a great subject area. Any help/tips/experience you can furnish me with would be very helpful. I have discovered a manual on line for an early version of my machine that used a very early version of software when it was called RDcam It's written in a much more understandable way and I've just started to read about the engraving options in there. Most of it is recognizable in the current version of RDWorks. Best regards Russ
+SarbarMultimedia Hi Russ. I actually don't have a laser of my own yet, this is some info I've found searching the internet and asking manufacturers about 3d engraving capability (something approaching the Kern lasers: /qndvdUzfW-U). If you read the latest Ruida manual (and have some considerable deciphering skills!), under Direct output: it writes "according to the actual graphics gray... color deep place laser energy big, color shallow place laser energy is small", and under section 3.3.2 Sweep parameters/Scan mode, it writes "The purpose to select the special mode is to make the laser to emit beams at high power and in short period (pulse?), during deep scanning, the effect of flat bottom can be achieved". According to a manufacturer these settings with several passes and a powerful enough laser can produce a deep engraving/relief effect (search for the Thunderlaser 3d engraving video). Backlash and acceleration adjustments also I understand are important for engraving quality. Check this video also about focus /uBlcLtudxPs Best Regards Sotiris
+SarbarMultimedia Hi, Russ. I don't know if my reply was posted or not, here it is again without links. Hi Russ. I actually don't have a laser of my own yet, this is some info I've found searching the internet and asking manufacturers about 3d engraving capability (something approaching the Kern lasers). If you read the latest Ruida manual (and have some considerable deciphering skills!), under Direct output: it writes "according to the actual graphics gray... color deep place laser energy big, color shallow place laser energy is small", and under section 3.3.2 Sweep parameters/Scan mode, it writes "The purpose to select the special mode is to make the laser to emit beams at high power and in short period (pulse?), during deep scanning, the effect of flat bottom can be achieved". According to a manufacturer these settings with several passes and a powerful enough laser can produce a deep engraving/relief effect (search for the Thunderlaser 3d engraving video). Backlash and acceleration adjustments also I understand are important for engraving quality.
+SotirisG Hi Sotris I have only touched on the basics of engraving so far because I have had many other issues to sort out with my machine. Now that I have a good reliable machine I intend to start looking carefully at this very interesting subject. This whole Max/Min issue arose because I was doing a simple backlash test program as just another check for my machine. It passed with flying colours but I did notice this interesting depth of cut change in MDF at all the sharp corners. My immediate interest was in CUT mode not SCAN mode which is what you are referring to. I realise that in SCAN mode there are MANY parameters for playing with beam strength and these parameters ONLY appear in the parameter setting window when you select SCAN. In CUT mode the window is different. My question has always been, why do they give you a Max Min choice in CUT mode ? I thought that maybe I had stumbled on the reason. Several correspondents have advised me that setting two values does have an effect, but at the moment I see no evidence of obvious change when I select extreme values(see part 2). My original "discovery" turned out to have been caused by a stupid mistake I made (explained in part3). Thanks for your input because this will be handy when I start researching, experimenting and making videos on this subject. There are undoubtedly some expert laser engravers out there who will quickly tell me where I am going wrong but there are no in depth explanations/ videos of wood engraving techniques and "how to" that I have discovered yet. I last looked about 6 months ago and it's great that you advise Thunder Laser have now done one. Thanks for that information I will go and check it out. Best regards Russ
Hi Russ, another great informative video. Out of interest what would the result have been if you set the min to something below 9% or even 0. Is it possible that the over burn would stop completely?
Hi Bob I have to deduce that you do not own a laser yet? If you did you will have found out for yourself that (depending on tube type and power) the tube will not fire below certain % power. That maybe 8,9, 10 or even 12% for some tubes. So the minimum I set was as low as my tube would run (just). The max allowable drive current through the tube will be specified by the tube manufacturer and the chances are that that will be reached by the time the power is set to 65%. So, many people wrongly assume that the power is linear from 0 to 100%. That's wrong and only the range 10% to 65% is usable. Best regards Russ
Hi Russ, thanks for replying to question and yes you are correct in your assumption that I do not currently own a laser, but I'm looking at buying a 60w in the very near future. I apologise for my apparent senseless question but my point was for the laser not to fire at the transition of changing direction. Regards Bob
Max/Min was a complex subject which took quite a while to unravel. This was my first peep into what MAY have been happening. See this later examination to find out the final truth th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html Best wishes Russ
Hi It took some time to find out exactly how the max min power function works but a year or so later with the help of an oscilloscope, I managed to nail it See th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html Best wishes Russ
Hi Mike I never fully resolved the max min problem. Some time later I looked at it agin and finally decoded the problem. see th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html Best wishes Russ
Hi Rui What you speak of exists in Vendor Settings. With a glass tube you must understand the max current you can allow to flow through the tube. Too much current flow will quickly shorten the life of your tube. There are several ways to limit that current. If you have an ammeter then you can know what % power you require to reach this allowable limit. You can set that % power limit within the Vendor Settings. A more complicated way to limit that current flow is to use the % attenuation feature. You will have to guess the % attenuation and then test to see if you have achieved the max current limit, It is just another way for the Vendor to protect the tube he has installed. To be honest most vendors don't set limits or are about how you treat your tube. It is usually B grade to start with and the more you abuse your tube the better the spare tube sales. Best wishes Russ
+Krefey Hi Wait on I'm in the middle of a rework of the Max MIn. What I saw and for a reason I believed ....I think it's wrong I was stuck in a traffic jam tonight and was thinking it through....NO the machine cannot be that clever!! and I'm sure its not .....I'll be back!! Russ
+Krefey Hi Michael For some reason your bulls eye question did not appear in my comments, so I hope you get an answer via this. It's sort of covered in my illuminated house sign video where if you chose scan mode it's the first closed object from the outside that gets scanned and then every other closed object going to the centre . For example if you draw 2 concentric circles and fill the cental area woth other random circles (some overlapping) you will see this effect clearly. I am just starting on an in depth study of engraving and one thing you can do with your bulls eye is to define pairs of circles as different scan layers and set different speeds and powers to each. That way you will engrave different depth circles Check out with preview before you cut and you will be surpised what happens. Experimentation is the only way to learn because there are very few people out there willing to tell you their secrets. Thanks for your input Best regards Russ.
how does it affect cut through? as in, if you need 40% to cut through(just cuts through and no more), and you set min at (example) 10%, does it still cut through? I think this will be a 'suck it and see' setting but I will find it handy for the MDF I cut already
+Michael Edmond Hi Michael This is obviously fine for engraving or controlling DRAWN lines with a cut parameter. For through cutting it still requires max and min set the same. It seems as though the MIN power is the over-riding parameter UNTIL it matches MAX POWER So it's useful for those that are doing a lot of engraving as I suspect dot size/density will create power variations if you let the machine "loose" I'm sure there's some experts out there that either take this for granted or are not telling. Certainly worth experimenting with more for graphics work Regards Russ
+SarbarMultimedia Russ, can you try a circular or this square cut on your thick acrylic display pieces? I saw a bad drag well captured in a clear acrylic like yours... i always used min/max same values before, maybe time to change :)
@@SarbarMultimedia, hi. I actually need image to be engraved (cutting parameters) NOT scanned. Do you have any info what is recommended maximum cut speed?
@@projex5894 Hi So you want to do outline (vector) drawing with a fast cut? First of all draw a 25mm square and find the best power speed parameters for the middle of the square sides (set max and min the same). The corners will always be dark. When you are happy with the result set the min power to about 5% and repeat the test. It is almost certain that the corners of the square will not join. Increase the power in 1% steps until the corners JUST join. That's it If you change the power or speed you will have to carry out this test again. It is VERY sensitive....you cannot take a wild guess. Best wishes Russ
Problem 2. You are asking about max speed for drawing there is value anyone can tell you. It depends on MANY factors, the focal length of your lens, the power of your tube , the material you are trying to mark but most importantly there is the Ferrari effect that you have to understand. I have seen you out driving you VERY fast Ferrari so you will knowthat it probably takes at least half a mile for you to reach 200mph???? and with those amazing optional carbon brakes you can stop in 200 yards. Hmmm. Ok.Lets change the rules. Around your small housing block there is a road that is 100yds square. What speed can you reach before you have to slam on the brakes to get round each corner? 60mp[h? This exact same scenario existe with our machine. You can set the speed to whatever you like (200mm/s) but unless the distance is long enough for the machine to accelerate to 200mm/s then you are wasting you time. If your job comprises lots of small circles , triangles or other fiddly shapes setting your power high to run at 200mm/swill result in overburning bacause the speed may only be 20mm/s.. I hope this begins to explain why the answer to your question is a matter of experience, and judgment Best wishes Russ
Hi Samantha I make it very clear that I am not teaching, I am a student myself on a journey of discovery about this technology and this machine. This was a subject I kept revisiting and it was not until I was able to look at the control signals with an oscilloscope that I understood what actually happens within thecontroller. See th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html Best wishes Russ
i'm convinced. thanks for demonstrating this. will use max/min from now on. tried similar squares just now. the biggest improvement for me was the lack of burn through in the corners when using a large max/min range.
You are awesome Russ! Thank you so much for making these videos. They are easily the most complete and well explained tutorials I’ve found for these lasers.
Hi Thanks for the kind words but always remember that this series tracks my learning journey from nothing to moderately competent. You may learn from my successes and failures but I must stress these are not tutorials. Yes, I share what I am discovering, but you must be critical of my conclusions because sometimes there may be another interpretation of what I find.. That is why I go into the thought processes and the methods I am using. I am always happy to accept criticism, provided it is logical and well argued, that is all part of the process of advancing knowledge.
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia I appreciate the disclaimer 👍 Don't sell yourself short though, you do great work.
I haven't had my laser for very long, but I was wondering about min/max power. Your video's are always helpful.
Hi Tim
Max and min power is generally only used in special circumstances. In particular 3D engraving..... see th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=3xO1hiBQzBg . For normal cutting you will always set max and min to the same value. If however you are using a cut to draw a shape rather than to cut it, then you will find that the corners always burn deeper and thicker. You can employ max and min values to mitigate this problem. see th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=vqQyhW4uSsM
Hope this helps a bit.
Best wishes
Russ
That is a lot smarter than I expected too.
thanks for this video, i'm trying to learn about max/min power but i can't find any information about it. thanks again
I owe you a nice frosty beverage! You have saved me so much time! Thanks so much!
Hi Tomas
That sounds nice on a sunny day. However, this is my initial understanding of Max and Min. As my knowledge grew with time I was able to sort ot the real details of what was happening. please see this video th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
LONG story short, Min power helps you ramp the laser intensity down as it decelerates into corners and turns to prevent burning/varying depth. Max power is just that, max power on straight aways. You will have to play with the proportions 10% min, 30% max etc to get your desired result, BUT you don't have to watch the next 3 videos of this nice gentleman man sharing is intellectual journey showing what I just explained in 3 sentences.
Hi Devon
Yes you are correct up to a point with some of your parameters but it is not the full story. At this stage back in 2016 there were very few people that had much to share about this technology or this specific subject and I was on a learning journey to find out for myself.. I did not fully get to grips with the MIN power feature until about 18 months further into my journey whereupon you will also discover that your 10% is a very vague approximation. The actual % is entirely dependent on your tube and power supply. Some tubes do not switch on until 18% or one Reci tube I used , 25%, So 10% will certainly not work for them. This later video explains exactly what is happening
th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
The best way to find YOUR best MIN power is to draw a 25mm square and set your MiN % to 5. MAX has no effect on the result. Laser the square and you will find the corners do not join. Just keep increasing MIN power until the corners JUST join. That's it.
Best wishes
Russ
Incredibly valuable 3 minute video, thank you
Hi John
The story continues to a real conclusion in part 4
Best wishes
Russ
That is good to know....
When I get the chance I will look at doing this on leather.
+Little Steampunker
It's worth reading my reply to Michael. Could be great fact for your kind of work.
Regards
Russ
With google it's really annoying trying to search for RDWorks, it will come up with about 2 laser related articles then shoot of on a tangent about road works for 500+ pages. Using quotation marks doesn't help either it just ignores them like I will show you what I think you need to know and it will be popular.
+Mentorcase
Hi Thanks for that info. I'll check it out and change the tag to something that Google understands
Regards
Russ
+SarbarMultimedia
Hi
I did a Google search with just RDWorks (typed just like that) and the first page was ALL links to download sites such as Ruida and Thunder laser, I found no links to roadworks. Puzzled.
Regards
Russ
Very cool.
Is the machine maintaining power/distance-change constant based on max power and clip at min power, or some other algorithm?
I think the min power and max power are for when a cut starts it uses max power then switches to min to carry on cutting the same line.
+Mentorcase
When you look at the acrylic tests i did in part 2 there is no evidence of high power at the start of the cut. There is a specific feature in CUT mode for that which is called Through Power. I demonstrated this on my beam drag video. This high power start and an delay before moving off, is only required for metal cutting machines where it takes a significant period (maybe a second) to pierce through thick metal. It is essential that you pierce through when cutting metal because the cutting mechanism is "melt and blow away" With virtually all materials we use on our little techno toys the cutting mechanism is either burning (wood, leather, paper etc) or evaporation ( acrylic) and we don't really need this feature.
Max /Min has real purpose in SCAN mode but when you select SCAN you get an entirely different parameter selection widow. As soon as you swap back to CUT a greatly simplified window appears, however, Min power is still there....why? if it has no obvious function.
Best regards
Russ
dear pla sound of your blower is good for voice quality
Thanks now I too finally know why we need MIN/MAX. hooray
I don't understand the backlash test. wouldn't a better backlash test be to cut two parallel lines, cutting in opposite directions to see if the start and stop point are in alignment? That should revel any slack in the belts.
+2020tesla
HI Dwayne
You are correct. Isn't the information you are seeking there with the two parallel edges between the squares ?They travel in opposite directions and finish up travelling away from each other so that it would be easy to spot a misalignment (backlash)? Everything was drawn in alignment so that there were several opportunities to witness mismatch steps, out of squareness or non-parallelism. I did consider two circles starting 90 degrees from each other but that would have given me only one opportunity ( the start/stop point) to see mis-match
Best regards
Russ
Great video good info as always, thanks Russ
Hello, great info as always. Another use I've found from searching around is than min-max power with output direct (and "special mode" in user/Scan mode settings) is used for power variation in high dpi scan mode for grayscale images and 3d engraving in wood. But your find seems more useful, it must make a big difference for cutting/engraving sensitive thin materials.
P.S. does this machine and software have the ability to control the z-axis (up/down) in a program? Changing focus and cut depths for example in a job?
+SotirisG
Hi Sotris
I'm in the middle of adding to that video because I'm sure that what I found is not correct. I'm sure the machine software is NOT that clever (as I originally suspected) and what I saw was for a completely different reason. So lets wait for the real answer.. I'm investigating further.Yes, I'm sure you are right, that max min power is all to do with the scan mode
When you look in your control enclosure you will find TWO black driver module for the stepper motors. If you find a third then your machine is configured for a Z axis as well. This will only be possible if you have a motorized table. I have a motorized table but no drive module just an up/off/down switch.
You sound like you have done lots of engraving and know all about this grey area for me. Apart from playing with the basic tools I have had too many other things to deal with up to now. But now I am ready to explore other areas, Wood engraving and wood carving would make a great subject area. Any help/tips/experience you can furnish me with would be very helpful. I have discovered a manual on line for an early version of my machine that used a very early version of software when it was called RDcam It's written in a much more understandable way and I've just started to read about the engraving options in there. Most of it is recognizable in the current version of RDWorks.
Best regards
Russ
+SarbarMultimedia
Hi Russ. I actually don't have a laser of my own yet, this is some info I've found searching the internet and asking manufacturers about 3d engraving capability (something approaching the Kern lasers: /qndvdUzfW-U). If you read the latest Ruida manual (and have some considerable deciphering skills!), under Direct output: it writes "according to the actual graphics gray... color deep place laser energy big, color shallow place laser energy is small", and under section 3.3.2 Sweep parameters/Scan mode, it writes "The purpose to select the special mode is to make the laser to emit beams at high power and in short period (pulse?), during deep scanning, the effect of flat bottom can be achieved". According to a manufacturer these settings with several passes and a powerful enough laser can produce a deep engraving/relief effect (search for the Thunderlaser 3d engraving video). Backlash and acceleration adjustments also I understand are important for engraving quality. Check this video also about focus /uBlcLtudxPs
Best Regards
Sotiris
+SarbarMultimedia
Hi, Russ. I don't know if my reply was posted or not, here it is again without links.
Hi Russ.
I actually don't have a laser of my own yet, this is some info I've
found searching the internet and asking manufacturers about 3d engraving
capability (something approaching the Kern lasers).
If you read the latest Ruida manual (and have some considerable
deciphering skills!), under Direct output: it writes "according to the
actual graphics gray... color deep place laser energy big, color shallow
place laser energy is small", and under section 3.3.2 Sweep
parameters/Scan mode, it writes "The purpose to select the special mode
is to make the laser to emit beams at high power and in short period
(pulse?), during deep scanning, the effect of flat bottom can be
achieved". According to a manufacturer these settings with several
passes and a powerful enough laser can produce a deep engraving/relief
effect (search for the Thunderlaser 3d engraving video). Backlash and
acceleration adjustments also I understand are important for engraving
quality.
+SotirisG
Hi Sotris
I have only touched on the basics of engraving so far because I have had many other issues to sort out with my machine. Now that I have a good reliable machine I intend to start looking carefully at this very interesting subject. This whole Max/Min issue arose because I was doing a simple backlash test program as just another check for my machine. It passed with flying colours but I did notice this interesting depth of cut change in MDF at all the sharp corners. My immediate interest was in CUT mode not SCAN mode which is what you are referring to. I realise that in SCAN mode there are MANY parameters for playing with beam strength and these parameters ONLY appear in the parameter setting window when you select SCAN. In CUT mode the window is different. My question has always been, why do they give you a Max Min choice in CUT mode ? I thought that maybe I had stumbled on the reason. Several correspondents have advised me that setting two values does have an effect, but at the moment I see no evidence of obvious change when I select extreme values(see part 2). My original "discovery" turned out to have been caused by a stupid mistake I made (explained in part3).
Thanks for your input because this will be handy when I start researching, experimenting and making videos on this subject. There are undoubtedly some expert laser engravers out there who will quickly tell me where I am going wrong but there are no in depth explanations/ videos of wood engraving techniques and "how to" that I have discovered yet. I last looked about 6 months ago and it's great that you advise Thunder Laser have now done one. Thanks for that information I will go and check it out.
Best regards
Russ
Hi Russ, another great informative video. Out of interest what would the result have been if you set the min to something below 9% or even 0. Is it possible that the over burn would stop completely?
Hi Bob
I have to deduce that you do not own a laser yet? If you did you will have found out for yourself that (depending on tube type and power) the tube will not fire below certain % power. That maybe 8,9, 10 or even 12% for some tubes. So the minimum I set was as low as my tube would run (just). The max allowable drive current through the tube will be specified by the tube manufacturer and the chances are that that will be reached by the time the power is set to 65%. So, many people wrongly assume that the power is linear from 0 to 100%. That's wrong and only the range 10% to 65% is usable.
Best regards
Russ
Hi Russ, thanks for replying to question and yes you are correct in your assumption that I do not currently own a laser, but I'm looking at buying a 60w in the very near future. I apologise for my apparent senseless question but my point was for the laser not to fire at the transition of changing direction.
Regards Bob
Thankyou. Great tip for a newbie like myself
Max/Min was a complex subject which took quite a while to unravel. This was my first peep into what MAY have been happening. See this later examination to find out the final truth
th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia it’s all so new to me. Learning all I can
But did it cut on those corners with lower power?
Hi
It took some time to find out exactly how the max min power function works but a year or so later with the help of an oscilloscope, I managed to nail it
See th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ
Awesome! This helps, thank you!
Hi Mike
I never fully resolved the max min problem. Some time later I looked at it agin and finally decoded the problem.
see th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ
@@SarbarMultimedia Thanks Russ. I appreciate you sharing your experiences!
Hi, in rdworks parameters, what do "laser attenuation %"? Thanks a lot
Hi Rui
What you speak of exists in Vendor Settings. With a glass tube you must understand the max current you can allow to flow through the tube. Too much current flow will quickly shorten the life of your tube.
There are several ways to limit that current. If you have an ammeter then you can know what % power you require to reach this allowable limit. You can set that % power limit within the Vendor Settings. A more complicated way to limit that current flow is to use the % attenuation feature. You will have to guess the % attenuation and then test to see if you have achieved the max current limit, It is just another way for the Vendor to protect the tube he has installed. To be honest most vendors don't set limits or are about how you treat your tube. It is usually B grade to start with and the more you abuse your tube the better the spare tube sales.
Best wishes
Russ
that's great. I'll have to play around with those settings on my machine :)
+Krefey Hi
Wait on I'm in the middle of a rework of the Max MIn. What I saw and for a reason I believed ....I think it's wrong I was stuck in a traffic jam tonight and was thinking it through....NO the machine cannot be that clever!! and I'm sure its not .....I'll be back!!
Russ
+Krefey
Hi Michael
For some reason your bulls eye question did not appear in my comments, so I hope you get an answer via this.
It's sort of covered in my illuminated house sign video where if you chose scan mode it's the first closed object from the outside that gets scanned and then every other closed object going to the centre . For example if you draw 2 concentric circles and fill the cental area woth other random circles (some overlapping) you will see this effect clearly.
I am just starting on an in depth study of engraving and one thing you can do with your bulls eye is to define pairs of circles as different scan layers and set different speeds and powers to each. That way you will engrave different depth circles Check out with preview before you cut and you will be surpised what happens.
Experimentation is the only way to learn because there are very few people out there willing to tell you their secrets.
Thanks for your input
Best regards
Russ.
Was less of a question and more of a "have you covered this yet". I wasn't sure as it has been a while since I've watched some of your videos :)
nice one!
Hi I did a further visit to this subject which came to a real conclusion
see th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ
Thanks
With time and better understanding of laser technology, I revisited this subject in th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html.
Best wishes ...... Russ
how does it affect cut through?
as in, if you need 40% to cut through(just cuts through and no more), and you set min at (example) 10%, does it still cut through?
I think this will be a 'suck it and see' setting but I will find it handy for the MDF I cut already
+Michael Edmond
Hi Michael
This is obviously fine for engraving or controlling DRAWN lines with a cut parameter. For through cutting it still requires max and min set the same. It seems as though the MIN power is the over-riding parameter UNTIL it matches MAX POWER
So it's useful for those that are doing a lot of engraving as I suspect dot size/density will create power variations if you let the machine "loose" I'm sure there's some experts out there that either take this for granted or are not telling. Certainly worth experimenting with more for graphics work
Regards
Russ
+SarbarMultimedia Russ, can you try a circular or this square cut on your thick acrylic display pieces? I saw a bad drag well captured in a clear acrylic like yours... i always used min/max same values before, maybe time to change :)
@@SarbarMultimedia, hi. I actually need image to be engraved (cutting parameters) NOT scanned.
Do you have any info what is recommended maximum cut speed?
@@projex5894
Hi
So you want to do outline (vector) drawing with a fast cut?
First of all draw a 25mm square and find the best power speed parameters for the middle of the square sides (set max and min the same). The corners will always be dark.
When you are happy with the result set the min power to about 5% and repeat the test. It is almost certain that the corners of the square will not join. Increase the power in 1% steps until the corners JUST join.
That's it
If you change the power or speed you will have to carry out this test again. It is VERY sensitive....you cannot take a wild guess.
Best wishes
Russ
Problem 2. You are asking about max speed for drawing there is value anyone can tell you. It depends on MANY factors, the focal length of your lens, the power of your tube , the material you are trying to mark but most importantly there is the Ferrari effect that you have to understand. I have seen you out driving you VERY fast Ferrari so you will knowthat it probably takes at least half a mile for you to reach 200mph???? and with those amazing optional carbon brakes you can stop in 200 yards. Hmmm. Ok.Lets change the rules.
Around your small housing block there is a road that is 100yds square. What speed can you reach before you have to slam on the brakes to get round each corner? 60mp[h?
This exact same scenario existe with our machine. You can set the speed to whatever you like (200mm/s) but unless the distance is long enough for the machine to accelerate to 200mm/s then you are wasting you time. If your job comprises lots of small circles , triangles or other fiddly shapes setting your power high to run at 200mm/swill result in overburning bacause the speed may only be 20mm/s..
I hope this begins to explain why the answer to your question is a matter of experience, and judgment
Best wishes
Russ
this one doesnt say the most important thing how to set it on controller , so crazy
Hi Samantha
I make it very clear that I am not teaching, I am a student myself on a journey of discovery about this technology and this machine. This was a subject I kept revisiting and it was not until I was able to look at the control signals with an oscilloscope that I understood what actually happens within thecontroller.
See th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ
i just learned stuff
now watch this
th-cam.com/video/wJX8X40T4VM/w-d-xo.html
Best wishes
Russ